• Specialty Retail
  • Consumer Cyclical
Bath & Body Works, Inc. logo
Bath & Body Works, Inc.
BBWI · US · NYSE
35.3
USD
-1.45
(4.11%)
Executives
Name Title Pay
Ms. Gina R. Boswell Chief Executive Officer & Director 4.36M
Mr. Tom Mazurek Chief Supply Chain Officer --
Dr. Deon N. Riley Chief Human Resources Officer 1.92M
Ms. Julie B. Rosen President of Retail 3.06M
Ms. Eva C. Boratto Chief Financial Officer 1.9M
Mr. Michael C. Wu Chief Legal Officer & Corporate Secretary 1.73M
Mr. Thilina Gunasinghe Chief Digital & Technology Officer --
Mr. Brian K. Leinbach Executive Vice President & Chief Information Officer --
Ms. Kelie Charles Vice President & Chief Diversity Officer --
Bruce Mosier Executive Vice President of Logistics --
Insider Transactions
Date Name Title Acquisition Or Disposition Stock / Options # of Shares Price
2024-06-27 Voskuil Steven E director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 Symancyk James Kevin director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 Rajlin Juan director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6406 0
2024-06-27 Lee Danielle M. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 Hondal Francis director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 Brady Lucy director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-27 Bogliolo Alessandro director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3844 0
2024-06-18 Nash Sarah E director D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 48000 41.5025
2024-05-23 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12097 0
2024-05-23 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4913 48.31
2024-05-23 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 15253 0
2024-05-23 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6322 48.31
2024-05-23 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 9000 0
2024-05-23 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4082 48.31
2024-05-23 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 16830 0
2024-05-23 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 7633 48.31
2024-05-23 Rosen Julie President, Retail A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 10587 0
2024-05-23 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4802 48.31
2024-05-23 Rosen Julie President, Retail A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 28051 0
2024-05-23 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12722 48.31
2024-05-19 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3675 50.16
2024-05-19 Boswell Gina Chief Executive Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 13778 50.16
2024-05-19 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2091 50.16
2024-05-19 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2505 50.16
2024-05-19 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2940 50.16
2024-05-19 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2050 50.16
2024-03-27 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2285 43.7529
2024-03-27 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4285 48.8949
2024-03-27 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 2285 43.7529
2024-03-13 Boratto Eva C Chief Financial Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 30109 0
2024-03-16 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1399 45.63
2024-03-16 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 855 45.63
2024-03-16 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 737 45.63
2024-03-13 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 16828 0
2024-03-13 Rosen Julie President, Retail A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 23210 0
2024-03-13 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 18568 0
2024-03-13 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 16248 0
2024-03-13 Boratto Eva C Chief Financial Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 29560 0
2024-03-13 Boswell Gina Chief Executive Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 69630 0
2024-03-09 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1431 44.76
2024-03-09 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1071 44.76
2024-03-09 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1253 44.76
2024-03-09 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 599 44.76
2024-03-10 Nash Sarah E director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 123544 0
2024-03-10 Nash Sarah E director D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 25300 44.76
2024-03-10 Nash Sarah E director D - M-Exempt Stock Unit 123544 0
2024-03-01 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 24722 0
2024-03-01 Rosen Julie President, Retail A - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 24722 0
2024-03-01 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12361 45.8277
2023-12-01 Boswell Gina Chief Executive Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12577 33.89
2023-09-28 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 15149 33.21
2023-08-18 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 344 36.52
2023-08-18 Rosen Julie President, Retail D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 916 36.52
2023-08-18 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 916 36.52
2023-08-20 Nash Sarah E director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3770 0
2023-08-20 Nash Sarah E director D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 607 36.52
2023-08-20 Nash Sarah E director D - M-Exempt Stock Unit 3770 0
2023-08-01 Boratto Eva C Chief Financial Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 54496 0
2023-08-01 Boratto Eva C Chief Financial Officer D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2023-06-08 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5953 0
2023-06-08 Voskuil Steven E director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Rajlin Juan director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Symancyk James Kevin director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Lee Danielle M. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Bogliolo Alessandro director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 KUHN THOMAS director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Hondal Francis director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Brady Lucy director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-06-08 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3572 0
2023-05-19 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 19579 0
2023-05-19 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1878 37.03
2023-05-19 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 21604 0
2023-05-19 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 18904 0
2023-05-19 Rosen Julie President, Retail A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 27005 0
2023-05-19 Boswell Gina Chief Executive Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 101269 0
2023-05-19 Arlin Wendy C. Chief Financial Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1878 37.03
2023-03-28 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1625 33.7978
2023-03-28 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1625 38.2906
2023-03-28 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 1625 33.7978
2023-03-16 Rosen Julie President D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1399 35.25
2023-03-16 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1184 35.25
2023-03-16 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1107 35.25
2023-03-16 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3497 35.25
2023-03-10 KUHN THOMAS director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 697 0
2023-03-10 Nash Sarah E director D - M-Exempt Stock Unit 123544 0
2023-03-10 Nash Sarah E director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 123544 0
2023-03-10 Nash Sarah E director D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 56915 37.28
2023-03-09 Brady Lucy director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 955 0
2023-03-09 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1051 38
2023-03-09 Rosen Julie President D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2140 38
2023-03-09 Voskuil Steven E director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 868 0
2023-03-09 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1847 38
2023-03-09 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 847 38
2023-03-09 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1712 38
2023-03-10 KUHN THOMAS director D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2023-02-21 Voskuil Steven E - 0 0
2023-02-12 Brady Lucy - 0 0
2022-12-29 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5581 41.65
2022-12-01 Boswell Gina Chief Executive Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 92443 0
2022-12-01 Boswell Gina None None - None None None
2022-12-01 Boswell Gina Chief Executive Officer - 0 0
2022-11-18 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4905 0
2022-08-20 Nash Sarah E Executive Chair & Interim CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2829 0
2022-08-20 Nash Sarah E Executive Chair & Interim CEO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 256 38.66
2022-08-20 Nash Sarah E Executive Chair & Interim CEO D - M-Exempt Stock Unit 2829 0
2022-08-18 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 341 40.26
2022-08-18 Rosen Julie President D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 916 40.26
2022-08-18 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 916 40.26
2022-08-18 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 906 40.26
2022-05-27 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 16338 42.2521
2022-05-20 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2017-03-31 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 2287 43.7529
2022-05-20 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 4934 48.6401
2019-03-31 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 4233 70.866
2018-04-02 Mazurek Thomas E. Chief Supply Chain Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 2547 73.5754
2022-05-19 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer &Corp Secy D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1246 40.03
2022-05-19 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1858 40.03
2022-05-12 Hondal Francis A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 Symancyk James Kevin A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 STEINOUR STEPHEN D A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 Rajlin Juan A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 MORRIS MICHAEL G A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 Lee Danielle M. A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 Bellinger Patricia S. A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-12 Bogliolo Alessandro A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3091 0
2022-05-11 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 53219 0
2022-05-11 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 23869 47.77
2022-04-25 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 7230 54.1
2022-04-19 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6000 55
2022-03-31 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6175 47.8
2022-03-31 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5973 47.8
2022-03-31 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3787 47.8
2022-03-28 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 33938 49.87
2022-03-28 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 17664 49.87
2022-03-28 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5835 49.87
2022-03-28 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 14920 49.87
2022-03-28 Rajlin Juan A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 372 0
2022-03-28 Bogliolo Alessandro A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 372 0
2022-03-28 Rajlin Juan - 0 0
2022-03-28 Bogliolo Alessandro - 0 0
2022-03-21 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2036 49.31
2022-03-09 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer & Secy. A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 11533 0
2022-03-09 Rosen Julie President A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 15727 0
2022-03-09 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 13630 0
2022-03-09 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12581 0
2022-03-09 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12581 0
2022-03-10 Nash Sarah E Executive Chair A - A-Award Stock Unit 374376 0
2022-01-29 STEINOUR STEPHEN D - 0 0
2021-08-20 Nash Sarah E director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2829 0
2021-08-20 Nash Sarah E director D - M-Exempt Stock Unit 2829 0
2021-12-29 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5298 69.5
2021-11-18 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - W-Will Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2875 0
2021-11-24 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5375 74.518
2021-03-03 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2500 0
2021-08-20 Nash Sarah E director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2283 0
2021-09-22 Nash Sarah E director D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 14400 66.2588
2021-08-20 Nash Sarah E director D - M-Exempt Stock Unit 2283 0
2021-09-08 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 19913 64.9
2021-08-18 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer & Secy. A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2524 0
2021-08-18 Rosen Julie President A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6729 0
2021-08-18 Riley Deon Chief Human Resources Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6729 0
2021-08-18 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6729 0
2021-08-02 Wu Michael C. Chief Legal Officer & Secy. D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2021-08-02 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2019-03-31 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 2055 43.7529
2021-08-02 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 10793 48.6401
2021-03-31 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 2645 70.866
2020-04-02 Cramer Christopher T. Chief Operating Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 4076 73.5754
2021-08-02 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2019-03-31 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 2855 43.7529
2021-03-21 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 13964 31.8134
2018-03-29 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 1625 33.7978
2022-03-31 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 6906 38.0115
2014-05-07 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 855 41.1479
2021-03-31 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 5292 70.866
2019-05-07 Arlin Wendy C. EVP and CFO D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 3057 73.5754
2021-06-28 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner A - G-Gift Common Stock 10814206 0
2021-07-19 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - S-Sale Common Stock 13001096 73.01
2021-07-19 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - S-Sale Common Stock 10000000 73.01
2021-06-28 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - G-Gift Common Stock 10814206 0
2021-07-19 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - S-Sale Common Stock 5958809 73.01
2021-07-08 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3409 71.38
2021-07-08 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 8723 0
2021-07-08 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 7850 71.38
2021-07-08 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - M-Exempt Deferred Share Unit 8723 0
2021-07-08 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 33149 0
2021-07-08 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 33149 0
2021-07-08 Sheehan Anne director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 23733 0
2021-07-08 Sheehan Anne director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 23733 0
2021-07-08 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 24402 0
2021-07-08 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 24402 0
2021-07-08 Nash Sarah E director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 26799 0
2021-07-08 Nash Sarah E director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 26799 0
2021-07-08 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 60374 0
2021-07-08 MORRIS MICHAEL G director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 60374 0
2021-07-08 JAMES DONNA director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 57115 0
2021-07-08 JAMES DONNA director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 57115 0
2021-07-08 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 24306 0
2021-07-08 Bellinger Patricia S. director D - M-Exempt Phantom Stock 24306 0
2021-06-24 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5000 0
2021-06-01 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - G-Gift Common Stock 3500000 0
2021-06-03 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - S-Sale Common Stock 1500000 65.3
2021-06-01 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner A - G-Gift Common Stock 3500000 0
2021-06-03 Wexner Leslie H. 10 percent owner D - S-Sale Common Stock 3500000 65.3
2021-05-27 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 9260 54.2142
2021-05-27 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 11638 41.8789
2021-05-27 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 36458 69.21
2021-05-27 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 11638 0
2021-05-27 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 9260 54.2142
2021-05-27 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 11638 41.8789
2021-05-20 Symancyk James Kevin director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1731 0
2021-05-20 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2078 0
2021-05-20 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2272 0
2021-05-20 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2078 0
2021-05-20 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5412 0
2021-05-20 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2272 0
2021-05-20 Lee Danielle M. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1731 0
2021-05-20 JAMES DONNA director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2078 0
2021-05-20 Hondal Francis director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1731 0
2021-05-20 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2078 0
2021-05-20 Symancyk James Kevin - 0 0
2021-05-19 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 34378 0
2021-05-19 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 15593 67.31
2021-05-19 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 8179 0
2021-05-19 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 5175 0
2021-05-19 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 23646 0
2021-05-19 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 3189 0
2021-05-19 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 19627 0
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 9554 47.1
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 37834 61.85
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 42585 54.21
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 124191 49.38
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 55129 41.88
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 161559 45.03
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 161559 45.03
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 42585 54.21
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 37834 61.85
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 9554 47.1
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 55129 41.88
2021-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 124191 49.38
2021-04-25 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4425 67.38
2021-03-31 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 8526 61.86
2021-03-31 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 7162 61.86
2021-03-22 Wexner Leslie H. D - G-Gift Common Stock 2000000 0
2021-03-22 Wexner Leslie H. D - S-Sale Common Stock 1000000 58.31
2021-03-22 Wexner Leslie H. A - G-Gift Common Stock 2000000 0
2021-03-22 Wexner Leslie H. D - S-Sale Common Stock 50000 58.31
2021-03-22 Wexner Leslie H. D - S-Sale Common Stock 2000000 58.31
2021-03-21 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 15550 60.54
2021-03-21 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1329 60.54
2021-03-16 Lee Danielle M. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 332 0
2021-03-16 Hondal Francis director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 332 0
2021-03-16 Rosen Julie President-Bath & Body Works A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4978 0
2021-03-16 Rosen Julie President-Bath & Body Works A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 9955 60.27
2021-03-16 Riley Deon CHRO-LB and Bath & Body Works A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4231 0
2021-03-16 Riley Deon CHRO-LB and Bath & Body Works A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 8462 60.27
2021-03-16 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 34843 0
2021-03-16 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 69686 60.27
2021-03-16 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4978 0
2021-03-16 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 9955 60.27
2021-03-16 Lee Danielle M. - 0 0
2021-03-16 Hondal Francis - 0 0
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3519 39.42
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5732 47.1
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12773 26.4271
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12884 27.94
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 17329 41.5439
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 23611 41.8789
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 75848 54.56
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 12884 27.94
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 3519 39.42
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 5732 47.1
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 17329 41.5439
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 12773 26.4271
2021-02-26 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 23611 41.8789
2021-02-26 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3666 54.5261
2021-02-26 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 11279 41.5439
2021-02-26 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 11279 55.65
2021-02-26 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 11279 41.5439
2021-01-15 Rosen Julie President-Bath & Body Works D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2021-01-15 Riley Deon CHRO-LB and Bath & Body Works D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2020-11-20 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 18900 39.65
2020-11-20 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 600 0
2020-11-15 Wexner Leslie H. A - M-Exempt Common Stock 1260 0
2020-10-07 Wexner Leslie H. D - G-Gift Common Stock 352941 0
2020-10-07 Wexner Leslie H. D - G-Gift Common Stock 352941 0
2020-10-02 Wexner Leslie H. D - G-Gift Common Stock 1372664 0
2020-10-07 Wexner Leslie H. A - G-Gift Common Stock 352941 0
2020-10-07 Wexner Leslie H. A - G-Gift Common Stock 343166 0
2020-11-15 Wexner Leslie H. D - M-Exempt Restricted Share Units 1260 0
2020-09-01 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 28373 26.4271
2020-09-01 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 28373 30.0013
2020-09-01 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 28373 26.4271
2020-08-25 Wexner Leslie H. D - G-Gift Common Stock 2000000 0
2020-08-25 Wexner Leslie H. D - S-Sale Common Stock 1000000 29.7
2020-08-25 Wexner Leslie H. A - G-Gift Common Stock 2000000 0
2020-08-25 Wexner Leslie H. D - S-Sale Common Stock 2000000 29.7
2020-08-24 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1052 0
2020-05-14 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 14018 0
2020-05-14 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 21413 0
2020-08-20 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Stock Unit 7609 0
2020-06-23 Sheehan Anne director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 685 14.64
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer I - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer I - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 15261 39.42
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 34225 27.94
2018-03-29 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 6707 41.8789
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 12341 47.1
2019-03-31 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 7117 54.2142
2020-05-14 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 8541 87.81
2020-04-02 Meslow Andrew Chief Executive Officer D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 5757 91.1673
2020-05-14 ZIMMERMAN RAYMOND director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3629 0
2020-05-14 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4574 0
2020-05-14 GEE GORDON director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 3629 0
2020-05-14 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 12825 0
2020-05-14 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 12825 0
2020-05-14 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 12825 0
2020-05-14 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 20220 0
2020-05-14 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 14018 0
2020-05-14 JAMES DONNA director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 12825 0
2020-05-14 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 12825 0
2020-05-14 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 10678 0
2020-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 4777 0
2020-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 18917 0
2020-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 8200 0
2020-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 39252 0
2020-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 7899 0
2020-05-13 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 37363 0
2020-05-14 Wexner Leslie H. A - A-Award Common Stock 10678 0
2020-05-13 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 39247 0
2020-05-13 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 16001 10.6
2020-05-13 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 27606 0
2020-05-13 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 8381 10.6
2020-04-25 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2962 10.31
2020-04-02 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1225 10.15
2020-03-31 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1493 11.56
2020-03-31 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3706 11.56
2020-03-21 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 838 9.78
2020-03-21 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 890 9.78
2019-11-22 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1150 0
2020-02-03 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1247 0
2020-02-03 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1358 0
2020-02-03 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1553 0
2020-01-29 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Stock option (right to buy) 30233 23.22
2020-01-29 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Restricted Share Unit 15116 0
2019-08-29 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1500 0
2019-11-04 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1597 0
2019-11-04 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1739 0
2019-11-04 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1989 0
2019-05-16 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 5007 0
2019-05-16 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2019-06-21 Bersani James L. President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 300 0
2019-08-05 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1176 0
2019-08-05 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1113 0
2019-08-05 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1445 0
2019-03-28 ZIMMERMAN RAYMOND director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4811 0
2019-05-16 Sheehan Anne director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5007 0
2019-05-16 Nash Sarah E director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 5007 0
2019-05-16 Sheehan Anne - 0 0
2019-05-16 Nash Sarah E - 0 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 4777 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 18917 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 5466 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 26168 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 7898 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 37362 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 12777 0
2019-05-15 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 37257 0
2019-05-15 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 48711 0
2019-05-15 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 35872 0
2019-05-15 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 15810 22.46
2019-05-06 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1091 0
2019-05-06 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1213 0
2019-04-02 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1829 27.02
2019-03-28 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 4721 0
2019-03-28 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6063 0
2019-03-28 KOLLAT DAVID T director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5616 0
2019-03-28 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 4006 0
2019-03-28 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 4453 0
2019-03-28 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 4453 0
2019-03-28 JAMES DONNA director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 5169 0
2019-03-28 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 4363 0
2019-03-28 GEE GORDON director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 4811 0
2019-03-28 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 4363 0
2019-03-28 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 19327 0
2019-03-28 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 38654 27.94
2019-03-28 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 27917 0
2019-03-28 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 55834 27.94
2019-03-28 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 19327 0
2019-03-28 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 38654 27.94
2019-03-28 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 17180 0
2019-03-28 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 34359 27.94
2019-03-31 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6273 27.58
2019-03-31 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 7893 27.58
2019-02-04 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1035 0
2019-02-04 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 1150 0
2018-12-28 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - G-Gift Common Stock 960000 0
2019-01-30 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Stock option (right to buy) 40894 27.51
2018-07-06 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 5000 36.28
2018-11-21 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 600 0
2018-06-18 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 276 0
2018-11-21 ZIMMERMAN RAYMOND director D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6385 28.3285
2018-11-05 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 817 0
2018-11-05 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 908 0
2018-08-31 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - J-Other Common Stock, $0.50 par value 36133 0
2018-08-06 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 868 0
2018-08-06 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 965 0
2018-05-25 JAMES DONNA director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1000 35.292
2018-05-25 JAMES DONNA director D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1000 35.292
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Deferred Share Unit 4316 0
2015-03-31 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 28373 26.4271
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 14650 39.42
2016-03-30 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 11279 41.5439
2017-03-29 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 11638 41.8789
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 11943 47.1
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 9260 54.2142
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 8541 87.81
2018-05-17 Bersani James L. EVP & President - Real Estate D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 5757 91.1673
2018-05-17 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2018-05-17 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 3839 34.19
2018-05-17 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 13794 39.42
2018-05-17 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 5381 87.81
2018-05-17 Milano Shelley B EVP&Chief Human Resources Off D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 10533 47.1
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 5466 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 26168 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 5265 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 24909 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 12777 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 37259 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 48467 0
2018-05-16 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 16540 0
2018-05-16 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 30230 0
2018-05-16 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 13942 34.19
2018-05-16 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International A - A-Award Deferred Share Unit 1608 0
2018-05-16 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 55812 0
2018-05-16 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 69808 0
2018-05-16 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 31874 34.19
2018-05-16 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 33065 0
2018-05-16 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 13438 34.19
2018-05-07 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 822 0
2018-05-07 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 913 0
2017-12-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - G-Gift Common Stock 680000 0
2018-03-21 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 3347 39.42
2017-08-22 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 3046 0
2017-08-22 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 3046 0
2017-08-22 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2018-03-21 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2839 0
2018-03-21 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2839 0
2018-03-21 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 3156 0
2018-03-21 GEE GORDON director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 3410 0
2018-03-21 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2839 0
2018-03-21 ZIMMERMAN RAYMOND director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3410 0
2018-03-21 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4298 0
2018-03-21 KOLLAT DAVID T director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3981 0
2018-03-21 JAMES DONNA director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3664 0
2018-03-21 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3093 0
2017-08-22 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director I - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2017-08-22 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director I - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2018-03-21 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 17599 39.42
2018-03-21 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 25400 39.42
2018-03-21 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 21499 39.42
2018-03-21 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 17000 39.56
2018-03-21 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 17599 39.42
2018-03-13 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 33000 42.526
2018-03-09 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 187 42.26
2018-02-05 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 662 0
2018-02-05 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 595 0
2017-11-20 KOLLAT DAVID T director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 9910 50.34
2017-10-30 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 653 0
2017-10-30 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 726 0
2017-10-13 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - J-Other Common Stock 509041 41.84
2017-08-18 KOLLAT DAVID T director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 26500 37.56
2017-09-21 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 10000 36.9994
2017-09-21 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 10000 36.9994
2017-08-29 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 209 36.52
2017-08-22 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3046 0
2017-08-22 Bellinger Patricia S. director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3046 0
2017-08-22 SCHOTTENSTEIN ROBERT H director D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2017-08-22 Bellinger Patricia S. - 0 0
2017-07-31 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 603 0
2017-07-31 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 670 0
2017-07-31 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 724 0
2017-05-17 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 43943 0
2017-05-17 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 20725 48.4
2017-05-17 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International A - A-Award Deferred Share Unit 1073 0
2017-05-17 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 77451 0
2017-05-17 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 35928 48.4
2017-05-17 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 47549 0
2017-05-17 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 21064 48.4
2017-05-17 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 75658 0
2017-05-17 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 35819 48.4
2017-05-19 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 39839 48.88
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 5263 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 24905 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 8517 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 24839 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 16538 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 48469 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 16672 0
2017-05-17 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 60612 0
2017-05-01 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 539 0
2017-05-01 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 599 0
2017-05-01 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 647 0
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 55572 41.5439
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 202039 35.7103
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 87361 26.4271
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 305224 23.6382
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 127639 18.088
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 384567 6.1448
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 238951 12.0776
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 305224 23.6382
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 238951 12.0776
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 384567 6.1448
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 127639 18.088
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 87631 26.4271
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 202039 35.7103
2017-04-06 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 55572 41.5439
2017-03-31 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3597 0
2017-03-31 ZIMMERMAN RAYMOND director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2854 0
2017-03-31 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2376 0
2017-03-31 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2642 0
2017-03-31 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2854 0
2017-03-31 KOLLAT DAVID T director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3332 0
2017-03-31 JAMES DONNA director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3066 0
2017-03-31 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2589 0
2017-03-31 GEE GORDON director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 2854 0
2017-03-31 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 14331 47.1
2017-03-31 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 20701 47.1
2017-03-31 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 17516 47.1
2017-03-31 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 14331 47.1
2017-03-30 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - M-Exempt Common Stock 150783 18.406
2017-03-31 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 2801 47.1
2017-03-31 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Stock option (right to buy) 23885 47.1
2017-03-30 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO D - M-Exempt Stock option (right to buy) 150783 18.406
2016-09-06 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 340 0
2017-03-10 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 159 50.3
2015-04-08 TESSLER ALLAN R director D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 2100 0
2017-02-24 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 6626 41.8789
2017-02-24 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4467 41.5439
2017-02-24 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - M-Exempt Common Stock, $0.50 par value 6626 41.8789
2017-02-24 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - M-Exempt Stock Option - Right to Buy 4467 41.5439
2017-02-24 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 11093 51.07
2016-05-26 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 441 0
2016-11-18 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 476 0
2017-01-30 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 476 0
2017-01-30 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 530 0
2017-01-30 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 572 0
2017-01-30 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 519 0
2017-01-25 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Stock option (right to buy) 94584 61.85
2016-12-30 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - J-Other Common Stock 1129688 65.925
2016-09-13 TESSLER ALLAN R director D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1690 0
2016-10-31 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 387 0
2016-10-31 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 431 0
2016-10-31 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 465 0
2016-10-31 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 422 0
2016-10-21 Hersch Dennis S director D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1000 0
2016-08-30 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 23687 76.37
2016-08-31 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 299 76.46
2016-08-19 TESSLER ALLAN R director D - G-Gift Common Stock, $0.50 par value 1283 0
2016-08-23 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 45500 77.49
2016-08-01 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 376 0
2016-08-01 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 418 0
2016-08-01 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 452 0
2016-08-01 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 410 0
2016-07-11 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4951 67.53
2016-07-04 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 4382 67.53
2016-06-24 TESSLER ALLAN R director A - P-Purchase Common Stock, $0.50 par value 3500 67.9161
2016-05-25 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - S-Sale Common Stock, $0.50 par value 28444 64.5878
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Common Stock, $0.50 par value 0 0
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Deferred Share Unit 16970 0
2015-03-31 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 6149 26.4271
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 27074 41.5439
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 27757 41.8789
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 21440 54.2142
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 8541 87.81
2016-05-19 Waters Martin P Pres, L Brands International D - Stock Option - Right to Buy 13985 91.1673
2016-05-18 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 59674 0
2016-05-18 McGuigan Charles Chief Operating Officer D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 28616 63.78
2016-05-18 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 38050 0
2016-05-18 Burgdoerfer Stuart B EVP & CFO D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 18247 63.78
2016-05-18 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works A - A-Award Common Stock, $0.50 par value 53621 0
2016-05-18 Coe Nicholas CEO-Bath and Body Works D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 25177 63.78
2016-05-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 8514 0
2016-05-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 24836 0
2016-05-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 11026 0
2016-05-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 32313 0
2016-05-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 16673 0
2016-05-18 Wexner Leslie H. Chairman and CEO A - A-Award Common Stock 60613 0
2016-05-02 STEINOUR STEPHEN D director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 352 0
2016-05-02 MORRIS MICHAEL G director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 391 0
2016-05-02 MIRO JEFFREY H director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 423 0
2016-05-02 Hersch Dennis S director A - A-Award Phantom Stock 383 0
2016-03-31 McGuigan Charles Pres Global Sourcing&Logistics D - F-InKind Common Stock, $0.50 par value 11023 87.81
2016-03-31 McGuigan Charles Pres Global Sourcing&Logistics A - A-Award Stock Option - Right to Buy 11104 87.81
Transcripts
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Donna, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works First Quarter 2024 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Mike McGuire, Interim Head of Investor Relations. Mike, you may begin.
Mike McGuire:
Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works' first quarter 2024 earnings conference call. Joining me on the call today are Gina Boswell, Chief Executive Officer; Julie Rosen, President, Retail; and Eva Boratto, Chief Financial Officer. In addition to this call and this morning's press release, we have posted a slide presentation on our website that summarizes the information in these prepared remarks in addition to providing some related facts and figures regarding our operating performance and guidance. Today's call may contain certain forward-looking statements related to future events and expectations. For factors that could cause the actual results to differ materially from these forward-looking statements, please refer to this morning's press release as well as the risk factors in Bath & Body Works' 2023 Form 10-K and our quarterly report on Form 10-Q, which will be filed at the end of today. Today's call contains certain non-GAAP financial measures. Please refer to this morning's press release and supplemental materials for important disclosures regarding such measures, including reconciliations to the most comparable GAAP financial measure. As you know, fiscal 2023 was a 53 week year. To provide the best sense of the health of the business, all category sales results, market share data, loyalty metrics and selling metrics discussed during the call are on a comparable calendar basis, which is 13 weeks ended May 4, 2024 versus the 13 weeks ended May 6, 2023. All other results discussed are on a reported basis, which is the 13 weeks ended May 4, 2024 versus the 13 weeks ended April 29, 2023. With that, I'll now turn the call over to Gina.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Mike, and good morning, everyone. We appreciate you all joining us. Today, we are pleased to report better than expected Q1 sales and earnings performance. Through strong execution, we continued our progress against our strategic priorities, managing our profitability and at the same time, building toward our anticipated return to sales growth in the second half. Before I get into the details, let me first say that our Q1 outperformance would not be possible without the tireless dedication of our exceptional team who consistently delivers tremendous service to our customers while remaining nimble in a dynamic environment to deliver our goals. Jumping into results. We were pleased to deliver net sales of $1.4 billion in the first quarter, down 0.9% from the prior year, which was above the high end of our guidance. First quarter earnings per diluted share of $0.38 was up 15% from the prior year's adjusted EPS, which was above our guidance. With our better-than-expected results in the first quarter, we've narrowed our full year guidance ranges for both the top- and bottom-lines, raising the midpoint while maintaining the high end for each. Keeping in mind that it's still early in the year and we remain in a dynamic consumer spending environment, we are taking a prudent approach to our guidance. Eva will share more details later. Now shifting back to the quarter, let me provide some color on what drove our Q1 performance. Of course, it starts with the customer and their favorable response to the level of newness and innovation we brought to them with compelling product introductions and new marketing activities that build the brand. We continue to grow our newer adjacencies such as men's, hair, lip and laundry, and we are excited to see all of these contributing more to the business. We're continuing to roll out our lip fixtures to nearly all North American stores and we're accelerating laundry to all U.S. stores in late fall. As part of our efforts to drive our core growth, we introduced a new brand collaboration with Netflix, starting with their hit series, Bridgerton. We also launched a new Everyday Luxuries collection, which generated some viral buzz that Julie will touch on a bit later. Together, we were delighted with the abundance of brand love demonstrated by customers for these products. The Home Fragrance category performed in line with our expectations with the year-over-year decline in candles consistent with the prior quarter's performance, as macro level normalization continued. Overall transactions were up for the quarter driven by conversion with dual channel traffic flat. Consistent with external market data, we are continuing to see customers carefully manage their spending, which has pressured basket size. Average unit retails declined 1% versus our expectation of flat. At the beginning of the quarter, we leveraged promotion to help drive traffic in light of a floor set that wasn't resonating with our customers. As the quarter progressed and demand grew, we eased off promotions, which allowed us to achieve flat AURs in the back half of the quarter. From a market share perspective, we maintained our strong unit share overall. Our international business was pressured given the war in the Middle East and related softness. Despite this near term pressure, international markets remain an attractive pillar of our overall strategy, and we are committed to growing outside North America. During the quarter, our partners opened stores in new markets, including our first standalone store in London. And just last week, together with our franchise partner, we opened our first store in South Korea. Our plan is to add at least 35 net new stores in international markets this year. As you know, over the past year, our team's efforts have been centered on elevating the Bath & Body Works brand and product, extending our reach, engaging with our customers, enabling a seamless omnichannel experience and enhancing operational excellence and efficiency. Building upon the strong foundation that Bath & Body Works had already established, our efforts are driving positive progress along our path to $10 billion in sales and operating margins of 20%. Last quarter, I highlighted several marketing and technology initiatives in which we're making important investments to fuel our growth. This quarter, I would like to focus on a key indicator of the success of this work, which we call customership. Customership essentially refers to the demand we generate among current and potential customers to drive sustained growth in the business. Simply put, our goal is to bring more customers to the brand more often and with more love for our amazing fragrance assortment and omnichannel experience. With the introduction of our full funnel marketing approach beginning in Q4 of last year, we have seen improving trends supported by greater top-of-mind brand awareness and engagement among existing, new and reactivated customers alike. Early results from our more fulsome approach have been promising. The trend on net customer count in the first quarter improved 10 percentage points when compared to the first quarter of 2023, fueled by better retention of existing customers and a trend improvement in attracting new customers to the brand. We saw our most promising performance within our most valued customer segment, which we call fragrance fashionistas. These customers consider fragrance to be an essential part of their identity and self-expression, and they're extremely invested in innovation, evidenced by their response to our newness in the quarter. We were also encouraged to see our new efforts lead customers to shop with us more often, with approximately 40% of customers visiting us nearly 7 times on average per year. And we're seeing brand love continue to build. Brand impressions generated in the quarter were up 43% versus the prior year and we saw key brand equities, such as likelihood to recommend Bath & Body Works, on the rise. Hand in hand with our marketing efforts in driving customership is our focus on loyalty. As of the end of first quarter, we had increased our active loyalty members by more than 18% year-over-year to approximately 37 million and they drove about 80% of our U.S. sales. The program also boasted an outstanding 93% satisfaction rating within its membership. While the scale and satisfaction of our loyalty program are strong, of equal importance is the stickiness the program brings to the business. In Q1, our overall customer retention rate was the best posted since 2021, which was a high watermark for the brand. As we look to a future built on strong customership, we see additional potential to drive even more enrollment in our loyalty program, particularly among new customers, who made up 43% of enrollees in the first quarter. In order to drive a new level of engagement in the program in 2024, we will offer more loyalty exclusive and early access events along with point accelerators. We introduced these in Q4 to foster reward redemption as that is a critical factor in incenting customer purchase behavior. As customership grows, it will enhance our potential to both drive short--term performance as well as sustain customer lifetime value. Turning briefly to our technology initiatives, our tech roadmap is on track, and we've made progress toward our goals. As you know, in standing up Bath & Body Works as an independent company, there has been and continues to be significant work required to bring the company's technology systems to where we need them to be for a leading omnichannel retail business of our size. We remain focused on investing in the foundational tools and systems need to support future growth, and have been engaging with world-class partners to do so. We continue to evolve the digital experience for our customers, and we look forward to sharing big wins from these efforts later in the year. With that, I'll turn the call over to Julie to provide the merchandising overview.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Gina. I too want to thank our teams for their exceptional work and for continuing to deliver a special experience to our customers. We are pleased with our first quarter performance as a result of their efforts and we're well positioned for a strong summer. As Gina touched on briefly, newness drove our success in the first quarter. In March, we announced a year-long partnership with Netflix to bring storytelling to life through the power of fragrance. Through the partnership, we aim to transform the viewing experience for millions of Netflix fans by allowing the power of fragrance to help transport them into their favorite stories and scenes. And we started with Bridgerton, one of the most popular programs on Netflix. The response was terrific. The collection resonated with our core customer, and over the launch period, Bridgerton products represented 4% of the shop. This response exceeded our expectations and our agile model allowed us to chase into strong selling fragrances and forms. Turning to our category performance, Body Care sales grew low-single digits in the quarter, outperforming the shop as we maintained unit share in the category. Fine fragrance mist, men's, travel and lip were particular highlights. During the quarter, we had a limited launch of our Everyday Luxuries collection of fine fragrance mist, with success spurred on by the organic virality of the product. As the sprays went viral on social media, demand increased with fine fragrance mist outperforming the shop during that period. The demand was driven by a slightly younger and more diverse set of customers. As I said, this a limited test launch in about one-third of our US stores. Given the success, you will see us relaunch this line across the full North American fleet in the fall. The men's business continues to be one of our fastest-growing categories in Body Care, as we benefit from new forms introduced last year, including grooming and antiperspirant deodorant as well as the newness we infused into the core collection in the first quarter. Notwithstanding the growth in men's we've seen to date, customer awareness for men's remains relatively low and we continue to invest in new media channels to drive awareness and growth. We believe we have significant opportunity to drive increased visibility and expansion of this category. Travel, as I mentioned, outpaced the shop as we continue to take advantage of the trial and travel mindset. Home Fragrance sales were down mid-single digits to last year, yet we increased our unit market share slightly. Candle sales declined from last year as we not only continued to be impacted by candle normalization, but we also narrowed our assortment of single wick candles. We saw a slight decline in unit market share in candles in the quarter, while we maintained our market leadership. Our air fresheners or wallflowers grew unit share in the quarter. Our Soaps & Sanitizers category decreased low-single digits compared to last year. Despite slightly declining in unit market share, we maintained our strong market leadership. Within this, soaps increased, driven by refills. We've been pleased with the performance of our refills, which make up slightly less than 10% of the soap business. We've received positive customer feedback and have expanded the assortment since the launch. Meanwhile, sanitizers declined, driven by our decision to exit the full size form due to continued normalization in the category. Pocketbacs overall performed nicely in the quarter, growing versus the same period last year. We've been enhancing our current forms such as adding a moisturizing pocketbac. Finally, customers continue to look to us as an important gifting destination, which drove a 6% increase in giftsets in the quarter. As we look forward, continued innovation and newness that we have planned for the seasons ahead will continue to be key drivers across our products and merchandising. For our summer floorset, we delivered fresh and compelling new scents, such as our new Summer Glow collection and we expanded our SPF assortment and level of skin protection. Lip products outperformed the shop as we continued to roll out our fixture and expanded assortment to almost all North American stores. Our new lip fixture is attracting new, younger customers to our brand, which is encouraging customers to linger and play, doubling sales of lip in the stores with the new lip fixture. We're on track to complete the rollout to nearly all of our North American stores by July. As we've continued to optimize our assortment and maintain supply to meet customer demand, we are accelerating the rollout of our laundry line and now expect it to be in all US stores by late fall. With that, I'll turn it over to Eva.
Eva Boratto:
Thank you, Julie. Good morning, everyone. Before I review our first quarter fiscal results and fiscal 2024 guidance, I will provide an update on capital allocation. Our top priority remains driving sustainable long-term profitable growth through investments in the business. To support this, we continue to plan for $300 million to $325 million in capital projects during the year. And our priorities remain investment in brick and mortar stores and technology. In the first quarter, our total capital investment was $46 million. After investments in the business, our expectation for full year free cash flow generation remains between $675 million and $775 million, and we'll put that towards our priorities of dividends, share repurchases and debt deleveraging. During the quarter, we paid out $45 million in dividends. Subsequently, a few weeks ago, we announced a quarterly dividend of $0.20 per share payable later this month. We expect to continue our annual dividend of $0.80 per share with the intention to increase the dividend over time with sustained earnings growth. During the quarter, we repurchased 2.2 million shares of common stock for $99 million at an average price of $45.61 per share. Our full year guidance continues to include the expectation to repurchase approximately $300 million of shares opportunistically throughout fiscal 2024. We also remain committed to our goal of reducing our leverage ratio to approximately 2.5 times growth adjusted debt-to-EBITDAR. In the first quarter, we repurchased $109 million principal amount of senior notes and our ratio held steady at 2.8 times on a four-quarter trailing basis. Now moving to the income statement. In the first quarter, we reported earnings per diluted share of $0.38, exceeding our guidance of $0.28 to $0.33 per diluted share. Our outperformance in the quarter was driven by better-than-expected net sales and to a lesser extent buying and occupancy cost. Net sales of $1.4 billion for the quarter declined a better than expected 0.9% compared to the prior year. The outperformance in net sales was driven by strong floorsets in March, reflecting the newness that Julie described. As expected, the change in year-over-year net sales benefited by approximately 200 basis points from the shifted fiscal calendar resulting from the extra week in 2023. The benefit was offset by weaker-than-expected international ship sales and a decrease in average dollar sale as we continue to see the customer carefully manage their spending. As Gina previously discussed, AURs decreased 1% in the quarter versus our expectation of flat. Transactions were up for the quarter, driven by conversion. In US and Canadian stores, net sales totaled $1.1 billion, an increase of 3% versus the prior year. This is in line with our performance in Q4 of 2023 on a comparable calendar basis. Direct net sales were $261 million, a decline of 7% compared to last year. BOPIS continued to grow as our customers appreciate the convenience it offers. Keep in mind, BOPIS net sales are recognized as store net sales and we delivered approximately 50% growth in demand year-over-year, and BOPIS now represents approximately 25% of direct demand. So, when adjusted for BOPIS, stores and direct growth are more comparable. Note, we lapped the BOPIS US national rollout during the quarter. We generated $58 million of international net sales, a decline of 29% from last year's first quarter, which negatively impacted the year-over-year change in consolidated net sales by 170 basis points. The decline was driven by the decrease in wholesale revenue generated by product shipments to our franchise partners due to the markets affected by the war in the Middle East as those partners continue to manage their inventory levels in the face of subdued forecast. Total international system-wide retail sales from which we collect royalties were roughly flat to the prior year. Compared to the prior-year period, sales were up mid-teens outside of the areas affected by the war in the Middle East, while sales improved sequentially in areas impacted by the war. We continue to believe in the international opportunity and it is an important driver of long-term growth. First quarter gross profit rate was 43.8%, an increase of 110 basis points compared to prior year. Merchandise margin rate improved 110 basis points year-over-year, driven by a lower mix of international sales and lower transportation costs, partially offset by the modest AUR decline. Buying and occupancy expense as a percent of net sales was flat to last year. The outperformance was driven by strong execution in our fulfillment operations. Total first quarter SG&A deleveraged by 60 basis points versus last year, in line with expectations, which included the lapping of one-time discrete corporate expenses recognized in the first quarter last year. The benefits of our cost optimization work spans across both gross profit and SG&A. We continue to expect approximately $100 million in additional annual cost savings for fiscal year 2024, with benefits being realized earlier than expected. In the first quarter, we delivered approximately $40 million. First quarter total operating income increased by 3.6% to $187 million or 13.5% of net sales. Moving on to inventory, we ended the first quarter with total inventory dollars up 6% compared to last year, in line with our expectations. The increase in inventory is to support new product launches and additional stores. As we head into the second quarter, our inventory levels are appropriately positioned. Turning to real estate, our portfolio remains extremely healthy with more than half our fleet in off-mall locations. In the first quarter, we continued to increase our North American off-mall penetration, opening 15 new off-mall stores and permanently closing 11 stores, primarily in malls. Internationally, our partners ended the quarter with 486 stores. Turning now to our fiscal 2024 financial guidance. As a reminder, we are providing our guidance with comparisons to 2023 that included the 53rd week, which added about $81 million to net sales and $0.05 to diluted earnings per share. With that as background, we are narrowing full year guidance ranges for both the top- and bottom-line raising the midpoint while maintaining the high end for each. For the full year, we now expect net sales result to range between down 2.5% to flat year-over-year. Adjusting for the 53rd week in 2023, we expect net sales results to range between down 1.5% to up 1% with the extra week representing a headwind of approximately 100 basis points to our 2024 growth. We continue to expect net sales growth at both the midpoint and the high end and to turn positive in the second half of the year on a comparable week basis, as our marketing initiatives and our product launches in our adjacencies are scale. We now expect gross profit rate to be approximately 43.7%, and SG&A rate to be approximately 26.7%. The benefits of our cost optimization work mentioned previously are now expected to be more weighted to gross profit than SG&A at a split of approximately 60% and 40%, respectively. Our guidance for net non-operating expenses remain unchanged from the guidance we provided on our last earnings call. Considering all of the inputs, our updated full year guidance for earnings per diluted share is between $3.05 to $3.35. As Gina explained, we are taking a prudent approach to our guidance keeping in mind it's still early in the year and we remain in a dynamic consumer spending environment. Turning now to our second quarter 2024 guidance, we are forecasting a second quarter sales range of down 2% to flat versus prior year, with the high end of the range reflecting a sequential improvement over the prior quarter. We expect second quarter gross profit rate to be approximately 40%, in line with Q2 of 2023. In the second quarter, we will begin to lap merchandise margin rate expansion in the prior year. Our forecast reflects moderate improvement in year-over-year merch margin rate, offset by deleverage in buying and occupancy expense as a percent of net sales, driven by investments in store real estate. AURs in the second quarter are expected to be roughly flat. We expect our second quarter SG&A rate to be approximately 29% of net sales with the rate increase versus the prior year, driven largely by higher marketing investment and wage inflation, partially offset by our cost reduction initiative. We expect second quarter net non-operating expense of approximately $65 million, a tax rate of approximately 27% with weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 224 million. Considering all of these inputs, we are forecasting second quarter earnings per diluted share of between $0.31 and $0.36. And I'll now turn the call back to Gina for some closing remarks.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Eva. In closing, I'd like to emphasize again how pleased we are with our better-than-expected start to the year, a convincing step toward our anticipated return to top-line growth in the back half of the year. We are effectively executing on our strategic initiatives and creating more efficiencies in our business, which is allowing us to further reduce our debt and continue to return cash to shareholders. We continue to be excited about the opportunities ahead. I'll now turn the call over to the operator for questions.
Operator:
Thank you. [Operator Instructions] Our first question is coming from Simeon Siegel of BMO Capital Markets. Please go ahead.
Simeon Siegel:
Thanks. Hey, everyone. Good morning. Nice job.
Gina Boswell:
Good morning.
Simeon Siegel:
Sorry. Thank you. So, reflecting on your marketing campaign, the new product categories, the collaborations, just how are you thinking about the benefits you're seeing from these initiatives? Is it incremental customers? Is it incremental visits? Is it better pricing? Just I mean, how are you thinking about what you're learning through these initiatives? And then, a little bit more nuanced, you held B&O on the sales decline. You're guiding for deleverage going forward. Just what's the right way to think about the leverage point now? And I guess, I understand you're making investments in real estate, but I also wonder if you're lowering leverage points as you move off-mall. So, any color there would be helpful as well. Thank you.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Simeon. Nice to hear from you. I'll take the first part and ask that Eva speak to the B&O leverage. As far as the marketing and the new products and colabs, we have been investing in a full funnel approach and it's certainly driving top-of-brand awareness. You heard Julie mention the 800 million impressions from Bridgerton, so -- and the Everyday Luxuries that had all those viral impressions. So, whether it's colabs, whether it's the new media activities that we're engaging in, this is all inserting us into the cultural conversations that are most relevant for customers today, and we're monitoring reach as well as other key equity metrics. So, it's really exciting to see that it's working. It's working for us to gain more customers more often with more love, we like to say. So, it's still early in the journey, but we like what we see and we've got more excitement in store for our customers as we enter the fall.
Eva Boratto:
So thanks, Gina. Turning to the B&O, what I would say, Simeon, is, overall, we're really pleased with the progress we continue to make on driving overall gross margin improvements and you saw that in Q1. And as you look at B&O, I would continue to say to leverage B&O, it's about 2% to 3% sales growth. Rents per square foot off-mall are slightly lower. Q1, we were able to leverage flat B&O and we had some really great execution there in our operations and our fulfillment center. So, we'll continue to push ahead and drive improvements.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. We're ready for our next question.
Operator:
Thank you. The next question is coming from Alex Straton of Morgan Stanley. Please go ahead.
Alex Straton:
Perfect. Thanks for taking my questions. Just a couple here. First, on the Middle East-driven pressure, can you talk to us about your assumptions on how that evolves in the second quarter as well as your ability to offset that all -- at all? And if you could provide how much that represents as a percentage of international that would also be helpful. And then maybe taking a look forward, looking at the first quarter outcome, the second quarter guidance, full year guidance, it seems like you're embedding that gross margin would fall in the back half compared to expansion in the front half. So, can you just talk to us about the assumptions there? Thanks a lot.
Gina Boswell:
Great. Thank you. I will start, and then I think Eva will chime in. I just want to zoom out for a second on international. As you pointed out, this is directly affected by the war in the Middle East. If you remove the regions affected by the war, it's quite a healthy growing business with system-wide retail sales in the teens in the first quarter. So, we've got the near-term pressure in the Middle East, but all else is on track. And so, some of the offsets that we can speak to have to do with the opening of 35 net new stores in international. We mentioned not only the store -- the free first standing store in London, but also South Korea and also in existing markets our partners are expanding, for example, in Mexico as well as other markets in Q2. So, the big picture on the international is that the Middle East pressure has not changed our long-term international expansion plans. And then beyond that -- so I expect that, that will be the ability to offset. And we are expecting, I think, as Eva mentioned in her remarks, that even in the markets affected that that is moderating quarter by quarter.
Eva Boratto:
Yeah. Thanks, Gina. And I'll add a few things, Alex. There's many parts to your question here. As you look at our guidance that we provided today, in Q1, international did underperform our expectations. Our guidance assumes a wide range of scenarios from the low to the high. And I would say at the mid and the high, you expect international to -- we expect international to improve beginning in Q2, and there are expectations in the guidance. In terms of gross margin for the year, we're expecting gross margin for the year comparable with 2023. I would remind you we began driving merch margin improvements of Q2 of last year and continued throughout 2024. So that -- those improvements continue, but obviously we're wrapping them as we get to the mid-year. Merch margin improved about 50 basis points for the year and that's offset by B&O deleverage, given our investments in real estate.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. We're ready for our next question.
Operator:
Thank you. The next question is coming from Paul Lejuez of Citi. Please go ahead.
Unidentified Analyst:
Hi, thank you. This is [Kelly] (ph) on for Paul. Just curious on the AURs coming in at down 1% versus guidance. Given when you reported the fourth quarter, we already sort of knew about some of the product misses early in the quarter. Just curious how AUR kind of played out relative to plan in the back half of the quarter? I know you said flat, but were you expecting kind of more of a pullback on promos as we got into March, April? That's my first question. And secondly, just curious how your pure product costs trended ex transportation savings in 1Q. So, just your raw materials, how they turn it on an absolute basis and relative to expectations and whether you saw a benefit to merch margins and just how we're thinking about product cost for the rest of the year? Thanks.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. Thank you, Kelly. So, as it relates to AUR, AUR was under pressure in the very first start of the quarter. It was something that we actually foreshadowed in our last earnings call. You recall we had a floor set in February that wasn't resonating. So that's when we quickly pivoted and we pulled on the strategic promotion lever to build traffic. As we move through the quarter, we had strong floorsets with newness and that enabled us to achieve flat AUR in the back part of the quarter. So, we exited with flat AUR. So, other than the first part of Q1, we were no more promotional than we were last year and we're back on plan to our AUR flat expectations. And then the reminder here is on the full year guide is to expand AUR modestly for the full year. And then, for product cost, I'll ask Eva to chime in.
Eva Boratto:
Yeah. Thanks for the question. I'd say overall AUCs were essentially flat in the quarter as we expected.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. We're ready for our next question.
Operator:
Thank you. The next question is coming from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan. Please go ahead.
Amanda Douglas:
Great, thanks. It's Amanda Douglas on for Matt. So, Gina, could you elaborate on the drivers of 1Q's net sales outperformance versus your initial plan maybe as we think about by category? And just any changes in traffic or consumer behavior as you've progressed into May? And then Eva, just could you elaborate on the cost savings that you've identified within cost of goods sold to support your improved gross margin outlook on the year?
Gina Boswell:
Okay. That's a three-part question. We'll start with Julie on the category.
Julie Rosen:
Yeah. Hi, there. So, Body Care was low-single digits to the prior year and that was really driven by new and growing categories such as men's and lip, along with the performance in fine fragrance mist, including our Everyday Luxuries. Home Fragrance was down mid-single digits, while growing unit share, and this was really driven by continuing candle normalization. So, candles declined, and that was largely due to the narrowing of the assortment of the single-wick candles, which continued to decline, but we did maintain our market leadership. Our decline in candles was consistent with Q4 and we did grow unit share in wallflowers. From a Soap & Sanitizer perspective, the business was down low-single digits, in line with shop. And soaps actually were slightly above shop, and that was driven by the performance of our refills, which make up about less than 10% of our soap business. And we love our refills. It's a really great environmentally friendly way for our customer to partake in our soap business. And finally, sanitizers declined, and that was really driven by our decision to exit the full-sized form due to continued normalization in the category. Pocketbacs really performed quite nicely in the quarter, growing versus the same period last year and we really innovated here by introducing our moisturizing pocketbac.
Eva Boratto:
Great. Thanks, Julie. I'll start with your cost savings question and come back to the traffic. Overall, we are really pleased with how we're executing on the cost side of the equation. We've had a two-year plan to deliver $250 million in annual cost savings, and we're tracking well with the incremental $100 million in this year. It is skewed a little more toward gross margin about 60% of the savings. That's a little more skewed to gross margin than SG&A than last quarter. And the key drivers are transportation, sourcing, exit of one of our fulfillment centers that's enabling us to be more efficient. The remaining 40% in SG&A, it's efficiencies in our store operations, home office and indirect spend. So, again, we're really pleased with the progress that we're making there. Now coming back to traffic, overall traffic was flat for the quarter. As I think we said previously, transactions were up driven by conversion. While we target an overall omni experience, I'll say our traffic was a little stronger in stores and this was largely in the second half of the quarter. So, overall, we continue to execute against the business. And as Julie said, the newness really delivered for us in the quarter.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. We're ready for our next question please.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Lorraine Hutchinson of Bank of America. Please go ahead.
Lorraine Hutchinson:
Thank you. Good morning. I wanted to dig into the moving pieces behind your outlook on AUR for the back half. Are you raising ticket to ensure you're paid for some of the new formulation investments? Or do you plan to give some of that value back to the customer through price or promotion?
Julie Rosen:
Yeah. Hi, Lorraine. I'll take that question. It's Julie. We really continue to balance the need to keep engagement and traffic strong with our desire to increase our pricing, right? So, we use our very agile operating model. It really allows us to increase or decrease promotional levels in a meaningful way and test for the best outcomes. We did not take widespread ticket increases in Q1 of '24, but we are lapping some increases from '23. And we did take selective pricing actions in certain product launches like Bridgerton and Everyday Luxuries due to the elevated packaging and storytelling that came from these forms where we know we can get paid. Thank you.
Gina Boswell:
And I'll also add that this is still materially up from the pre-pandemic, so our AUR increases relative to 2019 are quite healthy. So, thank you for the question. We're ready for our next.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Kate McShane of Goldman Sachs. Please go ahead.
Kate McShane:
Hi, good morning. Thanks for taking our question. We wondered if you could comment at all about occasion buying versus buying during a more shoulder period, which I think the second quarter is for you just with the events of Easter and Mother's Day and the like in Q1, there are not quite -- not a few -- as many occasions in Q2. So, could you maybe talk to us a little bit about, again, how you view Q2 playing out given that dynamic and how we should think about it?
Julie Rosen:
Yeah. Hi, Kate. Q2 actually, we had a great gifting business. Our gift sets were up 6% in the quarter. And for Q2, we have three great gifting periods, right? We have Valentine's Day, we have Easter, and then we have the beginning of Mother's Day. The other big portion, as I think you all know, of Q2 for us is our Semi-Annual Sale. So, those are the things that really drive our Q2 and we were very pleased with Valentine's Day, Easter, and the beginning of Mother's Day, as I said, with gift sets being up 6%.
Gina Boswell:
Next question, please.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Ike Boruchow of Wells Fargo. Please go ahead.
Ike Boruchow:
Hey, thanks. Good morning. Eva, I have two for you. Again, I don't mean to beat a dead horse on the AUR, but my question is, which I think has been asked a couple of different ways, when you guys gave guidance on the last call, I believe you had guided AUR flat and it came in a touch worse. I know you guys are saying that it improved on the exit of the quarter, but it just seems like something wasn't to the degree that you'd hoped it was on the upside. So, just trying to understand if you could parse that out. And then a quick follow-up on the model, Eva. I know there's like 200 basis points benefit from the calendar in the first quarter. Could you kind of walk us through the next three quarters? I feel like it's a little wacky depending on the retailer in terms of like what benefits to expect I think in 2Q and 3Q, and then how big is the headwind coming in the calendar in 4Q? Thanks.
Eva Boratto:
Yeah. Thanks for the question, Ike. I'll start with your -- the second question first on the calendar shift. As we said, first quarter benefited by 200 basis points. Q2, there is a negligible calendar impact to us. Q3, we would expect another positive calendar shift comparable I'd say to the level in Q1. And in the fourth quarter those benefits obviously would reverse. In terms of the AUR at the risk of being redundant, right, as we said on our last quarter, we started out soft and we leveraged AUR, I'll say in the first half of the quarter to use our agile promotion model to drive traffic and conversion while also balancing our margin rate. And as we progress through the quarter and our March floorset was strong, we were able to pull back and that was Gina's comment around exiting the quarter at flattish. So, again, the AUR you're right, it is pressured from our guidance, but as we look at the overall quality of our quarter at the results that we drove, we believe we made the right decisions to drive the business forward.
Gina Boswell:
And if I may add, we're always doing that up or down to meet the customer where they're at. So, I have been relatively still new to this model of agility where you can actually almost measure the elasticities within weeks. If we guide to flat and we feel the need to use promotion as a strategic lever to get that so long as the quality of everything else is intact, including by the way our gross margin, we can optimize the top-line. So, I just want to make sure that we're clear that when we guide to flat, we can sometimes be up as we were in the fourth quarter and we can sometimes be down, but the important point is that we're trying to get a good quality view and meeting the most customers where they're at. Thank you for the question. We're ready for our next.
Operator:
Thank you. The next question is coming from Olivia Tong of Raymond James. Please go ahead.
Olivia Tong:
Great. Thank you. I wanted to better understand a few things, one of them being your view on the retail competition and how that might be impacting you. We've obviously heard a lot of comments from Ulta, some more in terms of the activity in Amazon and [off-price]within these categories. I know they're not direct competitors, but just thinking through how that may be impacting your business? And then, apologies for another question on AUR, but if you could potentially give us a little bit of color on what you saw in May, and then just talking about the second half initiatives that could drive the improvement that you're expecting? Thank you.
Julie Rosen:
Hi, there. It's Julie. I'll take the competition questions. So, we participate in very attractive market segments, right? The competition is always top of mind for us. We think that they're always right on our doorstep. It's why we're really focused on offering innovative products that perform well against the high standards of our customers. So, innovation is literally our lifeblood. It sets us apart from the competition. We know that they don't stand still and we work really hard as a team to stay ahead. I would say that two competitive advantages really help us do this. One is our vertically integrated model. It really enables us to act with speed. We were able to react to Bridgerton, to best scents, best fragrances, get back into them. We can do this more quickly than anybody else out there. And the second competitive advantage is our unique immersive selling environment, that is found in our best-in-class stores. We are really able to tell transportive stories, which is a competitive advantage for us that you don't see at the Targets or the Ultas of the world. And as a fragrance-first company, the quality of our fragrances and our work with the top fragrance houses in the world really help us deliver products that our customer needs across many different forms, whether it's body wash, a candle, a wallflower or a lip product. So, we have a constant eye on the competition.
Eva Boratto:
Great. And I'll pick up on your question regarding what we've seen so far in May. The trends that we've seen so far are contemplated in our guidance outlook that we provided today both sales and AUR.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. We're ready for our next question.
Operator:
Thank you. The next question is coming from Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group. Please go ahead.
Dana Telsey:
Good morning. Just one more thing on AUR. As you think about the different categories of merchandise and as we go through the year, are you expecting any differences to how the categories AURs are as we go from 1Q to 2Q to 3Q to 4Q and what you're seeing? And then, on the direct business versus the retail stores business, any difference in pricing that we should be aware of? And then, Julie, just in terms of the new categories out there, what are you most excited about as we go through the balance of the year given the increased laundry? Anything we should be watching for in terms of the newness? Thank you.
Gina Boswell:
So, I'll start with the AUR category differences. We look at it in total, as you know, we do different ticket increases and then we have promotions throughout the year. So, no noticeable or planned differences as we move through the year. There'll be more surprise and delights, and those would be opportunities for us to move AUR up in those instances. But in general, we're trying to build really compelling baskets as well with cross category opportunities. In terms of direct versus stores, we try very hard to be an omnichannel player, meaning no specific advantage to direct or stores because what we really want to incent is dual shopping, because those are the most valuable excited about. And in terms of excitement about newness, Julie, if you want to comment on that? There's lots to be excited about.
Julie Rosen:
Hi, Dana. It's nice to hear your voice. There is a lot to be excited about, and me and my team are very pleased with our new adjacencies. So, as we look to return to growth, we have four key elements and they're all important to our strategy. You heard Gina say new adjacencies is one of them. So, we continue to be excited about men's. It's our fastest growing category in Body Care. We're really benefiting from forms we introduced last year in APDO and grooming as well as newness in the core collection, which is really driving a lot of that growth. And we are seeing a slightly younger customer in men's. From a lip perspective, so lip sales in stores that have our new lip fixture doubled and we are on track to really complete that rollout to nearly all North American stores by July. We have a great routine that we're introducing customers to through this fixture. It's a routine of scrub, mask and tint, and it is resonating with customers. And we're seeing a younger customer sort of linger out the fixture and play and then go and purchase. From a hair perspective, another exciting category, we rolled hair to the full fleet earlier this year. And we're continuing to learn. We are learning that our core best-selling fragrances that we're famous for are really resonating with our customer. We continue to test fragrances and we'll continue to optimize our assortment. We've also seen that 14% of those customers are new to brand. And we're very excited, because we just launched our travel-sized shampoo and conditioner this month, and customers were asking for that because it's a great way for them to gain trial into a new category. And of course, laundry, which I know is everybody's favorite. We ended Q1 with laundry in about 300 stores, and we are thrilled to announce that we will be rolling it to all US stores by late fall. We've been testing and tinkering with different assortments in different stores to ensure that we continue to optimize and right size. But just quickly above and beyond, we have other things that we are delivering that are innovative and new and exciting besides just the adjacencies. Just for summer this last month, we delivered fresh and compelling new scents. We have our new Summer Glow collection. We also delivered our expanded SPF assortment with a higher level of protection, which our customers were asking for and we're very excited about that. And then, we haven't spent a lot of time talking about Bridgerton, but that was very exciting for us as our first partnership with Netflix and you should expect to see more partnerships as the year progressed.
Gina Boswell:
Yeah. And if I could just add, and I know that was described, but you can hear the passion in Julie's voice, I think what we try to think about in the newness category is its core and more. And we speak about growing the core, which these partnerships and collaborations do just that and then the more on the adjacencies is also critical. Both of these, these are two of the four levers, which we will rely on to inflect in the back half of the growth. And so -- that's why we're so excited about it, because it is truly driving the inflection point at the mid and high point of our guidance. Thank you. Next question?
Operator:
Our next question is coming from Jonna Kim of TD Cowen. Please go ahead.
Jonna Kim:
Thanks for taking my question. Just wanted to get more color on your expectations for the Home Fragrance category and your business in the back half, if anything has changed since last quarter there? And also your increasing marketing spend and talked about full-funnel marketing, but how are you measuring ROI and how are you allocating your spend across different channels in the back half? Thank you so much.
Eva Boratto:
Yeah, thanks for the question. I'll start in terms of our overall expectations for the back half of the year. As you look at the guidance that we provided today, our assumptions behind the inflection point and returning to growth in the back half of the year remain consistent, the four elements that we outlined. And they're
Gina Boswell:
Yes. And then, on the question about marketing spend, which we commented earlier and how that is driving the customership increases as well as the exciting engagement and the deepening of engagement, we are measuring ROI through a number of tools that people often use, which is the marketing model where we can actually attribute a dollar spend and what that drives to the top-line. But we're also using the technology as well to do some targeting and tools. Like for example, we have a targeting model now that uses machine learning algorithms and it can predict when a one trip customer can make their second purchase based on purchase behavior and the social engagement and the segmentation. And then, these customers are then targeted with personalized offers. So, there's early innings here and really promising results. So, I think of marketing hand in glove with technology so that we can actually optimize and get the highest bang for our buck with respect to those investments. So, you should expect more of that in the back half. I think we have time for one more question, please.
Operator:
Thank you. Our final question today is coming from Korinne Wolfmeyer of Piper Sandler. Please go ahead.
Korinne Wolfmeyer:
Hey, good morning. Thanks for taking the question. First, could you just clarify the commentary on returning to growth in the back half? I assume that's assuming the high end of your guidance range. And how are you thinking about returning to growth from like Q3 and Q4 and kind of like the cadence there? And then separately, on some of the new product launches, could you talk a little bit about now that you have some of the more like loyalty membership data, how much of that new product uptake in sales is coming from customers maybe newer to those products versus customers who are now starting to replenish those products? Thanks.
Eva Boratto:
Thanks. This is Eva. Korinne, I'll take the first part -- your first question first. Our return to growth is at the mid and the high point and the high end of our guidance on a 52 comparable week basis. And as you look at the cadence Q3, Q4, we would expect to return to growth in Q3.
Julie Rosen:
Yeah. And as far as customers are concerned with the new categories, from a lip perspective, we're seeing a younger more diverse customer. And as I mentioned from a hair perspective, 14% of those customers are new to brand, as well as men's, we're seeing some new customers and slightly younger coming to us for men's. That being said, as I said in my script, we still think we have huge opportunity to attract more men to the brand and you see us investing in more marketing and in more media to attract them.
Gina Boswell:
And I'll also add that in this first quarter, the 43% of loyalty enrollees were new customers. And so getting them in the program, getting them the kind of offers to really take the entire portfolio, there's so much data capture where we can use clickstream data to really recommend products and things like that. So, we expect new customers, existing customers and reactivated customers alike to really benefit from the loyalty program. Thank you.
Operator:
Thank you. At this time, I would like to turn the floor back over to Mr. McGuire for closing comments.
Mike McGuire:
Thank you, Donna. A replay of this call will be available for 90 days on our website. Thank you for joining today, and of course, thank you for your interest in Bath & Body Works. Have a good day.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you.
Operator:
Ladies and gentlemen, this concludes today's event. You may disconnect your lines and log off the webcast at this time, and enjoy the rest of your day.
Operator:
Good morning, my name is Paul, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Fourth Quarter 2023 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Mike McGuire, Interim Head of Investor Relations. Mike, you may begin.
Michael McGuire:
Thank you, Paul. Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works Fourth Quarter 2023 Earnings Conference Call. Joining me on the call today are Gina Boswell, Chief Executive Officer; Julie Rosen, President Retail; and Eva Boratto, Chief Financial Officer. In addition to this call in this morning's press release, we have posted a slide presentation on our website that summarizes the information in our prepared remarks as well as some additional facts and figures regarding our operating performance and guidance.
Today's call may contain forward-looking statements related to future events and expectations. Please refer to this morning's press release and the risk factors in Bath & Body Works 2022 Form 10-K for factors that could cause the actual results to differ materially from these forward-looking statements. Today's call contains certain non-GAAP financial measures. Please refer to this morning's press release and supplemental materials for important disclosures regarding such measures, including reconciliations to the most comparable GAAP financial measure. Additionally, the fourth quarter and full year 2023 earnings results we shared today are on a continuing operations basis. I'll now turn the call over to Gina.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Mike, and good morning, everyone. Thank you for joining us today. Before we begin, I want to thank our outstanding teams, especially our store and distribution center associates. They do a terrific job delivering a great experience to our customers and executing on our strategic initiatives. Our fourth quarter performance is a great example of just that as we ended the year strongly, generating sales and earnings that both exceeded our expectations.
It's been just over a year since I joined Bath & Body Works as CEO, and the team has made significant progress in delivering against the 5 key growth drivers, I outlined at the beginning of 2023. While we've been pleased with the headway we've made, I know that we have more work ahead of us. In the 14-week fourth quarter of 2023, net sales of $2.9 billion grew 0.8% compared to the 13-week fourth quarter in the prior year. This result was above the high end of our outlook. Fourth quarter adjusted earnings per diluted share of $2.06 was better than anticipated and up nearly 11% from the prior year's fourth quarter. This outperformance was driven by strong merchandise margin as we drove an improvement of 290 basis points year-over-year. As expected, EPS benefited from the extra week by about $0.05. Average unit retails grew by 2%, which was greater than the growth we saw in all previous quarters during the year. This increase in AUR was driven by a thoughtfully planned pricing strategy. Overall, our promotional activities were comparable to last year, that is we had the same number of events of slightly longer duration, but we didn't need to go as deep. During holiday, we were pleased to see customers responding positively to our core merchandise along with gifting and our traditional holiday favorites. Notably, we delivered a low single-digit sales increase in our critical Thanksgiving to Christmas time period, even after adjusting for the longer holiday period. Both Black Friday week and Candle Day weekend were successful and our Candle event was a great example of our omnichannel strategy in action. It's an event that our customers look forward to given their general love of our brand and the category and we successfully amplified it with BOPIS and day 1 exclusive loyalty access for members. We are pleased that we're beginning to see the benefits of the decisions we've made within the Candle category. However, we recognize that normalization is still impacting the business. Our Men's Shop continues to grow with 2/3 of category growth coming from the addition of new products. This new assortment was further supported by our first ever large-scale influencer program featuring professional and college football stars and an experiential tour, which enabled hundreds of thousands of men to sample our products in less than 2 months. We continue to lean into this category to drive increased awareness and customer acquisition. And we were well positioned in our newest categories such as fragrance hair care, our expanded lip collection and laundry and we'll continue to roll these out throughout the year. While dual channel traffic was up through the holiday period, we experienced softness during January, and that continued into early February. Consistent with external market data, we are continuing to see customers carefully manage their spending, which has pressured basket size and conversion. Let me now turn to our 5 key growth drivers. First, elevating the brand through innovation and product upgrades; second, extending our reach through new category adjacencies and international growth; third, engaging the customer fostering a deeper connection with the customer through our loyalty program, enhanced technology and greater personalization; fourth, enabling a seamless omnichannel experience; and finally, is enhancing operational excellence to drive efficiency. Foundational to these growth drivers is the creation of great products and delivering innovation and newness for our customers. Other critical elements to support those are a focus on marketing and technology initiatives, and I'd like to take time for a click down into each of these this morning. First, marketing. We know that in order to achieve our long-term net sales target of $10 billion, we need to grow spend with our existing customers as well as grow the number of customers who shop with us each year. We have invested and will continue to invest in multiple types of marketing to reach further into the market of 175 million consumers who buy fragrance products each year in the U.S. and drive higher penetration. Our high-value loyalty program that we have quickly scaled also plays an important role in our efforts, and I'll talk more about that shortly. As we're executing our marketing programs, we are working to make our brand more top of mind, increase the likelihood to purchase, drive more conversion and deepen brand loyalty. Last fall, our team developed a new brand campaign called Come Back to Your Senses, and we launched that during the fourth quarter. This campaign was a full funnel program designed to reach more people at greater frequency, and we are seeing high levels of engagement. We're continuing this campaign, expanding into other new channels such as connected TV and out-of-home. We're also giving consumers more reason to consider our brand through influencer campaigns, pop-up experiences and new collaborations. You may recall us speaking earlier in the year about our customer segmentation analysis, designed to develop a better understanding of our core customer segments and the biggest growth opportunities. Leveraging these segmentation efforts, we have made investments in lower funnel channels, such as paid search, using first-party data and machine learning to retarget customers delivering more personalized marketing and push messaging to drive urgency. Notably, our investments in both our full funnel marketing and other new marketing campaigns generated 9 billion media impressions in the fourth quarter, more than doubling impressions year-over-year. Our full funnel marketing and the scaling of our predictive customer retention model helped drive the 2% increase in retained customers we saw in the fourth quarter. Turning to our technology initiatives. Our first priority this past year was the separation of our IT systems from Victoria's Secret, which was largely completed over the summer. At the same time, we have also begun investing in the foundational tools and systems needed to support future growth. There are table stakes capabilities we must build in order to continue to evolve our loyalty program, to support more advanced analytics and strengthen the omnichannel experience we deliver for our customers. In the fourth quarter, we continue to evolve the digital experience to include features like social proofing enhanced personalized product recommendations and BOPIS enhancements, which has been proven to increase conversion. BOPIS order fulfillment increased approximately 88% in the fourth quarter versus the prior year and our total digital conversion trend in Q4 was up 3% compared to the prior year. Looking forward, we are excited about adding personalized landing pages, immersive content and the introduction of a new AI-driven digital fragrance finder to be rolled out in the back half of this year. The investments in our marketing and technology are critical to our long-term success. I am pleased with how the team has implemented our initiatives over the past year, and we're excited about the opportunities ahead as we continue our investments in 2024. In connection with this discussion of our marketing and technology initiatives, I'd also like to provide an update on our loyalty program. The pace of enrollment in the program since the August 2022 launch has been strong and there is still opportunity to drive even more engagement from our customers. Nearly 80% of our U.S. revenue now flows through loyalty and those who redeem rewards have been proven to spend more with our brand. We introduced point accelerators in the fourth quarter with the goal of helping customers redeem more frequently, and we plan to test and bring additional enhancements to the program throughout 2024 including additional early access and member-only events. Holiday helped drive high levels of enrollment, especially by leveraging our big days. The omnichannel early access loyalty-only events for Candle Day and Body Care Day generated record loyalty sales penetration rates. Of our more than 45 million enrolled members, approximately 37 million were active at the end of the year, which is up 3% from the third quarter and over 30% year-over-year. Now that we have anniversaried the program launch, active members is the right metric to track. Importantly, we are very pleased that 36% of new loyalty members in the quarter were new to our brand. Before I turn the call over to Julie, I'd like to speak briefly to our outlook for 2024, and then Eva will provide more details. We had a strong holiday. We are well positioned for a strong spring and summer together with all the newness to come, and we are cautiously optimistic about customer spending for the year. However, we are seeing macroeconomic pressures continue and our largest product category, Candles, continues to normalize. Taking headwinds and tailwinds into consideration, we expect net sales and operating income to be down on a year-over-year basis as we begin the year. We then expect to see net sales inflect and begin to grow during the second half of the year. Importantly, the high end of our outlook contemplates holding operating income margins in line with 2023 even as we continue to reinvest in the business. Finally, in addition to executing our strategic initiatives and creating more efficiencies in our business, we are focused on continuing to reduce our leverage and return cash to shareholders. This past year, we made good progress in all these areas and we expect to continue to do so in 2024. As part of this, I'm pleased to announce that our Board recently approved a new authorization to repurchase up to $500 million of outstanding shares. With that, I'll turn the call over to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Gina. I would like to echo Gina and thanking our teams for delivering an exceptional experience to our customers and for their tireless work during the holiday season. As a result of their success, we are well positioned for a strong spring and summer and all the newness to come.
In the fourth quarter, our holiday performance was supported by several key drivers including strength in our core fragrances, such as Champagne Toast, Mahogany Teakwood and Eucalyptus Mint, coupled with new and returning seasonal collections, including Holiday Traditions and Evergreen Lane. Customers turn to us to celebrate the season and responded to how we presented a seamless and easy gifting destination by providing covetable offerings at all price points. This year, we strategically placed gift sets at the front of shop and expanded our range of price points and forms, which led to a very strong business in the fourth quarter, exceeding our expectations and prior year results with record high gift set sales. We also focused our stores and web shop on a storybook theme, which resulted in a successful floor set that yielded repeat trips and transactions. Turning to our category performance, we continue to be very excited about the growth of our Men's business as it introduces new customers to our brand and attracts the attention of a younger, slightly more diverse customer. Our new marketing activations, amplifying this category, such as our social media influencers and pop-up shops are resonating with our customer and our fueling growth. The business continues to be our fastest-growing category in body care, and we're seeing strong growth in the new forms we introduced earlier this year, principally grooming and antiperspirant deodorant. In the fourth quarter, we infused newness into the collection, resulting in our core and seasonal fragrances exceeding our expectations. We've been able to maintain our strong market leadership position in the sanitizer business. Though as expected, we continue to see a shift out of this category, which, of course, surged during the pandemic. Body Care sales grew low single digits in the quarter and outperformed expectations, driven in part by men, which I just discussed. Our customers continue to show their affinity for our Body Care collection as evidenced by the strength of our Body Care Days in December. Travel, which also grew year-over-year outpaced other categories due to strong inventory availability and customers adding on these products to their transactions. Home Fragrance was down low single digits in the quarter compared to last year as anticipated. However, we had our first-ever loyalty Omni early access event for our Candle Day weekend and our highest U.S. dual channel sales day ever. Customers showed up in a meaningful way demonstrating the desirability and giftability of our candles. Wallflowers continue to be a strong and steady category with Wallflower Bulbs posting low single-digit growth driven by strong Holiday Fragrance selling and increased units. Turning to innovation and newness, both of which continue to be key drivers across our products and merchandising. This spring, we're delivering fresh and compelling new scents, such as our new Sweet Heart Cherry, Valentine's Day collection and Tropidelic. We are also introducing Brightest Bloom, our fragrance for Mother's Day and have new launches planned for summer and later in the year. As part of our continued sustainability initiatives, we have expanded our soap decanters and cartons that enable our customers to conveniently refill and reuse their soap containers. This new form is growing quickly, and we're looking forward to expanding scents and offerings this year. Additionally, after years of hard work, we're thrilled to announce that our total body care assortment has been fully reformulated and is now made without sulfate and parabens. We're excited about completing the rollout of our fragrance haircare line to the North American fleet. This category has attracted a new customer to Bath & Body Works with 14% of fragrance hair care customers new to our brand. Lip products have attracted new younger customers to our brand and represent an opportunity to expand our customer base. To capture this opportunity, we have relaunched our in-store assortment and the visual presentation of our lip products across 380 stores and the goal is to complete the rollout of this fixture and expanded assortment to all North American stores by July of this year. Our new lip fixture encourages customer interaction and supports expanded assortment, which is doubling lip sales in those stores. Last quarter, we discussed the launch of our laundry line and our best-selling fragrances and a very limited number of stores and online. We have since rolled this out to just over 200 stores and have plans to continue to expand to roughly half of the U.S. fleet in the fall. Like our other new categories, laundry has attracted new customers to the brand and their feedback has been positive, noting that laundry is yet another new and exciting way to add fragrance to their lifestyle and their daily routine. With that, I'll turn it over to Eva.
Eva Boratto:
Thank you, Julie, and good morning, everyone. Before I jump into the review of our fourth quarter financial results and fiscal year 2024, I first want to focus on our approach to capital allocation. Our top priority is to invest in the business to drive sustainable, long-term profitable growth.
In fiscal 2023, we generated $954 million of operating cash flow. And of that, we invested $298 million into capital projects primarily related to real estate and technology. Brick-and-mortar stores are an important part of our omnichannel ecosystem and brand experience. Gina earlier discussed the investments we've made and will continue to make in technology in projects that will provide a better shopping experience for our customers. Ultimately, we believe investments in these areas will generate profitable growth for the company and you will continue to see us focus on them. After investments in the business, we generated $656 million in free cash flow in fiscal 2023 allowing us to return cash to shareholders and deleverage our balance sheet, both of which are priorities for us. As a reminder, we have a goal to reduce our leverage ratio to approximately 2.5x gross adjusted debt to EBITDA. In fiscal 2023, we repurchased $485 million principal amount of senior notes for $447 million. As a result, we made good progress on our goal ending the year at 2.8x, which is down from 3.1x a year ago. After paying $182 million in dividends during 2023, we were able to repurchase 4.1 million shares of common stock for $149 million for an average price of $36.38 per share. In 2024, we will continue to prioritize investments in the business, and we expect to invest between $300 million and $325 million in capital projects during the year. We expect to generate free cash flow of $675 million to $775 million and put that towards our priorities of dividend, share repurchase and deleveraging. We expect to continue our annual dividend of $0.80 per share with an intention to increase the dividend over time as earnings increase. Leveraging the new share repurchase authorization, our outlook includes the expectation to repurchase approximately $300 million of shares spread throughout the fiscal 2024. And finally, we will consider opportunistic debt repurchases subject to market conditions. Now moving to the income statement. In the 14-week fourth quarter, we reported adjusted earnings per diluted share of $2.06, exceeding our outlook of $1.70 to $1.90 per diluted share. Our adjusted results exclude $112 million tax benefit from the partial release of a valuation allowance on a foreign deferred tax asset. An $8 million pretax impairment charge on an equity method investment and a $6 million pretax gain on the early extinguishment of debt associated with the repurchases in the quarter. Our outperformance in the quarter was primarily driven by strong merchandise margin and net sales outperformance. Adjusted diluted earnings per share also benefited from a lower tax rate. Net sales for the quarter were $2.9 billion and grew 0.8% compared to 2022. The extra week in 2023 added approximately $80 million to our top line. So on a comparable 13-week basis, net sales declined by 2% year-over-year. The year-over-year decline was driven by a decrease in traffic outside of the holiday period. We did see an improvement in conversion and average dollar sale versus prior quarters in the year. As Gina mentioned previously, our AURs increased 2% in the quarter. In U.S. and Canadian stores, 14-week fourth quarter net sales totaled $2.2 billion, an increase of 4% versus the prior year. Reported fourth quarter direct net sales were $656 million, a decline of 8% compared to last year. Adjusted for BOPIS, direct demand declined 2% and in the fourth quarter. As a reminder, BOPIS net sales are recognized as store net sales, and we'll be marking the anniversary of our completion of the BOPIS rollout to all U.S. stores during the first quarter. International net sales were $94 million and declined 1% versus last year reflecting challenges in the Middle East. As a reminder, there are 2 components to our international net sales, royalties collected from franchise retail sales and wholesale revenue generated by the product we sell to our franchise partners. Our total international system-wide retail sales declined mid-single digits in the fourth quarter and were up in the low teens outside of the areas affected by the war in the Middle East. Fourth quarter gross profit rate was 45.9%, an increase of 260 basis points compared to the prior year. A sequential year-over-year improvement of 120 basis points from the third quarter, our second consecutive quarter of improvement versus the prior year. Merchandise margin rate improved 290 basis points year-over-year, driven by AUR increases and approximately $60 million of deflation benefiting product and transportation costs. This margin expansion was partially offset by continued investment in product reformulation and packaging innovation as we continue to elevate the brand. Improvements in merchandise margin were partially offset by buying and occupancy expense deleverage, primarily due to increased occupancy costs associated with new store growth. Total fourth quarter SG&A deleveraged by 130 basis points versus last year driven by investments in marketing and technology, partially offset by the benefits of our cost optimization initiatives. Additionally, included in our SG&A is approximately $10 million of expense associated with our cost reduction initiatives, primarily severance. Our cost optimization work spans across both gross profit and SG&A and delivered benefits of approximately $50 million in the quarter, in line with our outlook. We have delivered approximately $150 million of total savings for 2023 exceeding our initial goal of $100 million. Taking all of this into consideration, fourth quarter total operating income was $696 million or 23.9% of net sales. For the full year, operating income was 17.3% of net sales. Moving on to inventory. We continue to efficiently manage our inventory, ending the fourth quarter with total inventory dollars about flat compared to last year in a quarter that saw sales growth. As we head into the spring, we feel our inventory levels are appropriately positioned. Turning to real estate. Our portfolio remains extremely healthy with 99% of the fleet profitable and stores significantly outperforming pre-pandemic levels. As a reminder, more than half our fleet is in off-mall locations. We made additional progress increasing our off-fall penetration during the quarter. For the full year, we opened 94 new off-mall North American stores and permanently closed 39 mall stores. As a result of our net store openings and remodels, we grew net square footage by about 4% for the full year. And internationally, our partners opened 27 net new stores during the quarter and ended the year with 485 stores. Now let me walk through our fiscal 2024 financial outlook. We are providing our 2024 outlook with comparisons to 2023 that include the 53rd week which, as I said earlier, added approximately $80 million to net sales and $0.05 to diluted EPS. For the year, we expect net sales results to range between down 3% to flat year-over-year. Adjusting for the 53rd week in 2023, we expect net sales to range between down 2% to up 1% with the extra week representing a headwind of about 100 basis points to our 2024 growth. Our outlook reflects the building of capabilities and the launching of products designed to drive customer acquisition and net sales growth. We are increasing our marketing investments to drive customer acquisition and retention. This will include a variety of marketing programs as well as enhancements to our loyalty program. We are investing in technology at comparable levels to 2023, which will support these marketing and loyalty program initiative while creating a more seamless experience overall. We plan to drive growth through our product adjacencies. These include building greater awareness of our Men's Shop, our recently completed fragrant hair care rollout and the extension of the rollout of lip and laundry while continuing to focus on the core. We expect category normalization to continue, but moderate as we move through the year. And we will continue expansion efforts within international to provide healthy and margin accretive growth to our business. As these capabilities are scaled and benefits build through the year, we expect net sales growth to turn positive in the second half of the year, as we noted on last quarter's call. Our total cost optimization goal is now approximately $250 million, up from our previous goal of $200 million. We now expect approximately $100 million incremental cost savings this year. We expect a full year gross margin rate of approximately 43.5% at the midpoint of our range, representing continued improvement in merchandise margin, driven by modest AUR expansion and product cost declines. We expect buying and occupancy expense as a percent of net sales to deleverage slightly for the full year, driven by our investments in our store real estate. Our full year outlook assumes an SG&A rate of approximately 26.5%, with deleverage driven by higher marketing investments as well as wage inflation, both of which we expect to partially offset by our cost reduction initiatives. We expect full year net nonoperating expense of approximately $270 million an effective tax rate of approximately 27% and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 224 million. Considering all of these inputs, we are forecasting full year earnings per diluted share to be between $3 and $3.35. For the first quarter, you can find commentary on the details of our outlook in the slide presentation, but I'll quickly provide the numbers here. Our outlook includes net sales down 4.5% to down 2%. We expect first quarter gross margin rate to be approximately 42.5%. AURs in the first quarter are expected to be flat. We expect our first quarter SG&A rate to be approximately 30.5% of net sales. We expect first quarter net nonoperating expense of approximately $70 million and a tax rate of approximately 28% with weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 226 million. Considering all of these inputs, we are forecasting first quarter earnings per diluted share of $0.28 to $0.33. And I'll now turn the call back to Gina for some closing remarks.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Eva. As we enter 2024, we are pleased to be able to leverage our clean inventory position, a compelling product assortment and exceptional store experience with our associates who are ready to serve an omnichannel model that allows customers to shop whenever and however they want. Bath & Body Works has a strong foundation with leading market share, top brand awareness and a competitive advantage in our vertically integrated supply chain that allows us to respond quickly to changing trends. We have a healthy balance sheet, strong free cash flow generation and balanced capital allocation plans.
The outlook ranges that Eva discussed for the first quarter and the full year take into consideration the mix of headwinds and tailwinds we expect through 2024 as we continue to execute our strategic initiatives. Longer term, we remain confident in our ability to achieve our $10 billion of net sales and 20% operating income margin targets. And with that, I'll turn it over to Mike for questions.
Michael McGuire:
Thank you, Gina. For our Q&A session, we ask that participants limit their responses to one question and one follow-up. So we'll now move to the Q&A session. Paul?
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question is from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Can you talk about the drivers of the fourth quarter AUR up 2%? And then why AURs would go from flat in 1Q to up for the year? What are the key reasons for that?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Lorraine. Great to hear from you. I'll ask Julie if she can chime in with that question first.
Julie Rosen:
Lauren, I hope you are well. So we are constantly balancing the need to keep engagement and traffic strong with our desire to increase pricing as well as have a very agile operating model that allows us to increase or decrease promotional levels in a meaningful way to test for outcomes. So we've taken select price increases in 2023 to raise our AURs. You see that in more differentiated assortments that really drive pricing power, whether it be 3-wick lids, our new seasonal single-wick waffle, faceted bottles. Our AURs were up 2% and better than expected and we have a very thoughtful and planned pricing strategy and really levers that we pull to manage our AUR on a constant basis.
Some of what we do is around bundles, others is that we take other opportunities. We were not more promotional this year than we were last year. We had the same number of events. They were slightly longer, but we did not have to take them as deep. And you probably noticed that in between our big events, we added in some other events to create engagement. We do have a very price-conscious consumer and so we are just ensuring that we are meeting them where they are at, while using our very agile operating model where we're constantly testing on the side for the best options. So we have robust strategies and robust testing going on to manage our AUR all the time.
Operator:
Our next question is from Kate McShane with Goldman Sachs.
Katharine McShane:
I wondered if there was a way that you could quantify maybe the level innovation -- level of innovation or level of newness that we can expect to see in your stores and online in fiscal year '24 versus what we saw this previous year?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you for the question, Kate. I would say that we have -- clearly, we have the newness and the seasonal storytelling that Julie might speak to and she's already done so in the prepared remarks, but we also have the new adjacencies and those start to build over time. As you know, Men's is one and still a fairly low awareness. And so we've built out that assortment further, and that's why you saw sort of 2/3 of the growth coming from those new products and will continue in '24.
Our hair is also -- will be building even further and both in distribution as well as SKUs. So there's that newness as well. And then our lip assortment, which is further expanded in the fixture itself, which is beautiful and serves the role of attracting new customers, but there's more expansion within Lip, SPF and some other things. I'm leaving Julie very little to say. But laundry as well is the next one. So Julie, you're close to it.
Julie Rosen:
So as you know, our adjacent categories, we are very excited about, and we are in various stages of our rollout of these adjacencies. And so our Men's Shop is fully rolled out to all stores. We know that Men's is attracting a younger customer and a slightly more diverse customer and we have added some extra marketing here. Maybe you saw our pop-up shops or our influencers and that is really helping to fuel growth as well. Men's is also being fueled by some of the new products, some new merchandising that we added this past year in grooming and an antiperspirant deodorant. So that is the business that's probably the most furthest along from an adjacency.
Laundry, we have now rolled out to about 200 stores. And by the middle of the year, we will be in half the fleet. The feedback has been incredibly positive from our customers. They know that laundry detergent is a great way and just another way for them to layer their favorite scents into their daily routine. And while it's a little early to speculate on the size of the business, we are very excited about the opportunity because the laundry market is a $14 billion market. As Gina mentioned, we have finished the rollout of fragrant hair care to all stores this spring. And this is another line that we have learned that is attracting new customers to Bath & Body Works. 14% of fragrant hair care customers are new to our brand. Again, not ready quite yet to comment on the size of the prize, but we are very confident in our positioning with our fragrance first leadership as our point of differentiation. And then finally, we have our Lip. So we are consistently looking to get new and also younger customers into the brand, and we are seeing that Lip is doing this as well. So we've been upgrading and expanding and relaunching our in-store assortment as well as our visual presentation, and this will be in all stores by Q3. So these categories are small, but they're growing and like all launches at Bath & Body Works. We test, we optimize, we roll. So you will see us testing a lot of different things this year, whether it be around pricing, whether it be around merchandising or marketing. But out of the gate, we are excited about these new lines.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about the merchandise margin, which accelerated up 290 basis points, and it sounds like you're expecting some continued improvement in merchandise margin. Can you talk about the drivers and when you think about the test of pricing and level of promotions, how should we think about it differently this year as compared to last year? And does it differ by category?
Gina Boswell:
Eva, would you start with that question?
Eva Boratto:
Sure. Dana, overall, I think we're really pleased with the progress that we've made improving our margins the last couple of -- the last several quarters. And as you look at the outlook for the year, merchandise margin, we expect to expand about 50 basis points. And that does reflect continued deflation as well as the cost reduction initiative. Now we will continue to reinvest and restage and reformulation. We're annualizing the changes that we made to Body Care and soaps this year. So that will continue to impact us.
Now offsetting that for the year, we continue to have B&O deleverage given our real estate investment. But we're really pleased with our progress here on merchandise margin. And I would just note as you look at our first quarter guidance, our merchandise margin is pretty comparable to what we were able to deliver in 2019, and that's despite costs continuing to be inflated since the pandemic.
Gina Boswell:
And one extra thing I would add is that even with some of these new adjacencies so forth and Julie spoke to, the margin profile of those over time improves as the product scales post-launch also contributing in bigger ways to the merch margin.
Operator:
Our next question is from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Really, nice job in the quarter. So great to hear about the Men's strength. Sorry if I missed it. Did you say how large Men's is. Maybe Julie gave the point you were bringing up with the other adjacencies or the new products and then where it goes in the mid- to long term. .
And then Eva, just how much was the investment in the product reformulations, the packaging innovation? Just how should we think about that going forward? How should we think about transport and logistics expense going forward? And then what do we need at this point to leverage buying and occupancy? Does that get better as you move off mall? So is the rent better off mall or not necessarily given which malls you're exiting from?
Gina Boswell:
Thanks, Simeon. Great to hear from you. I would say on Men's, we don't report the exact, but it is a single-digit percent of our sales, so still relatively small with lots of headroom with respect to the large addressable market of $12 billion. And as I said and Julie commented as well, ample distribution as well as new SKUs. As it relates to the B&O leverage and reformulation, I will ask Eva to please comment on that.
Eva Boratto:
Sure, Simeon. On the B&O leverage, I would say it would take about 2% to 3% of sales growth to leverage B&O. And you're right, moving from mall to off-mall is a benefit for us. On the mix and the investment levels in reformulation, first we'll always work to get paid for that reformulation and drive our AURs. As you think about '23 to '24, the impact on margin of the reformulation is less than it was in '23, as we're annualizing the impacts and our investments aren't as great in '23 -- in 24, excuse me.
Operator:
Our next question is from Alex Straton with Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Just a couple from me here. The first is on the first quarter sales guidance. If I look at it compared to the fourth quarter, ex the 53rd week the 53rd week, it seems like you're embedding that year-over-year sales declines worsened. So does that assume the lower January or February trend continues for the rest of the quarter? Or how do you think about what informed that?
And then the second question is just on gross margin, hitting nearly 46% this quarter, long-term guide for 45%. I'm having trouble reconciling that with the 43.5% guidance for this year, so the flat. So if you can just walk me through what's weighing on gross margin right now? That would be super helpful.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Alex. On the first quarter, Eva, if you can speak to the...
Eva Boratto:
Let me take it. Let me first speak to the high end of the guide. The high end of the guide down about 2%, right? We're assuming we continue to have a cautious consumer. It doesn't get worse. As you said, the performance trends are in line with Q4 on a comparable 13-week to 13-week basis. Good response to our product assortment and Mother's Day and introduction of partnerships.
On the low end, the low end of our guide does assume more pressure reflecting the trends that we saw coming into February, where we had weaker traffic and potentially weaker response to our assortment or our Mother's Day, but you were thinking about that right. On the margin for the -- was your question on margin for Q1 or year, Alex?
Alexandra Straton:
For the full year gross margin, please?
Eva Boratto:
So for the full year gross margin, as you can appreciate, we're annualizing a lot of the deflation benefits that we achieved throughout 2023. Our margin outlook does include 50 basis points of continued merch margin improvement, reflecting those costs annualization as well as the investments that I mentioned previously in restage reformulation. Until we get to our growth, right, B&O does cause deleverage while the dollars are up modestly, you get the deleverage. So that's the summary on gross margin.
Operator:
Our next question is from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Gina, could -- so maybe could you just walk through or help rank order the drivers that you see supporting top line improvement through the year? Any visibility to Candle category stabilization?
And Eva, on sales to turn positive in the back half, how best to think about revenue growth quarterly beyond the first quarter, down 3% at the midpoint? And is there any way to just elaborate on what you're seeing in February? I think you cited softer traffic trends that's impacting basket and conversion. Just any elaborating on that, I think, would be great.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Matt. This is a 3-part question. So I'll start and then Candle category, Julie if you can speak to that and then Eva finish it off with the second half.
I would say, overall, what -- when we put our full year outlook together, we built it building block by building block. And as was stated, there's a variety of scenarios that were considered from the low to the high end of our guidance, including things that are in our control with the execution of our initiatives, but also macro and consumer sentiment. But I think if you zoom out entirely, there really are 4 things that drive to our return to growth in the back half. First is one that you touched on that we'll talk to the normalization of candles and sanitizers moderating, so effectively seeing an easing of the market decline. The second is the growth from our core categories, and that's where some of the newness that Julie spoke to and seasonal storytelling comes through. The third is the continued rollout of our new adjacencies, and they're small. As I mentioned, even in the Men's point as a percent of our shop today, but men's, hair, lip and laundry, those build and ramp through the year based on the distribution that we're talking about, whether going from 200 stores in laundry to half the chain in fall and lip, et cetera. And then fourth, we talked about our full funnel marketing investments. We've got enhanced loyalty capabilities. We've got the personalized digital experiences. Those are driving more loyal and engaged customers. And so that's sort of the overall piece to the top line growth as it plays out throughout the year. So second question that you had was on Candle?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. Matt, so candles and sanitizers do continue to normalize at an industry level. We know customers continue to spend less time at home and their mindset continues to adjust post pandemic. At an industry level, this unit normalization from Q3 to Q4 improved and our business mirrored those same exact trends. We've also been able to hold our leading industry market share in candles and we've actually gained share in sanitizers.
And as a reminder, both candles and sanitizers remain elevated versus 2019 levels, more so than the rest of shops. And I know Eva mentioned it, but just to say it again, our guidance in the back half calls for inflection even with the normalization of Candles.
Eva Boratto:
Yes. So going back, Matt, to the back half of the year, I'll follow up on Julie's point. As we look at that inflection, we are expecting to inflect and return to growth in Q3. I would remind you that as we look at Q4 and if you look at the year, there are a number of factors that can -- that affect the outlook. And particularly in Q4, we have one less week between Thanksgiving and Christmas that we'll be hurdling for the business. So we're seeing that inflection driving toward Q3 as we expand the adjacencies and roll out our programs.
On February, I'll just comment -- traffic was pressured coming into February. Our initial floor set that we had in the year didn't perform as we wanted it to, and we quickly pivoted and adjusted our approach and brought some newness and our Tropidelic new fragrance to the front of the store.
Operator:
Our next question is from Olivia Tong with Raymond James.
Olivia Tong Cheang:
I wanted to ask you about your pricing plans for the year? And how much of that pricing increase for the full year is new pricing and promo efficiency improvements, which you expect to build that have yet to be implemented versus actions that have already been taken? And then if you could just talk about the balance between achieving AUR improvement with what sounds like a bigger than expected softness in January that has continued into February. So can you talk about your promo levels versus your peers and how to think about the risk that you can hold on to those improvements that you were able to achieve in Q4?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Olivia. Well, to start, our assumptions on AUR for the first quarter were flat and moderate for the full year. In terms of new price actions that we've taken, Julie might want to speak to. I mean, it's a very -- it's a very agile model where we sort of look at those everyday deals and bundles and so forth. I think the last part of your question, I would ask Eva to chime in on. And I'm trying to remember exactly, do you have that?
Eva Boratto:
Sure, sure. As you think about the pricing overall, I'd remind you, we've said this a few times, right? on the mix we are reducing our reliance on direct mail. We're increasing leaning into loyalty and more personalization. So there are all factors that give us the confidence that we can have modest increases for the year. In terms of the overall competitive landscape, it is a competitive landscape. And our agile model and our product assortment enables us to respond while we're -- balance both margin and top line volume.
Julie Rosen:
So I just would add one more or a couple more things. In 2023, we raised a lot of our prices. We raised for all of the forms that we invested in, we raised at least $1. We added all endings on all products $0.95. We took our Wallflowers from 5 for $20 to 5 for $27, we did soaps 5 for $20, 5 for $27. So when I say we have an agile testing model, every single weekend, we're testing alternative pricing to figure out where we can garner more AUR. We don't plan for this business to be more promotional over time. So I want to make sure that we're all clear on that.
We believe that our products are affordable luxuries, we believe that they're meant to be used daily and replenished often. And we know that our customer loves to celebrate seasons, holidays, fragrances and loves newness. And we can do this in a way that nobody else can. We can tell these transportive emotional stories. So I believe it's the celebrations and the newness along with the promo that's going to drive traffic to our stores. Again, as I keep saying, we use that operating model, right? to increase or decrease promotion. So promotions will be a traffic driver for our business, but we're hoping by sharpening our approach with the right technology in place. We're going to leverage some data and analytics, and we'll deliver more personalized targeted messages, which hopefully will increase trips and spends and engagement while reducing reliance on broad-based promos.
Operator:
Our next question is from Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
I just wanted to clarify on February, you said that I think traffic was pressured coming into February. Can you talk about February specifically what you saw and if there's any change from beginning of the month to the end of the month? And then just separate on the SG&A line in 4Q, what came in above and below plan? What drove that? And can you talk about the opportunity to leverage SG&A and F '24 if sales perform above your expectations?
Eva Boratto:
Thanks for the question. This is Eva. On the SG&A, as I referenced, we had a severance charge of about $10 million associated with our cost reduction initiatives. Also sales outperformed. So we had additional costs related to -- related to that. Could you repeat your other question?
Paul Lejuez:
February traffic.
Eva Boratto:
February traffic. Thank you. So overall, as I said, we came into February, traffic was pressured. We referenced that our initial floor set didn't perform to our expectations. We adjusted that, performance has improved during the month. It's reflected in our outlook and the guidance range that we provided.
Paul Lejuez:
Was that performance improved during the month driven by promotions. Is that the message?
Eva Boratto:
No, I apologize. That was not my message. Overall, we changed our floor set and promotions is always part of our strategy, but we're adapting and adjusting to our customers.
Gina Boswell:
With the guidance of flat AUR in the first quarter. I think we have time for one more question, please.
Operator:
Our last question is from Adrienne Yih with Barclays.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Very nice end of the year. So congrats on the fourth quarter. Gina and/or Julie, can you talk about the elevation strategy? I've seen it coming through, particularly in the candle packaging, which categories are sort of optimal for price elevation or premiumization and is that through packaging? Is it through innovation, formulations, et cetera? And then the carry on to that is, does that acquire. When you do that, do you see sort of an elevation in age or demographic or any statistics associated with that?
Gina Boswell:
As it relates to the categories, overall, we sort of look at the masstige sort of as the -- as the pricing sort of segment that we operate in and many of those categories, I mean, if you just think about the beautiful laundry package that we have and what that connotes and even the price value proposition there being sort of in that sweet spot of masstige. But you're right, there are other things like the beveling of some of the products. And then the reformulations as well, which is an important elevation from the customer's mindset.
In terms of -- so I would say overall, the categories and Julie will chime in, I'm sure -- but overall, they all have opportunities to elevate, not necessarily raise entirely, right, because we want to make sure we always meet the mindset of our customers and increase their usage. We are a highly replenishable business. So we want to make sure of that and get the trial that we need. But I would say that in terms of what we're seeing by cohort, which I think was the other part of your question, we are actually not seeing any discernible changes with respect to income or age based on all the things that we've seen. And we're not seeing trade down in our assortment as well.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. And I think from an elevation perspective, just to follow up, we are seeing nice response from our neutral collection, both across soaps and candles, which are very elevated products. My design and merchandising teams do an excellent job scanning the market and the world, looking for trends to sort of see what is going on. I think one of the things that we try to hit on in our store is there are at times multiple mindsets that the customer is having and we try to hit on all of those.
So if you look at Men's, we upgraded the packaging on our shower gels, we just relaunched our Champagne Toast in new faceted bottles. So we're constantly looking, but it is about a balance. We do have some customers that still like some of those more brightly colored fun, but we are seeing elevation as in pretty products and as in neutral, really responding with customers. And because we have an agile model, we're able to go out and react and ensure we have enough of that.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Julie, just feedback-wise, the neutrals look very sophisticated and lovely. So congrats on that. Best of luck.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you. I'll pass that on to the team. So that concludes our call. I want to thank you for joining today's call. Over to you, Mike.
Michael McGuire:
So a replay will be available for 90 days on our website. Thanks again for your interest in Bath & Body Works. If anybody has any questions, contact us here. Thanks.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference. You may disconnect your lines at this time. Thank you for your participation.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Paul, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Third Quarter 2023 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions].
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Heather Hollander, Vice President, Investor Relations at Bath & Body Works. Heather, you may begin.
Heather Hollander:
Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works Third Quarter 2023 Earnings Conference Call. Today's call may contain forward-looking statements related to future events and expectations. Please refer to this morning's press release and the risk factors in Bath & Body Works' 2022 Form 10-K for factors that could cause the actual results to differ materially from these forward-looking statements.
Today's call contains certain non-GAAP financial measures. Please refer to this morning's press release and supplemental materials for important disclosures regarding such measures, including reconciliations to the most comparable GAAP financial measure. Joining me on the call today are Gina Boswell, Chief Executive Officer; Julie Rosen, President Retail; and Eva Boratto, Chief Financial Officer. I'll now turn the call over to Gina.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Heather, and good morning, everyone. Thank you for joining us today. I'll start this morning with a review of our third quarter results, then discuss our view of the fourth quarter, provide some initial perspectives on fiscal year 2024 and discuss the progress our team has made in executing our strategy. Before we begin, I'd like to thank our teams who continue to deliver on our initiatives and commitments and control what we can control.
Now for the results. Third quarter net sales were in line with the higher end of our expectations, declining 2.6% compared to the prior year and representing 100 basis points of sequential improvement versus the second quarter. The team delivered strong merchandise margin improvement and continued benefits from our cost optimization initiatives. In fact, our year-over-year merchandise margin rate increased 200 basis points in the third quarter and we generated flat AURs or average unit retail in line with our plan. From a category perspective, in the third quarter, sales of soaps and wallflowers increased versus the prior year. Body Care sales were flat and candles and sanitizers declined as expected. While we continue to see post-pandemic normalization in candles and sanitizers, we held unit share in candles and gained unit share in sanitizers year-to-date. Throughout the third quarter, we continue to demonstrate the strength of our seasonal merchandising and exceptional innovation capabilities. We were pleased with our Halloween results, delivering a 5% sales increase over last year's event. Our team remains focused on delivering newness with elevated single fragrance launches, such as Luminous. Our men's business continued to outperform and customers responded positively to the addition of men's grooming to our product line. We're leaning into this growth opportunity with new marketing programs to drive increased awareness and customer acquisition. Consistent with the trend of fragrance from head to toe, customers responded well to our launch of fragrance hair care, now in approximately 30% of our U.S. stores. Finally, the limited launches of Laundry and our new expanded lip collection also performed well, which Julie will discuss in a moment. Turning to sales. Year-over-year trends improved at the beginning of the quarter, with roughly flat sales in August, driven by strong Halloween performance. Sales then softened in September and October as the macroeconomic environment pressured consumer demand, and we lapped the national launch of our loyalty program last year. Although we experienced positive traffic growth overall for the quarter, traffic softened in September, in line with mall and off-mall traffic. Additionally, as expected, we continue to see the customer carefully managing their spending, which pressured basket size and conversion. Based on what we are seeing with the cautious consumer and continued market declines in 2 of our categories, we anticipate a continuation of softer top line trends in the fourth quarter and we are lowering our top line guidance for the full year. We are also raising the midpoint of our diluted earnings per share guidance to reflect merchandise margin outperformance and the benefits of our capital deployment in the third quarter. Eva will provide more details in a moment. I also want to take the opportunity to provide some early views on 2024. We continue to invest and focus on building capabilities to better serve our customer and drive profitable growth. Keeping in mind where we are in the implementation process for our strategic initiatives, as well as the current macro environment and continued industry level category pressure, we see a path to positive sales growth in the second half of 2024. Of course, we'll continue to focus on driving efficiency in our business throughout 2024 as well. Looking out longer term, as we execute our strategy and scale initial benefits from all the great work the team is doing, we are increasingly confident in our ability to achieve our sales and operating margin targets.
Turning now to some of the progress we're making. We continue to focus on our 5 key growth drivers:
first, elevating the brand through innovation and upgrades; second, extending our reach through new category adjacencies and international growth; third, deepening customer engagement through our loyalty program, enhanced technology and more personalization; fourth, enabling a seamless omnichannel experience; and finally, enhancing operational excellence to drive efficiency.
Julie will speak to our progress in brand elevation and extending our reach. But first, I'd like to expand on the other 3. As we work to better engage with our customer, we have a tremendous opportunity to leverage sharper tools and more targeted marketing to attract new customers and increase spend and share of wallet with our existing customers. We are building technology capabilities to implement a more personalized targeted approach to marketing and promotions rooted in data analytics and customer segmentation. Through this work, we plan to acquire new customers and increased spend by incenting trial of new products, increasing cross-channel and cross-category shopping, growing basket size and driving incremental trips. This year, we've also increased our testing capacity to allow for greater agility. With our technology separation from Victoria's Secret substantially complete, we began testing personalized e-mails in the third quarter, which allowed us to adjust e-mail timing and offers to meet the customer mindset while reducing reliance on broad-based promotions such as direct mail. As we sharpen our approach to promotions and customized offers to the individual customer, we plan to drive incremental sales at a higher margin. For example, in the third quarter, we shifted a portion of our direct mail spend toward new customer acquisition via digital marketing channels, and we're already seeing positive results. Our loyalty program is another critical tool for engaging with our customers and meeting them where they are. In August, we anniversaried the national launch of our loyalty program. Since the launch, we've had industry-leading enrollment speed. We have nearly 41 million members and loyalty sales represent approximately 3/4 of our U.S. sales since the national launch. Though our speed of enrollment has been impressive, and we continue to grow our loyalty member base we are still only in the early stages of leveraging the program and driving member engagement. We increased engagement this quarter by offering our first loyalty member appreciation days with early access to exclusive shopping events and offers and testing loyalty accelerators, starting with a double point stay designed to move customers closer to reward redemption, which drives higher customer value. As we test more loyalty benefits in the future, such as tiering and flexible rewards, we are confident in our ability to deepen customer engagement and increase both sales and merchandise margins. Next, we are enabling a seamless omnichannel experience. Though we have a strong profitable digital business, we have a significant opportunity to drive future growth by moving from a largely transactional website and app to more personalized experiential and integrated platforms. By adding personalized landing pages, immersive content and product recommendations, we plan to drive higher sales, more discovery and larger baskets. In the third quarter, we added personalized product recommendations based on shopping behavior and a customized header to welcome recognized users by name and highlight their loyalty account balances. We also implemented a customer retention pilot powered by machine learning, which drove 7% greater retention for the targeted audience. To target customers who were inactive or who had abandoned their carts we tested new retention and win-back offers, which increased sales. Importantly, beauty and personal care customers value a seamless omnichannel experience by reducing friction throughout the customer journey from browse to shop to purchase and offering convenient options like Buy Online Pickup In Store or BOPIS, as well as Instacart and Buy Now Pay Later, we can convert more single-channel customers to dual-channel customers, which, on average, increases spend threefold. BOPIS orders increased approximately 50% in the third quarter versus last year as customers continue to opt for convenience. When picking up their order, approximately 30% of BOPIS customers made an additional purchase in store, a testament to the power of the omnichannel model. This quarter, we also added social proofing matches on our website highlighting trending and best-selling products as well as those products with limited supply. Given our customers' strong desire to obtain their preferred fragrances, we knew that alerting them to decreasing availability would incent them to lock in a purchase. Having implemented these initiatives to improve our omnichannel experience, digital conversion inclusive of BOPIS, increased 4% in the third quarter versus the second quarter. Finally, we are enhancing operational excellence and efficiency through $200 million of planned annual cost savings across the company. We are on track to deliver approximately $150 million of those savings in 2023, and Eva will share additional details in a moment. As I touched on earlier, the customer has been cautious in managing their spending amidst macroeconomic pressure, but we are still driving positive traffic and customers are responding to newness, innovation and our compelling seasonal events. We are taking action to deliver innovation and build the capabilities that will allow us to drive long-term profitable growth, even amidst external pressures. As we enter the critical holiday season, we are well positioned with a clean inventory position, a compelling product assortment, gifts at a variety of price points, a transportive store experience and stores that are staffed and ready to serve and an omnichannel model that allows customers to shop whenever and however they want. Bath & Body Works has a strong foundation with leading market share, top brand awareness and a competitive advantage in our vertically integrated supply chain, which allows us to respond quickly to changing trends. We have a healthy balance sheet, strong free cash flow generation and balanced capital allocation plans. Despite what remains a challenging macroeconomic environment, the initial results we're seeing from the implementation of our strategic initiatives gives us even more confidence in our ability to reach our $10 billion sales target and deliver industry-leading operating income margins of 20% over time. I'd like to conclude by saying a big thank you to our outstanding partners and teams, especially our store and distribution center associates during this busy holiday season. They do a terrific job delivering a great experience to our customers and dedicating themselves to executing on our strategic initiatives. With that, I'll turn the call over to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Gina. I'd like to go a level deeper in reviewing the results and trends in the third quarter and provide an update on the progress we're making in elevating our brand and extending our reach to accelerate growth. As Gina mentioned, we started the third quarter with a strong Halloween with event sales increasing 5% over last year's event. We positioned our Halloween assortment at the front of our stores for the first time to give it additional prominence. We also expanded customer favorites like Vampire Blood into more categories and offered new elevated accessories that met the customer mindset.
Notably, our higher-priced premium accessories such as the carriage luminary priced at $99.95 and the wallflower carriage heater priced at $39.95 were especially popular and sold out quickly. The third quarter is also the time of the year when customers turn to us for our iconic fall fragrances, which are always a favorite. The customer responded well to top fragrances such as Leaves and Pumpkin Pecan Waffles and Sweater Weather in multiple forms and packaging. Turning to category performance. Soaps including our new formulation made without paraben, sulfate or dye, performed well in the third quarter, posting low single-digit growth. Additionally, we rolled out foaming hand soap refills and recyclable paper cartons to all U.S. stores in July, allowing customers to conveniently refill and reuse their soap containers. Body Care sales were flat for the quarter. The category continues to be supported by growth in fine fragrance mist as well as our Men's business, which posted a high single-digit sales increase this quarter and remains 1 of our fastest-growing product lines as we add new forms and merchandising ideas. We launched men's grooming last quarter, adding face and beard before Father's Day, followed by hair and shave in September. The new products have performed well with a positive customer response, as Gina noted. We continue to be very excited about the growth of our men's business as it is introducing new customers to our brand and attracting the attention of younger customers. We're also infusing newness into the collection with our latest single fragrance launch, Woodlands. Despite strong year-to-date growth, our men's offering has relatively low awareness amongst consumers we see a significant opportunity to drive increased awareness and additional growth in this $12 billion market, and we have multiple marketing campaigns planned to showcase our compelling assortment and acquire new customers. Wallflowers also performed well in the third quarter, posting low single-digit growth driven by strong fall fragrance selling and increased AUR. Candles and sanitizers both declined versus last year, as expected, driven by continued industry-wide post-pandemic normalization trends. We remain a market leader in both candles and sanitizers. And we have held unit sharing candles and gained unit share and sanitizers year-to-date even as the categories experienced pressure at the industry level. Turning to our strategic initiatives. I'd like to provide some detail on how we're making progress in elevating our brand and extending our reach to accelerate growth. This quarter, we continue to deliver innovation and elevation in product and merchandising. For our latest single fragrance product, Luminous, we positioned the launch at the front of the shop in October. This was an intentional earlier move in the calendar to meet the customer mindset and better align with the industry. Luminous has elevated bold, gift worthy packaging perfect for the holiday season. As we work to extend our reach we're leveraging our core strengths and fragrance and innovation to expand into adjacent categories, including fragrance laundry, lip and hair care. In the third quarter, we had a limited launch of our laundry line in many of our best-selling fragrances across 10 stores and online. Laundry has attracted new customers to the brand and the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive with customers noting that our laundry detergent is an exciting new way to add another layer of their favorite sent to their daily routine. We are testing and optimizing the product to prepare for expansion next spring. Lip products have attracted new younger customers to our brand and represents an opportunity to expand our customer base. To capture this opportunity, we have relaunched our in-store assortment and the visual presentation of our lip products across a limited number of stores. The new ritual based assortment and presentation posted triple-digit sales lift compared to our previous lip offering, and we plan to complete the rollout of this fixture and expanded assortment to all North American stores by the fall of 2024. Additionally, our fragrance hair care line now in 560 stores continues to exceed our expectations. We plan to complete the North American rollout in the spring of 2024. We're particularly excited about this line's ability to attract a new customer to Bath & Body Works, considering that 14% of fragrance hair care customers are new to our brand. We're also committed to extending our reach internationally and continue to explore opportunities to build on the success of our asset-light profitable franchise model. As we look ahead to the fourth quarter, this is always an exciting time of the year, and we have a mix of returning holiday favorites and new giftable offerings. Our theme for the holiday season is storybook, the concept is threaded throughout the stores and online channels, providing a magical and sensory fill journey for customers. As an affordable luxury brand, we have gifts at all price points. As we further expand our loyalty program and introduce compelling new product assortments, we're confident we will continue to deepen our relationships with our existing customers and attract new customers to our brand. In closing, I'd like to thank our teams for delivering an outstanding experience to our customers and for their work to position us well for the upcoming holiday season. And with that, I'll turn it over to Eva.
Eva Boratto:
Thank you, Julie, and good morning, everyone. Today, I'll start by reviewing our third quarter financial results, then I'll provide an overview of our fourth quarter and fiscal year 2023 guidance as well as some initial perspective on 2024. Starting with third quarter results. We reported adjusted diluted earnings per share of $0.48 exceeding our guidance of $0.30 to $0.40 per diluted share. Our adjusted results exclude the $12 million pretax gain on the early extinguishment of debt associated with the repurchases in the third quarter. We are pleased with our ability to leverage both gross profit and SG&A this quarter. EPS also benefited from interest expense favorability associated with the repurchase and retirement of debt.
Net sales for the third quarter were $1.6 billion, in line with the high end of our expectations. The year-over-year decline of 2.6% was driven by a decrease in both average dollar sale and transactions. AURs were flat in the quarter as expected. In U.S. and Canadian stores, third quarter net sales totaled $1.2 billion, a decrease of approximately 1% versus the prior year. Third quarter direct net sales were $317 million, a decrease of 8% compared to last year. Adjusted for BOPIS, direct demand decreased 5% in the third quarter. As a reminder, BOPIS sales are recognized as store sales, and we completed the BOPIS rollout to U.S. stores in the first quarter of 2023. International net sales were $77 million and declined 5% versus last year. On a year-to-date basis, international net sales increased 1%. As a reminder, there are 2 components to our international net sales. Royalties collected from franchise retail sales and wholesale revenue generated by the product we sell to our franchise partners. Our total international system-wide retail sales again posted double-digit growth in the third quarter. However, wholesale revenue declined as our partners manage their inventory level. Also, since the conflicts began in the Middle East in October, sales for certain franchise partners have been pressured. We continue to monitor the events and consumer sentiment in the region and support our partners accordingly. Third quarter gross profit rate increased 140 basis points compared to prior year, a sequential improvement of 230 basis points from second quarter. This represents our first gross profit rate expansion in 9 quarters. Merchandise margin rate improved 200 basis points year-over-year, driven by $40 million of deflation benefits, lower product costs and reduced transportation costs. The margin expansion was partially offset by continued investments in product formulation and packaging innovation. Improvement in merchandise margin were also partially offset by buying and occupancy expense deleverage, primarily due to lower sales and increased occupancy expense from new store growth. Total third quarter SG&A leveraged by 20 basis points versus last year, and represented a sequential improvement of 220 basis points from the second quarter. SG&A leverage was driven by the benefits of our cost optimization initiative, as well as approximately $10 million of marketing and technology investments shifting to the fourth quarter. Our cost optimization work across both gross profit and SG&A delivered benefits of approximately $45 million in the quarter. Taking all of this into consideration, third quarter total operating income was $221 million or 14.1% of net sales. Turning to the balance sheet. We repurchased $174 million senior notes principal for $161 million in the quarter. We remain disciplined with inventory management and ended third quarter with total inventory dollars down 5% compared to last year. Heading into the holiday season, our inventory levels are well positioned. Now turning to real estate. Our overall portfolio, the majority of which is off-mall, remains very healthy with 99% of the fleet profitable and store significantly outperforming pre-pandemic levels. We made additional progress increasing our off-mall penetration opening 25 new off-mall North American stores and permanently closing 6 mall stores in the quarter. And internationally, our partners opened 16 stores in the third quarter, ending the quarter with 458 stores. Moving to our financial guidance. We are providing 2023 guidance with comparisons to 2022. As a reminder, fiscal 2023 includes a 53rd week, so the fourth quarter of fiscal 2023 will consist of 14 weeks. The impact of the 53rd week reflected in our guidance is estimated at approximately $85 million of sales and $0.05 of earnings per diluted share. And our guidance excludes the impact of any future debt or share repurchase activity. Now for the fourth quarter, we expect sales to decline 1% to 5%, reflecting continued soft consumer spending and post-pandemic category normalization across the industry. The company is very adept at quickly reading and reacting and we will leverage our vertically integrated supply chain and outstanding agility to chase demand and maximize sales. We remained focused on enhancing our operational excellence and efficiency and plan to deliver approximately $50 million in cost savings in the fourth quarter. Approximately 35% of the savings are related to reduced transportation expense with the remainder coming from other elements of our program, including efficiency in store labor and selling productivity as we better align staffing hours to traffic, reduced expense as we optimize our call center. Home office expense efficiency and decrease indirect spend. Fourth quarter gross profit rate is expected to be approximately 44% and as we continue to expect about 100 basis points of year-over-year merchandise margin rate improvement. Our fourth quarter includes approximately $55 million of deflation benefit as well as efficiencies produced by our cost optimization work. We anticipate these benefits will be partially offset by investments in formulation and packaging upgrades to reinforce our competitive position. We expect roughly flat buying and occupancy expense as a percent of sales in the fourth quarter as we realize the benefits of our new direct-to-consumer fulfillment center ramping. Our fourth quarter guidance assumes an SG&A rate of approximately 22% with deleverage driven by higher marketing spending as we activate new programs to drive customer acquisition and technology investment to drive future growth. As a reminder, approximately $10 million of marketing and technology spending shifted from the third quarter to the fourth quarter. We expect nonoperating expense of approximately $75 million, reflecting interest expense favorability from debt repurchases through the end of the third quarter. We are forecasting an effective tax rate of approximately 26% and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 228 million. For the fourth quarter, our earnings per diluted share guidance is $1.70 to $1.90. Turning to our full year outlook. I'll highlight the revision to our previous guidance. We are now forecasting sales declines of 2.5% to 4% versus prior year. We now expect full year adjusted net non-operating expense of approximately $290 million and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 229 million. We are revising our adjusted earnings per diluted share guidance for fiscal year 2023 and to $2.90 to $3.10 increasing the midpoint of our guidance. Additionally, we anticipate ending the year with slightly elevated inventory levels compared to the prior year as we prepare to expand new product launches to additional stores. We continue to expect free cash flow of $675 million to $725 million in fiscal year 2023. Looking at capital allocation, our first priority is investing in the business to drive profitable growth. We are also committed to returning excess cash to shareholders. In the first 9 months of the year, we paid $137 million in dividends and plan to continue paying an annual dividend of $0.80 per share with an intention to increase the dividend over time as earnings increase. In the third quarter, we repurchased 1.4 million shares for $50 million in the open market. In addition to returning cash to shareholders, we are committed to returning to our target leverage ratio of approximately 2.5x adjusted gross debt to EBITDA over time. We ended fiscal 2022 with a leverage ratio of 3.1x. And through the third quarter of this year, we have repurchased $373 million of principal amount of our senior notes in the open market. We will continue to take a balanced approach to capital allocation, considering options such as additional debt and share repurchases. Now I'd like to take a moment to build on Gina's earlier comments regarding our initial perspective on fiscal 2024. We expect that the softer macroeconomic backdrop and category normalization trend will continue into the year. At the same time, we are building capabilities and launching products designed to drive customer acquisition, sales growth and operating income margin expansion, even amidst modest macroeconomic pressure and category normalization. As you know, we began testing many of these strategic initiatives in the third quarter, and we plan to scale them through the first half of the year. Our personalized marketing and loyalty programs will build through the year which we expect will drive improvement in customer retention and acquisition. We also plan to drive growth through our product adjacencies, including building greater awareness of our men's line and extending the rollout of fragrance, hair care, laundry and lip. Fragrance is top of mind for customers, and we are leaning into our position as a fragrance market leader with this portfolio expansion. As these capabilities are fully implemented and benefits built throughout 2024 we see a path to positive sales growth in the second half of the year. We also expect operating income margin to be supported by continued input cost deflation and the benefits of our cost optimization work. In conclusion, we remain focused on building capabilities to drive future growth successfully expanding our product offering, delivering efficiencies in the business and managing through a dynamic environment with agility. We are well positioned as we approach the upcoming holiday and look forward to serving our customers during this important season. At this time, we'd be happy to take your questions, and I'll turn it over to Heather for Q&A.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Eva. [Operator Instructions]. We'll now move to the Q&A session. Operator?
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question is from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Nice quarter. So how are you guys thinking about the time line for the post-pandemic candle normalization? Because that's an interesting point. So just any thought on how close we are to that healthy reset. And then for my follow-up if I can, just a really nice job on the gross margins, maybe run through a bit more why the fourth quarter gross margin wouldn't see a similar or even a higher benefit just given increasing deflation benefits, better expected B&O, the extra week and the general trajectory you're on? So just thinking through that gross margin a bit.
Gina Boswell:
Simeon, it's Gina. Thank you for the question. I would like to first go to Julie to talk about the category normalization reset, and then we will flip to Eva for the gross margin benefits in the fourth quarter.
Julie Rosen:
Simeon, as far as the candle normalization, I really cannot circle a date on the calendar for you. And in fact, no one can. That being said, I just want you to know that we are innovating in these categories. We are still the market leader as we hold our dominant market share in candles and we gained market share in sanitizers year-to-date. And we are also working very hard to diversify our sales mix.
Eva Boratto:
Great. So now we'll take the gross margin question, Simeon. And we are quite pleased with our continued progress in delivering strong and improving gross margins. A couple of things that I'll highlight, in the fourth quarter, we expect about $55 million of deflation to benefit our merchandise margin rate, and we'll continue to invest in our formulation and packaging upgrades. Overall, we continue to expect merchandise margin to expand about 100 basis points, and we expect to have flat AURs in the quarter.
On a positive, in the fourth quarter, we're expecting roughly flat buying and occupancy as we scale our new customer fulfillment center and that ramp. And recognizing we're not improving as much as third quarter. As you can appreciate, the fourth quarter is a big quarter for us. There's a lot of volatility given the holiday season, and we'll continue to pull on all the levers we can to drive our gross margins.
Operator:
Our next question is from Alex Straton with Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Perfect. I wanted to start with just the sales outlook for next year. I know you guys have had a couple of years of post-COVID reversion. You're talking about that back half timeline to returning to growth. So can we just go through kind of what gives you confidence in that happening at that time period? Or what's underpinning that?
And then my second question is just on the long-term EBIT margin target. You provided that nice bridge earlier this year on the 2019 to 2022 dynamics. I'm wondering if you can kind of walk us through where we're at this year and then kind of the puts and takes to get back to that 20% over time. And if you have a timeline.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Alex, for the question. I will be happy to take the first part about the sales inflection and then ask Eva to give color on the long-term sort of EBIT margins. As you know, and we commented in our remarks, we are facing softer consumer trends. So in September, we saw the traffic pressure for the first time this year as the macro environment impacted our customer. And while October traffic was positive, the growth was lower than what we had seen year-to-date through August. So we have softer positive traffic. So through the year, we've seen consistently that the customer has been carefully managing their spending and that has pressured basket size and conversion.
And then as Julie just commented, we continue to have the industry level category normalization that impacts our candles and sanitizers business. So we do expect those dynamics to continue into 2024. But at the same time, you asked about the confidence level about when that would inflect and while we can't circle a date either, we're building capabilities, and we're launching products that are designed to drive the customer acquisition and the sales growth as well as the operating income margin expansion, even amidst that modest macro pressure and category normalization that we could expect. As you know, we began testing many of the strategic initiatives in the third quarter once we completed our separation from Victoria's Secret 11 weeks ago, and we're very pleased with what we see. We expect those will drive improvements over time and build and compound in customer retention and acquisition. We also plan to drive growth through those product adjacencies, including building greater awareness, as Julie mentioned, on our men's line, doing a lot of marketing work there as well and extending the rollout of our fragrance, hair care, laundry and lip collections. So we're quite encouraged by the early benefits we're seeing in test and early stage deployment and that gives us confidence in the opportunity ahead. So once those capabilities are fully implemented and we see those benefits build, we see a path to positive sales growth in the second half of '24. And then over to you, Eva.
Eva Boratto:
Great. Thanks, Gina. So we remain very focused on driving towards that 20% OI target, operating income ratio with gross profit at 45% and SG&A at 25% leverage. Ultimately, the capabilities that Gina spoke about and the product adjacencies are expected to drive both top and bottom line growth. As you think about our cost reduction initiative, we remain on track to deliver our $200 million annually, and we remain focused on finding additional efficiencies in the business to both drive those improvements as well as fuel investments for growth. So we will continue to focus on all of the levers we can to get to those targets.
Operator:
Our next question is from Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
I'm sure you have a range of outcomes as you think about 2024 top line. You mentioned potential inflection in the second half. I'm curious how confident you are in achieving EBIT margin expansion in '24 across those range of top line outcomes. And if you could, if there's anything that we should keep in mind in terms of the major tailwinds in terms of basis points, would love to hear that from you. And I'm curious also if you could just comment on what you're seeing quarter to date, if you could share that.
Gina Boswell:
Okay. Thank you. Thanks, Paul, for the question. First, we'll go to Eva around the margin and then come back to your question on the quarter.
Eva Boratto:
Yes. As you can appreciate, we have a pretty significant quarter ahead of us. and we're really focused on driving performance in the fourth quarter and delivering on the expectations. So we'll have more to say on specific as it relates to 2024 on our earnings call. A couple of things I will highlight what I just mentioned, but I'll mention it again. We're really confident in our ability to deliver our cost savings initiative of $200 million as we wrap into next year. And from a technology perspective, you've heard us continuously say that we expect that the spend will remain elevated to support the initiatives in the growth capabilities. But we'll certainly have more to provide as we hit our year-end earnings call.
Operator:
Our next question is from Kate McShane with Goldman Sachs.
Katharine McShane:
I wanted to ask about the investment in product formulations in the quarter. Was that for any specific product? And should the product formulation and packaging innovation investment just be considered as ongoing? Or is it at a higher level this year than maybe what we can expect for next year?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Kate, for the question. I'll be happy to take that and ask maybe Julie to chime in a bit. The product formulations that we've been doing really throughout the notable one, of course, that we've spoken about earlier this year is around our soaps, which are now free of parabens, sulfates, dyes et cetera. This is an ongoing aspect to our overall strategy about elevating the brand and the product and packaging and even some of the packaging that you saw with our most recent single-fragrance launch on Luminous, which I think depicts the fact that we're investing in the product as we need to, to make sure that we elevate and meet the customer for the innovation component of that.
Anything further, I'll ask Julie to speak about because this is an important part of our strategy going forward.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. I think from an investment perspective, we also have invested in some other formulas, we're in the process now of finishing the rollout of our shower gel, which is also in a cleaned-up formula. I will say that we also believe that we have the ability to grow our AURs over time. The brand has a very strong track record of low single-digit AUR growth, and we believe we will get back to that.
Operator:
Our next question is from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Great. So a 2-part question. Gina, I guess, first, what do you attribute to the softening in September and October? And then maybe if you take that, could you just elaborate on what you're assuming from both a macro and category level in this bridge from the front half of next year to the back. And then Eva, as we think about the balance between the continued tech investments and the cost savings, what is the fixed cost leverage point in the business? Or what sales growth do you need to leverage SG&A going forward?
Gina Boswell:
Great. Thank you. So thanks, Matt. Great to hear from you. I think, as I mentioned, in September and October, well, really, we were quite encouraged actually in August starting pretty strong with nearly flat. But then in September, we saw the traffic for the first time swing negative and then bouncing back a bit in October. We did lap the loyalty launch. But really, we also saw just pressure overall on the customer and certainly consistent pressure on the basket size as well.
So what we are seeing is that the customer is for sure, under pressure. We saw the categories continue to normalize as well. But really, most of what we're talking about for our outlook for Q4 is based on the fact that we saw softer, although positive traffic in the September, October month. So that's what we have seen and that's what we have built into our guidance going forward. And your second part of question, I'll hand to Eva.
Eva Boratto:
Sure, Matt. On the SG&A leverage, I would think about it as we need 3% to 5% growth to get that leverage going.
Gina Boswell:
And I think you had another part of your question embedded that it had to do with sort of as we turned the corner. And obviously, we have a very big quarter in front of us. So we're looking forward to talking to you more about that as we get into 2024.
Operator:
Our next question is from Gaby Carbone with Deutsche Bank.
Gabriella Carbone:
I was wondering if you can dig a little further into adjacency categories such as men's hair care and laundry. Are these categories driving new customers? Or do you view them being more additive to the basket? And then just on the laundry side, maybe how do you kind of view the addressable market there?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. Great question. Thank you, Gaby. On men's, we spoke about the fact that it's still low awareness. And while it has been growing double digit, we're leaning in to fuel that growth. So there's a marketing campaign we're undertaking right now that is meant to address the awareness piece. And so we've got an experiential tour out there. We're taking our men's shop on the road, the influencer campaign. We're inviting athletes and so forth to reach new audiences and fans. So we're quite excited about the men's opportunity. It is still a small percentage of our business today. And so that's the kind of obviously in part incremental from a customer point of view. That's on the men's side, a very big addressable market, to your point, $12 billion.
So penetrating there is very helpful as we reshape the portfolio specifically into the next year. The launch of hair has also outperformed. I mean, we have gotten a great response to our fragrance led positioning there. In the second quarter, we launched it in 560 stores, but we're going to complete the North American rollout in the spring of 2024. And while we are particularly excited because this attracts a new customer to Bath & Body Works, considering that 14% of our fragrance, hair care customers are new to our brand. So while it's too early to comment on the possible size of the business. I can tell you that we're confident in our positioning with the fragrance leadership as our point of differentiation in the category. And finally, I think as it relates to your comment on laundry. Laundry again, a very large addressable market at $14 billion. And so we're excited about the potential there. We knew that our customers wanted to experience their favorite fragrances in multiple forms and certainly, that is a differentiated factor for Bath & Body Works. And the customers have asked us for those laundry products. You may recall that we used our loyalty program to sort of canvas their ideas about what signature sense they wanted for us to offer. And in the third quarter, we did have the limited launch of laundry. The feedback is very, very positive because laundry detergent is an exciting new way to add another layer a favorite scent to the daily routine, and that includes the fragrance boosters as well. So we're testing and optimizing the product as we do to prepare for expansion next spring.
Julie Rosen:
Gina, I would just add, you mentioned it, but just to sort of reiterate. The great thing about the new categories is they definitely bring new customers and they help to build the basket. So we're very excited about rolling these out over the next year.
Operator:
Our next question is from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I was hoping you could provide some initial views on free cash flow drivers for next year. If you'd expect it to be similar to this year's $675 million to $725 million or if there are any puts and takes to that number? And then how you expect to use that cash?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Lorraine. Nice to hear from you. I will ask Eva to provide color on that.
Eva Boratto:
Great. Lorraine, I would just reiterate what you said. This company generates a significant amount of cash. There is nothing unusual this year that I would call out that would be onetime in nature. Our capital, I would expect our CapEx to be generally in line with what we've spent in the past, $300 million to $350 million. And we continue to look for opportunities to generate cash, drive growth and generate cash and work the balance sheet. So we'll have more to say on our guidance on our Q4 call, but there's nothing to draw out. I would just add, we evaluate the best ways to return capital to shareholders.
Operator:
Our next question is from Adrienne Yih with Barclays.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Yes. You have a great read and react promotional strategy, and it's been very effective seemingly throughout the year-to-date period. When we think about the average unit retail and the merchandise margin, not a lot was spoken about the product margin itself and kind of recapped around promos. So that seems to still be on the table for 2024. If you could talk about that, that would be fantastic.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Adrienne. I'll take that question and may go to Julie as well. Our view on AURs, you're absolutely right. We have a read and react approach and this quarter is a perfect example of that. So based on what we saw, we expected flat AUR, we delivered that. Our agile model allows us to flex. And so we were pleased to optimize top line and bottom line while not being more promotional than the prior year. So that's certainly how we look at it. From a product margin perspective, I don't know if there's anything further that, Julie, you wanted to comment on.
Julie Rosen:
I mean I would just say that we constantly are balancing the need to keep engagement and traffic strong with our desire to obviously increase price. And this -- to your point, our agile operating model really allows us to increase or decrease our promotional levels in a meaningful way. And we have a robust testing agenda that we're always testing for the best outcomes.
Eva Boratto:
And we always work on the cost side of the equation as you think about margins and we spoke to the deflations that we expect in fourth quarter as well as our cost-reduction initiatives to help drive improved margins.
Operator:
Our next question is from Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I guess just another one on promotions. I know you've been doing a lot of personalization tests. Hoping you could share a little bit more there. What's working? What are the key learnings? And is there any indication you have that the reduction in direct mail was a factor that contributed to the softening traffic and basket size trend? And I have a follow-up on margin.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. Thank you for the question, Mark. We are always testing and some of the things that we talked about in our agile model on AURs, I think, speaks to that. The test that we have that I alluded to are some of the things we're doing from a loyalty perspective, we're seeing lots of data that suggest that when we customize offers and when we provide triggers and things, we can actually use the data and insights from the loyalty to better sharpen and optimize.
But to your specific question on direct mail, it did not. We think that it's offsetting with loyalty finally, frankly. And so we don't expect that, that was going to be a driver on our September traffic.
Eva Boratto:
And Gina, if I could just add one thing. As you think about our loyalty program, if we move a customer from redeeming 1 reward to more than 2 in a year, they more than double their spending in the store. So there's a tremendous amount of opportunity ahead of us as we test and learn as Gina said to drive value.
Gina Boswell:
Yes. I should say the loyalty platform is going to be today, for sure, with all the enrollment speed. But as we push engagement even further levering the tools that we've just been implementing, frankly, in the last 11 weeks. We see the spend, the engagement, the retention of the trips being a nice way to address the promo optimization as well. So you're absolutely right. Thank you, Eva for the comments on what redemption truly does to drive customer annual spend.
Mark Altschwager:
Very helpful. And just following up on gross margin. You're guiding Q4 buying and occupancy leverage flat, and that's with sales down, I guess, 1% to 5%. Do you expect continued efficiencies there next year? Or how should we be thinking about the leverage point on buying and occupancy for 2024?
Julie Rosen:
Thank you. Mark, for the second part of that question. I think we do have a big quarter ahead of us. So we're not really speaking specifically to '24, but I'm not sure on B&O if there's anything you'd like to add Eva.
Eva Boratto:
No. No. Mark, we're pleased that we're roughly flat in the fourth quarter. Obviously, it's our largest sales quarter. And from a cost perspective, scaling that new customer fulfillment center, of course, helps with the leverage, and we'll have more specifics as we head into next year.
Gina Boswell:
Thanks, Mark. Operator, I think we have time for 1 more question.
Operator:
And our last question is from Dana Telsey with the Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about the performance in the third quarter, the off-mall locations versus on-mall, was there any difference in terms of cadence or what you saw there. And then Julie, as you think about the new launches that you have and the new product assortment, any thoughts on 2024 and what the launches will look like? And the launches that you introduced this year, how are prices would you say on average versus your core product?
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Dana. I'll go to Julie for both of those questions on the mall as well as the new product assortment.
Julie Rosen:
Dana, nice to hear your voice. So as far as the performance of mall versus non-mall, off malls outperformed mall stores and just for a little more color performance between the regions and the income cohorts were relatively uniform. As far as the new launches, they are all at various stages of rollout. So as Gina mentioned, hair is in about 30% of our stores. We will complete the North American rollout of hair in spring. .
Laundry is in a small group of stores. We're looking to roll that. We'll let you know at the next earnings call how many stores we actually make it to with laundry. We're just in the midst of testing, optimizing and rolling as we don't want to disappoint any customers. And it's the same with lip. We have this new lip fixture and a new lip assortment that we've been testing in a small group of stores and performance has been threefold off of those fixtures. So we're very excited about that. We have a lip ritual, which is a scrub mask tins, and we are seeing both with lip and hair that they're garnering a younger customer. So we do think that '24 has an opportunity to really go after these launches, roll them out and to your point about AUR, gain the most AUR from the new categories that we possibly can.
Eva Boratto:
And Julie, I'd just like to come back to real estate a little more broadly. As you talked about off-mall. And Dana, just to remind you that our long-term strategy is focused on off-mall. Our goal is to be about 2/3 of the portfolio. And our new stores continue to perform extremely well. We have strong returns. Our payback remains about 2 years. And our real estate team has just been doing a tremendous job on an excellent real estate portfolio.
Gina Boswell:
Thanks, Dana, and thank you, everyone. That concludes today's call. I want to thank you for joining us and extend our best wishes for the holiday season.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference. You may disconnect your lines at this time. Thank you for your participation.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Ted and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Second Quarter 2023 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Heather Hollander, Vice President, Investor Relations at Bath & Body Works. Heather, you may begin.
Heather Hollander:
Thank you. Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works Second Quarter 2023 Earnings Conference Call. Today's call may contain forward-looking statements related to future events and expectations. Please refer to this morning's press release and the Risk Factors in Bath & Body Works 2022 Form 10-K for factors that could cause the actual results to differ materially from these forward-looking statements.
Today's call contains certain non-GAAP financial measures. Please refer to this morning's press release and supplemental materials for important disclosures regarding such measures, including reconciliations to the most comparable GAAP financial measure. Joining me on the call today are Gina Boswell, Chief Executive Officer; Julie Rosen, President Retail; and Eva Boratto, Chief Financial Officer. I'll now turn the call over to Gina.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Heather, and good morning, everyone. Thank you for joining us today. Before I discuss our performance and progress in the quarter, I'd like to thank our teams for consistently delivering terrific service to our customers, remaining agile in a dynamic environment and executing on our strategic initiatives. We're also very pleased to have welcomed Eva Boratto as Bath & Body Works new CFO at the beginning of this month. She is a seasoned executive with over 3 decades of financial, operational and retail experience. and she's already hit the ground running. You'll of course hear from Eva on today's call.
Now moving on to our second quarter results. Net sales were in line with our expectations, declining 3.6% compared to the prior year. Adjusted diluted earnings per share of $0.40 were better than planned with the majority of the outperformance driven by the benefits of our cost optimization initiative, increased average unit retail or AUR and improved merchandise margin. In fact, year-over-year merchandise margin rate increased modestly for the first time in nine quarters. I continue to be very pleased with our team's ability to drive efficiency in the business while building the capabilities to drive future growth. In the second quarter, we once again showcased our exceptional innovation capabilities. With the completed rollout of our new handsets, all of which are formulated without paraben, sulfates and dyes, continued delivery of newness through our genome fragrance collection, the addition of grooming to our men's offering, the successful limited launch of our new fragrance hair care line in July, which has received a very positive response from our customers. And finally, the launch of hand soap refill cartons in July, providing our customers with a convenient, sustainable solution. We were also pleased with our Mother's Day results and executed well in our June semiannual sale, delivering merchandise margin rates above our expectations. From a category perspective, in the second quarter, our body care sales increased versus the prior year. Home fragrance and soaps and sanitizer sales declined as expected, driven by post-pandemic normalization. Importantly, year-to-date, we've increased unit share across these product categories. As expected, we continue to see some pressure on basket size during the quarter. To be clear, we aren't seeing any trade down in our business, but we've observed that the customer is carefully managing their spending against the backdrop of a challenging macroeconomic environment. As we look ahead to the remainder of the year, we remain focused on delivering innovation and building capabilities to position our company for above-industry growth when our categories normalize. Our revenue is approximately 40% above 2019 levels, and we have diverse opportunities and multiple initiatives designed to deliver long-term top line growth and margin expansion. We're making progress on the five key areas that I outlined on our last call. First, elevating the brand through innovation and upgrades to our forms, packaging and merchandising; second, extending our reach through adjacencies and international growth; third, engaging with our customers by fully leveraging the strength of our loyalty program, enhanced technology and more personalization; fourth, enabling a seamless omnichannel experience by advancing our digital platforms and connecting them with our stores; and finally, enhancing operational excellence to drive efficiency. Julie will speak to our progress in brand elevation and extending our reach in a moment, but I'd like to dig a little deeper on the other three, returning to our work to better engage with our customer. We are deepening our connection across the customer journey, building on our history of connecting with the customer through fragrance, outstanding products and a terrific shopping experience, whether online or in store. Our customer segmentation analysis identified the customer groups that represent our biggest growth opportunities and has given us a better understanding of their unique needs and motivations. These insights are now informing our innovation, merchandising and marketing and enabling us to be more effective and efficient in reaching our target customer segments. We're also building our technology capabilities to implement a more personalized targeted approach the marketing and promotions rooted in data and analytics. Through this work, we plan to increase trial of new products, encourage cross-channel and cross-category shopping, build the customer's basket and drive incremental trips. Now that we have successfully completed the vast majority of our IT separation from Victoria's Secret, we will begin testing personalized marketing and optimize promotions this fall, that apply these capabilities more broadly and derive more value from them at the beginning next year. Our loyalty program continues to be a key component of customer engagement. This August, we anniversaried the national launch of our loyalty program, and we remain pleased with our enrollment of nearly 38 million members, with loyalty sales representing approximately 3/4 of our U.S. sales since launch. While we'll continue to build on our impressive enrollment, our primary focus is on increasing engagement. For example, in the second quarter, we not only of our loyalty members to both for the featured fragrances in our laundry product, we then gave them exclusive access to a previous sample event. Next, we gave our loyalty members a sneak preview of our Halloween collection and an exclusive early Halloween shopping event prior to the national launch. We have more benefits planned, and we're excited to test new capabilities such as accelerators in the third quarter. Beyond that, we're focused on fully integrating our loyalty experience throughout our channels. We are still in the early innings of our loyalty program, and we are confident in our ability to drive more sales and improve merchandise margins while attracting more customers to the program. Moving to the next area of focus, which is enabling a seamless omnichannel experience. Although we have a strong profitable digital business, our digital assets are largely transactional. As we move to more experiential integrated platforms, we plan to drive higher sales, more discovery and larger baskets through personalized landing pages, immersive content and product recommendations. In the second quarter, we introduced personalized recommendations on our website and mobile app. This month, we'll begin to deliver personalized e-mail content. Later in the third quarter, we plan to test immersive video content on our website and mobile app with a broader launch plan for the fourth quarter. As you know, we completed our national rollout of Buy Online Pickup in Store, or BOPIS in the first quarter. BOPIS orders increased 25% in the second quarter as customers are increasingly choosing this convenient option. And approximately 30% of BOPIS customers made an additional purchase in store when they picked up their order, which is a testament to the power of the outstanding in-store experience delivered by our talented associates, iconic fragrances and compelling assortments. Delivering a seamless omnichannel experience will allow us to convert more single-channel customers to dual channel customers, which, on average, increase spend threefold. Finally, we are enhancing operational excellence and efficiency through $200 million of planned annual cost savings across the company. We are on track to deliver approximately $150 million of those savings in 2023, and Eva will share additional detail on our plans for the second half of the year shortly. Eva will also provide an update to our fiscal 2023 guidance, which reflects our bottom line outperformance in the second quarter and sales expectations for the second half of the year. As I touched on earlier, the customer has been cautious in managing their spending amidst the softer macroeconomic backdrop. However, they are still responding to newness, innovation and our compelling seasonal events. We are taking action to deliver innovation and build the capabilities that will allow us to better serve our customers, drive above-industry growth and deliver margin expansion Bath & Body Works has a highly differentiated business model, positioned at the intersection of consumer goods and retail and a strong fleet of profitable stores with off-mall and in mall that position us close to the customer. We have a vertically integrated supply chain, which allows us to respond quickly to changing customer and macro trends, along with a strong balance sheet and a history of superior growth and free cash flow generation. As we navigate macroeconomic pressures, I am confident that we have a diverse set of opportunities to profitably grow the business and create value for our shareholders, building on a strong foundation that exists today. With that, I'll turn the call over to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Gina. We started the second quarter with a strong Mother's Day, delivering newness with our Gingham all bag of collection and a strong gifting assortment. As you know, our vertically integrated supply chain allows us to read and react to trends quickly, and we've leveraged this capability as we chased winners and delivered additional inventory to meet customer demand. As Gina mentioned, we executed well in our June semiannual sale, and we're pleased to deliver merchandise margin rates above our expectations. We were very intentional in structuring this year's event to drive early interest by offering compelling price points on sale products and introducing full price new summer season product alongside the event. We then took fewer markdowns over the course of the event and delivered better-than-expected merchandise margin rate.
Turning to category performance. Second quarter body care sales increased slightly versus last year, a sequential improvement from the first quarter. Body Care was propelled by growth in Fine Fragrance Mist, travel as well as our men's business, which posted a double-digit sales increase this quarter and remains one of our fastest-growing product lines as we add new forms and merchandising ideas. At the beginning of the quarter, we launched men's grooming, which performed well and exceeded our expectations. We're very excited about the growth of our men's business as it is bringing in new customers to our brands and also garnering the attention of younger customers. The home fragrance and soaps and sanitizers categories both declined versus last year, as expected, driven by continued industry-wide post-pandemic normalization trends, which we have discussed previously. Sales for the home fragrance and soap and sanitizer categories collectively represent just over half of our business. We remain market leaders in these categories and have gained unit share year-to-date, even as the categories experienced pressure at the industry level. We remain focused on innovating and positioning for future growth in these categories. For example, Wallflowers once again outperformed candles as customers are spending less time at home. We are leaning into the demand by increasing our assortment of scent control wallflower heaters and offering decorative innovations such as the projection Wallflowers in our Halloween collection, which illuminate and project festive images. Turning to our strategic initiatives. As Gina mentioned, I'll provide some detail on how we're making progress in elevating our brand and extending our reach to accelerate growth. This quarter, we continued to deliver innovation in product and merchandising. This was visible and our refreshed core handset offering, including the completed rollout of our new formulation made without paraben, sulfates or dyes. Additionally, we have rolled out foaming hand soap refill and recyclable paper cartons to all U.S. stores, allowing customers to conveniently refill their soap containers and minimize waste. Beyond soap, we're innovating and elevating our product and packaging while staying true to the brand heritage. For example, this month, we brought back fan favorite, [indiscernible] and Water, a new and elevated packaging and formulations. We also added a sensitive skin product with colloidal oatmeal. This ingredient-led collection is an exception of our wellness category and intended to provide the additional moisture, hydration and sensitive skin solutions that our customers are seeking. And within merchandising, we're evolving our storytelling to broader inspirational brand storytelling, including recommendations for selecting and using the product as well as creating the perfect gift. We demonstrated elements of this within our Gingham offering, which was designed to be an immersive shopping experience. This included new fragrances in gorgeous, fresh, vibrant and Gingham Legend for men across multiple forms as well as front of store and digital takeovers and beautiful gifting option. As we work to extend our reach, we're leveraging our core strength in fragrance and innovation to expand into adjacent categories, including fragrance, hair care, men's, wellness and laundries. We're also building on the success of our international business. As I mentioned, this quarter, we expanded our men's product portfolio to include Grooming. The first stage of our expansion focused on face and beard care and launched in the advance of Father's Day. In September, we are expanding into men's hair and shaving. As part of our ongoing innovation cycle, we tested fragrance hair care products last summer, and we're very pleased with the customer response to our fragrance led positioning. In the second quarter, we launched hair care in approximately 560 stores and online with shampoo and conditioner in five of our signature scent and dry shampoos in three. The launch has exceeded our expectations, and we plan to complete the rollout to all U.S. stores next spring. This month, we're excited to elevate the mundane with the launch of our laundry line, including many of our best-selling fragrances across a limited number of stores and online. Initial customer feedback from our previous sample event has been very positive with customers noting that our laundry detergent is an exciting new way to add another layer of their favorite scent to their daily routine. As we work to broaden our customer base and attract a younger customer, we know that [ lip ] products represent an important opportunity. Therefore, we're upgrading, expanding and relaunching our in-store assortment and visual presentation of our lip products across a limited number of stores this fall with additional expansion to follow-up early next year. With the addition of fragrant haircare, laundry and lip, we are now able to offer our iconic fragrances across as many as 22 product forms. We are also committed to extending our reach geographically and continue to evaluate opportunities to build on the success of our international business and drive significant growth through further market expansion, new stores and digital growth with our partnership-based model. As we look ahead to the third quarter, we are very excited about the launch of Halloween. We launched Halloween 1 week later this year to better align with the customer mindset. For the first time, we are placing this assortment at the front of our stores to give it additional prominence, and we're expanding our most loved scent such as Vampire blood across categories. For our fall assortment and scent, we've listened to the customers and are bringing back our iconic fall scents such as Leaves and Pumpkin Pecan Waffles in new and elevated packaging. And for Hispanic Heritage Month we are featuring a consumer series celebrating Patty Hidalgo and her long-standing contribution to our fragrance portfolio, including customer favorite Strawberry Pound Cake. Bath & Body Works is an outstanding beloved brand, and we are excited about what's ahead as we continue to deliver new compelling products and capitalize on opportunities for profitable global expansion. In closing, I'd like to thank our teams for their dedication to delivering industry-leading innovation and service and delighting our customers. And with that, I'll turn it over to Eva.
Eva Boratto:
Thank you, Julie, and good morning, everyone. I'm excited to join you today and honored to be part of this outstanding company. Over the past several weeks, I've spent my time immersing the business while engaging with the executive leadership and finance teams. I've also had the opportunity to participate in the financial planning process and observe the progress the teams have made on the company's strategic initiatives. The last few weeks have reinforced my belief that Bath & Body Works is on the right path to capitalize on the tremendous opportunities ahead and create significant long-term value for shareholders.
Today, I'll start by reviewing our second quarter financial results, then I'll provide an overview of our guidance for the third quarter and fiscal year 2023. Starting with the second quarter results. we generated adjusted diluted earnings per share of $0.40, exceeding our guidance range of $0.27 to $0.32 per diluted share. Our adjusted results exclude the gain on the early extinguishment of debt associated with the debt repurchases in the second quarter. We were pleased with our second quarter operational outperformance resulting from the benefits of our cost optimization initiative, increased AURs and improved merchandise margins. EPS also benefited from interest expense favorability in part associated with the repurchase and retirement of debt in the second quarter and tax rate favorability, resulting from the resolution of certain discrete tax matters related to the Victoria's Secret spin-off. Net sales for the second quarter were $1.6 billion, in line with our expectations. The year-over-year decline of 3.6% was driven by a decrease in both transactions and average dollar sale. In U.S. and Canadian stores, Second quarter sales totaled $1.1 billion, a decrease of 1% versus the prior year. Second quarter direct sales of $329 million decreased 10% compared to last year. Adjusted for BOPIS, direct demand decreased 6% in the second quarter. As a reminder, BOPIS sales are recognized as store sales, and we completed the BOPIS rollout to U.S. stores in the first quarter. International sales were $86 million and declined 4% versus last year. Note, on a year-to-date basis, international sales increased 4%. There are two components to our international net sales. Royalties collected off franchise retail sales and wholesale revenue generated by the product we sell to our franchise partners. And while wholesale revenue declined in the second quarter due to lower orders and shipments, total international system-wide retail sales posted a double-digit increase. propelled by new store openings and strong sales for the June semiannual sale event. Our guidance for the back half of the year assumes that our international sales returned to growth. Our gross profit rate for the second quarter decreased by 90 basis points compared to prior year Q2, representing a year-over-year sequential improvement of 255 basis points from the first quarter. Merchandise margin rate improved modestly year-over-year for the first time in nine quarters. This improvement was driven by deflation benefit, increased AUR and reduced transportation costs, partially offset by continued investment in product formulations and packaging innovation. Improvements in merchandise margins were offset by buying and occupancy expense deleverage primarily due to lower sales and increased occupancy expense from new store sales growth -- sales. Total SG&A deleveraged by 200 basis points, representing a year-over-year sequential improvement of 90 basis points from the first quarter. Technology expense was the biggest driver of deleverage, reflecting our IT separation costs as well as strategic investments to drive future growth. As expected, we partially mitigated the impact of technology investments with our cost optimization work, which produced efficiency in store labor hours and home office expense. All said, our cost optimization work produced benefits of approximately $30 million in the quarter across gross profit and SG&A. Second quarter total company operating income was $188 million or 12% of net sales. Turning to the balance sheet. We repurchased $115 million senior notes principal for $106 million in the quarter. We remain focused on disciplined inventory management and ended the second quarter with total inventory dollars down 16% compared to last year. Heading into the second half of the year, our inventory levels are well positioned. Our overall real estate portfolio remains very healthy, with 99% of the fleet profitable and store significantly outperforming pre-pandemic levels. In the second quarter, we continued to increase our off-mall penetration opening 30 new off-mall North American stores and permanently closing 17 stores, principally in malls. Our international business, our partners opened 16 new stores in the second quarter, ending the quarter with 444 stores. Now turning to our fiscal 2023 guidance. We are providing our 2023 guidance with comparisons to 2022. And as a reminder, fiscal 2023 includes the 53rd week, so the fourth quarter of fiscal 2023 will consist of 14 weeks. The impact of the 53rd week reflected in our guidance is estimated at $0.07 per diluted share. And our guidance excludes the impact of any further debt or share repurchase activity. With that as context, we are updating our fiscal year guidance to reflect Q2 performance narrowing our sales range, raising our gross profit expectations and factoring in the benefits of the debt and share repurchases through the second quarter, resulting in an increase to our EPS guidance. Now let me provide some additional color on these changes. For the full year, we now expect sales declines of 1.5% to 3.5%, reflecting our year-to-date performance continued macroeconomic uncertainty, judicious consumer spending and post-pandemic category normalization across the industry. For the first two quarters of the year, our sales were in line with the midpoint of our projections. Factoring in year-to-date performance and improved visibility, we are narrowing our sales range around the midpoint of our prior guidance. The company is very adept at quickly reading and responding to changing business trends, and we plan to leverage that agility to chase demand and maximize sales. We are enhancing our operational excellence and efficiency and plan to deliver approximately $100 million in cost savings in the second half of the year. Approximately 30% of the savings are related to reduced transportation expense, with the remainder reflecting other benefits of our program, including efficiency in store labor and selling productivity as we better align staffing hours to traffic, reduced expense as we optimize our call center, home office expense efficiency and decreased indirect spend. Gross margin exceeded our expectations in the first half of the year and we are now raising our forecast for the full year gross margin rate to approximately 43%. We continue to expect year-over-year merchandise margin rate to improve in the second half of the year supported by greater deflation benefits and efficiency produced from our cost optimization work. These benefits are partially offset by investments in formulation and packaging upgrades to reinforce our competitive position. Overall, we expect merchandise margin rate to expand by approximately 100 basis points in the second half of the year versus prior year, resulting in improved merchandise margin rate for the full year. We still expect buying and occupancy expense to deleverage for the year, driven by sales levels and increased expense from new store growth with less deleverage for the remainder of the year, as our new direct-to-consumer fulfillment center ramps. Our guidance still assumes a full year SG&A rate of approximately 26% with deleverage driven by lower sales levels technology expense and increased store wage rates, partially offset by the expected benefits of our cost optimization work. We now expect full year adjusted net nonoperating expense of approximately $295 million, reflecting interest expense favorability from debt repurchases through the end of the second quarter. We still expect an effective tax rate of approximately 26% and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 230 million. For the fiscal year 2023, we are increasing our adjusted earnings per diluted share guidance range to $2.80 to $3.10. We continue to plan for $300 million to $350 million of capital expenditures in 2023. And we now expect to generate free cash flow of $675 million to $725 million in fiscal 2023. Turning to our third quarter 2023 outlook, we are forecasting sales decline of 2.5% to 4% versus the prior year. We expect gross profit rate of approximately 42% and an SG&A rate of approximately 31% of sales. We expect net nonoperating expense of approximately $75 million and a tax rate of approximately 26% and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 229 million. Considering all these factors, we are forecasting third quarter earnings per diluted share of $0.30 to $0.40. Looking now at our capital allocation. Our first priority is investing in the business to drive profitable growth. We are also committed to returning cash to shareholders. In the first 6 months of the year, we paid $92 million in dividends, and we plan to continue paying an annual dividend of $0.80 per share with an intention to increase the dividend over time as earnings increase. In the second quarter, we also repurchased 1.3 million shares for $50 million in the open market. In addition to returning cash to shareholders, we are committed to returning to our target leverage ratio of approximately 2.5x gross adjusted debt to EBITDA over time. We ended 2022 with a leverage ratio of 3.1x, and through the second quarter of the year, we have repurchased $199 million principal amount of our senior notes in the open market. We will continue to take a balanced approach to capital allocation, considering options such as additional debt and share repurchases. In conclusion, I'm excited about the future of our business and we're focused on taking the necessary actions to drive profitable growth and generate value for all stakeholders. At this time, we'd be happy to take your questions, and I'll turn it over to Heather for Q&A.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Eva. [Operator Instructions] We'll now move to the Q&A session. Operator?
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] The first question in the queue is from Kate McShane with Goldman Sachs.
Katharine McShane:
It was really encouraging to see that you grew AURs in the quarter. We wondered if you could talk to us a little bit more about this and what role it plays in your updated guidance today.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So from an AUR perspective, this is Julie, by the way. Thank you for the question. We actually, as you know, semiannual sale plays a huge role in our Q2. And we took a very balanced approach to driving sales and improving merchandise margins. So our semiannual sales event sales were below last year's event, but in line with our expectations. We executed well. We offered compelling price points on sale products while also introducing full price new summer season product alongside the event. Customers responded very favorably to our event. They continue to carefully manage their spending in light of macroeconomic conditions, which had an adverse effect on the impact of the number of items added to the basket.
Ultimately, we took fewer markdowns over the course of the event and delivered better-than-expected merchandise margin rate. I would also say that AUR increased slightly this quarter and remains significantly elevated since 2019. And as a note on pricing, we have taken price increases in spring '23. We've created more differentiated assortments to drive pricing power. As a reminder, our AUR has increased slightly this quarter but significantly compared to 2019, and we do have a long track record of AUR growth in the positive low single digit levels prior to the pandemic.
Eva Boratto:
And Julie, if I could just add, as it pertains to our guidance, we are assuming flat AURs in the back half of the year. and we'll continue to test for opportunities to increase AURs, as Julie has just explained and expand margin through more data-driven, targeted marketing efforts.
Katharine McShane:
And then if we could just follow up with a question on the candle, soaps and sanitizers. Can you talk about what that category looks like on stack or versus 2019 and just how it performed also versus Q1?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. Thank you for that question. So though the home fragrance and soaps and sanitizers categories are normalizing post pandemic. We have gained unit share year-to-date, and we are a market leader in these categories and plan to build on that position. We do continue to innovate and position for growth in these categories. For example, wallflowers, as I mentioned, continue to outperform. So we're leaning into that demand. We also recently refreshed our core soap offering, including the completed rollout of our new formulation made without paraben, sulfates and dyes and additionally rolled out our foaming hand soaps and recyclable cartons. So we are absolutely focused on our core businesses and innovating in them to drive growth to 2019, all categories are up significantly in the double digits. So no category is below.
Heather Hollander:
All right. Thanks, Kate. We'll take the next question please.
Operator:
Next question in the queue is from Alex Straton, Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Great. I've got two for you, one on guidance and then one on the longer-term outlook. So on guidance, it seems like the full year update implies a deceleration in quarter over growth in the fourth quarter and I think a little bit lower sales than prior. So what's driving that more conservative view on the fourth quarter. And then secondly, on the long term, I know you guys have that 20% EBIT margin target out there. What do you view as the key factors holding you below that rate right now? And how do you think about the time line to getting back to that goal in the future?
Eva Boratto:
Alex, this is Eva. I'll start with your question as it pertains to the Q4 guidance. As you look at our back half of the year guidance first, right, in our full year guidance, what we've done is we've narrowed our sales range to the midpoint of what we had previously provided. And that really reflects our performance that we've seen in the first two quarters that were in line with our performance. And it also reflects the cautious consumer. And while we haven't seen trade downs in our business, we are seeing the consumer be more thoughtful at the overall basket size. So as we have this visibility, there's a lot of macro uncertainty. That's how we thought about the top line in the back half of the year.
Julie Rosen:
And as it relates to Gina as it relates to your question around the 20% operating income margin long term, there's a few things we feel very comfortable that as a long-term target. That's the right one. 20% is the best-in-class operating income rate for our sector. And we don't want to limit ourselves to 20%, but we do think that, that number over time, best balances the investment in the business to drive future growth while maximizing shareholder return. Clearly, in the last couple of years, there have been step function increases in input costs and labor and certain parts of our business like technology, they require additional investments to fuel our growth. And those are very important as we evolve our marketing program, our loyalty and our omni-channel. But I'm pleased with the track that we have on our initiatives. I'm pleased with what we expect in terms of margin recovery and a very disciplined approach to expenses. So very comfortable with that.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Alex. We'll take the next question.
Operator:
Next question is from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess I wanted to ask a question around costs, your AUC more so into next year. Can you comment about some of your key raw materials, primarily soy what those costs look like today, how they should flow into the P&L come next year? Just curious for some high-level thoughts over the next 12 months there?
Eva Boratto:
This is Eva Boratto. From a deflation perspective, we saw -- we experienced about $20 million of deflation in the Q2, and we expect $30 million in Q3. We expect that benefit to increase throughout the remainder of this year. As you look at raw materials, I'll just add a few comments. Overall, we did see most prices peak in 2022 with expected deflation in 2023. [ Wax ] has been outlier with significant price volatility up and down year-to-date. We saw a spike in soy over the past 60 days with some concerns over dry weather impacting the crop. We've seen an impact being smooth via commodity risk mitigation processes and I think they are the key things that I would highlight. I think it's premature to comment on what we expect in 2024 and will certainly come back as we are ready to provide our '24 outlook.
Heather Hollander:
All right. Thanks, Ike. Next question please.
Operator:
Next question is from Dana Telsey with the Telsey Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about the new products that you're introducing, Julie and what the gross margins could look like on some of the new products? Is there any difference from the core gross margin to the business overall? And then the loyalty members. Any more color on the loyalty members and their acceptance of the new products and what statistics you're looking to hit for loyalty members by the end of the year? And then just lastly, on the off-mall stores, anything you're seeing at all in terms of productivity rates, anything with what we've heard with organized crime and shrink in what you're doing?
Julie Rosen:
Thanks, Dana. Nice to hear your voice. So starting with the new products, we have launched a lot of adjacencies that we are starting to test, optimize and roll. So I just want to review them very quickly. and then I'll talk to your margin question about them. So in men's, as you know, in the second quarter, we successfully launched men's grooming. And in September, we're following with men's hair and shave. We continue to focus on APDO as it is the #1 form in the men's market. And men's continues to be our fastest growing category in body care. The men's margin is commensurate with the shop.
So we're very excited about that. Fragrance hair care in the second quarter was launched to 560 stores and online in July, and the launch has exceeded our expectations, and we expect to complete that rollout to all stores next spring. We also have lip as we work to broaden our customer base and attract a younger customer. We're upgrading, we're expanding and we're relaunching our in-store assortment and visual presentation of our [ lip ] products across limited number of stores in the third quarter. Additional expansion will happen next year. And then finally, of course, there's laundry, which we are very excited about to be launching this month across a limited number of stores and online. So initial customer feedback from our preview sample event has been very positive with customers noting that our laundry detergent is an exciting way to add another layer of their favorite scent to their daily routines. So some of those adjacencies are commensurate was shot from a margin perspective. Others are not quite there yet, but we have a long-standing history here at Bath & Body Works. As you've seen with wallflowers and 3-Wick over the years, that with scale, we have no doubt that we will get there. So I will skip to the straight question, if that's okay, and then I will have Gina come back to your loyalty question, if that works. So as is the case with the retailers, we have seen external pressures adversely impacting our shrink rate and it has gotten worse this year. That being said, the impact has been factored into our guidance. And we are working with our stores, with government and community partners to achieve lower loss rates over time. So I'll let Gina talk to loyalty.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you. So loyalty is -- as you know, we're very proud of one of the best rollouts in Bath & Body Works' history in terms of the enrollment speed among the fastest in the industry. So we're very pleased with the enrollment to date. And as I mentioned, we are early stages of deriving the value from the program, but some of the things that Julie had mentioned in terms of the previews that we've used, whether it's the laundry or the sneak preview of Halloween, we absolutely use the loyalty platform in ways to build the excitement around some of the launches, and we will continue to do that. The benefits that we have planned going forward on new capabilities like accelerators, which you may see in other programs, that's happening in the third quarter.
So that's sort of on come. And then this -- actually, this month, we have our first annual member appreciation event because we're celebrating the 1-year anniversary. So you'll be seeing a lot of surprise and delight product drops, you'll see first looks, exclusive offers to reward our loyal customers. So lots going on in loyalty. And with the 38 million members strong, that's a lot to work with. So we're excited on the go forward there. And I think you may have had a question around off-mall as well -- and actually, we're quite pleased Julie can chime back in, but we're quite pleased with the traffic, both in mall and off-mall. And the off-mall sales performance exceeds the in mall, but the traffics are actually quite good. Julie, do you want to add anything about...
Julie Rosen:
No. I think I think that you have absolutely answered that question. We do have opportunities with new stores as they continue to drive a great return for us.
Heather Hollander:
Thank you. Next question please.
Operator:
Next question is from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
So Gina, could you speak to categories of relative improvement that you saw throughout the second quarter? And then maybe as you just assess the performance of some of the new category launches and early feedback maybe relative to the normalization curve that you spoke to around candles and soaps and sanitizers, just trying to put together or maybe bridge the path forward. Any way to think about a time line to return to low to mid-single-digit same-store sales and the multiyear long-term target?
Gina Boswell:
Sure. We can talk to normalization as well. Julie, you might want to start with the home fragrance in...
Julie Rosen:
I actually -- why don't I talk to you about category performance relative to overall performance, just to give you a gauge of what's happening in our business and then talk to you about how we're thinking about the back half. So body care was our top-performing category this quarter. and with positive sales propelled by Fine Fragrance Mist, travel and double-digit growth in the men's business. I think the exciting thing about Fine Fragrance Mist is we just came out of Mother's Day, and that is what we hope to sell during Mother's Day. Our home fragrance performed below the shop with declines driven by pressure in candles as was expected. We know this is an industry-wide trend as the category continues to normalize post pandemic.
Wallflowers performed above the shop and better than candles because we are seeing people fragrance their homes in different ways. I do want to mention we are still the market leader in this category, and we continue to gain unit share in -- versus mask, even as the category experiences broader pressure. And then from a soaps and sanitizers perspective, just tearing those apart, I just want you to know that soaps performed in line with shop. We completed our rollout, as I said, of our new formulations as well as our new foaming hand soap refills. It was sanitizers that performs well below shop as that category continues to normalize, and this is a broader industry issue, and we continue to gain unit share versus mass in both soaps and sanitizers. So our back half is really assuming similar trends. And we're not really speaking to '24 right now.
Eva Boratto:
Yes. I was -- Matt, thank you for the question. I was only going to say that we're not speaking to '24. We did see normalization we have based on continued normalization into the back half of the year and as well as the macro pressures, too. Our intent and our strategies that we undertake are absolutely building the capabilities to build above industry growth going forward. We're pleased with gaining unit share in the categories that we have as they decline. And quite frankly, we're leaning into some of the pandemic trends that we believe will endure, right?
So there's areas like wellness and healthcare. We can have categories contract, but we can take our fair share or more and then hang on to the ones that we can grow further from there. And given our track record, I feel comfortable that we'll continue to do that, gaining market share and building the capabilities for future growth. So that when our categories normalize and our macroeconomic backdrop improves, we will have the customer that are frequent, as you know, they come in, they replenish and that's why from a personal perspective, I think unit share is a wonderful way to measure our performance.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Matt. Next question please.
Operator:
The next question is from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
The new guidance implies a nice year-over-year improvement in the fourth quarter gross margin. Can you talk about your expectations for the promotional environment over holiday and also the sustainability of these gains into next year?
Julie Rosen:
So Lorraine, it's Julie. From a promotional -- sorry, from a promotional perspective, we are actually looking at promotions being in line with last year. as you know and have seen, we are incredibly, incredibly agile in our promos. So when we need to add something and we do and when we need to pull something out, we do. So we see it actually in line.
Eva Boratto:
Lorraine, this is Eva. I'll add a little more color on the back half of the year trends and sequentially Q3, Q4, how we're looking at things. So as you look at the back half of the year, as you mentioned, we're seeing margin improvement, and that's coming from a few places. One, our Q3 and Q4 merch margin, both quarters, we expect to improve 100 basis points versus LY due to our continued efforts around supply as well as price. We are also getting a benefit as our B&O deleverage improves, particularly in Q4, it's a greater impact in Q4. Obviously, we get the ramp of the sales line. but also the ramp of our new customer fulfillment center as we -- as that ramps through the period. Finally, I'll say our SG&A deleverage improve in the back half and sequentially Q3 to Q4, again, a sales increase, greater impact from our cost optimization. And Q3 has cost -- elevated costs related to staffing in the seasonality of our business that we experience each year. So hopefully, that provides you some additional color there.
And in terms of durability, while we're not commenting to 2024 here today, right, from our cost initiatives, we continue to target $200 million of annual cost savings, and we'll continue to strive to achieve more. We are focused on our margins, reducing cost but also driving the top line.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Lorraine. We're ready for the next question please.
Operator:
Next question is from Adrienne Yih with Barclays.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Congratulations on the progress. It's very nice to see the merch margins. So I guess I'll start there with the merch margin. First time it's up in nine quarters. So can you talk about, Eva, I think this is for you. Can you talk about that merchandise margin relative to pre-pandemic? And then Gina, I would really like to see the new packaging and the elevation -- Julie as well. Can you talk about sort of how you think about weaning the business off of some of these promos that kind of come out semiannual, et cetera as you make your way toward kind of a more elevated product in particular categories and how you think about price -- further price appreciation price taking in that higher elevated category?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So I'll start, Adrienne, with the merch margins since pre-pandemic. It is still downside slightly from pre-pandemic given the inflation that we've experienced over the last couple of years.
Gina Boswell:
Yes. And your question around when can we expect -- I mean, I think everybody is clear on our strategies around how we elevate the brand and the product and the way we have been, and Julie explained well in terms of what we do with semiannual sales, right, to sort of have the price is sort of adjust and so that we can take out the margin that we had.
I think from a longer-term point of view, and it's not so long term because we're building those capabilities as we speak is how do we move from broad-based promotions into more personalized. And that has been something that we are now doing because we have successfully completed the vast majority of our separation from Victoria's Secret. So with that in the rearview mirror, we've been putting tests in place. And so as an example, we introduced some personalized recommendations to our website and our mobile app and it was a small initial test, but we see the conversion rates people engaging with personalized content to a greater degree. And that is the toolkit really to start targeting our promotions more effectively, driving efficiency there. and we'll start to see those for sure in the quarters that follow, but we're testing that right now. And beyond that, the way we read, react, respond as it relates to where the customer is at, is really a strength of this organization. So wherever we can get average unit retails without impacting. We basically have an analytical approach to drive elasticities like I've never seen a very real-time dynamics here. So I think when we have both testing as well as week-to-week where is everybody at, we can drive the merch margin.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. Just one final point on that is just promos will still be a traffic driver for our business. But I do believe, as Gina has said, by sharpening our approach with the right technology in place, we're going to really leverage that data and analytics to deliver that more personalized targeted messages to our customer. And what the hope is and what we know will happen is that we'll increase trips, spend and engagement while reducing our reliance on those broad-based promotions.
Heather Hollander:
Thank you. And operator, we have time for one more question, please.
Operator:
The last question is from Olivia Tong with Raymond James.
Olivia Tong Cheang:
Great. I want to ask you two questions. First, about trends exiting the quarter, your view in terms of back to school. You mentioned in earlier remarks, your expectation to provide AUR in second half. If you could talk about what's driving that given that it had improved in Q2 and if that maybe factoring to loan repayment is a piece of that. And then I also wanted to touch on your approach relative to the core in terms of the new categories, whether it's bringing in any new customers or expanding the share of wallet existing just where that consumer is coming from?
Eva Boratto:
Sure. This is Eva. I'll start with trends exiting the quarter. Sitting here today, as we look at our August performance for the first half of the month, it's right in line with the expectations that we provided today. If your question was more asking about second quarter, our second quarter sales normalizing for timing of events that we have performed right in line with our expectations, and there were no trends to really -- there were no trends month-to-month to call out.
Julie Rosen:
As far as customers go, Olivia, we do know from the data that men's is bringing in new customers and more customers who identify as male and now customers all just few younger, we know that from our data. The other thing we are starting to see but these are early stages, is that our lip product is also engaging a younger customer. So as we roll out hair and laundry and lip and continue to test, optimize and work with men's, we will grab the data and continue to let you know how we are tracking.
Gina Boswell:
Yes. And I was simply going to say you mentioned the magic word for me, which is it is really about the core and more. And so -- and as much as we talk about how the customer develops around reaction to lip or men's and younger and more diverse. There are certainly opportunities and our customer segmentation work is indicating that. The core categories are also supportive of our customer expansion, and we think there's equal amounts there that we can lease. So...
Julie Rosen:
And you had one additional question for me about flat AURs in the guidance. You're correct, we are assuming flat AURs in the back half of the year. And we will continue to test for opportunities to increase the AUR and expand margin. through data-driven initiatives, targeted marketing efforts, et cetera. But slide is our guidance assumption.
Heather Hollander:
All right. Thanks, Olivia. We want to thank you for joining today's call. A replay will be available for 90 days on our website. Thank you for your interest in Bath & Body Works. Have a great day.
Operator:
This concludes today's call. Thank you for your participation. You may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Danielle, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Fourth Quarter 2022 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Heather Hollander, Vice President, Investor Relations at Bath & Body Works. Heather, you may begin.
Heather Hollander:
Thank you, Danielle. Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works Fourth Quarter and Fiscal 2022 Earnings Conference Call. Today's call may contain forward-looking statements related to future events and expectations. Please refer to this morning's press release and the Risk Factors in Bath & Baby Works 2021 Form 10-K for factors that could cause the actual results to differ materially from these forward-looking statements. Today's call may contain certain non-GAAP financial measures. Please refer to this morning's press release for important disclosures regarding such measures, including reconciliations to the most comparable GAAP financial measure. Joining me on the call today are Gina Boswell, Chief Executive Officer; Julie Rosen, Brand President; and Wendy Arlin, Chief Financial Officer. All of the 2021 results we will discuss today are adjusted and exclude the significant items detailed in our press release. Additionally, the results represent results from continuing operations and exclude the discontinued operations related to Victoria's Secret in 2021. I'll now turn the call over to Gina.
Gina Boswell:
Thank you, Heather, and Good morning, everyone. Thank you for joining us. First, let me say how thrilled I am to be here at such a dynamic time. It is an honor to lead Bath & Body Works and the more than 55,000 associates worldwide. I look forward to working with this team, our leadership and our Board to capitalize on the tremendous opportunities that I see for the business and for creating long-term shareholder value. On today's call, I'm going to talk about why I joined Bath & Body Works, discuss some of my early observations and then outline my initial areas of focus to drive growth and profitability. But before I dive in, I'd like to first thank the team. Their efforts enabled us to deliver fourth quarter sales at the high end of our guidance range and EPS that exceeded expectations. This was despite a challenging macroeconomic environment.
As to share a bit about why I chose to join Bath & Body Works through nearly 3 decades in the consumer industry, I have developed a true love for beauty, personal care and fragrance where customers are passionate and engaged, and quality and innovation are critical. And I was immediately drawn to Bath & Body Works as a company with its history of superior growth and a highly differentiated business model. This is a company truly positioned at the intersection of consumer goods and retail. The company is a market leader and innovator with leading share in its major categories of home fragrance, body care and soaps and sanitizers, and we have a top position in the U.S. in 10 forums. This includes body lotions, shower gel, 3-Wick Candles, and soaps and hand sanitizers. And we have also been significant share in the men's category. These are all growth categories with a long runway ahead in large addressable markets. As one of the premier fragrance companies in the world, we deliver customers their favorite fragrances in multiple forms and categories with industry-leading speed and innovation. We bring affordable luxuries in personal care and home fragrance to life like no other. Our strong relationships with our domestic vendor partners and fragrance houses enables us to continually deliver newness and meet the demands of an omnichannel customer. We manage every touch point throughout the customer journey to deliver a highly differentiated shopping experience. As I was visiting stores, I was also struck by the fact that Bath & Body Works offers products for the whole family and we're part of so many people's lives, we estimate that our products are in 40% of American households. And in my first 3 months, I've immersed myself in the business, and visited our stores and distribution centers and meeting with our supplier network at Beauty Park. I've also had an opportunity to engage with customers and store associates across the country as well as talk with investors to hear their perspective. I've conducted detailed business reviews with each of our functional leaders, and I've been impressed with the talent in our company and how engaged, knowledgeable and dedicated our associates are. This holiday season, I saw firsthand how our passionate sales force brings our seasonal storytelling to life in our stores. I've seen the strong connection customers have with our brand, which is underscored by our best-in-class brand engagement and loyalty. And I'm excited to see customers celebrate our events. I was delighted to learn that many customers consider our Candle Day, a national holiday. Overall, I'm pleased with the reach of Bath & Body Works with top brand awareness in our industry and customers indicating a strong propensity to recommend our brand. During the pandemic, our integrated and predominantly domestic supply chain positioned the company to meet elevated customer demand, which enabled us to drive significant growth in 2020 and 2021. In 2022, the company continued to grow unit share across our 3 major categories of body care, home fragrance and soaps and sanitizers. This team has demonstrated remarkable innovation capabilities, delivering a pipeline of newness in fragrance and product forms that powers our deep customer connections. Our product offering serves multiple customer occasions, including gifting, replenishment and self-purchase. We also connect with customers across touch points by telling stories through our fragrance and packaging. And finally, I've witnessed the company's key competitive advantage in bringing products to market with industry-leading speeds. Our vertically integrated supply chain allows us to respond quickly to changing customer and macro trends. So my early days of Bath & Body Works have reinforced why I joined the company and reaffirm the opportunity that we have to strengthen our position as a leading global omnichannel home and personal care brand. At the same time, there are areas where we can improve to drive top line growth and increase profitability. Looking forward, key areas of focus for us will be driving growth by expanding our customer base, delivering effective personalized marketing, optimizing our product offering, expanding our international reach, advancing our digital capabilities and unlocking the potential of our omnichannel model, all while focusing on improving profitability. So just starting with the customer. We have a large loyal customer base, and we have diversity across income levels, age groups and ethnicity. I see a significant opportunity to acquire new customers, increase spend and further diversify the space. As you know, our loyalty program launched nationwide in August, and we've seen great early results. Our enrollment speed is one of the fastest in the industry. And just last week, Newsweek named us one of America's best loyalty program. We've enrolled a total of 33 million members to date and more than 80% of these are active. This is a testament to our customers' passion for our brand. Our loyalty sales represent approximately 2/3 of our U.S. sales since launch, and our loyalty customers also have higher spend, greater retention rates and make more trips. And while these results are certainly impressive, we are still only in the early innings of the program, we're confident that more opportunity lies ahead. For example, we can drive more value and attract more customers to the program by increasing engagement through personalization by fully integrating our loyalty program across social, physical and digital interactions and making future program enhancements like tiered accelerators and flexible rewards. We also have an opportunity to leverage data and analytics to build deeper customer connections and deliver more personalized marketing and a more targeted promotion strategy. As Wendy will explain, relative to 2019 product cost inflation has exerted over 500 basis points of pressure on our operating margin. And though we've taken price increases to offset a portion of that pressure, in 2022 customers became increasingly price-sensitive. I believe we can grow our customer base, increase engagement and drive incremental trips, all while decreasing our reliance on broad-based promotions. We can capture this opportunity by implementing a more targeted marketing approach that is rooted in advanced analytics and customer segmentation. Our product offering and assortment strategies are key to elevating our brand as well as increasing our pricing power and extending our reach. We're focused on leveraging our core strength in fragrance and innovation to extend our product leadership into categories such as men's and wellness, both of which currently represent a small portion of our total business today. And Julie is going to speak in a bit about our product and marketing strategy. We also have an opportunity to drive significant growth in our international business, which on a reported basis is approximately 4% of our sales. This business leverages a partnership-based asset-light model. In 2023, we expect our international business to continue to accelerate with double-digit top line growth and operating margins that are accretive to our overall business. We're committed to expanding our reach and strengthening our position as a leading global brand through market expansion, new stores and digital growth. Beauty and personal care category customers value a true omnichannel experience. And to that end, we have a strong fleet of profitable stores, both off mall and in mall and these position us close to the customer. We also have a strong digital business. We see a significant opportunity to better connect our stores and e-commerce platform to deliver a seamless experience and increase our customer lifetime value. As an example, dual-channel customers spend 3x more than single channel customers, but dual-channel customers represent less than 15% of our customer base. So increasing penetration by just 1 percentage point could drive up to $50 million in sales. Technology is a key enabler of our growth. And as the team has shared, we are in a process of separating our IT systems from Victoria's Secret, and we expect to complete that transition this summer. But we're also assessing and investing in the foundational tools and systems that we'll need to support the company's future growth. We're focused on building out incremental capabilities to enhance the customer experience, evolve our loyalty program, support advanced analytics, deliver more personalized marketing and strengthening our omnichannel capabilities. We also remain committed to driving margin expansion and cost savings through effective management of pricing and promotions, along with finding additional ways to operate more efficiently. Following my functional business reviews, I see meaningful opportunities to reduce expenses and improve operating efficiency. I'm mindful that we've increased revenue 40% since 2019. And while our team has done an excellent job accommodating that growth, while separating from Victoria's Secret, we now have an opportunity to position the business for margin expansion and efficiency. To that end, we are targeting $200 million of annual cost savings across the company. We expect to realize over half of those savings in 2023 and a substantial portion of the remaining savings in 2024. We've engaged external advisers to assist in a top to bottom review of the business. As we pursue opportunities for both growth and margin expansion, we are prioritizing actions which we believe will create durable value for our shareholders. While we're focused in the near term on optimizing the core business, we'll continue to explore longer-term opportunities, such as adding new adjacent categories. With respect to 2023, we expect that ongoing macroeconomic challenges will continue to impact customer spending. At the same time, we expect that we will continue to see inflationary pressure on our input costs in the first quarter before beginning to see some relief as we move through the year, and we are pleased to enter this year in a clean inventory position. Regarding SG&A, the technology investments we're making to separate our systems and develop critical capabilities will help to reinvigorate growth and support the long-term success of the business. This will, however, create cost pressure in 2023. We're focusing on what we can control, and we're taking aggressive actions to drive profitable growth in the future. And despite near-term macroeconomic pressures, I am very optimistic about our future and our ability to reach our $10 billion sales target and deliver industry-leading operating margins of 20%. We look forward to updating you on our progress as we work to realize the full potential of our omnichannel model and profitably grow our business and deliver long-term shareholder value. So with that, I will turn the call over to Julie, who will review our brand and category performance.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Gina. In the fourth quarter, customers responded well to our holiday assortment which included both Christmas favorites and cozy new fragrance additions. We are an affordable luxury brand with covetable gift offerings and a key tenet of our holiday strategy was offering gifts at all price points. We drove a strong gifting business in the fourth quarter, exceeding our expectations and last year's results with record high gift-set sales and particular strength in overall gifting that last week before Christmas. The season was led by our iconic holiday traditions and top fragrances such as Winter Candy Apple and Vanilla Bean Noel. We brought back these customer favorites in new packaging that spans multiple categories and forms. Offering our customers' favorites in multiple forms is really a competitive differentiator for us, and we find that it drives customer loyalty and purchases.
Our cross-category assortment is the key reason for our customers to come back and visit us each year. We saw success with our ability to tell cohesive and compelling fragrance stories across the shop, which continue to resonate with customers who want to enjoy our fragrances for both body and home. The fragrance stories that performed well during the quarter include core fragrances, such as Champagne Toast, returning holiday favorites such as Fresh Balsam, and new fragrances, such as Strawberry Snowflakes. Our men's business continues to be our fastest-growing category in body care as we test new forms and merchandising ideas. In the fourth quarter, for the first time, we launched a new single fragrance launch for the men's business, After Dark. The response to this launch exceeded our expectations. And we will leverage the significant insights we gained from it to guide future innovation. Soaps continued to perform well, outpacing the total shop. Our new packaging and holiday sense met the customer's mindset during this time of year and really drove demand. We continue to expand our formulation that's made without paraben, sulfate or dyes. Our relaunch of our gel soap has performed well, and we see opportunities for meaningful future growth through this forum. We've been able to maintain our strong market leadership position in the sanitizer business. Though as expected, we continue to see a shift out of this category, which we know surged during the pandemic. Body care outperformed in the fourth quarter, led by body lotion and cleansers. Our customers continue to show their affinity for our body care collection as our unit sales exceeded last year's fourth quarter. Travel also outpaced other categories as customers continue to increase their mobility post pandemic. Home fragrance was down compared to last year as expected. However, we achieved the most successful Candle Day in our history as customers continue to come and celebrate one of their favorite holidays. Innovation and newness are key drivers of our business and we look ahead to spring, we are focused on delivering fresh and compelling new scents, such as our new Among the Clouds and Coco Paradise. We also have some exciting new product expansions to our Gingham fragrance portfolio coming from Mother's Day as well as additional launches later in the year. As part of our continued focus on delivering innovation and newness, we've rolled out men's antiperspirant deodorant to our entire chain, and we are seeing very promising results. We look forward to further expanding our men's portfolio later in the year. We recently also launched a new signature tumbler in candles which rounds out our candle portfolio and offers a burn time of 30 to 50 hours. We continue to increase our assortment of scent control -- Wallflower heaters that offer customers choice and how much scent to enjoy in each room of the house. We're also expanding our wellness collection that is geared toward elevating our customers' daily wellness routine with curated collections for body and home. And we will continue our sustainability initiatives. Later this year, we're excited to be offering cartons that enable our customers to refill their soap containers and minimize waste. The customer is always at the center of our innovation process, and we will continue to add new compelling products and packaging as we work to expand our brand's global potential. We're also building capabilities to better connect with our customers and drive margin expansion through more personalized marketing initiatives and more targeted promotions. And with that, I'll turn it over to Wendy.
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Julie. Starting with our fourth quarter results, we were pleased to have exceeded our beginning of quarter guidance. We generated earnings from continuing operations per diluted share of $1.86. These results exceeded our guidance of $1.45 to $1.65 per share. This was primarily driven by a better-than-expected margin rate due principally to transportation cost improvement and a favorable inventory position leading to less clearance activity as well as lower SG&A expense compared to our expectations.
Net sales for the quarter were $2.9 billion, a decline of 5% compared to last year, driven by a decrease in both transactions and average dollar sale. Our customer continued to be price sensitive given the macroeconomic pressures. Fourth quarter net sales were up 29% compared to 2019. In our U.S. and Canadian stores, fourth quarter sales were $2.08 billion, a decrease of 5% versus the prior year. Store sales increased 19% compared to 2019. Fourth quarter direct sales of $716 million decreased 6% compared to last year but increased 66% compared to 2019. Our customers continue to take advantage of our omni-focused option of buy online-pick up in store or BOPIS, and frequently add to their purchase in store. As a reminder, BOPIS sales are recognized as store sales. We have rolled BOPIS capabilities to over 800 additional stores in 2022, and we currently have BOPIS availability in more than 1,300 stores overall. For the fourth quarter, international sales were $95 million and grew 30% versus last year. As a reminder, our international operations are primarily conducted through franchise, license and wholesale partners and our recognized sales include royalties and wholesale product sales. Total international system-wide retail sales were approximately $250 million in the fourth quarter and $700 million in the full year of 2022. The gross margin rate for the fourth quarter decreased by 480 basis points to 43%, this was driven by a significant decline in the merchandise margin rate and buying and occupancy expense deleverage due primarily to lower sales and increased labor costs in our distribution and fulfillment network. The merchandise margin rate decline was primarily driven by increased product costs due to continued inflationary pressure in raw materials, transportation and labor as well as incremental promotions to drive sales. Inflationary pressures totaled approximately $60 million in the fourth quarter. Our average unit retail or AUR was down low single digits in the quarter and slightly better than expectations and what we experienced in the third quarter. We continue to focus on disciplined expense management, given sales trends and macroeconomic uncertainty. This resulted in better-than-expected SG&A expense for the quarter. Total SG&A deleveraged by 190 basis points, with technology expense accounting for approximately 100 basis points of pressure. As we have previously mentioned, we are making important strategic investments to enable future growth, and this includes investing in technology as part of our IT separation. Store wage rates also drove an additional 70 basis points of deleverage as we increase customer-facing associates' wages to stay competitive while ensuring that we manage labor hours in line with sales expectations. Taking all of this into consideration, fourth quarter total company operating income was $653 million or 22.6% of net sales. Turning to the balance sheet. Total inventories ended the quarter flat compared to last year, better than our expectations due to disciplined inventory management. Finished goods retail units were down 5% compared to last year, also better than our expectations. The difference between flat dollars and a unit decrease of 5% is due primarily to inflationary pressures in product cost, which was partially offset by lower component inventory compared to last year. Our inventory is clean, and we are well positioned heading into the new year with agility in our supply chain. Importantly, our overall real estate portfolio continues to be very healthy. Approximately 99% of our store fleet is profitable, and our stores continue to significantly outperform pre-pandemic levels, led by strength in our non-mall location. In 2022, we permanently closed 48 stores for the full year, principally in malls. We opened 95 new off-mall North American stores in 2022, resulting in net square footage growth of about 5% for the full year. For international, we had record store growth through our partnership model in 2022, ending the year with 427 stores. Next, before I outline our fiscal '23 guidance, I'll describe our core performance from 2019 to 2022, which we believe will help to better evaluate our progress going forward. I encourage you to review the supplemental slides posted on our Investor Relations website for additional details. Starting with 2019, baseline Bath & Body Works revenue was $5.4 billion, gross margin was 44% and operating margin was 19.2%. Sales in 2022 were up 40% as compared to 2019 with a balanced contribution from unit and AUR growth. And while we are guiding to lower sales in 2023, we remain confident in achieving our $10 billion sales target. While operating margin has declined 100 basis points compared to 2019, we drove 32% growth in operating income dollars. The decrease in rate was predominantly driven by over 500 basis points of cost inflation, 140 basis points of technology and transition expenses associated with our separation from Victoria's Secret and 70 basis points of pressure from store wages, which was partially offset by leverage on sales growth and AUR increases. We were able to offset a portion of the inflation pressure with pricing, but as many other retailers saw, the customer became more price sensitive in 2022. This limited our ability to increase AUR. As Gina described, we are focused on developing a more targeted, personalized marketing approach to grow our customer base and drive visits. At the same time, we are working to decrease our reliance on broad promotion which should increase our merchandise margin. We expect that cost inflation will begin to subside after the first quarter of this year. As for technology expenses, our IT efforts and investments through the end of the summer are focused on completing our separation activities. Beyond separation, we are focused on building new capabilities to drive profitable sales growth. These include advancing our loyalty program, supporting advanced analytics, evolving our marketing strategy and bolstering our omnichannel capabilities. Our model assumes that technology costs will continue at current levels as we roll off separation-related costs, establish our stand-alone capabilities and team, and invest strategically to drive future growth. As Gina indicated earlier, we are partnering with external advisers to closely evaluate our cost structure and take action to offset what we see as ongoing cost pressures in both gross margin and SG&A as well as to fund our strategic investments. We are early in this process, but we are targeting $200 million of annual cost savings, of which over half is included in our 2023 outlook, primarily impacting the second half of the year. We expect to realize a substantial portion of the remaining benefits in 2024. Our efforts are broad-based, with opportunities in transportation, product margin, store operations, home office expense and indirect spend. We have recently initiated this work and look forward to sharing more with you in upcoming quarters. As we move past recent and near-term challenges and realize the benefits of our profit optimization initiatives, we are targeting industry-leading operating margins of 20% and with gross margin of approximately 45% and an SG&A rate of approximately 25%. Turning now to our fiscal '23 financial outlook. Today, we are providing our 2023 outlook with comparison to 2022. Please note that fiscal '23 will include a 53rd week, so the fourth quarter of fiscal 2023 will consist of 14 weeks. Our outlook includes the impact of the 53rd week, which we estimate at $0.07 per diluted share. Our forecast takes into consideration ongoing macroeconomic uncertainty and expected customer sentiment. For the full year, we are forecasting flat sales to a mid-single-digit sales decline. Our range assumes a continuation of fourth quarter sales trends for the first half of 2023 and a moderate improvement in the back half of the year as we anniversary softening sales trends. Quickly reading and reacting to changing business trends is part of our DNA. We will leverage our vertically integrated supply chain and our industry-leading agility to chase demand and maximize sales. We will also work to drive growth through our loyalty program as these customers make more visits and have higher spend than other customers. Our current customer segmentation work is also designed to lead to more efficient and effective marketing. Our international business continues to provide healthy and margin accretive growth to our business, we are forecasting double-digit international net sales growth in 2023. We expect full year gross margin rate to be approximately 42%, we expect inflationary costs will continue in the first quarter and begin to moderate as we move through the year. We are forecasting AURs roughly flat but we'll continue to test for opportunities to increase AURs and expand margin through more data-driven, targeted marketing efforts. We also expect buying and occupancy expense to deleverage, driven by lower sales and our investments in direct fulfillment capabilities to drive future omnichannel growth, partially offset by the benefits of our profit organization work. Our plan assumes a full year SG&A rate of approximately 26% with deleverage primarily driven by increased store wage rates, technology and -- technology, partially offset by the benefits of our cost optimization work. We expect full year net nonoperating expense of approximately $320 million, an effective tax rate of approximately 26% and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 231 million. Considering all of these inputs, we are forecasting full year earnings from continuing operations per diluted share to be between $2.50 and $3. Turning to capital expenditures. We are planning for approximately $300 million to $350 million in 2023. The majority of our capital is focused on investments to support future growth. We are planning for continued investments in select remodels and new off-mall store opening. We are also investing in our technology, distribution and logistics capabilities to support growth. Approximately $35 million of planned capital expenditures relate to payments which shifted out of 2022 into 2023. This year, we are planning approximately 115 total real estate projects consisting of approximately 90 new off-mall stores and 25 remodels to the White Barn store design, offset by about 50 mall closures. In all, this yields square footage growth of approximately 4%. We expect to generate free cash flow of $600 million to $700 million in fiscal '23. I'll now turn to our first quarter '23 outlook. For the first quarter, we are forecasting low to mid-digit sales declines. We expect the first quarter gross margin rate to be approximately 41%. The decline versus last year is principally driven by an expected lower merchandise margin rate and deleverage in buying and occupancy. We are forecasting slight AUR declines adjusted for mix, as we anticipate continued customer price sensitivity. Our forecast includes approximately $20 million of incremental inflationary cost increases in the first quarter related to raw materials, wages and transportation. Buying and occupancy expenses are also forecasted to deleverage, driven by the sales decline and our new direct-to-consumer fulfillment center as it ramps up operations in the first and second quarter. We expect our first quarter SG&A rate to be approximately 30% of sales, with the rate increase driven largely by investments in technology and increased store associate wages. We expect first quarter net nonoperating expense of approximately $80 million, a tax rate of approximately 27% and weighted average diluted shares outstanding of approximately 230 million. Considering all of these outputs, we are forecasting first quarter earnings from continuing operations per diluted share of $0.17 to $0.27. Our forecast for the first quarter assumes a continuation of current softer demand trends and elevated inflation and wage pressures. However, this is not reflective of our expectations for the full fiscal year because we anticipate that certain headwinds such as inflation and wage pressures will moderate in the second half. Turning to inventory. We have entered 2023, as I said, with a very clean inventory position. We expect to end the first quarter with a slight decrease in both inventory dollars and units compared to the first quarter of 2022. With regard to capital allocation, we are committed to taking a balanced and disciplined approach. Our first priority is investing in the business to drive profitable growth by significantly improving the customer experience, supporting advancement in existing and new product categories, investing in new off-mall stores and remodels, improving our fulfillment capabilities, completing our IT separation and standing up critical new technology capabilities. We are also committed to returning cash to our shareholders. We plan to continue paying an annual dividend of $0.80 per share with an intention to increase the dividend over time as earnings increase. Turning to capital structure. We are ending the year with a gross adjusted debt-to-EBITDA leverage ratio of 3.1x, above our target of approximately 2.5x. On a net basis, our leverage ratio is 2.4x. Although we are above our target, we remain confident we will return to our target range over time. We have no debt maturities until 2025 and a total of approximately $600 million coming due over the next 4 years. By comparison, in 2022, we generated over $600 million of free cash flow after our regular dividend. We estimate that we are starting the year with $700 million more cash than we need to fund our forecasted working capital needs for the year. We will evaluate the best use of our cash as we go through the year and we gain better visibility into macroeconomic trends. We are considering options such as debt repayment and share repurchases. In planning for the year, we believe that it is prudent to acknowledge the macroeconomic pressures continuing to impact our customers and their spending habits as well as the current trends of the business. We are striving to exceed our forecast, leveraging our agile vertically integrated supply chain to chase demand and building capabilities to drive profitable sales growth in the future. And as Gina and I mentioned earlier, we are working with external advisers on a comprehensive review of opportunities to support our profit expansion. Taking a refreshed view of our core business will enable us to move forward confidently in pursuing growth opportunities. That concludes our prepared comments. I will turn it over to Heather.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Wendy. Before we open it up for Q&A, we want to briefly address the recent disclosure by Third Point. We issued a response last night. The Board will respond in due course to Third Point as appropriate. With that said, the purpose of today's call is to discuss our fourth quarter and fiscal year results, and we ask that you keep questions focused on those results. [Operator Instructions] We'll now move to the Q&A session. Danielle?
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from Jay Sole with UBS.
Jay Sole:
I guess what I'm curious about is some of the cost inflation and maybe what's been incremental that you've seen over the last 90 days. Just help us understand sort of the difference between the margin outlook for this year compared to the margin outlook for last year?
Heather Hollander:
Okay. Thanks, Jay. Wendy, would you like to take that?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. Great. Thank you, Jay, for the question. Yes. So in terms of inflation, as we've talked about in previous calls, there's 3 main groups of pressure points for us, raw materials and components, transportation and I would say wages and other. So first, I'll cover raw materials. We have specifically -- and one of our key raw materials is candle wax. And we are seeing, and I think I mentioned this in the last call, some improvement in costing in candle wax. So we are down to 2022 levels but still up to pre-pandemic, but we are seeing some green shoots.
In terms of the rest of the raw materials, I would describe the markets in terms of what we're seeing as generally flattish. We are hoping for continued declines, but we aren't seeing or planning for significant deflation in the other components of our raw materials yet. So hopefully, that comes to fruition, but I would describe those markets as stable. In terms of transportation, what we're seeing is that volume does continue to be down in [ almost], which is great because that's creating excess capacity, which provides us options in terms of carrier selections, et cetera. So if we break it down into our 3 main pieces. In terms of trucking or line haul, we are in the process of doing our annual bidding with our partners. So we look at those contracts in the first quarter of every year after holiday. And our initial -- we're in the middle of the process, but we are seeing a decline year-over-year in our initial work here, which is good for us. And that is providing deflation for us in line haul starting in the second quarter, and that is factored into our guidance. In terms of parcel, which is another piece of transportation, we have seen surcharges declining, but the base rates actually are increasing. So right now, parcel, we aren't seeing major deflation and it's generally flat from a year-over-year basis. And then the final piece for us in transportation is Final Mile, which we are seeing continued pressure points just due to -- primarily to labor. So overall from transportation, we do have some deflation, as I said, starting in Q2, driven by line haul, which is in our guidance. Lastly, labor over the last 2 years or 3 years, I should say, we have seen wage pressures in labor, which we've talked about. Good news is I would describe what we're forecasting now as a relatively flat model in terms of inflation from our -- either -- if I'm talking about vendor wages or our distribution or fulfillment centers. We are seeing that solidified for the course of the entire year. So when you add all that up, we are forecasting, as we said in the remarks, pressure in Q1 but it should start to deflate, so to speak, in Q2, and then we'll get a better outcome in fall.
Jay Sole:
And if I can just ask one more. I think you mentioned you're still targeting 20% EBIT margin. Did you put a time frame around that? Around when you believe the company will get back to that level?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. We are, and as you know, 20%, we do believe is best-in-class, and we think it is the right level for us. We don't want to obviously want to limit ourselves to 20%, but we think it's the right rate that -- where we can balance investment in the business as well as maximize our shareholder returns. Time frame is difficult to say. As you know, we're working hard to maximize margins, and we will continue to try and get there as quickly as we can.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Alex Straton with Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Great. Congrats on a good quarter here. I just wanted to kind of follow up on that 20% EBIT margin target. It feels like a pretty big jump from here to there, though admittedly, you guys have been able to do that in the past. So can you just bridge the gap for me between -- I think it's about a 16-ish percent margin this year to that 20% longer term? Like what are the key puts and takes there that we should be thinking about?
Heather Hollander:
Thank you, Alex. Wendy, do you want to take that one?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Yes. So as we model and think about the future, the first, and I'll just kind of work my way down the P&L. The first is obviously net sales. We want to grow net sales. We're committed to growing that top line. And a lot of the pressure points we're seeing in 2023 are deleverage -- that you get when you have a guide that has a negative sales number in it. So leverage on sales growth is obviously important for us to get back to that 20%.
The other thing I would say on top line, on sales, which will help our rate is we are always focused on how do we grow AURs in a way that is positive for our customers. So we talked a lot about how this business has test and learning in our DNA. We are literally testing pricing combinations every weekend to learn, to see how we can grow AURs but do in a way that it still resonates with the customer. So as we continue to do that over the time, our AURs will increase and help margins. If you look at the long history of this company for the last 10 years, we have consistently, pre-pandemic, been able to grow AURs in the low to in some years mid-single-digit range. So we know that as we innovate and deliver a compelling assortment and newness, we can get AUR growth over time. So that's sales, very, very key to getting back to the 20%. And then the other thing is margin. Right now our merchandise margin rates in our guide are below pre-pandemic level. We've talked a lot about inflation, as I said, we've got some deflation coming this year. But at some point, hopefully, that there's a little bit more, but that will be paired obviously with the AUR increase to increase profit rates. And then the last thing I would say is on expenses, as we mentioned, we are doing a comprehensive review of our organization and our indirect spend and where we spend money. And our goal is to optimize it for the size of the business, and we are internally extremely focused on getting to that 20% and that is part of our goal as we look to optimize the organization and our spend profile.
Alexandra Straton:
Great. Maybe just one quick follow-up. It feels like part of the bigger SG&A guide this year is really related to kind of tech spending. So can you just walk us through sort of what the shortcomings you feel are there? Or what exactly you're trying to improve? Just so we have a better sense.
Wendy Arlin:
Absolutely. So I would say through -- the beginning of the year through end of summer, we are focused on separation from Victoria's Secret. So our -- the majority of our spend is to that end. And we're also in the process, obviously, as we'll be ending that TSA of establishing our own organization, our team, our partners, et cetera. So that is where we're focused on for the first part of the year.
Once we complete that separation, we're excited to complete it because that allows us to unlock our future. And as we talked about, we see lots of opportunities to invest. You heard both me and Gina talk about it in the marketing space, whether that's loyalty or whether it's how we market to customers, in data analytics, we see huge opportunity to use really smart data analytics to drive marketing, drive promotions. So it's really in areas that are customer facing where we want to invest, and that is what we're focused on in the back half of the year.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Great. So maybe dual-part question, Gina, could you elaborate on the cadence of business trends maybe as the fourth quarter progressed. Any notable change in business that you've seen post holiday here in January or February? And then Wendy, on AUR, where have you seen customers the most price-sensitive across categories? And just how best to think about your AUR plan for the first half of the year maybe relative to your back half expectation?
Heather Hollander:
Okay. Thanks for the question, Matt. Actually, Wendy, do you want to start with that?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. So Thanks, Matt, for the question. So let's start with the 4Q and the story of how it progressed. So for us, we -- our softest month of the quarter was November. You heard a lot of other retailers comment on that. So we -- as consistent with other retailers, the softest part of the quarter were the first 3 weeks of November.
As we progressed into December, we saw improvements in trends, including improvements in traffic, and in particular, in the month of December, Julie mentioned Candle Day, we were pleased with that at the beginning of December. But in particular, we saw very strong sales performance in weeks 4 and 5 of December. So the week before Christmas and the week after Christmas is very strong for us. January continued to be strong. We had a nice first 2 weeks in January, especially when we were starting our semiannual sale. So overall, strong December and January relatively and November was our most challenging month of the quarter. In terms of AUR, so you heard us mentioned in our prepared remarks, right now, we're planning the AURs in the first quarter to be down slightly. I mean our promotional overall promotion approach in Q1 will look fairly similar to what you saw last year, but we're forecasting AURs to be down slightly. For the full year, we're forecasting it to be roughly flat. As I mentioned, we, of course, are chasing to improve that result and we'll take price ups and reduce promotions to the extent we can without damaging margin dollars, but that is our overall approach. And I'm going to let Julie add some color.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So I just want to mention that we have been very slowly and methodically been raising our prices this spring. So our everyday price ups have actually been performing very well. For example, we have soaps that 5 for $27 from 5 for $25 or wallflowers in that same deal 5 for $27, where they've been 5 for $25. And we're not seeing any price resistance from our customer. We've also increased prices across the board where we are implementing a good, better, best strategy, and we believe that, that will help us.
Where we are seeing some price sensitivity is in our promos. So in the short term, we're continuing to balance the need to keep the engagement on traffic strong with our desire to increase pricing and have a very agile operating model. So that will allow us to increase or decrease promotional activity in a meaningful way and test for the best outcomes. I do just want to remind everyone, our AURs are up to close to 20% by -- from 2019. And we do, as Wendy said, have a track record of being able to raise our AURs positively in the low single digits, and we hope to continue to do that. So our guidance assumes that promotional levels are roughly flat to last year, and we're going to read and react and maximize every dollar we can out of this performance.
Matthew Boss:
Wendy, just one follow-up. On the 20% operating margin target, I know that's relative to low to mid-20s in your previous plan. Is the change in the long-term operating margin target, is it driven by a lower gross margin assumption longer term?
Wendy Arlin:
Well, I would say a couple of things. As you know, the reality is, in the last 2 years, we've seen some major type of increases in input costs that I just talked about, labor and we've also recognized as we've worked on separation and thought about the future that there are certain parts of our business like technology that require additional investment to future growth. So I think it's both wanting to invest and also just a recognition that we've had major inflationary pressures in the business.
So we -- as I mentioned earlier, we do think that this is the right balanced target for the business to allow for the investment for the future, but also deliver a return for our shareholders.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Kate McShane with Goldman Sachs.
Katharine McShane:
We were curious to hear a little bit more detail about what role the loyalty program played in the fourth quarter and what you're assuming the lift could be from loyalty in Q1 and your overall 2023 sales guidance?
Heather Hollander:
All right. Thanks, Kate. Wendy do you want to take that one?
Wendy Arlin:
I think Julie -- but I can add color.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So we can tag team on this one. So we are very pleased, very pleased with our enrollment in the program. We projected to be about 30 million members by the end of the fiscal year, and we enrolled 33 members with more than 75% of those members, having shopped with us in the last 12 months. And as we've discussed on other calls, we all know that loyalty members outperformed nonloyalty in spend, trips, retention and cross-channel shopping behavior. So I think that we have a huge opportunity. We think about '22 as the year of enrollment, and we're thinking about '23 as our year of engagement.
So our strategic path forward is to really capitalize on the very high rate of data collection that allows us to both identify and market to enrolled customers. So with customer segmentation and advanced analytics work that will allow us to customize our loyalty offering to maximize enrollment and engagement. We can also attract more customers by fully integrating our loyalty program across social, physical and all of our digital interactions. We want to test and try to influence member behavior by leveraging points-based incentives to drive incremental trips, trial of new product, and we will be pivoting to more member-only events, content and engagement as we have seen our sneak peaks and our exclusives be very successful.
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Julie. The only thing I would add, Kate, to your question is we did -- as you know, we had a loyalty program in test before we did the nationwide launch in August. So we did have some markets that were in test where we could measure the performance on a pre-post basis. So when we did that, we did see a moderate lift in the fall season on a pre-post basis, and that's good.
But what we're -- I'm really excited about from a financial upside standpoint, which Julie mentioned is now that we have got the program and we've got the members, and we have a lot of members the opportunities for us to use the data collection, to improve our marketing and drive transactions with these customers is to me where I see the key upside for the future.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Kelly Crago:
This is Kelly Crago on for Paul. I wanted to dig a little further into your kind of longer-term framework around the top line. I think you mentioned you believe you can sort of grow AURs low single digits over the longer term. I guess when we think about it, top line, does that assume the coming units flattish and we should sort of take low single-digit top line growth, comp growth? And then maybe a couple of points square footage. Just curious if you could provide a little bit more color on that.
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. So as you think about a multiyear model, I mean, we are still focused on, as you mentioned, delivering comp growth, and we believe, over time, we can do that in the, let's say, low single digits, we are always chasing for mid-single digits or higher. And what we've been able to do the last couple of years is we've been able to do that in a balanced way through both units and AURs. So that -- if we can do both units and AURs, obviously, we can get to a low to mid comp growth, but we're focused on doing both on a multiyear basis.
You also mentioned square footage. We do expect that we will get a benefit from square footage growth let's say, in the low single digits over time. So those will be key drivers for our store revenue growth as we think about a multiyear model. You've also heard us talk today about international. And although right now, that's a small part of the business. To me, that's the exciting thing because it's small today, and we see lots of opportunity for meaningful double-digit growth on a multiyear basis as we expand internationally throughout the world. So that is a key part of our growth algorithm in the future.
Kelly Crago:
And Wendy you mentioned that in 1Q that the cost inflation was going to be a $20 million headwind to gross margins but that shouldn't stay as we go forward. Does that turn from a headwind to a tailwind in 2Q? Or is it just less of a headwind? And I guess, how does that -- how should we kind of think about the gross margin progressing throughout the year?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. It turns to a tailwind in Q2. I would say the tailwind right now is about $10 million in Q2, but we will, of course, chase that. Hopefully, it's a bigger number.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I wanted to follow up on the gross margin guidance for the year. It does sound like after the first quarter, most of the inflationary pressure has actually flipped to positive, yet your guidance assumes a flattish gross margin for the rest of the year after the first quarter. Can you just bucket the pressures that you're expecting in those quarters 2 through 4 to offset these benefits from inflation and transport flipping?
Heather Hollander:
Thanks, Lorraine. Wendy do you want to take that one?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. So yes, on a full year, we do still have some pressure on both product -- merch margin, product margin and deleverage on P&L. Our AURs, as I mentioned, are roughly flat. So we've got a little bit of forecasted AUC growth greater than AURs, which is pressuring there. The other area we're seeing pressure is in buying and occupancy. So we've got some deleverage in store occupancy because as we've invested in stores, and that's a good investment, it's delivering a return it does delever in a negative comp model which is implied in our range. And then we've also got some deleverage on buying.
As I mentioned, we are focused on all lines of the P&L in terms of getting additional favorability. And so it's not just expenses. We're also looking at continued upside in product margin that we'll be chasing to improve the results.
Operator:
Our final question comes from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Gina, I was hoping just higher level, maybe what you think about the right price versus 2019 architecture should be. Just curious how you're thinking about maybe the right balance between revenues and gross margin? Clearly, you guys got a lot of really nice AUR, you got great brand equity. You also may have had a little bit of over purchasing through the pandemic. So just any thoughts there on how to balance revs and gross margins.
Heather Hollander:
Thanks for the question, Simeon. Gina, maybe if you want to start off with the focus on how we're growing sales in '23. And then Wendy, if you want to follow up with some detail there.
Gina Boswell:
So just so I'm sure -- clear on the question. Did you say the balance between revenue and gross margin in [ 2023 ]?
Simeon Siegel:
Yes. Yes, you guys earned a lot of price and a lot of brand equity. So I'm just curious how you're thinking about promotions versus units just thinking about the balance there.
Gina Boswell:
Yes. So we -- you probably hear it in not only maybe all 3 of our remarks around promotions and how we're trying to -- well, first of all, Julie, just talked about testing some of the lifts and so forth. But really, it's not -- it's more about broad-based promotions and which are kind of a blunt instrument. And so what we're trying to do is leverage the data and analytics to target the promotions to where they're needed most. One of the things that I've been focusing on since arriving is really building the marketing sort of infrastructure. We're doing some really exciting customer segmentation that's linking with our loyalty program. And inside of all that capability is really driving much more effective and efficient promotions.
And so that gives me the confidence in terms of how we can maybe move that up and have the margin and the AURs support both top line and merch margins. So that's a huge area of focus. We have not had that before, and we're going to probably see that towards the back half because we're still building that capability. So that was sort of on the promotion piece. But I think you had another longer-term comment as well that -- Wendy that was you...
Heather Hollander:
That answer your question, Simeon?
Simeon Siegel:
Yes, yes, that's helpful. Yes, Gina, it's more just trying to get a feel for as you look at the company as you look at -- you have the benefit of taking kind of the objective view of how you look at that 2019 versus where we are now. So that's really helpful. Wendy, can I just follow up on the last one. Do you know offhand what the implied occupancy and other fixed cost deleverage would be embedded within the full year revenue guidance?
Wendy Arlin:
So our -- yes, our occupancy expense for full year, we've got a forecast at plus 5%. So it's about around 50, 60 basis points of deleverage.
Heather Hollander:
We want to thank you for joining today's call. A replay will be available for 90 days on our website. Thank you for your interest in Bath & Body Works.
Operator:
That concludes today's conference. Thank you all for participating. You may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Danielle, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Third Quarter 2022 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Wendy Arlin, Chief Financial Officer at Bath & Body Works. Wendy, you may begin.
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Danielle. Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works Third Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ended October 29, 2022. As a matter of formality, any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases.
Joining me on the call today are Executive Chair of the Board and Interim CEO, Sarah Nash; and Brand President, Julie Rosen. All of the results we discuss today are adjusted and exclude the charges related to the early extinguishment of debt in 2021. Additionally, the results represent results from continuing operations and exclude the discontinued operations related to Victoria's Secret. I will now turn the call over to Sarah.
Sarah Nash:
Thanks, Wendy, and thank you, everyone, for joining the call today. Let's start with our third quarter results. We are pleased to have delivered EPS of $0.40, double the high end of our guidance range. Given the strong bottom line results, we are raising our full year EPS guidance to $3 to $3.20 from our prior guidance range of $2.70 to $3.
Our sales for the quarter were at the high end of our expectations and reflected our team's closeness to our customer, our focus on innovation and newness and our success in leveraging our vertically-integrated supply chain to chase key winners. Our nationwide launch of our loyalty program has been a great success. We achieved industry-leading speed in customer adoption in our program with over 21 million members enrolled to date. Loyalty members now make up more than 1/3 of our overall customer base and loyalty sales represent about 2/3 of our total U.S. sales since launch. We are excited about the potential of this program as our loyalty customers spend more, visit us more and have significantly higher retention rates than those not in the program. We continue to take rigorous actions to improve profitability, including proactively revisiting our promotions and pricing plans as well as product costing to improve merchandise margins. Additionally, we are actively working with our vendor base to streamline operations to combat inflationary pressures and improve product cost without compromising our focus on quality. We have also implemented several expense reduction actions during the quarter, including optimization of corporate overhead and store selling expenses. We will continue our focus in this area given the challenging business environment. Before I turn it back to Wendy, I'd like to share my perspective on our recent CEO announcement and the company's overall positioning. Our Board was very thoughtful as we conducted the search for our next CEO. We were delighted that we found in Gina, the global omnichannel personal care company leader that we were looking for. Gina brings more than 30 years of experience, including leadership roles at global companies such as. Unilever, Alberto-Culver Company and the Estee Lauder Companies. She has deep expertise in sales, marketing, brand building and business development and strategy along with strong operational experience and a demonstrated track record of delivering successful business outcomes. The Board is confident Gina is the right leader to drive the company's next chapter of growth across our channels and categories globally while delivering enhanced value for shareholders. During my time as interim CEO, I have been impressed by the talent and dedication of the Bath & Body Works team. I'd like to thank the company's management team and all our associates for their commitment to driving innovation and agility and to enhancing our customers' experience. I am confident that Bath & Body Works will continue to capitalize on our tremendous potential to expand our brand globally. Wendy?
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Sarah. I will be providing financial highlights, but I encourage you to review our slides, posted remarks and press release, which each contain additional details. For the third quarter, as Sarah said, we reported EPS of $0.40.
These better-than-expected results compared to our guidance of $0.10 to $0.20 per share were driven primarily by a better margin rate due principally to category mix and transportation expense favorability, together with SG&A expense favorability. In U.S. and Canada stores, third quarter sales were $1.18 billion, a decrease of $60 million or 5% compared to last year. Sales were up $306 million or 35% compared to 2019. Third quarter direct sales were $345 million, a decrease of $24 million or 6% compared to 2021. Customers continue to choose our omni focused option of buy online, pick up in store or BOPIS. We ended the third quarter with BOPIS availability in more than 1,280 stores. Our international business sales for the third quarter were $81 million, an increased 10% compared to last year. Our international business continues to perform consistent with expectations. Our third quarter recognized revenues were negatively impacted by timing shifts related to product shipments. Now to guidance for the remainder of the year. For the fourth quarter of 2022, we expect sales to decrease between mid-single digits to low double digits compared to 2021 sales of 3.027 billion. We are forecasting fourth quarter EPS to be between $1.45 and $1.65 per share. For the full year, we are forecasting sales to be down mid-single digits compared to $7.9 billion in 2021. Our full year guidance contemplates inflationary costs, totaling $220 million to $230 million and the estimated revenue deferral impact from the loyalty program rollout of approximately $40 million. Now on to the balance sheet. Total inventories ended the quarter up 10% compared to last year, better than expectations. Finished goods retail units were up 7% compared to last year, in line with expectations. The difference between dollar growth and unit growth is due primarily to inflationary pressures and product costs, partially offset by lower component inventory compared to last year. The finished good unit increase relates to categories that were very lean last year, particularly soaps and body care. We are confident that our inventory is well positioned to support a strong holiday season. We believe our guidance reflects a disciplined expense and inventory management approach in light of the dynamic operating environment. At the same time, we continue to be strategic about the investments we make to support the growth of the business, including investments in products, technology and omni capabilities. I will now turn the call over to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Wendy. For the third quarter, we saw customers responding well to our iconic fall sense in multiple forms of fragrances and packaging. Our top fragrances such as Leeds, Pumpkin Pecan waffles and sweater weather in multiple categories in forms continues to be a unique point of differentiation for the brand.
Our men's business continued to significantly outpace the shop as we test new forms and merchandising ideas to further fuel this growing business, including through the launch of leather and brandy and coffee and whiskey. In the fourth quarter, we launched AfterDark, a new single fragrance for the men's business. Soap also continued to perform well, outpacing the shop as we continue to expand our new formulation that is made without parabens, sulfate or dyes. Our relaunch of Jel soap has been performing very well. and we see opportunities for meaningful growth through this forum. As expected, we continue to see a shift out of our sanitizer business, which accelerated during the pandemic. Body Care also outpaced the shop in the third quarter, buying fragrance kit had a strong quarter that was bolstered by our new fragrance Fall And Bloom that met the customer mindset during this time of year. As part of our effort to focus on customers and deliver on innovation and newness, we start aluminum vessels and soaps this past quarter, and expect to begin testing cartons that will enable our customers to refill their soap containers in 2023. In men's, we introduced antiperspirant deadodarant, which is already in 650 stores and will roll to the balance of chain in spring of 2023. We also recently launched a test of mask [indiscernible], our new line of face and hair care products and dietary supplements, online and in 11 stores. We're in the early stages of this launch, and we are listening and learning. This is always an exciting time of year we have a mix of returning holiday favorites and new giftable offerings. As an affordable luxury brand, we have gifts at all price points. As we further expand our loyalty program and introduce compelling new product assortment, we are confident that we will continue to deepen our relationships with our existing customers and attract new customers to our brand. With that, I'll turn it back to you, Wendy.
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Julie. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you may have. [Operator Instructions] Today, we are going to go to about 9:45. Danielle, I'll turn it over to you.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions]
Our first question comes from Jay Sole with UBS.
Jay Sole:
Great. Could you just talk about how the sales trended through the quarter? And what you're seeing here in November, a lot of other companies have talked about a big slowdown in traffic in the last 2 weeks of October and beginning of November. Can you just talk about what you've seen and sort of what's implied to the guidance for 4Q?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Thanks, Jay. Yes. So as we look back on Q3, what we saw during the course of the quarter was that the customer really did respond to promotion. On the days that we were incrementally promotional year-over-year where we had sharp price points or compelling deals, those days outperformed. And on the days that we were flat last year or less promotional, those days under formed.
So for us, the story of the quarter was really promotion and meeting the customer where their mindset at is, clearly, the customer is very price sensitive. And we saw that. We had planned for it, and we're planning for that in 4Q as well. So in terms of November, our guidance is -- incorporates what we're seeing month to date, and we are prepared to be very sharp and have deals that resonate with our customers during the all-important fourth quarter.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Korinne Wolfmeyer with Piper Sandler.
Korinne Wolfmeyer:
Congrats on the quarter. So I'd just like to ask a little bit on what you're seeing in terms of input costs? I mean that's been a pretty hot topic this quarter for a lot of players, especially within the fragrance category. Can you just talk about any kind of challenges or headwinds you're seeing that and how you're combating that?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Thanks, Korinne, for your question. Yes. As we've talked about in the last several calls, input costs, in particular, in raw materials for us continue to be a challenge. The markets are volatile. They continue to be very elevated in pricing compared to prepandemic. And so it continues to be a pressure point for us, almost -- just over 50% of our inflation pressures that we've quantified our raw materials. And it just does continue to be a pressure point. We have seen a little bit of green shoots in candle wax, but I would describe it as modest and our other input costs continue to be challenged. Now that being said, we're working with our suppliers to mitigate those price increases.
We're looking at opportunities to be smart and how the product cost out, and we're looking for value engineering opportunities as well to mitigate those prices, but the raw materials do continue to be a pressure point for us in our business.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Olivia Tong with Raymond James.
Olivia Tong Cheang:
I wanted to ask you about the loyalty members that are making up 1/3 of your base now? If you could give any insight in terms of whether you think the your certain income level, the how much more they're buying? It looks like if they're a third of your member base in 2/3 of sales, it's obviously quite a big differential between their purchasing levels versus the other 2/3s.
And then I just had -- if I could sneak one more in, just around SG&A performance this quarter and how that influences your thoughts on the pace of improvement into fiscal '23. Because you talked about a handful of expenses last quarter that were higher in second half. So just kind of curious what came in better than expected? Because I imagine that wage inflation, some of the home expenses, those came in, in line with where you had anticipated.
Wendy Arlin:
Great. Thanks, Olivia. We will go to Julie for loyalty and then I'll take SG&A.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So for our loyalty program, we are absolutely thrilled with the program. We're pleased with enrollment and engagement, evidenced by our 65% total company sales.
I think it's important to remember, as Sarah mentioned, that our loyalty customer has a higher retention rate, higher spend, makes more ship and shop more cross-category and more than non-loyalty members. One thing that's very exciting about our loyalty program is that we have exceptional mass rates on member data collection. And this is really going to enable us to help identify trends and changes in customer behavior and the data will help us enhance the effectiveness of our marketing. It will also help us create a more meaningful personalized experience that foster brand connection and capture share of wallet. And we have plans in the future to continue to evolve the program to further drive membership and spend.
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Julie. On the SG&A, so a couple of comments on SG&A. Our SG&A rate has increased compared to last year, which, of course, I know you saw in the numbers. And so [indiscernible], as we talked about in prior calls, I break down the rate increase compared to LY. About 2/3 of it was home office and about 1/3 of it was in our store selling cost structure.
And maybe to start with stores. We made a very planned and thoughtful investment in our store associates as we went into this time period. We did increase wage rates for our store associates, including a premium for the fall season. What we've discovered is that investment has been very successful. Our stores are fully staffed. We had success recruiting. So we're very confident that, that investment will pay off as we go into Q4 because we have great store associates hired and we are ready to go. In terms of the other increase year-over-year, it is home office. As I've talked about, we continue to make investments there as well. So we're in the process of investing in technology to separate from Victoria's Secret. We've also invested in our home office folks as well. In terms of the favorability to beginning of quarter, I would say 2 things are driving it. Number one, as we emphasized in our prepared remarks, we continue to try to manage expenses thoughtfully and frugally during this quarter, we are being very thoughtful about where we spend our money, just given the macro environment out there. So we did see some expense favorably across the board. The other thing that did come in favorable this quarter is our technology spend was favorable to plan. We're just seeing a little bit of ramp-up, the ramp-up in terms of the work on separation occurred a little bit slower than what we expected, but that's going well, but it did result in some expense favorability compared to beginning of quarter expectations.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Ike Boruchow.
Jesse Sobelson:
This is Jesse Sobelson on for Ike. We were just curious for an update on the profitability algorithm with your business. Is it realistic to assume the company could return to its low to mid-20s margin goal next fiscal year?
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Jess, for your question. So I would tell you a couple of things. Number one is you will definitely hear from us in terms of guidance for next year in February. We are thoughtfully thinking about our plans for next year. In terms of things that we're focused on that will impact how we think about our long-range planning, 2 major things come to mind, actually 3.
Number one, as I answered earlier, inflation and cost pressures still do exist in our business. We're working to mitigate those, but those still exist as we turn the calendar into 2023. Number 2 is we do want to be thoughtful on our promotional approach, as we go into 2023. As we said, the customer is extremely price sensitive right now, and we want to be mindful of that and thoughtful with how we price our products in this tough environment. And the third point is we are investing in technology. Right now, we're focused on separation. But as we look beyond separation, we see a lot of ways that we can improve our customer experience, and we're thinking about how do we want to do that and what investments we make there. So more to come when we talk to you in February. And we -- right now, we are focused on winning at Christmas. So we will work as hard as we can to deliver successful Q4. Thank you.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Paul Lejuez.
Paul Lejuez:
I just want to go back to the loyalty program for a second. I'm curious if what you're seeing is when you have a customer, are you seeing that customer actually spend more than they did previously? Or is it more that the folks that are signing up just happen to be your higher-spending customer? I'm kind of curious if you have any data that might show that once you get somebody kind of over that line that they increased their spending anything you could provide there?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Yes. So what we see -- so as a reminder, we've just launched in the U.S. -- nationwide in August. But prior to that we were running a test and a test for a meaningful amount of time.
And what our test showed was that on a decile-adjusted basis, loyalty customers spend more and visit us more often. So in other words, it wasn't just looking at the customers that love us and come all the time. I mean if you decile adjust it and look at levels of spend, the program was effective in test in terms of getting customers to spend more money and visit us more often. So we're very early in the nationwide rollout, but we are very optimistic about the future benefits of this program. We are seeing such high levels of engagement, as Julie indicated. So we do get excited when we think about the loyalty program and what it can do for this business in the future.
Paul Lejuez:
Any quantification of the list?
Wendy Arlin:
So right, we have seen a list. Like I said, it's very early. We just launched in August. So more to come, but we have seen positive results from the program.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Jonna Kim with Cowen.
Jungwon Kim:
Congrats on the quarter. Just wanted to get a little bit more color around your newer categories. It seems like the men's category is doing well and you launched Moxy, which is focused on skin care and hair care. Curious on your strategies going forward and just would love more your thoughts around some marketing initiatives you have around the holiday season around these categories.
Wendy Arlin:
Great. We will go to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So as far as the men's business goes, I know we have said before on these calls that we believe that we can more than double our Men's business. Based on our market data, we continue to increase market share at an accelerated rate, and we are absolutely thrilled with those results. Men's continues to significantly outpace our shop. We launched Leather and Brandy in coffee and whiskey this quarter. They absolutely exceeded our expectations.
The men's business also continues to be our fastest growing category in the total body care. And we continue to test new forms and merchandising ideas to fuel the business. So for instance, as we mentioned, we have been testing Antiperspirant deodorant in about 650 stores and we are thrilled to be rolling this out to all stores in spring. Just as on aside, Antiperspirant deodorant is the #1 form in the men's market. And we know in order to double this business to grow market share, we're going to have to own this form. So we've also been doing a lot of tests in men's. We have some expanded shop-in-shop tests. We have some tests that are just marketing tests. So we are testing not only in products but merchandising and placement. And the goal of these tests is to raise awareness with our current customers as well as to gain new customers so we are very bullish and excited about this business and think it's a great opportunity. As far as MOXY goes, I would say that the assortment is still flowing on site. And again, as we mentioned, it's only in 11 stores. So we are right now at a just learning and listening. So more to come on that.
Wendy Arlin:
She asked us about marketing initiatives holiday, anything on holiday approach.
Julie Rosen:
Yes, you will see marketing initiatives around men's. It's incredibly important business for us, particularly in the fourth quarter because we sell a lot of gifts. We sell gifts at multiple price points. We will have gift sets in men's. And we also launched for the first time this Q4, our first single fragrance launch in men's After Dark.
So we're very, very excited about that. You will see some MOXY marketing, but this is our most important quarter of the year, and we are really buckling down and focusing first and foremost on delivering our core business and learning and listening from MOXY.
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. And Jonna, the only other thing I would add as we go into Q4 is we are really excited about our gifting [ at for men ]. So we know gifting is a huge part of Q4, and we have really been thoughtful about our price points on gifting and showing a guess everybody at every price point. So we think we're well positioned to win in the gifting time of the year.
Julie Rosen:
And just to say, keeping to adding on. But gifting did outperform the shop in Q3 as well. So it really bodes well for Q4. And we offer gifts at a range of price points and quite frankly, we believe -- all of our products are gifts here at BBW. So we are excited about that.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Lorraine Corrine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I just wanted to follow up on Paul's question about the loyalty program. From the other end, the cost side. I know there was a margin impact this quarter as you deferred some revenue and profits. But as you think forward, does the cost of the loyalty program change the earnings algorithm or margin targets in any meaningful way?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. Thanks for your question, Lorraine. So the program does have a cost as you can imagine. So the program design has a reward aspect to it, where when a customer hits $100 threshold, they earn a reward. The program also has a birthday component to it and a welcome offer component to it. So those elements of the program do at cost, it is under a point which is good, and we think it's margin accretive in terms of dollars because we -- as I said earlier, we know those customers spend more and visit us more often.
We do see future opportunity in addition, though, to reduce CRM and direct mail in the future to partially offset the cost of this program. So at the end of the day, we feel that although there is a cost, this program is definitely accretive to the business. The other thing I would say is as we look in the future down the road is we know that we have great data in this program. As Julie mentioned earlier, we full match on this data, and we know that once we have the data, we'll be able to deliver better personalized and individual marketing, which we believe will be much more effective as we really learn to use that data effectively.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Alexandra Straton with Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Congrats on a great quarter. I think some of the script last night mentioned that you all adjusted the pricing architecture for the consumer being more price sensitive. Perhaps you could just elaborate on what you did and how you're thinking about that heading into holiday? And then just one other one for me is on inventory. You had a great decel this quarter from last quarter's levels. but it sounds like you expect that to tick up a little bit next quarter. Could you just talk to us about what's driving that uptick.
Wendy Arlin:
Great. Yes. Thanks, Alex, for your questions. So I think I'll do them in reverse. We'll start with inventory, and then I'll mention a few things on pricing and then hand it over to Julie to talk additionally about pricing. So on inventory, so first of all, we're very pleased with where we are with inventory. We think that we are well positioned to support a strong Q4. As we mentioned in the last call, we entered the season clean, which is extremely important for us. So we are confident in our inventory position. what our inventory consists of, and you saw it in our remarks a little bit, is we have finished goods, of course, that are available for sale.
In addition, we also own componentry that is not yet made, things like pumps or soap, et cetera, et cetera. The biggest driver in terms of Q -- that benefited the Q3 dollar number is that our components were down substantially, mostly because we had in-transit inventory that we were lapping. So if you think about the supply chain challenges a year ago, we had a lot of our componentry that was in transit. So when we reported the dollars this third quarter, we were lapping an elevated in-transit number, which drove the percentage down to the 10%. The guide for Q4 is more normalized assumption on componentry, which is taking our guide up to the mid-teens. So it's not so much a phenomenon of inventory creeping up. It's more just the componentry and what we're anniversarying. In terms of where we're focused on year-end is we have a very -- we are maniacally focused on ending the season clean. We have a goal, as we saw in our prepared remarks to end with units flat year-over-year. We will focus our efforts on selling as much as we can during the all-important holiday time period. And then, of course, we have our semiannual sale that we will use to end the season clean. So we are definitely focused on prioritizing clean inventories. We know that if we end the season clean, it will enable us to start 2023 on a very solid footing. In terms of pricing, as you saw in our remarks, we were more promotional in Q3 year-over-year, and we're planning to be similarly more promotional in Q4 as we look forward. We saw -- as I said earlier, we saw that the customer is extremely price sensitive right now. And we have made our plans to meet the customer where their mindset is in both -- we did that in Q3, and we're planning that in Q4. Julie?
Julie Rosen:
So from a pricing and promo related question, as we enter this holiday season, we are absolutely confident in our strategy to read and react with agility and speed. Our operating model really enables us to effectively manage pricing and promotions to meet the customer minds that and drive profitability. So we are taking a very strategic lens to our pricing architecture Currently, as we've all been saying, the customer is very price sensitive to higher prices.
So we are slowly and methodically raising prices in a way that don't impact our customers very dramatically. Such as reevaluating some of our everyday deals and also increasing prices in our better-for-you formulas. So we continue to use really our robust testing agenda to see where we can raise prices and help to build the basket.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Warren Cheng with Evercore ISI.
Warren Cheng:
I wanted to ask about the 4Q seasonality of your business and whether that's changed since 2019. So if I run the 4Q sales guidance through my model, it's a slight decel on a 1-year trend, but it's a pretty significant decel if I look at it on a 3-year stack and assume that 2018 and 2019 are more representative of normal seasonality. So just wanted to ask if there's any change in that seasonality versus prepandemic or anything unusual about this year that you would call out?
Wendy Arlin:
I would call nothing unusual about this year. I mean, what's unusual is if you -- our growth during pandemic was accelerated. And extremely strong. And over the last 2 years, did vary dramatically as stores during certain periods or reopened, and we were lapping restrictions, et cetera, et cetera. So I think if you go back and look at our business prepandemic versus now, the seasonality is generally consistent.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Great. So Wendy, a number of moving parts in this year's P&L. I guess, is there a way to help quantify the costs that you see as more onetime or more contained to this year? If we think about CEO transition, separation costs versus maybe the IT investments in SG&A, and we have the elevated transportation and the loyalty deferral.
Again, I'm just trying to see if there's any way you can help to provide maybe as it relates -- as we think about opportunity into next year versus costs or investments that you see as more ongoing? Any help would be great.
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Well, I wish I had perfect visibility to the next year, but I'll try and help you out as much as I can. So you heard my conversation a few minutes ago on raw materials. I'm just kind of working my way down the P&L. Raw materials, like I said, they continue to be challenging, and it's a volatile market. And as I said, we'll continue to try and mitigate those costs as best we can. Transportation, we are seeing some favorability in transportation. I'm optimistic that, that will continue into 2023. But TBD on that, but we are seeing some signs that transportation is peaking and potentially will abate in 2023.
You mentioned IT. So you have quantified the IT investments. The thing as we look forward to IT spend, we are currently focused on separation. That work will continue this year into next, with [indiscernible] being separated from Victoria's in 2023. We are working on a road map beyond separation. So right now, we're spending money on separation. We will not spend that money again once we're done. But we really want to be thoughtful about our technology spend. We see a lot of areas of opportunity where we can make investments in the customer experience or an omni capabilities or in our loyalty program or in POS at stores. I mean we see many areas in the business where we can use technology to improve our customer experience. So we're working on road maps and thinking about that currently. And so when we get to February, we'll give a little bit more color on how we're thinking about spending money and technology, but that will be an area we want to continue to invest because at the end of the day, we want to continue to grow this company. You mentioned loyalty. I would say it's a loyalty, as we -- essentially, it will peak the impact, peaks essentially in Q4 in terms of that differed revenue impact that we've talked about. And then once we lap the program in the summer of next year, you won't see that impact. And then I guess the last thing that comes to mind is people. I mean a lot of our contracts -- structure is people. So in SG&A, about 2/3 of our SG&A expenses are stores. And we want to continue to pay the wages that are appropriate to attract great talent. And -- that's been a dynamic space, and we continue to think about what wage rates are appropriate. That's true, actually, not just for stores. That's true for home office as well, just given the current environment we're in. So we'll continue to make the investments in our people as appropriate in the current environment. We have quantified on past calls, as you know that we do have some retention that will -- that is one time that will come off starting next year. And then we do have some CEO transition costs, which will go away in 2023. So lots of moving pieces, and it's a very dynamic environment. We are committed to trying to manage expenses as frugally and as smartly as we can. And we will be back to you in February with a lot more information and guidance as we think about 2023.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research Associates.
Janet Kloppenburg:
And congratulations on the progress. A couple of quick questions. Last year in the fourth quarter, the semiannual sale, I believe, did not meet your expectations. Perhaps you could talk about what's embedded in guidance this year and what some of the opportunities might be year-over-year in terms of promotions and content, et cetera. And just on the men's business, nice rollout. I noticed that perhaps the Cologne ASP is higher on average versus women's. And I wondered if you could talk about that opportunity.
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Janet. Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. As far as the sale goes this year, it will not be quite as long as last year. We have tightened that up. We know that our customer response to newness. So we have a different flow strategy this year to throughout January, be dropping in small drops of newness to offset sales. We also are committed to having clean units at the end of the year. So we are highly cognizant of what we bought for sale and using our agile supply chain to ensure that we're not overbought and that we end clean.
So I think we're very confident that our sale will be short, sweet and get us to clean inventory. The men's cologne is slightly higher than the women's. It's definitely something that we're looking at. And I would say that both of those forms have been performing incredibly well for us, and we do not promote them. They are so comfortable. The designs are just so beautiful that our customer comes back season after season to get the new one and almost keep them. They're very counter-proud. So we'll continue to look at that. But our single-fragrance launches have just been such a great success for us over the last few quarters, which is why we launched After Dark for men in Q4.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Packaging is beautiful, really beautiful, Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you.
Wendy Arlin:
Danielle, I think we have time for one more question.
Operator:
Our final question comes from Marni Shapiro with Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Congratulations on a great quarter and the launch of MOXY. I actually wanted to ask you a little bit about MOXY. I guess, how long has it been in development what costs were associated with it? And is that embedded -- it's obviously been going? And how should we think about that going forward? And specifically, what are you doing about marketing this brand will it be pushed through? I know it's tiny, but will it be pushed for the marketing cost be pushed through BBW? Or are you thinking as a separate entity? Like could it be sold third-party? Just where your bigger picture head about this? And then what do the finances look like?
Wendy Arlin:
Okay. Yes, I'll take the question on the finances, and then I'll turn it over to Julie on the MOXY launch and rollout. So Marni, this company has a long history of innovation and product development, not just in MOXY, but you've seen it in our ongoing assortment. So Product development is always built into our margin structure. We spend money on it every quarter, not just in MOXY, but in the balance of the assortment as well. So we know that the key to success is not just newness in something like MOXY, but you'll continue even in 2023 to see new and exciting things coming out of our core business. So all embedded in our existing cost structure. Julie?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. Marni, one thing to say about MOXY is this is our first foray in a very long time into what we call above the neck. So the Bath & Body Works has always been below the neck. So we are really learning a lot about face and hair and supplements. We will be delivering body in MOXY in the new year. So right now, the strategy is to focus on our channels, stores and website.
That is not to say that won't change in the future. We are open to all different ways of growth. We just want to case ourselves. I know I've said it 3x now, but we really do want to be in a listening and learning mode, so that we do this in a very thoughtful way. You will see more marketing of MOXY after Christmas. But too important this quarter. We don't want to take our eye off ball and get distracted by the new thing. One other thing to say is we have our own Instagram account for MOXY, and we're trying some different things there. And I think that we will continue to learn and refine. So there are so many opportunities for these brands and ways to go out and attract new customers. And we will be really starting to focus on them come January.
Marni Shapiro:
That's great. It was the Instagram account that caught my eye that maybe wonder that this is bigger than just a little launch into BBW. Best of luck for the holiday season, guys.
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Marni, and thank you, everybody, for your continuing interest in Bath & Body Works. Thank you.
Operator:
That concludes today's conference. Thank you all for participating. You may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Madison, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Second Quarter 2022 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Wendy Arlin, Chief Financial Officer at Bath & Body Works. Thank you. Wendy, you may begin.
Wendy Arlin:
Good morning. Welcome to the Bath & Body Works second quarter earnings conference call for the period ended July 30, 2022. As a matter of formality, any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Joining me on the call today are Executive Chair of the Board and Interim CEO, Sarah Nash; and Brand President, Julie Rosen. All results we discuss today represent the continuing operations of the Bath & Body Works business. The results of the Victoria's Secret business have been classified as discontinued operations.
I will now turn the call over to Sarah.
Sarah Nash:
Thanks, Wendy, and thank you, everyone, for joining the call today. I am delighted to be here speaking with you in my role as the company's interim CEO. The more time I spend in the day-to-day operations of the business, the more I appreciate the talented and experienced management team who lead this business. I also have been so impressed by the associates in our business and our customer-first focus. The time spent with our team has only reinforced for me how the company's innovation capabilities and predominantly North American supply chain provide us speed and agility that set us apart. And I would also like to appreciate all our vendor partners who support us in bringing our products to our customers.
First, let's start with our second quarter results. We are very pleased to share with you that the results for the second quarter exceeded our most recent expectations. This was driven by improvements in both sales and expenses in the second half of July as we closed out the quarter, which enabled us to report earnings of $0.52 per share. During the month of June and during our semiannual sale, we saw a deceleration in traffic trends as compared to our first quarter. Although our customers love our sale, they love our newness more. So as we entered July, we listened to our customers and took action to deliver the newness that they were looking for. Fans were thrilled when we launched our coveted Halloween collection early. Accessories are a large part of this collection, and customers are loving how they pair with our spooky sense for ghoulish fun. Our nimble vertical supply chain enabled us to quickly react to customer want. We also launched our new Poppy floorset in July, which included our notable fall scents. Poppy was the most successful ever July single launch fragrance across 22 forms. Now for an update on loyalty. We are truly excited that loyalty has finally arrived for Bath & Body Works. This week, we successfully launched the program to our associates with significant enthusiasm, and we can't wait to launch across the country next week on August 22 and to invite our base of approximately 60 million customers to participate. Our store associates are excited and ready to go. We have numerous incentives and fun programs in place to encourage the buzz and enrollment, and they are dressing up for the occasion. In our test markets, we saw that our loyalty customers have higher spend and retention rates than our average customer. We look forward to enrolling a significant number of our customers in the first year as well as attracting new customers, capitalizing on enthusiasm for the brand and helping drive the growth of our customer base. Now a little bit about our positioning of Bath & Body Works for the future and some changes in our organizational structure. As we look to the back half of the year, we are investing in our customer experience, looking to chase winners and taking action to better position the business to drive future growth and improve profitability. We are proactively working to combat the inflationary pressures by challenging ourselves on expense management and working within our supply chain to decrease costs where possible, all without compromising quality and our focus on the customer, something we will never do. As part of our effort to more strongly position the business, we reviewed our operating structure and saw areas where we could streamline and simplify along with enhancing our omnichannel approach. Julie Rosen now has responsibility for the entire customer experience, including design, merchandising, marketing, planning and the channel. We are committed to becoming a truly omni- and customer-focused company. As part of these efforts, we are eliminating 130 roles from the organization. Some of those are open headcount, which we will not fill, and some will be a reduction in force, primarily of leadership position. Chris Cramer has decided to step down from his role as Chief Operating Officer to pursue other opportunities. We wish him all the best in his next chapter. We do not plan to fill the Chief Operating Officer role, and Chris' responsibilities have been absorbed by Julie Rosen, Wendy Arlin and Tom Mazurek. With these changes, we are confident that the organization will be more effective and efficient going forward in addition to delivering a true omni experience for our customers. By shifting areas of responsibility and changing how our teams work together across the company, we will be operating like the truly global omni brand that we are. Taken together, we expect these organizational changes and additional cost control and margin improvement actions will generate savings of approximately $30 million in the second half of 2022. We will be taking meaningful actions to address the merchandise margin, and we are focused on pricing, promotions and assortment. We are also focused on strong expense discipline as well as providing customers the best possible omni experience. Everyone, including those departing the business, has worked so very hard to position Bath & Body Works for great things in the future. I am incredibly grateful to everyone. Over time, I see exceptional opportunities to capitalize on Bath & Body Works' existing strength, including our agility, our speed, our innovation and our customers love of our brand. We are excited to continue to extend the brand's global potential as we make the world a brighter and happier place through the power of fragrance. With that, I turn it back to Wendy.
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Sarah. I will be providing financial highlights, but I encourage you to review our slides, posted remarks and press release, which each contain additional details.
First, for the second quarter. As Sarah said, we exceeded our revised earnings guidance for the second quarter. We reported $0.52 per share as compared to our updated guidance of $0.40 to $0.42 per share. The increase as compared to our most recent guidance was driven primarily by improved sales in the latter half of July as well as some expense favorability. In U.S. and Canadian stores, first quarter sales were $1.16 billion, a decrease of 6% compared to last year. Sales were up $278 million compared to 2019 or 31%. Second quarter direct sales were $367 million, a decrease of 10% compared to last year. Sales were up $189 million or 106% compared to 2019. Our customers love and are continuing to take advantage of our omni-focused option of buy online, pick up in store. We ended the second quarter with BOPIS availability in more than 1,200 stores, which is 500 more stores than we had just a quarter ago. Our BOPIS sales are recognized as store sales. Our international business sales for the quarter were $90 million and increased 35% compared to last year. All franchise partners experienced growth in the quarter. Now to guidance for the remainder of the year. For the third quarter of 2022, we expect sales to decrease between mid to high single digits compared to the prior year. We are forecasting third quarter earnings from continuing operations per diluted share between $0.10 and $0.20, which includes an estimated $6 million expense for the previously announced and mentioned organizational changes. For the full year, we are forecasting sales to be down mid to high single-digits compared to 2021, in line with our most recent guidance. We are forecasting full year earnings per share to be between $2.70 and $3. Our full year guidance contemplates expected incremental inflationary costs totaling $230 million to $240 million and the estimated revenue deferral totaling approximately $40 million from the loyalty program rollout. Turning to the balance sheet. Total inventories ended the quarter up 33% compared to last year, in line with expectations. Finished goods units were up 13% compared to last year. The difference between dollar growth and unit growth is due primarily to inflationary pressures and product costs. Approximately 1/3 of the unit growth represents planned accelerated receipts to generate capacity during the third quarter peak period, enabling our agility in the back half. The balance of the unit increase relates to certain categories, including body care and soaps, where we were lean in the prior year, and a strategic investment in gifting and accessories. In summary, our guidance reflects a prudent outlook on the back half of the year as the environment remains dynamic and uncertain. We, of course, will be looking to chase sales upside, maximize margin dollars and maintain a disciplined focus on expenses. I will now turn the call over to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Wendy. I'm excited as we enter the second half of the year. I'm thrilled to be leading this customer-focused organization. With merchandising, marketing, planning and the channels all under my purview, we will be able to put the customer at the forefront of everything we do. This will accelerate our journey and provide the best omni experience for our customer.
For the second quarter, we were able to deliver newness, innovation and trends that really resonated with our customer. Our single fragrance launch, Poppy, was a notable success, our best-selling July single fragrance launch ever. The customer responded well to our packaging innovation and the collection's happy, bright fragrance. On social media, we had high levels of engagement across all platforms, including TikTok and Instagram.
You might recall, we had another single fragrance launch success last quarter with Butterfly. These 2 launches are terrific proof points of our strategy going forward. We know how to leverage our product, innovation capabilities in combination with our unique ability to introduce fragrance throughout the shop in every category:
body care, home fragrance, soaps and sanitizers. And the customer clearly told us that they love our bold, cross-category offering. Increasingly, we plan to leverage the fact that we own the entire shop and have the unmatched ability to bring fragrance to many facets of our customers' lives.
Soaps continued to perform well during the second quarter and benefited from the exciting July launch of our cleansing formula gel, which is formulated without parabens, sulfates or dyes and in a PCR bottle. We will be testing aluminum soap dispensers and refill cartons this quarter as well. Men's continue to outpace our shop as our Father's Day collection of Hero, Sport and Legend were all very successful. I've mentioned it before, but just to reiterate, men's is a huge opportunity for us. It's an $8 billion market. As a reminder, we delivered $400 million last year, and we believe we can double that business. We've had robust testing in stores right now on antiperspirant deodorant in about 600 stores, and we're very excited to roll this form to all stores in spring of '23. This is the #1 form in men. So in order to gain share, we have to win with this form. Our Pride Collections performed well and was an opportunity for us to partner with nonprofits, including the It Gets Better Project to support the LGBTQIA+ community. Halloween, which launched in mid-July, was incredibly well received and drove both traffic in stores -- in sales in stores and online. Halloween is led by decor with our accessories and wallflowers categories where we saw success in our eyeball water globe and a distortion to our now famous witch's hand. These items are prime examples of our strategic investment in gifting and accessories, where based on customer demand, we believe there's a greater opportunity. As we look forward to fall and a little teaser, we're excited to be launching a new innovative brand and exciting new product. More to come. In closing, we are navigating the current environment and taking aggressive actions to capture new opportunities and drive future growth. As always, we continue to focus on maximizing our performance by leveraging the strength of our brands, maintaining close connection to our customers and delivering compelling products and experiences at a great value. Wendy?
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Julie. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you may have. We plan to go to about 9:45 this morning. [Operator Instructions] That -- Madison, we are ready to go to Q&A.
Operator:
Our first question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
There are a lot of outsized SG&A pressures this year, seem to be particularly accelerating in the third quarter. As you look out to your longer-term plan or algorithm, can you talk about where you expect that SG&A rate to settle? And then also from a near-term perspective, just some of the larger drivers of that accelerated growth in 3Q?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Thank you, Lorraine. So SG&A, just a couple of comments on SG&A. When you look at our SG&A basket of costs, about 2/3 of our SG&A expenses are store selling and related expenses. So as you think about that, we do obviously try and flex store selling up and down with sales. But we do plan on consistently increasing wages. So you'd expect, as you look out, that we would see low to mid increases in that over time as we invest in our store associates.
In terms of the change between Q2 and Q3, which you're alluding to, we are, this fall -- the fall is a very important time for our stores. And we are choosing to invest in our store associates by paying them a peak premium starting in Q3. So as you compare Q2 to Q3, the store selling change represents us making a very thoughtful investment in our store associates as we go into that key time period. The other piece -- the second biggest piece of SG&A is home office, and as we said in our remarks, when you look at the home office expense in Q2 as compared to Q3, there's a couple of things to note. Number one, as we called out in our remarks, in Q2 LY, we are lapping about $20 million of some corporate and legal-related expenses that we incurred pre-spin that we did not have this year. So that's a key difference when looking at the rate between Q2 and Q3. The other thing to note in between -- the difference between Q2 and Q3 is due to business performance in the first half of the year, our bonus expense was de minimis in Q2. As of right now, our models are assuming a par type payout for Q3. So there is a key piece in the home office. It's different between Q2 and Q3. And then the last piece, I think, I would point out in terms of the difference between Q2 and Q3 is that in the technology expense that we talked about in our last call is a little bit back half weighted as we ramp up the separation work that we've talked about. So you can think about that as the incremental spend that we talked about last call, roughly 1/3 of it was front half of the year and about 2/3 was back half. So those are the key walks between Q2 and Q3. The other thing I would point out on SG&A, as you -- in terms of your question in terms of the future years. The last piece of our SG&A is marketing. Marketing depends on the time period, but we generally shoot to spend about 2% to 3% of sales on marketing expense.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Ike Boruchow from Wells Fargo.
Jesse Sobelson:
This is Jesse Sobelson on for Ike. We noticed that 2Q gross margins were under pressure but remained above 2019 levels, while the second half gross margin guide implies a material decline versus 2019. This is despite similar AUR, mid-single-digit decline embedded in the plan and we're looking at slightly less inflation. Is this just conservatism? Or I guess, could you guys just kind of help us with the pieces there and understand the moving parts, please?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. Thanks, Jesse. So yes, so as you've seen in our models, we do have a deceleration in the gross profit when you compare Q3 to Q2. And also, as you point out, our AUR assumption for Q3 and Q2 is about the same, so down mid-single digits in Q3. So in terms of what accounts for the drivers, about 2/3 of the sequential change, what you're asking about, is due to the merch margin rate. Lots of items in the merch margin rate. But the item that I would point out to be the most significant driver is the impact of the loyalty program, which we're super excited to launch next week.
So as we've talked about, when we launch it and our customers accumulate points, we do book a revenue deferral related to the points accumulation. And as we're rolling that nationwide next week, we will have an impact in 3Q that you didn't see in Q2. Then I would say though after that merch margin is about 2/3, the balance is B&O expense deleverage, also a lot of things in the details there. A couple of things I would call out is you've got a little bit of deleverage on the negative sales assumption. Our third quarter right now is planned to be a little bit smaller than the second quarter. And then the second thing is consistent with SG&A, our buying organization is in gross profit in that line in the P&L. And consistent with the SG&A part of the organization, we had no bonus in Q2, and we are planning a par, so to speak, in Q3. So those are the key differences.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Simeon Siegel from BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
So at this point, I guess, what is the breakdown between price versus units in the 45% sales growth versus '19? And then you're referencing it, I mean, you guys have a really nice cross-section of the U.S. population. So how divergent are the results that you're seeing between high versus low income? And then how are you thinking about approaching the balance between revenues with discounts versus maintaining the higher margin and potentially giving up some discount-driven volume?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. Why don't we go to Julie for that question and I can add some color at the end.
Julie Rosen:
Simeon, can you just say the first part of your question again?
Simeon Siegel:
Sure. So I think price versus units versus prepandemic, I think you said sales were up 45%. So just trying to think through the AUR that you've been able to get and retain and how you're thinking about that going forward?
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. And maybe I'll take that, Julie can add. So from an AUR standpoint, we have consistently -- and in Q2 as well, we consistently see AURs at around the 20% higher than they were in 2019. So that is still where we are seeing the price growth. So the balance of the increase is units. And then, Julie, I'll go to you for the high versus low -- the income question.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So we are seeing pressure, Simeon, in our lower income customers spending less. That is where the pressure is, which is why we are diligently working and doing aggressive testing to figure out what is the sweet spot. That being said, it is very clear to us that our customer comes to us for fashion trend and newness. And if they love it, they're going to buy it. So there are a lot of pressures out there macroeconomically, and we're just trying to balance all of those things and figure out the sweet spot and ensure that we're delivering enough newness to capture their share of wallet.
Wendy Arlin:
Does that cover all your questions, Simeon?
Operator:
Our next question comes from Alex Straton from Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Congrats on a nice finish to the quarter. If August month-to-date is trending in line with the down mid-single-digit to high single-digit third quarter guidance, does that mean you've seen a step down from the second half of July performance? I just want to make sure I'm understanding that correctly. And if I am, kind of what are the drivers of that dynamic?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. So I would say that our overall business trends so far in the month of August is generally consistent with what we saw in July. So we were generally seeing consistent trends. Keep in mind, though, we're only 2 weeks in, in the month of August. We've got a lot of quarter left and a lot of key weekends and events in front of us. And we think that we're well positioned, but we also think that our guidance is prudent given the quarter to come. So more to come.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Kate McShane from Goldman Sachs.
Leah Jordan:
This is Leah Jordan on for Kate. Our question is around the improvement opportunities for the merch margin. What are you primarily focused on in the near term? And how should we think about any timing impacts? Also, the review that you're undertaking seems fairly comprehensive. Should we anticipate more initiatives as the year goes on?
Wendy Arlin:
Great. So maybe I'll take it first and then I can hand it to Julie for additional focus. So right now, we are definitely focused on winning in fall and winning at holiday. So that is our focus. Of course, we're trying to expand our merchandise margin. But as we're doing this comprehensive review, we do see the potential for more improvements in 2023 and beyond as opposed to the short term.
As you said, what are we looking at? We are looking at everything as you can imagine. We're looking at pricing, promotion. We would, of course, like to see some deflation in our cost base. We're partnering with our vendors. They're great partners. We're looking at value engineering. So many initiatives are -- in the business are ongoing focused on improving the merch margin rate, and we do anticipate seeing many of those come to fruition in 2023. Julie?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. Maybe I can add some color there as well. So obviously, we are constantly evaluating our ticket prices as inflationary and macroeconomic costing pressures continue. So we are taking a very targeted approach to both ticket pricing and our multiple unit pricing. We have taken a good, better, best approach in many of our categories, which we haven't necessarily had in the past, as opposed to a single price point for each form. We have also increased prices in body care, where we have reformulated in better-for-you formula.
And we have also gone back and taken up some of our multiple pricing. So for instance, in soaps, we've gone from 5 for $20 to 5 for $25. We've also raised our wallflower multiple pricing for 5 for $25. And I know you all know, but we continue to have a robust testing agenda where we're constantly testing alternate pricing ideas to see really where we can garner more gross margin dollars. And we're looking at different ways to build the basket with pairings of different multiples. So it's a multipronged approach. We test and learn and apply.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Olivia Tong from Raymond James.
Olivia Tong Cheang:
I want to ask you a question about the reduction in management. Obviously, based on the anticipated savings from the role reduction, it looks like fairly senior positions. So could you discuss if there are any specific functions or categories and whether it suggests any change in terms of your strategic initiatives?
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Olivia. Yes. As we mentioned and as you have pointed out, our focus was primarily on leadership position. First of all, we've been a public company for a year. So over the last year, we've been settling in as a public company and thinking about how to run the organization and what makes sense. And we saw some opportunities to really simplify and get synergies across the organization in a way that really benefits us being focused as an omni retailer.
So you heard in our opening remarks that we are really emphasizing that. And we did a lot of combining teams, in particular, under Julie's leadership to really think about the customer as one customer and to think about us using one voice to the customer and thinking about managing inventory across all of our channels consistently. So it's truly a reorg to focus us to be nimble for the future and continue to grow as an omni-focused organization.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Stephanie Wissink from Jefferies.
Stephanie Schiller Wissink:
Hopefully, these will be 2 quick ones, but I wanted to just hear a little bit about your customer file size, the 60 million that you quoted, how that's changed over the last couple of years. And Wendy, I think you mentioned that the $6 million onetime cost for the restructuring is included in your EPS guidance. I just wanted to clarify that, that your EPS is GAAP and not non-GAAP. Would you like us to back that out or keep that in the EPS estimate for the third quarter?
Wendy Arlin:
Okay. Stephanie, I'll take the second part first, and then I will go to Julie for the customer question. The $6 million is included in our guidance. We chose not to back it out based really on materiality. So -- but it is included in the guide of $0.10 to $0.20 for Q3. Julie, do you want to talk about customer a little bit?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. I mean, as we all know, we had explosive growth in our customer file during the pandemic. So in 2019, we had about 53 million customers, and we got upwards of 60 million during the pandemic. And I am thrilled to say that we have lost very few customers. So we feel that while we grew our customer base, they're still coming back. They still love us. And with the addition of this loyalty program that we'll be launching next Monday, live, I think that the opportunity to get the 60 million enrolled in the program and incredibly loyal will only reap great benefits for us in the back half.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Susan Anderson from B. Riley.
Alec Legg:
Alec Legg on for Susan. On the trends throughout the quarter, can you talk about store traffic and online traffic and how that trended throughout the quarter in addition to the conversion rate as you rolled out newness and saw gas prices coming down?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. So the story of the second quarter was interesting. So we started out in May, performing consistent with our guidance at the beginning of the quarter, and it was generally performing as we expected. And then when we turned to the month of June, starting in early to mid-June, we started to see a deceleration in traffic, in particular, in our stores. And that continued through June into early July.
We -- in response to that, we were in semiannual sale. Semiannual sale is a key event for us to get our inventories clean, and so we did promote in semiannual sale to move our backward-facing, old units, and we successfully cleared those units through SAS. Now when we flip the calendar into July, we knew that the customer was potentially getting tired of SAS and wanted newness. We know our customer loves newness. And so as you heard us talk about it earlier this morning, we had a newness launch with a new single fragrance launch with Poppy, and we accelerated our Halloween collection, and those 2 items of newness along with the balance of shop showing new resulted in an improvement of trends in July as compared to what we saw during semiannual sale. So that was the story of the quarter. Julie, is there anything you'd like to add?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. I think that what we really saw was that the customer got a little bit tired of the semiannual sale. And while they are slightly price-conscious, they still want fashion trend and newness, and we deliver that for them. So we've taken a look at our flow calendar through the rest of the quarter and the year. And we will be, as usual, delivering new themes, single fragrance launches and ideas every 4 to 6 weeks, but you will see other drops basically every week just to get that excitement and to garner more traffic.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
So Julie, could you just maybe elaborate on the demand that you're seeing across categories in August, maybe early customer response to your fall assortment? And what do you see as the constraint to traffic that you're seeing versus the first quarter? And then, Wendy, I guess, maybe just high level. On AUR growth relative to 2019, what do you believe is the fair number to hold on to over time relative to the 20% growth that we entered the year at?
Wendy Arlin:
Great. We'll go to Julie first.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So I mean I think that traffic was a bit up and down in the quarter. I think that where we saw traffic softening, as we have said, is during our semiannual sale. I think that we have always put a semiannual sale that was anywhere from 28 to 35 days. This sale, quite frankly, was 30 days, so not longer than in past, but the customer got tired of it. So what is happening is the mindset is shifting. And they're sort of moving on to new ideas and new items sooner.
The beauty of our agile production capability is that we were able to move Halloween up and really move fall up and give the customer what they wanted about a week early. So we're finding that when we have the right deal, the right product, fashion trend and newness, we get the spikes in traffic. Which is why, as I just mentioned, we're going back and looking at how we're delivering all of our drops to ensure that we're garnering the most traffic possible as well as offering the right deals that hit the right mindset.
Wendy Arlin:
Great. Thanks, Julie. And Matt, to the second part of your question, I would say it's upper teens to 20. It's generally consistent with what we've been saying in terms of what number you should look to for AUR growth.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Dana Telsey from the Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you moved up the introduction of the Halloween collection that seems to have garnered a lot of interest, how are you thinking about the cadence of other collections moving forward in terms of timing? And then as you think about promotions and the cadence of promotions and the depth of promotions relative to last year, how are you planning it and how are you thinking about the AUR as a result of that?
Wendy Arlin:
Great. Dana, we will go to Julie for your question on Halloween and the cadence throughout the back half on activity.
Julie Rosen:
It's nice to hear your voice. So yes, we did move Halloween up a week. The thing to note is this year, we had planned 2 drops of Halloween. So we had the opportunity after we pulled the first drop up to then follow through with the second drop. So that was very successful. As I mentioned, we will be delivering every couple of weeks a new idea, whether it's a cross-category single fragrance launch or whether we deliver our best in fall with our favorite fall scent, an early Christmas preview. So we have a lot of ideas every couple of weeks to spark newness and excitement. So we are not worried about that because as you know, we're about to go into Q4, which is our largest quarter, as Wendy likes to say, the Super Bowl of our...
Wendy Arlin:
Of quarters.
Julie Rosen:
Of our -- of quarters. And we will have our Christmas preview late in September and then in October, really go out full on with Christmas. So we feel like we're covered with many, not only great themes, ideas in single fragrance launches, but the scents and the olfactive spaces that our customers love from us and expects to find.
Wendy Arlin:
And then I would add on AUR. So for Q3, we are expecting our AURs to be down mid-single digits, which is consistent with what we saw in Q2. In Q4, that will moderate a bit. And the reason is because in Q4, we -- because there are so many huge days for us, as an example, Candle Day is a huge event for us. On those huge days or those huge weeks, we're -- just given the nature of the quarter, we're not planning to go down AURs in many of those promotions. So you get a little bit of a better impact in Q4, but we are expecting AURs to be down mid-single digits in Q3.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Jonna Kim from Cowen and Co.
Jungwon Kim:
Just wanted to delve deferring to the promotion strategy. Do you think it's up versus 2019? And maybe if there are things that change now versus 2019. So we'd love to hear more color on your promo as you think about the back half.
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. So maybe I'll start and then Julie can add comments. So we are -- even though we are planning to be more promotional compared to LY, our promotional levels in the back half will still be substantially less than they were in prepandemic time periods. So our strategy is still less than what we saw during that time period. Julie?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. I mean I think from a promotional situation, the thing to focus on is that based on prepandemic, our AUR is up. So we are not more promotional than we were then. We also have e-mail exclusives that we do, and those are down. So we are winning on key event weekends, and that's really what we're focusing on, how big can big be, and how do we win even bigger.
Operator:
Our last question comes from Korinne Wolfmeyer from Piper Sandler.
Korinne Wolfmeyer:
So I'd like to touch a bit on the BOPIS capabilities. I mean you mentioned that's taking about 10% out of the digital demand. So I'm putting that back in, it does seem like maybe digital was a bit stronger than the numbers suggest. One, is that the correct way to be thinking about that? And then going forward, should we expect that kind of 10% to stay consistent? Or are you expecting that to kind of increase over time as you roll it out to more stores?
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks for your question. So on BOPIS, well, first of all, we are so excited to roll this capability. Right now, in the U.S., we're basically in every store where we want to be. And we have had really positive feedback from our customers. They like the capability, and they enjoy coming into the store. And in many cases, our store associates are able to convert them to buy even more goods when they come into the store. So we think that BOPIS, not only is it a great omni initiative for our customer, we think it's also great for us because we're able to get them to experience the store, and our store associates are fantastic at converting them to buy even more stuff.
So in terms of what -- so the impact, as you said, is clear. We have seen some customers maybe who chose in the past to engage with us online are transferring to the store. In terms of where that's going to settle out, we'll see. It's hard to forecast. We just rolled to 1,200 stores this quarter. We know it's right for our customer, and we know it's right for our brand. And over time, we will see where that shakes out in terms of percentages. But Korinne, thank you for your question. That concludes our call this morning. Thank you all for your continuing interest in Bath & Body Works. Thanks.
Operator:
That concludes today's conference. Thank you for participating. You may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Madison, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works First Quarter 2022 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I would now like to turn the call over to Ms. Wendy Arlin, Chief Financial Officer at Bath & Body Works. Wendy, you may begin.
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you. Good morning, and welcome to Bath & Body Works First Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ended April 30, 2022. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings and in our press releases.
Joining me on the call today are Executive Chair of the Board and Interim CEO, Sarah Nash; and Brand President, Julie Rosen. All results we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the significant items as described in our press release. All results we discuss today represent the continuing operations of the Bath & Body Works business as the spun off Victoria's Secret business has been classified as discontinued operations. I'll now turn the call over to Sarah.
Sarah Nash:
Thanks, Wendy, and thank you, everyone, for joining the call today. I am delighted to be here speaking with all of you and serving as the company's interim CEO. Bath & Body Works is an incredible company with a customer-first focus, along with strong product innovation and development capabilities that include a mostly North American and highly agile supply chain.
Our business is very strong. Our execution is excellent, and our strategy of delivering affordable luxuries to our customers is more relevant than ever. We have built on the past 2 years of extraordinary growth with strong momentum as we entered fiscal 2022. We are pleased to have delivered better-than-expected sales and earnings results in the quarter. Looking ahead in 2022, we are continuing to plan prudently and use our agility to chase winners. We are accelerating investments in the business to drive our long-term growth, while at the same time, our team continues to successfully navigate the inflationary environment. Long term, we continue to see exceptional opportunities to capitalize on Bath & Body Works existing strength and extend the brand's global potential. Since taking on the role of Executive Chair and earlier this month stepping into the interim CEO role, I have been spending time gaining even deeper knowledge of our team and our capabilities. This is a strong organization, and one that operates with tremendous speed making us nimble and allowing us to deliver products relevant for our customers. We look forward to speaking with you today about initiatives we have underway or are accelerating, all designed to ensure we continue to advance our customer-centric culture, increase our data analytics across the business and with our 60 million customers and leverage our store and digital capabilities to transform Bath & Body Works to be a true omnichannel business. Our opportunities are great and we aim to capitalize on them. Our vertically integrated an approximately 85% North America-based supply chain has been a key differentiator for us. It has enabled Bath & Body Works to successfully navigate a dynamic environment and present full and abundant product assortments to our customers with speed and agility. It gives us the flexibility to chase into the upside as well as manage any downside. And you'll hear from Julie Rosen, our Brand President, about an example of a successful change to the upside with our Butterfly launch from the first quarter. On a broader level, our ability to leverage our relationships with the world's preeminent fragrance houses, our manufacturing partners and our raw material suppliers, along with our world-class logistics enables us to achieve best-in-class innovation and manufacturing. And this allows us to deliver to our customers what they want, fashion, trends and newness in fragrance, forms and packaging that bring them to delight at an accessible price. We remain highly focused on innovation, and our product pipeline is full. We have an ability to develop and launch products within 12 to 14 months, which is also best-in-class for an innovator in the scented personal care sector. With our pipeline, we are launching new fragrances and products every 4 to 6 weeks, and expect to maintain this pace going forward. Importantly, we are also focused on new business opportunities and the acceleration of new product lines for personal care and home, leveraging our stores and digital presence to test and launch these new lines. In addition to hair and face, men's is a big priority. This business delivered close to $400 million in net sales in 2021, and we expect can more than double its size over time. We continue to lead the market in many of our categories with multiple #1 product forms. The beauty, personal care and home fragrance markets continue to be strong and growing. Our growth strategies will continue to leverage and expand on our fragrance first leadership. And we also plan to explore expansion into other related categories as well as dive deeper into looking into new geographic markets. In short, and as I said at the start, Bath & Body Works has exceptional opportunities to leverage our existing strength and extend the brand's global potential. Before I turn the call over to Wendy and Julie to speak about our first quarter performance, I'd also like to take this opportunity to touch briefly on our approach to environmental, social and governance matters, all of which are also core to the company and how we operate. We have always been deeply committed to delivering high-quality products. The company has had a long-standing commitment not to test on animals, and this continues. In addition, we have always included ingredients that are important to our customers, building on that strong foundation, we are now reformulating several products to exclude ingredients such as parabens, sulfates and dyes. This will be an ongoing focus for us and customers will see more and more mention of these changes on product labels and in our marketing as we continue to evolve. We completed a restage in aroma therapy at the end of February with a new packaging and formulation made without parabens, sulfates or artificial dyes without compromising our Fragrance authority. The packaging is now in better for the earth or PCR materials. We have also begun the process of reformulating fragrant body care. Select fragrances and forms launched with new formulation in the first quarter, and we will continue to expand in the second quarter. By the end of 2022, we expect 35% of our assortment to be reformulated in this effort. Beyond the products themselves, we are also continuing to migrate to PCR packaging for soaps, sanitizers, body care and aroma therapy with a target to expand to 45% of our assortment by year-end. As we migrate to PCR packaging, our bottles will be made with 50% better for earth materials with the goal to eventually get to 100%. We will also continue to focus on diversity and inclusion. Our DE&I efforts are broad and start at the top. Earlier this year, the Board of Directors amended the charter of the Nominating and Governance Committee to include a commitment to have at least 50% of the Board be diverse and to provide that the initial pool of candidates for any Board vacancy will consist of at least 1 woman and 1 person of color. With the recent appointment of 2 new Board members, 4 of our directors are women. Four of our directors are people of color and 1 of our directors is a member of the LGBTQIA+ community. We're applying the same commitment and actions to our hiring throughout the organization, and we are making sure that associates, particularly our diverse associates feel welcome, heard and invested in. We now have 8 inclusion resource groups that cultivate an inclusive environment, provide professional development, shape the culture of our company and actively encourage community volunteerism. I want to thank our associates who worked so hard to create the best possible experience for our customers. I have been consistently impressed by the terrific talent we have within the company. We have a fantastic balance of long tenured associates as well as new associates that bring fresh perspective to the business. It is thanks to our dedicated and committed team that following on the last 2 years of extraordinary growth, the company started the year continuing our momentum and achieving better-than-expected sales and earnings results. Wendy?
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Sarah. I will be providing financial highlights, but I encourage you to review our slides, posted remarks, and press release, which each contain additional details. We exceeded our sales and earnings guidance for the first quarter, as Sarah noted. In the quarter, we increased net sales by 2%, excluding the estimated first quarter 2021 sales benefit of $50 million related to government stimulus payments. The company's net sales in the first quarter of '22 is on top of 53% net sales growth between fiscal 2019 and fiscal 2021. We are confident in our ability to maintain and grow sales and our customer file over time.
In the United States and Canadian stores, first quarter sales were $1.059 billion, an increase of 1% compared to last year. First quarter direct net sales were $317.5 million, a decrease of 9% compared to last year. The decline is partially due to last year's strong results, as well as our customers utilizing our convenient, omni focused option of buy online, pick up in stores. We ended the first quarter with FOCUS availability in over 700 stores. We plan to fully roll out BOPIS availability during the course of the year with the goal to be in approximately 75% of our store fleet by fall. We are excited about the role of BOPIS as it drives customer engagement and traffic to our stores. Our international business, which is a key opportunity for us, continues to drive strong growth for our business. Looking ahead, in 2022, we are accelerating investments in capabilities in the business to support long-term growth. And there are also macro factors such as inflation that will impact our results. These investments and macro pressures, which we outlined in detail in our commentary released yesterday, could cause this year to vary from our 3- to 5-year growth algorithm. However, we remain committed to that algorithm, including targeted sales growth and profitability. We, like many other companies, are continuing to experience increased costs in raw materials, transportation and wage rates. We are forecasting incremental pressure versus our initial estimate, and we now estimate that our full year inflation impact could range between $225 million and $250 million or about $75 million higher than our initial estimate. Our speed and agility enables us to manage pricing and promotional activity to maximize margin dollars. We continue to invest in the customer experience and have been piloting our customer loyalty program. based on encouraging results we have decided to accelerate the rollout of the program to August. Our loyalty members have higher spend and retention rates than our average customer. Thus, we expect that the loyalty program will drive sales and customer retention, deepening our relationships with our customers over the long term. Equally as important, we believe that over time, our loyalty program will further increase data-driven analytics and marketing, which will support personalized communications and offers. As we discussed last quarter, we are also investing to establish separate IT capabilities for the Bath & Body Works business. We recently decided to accelerate this work, hiring Accenture to assist us, and we now expect that the separation component of the project to predominantly be completed by next year. Completing separation on this accelerated basis will, in turn, enable us to more quickly build additional technology capabilities to support long-term growth. We are excited to work with Accenture to not only complete our IT separation, but also to truly transform into a data-driven organization, which will allow us to further strengthen our customer connection and capture new market opportunities. For the second quarter of 2022, we expect sales to be up in the low single-digit range compared to the prior year, consistent with our first quarter trend, excluding the stimulus benefit from last year. We are forecasting second quarter earnings from continuing operations to be between $0.60 and $0.65 per share compared to $0.77 last year. For the full year, we are forecasting sales to be up low single digits compared to 2021. We are also forecasting full year earnings per share to be between $3.80 and $4.15 compared to the $4.51 in the prior year. The company is committed to managing and forecasting the business prudently. Thank you. And now I will turn the call over to Julie.
Julie Rosen:
Thank you, Wendy. I'd like to touch on a few merchandising highlights. First, our single fragrance launch in the quarter, Butterfly, was a huge success. Highly inspired by the women in our lives, we wanted to celebrate International Women's Day, Women's History Month, and Mother's Day. This fragrance was created for women by a woman. Master perfumer, Honorine Blanc, is a highly regarded female in fragrance.
As with any new fragrance product, launches are customer tested for initial smelling and wear. We leveraged the results and the customer debate to make the final fragrance decisions and are constantly listening to customers and applying feedback to our existing strategies for upcoming product launches. For Butterfly, we worked across our fragrance teams, concept and design, MP&A and supply chain, customer insights, marketing and PR and fields and customers to promote and build demand through impactful marketing, a social push and in-store and online preview. Meeting our customers multiple mindsets each season and putting them at the center of everything that we do is what sets us apart. We not only test fragrance with customers, we also test the packaging with both customers and associates. For Butterfly, we also launched this early in a small group of stores, which, along with our nimble supply chain allowed us to read feedback, react and read order as soon as the products hit all stores. I'd also like to note again that our new product launch time line of 12 to 14 months is best-in-class in the industry, and Butterfly is an excellent example of our capabilities. It was our largest spring season cross-category launch across Body & Home. Butterfly was the #1 fragrance for the total company in April, and it was also the #1 fragrance in all forms in the week of launch. I'd also like to highlight the repackaging of our most beloved fragrance, Japanese Cherry Blossom, in the first quarter. Japanese Cherry Blossom was recognized in March by Women's Wear Daily as one of the top fragrances of all time, what a huge honor. Japanese Cherry Blossom was launched in 2006, and this was the fifth time we updated the packaging to make it more modern and aesthetically pleasing. Current customers look forward to buying their favorite fragrances and updated packaging and the new modern design entice new customers to buy as well. This has been a winning strategy for us as Japanese Cherry Blossom continues to be a top 10 fragrance for us. Additionally, as we discussed last quarter, we've established a separate and dedicated team focused on innovating into new categories and businesses, and we are pleased with the team's continued progress. As part of their efforts, we continue to explore and test new and next product ideas. We plan to test a new personal care line, including safe care and hair care in the back half of this year, which Sarah mentioned. We have additional tests planned both in home and body in 2023. We're very excited to launch, test and learn on these growth opportunities, and our omnichannel model positions us well to do this. And finally, I'd like to touch on the reformulations that Sarah mentioned earlier. We have been diligently working on taking parabens, sulfates and dyes out of our formulas and expect to be 35% complete by the end of the year. We're focusing on the forms that go directly on your body first. In closing, we continue to focus on maximizing our performance by leveraging the strength of our brands, maintaining close connections to our customers and delivering compelling products and experiences at a great value. Wendy?
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks, Julie. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. We plan on going to about 9:45 this morning. In the interest of time and consideration to others, please limit yourself to one question. Madison, I'll turn it over to you.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes Ike Boruchow from Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Wendy, just 2 quick ones for you on the expense line. On the tech spend, so $25 million higher that you're pulling forward, $100 million total. What is the tech spend that you guys have? Just remind us what's laid out for next year to kind of complete that transition? And then on the other side of the cost, the CEO transition costs and retention, I think that is around $50 million, if I'm doing the math right. Can you just explain what exactly that -- those dollars are basically being allocated to just so we know what the rationale is behind that $50 million?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Thanks, Ike. So on the technology spend, as you mentioned, we are pulling forward about $25 million into this year as we accelerate the work to get separated and move on to transformation. So what I would say is that $25 million acceleration will really benefit 2024 as we go forward since we're pulling it out -- we're making that project go faster.
I would anticipate technology spend will normalize in the out years as a percentage of sales as we go into 2023 and 2024. In terms of the spend on the transition or leadership and retention items, I would tell you, it breaks down. The biggest piece of it is retention that we're investing in our associates to make sure that we've got a solid team as we go forth through 2022 and 2023. The rest also relates to other items, including share-based compensation, search fees, et cetera. We'll 'take the next question. Go ahead. Sorry.
Irwin Boruchow:
No, I was -- just sorry, a quick follow-up on the tech spend for next year. Is it $100 million again? Or is it less than $100 million? I'm just trying to see if there's a net benefit on the cost side from net spend next year.
Wendy Arlin:
We think tech spend next year will be roughly flat to what it is this year.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
Great. This is Alex Straton on for Kimberly Greenberger. I just wanted to dig a little bit into where you guys are strategically raising prices across the assortment and the thought process on how you guys assess if it makes sense as well as kind of how you guys are thinking about promotional activity being down this quarter and then how it will evolve through the rest of the year?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. I think, Alex, I'll take the question and then I'll turn it over to Julie, maybe for some color or commentary. So in terms of pricing, pricing is something that we are continuously testing in this business. One of the advantages of our business is that we have a very robust testing program, a very consistent testing agenda. Every weekend, we're out in our stores, testing different pricing. And what that enables us to do is it enables us to see how our customer responds to certain pricing offers. And our pricing really is a component of 2 things. We have ticket, and then we also have our sharp price points or multiple deals that we're running any given day.
So we use that testing to look at both of those factors and at the end of the day, give our customer offers that they respond to, but also maximize our margin dollars at the same time. As we look forward to Q2 and promotional approach, we are seeing the customer respond favorably right now to very sharp price points. And so we've incorporated that into our second quarter guidance. We've got AURs planned down slightly year-over-year in the second quarter, and we're really doing that to resonate with our consumer when the consumer is feeling a little pressure right now. Julie, anything else you want to add?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. I mean I agree with Wendy. We are constantly testing and reading and reacting to those tests. I think that any time we invest in products, we're always looking at pricing. So as we're reformulating our formulas to be better for you, we will be taking those forms up $1 as they enter into our store.
I think a great example is Wallflowers. So Wallflowers had a really great quarter. They continue to have great momentum. We launched our new scent control heaters, which have high, medium and low settings, and they performed well above expectations. Our customers have been asking for this feature, and we've really been working hard on delivering those in stores. I think what this shows, this product is a great example of our customer is smart and they understand the price value equation of our products and spending $12.50 for the scent control heater didn't even deter them at all from buying it. So not only were the scent control heaters doing well, but our decorative heaters, which are also at times higher-priced heaters. So again, as long as we have the right price value equation, they're very smart, and they go along with us.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
You mentioned in the prepared comments that you've committed to the profitability algorithm. Can you talk about what are the best opportunities to get back to that low to mid-20s EBIT margin goal?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Yes. So our -- as you mentioned, our profitability algorithm is low to mid-20s in terms of EBIT percentage. There's obviously lots of levers that we have that enable us to push towards the higher end. The first is, obviously, we want to continue to grow sales. And as we continue to grow sales, we should get leverage in the business and we'll experience that over time. As we've laid out in our sales growth algorithm, we see future growth in all components of our business.
So we see in our store channel through both organic comp growth and square footage growth. We see growth in the direct channel in the future. And we're also very excited about growth opportunity in the international business. And all 3 of those channels are consistent with our overall EBIT percent target that I just mentioned. So in other words, none of those channels hurt us in terms of maintaining that overall profitability rate. The other thing that it's an important lever for us to pull as Julie just mentioned and I mentioned, we're always continuously looking at pricing. And we have discovered our customer is willing to pay higher prices when we deliver quality. And we'll continue to test and learn and see what pricing is appropriate and try to increase pricing over time. So those are probably the biggest levers that we have to continue to emphasize our long-term profitability growth algorithm.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Stephanie Wissink from Jefferies.
Grace Marie Menk:
This is Grace Menk on for Steph. I'm wondering if you could highlight how you're using inventory levels to manage risk and opportunity in the business.
Wendy Arlin:
Great. So as we said in our prepared remarks, at the end of Q2, our forecasted inventory levels are higher than they would normally be in any given second quarter. And that was a strategic planned thoughtful decision. And the biggest thing to go that went behind that is we wanted to pull some production into the second quarter to make sure that we mitigated any risk of disruption and also to make sure that by having some of our core production pull forward, our supply chain will have more agility going into the holiday period for us to read, react and chase into winners.
So by making that planned decision, we've freed up flexibility and agility in the holiday period. So when we see what the customer wants, we can chase into it and develop or chase into more winners. So that was our strategy behind our inventory.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. And just to add to that, Wendy, this read and react is a competitive advantage for us. It's something that we can do that nobody else really can do. So we were able, in this last quarter, to read and react and order about 10% of our total production on this 4- to 6-week chase time line. And that is a strategy that we will continue to use throughout the end of the year. I think a couple of things. What that does for us is it ensures that we are in the product that the customer loves the most. So we're really going after the winners.
So Butterfly, as Sarah and I both talked about, was a great example of delivering early, reacting and getting back into many units across all categories. I think another area that we had great success, which we haven't really talked about was our tropical collection. Really, it hit on the mindset that was transported and our customer in March was ready to be transported. And we had an outlier fragrance, Pink Pineapple Sunrise, that was a runaway hit, and we immediately reacted and got into that. So we are very adept at being flexible and fluid and getting in and out of what is and isn't working, and that's a winning formula for us.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Simeon Siegel from BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Wendy, if I'm not misreading it, and I might be, it looks like inventory dollars may have come in lower than guidance, but the units were in line. So I'm just wondering, is that a mix component or did inflation actually come in better than expected this quarter? And then just maybe for context, any way to think about the 350 bps inflationary impact broken down into raw material costs versus higher transportation? And then maybe the same question go forward, just how you're thinking about the -- for the rest of the year, I mean raw materials versus supply chain pressure and transportation.
Wendy Arlin:
I think I got all that, Simeon, but you're probably going to have to repeat some of it. So in terms of inventory, if there wasn't any major call out. A lot of it was just -- it was components coming in a little bit favorable than what we expected because some of that's in transit. And at the end of the day, it was just a little bit better than forecast. No major call-outs on the variants to our initial call out on Q1 inventory.
In terms of inflation, transportation, that subject, we did mention that we are continuing to see pressure in inflation. We quantified approximately $75 million of incremental. As we look at around the $250 million of inflation, about just under half of it is raw materials. And I know we talked about this in the last call, but we continue to see pressure on all of our raw material inputs. And then about 40% of that is transportation. So we are seeing incremental pressure in transportation. A lot of the increment in the first quarter is due to higher fuel and the impact that that's having on our transportation charges. And then the balance of that $250 million after raw materials and transportation is wage rates in our fulfillment centers and our distribution centers. Simeon, did that cover your question?
Simeon Siegel:
Perfect. Yes.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Jonna Kim from Cowen.
Jungwon Kim:
Just curious if you can elaborate a little bit on the color of the consumer. I know you said they're reacting to sharp price points, but have you seen any sort of pullback in the units they're purchasing? And also internationally, you're seeing some growth there. But any region that is notable in terms of any shift in demand, that would be helpful.
Wendy Arlin:
Okay. First, we're going to go to Sarah and then Julie can add on. Sarah?
Sarah Nash:
We make a daily use product in the affordable luxury category. Our customer comes to us because she loves our newness. She loves the fun and the exciting experience she gets in the store. And as I said earlier, the health of our customers is very strong. We have held on to our 60 million customers that we have grown to over the last 2 years. Our retention rates are strong at over 60% and our retention rates for our loyal customers in the loyalty program are north of 80%. And that is just in the trial program. So we are definitely delivering through our test, read and reactability, which are most impressive. An ability to bring our customer in at a much lower price point, but have them choose to fill up their basket with other items. So we haven't seen in a strong or a large diminution in the basket at all, just a slight variance.
And you know our customers are across the income bracket. We like to say, we are a merited store for daily use affordable luxury. And I think that's important to remember. And all of that is buttressed by our ability to have a supply chain that can read and react in 3 to 4 weeks that literally is across the street. Again, 65% is made in Columbus, 85% is made in North America. So as Julie will elaborate, that's what enabled us to chase through millions of units in a highly successful launch of Butterfly across 25 categories. So our customer is loyal, she trusts us, and she's coming in repeatedly to see what's new in our stores. Julie?
Julie Rosen:
Yes. So just to give you a little bit context on unit sales, unit sales were up low single digits. And so just to give you a couple of color areas where we saw this, soap were up against last year. And we were in a much stronger inventory position than we were last year, and we believe the business is starting to stabilize and the customers coming to us. So as Sarah mentioned, we believe that we are a use up business. Our products are meant to be used daily and replenished frequently. And what we're finding is they're coming back to replenish. And when they come to our stores and they come to our site, we are great with conversion.
We also have some great innovations in soaps, and I think that they're responding to that as well. So we have a beautiful innovative tools bottle for our gel soaps in vibrant colors she loves putting them on her counter. They're counter proud. It helps her decorate her house, as well as we are seeing strong acceptance to our foaming core Restage soap. And the other thing to mention, I know we talked about Wallflowers, but unit sales are up there as well. So we have some outlier categories where we're doing quite well.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Great. So Wendy, on the margin side, 2 questions. What is your AUR forecast for the back half of the year relative to the front half and just any drivers supporting it? And then on the expense front, multiyear, is there a base case way to think about SG&A dollar growth relative to revenue growth if we're thinking beyond this year's investment bill?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. So in AUR, so we're thinking for the full year, we'll have AURs about flat which would imply a slight increase in the fall season. And as you know, that's an area where we're extremely agile. We constantly are watching pricing and watching promotions and what works and what doesn't work? And we changed the -- our plans weekly, daily sometimes. And so as we go into the fall season, we will be very, very agile and flexible and approach that with that attitude as we go into the important holiday season. But as of right now, we're planning the full year roughly flat.
In terms of SG&A growth, we tend to -- obviously, our biggest -- about 2/3 of our SG&A is store selling, and so that will flex with sales. And so I think the easiest way to model our store SG&A expenses is really to look at it as a percent, as we grow sales we will try and leverage that over time.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research Associates.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Sarah, I was wondering, I heard what you said about freight and raising gas prices. I'm just wondering, as we look into the back half, if you look for the increases to moderate, if that's assumed in the guidance, we're getting mix reads, some reporting companies are saying they're looking for freight to moderate in the back half and others are saying that it's not going to moderate at all. In fact, it might be worse.
So I would like to understand what's embedded there for guidance. I'd also like to understand where we are in price increases in terms of what inning we're in, given the fact that while material costs continue to rise. And hi to Julie, and if Julie you could talk a little bit about the fragrance category. You have tough compares, but the category globally is growing rapidly. And I'm wondering if you see an opportunity for the growth there to continue to be outsized versus the other categories.
Wendy Arlin:
Okay. So Janet, to be clear, your first question was on freight?
Janet Kloppenburg:
Yes, on freight and transportation, that outlook. As we go through the year, do you expect it to continue to be at the level it was in the first quarter or do you expect it to moderate as we go through, particularly in the back half?
Wendy Arlin:
Okay. Great. All right. So I'll take the first 2 parts of your question, and then we'll turn it over to Julie on the fragrance market. So in terms of freight, we have forecasted freight rates based on what we know today. And as I mentioned, of our roughly $250 million of pressure that we've quantified, roughly 4% -- sorry, 40% of that is transportation. And the increases we're feeling are, in particular, in surcharges in our parcel network. So it's based on what we know today. we'll see what happens. If rates change over the course of the year, then those costs will either go up or down, but that is -- our current estimate is assuming the fact that exists today.
In terms of what inning we are in pricing, I would describe our pricing conversations as a baseball game that never ends. So I wouldn't say we're ever in a certain inning. That's something that -- over time, we'll continue to test and expand pricing as appropriate. I mean one data point is that if you compare our overall pricing now to pre-pandemic, our AURs are up over -- well, approximately 20% over that time period. So this is something that we're continually looking at, and that will be part of this business' agenda forever as we continue to do business. So I'll turn it over to Julie for the overall fragrance.
Julie Rosen:
Janet, it is nice to hear your voice again. So can you just repeat the question because you sort of went out and I want to make sure I'm answering it correctly.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Well, I follow a lot of companies in the beauty industry and the fragrance category had very strong growth during COVID, but has been sustaining that growth here in the post-COVID environment. So I'm just wondering if you could talk a little bit about those trends as it pertains to BBW, do you see that opportunity for fragrance to grow as a percentage of the mix? And maybe if you can talk about it margin profile versus company average that would help as well.
Julie Rosen:
Yes. We absolutely are seeing great new learnings in olfactive spaces, which is very exciting. So when we have things like JCB, which we repackaged, which has been with us since 2006, it continues to be a top 10 fragrance. The great thing is we can have something like Butterfly, which is a new olfactive space for us, which was a fruity floral also be in the top 10. The other thing to say is we launched a line of gender-neutral White Barn handle this particular quarter and saw huge success from an olfactive space in Amber and Ooze.
So we are in the process. As always, we test everything. We have a major Ooze test going on right now just to understand how much we can go into that as an olfactive space. We make sure that we're balancing by season, and we're also doing a big test in men. So there is a men's how high is high test, where we're testing 16 fragrances. So there's a lot going on in fragrance. We know at different times of the year, we need to lean certain ways, Gourmet, Pumpkins in fall, but we're also opening up new spaces, which is very exciting, and it's very exciting that our customers coming along with us.
Wendy Arlin:
Thank you, Julie. We are out of time. So this concludes our call this morning. Thank you, everyone, for your continuing interest in Bath & Body Works.
Operator:
That concludes today's conference. Thank you for participating. You may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Cedric, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Fourth Quarter 2021 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Wendy Arlin, Chief Financial Officer at Bath & Body Works. Wendy, you may begin.
Wendy Arlin:
Good morning. Welcome to the Bath & Body Works Fourth Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending January 29, 2022. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Joining me on the call today are CEO, Andrew Meslow, and SVP of Investor Relations, Amie Preston. Sarah Nash, Executive Chair of our Board is also with us this morning.
All results we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the significant items as described in our press release. All results we discuss today represent the continuing operations of the Bath & Body Works business as the spun-off Victoria's Secret business has been classified as discontinued operations. Thank you. And now I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Wendy, and good morning, everyone. Before we turn to our results, I'd like to address the news that we announced yesterday that I will be stepping down as CEO in May. I made this decision after much consideration and many discussions with my family so that I can appropriately focus on my health.
Sarah Nash, our Board Chair, has been appointed Executive Chair and will be named Interim Chief Executive Officer upon my departure, and the Board will conduct a search for my successor. Well, as you can imagine, this was a difficult decision, I have incredible confidence in the Bath & Body Works leadership team and all of our associates across our organization. Thanks to the hard work and dedication of a team that is second to none, we have grown Bath & Body Works into a global, market-leading business. We have successfully navigated the challenges of an unprecedented global pandemic, and we completed the spin-off of Victoria's Secret and launched ourselves as a stand-alone public company that continues to deliver industry-leading results. I am looking forward to helping ensure a seamless transition over the coming months, and then watching the company's continued success after I depart. Sarah and I have worked very closely over the last couple of years, and she will provide strong oversight alongside the rest of the leadership team as we work through this transition. Sarah has joined us today, and I'd now like to turn the call over to her for a few remarks. Sarah?
Sarah Nash:
Thanks, Andrew. Andrew and I have had an extraordinary partnership over the last 2 years. And through the separation and formation of Bath & Body Works as an independent company, I have also had the opportunity to work closely with the rest of the leadership team. Andrew has led the Bath & Body Works team in strengthening the company and creating extraordinary value, which was only reinforced with the completion of the spin-off of Victoria's Secret and the launch of Bath & Body Works as a stand-alone public company. His vision, guidance and commitment to culture has positioned Bath & Body Works as an industry leader.
While we will all miss Andrew, we wish him all of our best thoughts and wishes. I know the company is in great hands due to the deep bench of talent Andrew has helped to cultivate. I'm looking forward to continuing to work closely with them to help Bath & Body Works achieve future success. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call back to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Sarah. So now turning to our performance. 2021 was a historic year for Bath & Body Works. We made incredible progress across the company to build on our already strong foundation, ensuring that our brand and business remain healthy and relevant well into the future.
As mentioned, we successfully separated from Victoria's Secret and became a stand-alone public company. We delivered significant and balanced 2-year growth across all our major product categories and channels. We grew our active customer file to a record 60 million customers, an increase of 13% compared to pre-pandemic levels. We continue to move towards an omnichannel mindset and enhanced our capabilities to engage our customers how, when and where they want. We demonstrated agility to read, react and replan the business in the midst of strong customer demand while also experiencing inflationary pressures and production constraints. Our primarily North American, vertically integrated supply chain provides us agility, and we were able to present full merchandise assortments to our customers in all time frames. We had definitely adjusted to continuous COVID-19 protocol changes to keep our associates and our customers safe. We started planning and constructing a new company-run fulfillment center to support the future growth of our digital business. We invested in our associates to enable future growth, including increasing wages in our stores and distribution centers, making key hires needed to support our stand-alone business and help lead critical areas, such as sustainability, social responsibility and corporate governance. And we established a new separate and dedicated team to innovate into new categories and businesses. Our balance sheet and cash position are strong. We ended the year with approximately $2 billion in cash, and our gross adjusted debt-to-EBITDAR leverage ratio at 2.3, below our target of mid-2s. The Board and management team are committed to continuing to return free cash to shareholders as evidenced by the Board's recent authorization of a new $1.5 billion share repurchase program and a 33% increase in our annual dividend. All of these accomplishments as well as the efforts and dedication of our associates and partners enabled us to deliver record sales and earnings results for both Q4 and the full year 2021. In the quarter, we increased sales by 11% and 22% for the full year. In the fourth quarter, we increased earnings per share by 17% and full year earnings per share increased by 45%. Looking to 2022, we remain very confident that the Bath & Body Works brand is strong with continued opportunities for growth. We are comfortable with and committed to the 3- to 5-year growth algorithm that we communicated at our Investor Day last July, including mid- to single -- mid- to high single-digit percent sales and operating income growth and an operating income rate in the low to mid-20 range. In 2022, we are investing in capabilities in the business to support long-term growth, and there are macro factors, such as inflation, that will impact our results. These investments and macro pressures, which we outlined in detail in our commentary released yesterday, could cause this year to vary from that growth algorithm. For the first quarter of 2022, we expect sales to be down low to mid-single digits compared to the prior year. Excluding the estimated $50 million of 2021 stimulus benefit, we estimate that sales would be down low single digits to up low single digits. We are forecasting first quarter earnings per share from continuing operations between $0.47 and $0.55 and compared to $0.60 per share in 2021. For the full year in sales to be flat to up 4% compared to 2021. Excluding the $50 million 2022 loyalty program revenue deferral and the $50 million first quarter 2021 estimated stimulus benefit, sales are forecasted to be up low to up mid-single digits. We forecast full year 2022 earnings per share from continuing operations to be between $4.30 and $4.70 compared to $4.51 in 2021. This forecast reflects pressure of between $1 and $1.08 per share related to the anticipated investments and macro factors in 2022, again, that were described in detail in yesterday's commentary. We have confidence in our opportunities for long-term growth as we continue to focus on maximizing our performance by leveraging the strength of the brand, our vertically integrated largely North American supply chain, maintaining close connections to our customers and delivering compelling products and experiences at a great value. Thanks, and I'll now turn it over to Amie Preston.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. In the interest of time and consideration to others, please limit yourself to one question. Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] My first question comes from Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
And congratulations on a solid fourth quarter and the year. My question is around pricing. You've taken some select price increases in areas such as candles more recently. I'm just wondering how have price increases been received. And how will new product innovations, such as some of the men's product coming out, SPF and others be priced? And will it be impactful to the overall pricing mix?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Roxanne. So yes, I think you're right to point out that, frankly, over the last several years, we've taken a series of price increases. And again, as a reminder, our retailers are driven by the combination of our ticket prices, our everyday deal prices and then other promotional prices that we use throughout the year. And also, as a reminder, we have a very deep and thorough testing and read-and-react process that we use to look at all price changes that we make, especially on the promotional deal structure.
But again, as you mentioned, 3-Wick is a good example, 3-Wick Candles a good example of where we've taken prices up from pre-pandemic. Ticket prices were mostly $24.50. We now have a range of prices in that category from a low of $24.50 to much of the assortment at $26.50 and the upper end of the assortment at $29.50. That's also an area where, on our biggest deal price of the year, which is our Try It To Believe It day in December, over the last few years, we've taken that critical price point up from $9.50 to $9.95 and then to $10.25 in this most recent time frame. And other examples like that exist throughout the assortment within our hand soap category, within our body care category, within our wall flower category, all areas where we have taken up ticket prices, everyday deal prices and those deep Try It To Believe It promotional prices. To your question on how have they been received, I would say across the total time frame, we have been very pleased with the results that we've seen with those price increases. Again, as we mentioned in our prepared remarks, we have seen balanced category growth on a 2-year basis across all of our key categories, even as we've made those price changes. I think it's also important to understand that through the long period of time of the business, any time that we've made investments into our products, whether it's through a restage or a launch, we generally use that as an opportunity to look at pricing, to look at promotional activity to make sure that we're getting paid for those investments. And that certainly is the mindset and the strategy that we have on a go-forward basis as well. So hopefully, that helps to answer your question.
Roxanne Meyer:
All the best to you.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Roxanne.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Steph Wissink with Jefferies.
Stephanie Schiller Wissink:
Andrew, our best wishes as well to you. We want to ask a multifaceted question on the loyalty program, if we could. The first is just as you conceived of this program, give us some sense of some of the key attributes that you think are important to your customer in terms of their loyalty and engagement. If you can give us some sense of the way in which you expect to launch and roll that out and how you're communicating with your stores and your customers. And then the last feature within loyalty is just what you're doing with respect to building a data warehouse. And how do you expect to leverage data as you think about some adjacent categories in your future growth?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stephanie. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Stephanie. I appreciate the thoughts. Yes. Yes, so on the loyalty program, as we've mentioned on prior calls, it is an application-based program. It's one that we've been piloting in about 1/4 of our stores, a little less than 1/4 of our stores for the last several years. It is a points-based system where customers spend and get rewarded for those spending. And once you reach certain thresholds, you then get free items as your reward, in addition to you get both an introductory award and a birthday award. So that is the nature of the program.
And again, it's a program that in that extended pilot, has gotten very good qualitative feedback. And as we've shared in the past, we've been very pleased with the results we've seen in terms of customer engagement through the program, where we've seen consistently higher retention rates of loyalty customers and also higher spend rates of loyalty customers relative to our non-loyalty cohorts in those markets. In terms of the portion of your question around the launch, as we mentioned in our prepared remarks, we do intend to begin the rollout to the balance of the company later in the summer of this year. And so are hopeful that as we roll that out, it will allow us to complete rollout by the end of the year. But obviously, we'll keep a close eye on that and make sure that from an operational standpoint and from a results standpoint that we feel good with getting that all done in fiscal 2022. The commentary that we provided around the implications of the loyalty program in our prepared remarks do assume a full year -- a full rollout within fiscal '22 at this point. And to the last part of your question around data, as you can imagine, in addition to the customer engagement results that we've seen and been pleased with, we are very excited about the ability through an opt-in loyalty application, where the customer provides us with a lot more data than we're able to generally generate from our existing data collection techniques. We do believe that, that will be a very important weapon or tool for us on a forward basis as we think about further engagement with our existing customers as well as figuring out how to target customers either for new category opportunities or for new customers. So that is also a very critical aspect of, we believe, the benefits that we will realize from this program. I hope that helps.
Operator:
The next question comes from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Andrew, sending our well wishes for your health as well. Can you guys talk a little bit about AUC? You gave some interesting data on finished inventory at cost versus units. And it seems like that AUC gap may be widening now. So just maybe hoping you could dig into that a little bit. And then can you speak to your decision to build the company-owned fulfillment center versus using a third party?
Amie Preston:
Sure. Thanks, Simeon. We're going to go to Wendy.
Wendy Arlin:
Simeon, yes. As you saw, we -- when we talk about inventory, we have a big spread between our dollar growth and our unit growth. And that is fundamentally an inflation story. So it's really not about mix. It's about the inflation pressures that we've talked about. You heard us disclose that in the fourth quarter, our inflation estimate came in at the high end of our expectations. And roughly 40% of that inflation that we talked about is related to raw materials.
So it's pretty broad-based pressure that we're feeling in all of our inputs, and that's really driving up the cost of our product. We're working hard with our suppliers to mitigate that, but that is a true pressure point that we're feeling in terms of our AUCs in our product. In terms of your question on the fulfillment center, we -- as we thought about adding that to our network, we thought it was important to continue to add capacity. So one of the biggest factors in our decision-making was units. We see in the future a lot of potential for growth in our direct business. And we like having a blend of a company-owned distribution center along with our partners that we use, and by adding this, we'll add substantial -- add meaningful increase to the units. The other thing about our company-owned approach is we do plan on launching that fulfillment center in the fall 2022. But over time, including in 2023, our goal is to increase automation which will, over time, decrease the labor that we require in that building. So you'll see that we do plan on spending capital, not just this year, but in 2023 to increase the automation and like I said, reduce our reliance on labor in that facility.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Andrew, we are really going to miss you, and we wish you all the best. I know that you are leaving BBW in really great shape. I'm wondering if you can just talk about the team that supports you, Andrew. Give us a little bit of an idea of the sort of tenure and experience on that team. And Sarah, as you begin your executive search, what is the Board focused on as you look to replace the very, very big shoes that Andrew is leaving?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly. We'll start with Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Kim, thank you very much for your thoughts and for your question. Yes. So the reality is we have a very, very deep and talented group of talent across the business and within our senior leadership team. So if I focus on our most senior leaders first, because I think that's probably the nature of your question. We've got a good mix of folks who have been here with BBW and/or L Brands for a long time. So people like Wendy, who's on the call today is relatively new in the BBW CFO chair, but has been with the enterprise, as we call it, for 16 years and played a very close, supporting role to Stuart Burgdoerfer in all of his time as the corporate CFO.
On the longer-term BBW side, we've got Chris Cramer, as our COO. He's been with the overall business for 20 years and in his newer role since about the time that I assumed the CEO role. But Chris has a long background, having run our digital business for a period of time, also was our brand CFO for a period of time and our head of merchandise planning and allocation, so a nice, broad set of experiences there. Also a long tenured associate with L Brands, previously Mast and now Bath & Body Works is Tom Mazurek. Tom has also been here for 15-plus years, has been over our vitally important, vertically integrated supply chain and has deep and long-lasting relationships with all of our vendor partners there, and knows the power of our sourcing model that allows for all of the agility that we have in the business. Then turning to our other members who are more new to the business, but each bring deep experiences and have brought, importantly, fresh perspective as well. Julie Rosen, our Brand President, has been here now about 18 months, but has a long career in specialty retail, a long time with Gap and Banana Republic, and then prior to joining us, the 5 years prior at ascena and Ann Taylor. And Julie's background as a terrific merchandise leader, marketing leader, customer leader, design leader has already shown important impact into our business, and so Julie is a terrific talent. And then Deon Riley, who is our relatively new Chief Human Resource Officer, joined the business a little over a year ago after a long career at Ross Stores and prior to that, with Abercrombie & Fitch and started her career with United Technologies. And then our last newest member of the team is our Chief Legal Officer, Michael Wu, who joined the business a little over 9 months ago and has had that similar role at several other places, including Carter's and Rosetta Stone. So again, a very experienced senior leadership team with a good mix of long tenure, both with this business and with important experiences in other businesses as well. So I'm very confident that, that most senior team can help with the transition and continue to drive this business to much future success. With that, I'll turn it over to Sarah for the second part of your question.
Sarah Nash:
Thank you, Andrew. And nice to meet you, Kimberly. The Board will conduct a comprehensive search process to identify Andrew's permanent successor. And as we stated yesterday, we do plan to retain a national search firm to help us in that effort. We will be looking for an experienced public company executive, preferably female, with very strong global brand experience. I hope that answers your question.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo Securities.
Irwin Boruchow:
Andrew, [indiscernible]. I guess that I just wanted to zero-in a little bit to go back to the holiday update when you guys talked to us about a little bit of variability in performance. You guys have been beating plan by leaps and bounds earlier in the year. Holiday, you had a little bit of an issue post-Christmas heading into January. You kind of commented in the script that things improved through January.
I kind of just want to get a sense of where that -- you guys are headed there right now. It seemed like the last week of December, you were trying to diagnose the problem, trying to figure out exactly what was happening with traffic or revenue trends. Are we back to where we want to be? Are there still some things you're trying to figure out? I guess I'm just trying to understand where the mindset is today versus maybe that at the end of December.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Ike. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks for the thoughts and appreciate the question. So to your point, we were very pleased with our holiday performance. And especially, frankly, late in holiday in the last 5 to 10 days leading up to Christmas, we saw very strong results. And I think we would attribute some of that to the fact that we were able to use our vertically integrated supply chain to be in really good in-stock situations and provide last-minute gifting opportunities for customers that, frankly, some others probably weren't able to be in that position. And so that was a benefit. As well as the whole of the holiday time frame benefited from being at full capacity from the stores' standpoint this year versus still, in many areas, restricted capacity last year.
As we shared in our prepared remarks, January and especially the early part of January, that was, as part of our semiannual sale, was softer than our expectations. And I think at this point, we would probably speculate that there were a lot of different factors at play there, whether it was certainly the widespread Omicron variant putting a damper on traffic levels for us. And certainly seem to be for malls in general or businesses in general as a contributing factor as well as starting to lapse some of the stimulus activity from last year that may have had more benefit in that time frame that we had visibility to at that point. But importantly, as we shared, our business improved through the end of January, especially as we got out of semiannual sale and got new product launches on the floor. Newness is always a driver of our business. And as that has then continued into February, again, our Q1 guidance, we think, is very fair and reasonable relative to the results that we've been seeing recently.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Andrew, thank you, and best of luck to you. I wanted to just focus on some of the customer metrics that you gave in the prepared comments. How have your retention rates trended post-pandemic? And are there any changes that you've seen in the past couple of months on these retention or other customer metrics?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Lorraine. Thank you for your thoughts, and thank you for your question. So as we shared in our prepared remarks, 2021 was really a remarkable year from a customer standpoint, getting to the 60 million active customer number that we shared and substantial growth, not just to last year, which was negatively impacted by the store closure time frame in 2020, I'm talking about, but also importantly, good mid-teens growth to our pre-pandemic levels. And how we've gotten there has been certainly that we've added a lot of new customers to the brand over that time frame, which is really, really exciting. And again, another sign to us of the long-term health and viability of the business.
But to the other part of your question, we've also gotten there by a pretty nice increase in our overall retention rate through that time frame that now stands directionally right around 60%. Versus if we were having this conversation a few years ago, that number was closer to 50%. So again, good growth from a new customer standpoint and very nice performance from a retention standpoint. The only other thing I would add, this is something we've talked about in the past, is that our customer engagement metrics are also very positive. In terms of our spend per customer, has trended up nicely over the last several years, directionally up about 30% to where we were pre-pandemic. And our other metrics around cross-channel and cross-category metrics, in terms of the percent of our file that engage in those ways, have also increased nicely over the last couple of years. And importantly, the spend associated with both our multichannel and our multi-category customers are more than 3x what the spend of either a single channel or a single-category customer spend looks like. So again, we're very pleased with those metrics on the absolute numbers, but also on those engagement metrics.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
And best wishes to you, Andrew. I wanted to ask about some of the inflationary headwinds. You mentioned in the prepared remarks that Q4 came in at the high end of the range. I'm curious, in retrospect, how much of that were you able to offset through pricing and promotional actions?
And then looking ahead, are you incorporating any offsets to the incremental $150 million to $175 million that's in the 2022 guidance? It's -- bigger picture, I'm just trying to get a better sense of the gross versus net impact of these inflationary pressures. And just any view you have on what portion could be considered transitory kind of medium term?
Amie Preston:
Great. We're going to go to Wendy for that question.
Wendy Arlin:
Yes, I'll answer that question, obviously, and I'll try and answer it. And Andrew, you can add color commentary if you want at the end. So as we looked at Q4, we as we said, we came in at the high end of our inflationary estimates. And if you look at it on a 1-year basis, we talked about fourth quarter this year, we were roughly flat from a promotional standpoint in Q4 this year. So on a 1-year basis, it was tough to offset the inflationary impact. And as you heard and saw on our results, that we were pressured in merch margin as a result.
Over a multiyear basis, we have, as Andrew shared earlier, we have tested and read and reacted. And when appropriate, we have raised prices. So on a 2-year basis, our AURs in our business are up around 20%. So it's a multiyear journey in terms of offsetting the price -- the inflationary costs. But we continue to look at that and test and try to raise prices and mitigate the pressures to the extent we can. But as you saw in our remarks, we are expecting to still have inflationary pressures in 2022. Some of that, as I mentioned earlier, is raw materials. Another aspect of the pressure we're experiencing is in transportation. So whether that's inbound or outbound to our stores or transportation in our direct business, those pressures are real and they are in our forecast, and we will try to offset them to the extent we can. But we are feeling those in 2022. Andrew, anything you'd add?
Andrew Meslow:
I think Wendy hit all the high points there. Again, I think it's important to recognize on a multiyear basis, as I described earlier, we have taken a lot of pricing opportunities. And we've also dialed back on promotion levels in literally almost every category and in almost every vehicle. But that is, as we've described, something that we are very nimble on and we'll continue to test, read and react to what the customer -- how the customer is behaving, how the customer is responding to all of our categories. And certainly, do our best to offset as much of the price increase as we are able to.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Mark.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
A nice quarter. So Andrew, could you speak to the cadence of new product launches this year and category opportunities that the team is excited about? And then maybe, Wendy, on gross margin, any flexibility to your merchandise margin outlook this year, which I believe embeds an uptick in promotional activity? Are you seeing this pressure today? Or are you more anticipating taking actions moving forward?
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Matt. Andrew, do you want to start?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. Sure. Matt, so we actually provided a fair amount of detail on our anticipated product pipeline and launch activity this coming year in our prepared remarks. So without reading those to you, I'll just -- I'll summarize what some of those things were. Obviously, from a good for the earth standpoint, we're excited to continue to really move in the direction of improving the use of post-consumer recycled content in all of our plastic bottles here by the end of the year. Importantly, we're also continuing, as we have done very successfully through the years, to repackage, redesign many of our key core fragrances in body care and other areas, things like Gingham, Japanese Cherry Blossom, Into The Night, A Thousand Wishes, et cetera.
We are in the process of relaunching, as we speak right now, our large and successful aromatherapy product line. We've made improvements to our Wallflower fragrance, plug-in fragrance diffuser business, both in terms of the intensity of the bulbs as well as introducing a new, adjustable wall unit in terms of high, medium, low fragrance dispersal. So that's very exciting. And then we also spent some time talking about our men's line. Our men's line has been a very successful and fast-growing portion of our business. It represents about 5% of our overall business today. It has been the fastest-growing portion of our body care business. And so we're excited to continue to launch new products there from a form standpoint. And we're also doing some more extensive testing of additional forms and categories within that line to inform our future growth. So again, I think, on an overall basis, I would say that Julie and I and the team are very excited about the product pipeline and the amount of new launches, relaunches and overall product improvements that we're making throughout the year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Wendy?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. Yes. So on margins, specifically on merch margin, when we look to Q1, that is where, during the course of the year, we'll have the most pressure. I mean just as a reminder, we grew Q1 sales last year 93% year-over-year. So we're lapping an enormous growth period from LY. And so we are anticipating being slightly more promotional in Q1 this year as compared to last year. And then we have the inflation pressures that we mentioned. So in terms of the quarters during the year, Q1 is where we'll have the most pressure, which we are realizing right now.
As we look forward to the total year and fall, in particular, as we've mentioned in a lot of ways, we are working to mitigate and hope to have better performance year-over-year in terms of rate. The team is actually working on Christmas right now. So we are actively having these conversations in terms of mitigating the pressures we're feeling, and we'll work to improve the year-over-year pressure as we get to the back half of the year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, and thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Jay Sole with UBS.
Jay Sole:
Andrew, I just want to add my thank you as well, and also wish you best of luck. My question is on SG&A. You outlined some of the drivers of SG&A in fiscal '22. But if we take a step back, can you just sort of elaborate a little bit on SG&A and compare some of the puts and takes versus 2021? But then also looking at it versus 2019, if SG&A dollars are up 40% roughly based on the guidance versus 2019, like what are some of the drivers there, just to compare and contrast the 2 time periods?
Wendy Arlin:
Sure. So a couple of things. So when you look at our SG&A expense, the biggest component of SG&A expense is store labor. So as you can imagine, as our store sales grow, the store labor associated with those sales grows. So that, on a multiyear basis, is the biggest driver of dollar change. We work real hard well to gain efficiencies and keep the overall rate at a level that is consistent. But that is our -- on a year-over-year, that's our biggest driver.
The other thing that is in SG&A is marketing. So we were able in 2020 and 2021, just given the strength of performance, we were able to pull back on our marketing spend. But as we go forward into a more normalized environment, anticipate we'll return our marketing spend to more normalized levels, levels that you would have seen in 2019 and prior. And then the third biggest component that we have in there is home office expenses. We are always working hard to be frugal and control those expenses as we can. You heard us or saw in our prepared remarks that we will have SG&A pressure as it relates to IT spend over the next several years as we separate our systems from Victoria's Secret's systems. But we're working very hard to manage those costs, and we're focused on what we can control. And that's what we're shooting for in terms of trying to keep SG&A flat year-over-year.
Operator:
And our next question comes from Omar Saad with Evercore.
Omar Saad:
I was wondering if you guys could talk about -- sounds like you've got a lot of good data on your customers' kind of spending pattern. Maybe you could talk about the categories they were spending in pre-pandemic and how that evolved during COVID. And as we come out and markets reopen, are you seeing any sort of category shifts in terms of where people are spending, especially as it relates to the home fragrance? Any changes around how people are spending their money in your store, whether you're in the lockdown period or coming out of it?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes, Omar. So to the first part of your question, the good news is that the customer profile of the customers that we've gained over the last year relative to the profile of our customer file prior are absolutely very similar in nature. And the good news is that the performance of those new customers that we've gained has also been in line with existing customers, therefore, at a very healthy level as opposed to the -- one might have thought we gained less valuable customers through the pandemic. So again, our retention rates are high and the performance of those new customers, also very high.
On a category performance basis, as we mentioned in our prepared remarks, on a 2-year basis, so meaning looking back full year '21 to full year 2019 pre-pandemic, we saw very healthy growth across all of our categories. Not surprisingly, on a 1-year basis, this past year, we did see a decline in our soap and sanitizer business coming off of an incredible growth rate that it experienced in 2020 at the height of the pandemic. But that was in line with our expectations. And on a multiyear basis, the growth in our soap and sanitizer business is still very healthy and higher than our overall growth rate. To the part of your question around what, if any, changes in performance are we seeing beyond that as we get further and further, hopefully, removed from the shutdown and the pandemic, we really have not seen any other change. So for example, if there was a concern that there might be a slowdown in our home fragrance category if, in fact, people are now spending less time at home than they were at the height of the pandemic, we have not seen any performance data that would tell us of different behaviors there. So we remain very confident, very enthusiastic about what that category growth rate can continue to be on a future basis. I hope that answers your question.
Omar Saad:
Best wishes to you and your family.
Andrew Meslow:
Appreciate that, Omar, very much.
Amie Preston:
That concludes our call this morning. Thank you for your continuing interest in Bath & Body Works.
Operator:
Thank you. And that concludes today's conference. You may all disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Julie, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Bath & Body Works Third Quarter 2021 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Wendy Arlin, Chief Financial Officer at Bath & Body Works. Wendy, you may begin.
Wendy Arlin:
Good morning. Welcome to the Bath & Body Works Third Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending October 31, 2021.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Joining me on the call today are CEO, Andrew Meslow; and Senior Vice President of Investor Relations, Amie Preston. All results we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the third quarter loss on extinguishment of debt in both years as described in our press release. All results we discuss today represent the continuing operations of the Bath & Body Works business as the Victoria's Secret business has been classified as discontinued operations due to its spin-off on August 2, 2021. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Wendy, and good morning, everyone. Turning to our third quarter performance. We delivered strong results, and we could not have done so without the continued hard work and commitment of our associates and partners in stores, distribution and fulfillment centers, call centers, at our vendors and our offices. We'd like to express our deep appreciation for their ongoing dedication and efforts.
We reported adjusted third quarter earnings from continuing operations of $0.92 per share compared to $0.83 per share last year. This result significantly exceeded our third quarter guidance for earnings per share between $0.55 and $0.60. The upside versus our guidance was driven by better-than-forecasted sales and a higher merchandise margin rate. We continued our strong momentum in the third quarter. Net sales were $1.681 billion, a decline of just 1% versus last year's exceptionally strong results and a 53% increase compared to 2019, which was consistent with the 2-year growth we delivered in the first half of the year. Performance was strong across all months of the quarter as we saw good customer response to our fall seasonal and Halloween merchandise. We also launched 2 new fragrances in the third quarter, Fairytale and Open Sky, both of which exceeded our expectations. We are satisfied with our inventory position as we head into holiday. While we are better positioned than most retailers due to our primarily domestic supply chain, we are not immune to challenges. We have proactively managed production and promotions throughout the third quarter and did not experience significant out of stocks. And we do expect our assortments to be full and abundant for holiday. We are partnering closely with our vendors to support production needs in order to continue to meet customer demand. In terms of our product offering and marketing stories, we invite you to watch a video showcasing our holiday assortment, which we posted to our website this morning. Inflationary pressures in raw materials, wages, supply chain and transportation costs negatively impacted our third quarter results and will put even more pressure on our fourth quarter as we described in the commentary, which we released yesterday evening. We will continue to proactively manage pricing and promotion with the goal of offsetting as much of this cost pressure as possible. We are forecasting fourth quarter sales and earnings per share growth over last year and significant growth versus 2019. Specifically, we expect fourth quarter earnings per share between $2.10 and $2.25 compared to earnings per share from continuing operations of $1.96 in 2020 and $1.41 in 2019. And we expect sales growth in the mid- to high single-digit percent range compared to last year. We are well positioned as we go into the important holiday season and fourth quarter. We have confidence in our merchandise assortments. And although it is very early, customers are responding positively, and quarter-to-date sales are in line with our expectations. Risks related to COVID persist. And we will continue to operate both of our channels in a safe manner for our customers and our associates. With continued smart and disciplined management of the business, I believe we can deliver a strong holiday and fourth quarter. Thanks, and now I'll turn it over to Amie Preston.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Julie.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Congrats on the sustained growth. I guess, Andrew, I'm sure someone is going to ask this, so I'll just be the one. I mean, your margins were very elevated last year. You guys really were a key beneficiary. But you're really sustaining those levels of profitability in a way that I think most people did not think was likely.
Can you kind of just give us an update? Are we still thinking that this is a low 20s margin business? I mean, you're going to be above the mid-20s this year. Just kind of curious like structurally, how are you seeing things evolve, I would love some higher level perspective from you if that's okay.
Andrew Meslow:
Yes, sure. Thanks for the question, Ike. So yes, we've said pretty consistently on earnings calls and in investor meetings that we believe that an operating margin in the low, mid-20 range is appropriate for this business because we think it affords us the right balance of investing in our products, our customer experience, our capabilities while also generating a very high return on sales.
And as we've also talked about, really the driver of the breadth of that range from low to mid is really going to come down to most likely how we're able to maintain the merchandise margin improvement that we've realized here over the last 18 months. And so I would say that our confidence on that from a promotional and pricing power standpoint remains high. And as we've seen, each of the first 3 quarters of this year, we've been able to keep promotion levels at or below where we were in 2020 and meaningfully below where we were in 2019. And again, that's a combination of all the different levers that we use in terms of more full-price selling, less clearance, fewer days of real power traffic driving promotions, higher prices when we do run promotions, selective, higher tickets and fewer shop-wide discounts. Really the wild card that's come into play, though, last quarter, Q3 and this coming quarter and forward is going to be around inflationary pressure. And so again, as you look at our margin improvement in Q3 relative to Q2, it was not as much as it was in the first half of the year. And that difference was really about those inflationary pressures. And again, those are in raw materials. They're in transportation and supplies and in wage rates. And we expect those costs, as we disclosed in our comments, to only go up further in the fourth quarter. So that really is, we believe, more of a short term, on a rolling 12 basis, probably Q3 of '21 through first half of '22, where we start to lap some of those costs. But as we look beyond that, again, it's going to come down to how much of that merchandise margin pricing power are we able to sustain. And again, as of right now, we're still very confident in our ability to do that. Did I address your question, Ike?
Irwin Boruchow:
Yes. Appreciate it.
Andrew Meslow:
No, my pleasure.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Andrew, can you talk a little bit about some of the pricing actions that you have taken and what the consumer response has been? And then also, if you'll continue to adjust pricing and promotions on a go-forward basis to offset some of these supply chain issues?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. Thanks, Lorraine. So again, as I kind of highlighted there in the prior answer, we have lots of different levers at our disposal around pricing and promotions, including ticket price increases and frequency of promotions and depth of promotions.
On the ticketing front, as we started to get line of sight to what the inflationary pressures were becoming in the end of Q2 and into the back half of the year, we did make select ticket changes. So biggest example would be on our big 3-Wick candle business. We did take the ticket up by $1 there. We also selectively took some tickets up in our body care key forms as well as in some of our wallflower heaters. More importantly, though, because again, the majority of our sales actually come from everyday promotions, we've also -- based on our testing and our read and react capability, we have been gradually raising the level of promotion prices really across all of our categories here over the last 12 to 18 months. And that's frankly something that we do every day, that constant test, read, react and make changes to is something we've been doing for years, but honestly, even more important in a time frame like this where we are facing the inflationary pressures. So we continue to do that. We believe we've been successful in that. We have not seen negative customer reactions to this point in terms of those changes that we've made either to tickets or to promotional levels. And we'll continue to do more of that. I will say, as we move into the fourth quarter, the reality is that fourth quarter is a much more promotional time frame than the other 3 quarters of the year. We, as a business, rely much more on key promotional days that both drive volume, traffic and customer acquisition. And so while we will still use that read and react capability that I described, as we head into the fourth quarter, we are expecting a promotional activity more in line with last year, both from a frequency of pricing promotions as well as a depth of pricing promotions. And so that's what our forecast -- that's what is embedded in our forecast.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Okay. Great. Really nice results here. Andrew, I wanted to ask about the sort of degree of magnitude that you're considering or contemplating for the fourth quarter gross margin.
You talked about having the fourth quarter down compared to last year. If you could just help us understand order of magnitude? And your margins, as I said, have been really outperforming expectations this year. I'm wondering if you can just talk about the puts and takes around your gross margin forecast for the holiday season? And what could cause that gross margin or the overall operating margin in Q4 to come in a bit better than you're currently forecasting?
Amie Preston:
Okay. Kimberly, we're going to go to Wendy.
Wendy Arlin:
Kimberly, so as we look forward to Q4 and our gross margin, as we talked about in our prepared remarks, what's really driving our gross margin down is the pressure coming from inflation that we talked about. So we are forecasting merchandise margin rate to be down significantly as compared to Q4 of last year.
That is being driven by the inflation. Of the inflation we called out, roughly half of it is raw material, and the other part of it being driven by transportation, wage pressures and supplies. But a significant pressure on our AUCs is occurring in Q4. And that's combined with the fact that on the pricing side, as Andrew said, we're planning to be generally consistent from a promotional strategy in Q4 compared to last year. So you add that up, so to speak, and that's what's driving our gross profit or gross margin rate down significantly and -- in the quarter.
Amie Preston:
And then Andrew, do you want to talk about potential upside to the forecast?
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. So again, the opportunity we have from a rate standpoint is really about whether or not we're able to be a little bit less promotional than last year. As I mentioned and Wendy reaffirmed, our current guidance is a very similar approach to last year.
So if we were able to be little bit more aggressive in terms of pricing than that, that could potentially result in some upside. And then the other piece would be if we're able to perform at the high or even higher range of our forecast, obviously, some of the costs are more fixed in magnitude, and so we could get some leverage if we were able to overdeliver on the sales line versus our forecast.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Congrats on the ongoing results, really well done. So the AUR is great, feels pretty well understood at this point. I think in the script, you said you saw low double-digit increase in UPTs as well. If I got that right, can you just speak to that growth?
I don't know if there's any new shopping tendencies with higher bundling you're seeing versus pre-COVID, if there's something you think that will last or if there's a onetime COVID lap? So just trying to think about the UPTs going from here. And then to the last point, if you can speak to the $90 million to $100 million increase in forecasted costs, if you can break that down between raw materials, supply chain and transportation at all, that would be really helpful.
Amie Preston:
Okay. So let's start with Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks for the question, Simeon. I just want to make sure I understood. The first part, that was specific to the digital business or to the other...
Simeon Siegel:
I thought I -- whatever it was, I think you called out a pretty nice [indiscernible].
Amie Preston:
[indiscernible] 2-year.
Andrew Meslow:
2-year. Yes. So when we think about the business on a 2-year basis in general, the growth that we've seen in stores has been phenomenal. And really, that started with the reopening trend from last year in the July, August, September time frame. And from there, we saw continued strength through the balance of the year.
So in the third quarter versus 2 years ago, we saw traffic -- we saw traffic up, we saw conversion up versus 2 years ago, and we saw transactions up significantly. And then to your question, we saw average dollar sale up meaningfully on a 2-year basis. And again, the driver within that is both UPTs and AUR. AUR through some of the pricing and promotional pieces that we were talking about earlier. But on the UPT side, it's really been driven by the continued move of our customer to purchase across multiple categories. And that has been something that we have been, frankly, driving for in terms of how we build our assortments. So we do a lot more cross-category collections now than we did further back in our history. We do a lot more cross-category merchandising both in-stores and online. And we occasionally do cross-category promotions as well. And so the combination of all of those activities has driven us to see on a multiyear basis, us go from about 55% of our customers purchasing multiple categories 2 years ago to now close to 60% of our customers purchasing across multiple categories. And that, obviously, has a great impact on the UPT and more importantly, on that average dollar sale.
Amie Preston:
Great. And we'll go to Wendy for the question about cost.
Wendy Arlin:
Thanks. On inflation, in terms of the guidance, roughly half of the dollars that we mentioned in our prepared remarks relate to raw materials. So we're seeing pressure throughout the components that we use in our business, including wax and other parts of our product. So that's roughly half. I would say roughly 1/4 or 25% of the pressure we're seeing is in transportation. So that would be both inbound, outbound and parcel. And then the balance would be primarily in wage -- wages. So whether it's the wage rates at our vendors that produce our product or in our distribution centers and fulfillment centers, we are seeing -- in all those places we are seeing wage pressure. So that's how it breaks down.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Wendy. Thanks, Simeon.
Simeon Siegel:
Congrats, guys. Best of luck for the holiday.
Amie Preston:
Thank you.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Congrats on another great quarter.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Matt.
Matthew Boss:
Andrew, can you speak to growth in the customer files that you've seen during the pandemic? How do you think this translates to market share opportunity by category going forward?
And then a question that I just had in terms of the P&L. So you're guiding fourth quarter sales up mid- to high single digits against 22% growth a year ago. So as we think about the algorithm, mid- to high single digits going forward, obviously, compares will ease over time. Does that provide potential upside as we think multiyear about your ability to lap up against these material compares and what it may mean going forward?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Matt. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. In terms of the customer, so the great news there, Matt, is that what we were talking about at the end of last year, at the end of 2020, was that despite the fact that we had overall a very strong year, we actually had seen a decline in our customer file in 2020 really driven by the fact that our stores were closed for 90 days in the middle of the first half. And so while we saw a great performance in the back half of '20, we still came up short.
The good news is that the first half of 2021 and Q3 have continued a strong trend of absolute customer growth so that we're now up. On a rolling 12-month basis, we're up low double digits to 2 years ago in addition. So that's in terms of the number of customers that we're seeing. And we're also continuing to see really very strong customer engagement metrics that are up from a spend standpoint in the high 20% versus 2 years ago. So very, very strong file. And within that, a part of your question, we're seeing nice growth on a 2-year basis now across all of our categories from a customer standpoint. And as mentioned earlier, that percent of customers who are shopping across multiple categories is also up meaningfully. And as we've disclosed in the past, those multi-category customers spend over 3x more than a customer who purchases only one category. In a similar way, we're also seeing nice growth in our dual-channel customers. So low teens percent of our business now in dual-channel customers versus high single-digit percent of our customers dual channel 2 years ago. And those customers also spend order of magnitude 3x more than a single-channel customer. So nice performance there. Again, we gained -- what this is all telling us is that, obviously, we gained customers here during the pandemic. Some of that, obviously, through soaps and sanitizers. But as we're now lapping really that the extreme of those time frames in Q2 and Q3 of last year, we're seeing very nice retention rates. Our retention rate on customers is actually higher than it was pre-pandemic even on a much higher customer base. So that's great. As mentioned earlier, the engagement metrics continue to be very strong. And importantly, I think one of the things to also note is that the profile and performance of the new customers that we've gained inside of this time frame is very comparable to the performance of our prior customer file. So these are equally valuable customers that at this point, we believe it should be very valuable on a go-forward basis as well.
Amie Preston:
Great. Matt, did we hit all your questions?
Andrew Meslow:
The second question was about Q4 guidance. So...
Wendy Arlin:
Yes. On Q4, I think you're asking about our longer-term growth algorithm and what does our Q4 guidance tell us about the longer term. I would say our multiyear growth algorithm, as you pointed out, we communicated was we anticipate total sales growth of being up mid- to high single digits over time. We believe that is still the appropriate growth algorithm. I think what's important to note about Q4 is that we are lapping capacity restrictions in Q4 of last year. So that's something that as we look for a multiyear growth algorithm, we won't have that as we go forward in 2022 and later.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Stephanie Wissink with Jefferies.
Grace Marie Menk:
This is Grace Menk on for Steph. I'm wondering if you could talk about the trends that you're seeing in sanitization and the outlook for that part of the business going forward?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. So we looked at the soap and sanitizer business together and really think about how that's performed during the pandemic relative to where it was prior to the pandemic. And as we've shared in the past, in 2019, for example, the soap and sanitizer business was right around 14% of our business, total business for the year. Last year, it got up to almost 20% of the business, obviously driven by, really, the pandemic buying that was occurring in Q2 and in Q3.
And as we said at the beginning of this year, we expected it to moderate this year and probably stabilize somewhere in the mid- to low teens percent of the business. What I would say is that our year-to-date results and our Q3 results were all in line with that level of expectation in terms of where we expect it to shake out. And I think it's important to know that in the third quarter where I think there was legitimate concern about would we be able to anniversary the tremendously high sales growth that we saw last year of mid-50s percent in the total business with soap and sanitizer driving a number that was in the north of 70% range in that time frame. The good news is that while we did see an expected year-over-year decline in soap and sanitizer in Q3, the growth that we were able to generate on a year-over-year basis in our body care business, our home fragrance business and our gifting and accessories businesses, we're almost able to fully offset that soap and sanitizer decline. And so again, on a longer-term trend, we do expect it to be up to where it was pre-pandemic, but it certainly won't be as high. I'm speaking about soaps and sanitizers. Again, it won't be as high as it was in 2020. Hope that helps.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Congrats on the improved sales and full-price selling in third quarter. My question is on White Barn. You still have a nice runway for growth in your remodels. Can you remind us of the productivity of these, how much more productive they are than your stores without an attached White Barn and how you see the path for growth over the next year and few years?
And then as a follow-up on the flat promotional strategy for 4Q, I know that last year, you adjusted your approach to promos just given your capacity is constrained. So for example, running your candle day for multiple days. How are you going to impact things like that this year?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Roxanne. Yes. So appreciate the question on the White Barn strategy and performance. Prior to the pandemic, that was one of the major things we were talking about in the business. Again as we had, prior to the start of the pandemic, gotten about half of our fleet through a White Barn remodel as we call it, where we add that White Barn room to our existing real estate.
And as we talked about pretty extensively, the productivity increases that we see out of those stores, when we do that, of high teens to low 20% increases was something we continue to be very excited about. And the good news is after taking an understandable break on our real estate activity in 2020 out of an abundance of caution, as we've ramped up in 2021 to numbers that aren't quite where we were in '17, '18 and '19 in terms of a number of projects, but still meaningfully higher than 2020. The good news is that the performance of those White Barn remodels or new stores continues to be very, very strong and on line -- in line with the level of performance that we were seeing prior to the pandemic. So where does that leave us? By the end of this year, we'll have about 1,000 of our stores in the White Barn remodel format. And ultimately, we would like all of our stores to be in that format. Really, the question will be of the venues -- the mall venues that are at risk or vulnerable, how many of those do we do versus how many of those do we replace with different off-mall locations. So the second part of your question on the Q4 promo strategy. Again, as mentioned earlier, we are planning activity that's in line with last year. And to your point, the last year promotional strategy was meaningfully different than our prior year strategy. That included on some of our try it to believe it days, which are our key promotional sharp price days on individual categories, the candle day being the biggest of those, as you mentioned. We took from historically being only 1 day deal generally on a big Saturday to last year, we were successful in spreading those out over multiple days. In addition, our Black Friday deal, that historically has been a 1-day only deal, that also last year we spread and basically made that promotion over the whole Black Friday week. And so in both of those cases, both of those key price points, try to believe it days and that Black Friday deal, our intent is to be similar to last year and extend them over multiple days.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Jay Sole with UBS.
Jay Sole:
Great. I guess, Andrew, I have a question about hand sanitizer, about the market in general. What's your sense for how the hand sanitizer market overall across U.S. has performed? And can you compare that to your business just to help us maybe understand the trends within Bath & Body Works versus some of the trends more broadly speaking?
And then secondly, I think you touched on some of the constraints last year in-stores during the holiday season because there was no vaccine yet and some of that. But can you also talk about some of the constraints online last year? I mean last year, there's a lot of talk about shipping surcharges and difficulty fulfilling online orders because demand was so strong. What will that look like this year? How will that online business compare this year to last year?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jay. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Jay. So on sanitizers, obviously, the market in 2020 saw an explosive growth. And I think as we've talked about on a prior call or 2, that included many, many people who historically have not been in the hand sanitizer business getting into the hand sanitizer business as a reaction to that tremendous increase in the market that was occurring, driven by customer demand, obviously.
So as we've come out of 2020 and through 2021, many of those players, those ancillary players that had gotten into the business, obviously, got out of the business and in some cases, had to go to deep price promotions in order to exit their positions. And so we are still very happy that we are in the hand sanitizer business. We're in it in a meaningfully and profitable way. It is up materially from where it was 2 years ago. As mentioned earlier, it's obviously down on a 1-year basis as we're lapping that explosive growth last year. But we view it as definitely a very attractive market to be part of on a go-forward basis as we do expect and frankly, are continuing to see that customer behavior is different now in 2021 than it was back in 2019 and prior. So again, a market that saw tremendous growth last year. I think the market is experiencing a decline this year. We won't have full year numbers on that until early in the new year. But certainly, from what we're able to gauge, that's what's happening. But we're very pleased with our business within that. So the second part of your question on capacity online. So yes, last year, certainly, we were constrained in multiple ways. So one way was the online business for Bath & Body Works was order of magnitude doubling year-over-year, and that certainly was not our plan as we entered the year in 2020. And while the team did a phenomenal job of procuring additional fulfillment capacity through the full year, the reality is we were really hand to mouth in terms of our ability to fulfill the business last year. And so while we were pleased with the overall business results, the lead times or the amount of time it was taking to ship products to our customers was longer than we would like it to be. Our shipping cutoff as we headed into holiday was earlier than we would have liked it to be. And in some cases, based on inventory levels, our online business wasn't able to participate in all the different promotions that we were running in stores. So I think the good news is, this year, we're in much better shape in terms of having procured the appropriate amount of fulfillment capacity that will allow us to have shorter shipping windows, and I'm knocking on wood, hopefully, be able to extend our shipping cutoff pre-Christmas. Some of that will obviously depend on the macro environment and what our carriers are able to provide year-over-year. But that as well as our inventory levels, we're confident will leave us with much less constraints online this year versus last year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Just one quick short term and one longer term. Short term, were there ticket changes that were taken for the fourth quarter this holiday season that had not taken effect in 3Q? So just curious if you've made any changes recently.
Then just longer term, I'm just kind of curious, Andrew, what do you look at as the lowest-hanging fruit as you think about that mid- to high single-digit top line growth over the next several years? But even as we look out to '22, any new categories, new opportunities that you see as kind of low-hanging fruit as we look out to next year and beyond?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul.
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. Thanks, Paul. So on the first part of your question, Q4 ticket differences versus Q3, I think the short answer to that would be no. The ticket changes that we made as we started to get visibility into the inflationary pressures, as I talked about earlier, we really made as we moved into the back half of the year. So the third quarter had those ticket increases in it already. So nothing that we're doing differently from a ticket standpoint, Q4 versus Q3.
And then on your question on long term, as we talked about over the summer, our long-term outlook and our business plan associated with that, we talked about lots of things in terms of further expansion within our existing core categories as well as getting into adjacent categories. But my belief is that the lowest hanging fruit within that is still around key item opportunities to further expand out our assortment in the categories in which we already play. So examples of that are things like an additional form in candles. Today, we're very reliant on the one 3-Wick and to a lesser extent, on a single-wick candle. So additional opportunity there. Within body care, opportunities around things like bar soap, things like antiperspirant deodorants in the men's business, things like moisturizing body wash across the body care assortment. And then within soaps, we're also very reliant on our foaming soap and so further expansion of additional soap forms and sanitizer forms opportunities. So again, from a lowest hanging fruit within the categories that we're already very successful in opportunity to expand key items.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul. I think we have time for 1 last question.
Operator:
Our last question comes from Marni Shapiro with Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Andrew, I was actually so happy to see the bar soap back. So thank you for that. I'm curious as you guys have raised prices a little bit, pulled back on promotions, are you seeing kind of conversely, a stronger reaction when you do put promotions in place? And how should we think about your post-Christmas traditional sale this year?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. Thanks, Marni. Good question. So again, the short answer to the first part of your question would be yes. So as we've either done ticket price increases or shallower everyday deal promotions when we then do go to a sharper promotion, whether it's on the try it to believe it days or even on other, what we would call power promotions, a buy one, get one free event on our 3-Wick candles, for example, we are seeing nice strong reactions to those promotions to your point, showing that while the customer has gotten accustomed to the higher prices, they still do really respond well when we do that deeper promo.
And to the second part of your question on semiannual sale. Semiannual sale last year, we did run one, but it was at significantly shallower discounts than we are historically. And the penetration within that semiannual sale driven by clearance merchandise and specifically bought for sale merchandise was down meaningfully over prior years and in 2021, which will be calendar 2022 for that Jan sale, we are expecting a return to a more traditional approach to semiannual sale, both in terms of depth of offer and in terms of amount of clearance and bought for sale versus history.
Marni Shapiro:
Excellent.
Andrew Meslow:
And that's all embedded in our guidance as well.
Marni Shapiro:
I figured your promotions are doing well. Sometimes it's like a frenzy in your store when you run some of them.
Andrew Meslow:
We do like a frenzy as long as we're all safe and socially distant.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni. That concludes our call today. Thanks for your interest in Bath & Body Works. And we wish you all a healthy and Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks. Bye.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, everybody.
Operator:
Thank you for your participation. Participants, you may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Cedric, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2021 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I would now like to turn today's call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Senior Vice President, Investor Relations and Company Affairs at L Brands. Thank you. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning. Welcome to L Brands first quarter earnings conference call for the period ending May 1, 2021. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases.
Joining me on the call today are Andrew Meslow, CEO of L Brands and Bath & Body Works; Martin Waters, CEO of Victoria's Secret; and Stuart Burgdoerfer, CFO of L Brands. All results we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the special items described in our press release. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We delivered record results in the first quarter, and we could not have done so without the continued dedication and extraordinary efforts of our team of associates and partners. Our adjusted earnings per share of $1.25 significantly exceeded our initial earnings guidance of $0.35 to $0.45, driven by stronger sales and higher merchandise margin rates than we initially forecasted.
Performance was strong across the whole quarter. March benefited from stimulus payments hitting customer bank accounts, and we ended the quarter strong with good Mother's Day holiday performance at both businesses. At Bath & Body Works, we continue to deliver record results. Our U.S. and Canada stores increased sales by 47% compared to 2019, and our direct channel sales increased 123% versus 2019. All categories achieved solid growth, and strong sales demand continued to allow us to pull back on promotional activity. Operating income in the first quarter was $380 million, an increase of 127% compared to 2019. Our operating income rate for the quarter of 25.9% increased 760 basis points compared to 2019, driven by merchandise margin rate expansion and leverage in both buying and occupancy and SG&A on the high sales growth.
As we announced last week, our Board has unanimously approved a plan to separate the company into 2 independent public companies:
Bath & Body Works, one of the world's leading bath, body and home fragrance retailers; and Victoria's Secret, including Victoria's Secret Lingerie, PINK and Victoria's Secret Beauty, a leading retailer of intimates and beauty products.
We expect to create these companies through a tax-free spin-off of Victoria's Secret to L Brands' shareholders. We believe the spin-off will enable each company to maximize management focus and financial flexibility to thrive in an evolving retail environment and to deliver profitable growth. The Board evaluated the possibility of either a spin-off or a sale of Victoria's Secret with input from its financial advisers, Goldman Sachs and JPMorgan. Throughout the review process, the company received significant interest from and held substantive discussions with multiple potential buyers. Ultimately, the Board concluded that the spin-off of Victoria's Secret into a separate public company would provide shareholders with more value than a sale. This decision follows a significant progress we have made over the last 10 months in the turnaround of the Victoria's Secret business, implementing merchandise and marketing initiatives to drive top line growth as well as executing on a series of cost-reduction actions, which together have dramatically increased profitability. As a result of these efforts, Victoria's Secret is now well positioned to operate as a stand-alone public company. We expect that the balance of 2021 will not be easy as the world, the retail environment and our enterprise and business continue to evolve and we lap extraordinary results. But with continued smart and disciplined management of the business, I know we can proactively accelerate to our next phase of growth. We're excited to share the details of our vision for both companies as we get closer to the targeted spin-off date in August. Thanks, and now I'll turn it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Andrew, and good morning, everyone. The Victoria's Secret business continued its transformation with an exceptional first quarter performance. Total comparable sales increased by 9% compared to 2019, and our gross profit rate increased by more than 1,100 basis points. Compared to 2019, operating income increased by $213 million or 665% to $245 million, with an operating income rate of 15.7%.
Customers are noticing and applauding our efforts to reposition the brand. We began that work by listening both to our customers and to our associates. We heard from them what they love about our brand, including the unmatched beauty, quality, fit and innovation in our products. And we also heard clearly what they want from us as a brand, which is all about representing and celebrating all women and being there for every moment of their life, including supporting and advocating the things that matter most to them, and that's exactly what we're doing. We're committed to creating lifelong relationships with customers by reflecting them, their stories, their journey, in everything we do. And you're starting to see those changes come to life, most recently with our Mother's Day campaign, our Bombshell Because campaign and the PINK mental health month campaign, which are all great examples of how we're reflecting, celebrating and championing our customers and the different moments and dimensions of their lives. Our team is fully dedicated to this repositioning work, and we could not be more excited about where we're going. I look forward to sharing more details as the work progresses. We're also heavily focused on the great work that's being done to rebuild a happy and healthy culture at Victoria's. While much has already been accomplished, I'm highly energized by the opportunities that we have in front of us to reposition and grow this iconic brand as a stand-alone public business. And with that, I'll thank you and pass it over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Great quarter. And before we launch in, I just want to say congratulations to Stuart. I think this is your last call with us. Is that correct?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Probably so, Kimberly. We'll see. Probably so. Thank you very much. It's been a real joy and pleasure and real honor. Thank you.
Kimberly Greenberger:
It's been a really, really impressive career, Stuart, and we've enjoyed the journey with you.
I wanted to know if -- Andrew, if you could just talk to us about the new Bath & Body Works fulfillment center. Obviously, you've had an explosive digital business over the last year. It seems like you're sort of planning additional capacity to continue to grow that business. Maybe you could just talk to us about the strategy, the rationale and when you think that facility is going to be complete, that would be excellent.
Andrew Meslow:
Great. Thank you for the question, Kimberly. So to your point, yes, we continue to see tremendous growth out of our Bath & Body Works online business. As we just reported, results on a 2-year basis for the direct channel were up 123% in the first quarter, and that's after the full year 2020 where the business essentially doubled. So very pleased with the momentum we continue to see there.
As you referenced, we are continuing to increase dramatically our fulfillment capacity. We were surprised to the upside last year at the beginning of the pandemic. And while our partners did a great job of expanding capacity throughout the year, we referenced in our script that we were a little bit backlogged at the end of the first quarter last year. And so we'll feel some of that impact on a year-over-year basis in the second quarter. But as we're looking out to the long term, while we've been very, very satisfied with our ability to work with third-party providers on our fulfillment capability, we also recognize as this business becomes larger and larger, we want the opportunity to also have some of the capability in-house, which is why we are adding the additional center that you're referencing. While we'll start to work in that center through the year this year, it really won't be online for full capacity until the back half of 2022. So while we'll get some benefit from it in early 2022, it's really preparing for the holiday peak at the end of next year that we'll be reliant on that new capability. We're also adding a lot of automation into that center, which will be new and cutting edge for us as we continue to figure out how to operate all of our fulfillment centers as both efficiently and effectively as possible go forward.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I wanted to ask a question about the comp drivers for both businesses over the medium term. In your end, Martin, can you talk a little bit about your confidence in the pace of innovation that you're developing now to continue to drive consistent same-store sales in the coming years?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine. Andrew, do you want to start?
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. So thank you for the question, Lorraine. At the highest level, I would reiterate that the way we look at our business across all of our businesses is asking ourselves the question first, are we, in fact, in the right categories. And as you can imagine, especially here over the last 18 months, the strong answer to that question for the Bath & Body Works business has been an absolute yes, whether it's the soap and sanitizer business that obviously has gotten a lot of momentum appropriately here during the pandemic; but then also our home fragrance business as people have shifted their lifestyles to be spending a lot more time at home; and then our body care business, which represents a real opportunity for people to treat themselves and to have a spa day, if you will, without ever leaving the house.
And so certainly, those have been great product categories to be in, in the short term here. But we also look at those categories in terms of where they've been over the last 10 years, which has been consistent growth in each of those 3 big market categories. And as we look out into the future, we continue to see a lot of opportunity for growth across the categories themselves, and therefore, our ability to continue to gain and maintain very high market shares in each of them. As we think about what innovation will look like within the categories, we are very, very reliant on big key items within our big categories. And those key items represent a disproportionate share of our business. About 75% of our business comes from our biggest 10 or 11 items. So one of the things we're always looking at is the opportunity to launch new key items within our existing categories. So that is certainly something that you'll continue to see us work on whether, for example, things like moisturizing body wash or bar soap or additional candle and soap forms beyond the big forms that we already operate in. And then we're obviously very interested in, what I'll call, adjacent white space to our big 3 existing categories. And so we're constantly testing into things like hair care and skin care that are, again, large market cap areas of opportunity from a mid- to long-term basis. The last thing I would emphasize is that across all of our product categories, we're also continuing to focus on innovation and newness around more natural, good-for-you and good-for-the-planet strategies, whether that's around the ingredients themselves or around the packaging. And so those will continue to be efforts that you'll hear -- that you'll see and hear us focus more on as we go forward. So hopefully, that helps in terms of how we're thinking about it.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Sure. So similar to what Andrew said, we feel very good about the categories that we operate in. Maybe if I touch on 4 or 5 things that have been really driving the comps, and then I'll address your question about innovation. So what's been really working for us to drive those comps are, firstly, better merchandise, particularly with a focus on good, better, best structures and really sharp opening price points.
Second thing would be the improved brand positioning, moving from a position of, frankly, being irrelevant to being relevant, for being for him to for her, being more inclusive rather than exclusive. And the customer is really noticing and voting with their wallet. So that's great. I think thirdly, substantially better merchandise planning and allocation. When we're at our best, we go into the season only 50% bought and then we chase into real-time winners. And that's worked very well for us in the back half of '20 and into '21. And then finally, I would say our enhanced digital capability and our store teams really showing up to make the best of the traffic that they have. Traffic is down significantly in stores, and our store teams have made a great effort to build on dollars per footstep. So those are things that have driven comp to date and will continue to drive comp. As it relates to innovation, we feel really good about lots of things that we've got in the hopper, particularly new bra frames. At Victoria's, we haven't had new bra launches at the pace or rate that we should have had in the last 3 years, and we're getting back into newness in bras. We're also seeing new technology in fabrication. That's really helping. And of course, we like to think we're at the cutting edge of fashion and color and that we've chosen well in each of those 2 dimensions. So that's really what's driving the business. Thanks for the question, Lorraine.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Dana Telsey with Telsey Group.
Dana Telsey:
And Stuart, certainly has been a pleasure. Best of luck. As you think about the Victoria's Secret brand and the new marketing that you've put in place, you mentioned the strong Mother's Day that you've had. What -- marketing as a percent of sales, how are you thinking about it? What are your other initiatives with marketing that we should be looking forward to as we move on this year? And BOPIS was something that was mentioned as an initiative, where are you in each brand? And how does that come to fruition?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. I'll try and remember those questions in order, but you might need to prompt me, Dana. So our intention over the long run is to get back to investing about 5% to retail sales in the Victoria's Secret brand. So if you think about us aspiring to a $7 billion brand, we'd be spending $350 million supporting that brand across a wide range of activities. What's different about that is the way that we spend money in the modern era is completely different than the way we spent money historically. So you should see very significant change there.
The second part of the question, remind me, Amie.
Andrew Meslow:
BOPIS.
Martin Waters:
Was about BOPIS. So as you know, we were late to the party on BOPIS and ship from store, but we are there now. So we now have about 100 stores up and running with both of those 2 activities. And we will be moving that to 200 stores by the end of June. That, we think, covers most of the nation. So both of those initiatives are exciting. Obviously, Buy Online Pickup In Store is well regarded by customers. But the ship from store is particularly interesting for us because it enables us to leverage inventory where it exists rather than where we'd like it to be. So very significant there.
And then I think the third part of the question...
Amie Preston:
I think that was it.
Martin Waters:
Was that it? Other marketing initiatives. I think it was -- what else we should expect for the marketing initiatives. So you should expect that we will start to invest in digital media more fully than we have historically. You should expect that we will have people representing for our brand who are more inclusive and more diverse, who represent our customer base in a much more inclusive way than we have done historically. I think those are the key points to note.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Dana, so in terms of Bath & Body Works and Buy Online, Pick Up In Store capability, as a reminder, we had, had that in works, fortunately, as a pilot right as the pandemic hit last year. So we were able to roll that out in a limited way last year, really primarily in markets that were either fully shut down or experienced very, very tight capacity constraints. And so we got some very critical learning around the capability as we went through the back half of 2020.
As we come into 2021 now, we've been able to roll out the BOPIS capability to right around 400 stores as we finished off Q1, and we intend to roll that to an additional 100 stores by the end of the second quarter. Primarily, as you might imagine, this is a capability that appears to be most effective and both well received in our off-mall locations, where it's easier for the customer to drive up and enter the store without having to walk through the mall. And we also, in general, have more space in those locations in order to be able to accommodate the packing and checkout required for BOPIS. We're very, very pleased and excited. We've gotten both great qualitative feedback from customers on the capability, and the early financial results are also promising. So definitely something that we're excited about rolling out further. And as we think about the future and build-out, especially of our off-mall locations, we'll be taking into account how to design stores in order to even better accommodate the BOPIS and ship-from-store capabilities. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Congrats on another really nice quarter. So maybe this one is for Andrew and Martin. As we exit the pandemic, are you seeing any slowdown in top line momentum so far at all in the second quarter at either concept? And on profitability, could you just help walk through the drivers by concept of what's embedded in the low-40s gross margin forecast for the second quarter?
Amie Preston:
Sure. Andrew, do you want to start?
Andrew Meslow:
So on the first part of your question, Matt, I think we said in our prepared remarks that May has gotten off to a good start, a start that I'll say in Bath & Body Works is in line with the results that we were seeing in the first quarter and that, that is embedded already in the guidance ranges that we provided.
From a category standpoint, what we also called out was that we saw a very balanced performance within the first quarter within our big 3 categories. And I would say that, that trend has also continued so far into the second quarter, and we would expect it to continue for the balance of the quarter.
Amie Preston:
Margin rate outlook?
Andrew Meslow:
I'm sorry?
Amie Preston:
Margin rate outlook?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. So when we think about -- I'll comment on merchandise margin, if that's helpful. From a standpoint of merchandise margin improvement that we saw through 2020, as you know, was very significant as we were able to pull back dramatically on promotional activity. And that momentum, as we called out, also continued into the second quarter.
We would not expect the second quarter merchandise margin on a year-over-year basis to improve. And that's really because last year, we had essentially no semiannual sale activity versus this year, a more normal year with more normal approaches to the business, we will have that. So historically, if you look back at margin over -- Q2 compared to Q1, our merchandise margin has tended to decline quarter-over-quarter by about 400 to 500 basis points. And when we look back and compare to 2019, which is really what we're trying to do as a more normal year, that's the type of relationship that we would expect here in the second quarter.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Substantially similar picture to what Andrew described in terms of the first quarter. So we accelerated into the back half of the first quarter, meaning that the latter 2 months were stronger than the first month. And May has been about the same as we saw from April, and that's really encouraging given that the stimulus effect has obviously been done and is behind us. So we're seeing very good momentum that we expect to continue.
What's also very pleasing is that as store traffic has started to pick up, our digital momentum has not slowed down. So all in all, feeling very positive about both channels of growth. Margin has been exceptional, as I said in my opening remarks, up about 900 basis points in merchandise margin to Q1. And we expect Q2 to be about the same level of increase year-over-year. In all major categories, margin growth is outpacing sales growth. So feeling good across the board. As it relates to the very back half of the year, don't know. We could expect to see some cost pressure. We might expect to see some impact from COVID in our base of supply. So we're deliberately not giving guidance on the back half of the year at this time. But what can see for Q2 looks absolutely fine.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Congrats on the ongoing strength. And Stuart, I'll echo the well-reserved -- well-deserved congrats, and best wishes on the next chapter.
So the flow-through on the stimulus sales was really impressive for both brands. So interestingly, higher at Victoria's. Can you speak to the right way to think about incremental margins at this point? Maybe what in that math is onetime versus more structural and a sustainable reset? And then the VS International operating loss shifting to breakeven was great to see. Congrats on those initiatives. How are you thinking about international profitability or pressure going forward?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So the stimulus effect was about 1/3 of our beat to the guidance that we gave at the beginning of the quarter. So we think about where we were at the beginning of the quarter and where we ended up, about 1/3 of that beat was due to stimulus, we estimate. We have pretty good techniques for our estimation, so we feel pretty confident in that number.
As it relates to the international business, the pickup is primarily due to 2 very significant areas of restructure that we put in place during the back half of the year and the early part of 2021. And these are obviously in the U.K. and China. In both cases, we have exited the losses in those businesses through some very, very good work to put them on a much more sound footing going forward. So with those losses behind us, we can really focus on the best bits of the business, which are in 2 areas. Firstly, the digital, meaning direct-to-consumer, where we currently ship to about 200 countries and territories around the world. And that business has been booming during COVID. And we see lots of opportunity for growth there, particularly moving to new languages. So we launched in Japanese and Korean within Q2. It should be good opportunities for us. And then secondly in the franchise business, where we feel very good about the partners that we have, operating businesses for us around the world. They've been through a tough time with many markets closed, particularly thinking about Continental Europe, very difficult. But the signs for the future are very strong in those regards. The one area of international that hasn't come back yet, and I'm not sure it will anytime soon, is travel retail. But happily, that's a relatively small part of our business and not one where we feel exposure from an operating income point of view. So across the board, feeling pretty optimistic, Simeon.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Let me add my congratulations to -- for a phenomenal quarter and dramatic improvement over the past year. My question is for both Andrew and Martin. I'm just wondering, any initiatives or general updates around customer loyalty and loyalty programs that you can share for each brand? I know that for BBW, it's something that you are testing. Probably the past year hasn't been a great environment to expand that. But curious to get an update as you're thinking about generating that customer loyalty program. And then any steps that you can share about new customer acquisition over the past year, which I'm assuming was fairly robust online?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne. Andrew, you want to start?
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. Thanks for the question, Roxanne. So I'm actually going to answer the second part of your question first, just to talk about general customer performance and growth because I think it plays into then our approach on the loyalty program that you were asking about.
So as a reminder, when we talked about customers through the year in 2020, despite very, very strong customer response and reactivation through the back half of 2020 and based on the fact that our stores were essentially closed for 90 days in the first half of 2020, we did actually finish the year in customer count at Bath & Body Works down in the low single digits percentage-wise to last year. What's great news to be able to report is that tremendously strong performance in Q1 has not only closed that gap, but we're now running up low single digits on a rolling 12 basis to 2 years ago. And so a very nice turnaround based on strong customer acquisition and customer retention that we saw in really the last 3 quarters sequentially. So as we then think about, to your question, the loyalty program, the loyalty program is one that we have been piloting for the last several years. As a reminder, it's in just under 300 stores that we've been conducting those pilots in. And while we've been very pleased with the results in those areas, we have not been all that pleased with the flexibility of our loyalty application, the actual program itself. And so as discussed on prior calls, we are in the process of updating that program and that application. And we will be rolling it out to additional markets, about another 50-or-so stores later this year. And again, assuming good response to that, our intent would be to roll it out more fully sometime in 2022. The results that we see with that loyalty program even as it exists today, though, is better retention, obviously, of our customers and better overall responsiveness, both things that we will really be excited to be able to further leverage once we have that program rolled out more fully.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. We feel very good about where we are in terms of customer loyalty. Our best customers have been responding very well to the changes that we've made around the brand, particularly in new categories that we've reentered. So in our swim business, we've seen particular affinity from our best customers and our most loyal customers. So that's really gratifying to see.
And I'm delighted to tell you that after several seasons of decline in the size of our customer file, in the last 1/3 of the year, we've actually seen an increase in our customer file. So that is incredibly encouraging proof points that our repositioning is working. As you know, I think our loyalty is tied to a credit card. And that's fine. We enjoy great success and great customer advocacy and communication through that tool. But we are committed to getting into a loyalty program that will not be tied to the credit card. And we will have tests in place on that towards the end of this year, stroke early in 2022. Thanks for the question, Simeon (sic) [ Roxanne ].
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Lauren Frasch:
This is Lauren Frasch on for Ike. Congratulations on a great quarter. I wanted to dig a bit more into how your thinking has shifted around VS margins now that you're managing to a mid-teens target. Could you walk us through how you got to the mid-teens as the appropriate level? And maybe how quickly you think VS can get there given its current trajectory?
And as a quick follow-up, VS margins are clearly on a very robust trajectory right now as a result of the changes you've made. Is there any reason to expect that margin should not continue to expand relative to 2020 through the remainder of the year? Is there anything in the cost structure that needs to normalize in the second half that might result in margins being flat or maybe down?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lauren. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So we feel very good about where our merchandise margin rates are. I think you probably have the history, but our OI rate is close to our historical high for a Q1. So operating income at $245 million is about to -- about where we were in 2017. Only 2016 was higher at $280 million.
The 15.7% that we proved for that quarter, we feel good about that kind of level go forward. We've said that we expect to manage the business to a mid-teens operating income. That's below where we've been on the historical high. And that kind of reflects the need for some further investments in the business where we haven't made investment in the last few years because times have been tough. So we don't want to overpromise on the margin. We want to give ourselves some room to be able to reinvest in the business, particularly in marketing strategies, but also reinvestment in our stores, which have been somewhat light in terms of investment over recent years. The good news that I can tell you is that, that margin growth is across all categories, and we do expect it to continue into the back half of the year. All of that said, we don't want to get too fascinated with our merchandise margin rates being at peak highs. We want to be more satisfied with delighting our customers, making sure we're reinvesting in the brand and putting our best foot forward for the long term. But absolutely no reason to doubt that we can operate this brand in the mid-teens.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Susan Anderson with B. Riley.
Susan Anderson:
Nice job in the quarter. I'm curious for the PINK business. Did you see at all a pickup in sales, do you think, related to some students returning to the classroom this spring? And then also just curious what your expectations are for back to school or back to college this year. And at VS, I'm curious if there's new plans for expansion of the lounge category and if you expect to continue to grow sport within that again.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Susan. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. I'll take that one. So the PINK business has been terrific. And in particular -- the PINK business particularly accelerated towards the back half of the quarter and is having an excellent May. So super strong performance, really good reaction to the new merchandise that Amy and the team have developed, but also to the brand positioning that they are pursuing.
I think that, that strength is driven more by good fashion, being in good categories and delivering great marketing strategies rather than a return to campus. So we don't -- in campuses and towns and cities where we see a higher level of return of students, we don't really see a difference in performance there. The same is true with states where COVID has been relaxed, we're not really seeing a material difference. So what that tells us is the main thing is the main thing in the fashion business, which is having good merchandise and good marketing. So feel great about that. I think if Amy was on the call, she would remind me to point out that the growth has been particularly strong in intimates because that's our core. So double-digit comp same-store sales growth in our intimates business. Super strong performance in the logo business, which is particularly encouraging for the health of the brand. And maybe a couple of other snippets would be shorts are in. It's a good season for shorts. It's a good season for tie-dyes. It's a good season for yellow. And we've been on all of those trends. So big congrats to the PINK team. As it relates to the Victoria's business, yes, lounge has been great for us during COVID, and we intend to continue to invest in that category. The merchants in that area have just done a superb job. And we're starting to get to the point where we say, "Wow, our stores are too small again" because there's so much good merchandise coming. All of that said, we are a bra business. We are fundamentally a lingerie business. The most important category for us to win in is the bra business, and that has the most attention around here. And we're determined to win back customers in that core category of intimates. And what we're seeing in terms of results is that, that is working. So the mantra that I would remind you of, Susan, is growth from the core, most important. Sports bras, we've been underweight. It's a category where we've been too light. We haven't had enough investment, and we will be course-correcting that in the back half of the year. Hope that helps.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Martin. Thanks, Susan.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Jenna Giannelli with Goldman Sachs.
Jenna Giannelli:
Just as a follow-on to the margin question earlier. I'm wondering if you can extrapolate a little bit more on the potential for inflationary and/or supply chain headwinds in the second half that you mentioned in your prepared comments. Just a little bit on the magnitude of them, if it's labor, if it's distribution, freight, et cetera, and then really what you feel your strongest levers are to mitigate some of these pressures.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jenna. We're going to go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So just to comment broadly on it, and Andrew and Martin have also mentioned it, there are certainly risks out there and potential pressures. But for the back half of the year, we haven't provided guidance. And as we do so, we'll try to incorporate those views as we move through the year. But hard to quantify at this time. And obviously, the businesses are taking steps to mitigate some of the pressure. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Janine Stichter with Jefferies.
Janine Stichter:
Congrats on the progress. Just a clarification on the commentary on the quarter-to-date trend. I think you said for both brands, they had been tracking similar to 1Q. Is this similar to the 1Q rate ex stimulus? And I'm just curious what your expectation is for consumers. Have they spent most of their stimulus in your mind? Or is there still potentially some benefits that flow into 2Q?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janine. Andrew, do you want to start?
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. To your point, Janine, on a clarification basis, we would say it's in line to the stimulus adjusted trend to slightly better. And speaking on behalf of Bath & Body Works, the stimulus benefit that we saw was primarily in March with a little bit of carryover into April. But really not seeing any lingering stimulus benefit through late April and into May so far.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Kind of same answer to Andrew, the clarification point being that May has been similar to the back half of Q1, which was better than the beginning half of Q1. So that's good. And yes, we think that stimulus is behind us, and so we're not planning any benefit from that go forward.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. We'll take 2 more questions. We got to end a little early today to get to our annual meeting.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Marni Shapiro with Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Congratulations. So exciting. And welcome back, I guess, in a way. Martin, if you could just talk a little bit more high level about you've been with this company a long time, with Victoria's Secret a very long time. You've seen different iterations of the brand. Can you just talk, I guess, high level about the point of view you see the brand taking going forward? They've had the whole sexy bombshell things, the everyday thing, the active thing. Just in general, I guess, big categories and point of view that you see the brand taking going forward.
Martin Waters:
Yes. Brilliant. Thanks, Marni. I could take up the rest of the call with this one. This is my favorite. I'll try and be brief. It starts with the notion of redefining our purpose. We have a clear reason why we exist at Victoria's now, and that is to inspire women around the world with products and experiences that uplift them and champion them and support their journey. It's their narrative, not ours.
And so how will we accomplish that? Well, we think about it in terms of creating lifelong relationships with women by reflecting what's important to them, what journey they're on, what stage in their life they're at, and perhaps more importantly, creating positive change for women through the power of our products and our platform. And also our advocacy. So advocacy is a big, big word for us going forward. And I have a bold ambition that Victoria's should be the world's biggest and best advocate for women. And that's incredibly powerful vision and mission for us to aim towards, and it's energizing for all of our people. And it does reflects a very significant turnaround from where we've been, where we're moving from what men want to what women want. We're moving from sexy for a few to sexy for all. We're moving from a look to a feeling. It's about including most women rather than excluding most women and being grounded in real life rather than mostly unattainable. So I couldn't underscore how significant this turnaround and this repositioning is. It's a very dramatic change for us, and we have significant proof points already at this early stage in our journey that this is what the customer wants from us. So expect more. Thanks, Marni.
Marni Shapiro:
I am so excited about this. Congratulations and best of luck. It's brilliant and overdue.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni. I'm tempted to end right there, but have one more.
Operator:
The final question comes from William Reuter with Bank of America.
William Reuter:
I'll make it quick. The first is your leverage target had been 2.5 to 3x, is that still what you think with regard to the legacy LB or the BBW business? And then you got $2.8 billion of cash, which is a ton. Do you have thoughts on what you're going to do with that?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Bill. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Bill, on capital structure, a few points to register. The first is the company's in great shape. We ended the quarter with $2.8 billion of cash, and the maturity profile of our debt is very well spaced out with not a lot of near-term maturity. So I really -- on the subject, I want to start there, we're in a very good place.
The spin decision was made about 10 days ago. We're working with JPMorgan and Goldman Sachs on the subjects you asked about. VS is going to have some debt. The proceeds of that debt will be dividended to LB. We want the leverage for both VS and BBW to be well balanced and to compare appropriately to their respective peers. And it's a work in process. And it's all worked that the Board will review and approve as we move through the next month or 2. You asked a specific question about BBW go-forward leverage. The range that you mentioned seems about right. But again, it's preliminary. We've got a little bit more work to do. We're going to strike the right balance and more discussion to come with the Board. Thank you, Bill.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, all. That concludes our call this morning, and thank you for your interest in L Brands. Bye.
Operator:
Thank you. And that concludes today's conference. You may all disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Catherine, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome you to the L Brands' Fourth Quarter 2020 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. If you have any objections, you may disconnect at this time.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Senior Vice President, Investor Relations and company affairs for L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' fourth quarter earnings conference call for the period ending January 30, 2021. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make on our call today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases.
Joining me on the call today are Andrew Meslow, CEO of L Brands and Bath & Body Works; Martin Waters, CEO of Victoria's Secret; and Stuart Burgdoerfer, CFO of L Brands. All results we've discussed on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the special items described in our press release. Thanks, and I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Amie. And good morning, everyone. As we reported last night, we delivered record results in the fourth quarter, and we could not have done so without the hard work and dedication of our whole team of associates and partners. We'd like to express our deep appreciation for their continued dedication and efforts.
Before we take your questions this morning, I thought it would be appropriate to take a few minutes to reflect on the year we just completed, which presented many challenges but, at the same time, yielded so many accomplishments in our business. To highlight just a few of these accomplishments for L Brands in total:
we led with our values and an emphasis on safety so we could be confident in our decisions and actions to support associates customers and our business. We shifted how we ran the business and, thanks the technology, didn't miss a beat in managing the calendar and processes that drive our businesses each day. We created ways to navigate the pandemic and support our associates and partners to ensure we could continue to deliver results. We took significant actions to increase liquidity and ended the year with $3.9 billion in cash and delivered $1.8 billion in free cash flow. We restructured the organization to prepare us to operate as 2 separate businesses go forward. We successfully spread business across the fall season with sales volume and margin rates that outpaced expectations.
While the above comments reflect what we did tactically, it's also important to reflect on how we got there, particularly in a year where we saw a substantial social unrest and political divisiveness. The leadership of the business focused on advancing a healthy, high-performance culture, including efforts around diversity, equity and inclusion for ourselves, our business and our communities. In addition to continuing to develop our internal leadership talent, we also recruited a number of new leaders in important roles that both deepen our capability and add to the diversity of our team. Shifting now to accomplishments that relate specifically to Bath & Body Works. For the year, we increased sales by $1.1 billion or 20%, and operating income by over $600 million or 50%, and delivered results we could not have predicted in the middle of a global pandemic and a year of significant change. We further enhanced our brand positioning with evolved designs, strong product acceptance, emotionally-compelling on-trend, seasonally-right merchandise and marketing. We matched our customers' mindset about wellness, self-care and nesting at home. And we established soaps and sanitizers as true traffic drivers and a solid third pillar of the business. We continue to leverage our speed and agility and made smart choices to plan and replan the business and manage inventory to commercialize, chase and allocate product and divert and move inventory where it was most needed while also building continuity and capacity into our supply chain and a larger network of fulfillment and distribution centers, all of which gave us a velocity of inventory flow to match increased demands for our products. We more than doubled our U.S. direct business to $2 billion or 31% of the total business inside of 12 months, breaking high watermarks multiple times during the year. And importantly, we were among the safest as well as most fun and festive place in the mall for Christmas. We expect that 2021 will not be easy as the world, the retail environment and our enterprise and business continue to evolve and as we lap these extraordinary 2020 results. But with continued smart management of the brand and business, I know we can become a fully separate, stand-alone public corporation and proactively accelerate to our next phase of growth. Thank you. And with that, I'll turn it over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Andrew, and good morning, everyone. First, let me say how excited I am to be joining you this morning and for the opportunity that I have to lead the Victoria's Secret business. The Victoria's Secret team, led by Stuart, has accomplished a remarkable turnaround in the last 6 months. In the full season, we delivered about a $400 million or 300% increase in operating income at a profit rate of 15% of sales. And that's a result of improved merchandise assortments, more disciplined inventory management, better management of promotions, effective selling execution online and in stores and, of course, the positive impact of our profit improvement plan. While much has already been accomplished, I'm highly energized by the opportunities that we have in front of us to reposition and grow this iconic brand as a stand-alone business.
Thanks, and I'll turn it over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. We are all in different locations today. So I'm going to do my best to direct the questions to the right folks. [Operator Instructions]
Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Catherine.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] The first question is coming from Simeon Siegel, BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Big congrats on such a nice way to cap the year. So congrats. Andrew, soaps and sanitizers aside, can you speak to any changes you observed in how your customers shop during the pandemic, what you think proves longer lasting? Maybe just help us think through characterizing the growth of new customers versus higher frequency of shop versus higher AUR?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon. Andrew, obviously.
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. Thank you, Simeon, for the question. So on your first part of the question, in terms of growth outside of soaps and sanitizers, I think it's just important to remind everyone, and we've said it in the prepared remarks in both Q3 and Q4. Soaps and sanitizer was a significant growth driver for the business in 2020, really the whole year. But as we called out, we saw about 2/3 of the growth come from outside of soaps and sanitizers. And as we've said on prior calls, really, the biggest trend within that 2/3 has been in our home fragrance business. As we've seen the customer, clearly, he or she is spending more time at home and spending more attention on making their home a comfortable place to do business, schooling, et cetera. We've seen, again, continued strong growth there.
But importantly, on the year, we did see strong double-digit comp growth in all of our categories. So again, a very balanced performance with the exception, as you mentioned, of soaps and sanitizers that really experienced outsized growth across the entire time frame. When you think -- when we think about customer behavior in general, we did see that our customer spending across all categories and across both channels was up significantly year-over-year. From a total number of customers, because we had stores closed for about 90 days in the first half of the year and because the store customer -- store-only customer at the beginning of the year represented a little over 3/4 of our total customers. That did mean that we saw a decline in number of customers who shopped in stores for fiscal 2020, but we were able to almost fully offset that by the increase that we saw in our direct customers and in our dual-channel customers. So while we finished 2020 with a slight decline in the total number of customers, we did see customer engagement metrics improved substantially. So spending by all customers up over 20% and, importantly, strong growth in both direct and dual customers. And as a reminder, dual customer -- dual-channel customers spend on order of magnitude more than 3x a single channel customer. And then the last piece I would emphasize is that, again, we saw strong cross-category growth in customers, meaning number of customers who shop multiple categories within the business as opposed to just 1. And as we saw that strong growth really led by customers engaging in soaps and sanitizers, we saw that spending also increased substantially. So hopefully, that helps.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Lorraine Hutchinson, Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Andrew, I was hoping to get your perspective on longer-term -- on the longer-term outlook for Bath & Body Works margins. If we use 2019 as a base, can you talk through the puts and takes and where you see the opportunity for margins to shake out post-2020 and into the coming 2 to 3 years?
Andrew Meslow:
Lorraine, thanks for the question. So obviously, we went into a little bit of detail in our prepared remarks last evening. So important to recognize that 2020 was definitely an outlier year in terms of the operating margin results that we achieved at $28.5 million, which, as you're pointing out, was up substantially to even 2018 and 2019, which were very good years for the business, up over 500 basis points. When we look at that operating margin improvement, about half of that improvement came from significant gains in merchandise margin rates.
And again, those merchandise margin rate improvements were achieved by significantly reducing promotional activity within the year. And that promotional activity was against all of our different vehicles. So we saw less clearance selling, more full price selling. We saw fewer days of power traffic-driving promotions. We were able to actually take promotion on pricing, up even on essentially flat ticket pricing. And we had fewer shop-wide discounts than we had offered historically through e-mail or direct mail. So as we think about that level of improvement, our assumption is that we will have to give some of that improvement that we saw in fiscal 2020 back as we move beyond the snapback, if you will. The stores got reopened and the tremendous growth that we saw in our direct channel demand up over 100% for the year. So as we begin to lap some of that activity, we do expect that some of that merchandise margin gain, we will have to give back. But as you know and we've talked about on many calls in the past, we are constantly doing read-and-react testing to understand what our customers are responding to in terms of promotions, what it's required to drive both traffic as well as customer acquisition and unit selling to maintain market share or gain market share. So those are all important considerations that we will use as we move through 2021 and beyond. The other half of the operating margin improvement that we saw in 2020 was really driven by leverage of both SG&A and buying occupancy on, obviously, the very high sales growth. Total sales grew by 20% for the year. And comp sales in the time frame that we were open grew by 45%. So obviously, we do not expect that level of ongoing sales growth. And so there will be some deleverage as we return to more normal sales growth go forward and as we continue to make investments into our operating costs around safety and supplies into wages and labor in stores and supply chain and into investments in capability in digital and omnichannel. So the net-net of all that is, as we said in our prepared remarks, we do believe that the right long-term operating margin structure for the BBW segment as it currently exists is in that low to mid-20s. But the pace at which we get to that will be completely dependent on the business results that we see and, as I described, the continuous testing that we'll do throughout the year. Hopefully, that makes sense.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Ike Boruchow of Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I'm not sure this question would be for -- maybe Stuart, if he's on, but just 2 quick ones on the Victoria's Secret business. I guess, I'm not sure how much color you could give us. But just curious if -- could you give us some color on if there is -- if and when there is a potential sale of the business, how to think about tax leakage in that scenario?
And then again, I know you're not giving guidance on Vickie's, but given the trajectory, it seems like the business is scaling pretty quickly. It seems like EBITDA for that brand could approach $1 billion, potentially, this year. Just any color on what your expectations are for go forward profitability would be helpful.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike. Stuart, yes?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thank you. So as you point out in your question, I -- we're pursuing a dual path approach to the separation of Victoria's Secret. Dual path, meaning looking at a spin option where Victoria's would become its own public company. And separately, a sale option where we would sell it to a third-party. And I think as you mentioned in your question, a sales scenario, very likely to have a significant tax cost to it. Whereas a spin-off done in the appropriate way, which would certainly be our intent, would be a tax-free transaction. So it's one of many considerations. But obviously, the tax leakage could be significant in the sales scenario. And that with a range of other factors will be considered by the Board as we work through this process, we'll get the right advice from legal and banking council and so on. But the spin option is a tax-free option where we believe it can be accomplished in that way. And that would be one of the advantages of a spin option. So that would be our perspective on that.
And then, Ike, as we commented on in our prepared comments that got circulated in terms of the profitability of VS NewCo, what we mentioned and what I believe, Martin believes, we believe, is that the business can be managed well and deliver meaningful growth. In an operating income rate range, an EBIT range of between 10% and 15%. And as many of you have recognized, we're basically in that range at this point with the meaningful progress that we made in the back half of the year. So this should be a 10% to 15% business. We'll obviously shift more to growth as we move forward. And the dollarization of that is meaningful, whether it's on an EBIT basis or an EBITDA basis. And we're excited about the growth of the business.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Roxanne Meyer, MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Thanks and congratulations on your strong results for the quarter and the year. My question is around BBW store growth strategy, specifically on international. I'm just -- I'm curious what the long-term strategy is there and as part of that, any thoughts around developing an own store strategy versus franchise?
And then if you could, I'm also curious to hear, I know that almost half of your U.S. stores are off mall. Are there certain characteristics of your top-performing off-mall locations or formats that you can point to?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Roxanne, thanks for the question. So on the first part of your question regarding international. International, as we called out in our remarks, had a strong year. International, in many ways, mirrored the results we saw in North America in terms of challenging business in the first quarter and first half of the year with store closures. But our international partners, franchise partners did a very, very good job of building substantially their digital capabilities and capacity through 2020, which led to closing the year in a very strong way for both Q4 and the year, growing sales and operating income nicely.
And as you saw in our materials, we're also planning, our partners are very bullish on the business, so we are planning further growth in 2021 of 50 to 75 stores in primarily existing markets that our franchise partners already operate strongly in. And so they are bullish. We are bullish on the continued opportunity for growth there. To your specific question around are we contemplating or would we contemplate moving from the franchise model to an own-store model, I think the short answer on that is right now, no. We are very comfortable and pleased with the model that we have in place, the results that we're getting, the relationships we have with our partners. I'll never say never, but again, not part of our growth strategy here in the next several years. And to the second part of your question, again, we called out specifically in our prepared remarks that with the tremendous growth of digital and with the continued change in our portfolio to focus on off-mall stores, we're down to only about 35% of our revenue coming from mall stores. So obviously, the other almost 2/3 coming from digital and off-mall. Your question around what are the type of operating performance we see out of those off-mall stores, again, as Bath & Body Works has become much more of a destination in and of itself, what we see in our off-mall locations, not surprisingly, is significantly higher conversion rates than we see in mall stores. If someone is coming into an off-mall location, they almost certainly have already decided before they made the trip that they intend to make a purchase. And so that operating profile is certainly stronger in our off-mall locations. And probably not surprisingly, our operating costs, in general, are lower in our off-mall locations. And so their profit rates tend to be on par or better than an average mall store. And then importantly, again, I think, partly driven by the pandemic but also probably driven by just a longer-term shift in customer behavior, we saw a pretty substantial outperformance of our off-mall locations this year versus our mall-based locations. So about a comp about twice as high in off-malls versus malls for the full year. And so that, again, are important elements and why we continue to move in the direction strategy-wise that we've articulated in terms of shifting more and more to off-mall locations. Hopefully, that helps.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Our next question is coming from Matthew Boss, JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Congrats on another great print. So 2-part question. You cited you were pleased with February top line. Could you just elaborate on trends that you've seen post holiday, maybe by concept?
And then Stuart, net debt, I believe, is at a 10-year low. How would you prioritize capital allocation opportunities following the VS transaction?
Amie Preston:
Okay. Thanks, Matt. So Andrew, do you want to start with February?
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. So as we mentioned in the remarks, February is coming out. We still have a few days left in the fiscal month, but it's certainly trending to be a very solid month for Bath & Body Works. Frankly, performance that is in line to slightly better than what we achieved in fourth quarter and, therefore, at the higher end of what we were expecting as we came into the quarter. But as we mentioned, we've already reflected that performance of February in our current guidance.
In terms of a little bit more color around February and even late January as we moved out of semi-annual sale, which takes up our first couple of weeks of January. So looking at essentially the last 6 weeks, we've been very pleased with the performance of our new spring product, both in the theme floorset that was focused on Valentine's Day, which was the last couple of weeks of January and the first couple of weeks of February as well as we've moved past Valentine's day now are tropical based floorset and theme in stores and online has also been performing well. So again, good early reads on our spring merchandise and strategies overall.
Amie Preston:
Great, thanks. And then Stuart, over to you.
Andrew Meslow:
You want Martin on Feb?
Amie Preston:
Or Martin?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Martin, do you want to provide a comment on Feb?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Sure. Happy to. Very similar to what Andrew said. We're pleased with February, very solid results with the 90% of the month that's in at or above what we saw in Q4 overall. And that's driven by significantly higher AUR, significantly higher merchandise margin rates, less promotionality and a really good response to our V day collection. We had a very good V day period. And overall, the response to spring merchandise have been very positive. So we're upbeat and we're bullish.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. And Stuart, question on debt?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Matt, as you point out, we've generated a lot of cash, and we're holding a lot of cash in the business, and it was an intensive effort, including support from lots of people, including our partners and then a strong operating result. But we are -- we ended the year with $3.9 billion of cash. And so as we think about where we are and as we think about the next roundly 6 months, 5 or 6 months with respect to the separation, we are evaluating the subject that you asked about, which is what are you going to do with all this money and how do you think about it?
We haven't made any decisions. We are getting outside advice. We've retained Goldman and JPMorgan to help us with the separation, and they're giving us their perspectives on the subject you asked about as well. So we're evaluating options. The Board, obviously, will review thinking and will approve anything that we do. But in answer to your question, what are we thinking most about? We're thinking about reducing debt. We're thinking about buying stock. We do believe in the opportunity to drive appreciation in the stock, including through a re-rating of Bath & Body Works. And we're also thinking about resuming a dividend. But these are all things that we're just thinking about. No decisions have been made. Obviously, when we make decisions, we'll communicate those. And we're thinking about the timing of that evaluation and the timing of those decisions in terms of before or after or multi-step or single step with respect to the separation. So it's a big subject. The good news is we're in a good place. So we've accumulated a lot of cash. The maturity profile, as you know, is very healthy. We took a number of actions this year to improve that maturity profile, so we start the subject in a very sound position. But again, we believe it appropriate to reduce debt. There is absolutely an opportunity, we think, with respect to the repurchase of shares. And the company paid a dividend for a long period of time, and that is an important form of return for shareholders in a company like this. So we're evaluating all of it but have not made any decisions.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Susan Anderson of B Riley.
Susan Anderson:
Let me offer my congrats on a nice end to the year. I guess I wanted to follow-up on the PINK business. I think in the prepared commentary, you talked about 80% comp growth in the logo shop. I'm curious what percent of apparel is logo now and then also how the other apparel performed?
Amie Preston:
Martin or Stuart?
Martin Waters:
I'm happy to jump in there. Thanks for the question, Susan. So yes, we're pretty pleased with the performance of the PINK business. I think the way to think about PINK is that approaching half of the business is in the intimates category. And about the other half of the business, broadly, round numbers is in the Apparel segment, and about half of that half in Apparel is Logo. And that's where we saw significant growth. So hopefully, that helps you dimension the business overall.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Susan.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Kimberly Greenberger, Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Great. I wanted to ask 2 quick follow-up questions. One, on the sale versus the spin debate. Is there a price for the Victoria's Secret business that makes a sale, even with the tax consequences, more attractive than a spin?
And then just a follow-up on the debt question. Do you have a sort of targeted leverage ratio for BBW and/or Victoria's Secret that you'd like to get to? And any thoughts on when we might see some action on debt paydown?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. That is Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Kimberly, in terms of like what's the threshold price that might tilt the scale sale versus spin, as you appreciate, there's a lot of judgment in that question. And that's a judgment that the Board will make. So it wouldn't be appropriate to kind of speculate on what the numerical threshold would be. We could all throw numbers against the wall. And those numbers -- what I will say is those numbers are substantially greater than they were a year ago. So I think we all appreciate that based on the performance of the business.
But the judgment involved in that is important and is not based on a single factor. But obviously, valuation and cash generation are important considerations as we evaluate the plus minus. But again, I think as you appreciate the -- we could all do math and speculate, but it's more involved in that. And the good news is, as we think about what the valuation of the business may be in the public markets, again, we can all do that math, and it certainly implies a bigger numbers with respect to what would be required to tilt the scale, if you will. So it's a good question, an important question but not one that we'll throw a number out on a call this morning. And again, the Board will make that determination. With respect to leverage, what we would say is we're doing the capital structure work. We do believe that a leverage in the 2.5% to 3% range on a lease-adjusted basis feels like a good target, but we're continuing to refine our views on that. And then with respect to when might we see some action, as I mentioned in the comments with respect to Matt's question, we're looking at the subjects. Important judgment to make about timing of actions and a 2-step thing or a 1-step thing and in terms of decisions and actions, and we're evaluating those things. And the Board, again, will make those determinations. But nothing to announce today.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Omar Saad of Evercore.
Omar Saad:
A couple of quick follow-ups on Victoria's Secret, but great margin performance there. Was there a big lift from the shift of the U.K. stores into the JV and the other key drivers behind that margin transformation. I'm sure promotions -- reduced promotions is part of it?
And maybe also with e-com. Are you seeing an inflection in e-com profitability in Victoria's Secret? And then Martin, maybe you could touch on you've been at the company a long time. You know the brand really well. Maybe you could touch on where you see the Victoria's Secret brands position today and your kind of ideas for the longer-term brand strategy.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar. Stuart, do you want to take that first part?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So with respect to the back half, Omar and, more particularly, even the fourth quarter, the results related to the U.K. was not a major driver of the profit improvement for the quarter year-on-year. We are very pleased with what we're doing there go forward and how it will improve the operating results of the business for us or the recorded result of the business for us, and we think Next is a great partner. But in terms of did it make a big impact financially year-on-year in the fourth quarter, the answer to that is no. But again, we feel good about what we did.
With respect to the digital business and did it improve its profit rate meaningfully year-on-year, the answer to that is it did. And that was driven by the improvement in merchandise margin rates that we saw across the business. And so that effect was significant in the online business, and it's a very profitable business and a good business. And in addition to growing top line, the profit rate in the business improved meaningfully, again, driven by the improvement in the merchandise margin rate.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. And Martin, do you want to talk about how you're thinking about brand positioning?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Be delighted to. Thanks so much for the questian, Omar. So in taking on this role, I think about having 4 key priorities. So firstly, it's about establishing a happy and healthy culture within the business. Secondly, it's about really improving our product offer, focusing on the architecture of our good, better, best pricing and being really sharp on opening price points. Thirdly, it's about leaning into digital so that we adop a digital-first mentality, and we expect it to be probably 50% of our business going forward. And then fourthly and very importantly, it's about pacing into the brand repositioning work. And I couldn't be more delighted to be leading the work to refresh the brand positioning to make it more relevant, to make it more inclusive, to make it more consistent with the attitude and lifestyle of the modern woman.
And so we've listened to her, and we've carefully decided to make some change. And that change is summarized by her asking us to move away from telling her what we think is sexy and what we think she should wear and how we think she should look, to being there to help her craft the story that she wants to tell. So our job is to support her in whatever way that she needs us to. And we know that she's rooting for us. The engagement that we saw in the fourth quarter was up significantly to previous years, both in social channels and obviously, in digital commerce generally. And we're winning her back by celebrating her and inspiring her and supporting her to show up however she wants to show up. So you will see significant change in the way that the brand is presented. And rather than expecting a big reveal or a big relaunch of the brand, this will -- the change in the positioning that I've just described will show up in everything that we do on a day-to-day basis. And that means, whether it be the imagery when you turn on the screen on our website, on your phone, on the e-mail that you get every day, in our social media, in the magalog that arrives with The Swim on Monday, every single interaction that we have with the consumer either polishes or tarnishes the brand. And we are determined that we will have a polish mentality in everything that we do from here onwards. So hopefully, that helps give some color. And I'm happy to talk more about it privately if people want to hear more.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Michael Binetti of Crédit Suisse.
Michael Binetti:
Congrats on a nice holiday. I guess I'd like to ask about the BBW digital customer. How many of the new customers that you referenced earlier in the digital channel are known to you, are in the database from the stores that may move back to the store channel as it reopens versus those that are new to you in the digital channel?
And then if I could just reflect back on some of Stuart's comments on the e-commerce margin. I know you said a lot of it was the merch margin improvement. Maybe any thoughts you could give us on some of the other lines below merch margin in that channel so we can think about how the profitability and leverage lines are looking aside from the merch margin?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. So thanks for the question, Michael. In terms of the growth we saw within Bath & Body Works digital, about half of the customers that were new to the channel were also new to the brand overall, so had not made any Bath & Body Works purchase either online or in stores for the prior 2 years. And about the other half were new to the channel, meaning they were making their first direct purchase but had historically made a purchase in stores. And again, I'm speaking to the full year there.
And then importantly, as I mentioned, specifically on that second group that would now be considered a dual channel customer, the spending associated with those customers relative to the spending of a customer who shops only online or only in stores is, order of magnitude, 3x greater. So we're very excited about that growth in dual-channel customers, and we'll work very hard to both retain those customers and to continue to drive their behavior go forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. And Stuart, any more color on direct operating margins?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Honestly, not really. And it's not because I don't want to provide it or I don't have it in front of me, because I do. But the big driver is what we commented on, which is the merchandise margin rate improved meaningfully, materially, year-on-year to what we would describe as a healthy rate. And the profit rate or the EBIT rate within the e-comm channel, the digital channel for DSA Newco is very healthy and wouldn't offer a comment beyond that.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Michael. [Operator Instructions]
Operator:
The next question is coming from Kate Fitzsimons, RBC Capital Markets.
Kate Fitzsimons:
Congrats on the results. I guess my question is on Victoria's Secret lingerie, AURs in the 30s, PINK comping in the 80s but, overall, branded comps down 3%, as you guys are tightly controlling the unit. Obviously, I know your focus is on profitability recovery, but we will be lapping some pretty significant inventory declines in that brand. So just curious how you're approaching balancing the return to growth with profitability as we approach rebuilding on the inventory.
Amie Preston:
Martin, do you want to take that one?
Martin Waters:
Sure. Happy to. Thanks for the question, Kate. So I think you characterized it rightly that we've had significant AUR increases. You probably noticed, we've had significantly less promotionality. And the reason for that is we've got better merchandise. So if you've got better stuff and you've got inventories managed more tightly, then good things happen to the margin. And we saw that particularly in January where we didn't need to lap the extensive SAS from prior year, and we didn't need to lap the same number of panty parties, et cetera, et cetera. So we're seeing just a much healthier business right now that's less dependent on promotions and more dependent on talking about new and back and free rather than off. We're also seeing very good momentum in PINK as well as lingerie and in beauty.
So all in all, we feel like we're on a good track. And I think the word you used is balance, and that's how I think about it. That we -- while we want to ensure that the quality of earnings is good and that the profitability of the sales is positive, at the same time, we want to drive volume. So we want to be the market leader. We want to have deep shares in all of the core categories in which we operate. So we're trying to keep a very careful balance on the tool to ensure that we're getting the right level of promotional support to drive volume and, at the same time, hang on to the terrific gains that we've made already. And the way I would say it is that for the first half of the year, we expect that trend to continue. Because we're up against a difficult period from 2020 last year. And as we move towards the back half of the year, well, that will ameliorate a little bit because we were already starting to see significant improvement in performance. So hopefully, that gives you a bit more color, Kate.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Paul Lejuez of Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
I think you mentioned 35% of BBW sales are Mall. Curious if you could give that number for VS? And also curious on BBW side, what is the absolute level of sales productivity look like in mall stores versus off-mall stores after that big outperformance that you mentioned in off-mall stores this year?
Amie Preston:
Okay. Let's start with Andrew and then go to Stuart.
Andrew Meslow:
Paul, thanks for the question. So your question for Bath & Body Works around sales productivity in off-mall locations versus mall locations with the outperformance. So if we were talking at this time last year, the reality is on a selling sales per foot basis, mall stores have historically outperformed off-mall stores by a relatively meaningful margin. But with the performance that we saw in 2020 that I described where the comp was essentially double in the off-mall locations versus mall, those numbers are now closer. But mall stores on an absolute dollars per foot basis do still outperform our off-mall locations. But as mentioned, our operating costs in off-mall locations are lower than our operating costs in mall locations. Hopefully, that helps.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Paul, as we mentioned, we're in the 40% range, digital versus store going to 50% or 50-plus. And then within store, it's about 80%-20% mall, non-mall, 80%-20%. And the 20% is comprised largely of street locations, not exclusively, but largely street locations.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Thanks, Paul.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Janine Stichter of Jefferies.
Janine Stichter:
Just a quick one on Bath & Body Works. I wanted to ask about the direct channel, if you had a sense of how much some of the fulfillment and shipping backlogs you saw constrained sales? And then any sense of a time line or a time frame for improvement there?
Andrew Meslow:
Janine, thanks for the question. So Bath & Body Works had an incredible year. Obviously, sales up over 100%. Fourth quarter sales growth was lower at about 75%. Certainly, part of the reason that, that sales growth moderated was what you're poking on in terms of some of the constraints we saw specifically with shippers, UPS, Fedex, et cetera, and their ability to handle the total industry level growth. But it's also important to remember that fourth quarter and specifically, the holiday time frame within fourth quarter is such a steep slope for the Bath & Body Works online business that putting up even that 75% growth in Q4 was a remarkable achievement and significantly above our expectations.
So to the second part of your question around how are we thinking about the growth go forward, we're continuing to make big investments into our overall fulfillment capacity. We saw remarkable progress there. 2020 versus 2019 fulfillment capacity, up over 50%. But we recognize that's an area that we need to continue to make investments in go forward. And so short answer, I do not see shipping or fulfillment constraints as an impediment to the business growth as we move into 2021 and beyond.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Gaby Carbone.
Gabriella Carbone:
Congratulations on a great quarter. I was wondering if you can give a bit -- a little bit more detail around how you see e-commerce trends playing out at Bath & Body Works versus stores channel kind of when excluding the closed stores from last year?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Gaby. Yes. So again, what we saw was remarkable growth online, what we would probably have viewed as several years' worth of growth all in 1 year in that channel. And so certainly, I think it's only natural as we approach 2021 to be more conservative in terms of what we assume will be growth in that channel, specifically for this year. And we won't know the answer to some of those questions until we start to lap the time frame from a year ago in a couple of weeks when stores were closed and direct was our only channel operating. So we'll certainly be smarter over the next 90 to 180 days, but a lot to still learn.
As we think about the business long term, though. So again, prior to 2020, the direct penetration to the total business was in the high teens percent, and we got all the way to 31% of the business in 2020. And we view that over time, that number should grow to the mid- to high 30s, perhaps as high as 40% over the next several years. But importantly, our goal is to continue to have strong growth in the direct channel but also to maintain a strong, vibrant, growing store environment. That is still the ultimate expression of the Bath & Body Works brand in terms of being able to really stand for our tremendous fragrance experience and the interaction that we have between our associates and our customers, which we believe is such a strong part of the brand.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Nice to see the progress. As you think about the 30 to 50 store closures that you talked about for Victoria's secret for 2021, is that the normalized rate that you expect of store closures going forward post the 241 this year? And then just following up on Victoria's Secret, how do you see the AUR journey progressing by category? How should it differ?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana. Martin, do you want to take that one?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Sure. Thanks, Dana, for the question. So as you know, we closed 250 stores. Took that opportunity during the pandemic. We think that it's reasonable to expect, for the next year, 30 to 50 stores, and we'll continue to review the fleet on a month-to-month basis. Reminder, about 96% of our fleet is cash flow positive. So we don't feel like there's a burning platform to close hundreds of stores. And implied in your question is that we might be 30 to 50 stores a year forever and ever, amen, and I don't think that's so. So I would take it 1 year at a time. Expect 30 to 50, and we'll continue to update guidance as we go.
As it relates to AUR growth, we have seen pretty consistent AUR growth across the categories. We saw particularly good growth in the sleep and lounge categories, good categories during COVID time, stay-at-home time, but also in our core lingerie. So I don't think there's a big difference there. Similarly, in PINK, good AUR growth. I think Beauty is probably the 1 category where there has been less to go out on the AUR growth. But overall, we should expect a continuation of the trend that you've seen in Q4, at least through the spring season.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. 2 more questions.
Operator:
The next question is coming from Oliver Chen of Cowen.
Oliver Chen:
Martin, regarding Victoria's Secret, as you think about marketing and this changing nature around beauty, what demographics do you see as the most opportunities there in new versus existing customers?
And then your comments on good, better, best. Are they where you want them to be? It sounds like that's the important part of the strategy.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Happy to take that, Oliver. So I think the part of our brand that has the most clearly defined demographic targeting is PINK, where clearly, we're going after the Gen Z consumer, very important part of that brand. And we know that our messaging around diversity, equity inclusion, sustainability is really resonating with that consumer. So that's the most targeted.
I think as it relates to Victoria's, we have a pretty broad church, don't we? And actually, we want that church to be even broader than it has been. If anything, we've been too specific in our target. And we think that as part of the brand narrative that I described earlier that we should be appealing to more women, more of the time for more stages of their life. And that means that we'll be there for her in significantly more ways than we have been historically, whether that be through swim or whether it be through vacation or whatever it may be, different life stages. So I would expect us to be less focused on a specific demographic target and more focused on being broadly inclusive of all women of all shapes and sizes and colors and ethnicities and genders and areas of interest. As it relates to good, better, best, I think we are critical of ourselves of saying that we haven't always had that balance right. And that has led to some opportunity for competitors to attack us in our core space. And the fundamentals of merchandising take us back to those core principles. Make sure you have really good opening price points in all of the key threshold categories. Make sure that you're able to represent the brand in each of the good, better, best areas. And so I think the way we showed up in fall was a significant improvement on where we've been year-over-year or credit to the team. And as we brought new players into our team with different merchandising experience, they have observations about areas where we can see even further improvement during the fall and into next year's season. So hopefully, that gives you a bit more color of how we're thinking about it.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. One last question.
Operator:
And our last question is coming from Janet Kloppenburg, JJK Research Associates.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Congratulations on the year. Congratulations to Stuart. Congratulations to Martin. All good things. For Andrew, I was wondering if -- as we think about quarterly sales for BBW this year and the very challenging comparisons you're up against, should we think that there'll be pressure in 2, 3 and 4? Or could there be some opportunity during some of those periods? How would you want us to think about that?
And for Stuart or for Martin, I was wondering about the 10% to 15% operating margin goal for Victoria's Secret as compared to historical peaks. And if you're thinking that there is some competition complexion that's more difficult or lower store productivity that may be limiting the upside opportunity, albeit still a great margin, but I'm just wondering about returning to historical levels.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Janet, so as your question implied, we're obviously up against some incredible record performances as we move into Q2 and even more so in Q3. But as we said, we're really only providing guidance at this point for Q1, where we do see opportunity for meaningful sales growth over last year where our stores were closed for about half the quarter.
And then as I mentioned earlier, we're really need -- going to need to get a handle on what level of stores performance do we see as we lap that closure period and really looking at 2-year results, meaning, 2021, back towards 2019 results and then similarly understanding how does direct perform up against those incredible results. So too early to speculate at this point what that will mean for Q2 and beyond.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And Martin, do you want to take the question about VS operating margin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Sure, happy to. We don't see that there's a cap on the -- on our earnings at all. Far from it. However, we do see that we want to leave room in our performance for reinvestment in the business, and we have a couple of specific areas. We want to make sure that in our digital business that we're the best that we can be both in fulfillment and in terms of user experience. And we spent quite a lot of time over the last several years replatforming that business to get the fundamentals right. And now we're in a position to offer a much better experience. Similarly in those stores that we have out there, some of them will need some love over time. And so we want to put ourselves in a position where we can deliver the best possible brand experience and the quality of earnings at the same time. And that's what's really behind the thinking of a 10% to 15% rate.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. That concludes our call today. Thanks for your continuing interest in our brands.
Operator:
This will conclude today's conference. All parties may disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Brad, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Third Quarter 2020 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Senior Vice President, Investor Relations and Company Affairs at L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, and welcome to L Brands' third quarter earnings conference call for the period ending October 31, 2020. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases.
Joining me on the call today are Andrew Meslow, CEO of L Brands; and Stuart Burgdoerfer, Interim CEO of Victoria's Secret and CFO of L Brands. All results we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the special items described in our press release. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. The third quarter of 2020 continued to be an unprecedented time for the world, the retail industry and certainly our business. Our first priority continues to be the safety of our associates and our customers.
Our new operating models in our stores are focused on providing a safe environment while also providing an engaging shopping experience. Additionally, we remain focused on the safe operations of our distribution centers, fulfillment centers and call centers while maximizing our direct businesses. We delivered record results in the third quarter, and we could not have done so without the hard work and dedication of all associates across our business, in our stores, distribution and fulfillment centers, call centers and our home offices. I'd like to express our deep appreciation for their dedication and their efforts. In the third quarter, we significantly exceeded our internal expectations, driven by record results at Bath & Body Works as well as an improved performance at Victoria's Secret. As we look to the remainder of the year, we have a cautious view of the fourth quarter, given the high level of uncertainty around the pandemic itself and the potential for further restrictions. While we are optimistic about our Christmas product assortment and our continued strong execution in both stores and online, we do expect significant challenges in generating store channel sales growth. Our typical holiday volumes are about 3x larger per week than the average week in the third quarter historically. And the current capacity limitations that range from 25% to 50% of normal capacity will not allow us to see the same number of customers on peak days that we have in prior years. The situation remains fluid, as additional capacity limits have been recently announced and further restrictions may occur. Additionally, the hours which stores are permitted to be open are fewer than last year, and we will be closed on Thanksgiving Day this year versus open in prior years. We also have additional constraints in our direct channel fulfillment and shipping capacities. As a result, we will be taking action to spread our big promotions, which historically have occurred on single days over a longer time period. We have also added additional registers to stores in both businesses. We expect continued increased cost pressures in the fourth quarter as a result of higher store selling costs, safety, equipment and supply costs, increased fulfillment expense and higher parcel carrier surcharges in the direct channel. We believe that all of the factors mentioned above have the potential to lead to a very wide range of financial outcomes for the fourth quarter, the higher end of which would approximate last year's operating income results. We will continue to stay close to our customers and leverage the speed and agility that we have in the business to optimize our fourth quarter results. Thank you, and back over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions]
Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question of the day will come from Matthew Boss of JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Great, and congrats on the continued momentum. Maybe Andrew, to start, can you elaborate on the balance that you cited that you're seeing between the category drivers at Bath & Body Works today? How would you rank multiyear market share opportunities across the box? And while I understand the cautious view for the fourth quarter given the factors that you mentioned, have you seen any material slowdown in trend to date?
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. Thank you, Matthew. So on your first question, as we mentioned in our prepared remarks from last evening, we did see continued strong balance of performance across all our categories. And so I think there has been understandably a lot of attention paid to the tremendous growth that we're seeing in our soap and sanitizer business, and we certainly count ourselves fortunate to be a major player in that category and have been for many years.
As a reminder, historically, that category, the soap and sanitizer business, has been about 14% of the total business in 2019, as an example. And as we've talked about on this call throughout the course of the year, that penetration has grown significantly. In Q1, it was about 1/4 of the business. Q2, a little over 1/4 of the business. And in Q3, it was still at about 21% of the business, up from mid-teens last year. So significant growth, still doubling in terms of absolute volume in that business. But as we called out in the remarks, we're also seeing very strong performance from all of our other categories. So again, our 2 other big categories of home fragrance and body care, each of them grew by more than 30% in the third quarter as well. So strong and balanced business across the board, and that's true in our stores channel and in our direct channels. On your second part of your question around the multiyear opportunity. Again, I think it's important to understand that even before the pandemic, Bath & Body Works has, for years, been experiencing nice consistent growth really across all of our categories. And our market share opportunity is still large. While we have big market share in all of our categories, each of those categories themselves, meaning the soap and sanitizer category, the home fragrance category and the body care category, are experiencing growth at the industry level. And we continue to see the opportunity for us to gain share in each of those. In terms of your last question around trend, I would say that consistent with what we talked about on the last earnings call, certainly, as stores have been open longer, we have seen some normalization of the sales trend in our stores channel. And that continued, certainly from the end of the second quarter through the third quarter. But still, even at the end of the quarter, we're performing quite nicely at double digit comps. Our direct channel, as you can see from our results, has continued to deliver very consistent results regardless of when -- whether or not stores were closed back in the early part of Q2 or here through the end of Q2 and early part of Q3 as all stores have reopened. Hopefully, that helps with your question.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
The next question comes from Ike Boruchow of Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Let me add my congrats. Just really a phenomenal quarter. So I guess my question is actually now around on Victoria's Secret. I guess maybe, Andrew, has the thinking changed on how to handle your ownership of the brand? And I guess, it's really 2 questions.
It's first, is it fair to say that the asking price for the brand has moved up given the material EBITDA improvements that you've been making over the past 6 months and the inflection that the team is now driving? And then two, is there actually a chance that given the success the new team is having in managing the brand and making these key strategic changes that maybe ultimately you decide that you don't want to sell the business, and you actually feel like you're creating a lot of value with the improvements you're making?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. We're going to go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks for the kind words about the quarter. We've been working hard, as you recognize, to stabilize and begin the turnaround at Victoria's Secret. We had a very strong quarter in a lot of ways, including financially. I can -- in response to your question about do we think we've increased the value of the business? Absolutely, we do.
As businesses are valued off of historic and forward-looking EBITDA and cash flow, we made material progress on those measures in the third quarter, and we would expect that the business is worth meaningfully more than it might have been in the recent past. We're at the beginning. We've got a lot more to do. There's a lot of additional growth and opportunity in the business. But there's no doubt that the third quarter was an important inflection point in the business. With respect to the second part of your question, the Board has been clear about the strategic intent for Bath & Body Works and Victoria's Secret, and that is to ensure that both businesses are valued appropriately, including the appropriate valuation of Bath & Body Works, which we believe will be enhanced through a separation of the businesses. We continue to be on a path after we get a good visibility to the full Q4 results to work with our advisers that we hired back in August, JPMorgan and Goldman Sachs, to work with those advisers and to begin a process in earnest to pursue the options for the separation of the 2 companies.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart, and thanks, Ike.
Operator:
The next question will come from Alexandra Walvis of Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
I had a question on the negotiations with landlords. You mentioned that you achieved a combination of rent waivers or abatements relating to closure periods, some rent release and rent deferrals. I wonder if you could share a little bit more color on the size and scope of those waivers, abatements relief and so forth that you've achieved. And then second question is on -- also on real estate. You had fewer projects for Bath & Body Works in 2020. I'm just wondering how you're thinking about the number of projects going forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Alex. So we'll start with Stuart, and then go to Andrew.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Alex, with respect to the negotiations with developers and landlords and property owners, as we indicated in our remarks, we made substantial progress on those discussions in the third quarter. They are very important discussions. Fundamental discussions. And as would be the case in any important negotiation, there was a lot of compromise and probably on both sides of it, both parties if you will, are probably a little unhappy about the results, if you will.
With that said, the outcomes of those negotiations did not have an overly material effect on the third quarter, and their effect on the fourth quarter is still subject to a full papering and finalization of those negotiations. We will provide more update after we conclude the fourth quarter about the specifics and the impact on Q4. Again, if the Q4 impact will be more significant than the Q3 impact. And again, the element of that in Q3, we would comment as not being overly material to the total result. So more to come, good progress. And full accounting of it, if you will, we'll be in a better do that after the fourth quarter, after all the deals get fully signed off and fully executed from a legal standpoint. But very good progress.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Alex, thanks for the question. So to your point, in 2020, Bath & Body Works is working on approximately 56 real estate projects. That is down materially from our historical run rate over the last few years of closer to 200 projects annually.
As a reminder, we made the decision to reduce that number back early in the first half of the year based on the onset of the pandemic and out of an abundance of caution to make sure we were managing cash flow and capital spending overall. The decision to reduce the number of deals this year was not driven by any change in the performance that we've seen associated with those remodels over the last several years, which we continue to be very pleased with that progress. So all of that said, as we look forward to 2021, it is still critically important for us to read the results here of the all-important fourth quarter to help influence any go-forward capital investment strategy around real estate. And we have a very flexible and agile pipeline as it applies to our real estate portfolio. All of that being said, we'll provide more directional guidance on our next earnings call, but I would expect that the 2021 count would be up from the number of projects that we've executed against here in 2020.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Alex.
Operator:
The next question will come from Lorraine Hutchinson of Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
So I think you were very clear on your store capacity constraints for holiday. I wanted to ask about e-commerce. When we think about fourth quarter e-commerce, have you been able to secure additional fulfillment capacity there? And are there any constraints on growth in that channel in the fourth quarter?
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Lorraine. We'll start with Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Lorraine, thank you for the question. So we have been able to secure significantly more capacity for -- I'm speaking now for Bath & Body Works, and I'll let Stuart speak to Victoria's Secret.
But in the case of Bath & Body Works, we have dramatically increased our capacity as we've moved through the year 2020 to the point where in third quarter, we were able to be looking at about 2.5x the amount of capacity that we had last year. And that's obviously what allowed us to run the growth that we ran of well over 100% in the direct channel in Q3. As you can imagine, as we move into the fourth quarter, what we're up against from a historical sales and capacity is significantly higher than what we saw through the first 3 quarters of the year. So while we will have significantly more capacity available year-over-year in Q3, it almost certainly won't be at the same level of growth as what we were able to achieve in the first 3 quarters of the year. Hopefully, that's helpful.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Lorraine, with respect to Victoria's Secret and capacity, we do have some additional capacity versus what we had a year ago, but there is some impact related to the pandemic and the operation of our fulfillment centers that nets off some of the increase that is associated with the second facility that we opened this year. So there is some net increase in unit capacity, but not as great as we would have expected given the need for social distancing within our centers to ensure that we have a safe environment for our associates.
Additionally, that's a comment about units. We've experienced significant average unit retail growth, both online and in stores at Victoria's Secret. And so that does provide further upside, units. So we feel like we can generate meaningful growth in the fourth quarter given the larger denominator and absolute value it will moderate to some extent. And we'll manage the balance, ensuring that we keep all involved safe, provide the right experience for consumers. And again, importantly, a big source of growth through pricing increases, average unit retail increases that we realized in Q3 and we would expect to continue in Q4.
Amie Preston:
Thank, Stuart, and thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
The next question will come from Susan Anderson of B. Riley.
Susan Anderson:
Nice to see the improvement in VS in the quarter. I'm curious, can you talk about the performance of PINK? I think you noted that there was double-digit comp in the logo shop. I'm curious what changed this quarter versus the previous quarters where I think it had struggled and where you're seeing that strength come from?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Susan, it's Stuart. So first, I would want -- as it relates to PINK, I would want to comment on the strength in the bra and panty businesses in the quarter. In addition, as you mentioned, the logo shop collections have done well. And I think it's a combination of merchandising execution, meaning a specific improvement in the assortments, along with work that Amy Hauk has done in evolving the positioning of the PINK brand.
And as it relates to the PINK Logo shop, obviously, a strong endorsement of that work on the brand in combination with advancement in the assortment and strong selling both in stores and online. So I think it is a combination of factors and certainly a positive signal for the business. But again, I'd also want to highlight strong performances in the bra and panty categories at PINK as well.
Amie Preston:
Thank, Stuart, and thank, Susan.
Operator:
The next question will come from Roxanne Meyer of MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Great, and congratulations on the exceptional third quarter. You've laid out what clearly are capacity constraints in stores in terms of managing the traffic flow as well as online. Is there a way to frame -- I know you gave kind of how you think about peak performance in the fourth quarter being equal to operating income maybe last year. But is there a range of top line that we can expect mathematically in terms of how high is high based on the constraints that you have?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So we want to be really thoughtful, Roxanne, on this subject. We know that you're trying to build models and come up with your own views. But as we expressed in our written remarks and Andrew's comments to introduce the call this morning, there is a lot of uncertainty. And what we're comfortable sharing is that the higher end of our forecast ranges that we think we can approximate the last year's operating income.
As you appreciate, there's a lot of variables, in revenue, in margin, in the expense structure. And we really don't want to deal with certain aspects of the P&L given the uncertainties that we've talked about. So there are constraints. We've outlined them. And we will also, by the way, work like heck to maximize the business, obviously, in the quarter. But we're really going to reinforce that the view is at the higher end of our internal ranges. We would be about at last year's operating income level. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
The next question will come from Simeon Siegel of BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
And really great results across the board, congrats. Andrew, can you speak to your merch margin expectation at BBW in 4Q? I understand the spreading out, the promotional cadence, but just any help thinking through why promotions would be up when demand is clearly so strong. And I think we're talking about supply constraints. And I guess conservatism, obviously, can be an answer. And then, sorry, Stuart, I don't know if I missed it. Did you say how you're approaching go-forward inventory receipts for both brands?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon. Andrew, you have the start.
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. So thanks for the question, Simeon. I think it's important to understand how we got to the margin improvements that we saw in Q3 and then talk about how we might see that play out slightly differently in Q4.
So in the third quarter, we were able to increase margins across the board by combination of both fewer days of promotion, deep promotional activity year-over-year, down relatively substantially, order of magnitude about half as many big deep promotional days in the third quarter versus the third quarter prior year. But then we were also able to increase the price point on many of those promotions. And so the combination of those 2 things as well as not having to have an end of third quarter fall sale the way we have historically, because we saw such good response to our collections and sold down to the point where we were actually putting some of our holiday product on the floor late in the third quarter, those were the drivers of the improvement in Q3. As talked about in our prepared remarks, we also did testing in the third quarter to understand how to lap some of the very large days that we've got in the fourth quarter from a promotional standpoint and attempt to regain the sales and margin dollars associated with those big days. And in doing those tests, affirmed that the best way to do it is to try to take the pressure off of those peak days, spread them out across multiple days, but also have them at higher price points than we have historically. So really the issue of why we would expect fourth quarter margin rates to -- margin rate improvement to moderate and probably more closely approximate last year is that combination of more days. We're going -- in the third quarter, there were fewer days of big promotion, in the fourth quarter there will end up having to be more days of big promotion in order to spread out that volume. As Stuart mentioned earlier, obviously, we're going to continue to be very nimble. We're going to continue to drive to the best possible outcome. If we're seeing better product acceptance and are able to either reduce the number of promotional days and/or raise those promotional prices the way we were in third quarter, we'll obviously do that. But as we go in and look at the magnitude of those big days, that's our going-in assumption.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Stuart, on inventory.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Simeon, as an overall comment -- and Andrew may have something to add for Bath & Body. But as an overall comment in terms of how we're approaching inventory receipts, the first thing I would say, which may be a blinding statement of the obvious is that we're approaching them with a heck of a lot of intensity.
The additional points I'd want to make is really beginning with the onset of the pandemic, particularly for Victoria's Secret, given the store closure plans, but just otherwise trend in the business, we began planning this spring very conservatively with respect to inventory receipts. And the fortunate outcome of that is that through that better inventory position, where we don't have to have broad-based -- as many broad-based promotions, along with better assortments, better selling effectiveness online and in stores, it's really giving rise to the significant margin rates improvements that we experienced in the third quarter and that we would expect in the fourth quarter. With that said, where we've got sales trend, you can be sure that we're chasing like heck. And the good news is that we have supply chain partners, manufacturing partners that we have long-standing relationships and a very clear mind about how to move quickly and with agility the best we can. So overall, had a very conservative position with Victoria's. It's paying big dividends to the company. In combination with, again, better merchandise, better assortments, better presentation, better marketing, better selling. And where we got trend, we're chasing like heck. And Andrew, you may want to comment on the BBW side of it.
Andrew Meslow:
Sure. Thanks, Stuart. I would echo a lot of Stuart's commentary around appreciation for the supply chain and the tremendous flexibility and agility that all of our internal and external partners have been able to accommodate us with -- so far this year. We talked about, on the last quarter call, that originally at the onset of the pandemic, Bath & Body Works also cut back receipts pretty dramatically but then ended up needing to chase back into many of those receipts through Q2, and that trend continued in Q3 of chasing to the upside.
As we enter our fourth quarter, as we've shared in our prepared remarks, we feel good about our overall inventory position. We feel very fortunate that our supply chain has been able to weather the pandemic and has figured out how to operate both in a very safe way, but also increased capacity and output relative to our sales increase. The reality, as I shared earlier, is we did exceed our expectations from a sales and a sell-through on our seasonal goods in the third quarter. So as I mentioned in the prior answer around margin, we were able to cut back and not do a fall end-of-Q3 sale this year based on that sell-through. That obviously has allowed us to be very, very clean from an inventory standpoint as we come into the fourth quarter. It also allowed us to get an early read on some of our holiday goods at the end of the third quarter. And we're pleased -- as we mentioned in our prepared remarks, we're pleased with the early product acceptance that we're seeing to those holiday assortments, and we believe our overall inventory levels are positioned appropriately as we now head into the fourth quarter.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
The next question will come from Omar Saad of Evercore.
Omar Saad:
Great quarter. Andrew, I wanted to ask follow-ups on BBW. I'm trying to think about the stickiness of some of the categories that obviously have been so strong during COVID. Maybe you could frame the growth, new customers coming into the franchise versus greater spend from existing customers. I'd also like to hear your views on the stickiness of soaps versus home fragrance versus body care.
And lastly, as part of this, does the vaccine news -- the positive vaccine news affect the way you plan for beyond the pandemic next year and beyond?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Omar. So on your first piece, I'll get to maybe the stickiness second. But on the customer piece, as we shared on the last earnings call, coming out of the first 6 months of the year, based on the stores closure for about 90 days in the first half of the year, we had seen fewer customers year-to-date through the first 6 months.
The good news is, in the third quarter, we saw substantially more customers year-over-year in both channels, stores and our online channel. But that does still leave us year-to-date, as we exit the third quarter, down slightly low single-digit customers fewer than last year at this point, again, driven by that approximately 90-day period where the majority of our stores were closed. In terms of the profile around the customers, as you would expect, we've seen tremendous growth out of our direct channel customer file, order of magnitude about double last year. And within that, we've seen very nice growth amongst new customers, new to the brand and new to the channel. And we're seeing nice improvement in the number of customers who shop both in stores and online. Directionally, those -- that number of customers is up over 70% year-over-year. And as a reminder, those are our most productive customers, spend about 3x more than a single channel customer do spend. Within the customer mix, we're also seeing very nice, as you would expect, growth in our soap and sanitizer customer base, and that has allowed for more cross-category shopping of customers as well. And similar to the cross-channel mix benefit, cross-category mix benefit is also significant, meaning that a customer who shops multiple categories is more valuable than a customer who only shops single category. As to your question then around stickiness and around how, if at all, the vaccine would impact our planning for next year, I guess, at a high level, all of us are hoping and praying for a vaccine to come as soon as possible so that, first and foremost, all of our friends, family, associates can live in a safer world go forward. Certainly, we would expect that, that will start to have some impact on customer shopping behavior. But I do believe that some of what we've experienced so far this year is probably here to stay in terms of how customers behave. For example, some of the growth and movement to the direct channel, I think, has been an acceleration of a multiyear trend that we had already been observing, and so I would expect that to continue. When you think about our categories, I think the good news is for Bath & Body Works, the categories that we play in were, again, super strong and relevant before the pandemic. In a couple of cases, I think they've actually been enhanced by the pandemic, specifically soaps and sanitizers; and to a lesser extent but still material, our home fragrance business as well, with people spending a lot more time in their homes. But I would expect that those, again, were strong categories before, will continue to be strong growth categories at the industry level and for our business go forward. And I do think that some personal habits will have changed on a relatively permanent basis in terms of customers' focus on hand washing and overall safe -- safer lifestyle choices when it comes to keeping clean go forward. So long-winded answer to say nothing about what we're seeing would have us have any less confidence in the long-term prospects of the business.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
The next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg of JJK Research Associates.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Congratulations on a great quarter. For Andrew, I was -- I wanted to clarify that your promotional strategy is to match last year's is understood over more days. But it is -- within your EBIT guidance, is it also assumed that your promotional levels will be shallower year-over-year? In other words, the depth of discounting will be lower.
And Stuart, I was wondering on the Victoria's Secrets business, if you now feel confident that you understand the direction that the brand needs to move in to recapture top line and margin and if you're able to go forward with a defined strategy, or if you're still in a bit of a test-and-learn period.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Janet, thank you for the question. So on the promotional strategy, the short answer is it's a mixed approach. So on some days, within the fourth quarter, our promotion level will be the same as last year because those are big shop-wide deals that we'll be doing and expecting to be at a similar depth of promotion just spread out over more days. Specific example there would be our Black Friday promotional strategy, that is a shop-wide deal, would extend over more days than it did last year.
But in other cases where the promotional strategy is around a sharp price point around an individual item, in general, we are planning for those price points to be up versus last year. But again, the impact then being the spread of those prices over more days than what were in the last year time frame. Hoping that helps.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Janet, thank you. What I would say is with respect to the PINK and the Victoria's brands and the categories intimate apparel and sleep and lounge, apparel and beauty. I think through John's leadership, Amy's leadership, Greg's leadership, we have developed pretty clear points of view about the future direction of the brands and the significant categories.
With that said, we'll continue to learn and evolve. And -- but I think the merchant leaders, the merchant CEOs, have developed points of view that are resonating with consumers as evidenced through the results and the ability to improve margin rates meaningfully, while still delivering very healthy volumes. But I wouldn't want to suggest from that comment that we won't continue to listen and learn and evolve because we will. But I think we're off to a good start. We do have points of view. We're executing against those points of view. But it's still early days and there's more to do, and we'll continue to evolve as we move through the next sequence of time.
Operator:
The next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger of Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Great. Excellent execution here. Andrew and Stuart, I understand, obviously, both businesses seem to normalize through the third quarter, and you're not offering 4Q guidance today for very understandable reasons. But one of the things that might be just helpful to help us think about it is if you could share the 2 brands, maybe their exit rate, how were things looking as the business normalized in October?
And then, Andrew, you talked about holiday volumes in-store at 3x the third quarter average, I think. And if you are hindsighting holiday this year, what sort of level of store productivity would you think would be a very solid performance coming through the holiday season? Is it running at 70% or 75% or 80% of last year's levels? I'm just wondering how you might grade it. And then lastly, Stuart, if you could just help us understand the expansion of 870 basis points in gross margin between the components, merchant margin expansion, buying and occupancy leverage. And were there any of the expense savings that contributed?
Amie Preston:
Kimberly, so I'll take that last question. The total company gross margin rate expansion, of the 870 basis points, was roughly equal between merchandise margin rate and buying and occupancy leverage. A little bit more weighted to merchandise margin rate expansion. Then we'll go to Stuart for -- you had another question for Stuart, right?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
She was asking about exit rates, and I think some of the assumptions on BBW store expectation.
Andrew Meslow:
Productivity.
Amie Preston:
Yes. Okay.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on exit rates, sorry, for Victoria's, and I think the same true for BBW, Kimberly, the kind of most recent selling trends, year-on-year change, are on an overall basis consistent with Q3 in total. So that -- I know you're curious about current trend of business and our perspective on what we're comfortable sharing. And again, it happens to be the case for both businesses is that the current run rate of the business, similar to the overall Q3 total.
As Andrew commented on earlier, however, we all know that the fourth week in November in size and significance dwarfs everything else, but the business is running pretty consistent. So that's what we'd offer there.
Andrew Meslow:
On the second part of your question, Kim, that sounded like a pretty coy way to try to have us give something resembling guidance. But I'll attempt to offer a response without going into detail on that.
But at the end of the day, with the capacity constraints that we've articulated, and I know, as you appreciate, the reality is the situation around capacity and regulations outside of our control is a very fluid one with different states and municipalities changing perspectives on that on a frequent basis. But if we just use our overall view, which prior to any of those jurisdictional changes, we had gotten comfortable in both businesses running between 40% and 50% of max capacity to last year. And again, some jurisdictions will require us to operate with less than that. But if you think about that as a cap, if you will, on traffic, on the biggest days of the year, because again it's only on the biggest days of the year where that max capacity does come into play, but with traffic on those biggest days of the year, being down 50-plus percent based on those capacity constraints, even with the big improvements we're seeing in both businesses around conversion and around average dollar sale, you can understand that we will not be able to hit the total volumes that we saw on those biggest days from last year. Thus, the strategy to spread them out. And without going into more detailed guidance, hopefully, that's a helpful model.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Mark Altschwager of Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Great quarter. I wanted to ask just some bigger picture questions on margins. So Andrew, starting on BBW, it looks like operating margins this year are on pace to be kind of mid- to high 20s. How are you thinking about potential normalization in fiscal '21? Or maybe if you don't want to give specific numbers, I guess, just any learnings from 2020 that would impact the prior framework, such as the business could operate at structurally higher margins versus the roughly 23% the business was at over the last several years.
And then for Stuart, a pretty remarkable recovery in the VS margin this quarter. It would seem like the business is now well on the way to breakeven this year. And if we carry forward the Q3 inflection to next year, the brand would seem to be nicely profitable again. But obviously tough to extrapolate 1 quarter. So just understanding that there's a lot of near-term uncertainty, any high-level thoughts you can share on where the brand is from a run rate profitability perspective today.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mark.
Andrew Meslow:
Mark, so to your question around Bath & Body Works and how we're thinking about operating margin rates as we move out of this very unique year and, frankly, probably need to think about as we lap this year next year. So I would say it's likely that both 2020 and 2021 will be somewhat unique in terms of what that operating margin profile looks like, especially in different time periods throughout the year.
But if we're talking about a more long-term basis for the business, we've been very consistent in saying that we believe this is a business that can and should operate in the low 20% range from an operating income ROS. And there's nothing that we're seeing today that would make us have a different perspective on that on a go-forward basis.
Amie Preston:
Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Mark, what I would say about Victoria's Secret is based on the third quarter results, we're ahead, Mark, of where we thought we would be. And I say that not in a hopefully a boastful way at all, but just we're ahead of where we thought we would be. And with that said, we got a lot more to do. So we've made good progress. Strong quarter, happy about that, proud of the effort of so many people to make that happen. But it's 1 quarter, as you point out in your question.
However, strategically, as you know from your following of us and others in the industry, similarly situated businesses with brand power and in strong categories and within our own history can be mid- to high teens operating income rate businesses, they can. If you look at lots of players over long periods of time when performing really well and executing really well, that's where you can be. Now we're a long way from that. We've just finished 1 solid quarter. So we got a lot of work in front of us, but there's a lot of opportunity. And so we're taking it 1 week at a time and 1 month at a time and trying to do the right stuff with respect to the merchandise assortments, the customer experience, the brand positioning, the quality of the team and the culture of the business. And we're off to a good start, but we got a lot in front of us. But I would say the potential is, when executing well, that this should be a 10% to 15% operating income rate business, and that's potential that we should be able to realize in the next several years, next year or 2, if we really execute well. A lot in front of us, but that's the potential. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mark.
Operator:
The next question will come from Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Nice to see the improvement and the continuation of strength of Bath & Body Works. Stuart, on the Victoria's Secret turnaround. Obviously, you mentioned that there's significant guidepost to watch for. As you think about going through 2021, what should we be looking for, whether it's in lingerie, in PINK and the KPIs that we should lean towards?
And as you think, Andrew, about BBW and going through 2021, how are you thinking about the category penetration and its potential movement from what happens in 2020?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So with respect to Victoria's Secret and guideposts in 2021, what I would say, Dana, is a healthy revenue line. And what I mean by that is revenue growth or revenue outcomes that don't come with healthy margins are a sign of a problem, and you know that from all the work that you have done and that you do.
So for us, it is a healthy balance between unit volume; average unit retail pricing; good, better, best, execution; ultimately, again, coming through a healthy top line with very healthy margins; along with continued execution on the profit improvement plan that we started to implement or put into action, I should say, in August. So it's those healthy revenue and margin metrics, it's strong execution from a brand standpoint and a merchandising standpoint, along with good channel mix and healthy margin characteristics. So those would be the guideposts. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Dana, thanks for the question. So again, from a current focus, we are really heads down on trying to deliver the best possible fourth quarter. But certainly, as we are working on the product development pipeline looking out into 2021, at a high level, we would expect that we will see moderation in what have been tremendous growth rates in our soap and sanitizer business, and a more balanced growth that we would look for across the portfolio as we move into 2021.
So we would expect to see, probably on a relative basis, higher growth out of body care and home fragrance relative to the growth we would expect out of soap and sanitizer. But I think it's fair to assume that on a mix basis, again soap and sanitizer, which had been just under 15% of our business historically, we would expect to maintain at least at around the 20% of the business even as we move into next year and beyond, if that's helpful in terms of your modeling.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Dana.
Operator:
The next question comes from Oliver Chen of Cowen.
Oliver Chen:
On the Bath & Body Works division, nice job in all the momentum. The digital connection between the online and mobile experience and in-store, could you highlight what's happening there and opportunities you have and/or progress you made and how that may be important in fourth quarter as customers are looking at all these channels together? And then on the product mix at BBW, does that have material margin implications we should know about over time?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Oliver. So on your first question, again, we've been very pleased with our ability to scale up our direct business through the year from a capacity standpoint. But also from a capability standpoint. And I think maybe what you're probing on is, obviously, more and more customers, how they experience any brand, Bath & Body Works, Victoria's Secret or any other brand tends to now be, first and foremost, through a mobile device.
And so we are very pleased with how well our brand translates on mobile devices in terms of the look and feel, brand projection that we give on those devices. And our ability to service orders through mobile or through any digital platform has, again, continued to be very stable and continue to be something that we're proud of, and we will continue to make investments into those capabilities as we move into future years as well. In terms of the product mix and any material impact that, that has on margin, the short answer there would be not a material one. All of our categories that we operate in are high-margin categories. The soap and sanitizer business, specifically within that, is about at the average of our overall margin profile. So nothing that, that growth or change would have as an impact to our overall rates.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. We're going to try to squeeze 2 more questions.
Operator:
The next question comes from Marni Shapiro of Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Congrats on a great quarter, and the stores look fantastic for the holidays. I have 2 very quick ones. On PINK, I'm curious if you could talk a little bit about the age of the consumer coming in. Are you seeing a younger shopper come in for the bras and panties, like the lightly lined sports bra and things like that? As just these stores have closed, they had a pretty big footprint and owned that sort of first bra and panty experience.
And then if you could just remind us, I know you've rolled out pickup in store. I'm curious if you've had -- if it's meaningful at this point for you guys?
Amie Preston:
So Marni, we'll go to Andrew first for BOPIS.
Andrew Meslow:
Marni, yes, as we talked about on the last quarter call, we were able to launch the buy online pick up a store capability earlier in the year, and we have been using that, I would say, sporadically, throughout Q3 to really help with any times we had capacity constraints or store closures on a rolling basis. We have not rolled it out broadly to stores that are able to be open and operating in a fully open capacity.
Really, the learning around the capability has been interesting. It certainly appears to have some level of -- some small level of incrementality. But really, it's most important for us as, what I'll call, an insurance policy when or if we have stores that are unable to operate, keeping them open and able to operate in that buy online pick up in store manner, especially in our off-mall locations, is a very nice safety net to now have as a capability.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Marni, so as you know, the target customer, if you will for PINK is that college-age young woman. And with that said, the brand appeals to a range of ages. And I would say that Amy is and the team are doing a good job really executing to target the business through the projection of the business, the merchandise itself, to that college-age customer. And again, understanding that there is an age range around that customer. But we feel -- she feels like we're doing a good job of targeting that college age customer. So that's what our comment would be. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni.
Operator:
The last question for today will come from Carla Casella of JPMorgan.
Carla Casella:
I have a cash flow question about the store closures. Have you spent the -- the lease breakage cost that you talked about earlier in the year, has all of that been spent? Or do we have a catch-up for that in the fourth quarter?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Carla, it's Stuart. There's a little bit of catch-up in the fourth quarter and that's where it will be concentrated. But Carla, we feel very good about our cash projections and our liquidity. But there is some catch-up in the fourth quarter, but a lot of moving pieces, as you understand, and we feel very good about our cash and liquidity position.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Carla. Go ahead.
Carla Casella:
I was going to say, the international debt that you have been carrying in the international facilities, does that go with the U.K./Ireland business? Or is that related to China or the other international?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It largely relates to China, and we may end up paying that off in the near-term here, Carla. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. That concludes our call for this morning. We'd like to wish you all a happy Thanksgiving, stay safe and healthy. And thank you for your interest in L Brands. Thanks.
Operator:
Thank you all for your participation on today's conference call. At this time, all parties may disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Michelle, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2020 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I would now like to turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, and welcome to L Brands' second quarter earnings conference call for the period ending August 1, 2020. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases.
Joining me on the call today are Andrew Meslow, CEO of L Brands; and Stuart Burgdoerfer, Interim CEO of Victoria's Secret and CFO of L Brands. All results we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the special items described in our press release. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. The second quarter of 2020 continued to be an unprecedented time for the world, for the retail industry and for our business. Our first priority was and continues to be the safety of our associates and customers as we reopen the majority of our stores in the second quarter. We adopted new operating models in all of our stores that focused on providing a safe shopping experience. Additionally, we focused on our distribution, fulfillment and call center safety and maximizing our direct businesses.
Overall, we delivered strong results in the second quarter, and we could not have done so without the hard work and dedication of all associates across our business:
in stores, distribution and fulfillment centers, call centers and home offices. On behalf of the company, I'd like to express our deep appreciation for all of their efforts.
During the second quarter, we also took a number of important steps to prepare Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works to operate as stand-alone, separate companies, improve L Brands' profitability, maintain liquidity during the pandemic and maximize our financial performance, all of which we outlined in the earnings commentary that we released last night. As we also discussed in last night's commentary, despite our strong results in the second quarter, we do expect results to moderate. And for a number of reasons, we have a cautious outlook for the second half of the year. We won't repeat those prepared comments this morning in order to leave more time for all of your questions. Thanks, and back over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and now I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
Our first question will come from Ike Boruchow from Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
You mentioned in the press release about bankers being hired for the VS transaction. Can you give us an update on the timing of when you guys are...
[Technical Difficulty]
Amie Preston:
So Ike, you cut out there a little bit, but I think we got the gist of that. So we're going to turn it over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So our view on our activities related to the separation of the businesses. First, as outlined in our circulated script in and as Andrew reminded us this morning, we took important steps to create or to facilitate stand-alone companies, Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works in the quarter. That was the organizational work that we did, taking many shared functions and creating -- or integrating those functions, I should say, into the respective businesses, Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works.
We did retain Goldman and JPMorgan very recently shortly after the end of the quarter. And we'll begin work with them where they'll give the Board and the company advice about the range of alternatives and will assist us in a process as we move forward. Obviously, it's important to get a read on holiday results to value the business and to ensure that we strike the right balance in terms of timing, execution risk and getting an appropriate valuation for the business. And what the company is most focused on right now is driving great results at retail. So we got a lot of people in stores, distribution centers, home offices, vendor partners, all kinds of folks organized to provide the best results at retail. And I couldn't be more proud of what this team has done over the last 90 days or so through the organizational work, reopening stores, maximizing volume on the digital channel and the digital channel. So we're very focused on having the best holiday possible. It will be important as we go down this path. And it will be important and put -- as capital markets, advisers, potential buyers, again, the public markets assess the opportunity for Victoria's Secret. So very focused on having a good holiday, have hired some banks and took a lot of important steps to create stand-alone companies. Thanks, Ike.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
Great. And congrats on a nice quarter. On the expected moderation and trend for the back half of the year that you cited, have you actually seen a material deceleration in trend at either of your concepts to date? And coming out of the pandemic, curious, your confidence in Bath & Body Works in being a stronger business model. Maybe if you can touch on customer acquisition trends more recently.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Thanks, Matt. We're going to start with Stuart and then go to Andrew.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So with respect to very recent results, we have not at VS NewCo -- Andrew will speak to Bath & Body. We, at VS NewCo, have not seen any change in trend, any deceleration of trend over the last several weeks. I realize other retailers have reported on that. We have not seen that in the VS NewCo result.
Andrew Meslow:
So similar to what Stuart just described, Bath & Body Works had very strong and consistent results throughout Q2. And as we got more and more stores open through the end of the quarter, finishing with essentially the majority of stores open and sitting here now today in mid-August, we actually have all but about 40 stores reopened. We've continued to see very strong results in both our direct channel and our stores channel. And as we've moved into August, we've seen results continue to be very strong.
In terms of your question around our future confidence in Bath & Body Works, I would say there are also, we have a lot of belief that our trend should be able to continue as a strong market leader in all of the categories in which we play. As you can imagine, as we've discussed in the past, one of the most critical questions we always ask ourselves is, are we, in fact, in the right categories of business. And are those categories that are still relevant to our customers and growing in the marketplace? And I think it's fair to say that in the case of Bath & Body Works, the answer to that question is a strong yes across our entire portfolio. Obviously, the soap and sanitizer business that historically has been 14% to 15% of the business is even more important to our customers and to all of the country right now in the midst of a pandemic. So as expected, we've seen tremendous growth coming out of that category. And while that may moderate over time, we expect that awareness around the importance of that category, washing your hands, using sanitizers when you're not able to wash your hands, will continue even as the pandemic itself hopefully starts to wane away. In terms of our other categories, we obviously have a huge and important body care business. That business has always been relevant to our customers, is even more relevant to her today as an affordable luxury, a way for her to treat herself even when she's unable or unwilling to spend money on perhaps other larger-ticket commodities. That is an inexpensive way, whether for self-indulgence or to give as a gift. And then similarly, our important home fragrance business that has grown substantially over the last half decade, also tremendously important to her, both now during the pandemic when we're using our homes as a place of work, a place of teaching and school and a place of refuge and solace. Certainly, making your home smell like you want it to is something that our customer has continued to express interest in and again, something we would expect to continue through the pandemic and also afterwards. So again, bottom line, categories that we're in, very, very relevant today, have been relevant in the past, and we absolutely believe are just as relevant to go forward. Hope that helps.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Congrats on the impressive results, even environment aside. Stuart, could you quantify merch margin versus occupancy deleverage within the 2Q gross margins? And then just higher level, you grew EBIT double digits despite top line declining 20% or so. How are you thinking about the opportunities to grow profits on smaller revenue base? Any general color on where you see that longer-term revenue size versus EBIT margins?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Simeon, there was substantial rate expansion on merchandise margin of -- I'm speaking for LB in total, substantial merchandise margin rate expansion in the second quarter versus last year. And there was some deleverage in total in B&O. So one, it was very favorable. There was deleverage and the 2 effects netted to an overall gross profit rate that was about flat so -- to last year, but very significant expansion in merch margin and deleverage in B&O related to both the store channel and some in the direct channel as well, netting to about flat.
Amie Preston:
And then -- sorry, Simeon, what was the second part of your question?
Simeon Siegel:
Any help on how you think about the revenue size versus EBITDA margin in whether LB or either of the concepts? I mean it was just very impressive to see that EBIT growth despite the revenues declining.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, we took a lot of actions, obviously, to manage expenses, Simeon, and we took difficult decisions about expenses related to the store channel specifically. And then separately, as it related to home office overheads and marketing spending, we clamped down pretty hard, as you would expect us to in this environment. And a big part of the result was the difficult decisions we had to make with respect to store operating costs, including store payroll, but we're glad that we've been able to reopen the substantial majority of our stores as we move forward, and we'll continue to manage expenses with discipline. But what you saw in the quarter was very substantial actions that we took and I think generally, what the industry took. But we were quite focused on it and tried to make the right decisions for the business to ensure cash flow and reasonable profitability in the environment, and that's how I'd characterize it.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I wanted to follow up on some of the more cautious comments you made in the prepared remarks, in 2 pieces really. First, you talked about some capacity constraints. Can you just discuss any efforts that you're making ahead of time to try to enhance your capacity to get ready for these peak volumes? And then second, on the costs, obviously, you'll see some incremental COVID costs in the back half. If there's any help you can give us on quantifying that?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Lorraine. So in terms of your question around capacity, again, there's capacity in both of our channels in terms of our stores channel and our direct or online channel. On the online channel, we have obviously been experiencing holiday-like volumes really since the start of the pandemic. And what that has meant is that we have substantially ramped up our fulfillment center capacity even while needing to run those fulfillment centers in a way, as we mentioned earlier, very consistent with our overall focus on safety protocols. And as you might expect, that puts some constraints on throughput and other productivity measures in those centers as we have to apply social distancing and other parameters in those centers.
That said, we are very pleased with the ramp-up in capacity that we have already achieved in both Bath & Body Works and Victoria's Secret. And as we move into the back half of the year where volumes continue to grow, we are also on track to increase capacity even further across both networks. So feeling like we're in good shape there. But obviously, anytime there's a concern around an outbreak, that's something we have to monitor and take appropriate actions. And so again, we are cautiously optimistic that we have procured and are using capacity wisely. When you think about our stores channel, in some ways, it's a similar constraint in terms of the number of customers that we're able to actually allow into the stores at any point in time in order to, again, be focused on safety as our key priority as well as then our ability to process customers through our cash registers and lines within stores. As we've reopened stores, we started off with -- I'm speaking now for Bath & Body Works, a store opening pilot in late April that put a significant constraint on the number of customers we were allowing into the store early in that process, early on, keeping it at about 10% to 20% of max occupancy. As we move through the second quarter, we got comfortable with our protocols, again, around safety, social distancing, consistent sanitizing of all the surfaces and products within the store on a regular basis. And that allowed us to get comfortable with raising that max occupancy up to about 30%. But that's still going to be an issue as we move into the height of holiday in terms of how many customers do we feel comfortable metering into the store at any point in time. Also, in terms of a different cash wrap layout, if you've spent time in our stores, either Victoria's Secret or Bath & Body Works, you'll see that in order to allow for social distancing by our associates, not all cash wraps have been -- or not all cash registers on cash wraps have been able to be utilized. That has caused us to look at more mobile POS cash wraps in order to spread out customers and associates in the back of store to allow for that. So again, we're doing lots of additional testing here in the third quarter to simulate peak volume and understand how will that impact capacity and throughput. But those are really the reasons, Lorraine, for again, the cautious outlook as we move to volume levels in the fourth quarter that, I know you know about our business, are many times 2 to 3 to 4x higher than what we would normally see in the second quarter. In terms of incremental costs, as one would expect, putting in place safety parameters and personal protective equipment has certainly come with costs in our stores, and we are happy that we have made those investments and happy that we were able to procure all those supplies in a very efficient way, but that does come with additional costs. We're also seeing costs associated with what it takes to then run stores in this new operating model in terms of the level of labor, in order to keep customers and associates safe, in order to be able to guide customers through the store, in order to be doing the ongoing sanitation of the store and the product, as I mentioned earlier. So that all comes with additional costs. And then in other parts of the supply chain, whether it's in our fulfillment centers that we are, again, from a safety standpoint, operating differently, including in some cases paying premium pay in order to procure enough labor as well as, as we look upstream in terms of our base of supply and in terms of our distribution and logistics network. We are seeing some inflationary pressure there on wages in order to procure enough labor. So that's at a high level, how I would describe both of those things. Stuart, I don't know if there's any other color you would add either from a VS or a total perspective.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
No. I think -- I mean, as we've talked about together, Andrew, I think that covers it. And I just would put emphasis on -- you said it, I just put emphasis on the store capacity dynamic in the critical holiday period. And Andrew described the things that we're working on, and we are really working on them. But our priority is to keep associates safe and customers safe, which gets to metering of traffic, and sorting out the balance on that capacity in that critical period is key. And we talked about in our remarks that we'll be working to try to spread demand to other time periods to serve customers with -- providing them with the things they want and enjoy and also to just practically spread out the business to deal with some of those constraints.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys, and thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Alexandra Walvis from Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
I wonder if you could update us on the planned time line for the closures at Victoria's Secret. And on a related topic, I think you mentioned in the press release that you're expecting to recapture around 30% to 40% of the sales at those closed stores. Can you talk a little bit about how you're getting to that number? Does that -- is that consistent with the types of recapture rates you've seen historically when you've closed stores? Are you planning for that recapture to mostly take place in other stores or online? And do you see the risk that online traffic could fall a little in those areas as you close stores? So any color on that would be really helpful.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. And thanks for the question. So the store closure activity for Victoria's has been largely complete. Not fully complete, but largely complete. We remain comfortable with the estimate of about 250 stores closing this year in North America. The difference between largely and fully is we have some ongoing dialogue with landlords, property owners, developers on some of these situations. And so not all those -- not all 250 are fully resolved. But again, we remain comfortable with the estimate and an important decision for the business, as you appreciate.
With respect to sales transfer, as you would also intuit or understand, there is a range of outcomes. We remain comfortable with the 30% to 40%. A portion of that, as the minority portion, call it, 5% I'm generalizing, is going to the digital business, the balance going to nearby stores. As you would understand, the specifics vary by trade area. So a lot of this gets down to shopping patterns, traffic flows, et cetera, in trade areas. It's how we look at it. And lastly, Alex, you asked if the roundly 30% to 40% is generally consistent with our past history. And the short answer to that question is, yes, and so we've done more testing on this a year ago. As we got somewhat more aggressive with closures last year, we learned more. We had experience prior to that. But again, what we're seeing is that 30% to 40% range, again, expecting that activity to be EBITDA and profit-neutral as we move through, and we think a healthy thing for the business. We all know what's going on in retailing generally. And for the VS NewCo business, we believe this is an important step, a good step for the long-term health and profitability of the business. So that's where we're at.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Alex.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Jamie Merriman from Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
As you think about ramping up capacity for e-commerce for Bath & Body Works and into holiday, how do you think about leveraging cost there? Does that put any limits on it? And as e-commerce grows as a percentage of sales for BBW, do you see any investments on the horizon in terms of the digital platform or capabilities that you need there?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jamie. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Jamie, thanks for the question. So on your first question in terms of the capacity ramp-up, obviously, we are making any and all investments required in order to procure that capacity. That means working with more fulfillment centers than what we had at this time last year or even at the peak of holiday. We're already operating with more centers this year than last year by about 2x, and that magnitude will continue as we move through the rest of the year.
In terms of the other investments being made into those centers, obviously, I described many of the investments associated with safety and making sure that we have adequate protocols, PPE equipment as well as labor in those stores. Those are really the investments that we'll be making from a capacity standpoint.
From a -- your question around the percent of sale for Bath & Body Works direct and other capabilities that we're looking to add to the direct business over time. I think it's important to just reground ourselves on where has Bath & Body Works online historically been as a percent of the total business. So it finished 2019 at just under 20% of total revenue for the Bath & Body Works segment but had been growing rapidly over the past several years:
over the prior 5 years, compounded average growth rate in the high 20s and the prior 2 years, 2019 and 2018, growing at about 30% per year. So already a large and fast-growing portion of the business.
That said, as you would have seen in our materials released last night for the spring season to date, the first 6 months of the year, Bath & Body Works direct was about 42% of revenue, obviously, peaking in the time frame that stores were closed. But even as the majority of stores have reopened here through July and into August, the direct business as a percent of sales has continued in the high 20s to 30% range, and that's frankly how we're modeling the business go forward. In terms of capability, you would have noticed that we have added the capability of Buy Online Pick Up In Store. That is not something that the business had as a capability prior to second quarter of 2020. We have added that into, at this point, a little over 60 of our locations. 45 of those locations are specifically Buy Online Pick Up In Store, curbside only. That was a model that we were fortunate to have available to us in California when some stores that had reopened were forced to close as a result of governmental and jurisdiction requirements in that state. So we have been able to continue to operate those stores and are pleased with the results we're seeing. Obviously, stores do more volume when they're fully open as opposed to curbside only. But it is a model that has allowed us to continue to serve our customers and associates safely in those environments. We do also have about a dozen locations where we have Buy Online Pick Up In Store in addition to being fully open. And we are pleased with those results as well, and we're intrigued with how to roll that out more broadly as we move through the rest of the year. Again, as Stuart mentioned earlier, we do need to smooth volume out from our peaks in terms of peak days and peak time frames. And certainly, the Buy Online Pick Up In Store option that allows the customer to lock in her sale, but then come and pick it up several days later is a key part of the strategy to do that as we move into the back half. In terms of other capabilities, you've heard us talk about our loyalty pilot over the last couple of years. With the onset of the pandemic, we have not rolled that more broadly, but we continue to be intrigued and pleased with the results we're seeing there and do believe that we'll take that out more broadly as we move into fiscal 2020, '21. And we're also looking at other, what I'll call, omnichannel capabilities to, again, more closely integrate our direct channel with our stores channel. And so certainly, all of the tremendous surge in business online has had us accelerate some of the projects that were maybe back burner or further out to be faster, and we're intrigued by some of those opportunities as we move into next year. Nothing additional I would highlight, though, for balance of this year. Hopefully that helps.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jamie.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Matthew Degulis from KeyBanc.
Matthew Degulis:
So with inventory receipts being down 50% at VS and digital doing well, can you talk about how you're planning the balance of inventory between stores and digital? And I guess asked a different way, how lean can you keep stores relative to what stores were in the recent past and keep the full VS experience for shoppers?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So why don't I take a crack at that? It sounds like your curiosity is mostly on the Victoria's Secret side. It's Stuart. So over the last several years, the inventory levels at Victoria's and the need to promote based on consumer response to what we were doing, not being as strong as we would have hoped, has been high, meaning we've been somewhat overbought over the last 2 or 3 years. I'm speaking generally. It's varied some by line of business and by category.
With that said, the pandemic actually creates a real opportunity for us in the positive sense to make a substantial change in the profile of inventory purchases, which we've outlined. That, in combination with what we do believe as being closer to the customer and delivering better fashion and newness, better merchandising fundamentals around good, better, best, basics with Greg, Amy and John's leadership in those areas as the key merchant leaders in the business. The combination of those things gives us a real reason to believe, along with some focus on getting the cost balance in line, that we've got a real opportunity to deliver good experiences to customers and substantially improve the profitability, the merchandise margin rates in the business. Obviously, being appropriately in stock for the customer in core categories and key sizes is a fundamental and something that needs to be. And we will remain very focused on delivering a good experience for her. So we understand the importance of that. We're managing that well. But really the need to fundamentally become much more conservative on the inventory buy or the purchases, again triggered by the pandemic, has a silver lining to it in that it provided a real clarity to the organization about buying much more conservatively and then chasing in the business when the trend was, in fact, there. So that's where we are. We understand that being in stock is important. But in terms of overall turn in the business, importantly, in certain categories, we were turning reasonably well or at a level that we're very comfortable with. And in other categories, we had meaningful opportunity to improve the turn in the business. And again, the combination of everything I've just described, I think, is going to get us to a much healthier balance between inventory levels and purchases and the underlying demand. So that's where we're at on. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Roxanne Meyer from MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Great. My question is on Bath & Body Works. I'm just wondering if you can talk about how you're planning inventory for the holiday, what your ability to chase into trends looks like? And also your approach to the gifting strategy at Bath & Body Works, whether you're going more after packaged gifts or make your own or anything big that we should think about in terms of strategic changes there.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Roxanne. So as you can imagine, we are absolutely going to be relying very heavily on the agility and flexibility that our supply chain for Bath & Body Works allows us as we move into the back half of the year. Again, because we don't know -- it's a very wide range of outcomes that are possible. And so we want to be able to absolutely chase to the upside if we're able to continue a trend more like what we've seen year-to-date, but also use our agility as we have historically to also cut back if, in fact, things don't materialize to the level that we would expect them to.
So as a reminder, the Bath & Body Works supply chain is almost fully a domestic supply chain, and a lot of it is actually produced right here in central Ohio. And so that gives us, again, tremendous flexibility and agility. And allows us to, as you mentioned, really chase into trends. So in our vernacular, maximize winners and minimize losers or things that end up performing worse than our expectations. The ability to do that has been a critical part of our historical success, and we're absolutely relying on it already through the first half of the year because we were surprised to the upside in the second quarter. And so Bath & Body Works had originally cut back pretty substantially on receipts at the beginning of the quarter, but we were able to successfully chase back into receipts through the quarter in order to meet our demand that exceeded our expectations, and we would expect to be able to use that same flexibility and agility in the back half. In terms of your question around gifting strategy and specific assembled gift sets versus more open stock gifting. Again, I think it's important to remind everyone that Bath & Body Works is absolutely a gifting destination for customers year round at any point in time. At the height of holiday, probably 50% to 60% of customers claim to be coming in for gifts. Even the rest of the year, that number is in the 30% to 40% range. So year-round gifting is something that we focus on for sure at Bath & Body Works, and we see that as a successful driver of the business. As we move into this particular Christmas, I would say, based on several years of testing results around the pros and cons of having assembled gift sets, we certainly have moved over the last couple of years to having fewer, smaller portion of our business in those assembled gift sets. And later, meaning closer to Christmas as opposed to earlier in the holiday season, is when that business really peaks. And so we'll continue to rely on those learnings to impact our flow of assembled gifts in terms of amount and timing. But again, what that does have us focus on then is ensuring that the whole assortment that's available for customers inside of the holiday time frame is giftable and making that as easy as possible for her with things like cellophane wrap available for all customers, ribbons to create gifts. Our associates are happy to create those gifts for you in-store as well as provide you with supplies to do that from home. So gifting in general as much, if not more of a focus this year than it's ever been. Hope that's helpful.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Susan Anderson from B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
Nice job managing the quarter. I guess, first, one clarification just on the performance you talked about quarter to date. Is that from July or, I guess, from the total performance you saw in the quarter? And then as it relates to VS, it seems like there's some stabilization going on there, though, a little bit muddled given the pandemic. Can you maybe talk about the drivers of the performance? I guess what's working now versus historically? And then the 250 stores you'll close this year, are there any thoughts around how this is going to impact profitability? And the retention rate of sales you expect either online or at other stores.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Susan. We'll start with Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So in terms of is Victoria's Secret stabilizing, I think in many respects, it is. Earlier in this call, we talked about the benefits of a more conservative posture on inventory purchase levels, how aggressive we're buying and how that has an effect on promotional activity. So that's been an important change. It's starting to bear some fruit. I talked about the work that Greg, Amy and John are doing in beauty, PINK, Victoria's, lingerie and the fundamentals that they're pursuing in terms of merchandising fundamentals, easy things to say, but hard to do, really gaining some traction and seeing across all major categories healthy average unit retail growth and meaningful margin rate improvements, which is certainly indication of a better, stronger response from consumers with respect to what we're selling.
We are implementing a profit improvement plan that we've talked about. A lot of that benefit relates to the Victoria's Secret NewCo business. But with all that said, we got a lot of work in front of us. We're -- the businesses results have declined substantially over the last few years. We're not, in any way, out of touch with reality about where we are. But with that said, and in the spirit of your question, I sense a real stabilization. And with the combination of actions that we're pursuing and that we've talked about, I see the opportunity for that stabilization and then for resuming to a pattern of growth, most importantly at retail in terms of top line and margin dollars, again in combination with the cost-rationalization actions that we've pursued. Maybe lastly and a lot into the -- in my response, but it all is -- all these factors matter. Amy has done important work on the PINK brand positioning. John is doing important work on the Victoria's brand positioning. Some of the changes, one might argue have been subtle so far, but we have indication that the consumer is noticing those changes and those are important changes, and there's more to come on both those things. So we've got a lot in front of us. Again, we're not confused about where we are. You put that in combination in operating in an environment that's a pandemic, with the effect of closing stores and the earlier conversations around store capacity and so on at holiday. But feeling like the business is stabilizing and that we're creating the platform for growth. So that would be my perspective on Victoria's. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
And Susan, you did say that the closure of the 250 stores, we expect to be neutral to profitability. I'm not sure we understood your question about quarter-to-date versus July? Or I wasn't sure what you meant by that.
Susan Anderson:
Yes. Just in terms of -- it doesn't sound like you've seen any weakness from back-to-school or anything. Like the trends have continued, I guess. I was wondering if that was from July, just given I think there was maybe some variances from the beginning of the quarter to the end of the second quarter.
Amie Preston:
Yes. No, we had consistent business throughout the quarter, and that has continued so far into August.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Omar Saad from Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
A quick follow-up on BBW, the plus-87 store comp or open-store comp, obviously, we assume that slowed as more and more stores open. I think 98% of the stores are open now. Is there a way you can kind of put some guardrails on how we should think about how the stores are operating kind of on an ongoing basis? And then Stuart, would you mind kind of addressing quickly as you do more BOPIS and curbside, the margin differential in those types of transactions versus pure traditional e-commerce?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar. We'll go to Andrew, actually, for both those questions.
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. So thank you, Omar. In our prepared remarks last night, we talked a little bit about what were the factors that we thought certainly helped benefit the strong positive comps that we did see as stores opened. So again, to reiterate what those were, obviously, when you have a very small number of stores open in the early part of the quarter, as a reminder, we -- for Bath & Body Works, started the quarter with only 23 stores reopened in North America. And we gradually increased that number by about 50 a week through May, about a couple of hundred a week through June and then down to about 100 a week through July to get to that essentially fully reopened as we sit here now in mid-August. But as you would expect, when very few stores were reopened and only a couple of stores in each market early in the quarter, we obviously saw a tremendously high comps out of those locations as they were drawing from a multiple store trade radius.
Obviously, in our categories, too, which is a use-up category, where if you're loyal to our products, whether again that's soap or body care or home fragrance, you tend to, if you're using it every day, go through it in about 4 to 8 weeks, depending on the product category, which means as stores were closed, there was clearly some pent-up demand. And while some customers did move their purchasing online, many customers waited for our stores to reopen. And so we certainly felt some of that impact as we reopened. And then also, as mentioned, obviously, industry-wide, there's a tremendous demand for soap and sanitizers. And so we certainly felt the benefit of being a strong player in that category. All of that said, even as stores were opened for a longer period of time. So specifically, stores that opened late in Q1 or early in Q2, by the end of the second quarter, we were still seeing very strong double-digit comps out of those locations. And again, that's what we're looking at and again, building our upside views to assume that -- what would it take to maintain that kind of a trend while also managing to downsides, again, either based on capacity or if there were to be a change in momentum in the business. On your question regarding BOPIS, I think maybe it's -- or Buy Online Pick Up In Store, I think it's important to clarify that the capability that I described earlier was specific to Bath & Body Works. That's the only locations right now where we are utilizing that Buy Online Pick Up In Store capability. In terms of your question around what do those -- the profile of those transactions look like relative to "a normal transaction". Again, when you're buying online, you're doing so through the website and then directing the purchase ultimately to be fulfilled in one of our stores. But the profile of those transactions look very similar to our other online transactions. Our online transactions tend to have a slightly average order -- higher, slightly average order size than our in-store transactions. But in terms of margin or category mix, very similar to a "normal or average transaction". So not something that we would think go forward drives a material change. Hope that's helpful.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Great. Andrew, I wanted to ask about the capacity -- store capacity that you're talking about at Bath & Body Works. I think you indicated that as a result of social distancing, that you had capped your capacity at 30% of max right now in Bath & Body Works stores. Does that continue into the third quarter? And what percentage of revenue -- so we understand the foot traffic is at 30% of max capacity. But what percentage of last year's revenue can that low level of traffic capacity deliver in your stores? I would assume that it's materially better than that. But I just wanted to see if you could help us understand how the traffic capacity limits translate into store-only revenues at this level.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Kimberly. So that's obviously a lot of complexity associated with that answer or with that question. So I'll try to directionally answer hopefully in a way that's helpful. So again, when we're speaking in terms of metering traffic or number of customers in the store, the percent capacity that we're talking about there is generally a capacity that's given by local authorities around what would the fire marshal, for example, say, is a safe number of people to have in the store at any point in time. And we've pegged that 30% directionally number due to really looking at what does that allow for in terms of social distancing of associates and customers throughout the store. So obviously, in many days of the week and many times of the year, that's not a problem at all, meaning that even at a 30% capacity, we don't -- that doesn't create a line outside the store at all. But at other times of the year, in the peak of holiday, that's obviously what we're looking at and trying to figure out.
So in terms of that number itself, we certainly will be continuing to test and monitor. That, again, the priority is safety. So we're not going to make any changes to that if we think that requires us to compromise on safety and social distancing. But certainly, we are continuing to monitor to see if that number is right.
The other part of your question was around modeling. What does that allow us to do in terms of covering last year revenue? So obviously, in the second quarter, even with those parameters in place and even more stringent parameters in place earlier in the quarter, you saw that, obviously, there was no constraint in terms of our ability to maximize revenue in the stores. Traffic into our locations in the second quarter was down. It was down in the high single-digit range. There was some differentiation of that traffic between mall stores and non-mall stores. It was down more in mall stores. It was actually up in non-mall stores driving a performance differentiation between those locations. But the other parts of the selling equation were up dramatically:
so conversion, up in the 30% range; and average dollar sale, up in the 40% to 50% range, so way more than an offset, obviously, to that traffic decline. And we will be relying on those metrics to continue to drive performance as we move into the back half. The combination of those things obviously means that the dollar generated by every footsteps into our store is up dramatically, up basically double to last year, if that's helpful.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Maybe, Kimberly, just to add on a little bit or to further emphasize what you're trying to envision. We are -- how many people can you fit in the store safely, right? And if we think about in Bath & Body's case, base case run rate, 40% to 50% conversion rates, right, generally. And at Victoria's, let's say, 30% conversion rates. How do you think about lookers versus buyers, right? And what do you see in terms of conversion rates and dollars per footstep? That's a key part of what we're trying to sort out, what Andrew was describing. And what we've seen so far is a substantial increase in dollars per footstep, right? So it's a complex thing. You're trying to sort out physical capacity in your question, I think. And then there's another aspect of what's the nature of that visitor to your store, right? And what is she doing? And how many people are with her? And what's her intent to buy, right? So it's complicated beyond just how many people can fit in the store.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly. We're running a little short on time here. We have lots of people left in the queue. So let's try to ask only one question, and we'll see how many we can get in here.
Operator:
Our next question will come from Jay Sole from UBS.
Jay Sole:
My question is about Bath & Body Works International and the partner-owned stores. How are you thinking about the growth potential in that business from the roughly 285 stores or some odd this year? What countries do you see it from? And is there anything about the separation, which will cause a change in that business' growth potential and how you're managing it?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jay.
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks, Jay. Yes. So as we've talked about in some prior calls, the BBW franchised stores around the world outside of North America is a very nice business model, very successful and profitable business model that has seen nice growth over the last several years. Obviously, the pandemic had an impact on that business, just like it had an impact on all of our businesses. But similar to the U.S., the rest of world franchise partners are now largely reopened in terms of locations around the world and also were able to very successfully shift business to online in all of their markets as well.
So when we think about from a future potential opportunity, again, that franchise model, which is a low-capital, capital-light investment with a lot of potential upside, is something that we absolutely do believe over the next several years we will want to expand further into additional geographies. Because, again, we have seen it perform well essentially everywhere we've gone. In terms of specifics around that, again, in the midst of still figuring out 2020 and operating safely, we're not going to speculate on what that will be go forward. But certainly, an important profitable business and one that we do see with growth potential go forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Jay. Let's try to get 2 more in here.
Operator:
Our next question will come from William Reuter from Bank of America.
William Reuter:
My question is just on the marketing savings. How much you achieved during this quarter? And then will you continue to keep your marketing expenditures at lower levels in Q3 and Q4? Or since stores are open, are you going to increase some of the historical levels? That's it.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Bill. We'll go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Bill, short answer is they'll return back to more typical levels. So we pulled back on a lot of stuff, as you could understand, but they'll return to more normal levels as we move into the holiday period.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Bill. One final question.
Operator:
And our last question will come from Paul Lejuez from Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
I'm sorry if I missed this, but can you talk about how the soap, sanitizer business performed during the second quarter? And also, what percent -- if you look at it this way, what percent of transactions included a soap, sanitizer item compared to the first quarter and maybe the -- versus the same quarter a year ago?
Andrew Meslow:
Paul, it's Andrew. So I did mention earlier that we obviously saw a very strong performance out of our soap and sanitizer category. Directionally, that business last year, on an annual basis, was 14% of the business. In the first half of the year last year was in that same 14% to 15% of the business range. And this year, in Q1, it was about 25% of the business. And in Q2, a little higher than that.
But in terms of percent of transactions, I don't think that's something we historically have talked about. But safe to say that customer engagement into that category has been very high. And so as it's grown as a percent of sales, it's seen a comparable growth in terms of customership into that category and certainly a business that we remain very bullish on into the future.
Amie Preston:
Okay. All right. That concludes our call today, and thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference. All participants may disconnect at this time. Thank you for your participation on today's call.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Angela, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2020 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. Any objections, you may disconnect at this time.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Good morning, and welcome to L Brands first quarter earnings conference call for the period ending May 2, 2020. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Joining me on the call today are Andrew Meslow, CEO of L Brands; and Stuart Burgdoerfer, Interim CEO of Victoria's Secret and CFO of L Brands.
All results we discussed on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the special items described in our press release. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Amie, and good morning, everyone. I'm honored to be joining you this morning on my first earnings call as L Brands' CEO. I'd first like to thank Les Wexner for all that he has done to build this business and for all the time that he has devoted to mentoring and coaching me and other leaders of our business. We're extremely grateful that he will continue to benefit -- that we will continue to benefit from his input as Chairman Emeritus of the Board. I am also thrilled to be working with Sarah Nash, our new Board Chair and the other experienced leaders on our Board and management team.
I'd like to acknowledge the unprecedented time we are living through right now and the uncertainty that the COVID-19 pandemic creates. We have taken actions to manage the business through the crisis successfully, with the primary prioritization on safety for our associates, our customers and our communities. We have great appreciation for the smart and difficult work that all of our associates and partners around the world are doing on our behalf. We are all focused and energized by our opportunities to drive long-term shareholder value, including implementing a profit improvement plan at Victoria's Secret, separating the Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works businesses, and continuing to drive strong growth at Bath & Body Works. In the prepared commentary, which we released last night, we provided more detail on our response to the COVID-19 pandemic, our first quarter results, our go-forward plan for Victoria's Secret and PINK, and our outlook for the second quarter. We won't repeat those comments this morning in order to leave more time for your questions. Thank you, and back over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Now I -- thanks, and now I'll turn it back over to Angela.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I was just hoping that you could provide an update on the reopened Bath & Body Works stores, how those are performing, how e-commerce is doing in those markets. And then if you could also speak to any stock-outs or talk to your ability to get back into the product that has been selling out online?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine. We'll go to Andrew for that question.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Lorraine. First, let me remind everyone that our first priority in any store reopening has been focused on the safety of our associates and our customers. I'd also say that while we made the incredibly difficult but appropriate decision to close all of our stores on March 17, we immediately did begin working on what would be required to reopen stores as quickly as possible and as safely as possible. And so we actually were able to have 2 pilot stores reopen here in the local Columbus market on April 3. So we have now over a month, 1.5 months of actual experience with these stores.
Again, emphasizing safety has meant that our store operating model is almost completely different from what it was prior. What do I mean by that? We start each day by taking the temperature of all of our associates. We require that our associates wear masks either that we provide or that they bring from home. We also ask that, in many cases, they were gloves. We provided individual aprons. We have moved away from shared shopping mesh bags to individual shopping bags, and we have practiced a significant amount of social distancing in the stores, which has meant that we have removed fixtures. We have marked stickers on the floor where customers should stand when they're in the store. We have significantly limited the number of customers that are allowed into any of our stores at 10% to 20% of the capacity of those stores depending on jurisdiction. We have reduced our hours of operation. And we are doing significant cleaning throughout the day as well as before and after openings, and we're doing that cleaning in a very visible way. Last but certainly not least, we've reduced the number of registers in stores and installed plexiglass barriers in between registers and in between the associate and the customer. And we are cleaning all of the surfaces that the customer would be in contact with after every interaction and transaction. So with all of that said, I would say we have been very encouraged by what we have seen qualitatively and quantitatively so far in those openings. Again, we have been, first and foremost, focused on safety, so we survey our associates every day to understand how comfortable are they with the work environment that we've provided. And we are also regularly surveying the customers through e-mails that have shopped in our stores, and we continue to get very high marks from both of those groups. On actual results standpoint, I should point out that we've been operating 2 different store model tests at this point. One, which is an open model, where we put in place all the safety measures that I just described. But we -- and the store is essentially open for business, but with a limited number of customers that are able to shop at any point in time. The other model that we've put in place is a call ahead or go online and buy ahead model, where we're not allowing open shopping in the store, but where transactions are placed by the customer ahead of time and they come and pick up the order once they get an e-mail confirming that it's been fulfilled. That said, we have seen better success out of the first model, the social distancing model as we're calling it. And in terms of total results, again, I would caveat that this is a very small sample size. At the end of Q1, we had 23 stores reopened in the models that I've just described. But with those caveats, the performance that we've seen out of those open stores has been very similar to the type of trend we were seeing before we closed all the stores back on March 17. So encouraged by that performance. Your other question was around the performance of online and specifically online in the markets where we have reopened stores. So again, as you saw in our prepared remarks, our online business for the total quarter was very strong, with net sales up 85%. I think it's important to understand that within the time frame, the online channel started to perform significantly better than that total quarter of up 85% once the stores closed. So for the fiscal month of February, the online channel was up 33%, which is very similar to the trend we had seen in 2019 and 2018. For the month of March, net sales were up 60%. And for the month of April, net sales were up over 150%. Again, so as stores closed, the online business saw a significant increase. And that increase, while driven by soaps and sanitizers at up over a 300% comp and more than doubling the rate of penetration to last year, we saw all of our other key categories also performing at levels significantly higher than what they had been performing at historically as well. So good business across all categories. I believe your last question was around the stock-outs that we've been experiencing. I would say the good news is our supply chain has continued to perform very well through the crisis, with the notable exception, obviously, that the tremendous surge in demand in the sanitizer business has exceeded our supply chain in the early part of the first quarter. I would say, we have now successfully caught up with that demand. And so you should be now seeing online more consistent availability of our sanitizer product, versus a month, 1.5 months ago, it might have been only available for a couple of days a week. And in our stores, as they reopened, we've been able to maintain our in-stocks across all categories at this point.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Alexandra Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
My question is on inventory management. Can you talk a little bit about the process that you went through to reduce inventory receipts quite significantly for the first half, why those were reduced so much more at Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works and whether that was just a function of the greater expectations for demand in Bath & Body Works. And any thoughts on how you're planning purchases for the second half?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Alexandra.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Alex. So yes, you saw in our prepared remarks that at Bath & Body Works, we did reduce inventory receipts relatively meaningfully. But as I just described, the performance that we've seen in our direct channel is up dramatically. And so in some categories, soaps and sanitizers specifically, we've actually had to significantly increase the amount of receipts that we would have expected versus last year because that category for the total first quarter, even with stores closed for half of the time, the soap and sanitizer business was actually up for the total quarter meaningfully. So we've increased receipts there.
We have decreased receipts, as you would expect, in our other categories based on our current assumptions around store reopening cadence in the second quarter. But in the total level, we are very comfortable, not only with our total amount of inventory, but with the mix of inventory as we move into Q2 and then into Q3. I think it is important to remind everyone that, again, when the stores closed in the middle of March, the seasonal product that was available for sale at that point was early spring, in some cases, things like Easter product in our stores. And so as we do start to reopen the majority of our stores in the month of June and July, we will be opening in a semiannual sale type format, which, again, is similar to what we would be running normally in that time frame anyway. But in terms of your question, inventory levels and inventory mix at this point at Bath & Body Works, we feel very comfortable with.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Great. I wanted to ask about the range of options being considered for Victoria's Secret, given that you are on track to pursue a separation of the 2 divisions. And then secondarily, if you could talk about Bath & Body Works and some of the more permanent changes you expect in a post-COVID world, I would be interested to hear about your observations. And has this presented, in fact, an opportunity for you to accumulate new customers for that business?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly. We'll start with Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Kimberly. With respect to Victoria's Secret, and we're referring to the business internally as VS newco. Kimberly, what we are intensely focused on right now is strengthening the foundation of that business, and even addressing the foundation of that business to manage through this crisis and to create a foundation for separation and for growth. And the elements to that work, I think you appreciate from our commentary that was provided, but I think it's important to review them because it provides very important context to the essence of your question, which is what options will we look at and generally in what time frames for the separation of Victoria's Secret.
So as you've read, as we announced last night, first and foremost, we're closing approximately 250 stores in North America over the next several months. That's a very significant decision, an appropriate decision and one that we think will strengthen the business. But the details of that, the implementation of that, the effect of that is significant. So rationalizing real estate, more to come after that. But 250 stores closing is a big deal, and we're initiating conversations with landlords with respect to that. So that's kind of a key piece of work. Secondly, we are engaged in a complete, comprehensive detailed review of our entire home office organization, really with the exception of Bath & Body, there's a little work happening there. But as you know, it's a well-running business and it doesn't need much change. But with respect to Victoria's Secret newco and all the shared functions -- sourcing, production, technology, HR functions, finance functions, store design functions, real estate functions, the wide range of shared organizations today, we are embarking on a process to decentralize those functions to create 2 stand-alone companies. The amount of work involved in that -- and we're energized about the work, but the amount of work involved in that and doing that in a way that strengthens the business, clarifies accountability, retains key talent, that's a very involved piece of work. And with that is a substantial target for overhead dollar reduction, okay? And you will naturally ask, well, when will that be done? And we would expect that, that work will be largely concluded or concluded by the end of the second quarter, okay? So we're closing a bunch of stores, big deal. We're reorganizing, rationalizing, decentralizing, reducing overhead for a large home office workforce, that's in process. Thirdly, we've got work to do, and it's underway to address the losses and -- both on an OI and EBITDA basis in the U.K. and China. And you'll ask about those in detail, and we won't be prepared to comment in detail about them other than we're looking at all options with respect to those geographies in those markets. And then lastly, there are 2 more things that we're working on, is we've got to reopen all of our stores. So if you thought about selling a business literally in the moment where essentially all of your stores are closed and gave that serious thought for a minute, I know you're a serious person, you'd say, it's an interesting time to be actively marketing a business, right? So we would expect to have all the Victoria's stores certainly opened by the end of July. Our pace, we've got some range of pace in terms of the activity in June and July, but would expect to have the stores we aren't closing to be opened by the end of July. But as you again appreciate, there's a lot of work involved in that to do that in the ways that Andrew just described for Bath & Body, starting with safety of associates and customers. And then lastly, the management of inventory. So adjusting inventories, in Alex's earlier question, adjusting inventories for Victoria's. There's been a ton of work done there internally. And with our sourcing partners, and we believe we've managed it well, but there's more to do there. And so all those things are in-flight to strengthen the foundation of Victoria's, to allow the business to navigate appropriately through this unprecedented situation for retail and to then have a business that one could reasonably market for sale. So that's our thought process. The Board is heavily involved, as you would expect, led by now Sarah Nash, and they're getting regular updates as they should. And we'll consider a wide range of options for the business. But the ultimate goal here -- the goal, I won't say, ultimate, the goal is clear, 2 separate independent stand-alone companies. And having Bath & Body be a pure-play public company such that it gets appropriately valued in the market. It's a long answer, but it's a big question, and I hope responsive to what was on your mind.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Now we'll go to Andrew for the second part of the question.
Andrew Meslow:
Kimberly, thanks for the question. So as we think about the crisis and what the impact will be to the Bath & Body Works business both short-term and long term, I think, as we always do, we first ask ourselves the question of are we in the right businesses. And I think the very clear answer to that, that we're seeing, is a strong yes.
So again, in our hand soap and sanitizer business, which last year was about 14% of the business, with the crisis that's occurred and the focus on safety, that business is clearly an essential part of our customers' daily routine. And so we were already a market leader in that category before the crisis. As I mentioned earlier, we've been able to grow our sales in soaps and sanitizers materially, even with the stores closed for half of the quarter, and so that is encouraging. And we're assuming, I think, appropriately that, that should continue to be a growth category for us as we look out into the foreseeable future. Also important to understand though that our other major categories of body care and home fragrance, we also believe are vital to her, not only here in the short-term but in the long term. Home fragrance, as everyone is spending more time out of necessity in their homes, the ability to turn your home into a sanctuary and to have it be reflective of your emotional state, it's something that we've heard qualitatively from our customers and we have seen in terms of our results, both in stores prior to and after -- prior to closure and after reopening as well as in our online channel. And then our body care business, with its emphasis on fragrances, lotions, bath and shower products, we believe continues to offer her a relatively inexpensive opportunity to pamper herself while she is isolated. And as we think long term, there's no reason why those categories and our emotional positioning around fragrance, our affordability that makes our products affordable enough for everyday use, while our quality and efficacy make them special enough to give as a gift, we absolutely believe will continue to be a strong positioning opportunity for us to go forward. The other pieces, I think, are interesting...
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
I was going to ask because you had mentioned customer as well. And so I was going to add a little bit around what we are seeing from a customer standpoint. So obviously, with stores closed for half the quarter, store customers, we saw fewer of them than we did last year. But our direct business, as I mentioned, especially since stores closed, has seen market growth.
And I think in addition to just the number of customers that we've now seen online, one of the metrics we obviously look at is the combination of new-to-channel and new-to-brand because, as you can imagine, using direct is both an absolute customer acquisition vehicle as well as the ability to turn a customer from a single channel customer into a dual-channel customer drives overall value. And we have seen very exciting results on that front in the time frame that the stores have been closed.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew and Stuart and Kimberly.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about separating the businesses apart, which areas of operation -- how do you think about the segmenting the businesses and the synergies that you used to have from being a joint organization being decentralized? What goes where? And how do you see the time frame of that evolving? And does it impact one's operating margin potential more than another?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Dana, it's Stuart. I'll take it. In terms of how we think about it, as you appreciate in your question, first of all, it's complex and needs to be addressed thoughtfully. With that said, we're very comfortable that the amount of dissynergy -- with a couple of exceptions that I'll comment on, the amount of dissynergy between the 2 businesses is very manageable and shouldn't have a meaningful impact on either business' operating results.
The 2 areas that will require the most thought are -- is technology, which by its nature is a significant function. And if one doesn't approach it thoughtfully in terms of a logical separation of the technology over a couple of year, maybe a 3-year period, one could incur cash and other costs in a way that's not necessary. So obviously, we expect to pursue a separation of the technology on the businesses on a thoughtful basis, and we would expect that we will have some sharing of technology for a 2- or 3-year period. Our systems aren't as integrated as some other retailers, it's important to know. Bath & Body's direct business, for example, is not riding on the same platforms that Victoria's business is riding on. And in fact, those activities today are outsourced. But technology would be one that deserves and will get appropriate thought as we separate these businesses. Maybe 2 others I'd comment on, the sourcing and production of beauty products. You know, Dana, that Victoria's Secret has a beauty business within it. It's a good business. It's a sizable business and running with good numbers, and shares organizationally resources and works with some of the same vendors -- many of the same vendors, I should say, as Bath & Body, but we believe that we can manage that well. And it's important to understand that scale economies aren't linear and straight. In fact, they're step functions. And one needs to very carefully understand how scale really works and where the steps really are in scale economies. And again, we think we can manage that area well. And then the last area that comes up a lot, which we believe is very addressable, would relate to the movement of goods, the inbound movement of goods from base of supply is largely separate today. As you understand, the sourcing base for Victoria's Secret is largely one that's international outside the United States, largely with the exception of Beauty, which I already commented on. And the sourcing base for Bath & Body is largely domestic, as you understand, in personal care and beauty. So the inbound transportation as a general matter, there are a few exceptions. But as a general matter, is generally not shared. The distribution and logistics aspects of the business, there is a sharing there in some regards, but the distribution centers themselves are largely brand-specific. The outbound transportation from central points in -- largely in the Midwest and specifically in Columbus, that outbound transportation is shared, and we have some scale there and we can retain that pretty easily. So with respect to movement of merchandise, again, relatively easy and being addressed. The overall point, Dana, I'd want to make is one of the perspectives coming out of the situation with Sycamore and part of the work in front of us over the next month to 45 days, is we're going to more aggressively and actively separate these businesses. We're going to use this time to do that, such that the ongoing support from LB or BBW remainco to VS newco, the nature and the extent of that is substantially less than what was contemplated in the arrangements with Sycamore. And we think that will serve the business well and more quickly and more appropriately separate the businesses. So part of that org work that I've mentioned is very much focused on a more accelerated decentralization of many of these functions. But again, technology, a little bit in the supply chain for Personal Care and Beauty, a little bit in distribution logistics, but we think we can manage through all that.
Amie Preston:
Thanks for the question, Dana.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo Securities.
Irwin Boruchow:
Hope everyone is staying safe. Stuart, I guess 2 high-level questions for you. Talking about the alternatives internationally with VS and its store rationalization opportunity. Can you talk about what you think the ultimate size of the revenue base might need to come down as you start to manage the profitability for that brand? And then just on BBW, great digital business. The margins are obviously pressured given what's going on. But is there anything that's going on in the business now, whether it's the mix or just anything in general, that changes your view of what the operating margin profile of that business should be once the macro basically normalizes?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Ike, I'll start on the Victoria's newco-related question. There's -- in the spirit of strengthening the foundation of that business, you appreciate the effect of closing roundly 250 stores in North America. We think there will be more store rationalization over the next several years as well. And you'd reasonably ask the number of stores. Obviously, as you move out in time, you're less certain of that. But there is an additional need to further rationalize the real estate in the business.
In answer to your question, we see a pathway for a business that's, say, in the neighborhood of a $6 billion-ish business or a $5.5 billion business, one that mixes much more significantly to digital and one, obviously, that's substantially more profitable than the current or recent state of the business. So a big opportunity to have substantial growth in the digital channel. We're experiencing nice results here recently, but more strategically, big opportunity for growth with a good platform to start with. A rationalization of the store business, a big first step in this current year, but as you understand in your question, there is more to come. And what we see is a somewhat smaller but substantially more profitable business with a much better foundation, and then obviously a return to growth, which is what all of us are looking for, for our associates, for our customers, for shareholders. So that's the overall thought. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And Andrew, for the second part of the question.
Andrew Meslow:
Ike, thanks for the question. So again, the nature of your question was around are we seeing anything specifically right now that makes us think differently, either because of mix or other factors about what our longer-term profitability, operating margin structure should look like, and my short answer on that would be no.
Again, as a reminder, we have had a large direct business already. That direct business, as we've shared, historically, has performed at an operating margin very similar to our stores business. And while we are certainly seeing a significant shift to online here through the crisis time frame and would expect that some of that will be an ongoing shift for the long term. There's nothing inherent about that shift in mix that we believe would materially change the opportunity associated with our long-term operating margin structure as we move to 2021 and beyond.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thank you. Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Next question comes from Simeon Siegel with BMO Capital Markets.
Simeon Siegel:
Great. I hope everyone is doing well through this. Stuart, I think you gave a distinction between merch margin and product margin for BBW. Anything you could provide similarly for Victoria's? And then following up on that conversation just with the pullback of inventory, how you'd expect comp versus margin or just discounting to look. And then just for Andrew, just quickly, recognizing the updated square footage expectation for BBW this year, does anything change in terms of the long-term view on square footage that we've been seeing, White Barns, et cetera?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Simeon, it's Stuart. So I'm sorry. The question you're asking about the differences between product and merch margin for Victoria's newco is what, what's the question?
Simeon Siegel:
Just your thought on discounts versus -- or what we should expect for promotional cadence for Victoria's Secret, how that looks on this -- the product margin side.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Okay. I just want to make sure I wasn't missing something beyond that. So Simeon, as you would expect and addressed earlier in the questions and through our commentary, we have taken very significant action on inventory. Very substantial, hopefully thoughtful, I think it is, but very substantial action on inventory.
One of the challenges in the business over the last 2 or 3 years is that we have had a view of revenue or sales that didn't materialize and have been challenged with promotion to clear goods with a softer revenue line. Said another way, we weren't buying as conservatively, certainly with the benefit of hindsight as we should have. As Rahm Emanuel said, I think he said it, others I'm sure have said it, never waste a crisis. So as serious a matter as this has been for our country and for retail and for our company, I don't, in any way, mean to make light of it. But the clarity of the need to take action on inventory and overhead and real estate, we're really quite seriously approaching all those subjects. And with a very substantial reduction in receipts, I would expect that any phenomena that we might have experienced over the last 2 or 3 years, where we have found ourselves to be somewhat overbought and in needing to drive promotion as a result of that, we're not going to be in that place this fall. Just to be clear, we will not be. The receipt reductions are very, very substantial. So that, along with, honestly, John and Amy being in seat longer, they've got -- they've learned a lot. They're talented people. They're forming their teams. They've been in role longer. The combination of those 2 things and some early indications online -- granted, got to be careful about interpreting online business right now, but I have lots of reasons to believe that the margin rate context should be substantially better for Victoria's as we move into the fall season and particularly in the fourth quarter for the business. With that said, as we open stores in Q2, we're going to be in semiannual sale mode. And so there will be, in the second quarter, margin rate pressure, as you would understand, given where we are in the calendar and the need to clear goods in Q2. It's a long answer, but a lot of reasons to believe that we should be in a better place with respect to margin rates at Victoria's.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Simeon, thank you for your question. So again, in terms of our real estate strategy for 2020, hopefully, it's understandable that our decision to slow down dramatically the pace of activity this year was driven by the overall company's desire to be much more conservative in terms of capital spending during these unprecedented times, not driven by any change in our either performance of the stores that we've remodeled and opened or our belief in the long-term opportunity that those remodels do provide to the business.
As a reminder, we finished last year with just under 50% of our total North American fleet having gone through a remodel. Even with the ramp down number of projects that we will go through this year, we'll finish the year with about 52% of the fleet remodeled. And we remain -- even in the period prior to store closure, we remain very pleased with the results that we're seeing from those stores. And so as I look out to next year and beyond, again, depending on the overall financial health of the business, our intent would be to get back to a significantly larger number of projects in the years ahead. Hopefully, that helps.
Simeon Siegel:
Excellent. Perfectly. Best of luck to everyone. Stay safe.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon. [Operator Instructions]
Operator:
Our next question comes from Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Maybe for Stuart, just understanding that it's difficult to give guidance in a time like this. Could you outline maybe some of the various cash flow scenarios that you're contemplating for the next couple of quarters? Would you expect to need to tap the revolver? And then along these lines, what are the cash flow implications of VS remaining part of LB for the near to medium term?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So as you would expect, our focus on managing cash flow and liquidity has been, if not the most, among the 2 or 3 most important things we've been doing since the crisis emerged. So our focus on it and actions taken to improve it, which have been outlined, have been very significant for all of the understandable reasons. And I would say generally consistent with actions taken by the industry, by the way.
And so as you know, we converted the revolver to an ABL facility, and that's been disclosed and communicated. We have very conservative revenue projections for purposes of forecasting cash for the balance of the year. We will continue to consider raising additional financing as appropriate. We've done about 10 bond deals over the last 10 years. I checked with Tim Faber, who's our Treasurer and a terrific treasurer, by the way. We know how to do debt financings, and I don't mean that in an arrogant way. It's -- but we're familiar with it. And the markets are open to people situated like we are, we're aware of that. And so we'll be looking at the merits of additional financings as we move on. And we recognize that today, though, those markets are available to us. And so will we make some use of the ABL as we move through the year? We expect to, based on the forecast that we have. And will we also give serious consideration to raising additional financing? We will, with obviously the right conversations with the Board and approvals from the Board. And again, the markets are open to us. And earnings calls are important things to use to update the markets. And so we'll see what our specific plans are here shortly. But there are plenty of bankers calling us, and we're familiar with doing financings and the markets are open. So hopefully, that's a good sense of an answer there without being more specific.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mark.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Tiffany Kanaga with Deutsche Bank.
Tiffany Kanaga:
Would you discuss in a little more detail your expected cadence from here for store reopenings across your brands, such as how many stores you might have open at the end of May and at the end of June? And I just want to confirm from your earlier comments today, would it be fair to characterize Bath & Body Works sales in open stores as in the range of the 20% comp you saw before the closing, even as we move further into May?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Tiffany. We'll go to Andrew for that question.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Tiffany. So again, as I stated earlier, the #1 priority with how we're running the business overall, but especially as we progress with reopening stores, is the safety of our associates and our customers, and that will obviously drive the pace at which we're able to reopen stores.
That said, to your -- the first part of your question around what our current view of that cadence looks like, I can provide a little bit of color. So again, at the end of the first quarter, we had 23 stores reopened as part of the pilot. All of those stores were here in Ohio, and all of those were off-mall locations. As a reminder, about 45% of the Bath & Body Works overall North American fleet does exist in off-mall centers. As of this morning, we have progressed from that 23 stores that we had reopened at the end of April to now 66 stores reopened, and we now have stores operating across 8 different states. And we have, over the last week, actually reopened our first 2 mall locations. And again, important to say that our #1 priority as we do that, is looking at how are they operating from a safety standpoint for both our associates and our customers. At this point, we believe that, barring any issues that would arise associated with that guiding principle, we should be able to ramp up the pace of our store reopenings here through the rest of May and into June. So that at this point, we believe we will have the majority of our stores reopened by the end of the quarter. That said, in the first quarter, roughly half of -- the stores were open for roughly half of the quarter. Depending on the pace at which we're able to reopen here through the second quarter in June and July specifically, some of which still depends on markets, large markets that are still close to us, for example, California, where we have over 150 stores at this point, the pace of that will determine how many stores we're able to have open for what amount of time. But our current models would assume more like 1/3 to 40% of total stores opened for the equivalent of the full quarter, if you will. Hopefully, that's helpful. In terms of performance, yes, you did hear me correctly. That, again, with all the caveats that need to go along with it, a very small sample size. Again, only 23 stores that were open at the end of the quarter. Stores only open in off-mall locations, which means oftentimes there are other mall locations in that same trade area that are not open. But yes, the stores that have reopened have been performing in line with the comp trend that we saw before we ended up having to close all stores on March 17. Hopefully, that's helpful.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Tiffany.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Oliver Chen with Cowen.
Oliver Chen:
We were curious about some of the frameworks around thinking about the VS closures and also the topic of rent expense and what's equitable with different alternatives or scenarios, just given the reality of sales productivity. Would also love your thoughts on co-tenancy and anchors, and what may happen as this unfolds.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. We'll go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, Oliver, it's obviously a very dynamic situation in terms of what's happening in mall-based retailing. And your -- this is your work, you understand the industry well. And we have important relationships with our landlords and developer partners. But with that said, we've got some serious discussions to have.
We -- our real estate function is led by an individual, Jamie Bersani, who is among the best in the business literally. And our business context is clear, which is we need to get relief in the form of rent reductions, rent abatements, other economic concessions. And Jamie will be appropriately working with our landlords and developers to achieve those results. And obviously, to the extent we can't make the unit economics work, then we have to close stores. And we're closing -- announcing a closure of 250 stores. So it's a complex, dynamic situation. But ultimately, it's got to make sense economically for us. And there's a lot of work to do, a lot of conversations to be had, and we'll take the appropriate actions. And this part of our business is led by Jamie and a team that are deeply experienced. They know what they're doing. And we're clear minded and aligned as a team about the situation that we're in at VS newco. Andrew, you may want to comment a little -- the circumstances are a little different at Bath & Body. But as an overall point, Oliver, and hopefully I'm being clear, that's where we are. And it is dynamic, but I'm comforted by the fact that we're really clear as a team about what needs to happen, and we're well led. And we start with constructive relationships with our landlord partners.
Andrew Meslow:
Yes. Thanks, Oliver. Thanks, Stuart. I would concur with everything that Stuart just said. I think, again, the 2 businesses are in a little bit of a different situation as it applies to the store strategy. And so while the guidance for Bath & Body Works does show a projection of closures, I believe, for the year of about 50 locations, that is more of a sense that, again, even though we are able to operate very effectively in off-mall locations, I think it's fair to assume that there will be some of the at-risk mall properties that may not come back to their pre-crisis levels of productivity.
And so even though while Bath & Body Works has traditionally been very successful at performing in all venues, whether those are A malls, off-malls, outlet malls or even struggling malls, we are recognizing that, again, the solvents or viability of some of those locations may be less post crisis. And so that's what you see in our forecast. But we still remain committed, as I mentioned earlier, to -- that our real estate remodel strategy, which has been very successful for the past 5 years, is something that we intend to go forward with as we move through the rest of this year and into the years ahead.
Oliver Chen:
Best regards.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Andrew. Thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research Associates.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Thank you, and good morning. Stuart, I wanted to just ask a quick question on Victoria's Secret real estate with 250 stores being closed. Is your assessment that, that is the full and complete downsizing necessary? Or are you considering another round as we go forward or in the scenario of business not rebounding at the levels that you might expect?
And for Andrew, I congratulate you on your business trends. And as you think about the antibac business, I am just wondering about the opportunity you see to grow that business and that category, which now represents maybe 14%, 15% of sales. Could it become a substantially larger part of the business? And maybe you could talk a little bit about how you can further expand that opportunity.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Janet, as I think I mentioned before, and it's okay because we want to make sure we're being clear, we would expect to have a meaningful number of additional store closures beyond the 250 that we're pursuing this year, meaning there will be more in 2021 and probably a bit more in 2022. Obviously, our ability to forecast that, we've got a point of view today, but that's dynamic. But in answer to your question, is it 250 and that's it? No, I would expect that there will be more.
And again, this is all about strengthening the foundation, having the right-sized store business, responding to the changing consumer behavior around digital and having a more balanced mix, might end up being about 50-50 balanced mix, between the digital channel and our business and the store-related channel. And it will be a healthier business, a better business. So that's our game plan. Thanks, Janet.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Andrew?
Andrew Meslow:
Janet, thanks for the question. So clearly, as we've talked about and as you shine light on, there is a big opportunity with the sanitizer business. I think one point of clarity would be that the sanitizer business, as a portion of the total soaps and sanitizer business that I referenced earlier which was -- that total was 14% of our business last year and is essentially doubling the sanitizer business, is the much smaller portion of that at about 20% of that total. It has obviously grown dramatically since then to the point where what was roughly $100 million business last year, probably could be, as we look out to this year and beyond, 2 to 3x of that size go forward. So a meaningful business, but certainly not anything approaching the majority of our business.
One of the ways we're looking to expand it is not only selling more of the business that we're in, which, for the most part, has been the small 1 ounce individual PocketBacs, as we call them. But we're also here, as we move through the second quarter, ramping up the availability of additional sanitizer forms and sizes. And we do believe that, that portion of the business especially will continue to grow rapidly. As again, sanitizer is now something that will likely be part of all of our daily routines for the months and years ahead. So a meaningful opportunity.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. So I think we have time for 2 more questions.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Carla Casella with JPMorgan.
Carla Casella:
My question relates to the split up of the 2 businesses. You mentioned that you expect you want Bath & Body Works to be the pure-play public company. Does that mean you'll need to relist it? Or would that remain the existing listing and then you just spin-off Victoria's Secret from that? And then where would the debt sit in that scenario?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Carla, it's Stuart. So in terms of the specific structure and form, those are things to be determined. Obviously, you know what our definitive agreement was with Sycamore as one way to accomplish a separation of the 2 businesses. And there was logic to that approach. And that particular approach will probably get heavy consideration as we move forward in terms of one way to structurally achieve what we've talked about.
But Carla, I'd be premature to get into the details of -- in the regard that you're asking about with respect to how we'll best affect a separation of the businesses. But I would take notice of the approach that we pursued. Because based on facts and circumstances then, obviously, we felt that, that was an appropriate approach. Obviously, that will all get reconsidered in a new context. The commitment is clear. But all that will get reconsidered with the right advice and obviously, under the direction and approval of the Board. So I think it'd be premature, Carla, to get into those details. We'll work to be thoughtful about all of it, as you would expect.
Carla Casella:
1
Okay. And can you just say how long that you expect that to take? Is it like a 6 to 12 months to get through all of those considerations? Or is that 3 to 6? Any kind of a ballpark?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, what I would focus on, Carla, is the 4 or 5 things that I mentioned operationally, okay? The closures of stores, the reorganization and downsizing of our home office overhead, the work that we have in the U.K. and China, the reopening of stores, all that work. So that work will be intense in the second quarter and as we begin the fall season.
But as we come out of that work and move through the fall season, that's when we'll be increasing our focus on the subject of how to best separate these businesses. So a specific time frame I want to be careful about, but I want to be crystal clear, the Board's been crystal clear itself and with management, which is the intention is very clear, we've got to get through these steps that I've mentioned and the work about how to best separate the businesses will intensify as we move through the fall season. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Carla.
Operator:
Our last question comes from Marni Shapiro with Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Hey, everybody. It's good to hear everyone's voice is healthy, and welcome, Andrew. Not exactly what you were expecting for your first earnings call, I suppose. I have 2 kind of logistical questions, one for Stuart and one for Andrew. Andrew, in the stores prior to the closure, I noticed a lot of people coming in to just wash their hands. So -- and there's a line for your sinks at times. So if you could just update us on what that will look like in your stores go forward?
And Stuart, at VS, could you talk a little bit about returns coming back from the online business, especially with the spike in April and how you plan to handle that? And also what the fitting room experience should look like because Victoria is a much more intimate experience, there's a lot of one-on-one conversation and contact, that's part of the whole experience, would you say, at Victoria's Secret?
Amie Preston:
Great. Well, let's start with Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Marni, thanks. And yes, you're right. This is a little different than I expected. In terms of your question around sinks, I might broaden it a little bit. There are many aspects of our store experience, sinks being one of them, open product testing being another piece that, clearly, we are having to operate very differently now in the store reopening pilot that we've done. And we're frankly trying to learn as we open more stores how to approach that go forward.
I don't have all the answers right now. Again, as I've mentioned, our first and really primary and only priority is safety. And so in many cases, like on the use of sinks and like on the use of open product testing, we have paused their use here during the store reopening pilots. But I am hopeful that as we move through the balance of the year and into next year that we do figure out appropriate ways to take advantage of those things because we do believe those are and should continue to be competitive advantages for us.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. With respect to merchandise returns in stores and the fitting room experience, the very just candid, straightforward answer is we're testing and learning. Our priorities are the same, as Andrew articulated, and would be the case, I think, for any retailer, which is, first and foremost, is how do we keep associates and customers safe. And with respect to the return of merchandise and the use of fitting rooms, we've got a lot to learn about that. And as we have that learning, we'll adjust.
But I'm not going to sit here and tell you that we've got that all figured out because the honest answer is we don't. We understand the importance of those things in the running of our business. And we'll be looking at a range of options as will others similarly situated in the industry, and we'll learn as we go. So we -- those are important subjects, we agree. And I would say that at this point, we're learning about how to best address those parts of the experience.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni. That concludes our call this morning. Thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands, and we hope you all stay safe and well. Thanks.
Operator:
Thank you for your participation in today's conference. Please disconnect at this time.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Amy, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Fourth Quarter 2019 Earnings Conference Call. Please be advised that today's conference is being recorded. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Amy. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' Fourth Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, February 1, 2020.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Our fourth quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are available on our website, lb.com. All of the results discussed in today's call are adjusted results and exclude the significant items described in our press release. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO, and I will handle the call today. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. I'd like to take a few minutes before we open up the call for your questions to highlight some key points related to the transformative transaction with Sycamore Partners that we announced last week.
As you know, last Thursday, we announced the sale of 55% of the Victoria's Secret Lingerie, Victoria's Secret Beauty and PINK global businesses, collectively Victoria's Secret, to Sycamore Partners for proceeds of approximately $525 million. The transaction is the result of a comprehensive review of a broad range of options undertaken by the Board, with input from outside financial advisers, designed to best position our brands for long-term success and to drive shareholder value. We believe this transaction will highlight the value and performance of the stand-alone Bath & Body Works business, enhance management focus and reduce structural complexity. Additionally, we believe that a private entity structure creates the best environment for a Victoria's Secret turnaround. While we recognize that Victoria's Secret's performance has deteriorated meaningfully over the last several years, the brand leads the lingerie category in North America and has high levels of global awareness. We believe that Sycamore, which has substantial experience in the retail industry, will bring a fresh perspective and greater focus to the business. We are pleased that by retaining a significant ownership stake, our shareholders will have the ability to meaningfully participate in the upside potential of this iconic brand. Andrew Meslow, former Chief Operating Officer of Bath & Body Works, has been promoted to Chief Executive Officer. He's been with the business for 15 years and has an exceptional understanding of the business and its customers. Nick Coe, previously Chief Executive Officer of Bath & Body Works, has been named Vice Chairman of Bath & Body Works Brand Strategy and New Ventures. In his new role, he will focus more intently on the strategic position of the business, the evolution of the brand, product development and new ventures and acquisitions. We are confident that this succession plan, which leverages the unique partnership established by Nick and Andrew to advance the long-term strategic direction of the brand, is the best arrangement for the business. Upon the close of the transaction, which is expected to occur in the second quarter, Les Wexner will step down as CEO and Chairman of L Brands to become Chairman Emeritus, remaining as a member of the Board. We intend to use the proceeds from the sale as well as approximately $500 million in excess balance sheet cash to reduce debt. There are also about $2.5 billion in balance sheet lease liabilities related to Victoria's Secret. After accounting for the expected debt and lease liability declines, on an adjusted debt to EBITDAR basis, we expect that our overall leverage ratio will be close to its current level. We know that you have many questions about what the new stand-alone Bath & Body Works business will look like from a financial perspective. In the investor presentation, which we made available with the transaction announcement, we have allocated our international business and Mast functions to Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works for the past 5 years. Over the next several months, we will be reviewing the functional and corporate support required for the stand-alone Bath & Body Works business with a view to simplifying our existing structure and recognizing that we will still be supporting the Victoria's Secret business through transition services agreements with various terms, which will minimize near-term dissynergies. The management team, in conjunction with our Board, will also be evaluating the capital structure and cash priorities for the stand-alone Bath & Body Works business. It is our intent when we have greater clarity on the above to conduct meetings with analysts and investors and provide the financial characteristics and growth plans for the stand-alone Bath & Body Works business. Thanks. And over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions]
And now I'll turn it back over to Amy.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
I was wondering, Stuart, if you could talk a little bit more about the rationale behind the Victoria's Secret spin-off. Was there a lot of interest in the brand? It's such an iconic asset, and it's just been such a big part of the LB franchise. And any thoughts -- maybe a little bit more detail or any further thoughts on how the structure of that brand could evolve in a private environment that obviously the public shareholders could still benefit from. Are there certain specific things you guys see in that business that will help it operate better in a more of a private environment?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks for the question, Omar. So there was significant interest in the brand for the reasons I think that you, Omar, and the capital markets and people generally understand. With that said, as you know, the results of the brand, including the financial results, have been challenged, and that pattern continued in 2019 and is projected to continue certainly for a portion of 2020. And so while an iconic brand with leading positions in key markets, financially -- as you know, as has been reported financially, the business has gone through a very challenging period financially, and again, that continued and accelerated in some regards in the fourth quarter.
And so management with advice from financial and legal advisers and heavy input from the Board as appropriate, a very substantial process was undertaken. And from that, got to the conclusions of a sale of a majority interest and certainly had interest from a number of parties, but through a process that you would understand would occur, got to the deal that we've disclosed with Sycamore. With respect to the potential of the business and how we thought about it, we felt strongly about retaining a stake. As you mentioned, this is an iconic brand with very strong positions. And with new leadership and new perspective coming from Sycamore who has a lot of experience in the retail sector, as you know, we believe that this business can be stabilized and turned around. And that significant value can be created and specifically for L Brands shareholders through that 45% retained stake. That's part of the sale of the majority interest. So a thorough process, thoughtful process, meaningful interest, retaining a stake to participate in upside. We have a history in our own past with respect to other transactions that we've entered into in the rationalization of our portfolio, whether it was Alliance Data Systems or Express or other businesses, the sourcing business for Mast, warrants that we had on Lerner, all kinds of different ways that we retained interest in businesses sold, majority interest sold. And in each of those cases, L Brands shareholders benefited from the value created, monetized through that retained interest. So it's a terrific business. We will be providing significant support to the business, as mentioned, through these transition service arrangements, doing so to try to minimize dissynergies that could otherwise occur if one rushed with respect to those things. So we think we've got a good form of transaction. We're energized about the future. We have some experience importantly with Sycamore, good experience with them as an organization. And so the combination of all those things, again, through a thorough process overseen by the Board has got us to this outcome. Thank you, Omar.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Regarding VS strategy, you previously identified bras and marketing as big priorities. Has the transaction changed the mindset or timing? And what are your thoughts with strategy around that as well as digital as you contemplate the priorities?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Oliver. In many respects, many of the elements of the strategies that we've talked about and the opportunities that we've talked about, I would expect, Oliver, will continue. And things as fundamental as the opportunities around marketing or the growth in the core category of bras for Victoria's Secret Lingerie or for that matter, PINK, those strategies will continue. I think in some respects, we might see differences in execution, if you will, in terms of how those opportunities are pursued. But as indicated, the transaction was signed -- the definitive agreements, I should say, were signed a week ago at 3:15 in the morning, and I happen to know that. And the time between signing and closing will be roundly 3 months, subject to regulatory approvals and other work.
And so in terms of specifically, what will change, obviously, the transaction needs to close. And the current leadership of the business will engage appropriately, and some of that's already begun with Sycamore as to a relaying of where the business is and what its best opportunities are. And from that, as we move through -- as the business, I should say, moves through 2020, a re-articulation of the strategy and changes that may come from new perspective will become apparent and evolve as the business moves through over the next 12 to 18 months. That would be my expectation -- our expectation. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was curious about how you're thinking about the growth of BBW for 2020. Will that come across all categories like we've been seeing? Or are you planning new products or categories? Maybe if you could talk a little bit about product strategy there as we look out this year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, what I would say generally, Susan, and this -- I'll go on to explain it more deeply. The strategy from a merchandising standpoint in the 3 major categories of the business has been working. And so it's the business' view that they'll continue that strategy, and that may not sound exciting or revolutionary, but the reality is that strategy has been working well. And with that said, there will be regular delivery of newness in the merchandise assortments, which has been the goal of the business over time and in most periods, delivered very effectively.
So from a merchandise category standpoint, no revolutionary change in 2020 because it's not needed. The business is running well. And again, with that said, I wouldn't want you to think that the business thinks about just selling the same thing day after day and month after month. There is a regular flow of newness in each of the major categories, and that will continue in 2020. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Susan.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Tiffany Kanaga with Deutsche Bank.
Tiffany Kanaga:
I know you're not providing 2020 guidance, but perhaps you could discuss the cadence this year for the pressures against Bath & Body Works' operating profit growth. At what pace do you anticipate these headwinds rolling off? And how are you thinking about the longer-term algorithm for growth?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, there's a lot in that question. But the business has the potential, and has delivered this pretty consistently, to deliver comps in the low to mid-single range in most periods of time, and to do that, managing margin rates and expenses with discipline and growing operating income dollars pretty effectively. That's been at the 9% to 10% CAGR range, both top line and operating income, over the last several years. The business has had a very strong run. We have reasons to believe that the business has a lot of future potential.
But in terms of financial planning, if you will, the business tends to think about those things with appropriate balance because it serves the business well in terms of the management of risks and investments and so on and so forth. And we believe that there's comp growth in the low single range. There's ongoing growth in the direct channel. That's growing at a very healthy rate. There's some growth potential in terms of number of stores but want to manage that carefully in terms of making sure that we're -- they're managing risk related to real estate in a thoughtful way we have been. You've heard a lot about the White Barn remodels. We have a lot of flexibility in our real estate plans. And importantly, the growth of -- I'll get into a subject that I know is out there a bit just while we have the opportunity. The growth in store count in 2020 is expected to be substantially all outside of enclosed shopping malls, and we have a lot of flexibility in that plan. So sales growth related to store count, comp growth, very strong growth, online are all drivers of growth. And again, managing the margin rates carefully and the expense structure carefully, and historically, that's resulted in a very strong overall financial result.
Amie Preston:
Tiffany, I'd just add that 2 of the most important investments that we're making in the Bath & Body Works business are for the White Barn store remodels, which are driving high returns and investing in additional fulfillment capability to support the growth of the direct business, which has also been growing at above 30% rate. So those investments will continue. Some of the sourcing pressure-related investments will moderate in the back half of the year as we start to lap the tariff implementations.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Tiffany.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Edward Yruma with KeyBanc Capital Markets.
Edward Yruma:
Just real specifically back to the BBW sourcing comment. Help us understand exactly what the impact will be from tariffs, I guess, in the first half. Are you seeing any other issues, I guess, with supply chain on the BBW side, maybe in the constituent components? And then finally, just kind of remind us how big of a business is the hand sanitizer business.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. Maybe we'll start with the last part of that first. The hand sanitizer business is about 5% of the total business. It is presently growing at a very high rate for reasons we would all understand.
With respect to tariff impact for BBW -- thank you. Yes. The impact in terms of year-on-year impact in 2020 will be a little more than $0.01 a share for the full year. So some pressure but not extraordinary pressure. And that'll moderate as we -- it's a little more weighted to spring than to fall. So some pressure on tariffs. And there is just generally inflation in the supply chain. Generally, there's inflation in most world economies and inflation in the supply chain. The business has been able to largely offset that. But there's -- to the extent that there's degradation in the merchandise margin rates at BBW, it's a function of the shift of business from -- or I should say, it's not really a shift, but the outpaced growth of direct. So direct growing at a very fast rate and a lower merchandise margin rate for that business, even though the bottom line is similar to the store's profit rate, but some channel mix effect related to direct and then some cost pressure impact, tariffs being one driver of it. And then consumers are strongly reacting to big days where there's a little bit of headline promotion, and the dollar results are very good. But the strength of consumer reaction on some of these big days has a little bit of pressure on the rate. So 3 drivers of a little bit of rate pressure in that business. But overall, still very healthy dollar growth, margin dollars and operating income dollars. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Stuart, you talked about the $2.5 billion of lease liabilities that's going with Victoria's Secret. Can you talk about any remaining lease liabilities to Victoria's that will remain on the LB or BBW balance sheet? And then now that the business is going to be smaller from a revenue perspective at least, should we think about potential changes to the dividend policy in terms of how big the dividend is versus what the new BBW/LB capital structure should take in?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Ike. So BBW/LB will have some contingent liability exposure related to Victoria's Secret store leases and some office leases. That exposure in terms of a gross exposure is roundly or roughly $400 million. The accounting literature requires us to book a liability that estimates the potential, what I'll call, net exposure related to that, and we'll go through a process to do the probabilities related to those, again, gross exposures. They run off over time as the leases run through their terms. But in a gross way related to the $2.5 billion, which is the liability that is coming off the LB books, we've got contingent exposure of about $400 million, and we'll have an accounting exercise to do or an economic exercise to do that is what do we think our net exposure is related to that gross liability.
With respect to, Ike, the dividend policy and capital structure planning for Bath & Body Works, frankly, we've just got work to do. We've just signed this deal last week. We'll be doing analysis. We'll get input from outside advisers. We'll have the appropriate conversations with the Board. And when we know more, we'll tell you. But the question is the right question. We need to take a look at it. We will take a look at it. And when we have something to report, we will. But it should get and it will get a fresh look, including a review and approval by the Board at the appropriate time. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Alex Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
You issued guidance for the first quarter inclusive of Victoria's Secret. And I wonder if we could spend a moment on that. Can you talk about what's embedded in your comp expectations for the consolidated comp down low single digits? What does that imply for BBW and VS specifically? And then also within that guide was a comment that BBW operating income would be flat to slightly up. Can you share the building blocks behind that expectation?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So on the comp guidance, Alex, with respect to the comp assumptions, within the total, it would be for the Bath & Body Works comp to be up mid-single digit and for the Victoria's comp to be up between mid- and -- or pardon me, down, pardon me, for the Victoria's Secret comp to be down between mid-single and high single-digit. With respect to Bath & Body's operating income assumptions, do you want to comment, Amie?
Amie Preston:
Sure. Yes. I think that's just a reflection, again, of some of the cost pressures we've talked about extensively here. And of course, we're not planning the business to continue at this double-digit comp rate to mean the business is going to work very hard to chase back into what's working and maximize their opportunities from a cost -- or from a comp perspective. But those cost pressures on what Stuart mentioned was a mid-single-digit rate in a lower-volume quarter, in the first quarter, will put some pressure on the operating income.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
And important to know, and you would appreciate this, Alex, I mean, management will be incented and is incented, including financially, to beat these numbers. That's what you would expect. And in fact, that's how it works. So we'll work hard to do better than this, but that's our current view.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Alex.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Alexandra Straton:
This is Alex Straton on for Kimberly Greenberger. I just wanted to touch on the international component of the Bath & Body Works business. Could you give us a sense of how large it is on a sales and stores basis and how you guys have been projecting that to grow maybe prior to the transaction announcement?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. In terms of its size, the operating income associated with it is about $30 million. I didn't bring all my detail on that international business. And it's growing at a very fast rate, number of doors -- somebody's got to hand me a piece of paper here so we can be responsive. Thank you. 200 -- about 200 -- ending the year with 266 stores. Retail sales approaching $400 million. Our revenue, round numbers, these are '19 numbers, a little more than $40 million because it's all franchise. And the operating income rate, extraordinarily high, almost 70%.
So again, I just rattled off a lot of stuff. About 260 doors ending the year, growing about 20%. Retail sales growing about 30%. Our revenue, as you would expect, growing about 30%, a royalty-based model. And a very high profit rate business, delivering operating income in '19 of, in round numbers, about $30 million. So it's a terrific business. We see a lot of additional potential growth in this business. It -- today, it's within that international segment. That's part of the LB reporting segments. And as we move forward, I think it'll be more apparent to folks what the value of this is to the business. But hopefully, the profile I've just shared dimensions that for you, and we see a lot of future growth here. Again, retail sales in 2019 grew 30%.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Alex.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I wanted to follow up on the BBW real estate plans. I guess a couple of components here. First, with the remodels, can you just remind us what you're seeing in terms of the lift in productivity there? And then I know you said there is a lot of flexibility. But in the investor presentation, it does look like you're planning a bit of an acceleration in the BBW square foot expansion this year. If you could just speak a bit to that. And just bigger picture, where you see the white space opportunities in North America, and ultimately, where that square footage number or store count can go.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So the lift that we see when we remodel a store to the -- what we refer to as the White Barn format, which is most typically the shop-in-shop format, is roughly 20%. And that lift sustains, meaning it's not a boom splat where you get it for a short period of time and then it reverts back to where it was before. It sustains in multiple years. We've analyzed the heck out of this, or I should say, the BBW team, along with the real estate team, both have analyzed the heck out of this, and that lift persists and gets to a good financial outcome and allows us -- has allowed us to remodel a very large portion of the fleet. So that would be the perspective on the remodels.
With respect to the new store activity, as I mentioned in an earlier comment, substantially, all the new stores are off-mall, not in enclosed shopping malls, in power strips with a very strong economic profile. We -- of course, you would expect that we look at cannibalization, and we do. But think of it as, as we close stores, we're closing stores in mid-tier or lower-tier malls. And then we're opening stores in power strips. Now about 45% -- a little more than 45% of the business' stores are not in enclosed shopping malls. So it's a sound approach and strategy. We've gotten more experience. You might ask, well, why the acceleration? It's because the ones that we have done in the last 12, 18, 24 months have performed so well that we're pursuing it with more intensity. And all that said, we got a lot of flexibility. So even in the 2020 plan that we shared, roundly, only about 25% of those leases are actually signed. So we've got a lot of flexibility should we see some dramatic change in the business. We're not expecting that, obviously. But should we see that, we've got a lot of flexibility. So we believe the real estate strategy is a good one, and it's further shifting the business to locations outside enclosed shopping malls. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mark.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kate Fitzsimons with RBC Capital Markets.
Kate Fitzsimons:
Stuart, could you just provide some greater detail about the nature of some of the dissynergies as well as some of the TSAs associated with this transaction? How should we think about maybe the shape and the time frame of them potentially offsetting the dissynergies here? I believe some of the TSAs go out about 5 years. So just some color there would be helpful.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
You're welcome. So the first thing I'd say is we're going to work like heck to minimize the dissynergies, which is what you would expect us to do. And so the areas of the business that have the longer terms in terms of the length or duration of TSA are those that have greater scale and/or complexity. And so the longest TSA and the one that's the most complex is the TSA related to technology.
And we'll work carefully in partnership with Sycamore on the Victoria's business to, over time, migrate systems and separate systems at logical points that minimize the economic cost. And so the specific amount of dissynergies is to be determined. But unlike perhaps some other transactions that we may have read about, we don't have to separate all these systems on day 1, nor is it our intention to do that. But in fact, what we're going to do is share many systems for a meaningful period of time. And again, at logical points of separation, we will separate the systems. And we believe from that, that we will incur less onetime cost and less dissynergy than we would expect or that we otherwise might incur. Apart from that, there are opportunities through a simpler go-forward business, the Bath & Body Works business specifically. The amount of corporate overhead and complexity will be substantially reduced. And so there are going to be some dissynergies related to the subjects that we talked about and offsetting that, and we'll work out the dollars as we learn more. And we've done some initial work on it but not yet ready for -- hadn't been finalized and more to do before we get more specific about it. But there will be opportunities to simplify this business from a multidivisional business now to a single business called Bath & Body Works. And from that, there will be opportunities to offset some dissynergies with reductions in corporate and other overheads. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kate.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of William Reuter with Bank of America.
William Reuter:
Just trying to work through the go-forward free cash flow. It seems like it should be relatively strong. Have you thought about what CapEx for the BBW business on a stand-alone basis might be?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. We've given some thought to it. In round numbers, I would say -- and this is driven by the investments in real estate, but in round numbers, I would say, between $300 million and $350 million. And again, that reflects the majority of that related to the remodeling of stores and the opening of new stores that we've talked about. We'll have more work to do on it, but we've done some initial work on it, and it's in that range.
And with that said, a lot of that is very flexible. And so on the real estate CapEx, we have an ability to make adjustments to that quickly. In our own history, back in the great recession of 2009, we took our CapEx from $500 million or $600 million run rate, this is for the whole LB company, down to about $200 million in the span of about 12 months. So if times get tough, we can hit the brake pretty hard. The profile for BBW will be lower, obviously, than the LB total. That's why you're asking about it. And again, ballpark number, $300 million to $350 million would be a good starting assumption.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Bill.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
Stuart, curious if you could maybe talk a little bit more about the international opportunity at Bath & Body Works, how fast you want to move and which countries might you be targeting. And even just higher level, is there anything that you feel like BBW was getting held back from doing as part of the combined entity with VS that now you'll be able to do better as a separate entity?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Paul. With respect to kind of the last part of that question first, the short answer, Paul, would be no. Do I think that Bath & Body works being part of L Brands has, in some way, restricted the pursuit of growth internationally? The answer is no. As you know that we're pursuing that on a franchise basis. It's not capital constrained. I think we have strong relationships with our franchise partners globally. It is a big opportunity for us. It's been broad-based. As we tighten up our communication about Bath & Body works over the next few months, we'll really hone in on that opportunity in framing that opportunity, Paul.
But again, for the last part of your question, I wouldn't say it's been constrained in any way because of the -- it's formed being part of L Brands, but it is a big opportunity. And frankly, we were -- if we go back 3 or 4 years, Paul, we've been surprised in a good way, a positive surprise about consumers' reaction to Bath & Body Works in different major regions of the world. But I think we owe the capital markets a fuller articulation of that opportunity, and that'll be part of our work over the next few months as we really expand and tighten up the communication of growth opportunities for Bath & Body. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
If I can just start, the direct business for BBW has been growing so strongly, as you said. So just wondering if you could talk about what investments you're making in omnichannel capabilities. And I know that you recently re-platformed the Victoria's Secret e-commerce business. And I'm wondering if things similar needs to be done at BBW or if you're happy with the tech underlying the e-commerce platform.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. The short answer is we're pretty happy with it. The most important thing to note about the direct business for Bath & Body, in my view, is that the front end -- the technology in the front end is outsourced. It's provided by a third party. And the fulfillment model, distribution and flow, is also outsourced. So it's more of a variable model, a capital-light model. We are making significant commitments with our partners on it. But we're -- on an overall basis, we're pretty pleased.
There are 2 initiatives that the business is pursuing. They're both in pilot stage. One is buy online, pick up in store. This is for Bath & Body in a pilot stage. And then the other is, for now, probably a couple of years in total, a lot of refinement given the importance of it, is a pilot that the business has pursued with respect to a loyalty program that is now in about 300 -- roundly 300 stores. And so in terms of initiatives, buy online, pick up in store, something in front of us and further refinement and then rollout of the loyalty pilot that's been going on now for probably 18, 24 months. But overall pleased, and again, an outsourced model.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jamie.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Adrienne Yih with Barclays.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
A couple of clarifying questions. Is the mid-single-digit BBW comp for the quarter, is that what you're running quarter-to-date, same thing for the Victoria's Secret side? And then what was the BBW segment free cash flow in 2019? And then my third kind of clarifying question, sorry, is I don't understand -- or maybe the trajectory of a mid-single-digit comp, you had some deleverage with some investments in Q1. How does that look past Q1? Do we start -- should we think about that mid-single digit being the breakeven comp?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So 3 questions. First is on comp results so far in February, we're not going to comment on that. I don't mean to be unhelpful, but we're comfortable with the guidance we've given and that's all I'll say about that. With respect to free cash flow, we've got more work to do, obviously, on the capital structure of the Bath & Body Works business, which we've mentioned. And I don't want to kind of shorthand that and give pieces of it without providing the whole picture. You know the profitability of the business. It was asked and answered about the CapEx, but we're doing more work on it.
And in terms of the overall cash flow characteristics of Bath & Body, they're terrific, obviously, by the way. But in terms of a full assessment of it, which, ultimately, I think, we'll get to the question of dividend policy, you appreciate that, that should be done in a comprehensive way, which we will do. And when we're ready to talk about it, we'll talk about it. So that would be my views on BBW free cash flow. And we'll get to it as soon as we can, but we want to do it thoughtfully. And you can appreciate, hopefully, we've been busy with some other things. And then thirdly, with respect to the mid-single-digit comp, getting to breakeven-ish -- or not a lot of growth, I should say, year-on-year growth, not breakeven, not a lot of year-on-year growth in operating income, Amie mentioned that it's a smaller quarter. And so as you think about leverage on fixed and variable costs, the result that you're asking about for Q1 doesn't translate through all the quarters just based on the relative size of the quarter. So that would be my additional view on your third question. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Adrienne.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Just 2 quick follow-ups. One, you mentioned the loyalty program pilot. I didn't realize it was already in 300 stores. I would love to get some feedback on how that is performing and how much more that customer involved in loyalty program is spending, how much more they're frequenting your stores. And then as it relates to technology investments overall, I'm just wondering if -- as a result of the separation, if you expect to accelerate investments in technology to further what is already very strong growth of BBW, particularly online, and where you see those opportunities aside from, for example, the BOPIS investment that you -- the pilot that you mentioned.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So with respect to the loyalty program we mentioned about, it's in just shy of 300 stores. The business is pleased with the overall results and is evaluating the rollout timing to the balance of the fleet. So that -- those would be the headlines. It is a points-based or rewards-based program based on her spending. It involves a mobile app and provides her, in addition to value of points in financial reward, it gives her the opportunity to participate in some exclusive events and new products and so on. So it's got some texture on it beyond just "a discount, if you will. So generally pleased with it and determining the best way to roll it out to more stores and ultimately, nationally.
With respect to tech investment, otherwise, in BBW, as I mentioned, a lot of the online platform for this business is outsourced. But to the extent that the company needs to invest in things like the buy online, pick up in store functionality, we won't be constrained there. We don't have a specific game plan there in terms of the CapEx profile of that given that we're just in what I'll call a manual test mode right now. But there is opportunity there as you would appreciate. And the business will have plenty of cash flow to invest in that as that opportunity reveals itself. And to some extent that we may do that working with our partners, meaning third parties, and some of that work we may do internally. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
For Bath & Body Works, could you talk a little bit about the difference in performance of enclosed mall stores versus strip centers? And then maybe some comments on the longevity and flexibility of the lease terms for both.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So the first thing is that our stores perform well in both in-malls and off-mall. So the first thing I'd want to register and register it clearly is they perform well in both types of venue. Apart from that -- or I should say, in addition to that, the conversion rates are extraordinarily high off-mall, which you would expect. It's more of a destination occasion. The good news about Bath & Body Works is based on its merchandise offering and the nature of the experience with customers, Bath & Body is a destination, both in-malls and off-malls, but the conversion rates are very high off-mall.
And lastly, occupancy costs as a percent of sales are lower off-mall than they are in enclosed shopping malls. So the off-mall format is very strong financially. But again, both types of store, if you will, are doing well, good growth, good profitability. The off-mall opportunity is a big one. And as you heard earlier, we're pursuing it aggressively. As a general matter, our lease terms are 10-year leases. As you know, we've talked about consistently in many of our stores based on -- these are in lower-tier malls. We have a lot of flexibility on month-to-month terms, and we get to that place just based on the strength of our business and the provisions in our leases related to occupancy levels and whether named tenants are doing business in those malls. So a lot of flexibility on -- in many situations. Generally, at 10-year lease terms. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Your final question comes from the line of Michael Binetti with Crédit Suisse.
Michael Binetti:
I guess, Stuart, since you mentioned earlier, to Ike's question, some of the Victoria's secret lease liabilities that will remain with LB after the transaction. Could you step back a minute, are there any other areas besides leases of liabilities that stay with LB? Just in case we missed anything. And then maybe even bigger picture, how would you frame the downside that LB retains with this deal versus how much opportunity L Brands has to participate in the upside if the results do turn a corner? The obvious math, you keep 45% of the business, but do you participate linearly in the upside if the EBIT turns?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So a lot in that question. A lot in that question. So our downside is limited for reasons you would understand. We have the exposure related to lease liabilities that's been asked about, and again, on a gross or aggregate basis, around $400 million. There are provisions on how much debt can be put on the business that -- on the VS business that were negotiated and agreed. So we've got, I think, good protection there in terms of how that might be managed.
With respect to capital contribution requirements, there are essentially none of significance. And there's a lot of upside in just doing the math of what this business could be worth. If we all thought about what this business was worth 5 or 6 years ago, and the capital markets were ascribing no value to it, if not negative value to it. And so it was important to us to retain a stake in that potential value creation, and at 45%, that's a meaningful stake. So there is some downside. We've framed it or bracketed it for you. And there's a heck of a lot of upside that potentially could be very, very significant. If you just went back and did math off of what the business had done at its peak, if you even took half of that in terms of its potential, the upside is very significant. But at this time, we felt it was important to have the value of Bath & Body Works realized in the marketplace, to have new input and ownership perspective through a private format. And we believe that those results have the potential to deliver a lot of value to shareholders. Arguably, they already have delivered value to shareholders if one looks at the share price move between early January and what has happened since then. So that's how we thought about it. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
And Michael, I just want to clarify one point. That $400 million does not necessarily stay on our balance sheet. That would be...
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. That's the gross number and we'll book an estimate of the portion of that we think could be a probability-based assessment of what our exposure is, so that $400 million is a gross number.
Amie Preston:
So that'll be...
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It won't be on the balance sheet. It'll be meaningfully less than that.
Amie Preston:
Yes. Great. Okay, guys. That concludes our call for today. Thank you for your continuing [indiscernible] L Brands. Thanks.
Operator:
Ladies and gentlemen, this concludes today's conference call. Thank you for participating. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Zetania, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Third Quarter 2019 Earnings Conference Call. [Operator Instructions] Thank you.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands Third Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, November 2, 2019. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Our third quarter earnings release, additional commentary and the earnings presentation are available on our website, lb.com. All of the results discussed in today's call are adjusted results and exclude the significant items, described in our press release.
Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO and I will handle the call today. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our third quarter earnings per share result of $0.02 was within our forecasted range of between a loss of $0.05 and earnings of $0.05. Bath & Body Works exceeded our expectations for the quarter and continues to deliver strong results, with a 9% comp increase and a 10% increase in operating income.
Outperformance at Bath & Body Works was offset by Victoria's Secret result that was at the low end of our expectations. Looking to the fourth quarter, we are forecasting earnings per share of about $2. New CEOs, John Mehas and Amy Hauk are very focused on getting close to our customers and making improvements to our merchandise assortments, marketing and customer experiences in stores and online. We have more work to do, and we recognize that it will take some time to see improvement in the business. Also, as mentioned earlier, we are up against aggressive promotions from last year and the time period between Thanksgiving and Christmas is 6 days shorter than last year. Therefore, our fourth quarter guidance assumes a Victoria's Secret merchandise margin dollar decline in the high single-digit range, which is consistent with our third quarter result. We expect continued strong performance from Bath & Body Works. We're very focused on executing a successful holiday. We will continue to rely on the strength of our agility, and we will continue to test pricing and promotion strategies, react to customer preferences. And Chase into proven product winners to drive results. Thanks, and over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. In the interest of time and consideration to others, please limit yourself to 1 question.
Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to the operator. Operator, we're ready to start questions. Sorry guys, bear with us here for a second.
Operator:
Your first question comes from the line of Sue Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I wanted to follow-up on PINK. It's nice to see the sequential improvement in the comp there. I was wondering if you could talk about the strong performance in intimates and how it outperformed so well versus VS intimates. And on the lounge side, it does sound like you're seeing some improvement in some products, how should we think about that for holiday, do you expect kind of more of the newness to flow in for holiday? Or should we think about spring is maybe increasing that better mix?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Susan. So in terms of the PINK results in intimates. Amy and her team have made product improvements and have also developed an assortment architecture that has very sharp price points that make the intimate offerings very accessible to the PINK consumer. So very strong unit growth results, a strong sales result. Again, a rebalancing of the mix there to really distort to sharp price points and highly accessible from a retail price positioning for intimates in PINK, and the consumer has reacted well to that. And it's driving a strong overall result.
With respect to improvements that the team is making in apparel and, particularly in the tops business, obviously, there are adjustments happening on an ongoing basis. There is some strength in the apparel assortment, as was called out in our pre-circulated remarks. The business will continue to advance the assortment in the fourth quarter. But as you recognize in your question, more to come in 2020, in terms of change in the assortment -- the apparel assortment to drive the results we're looking for there. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I also wanted to dig into VS for a moment. So there are some cross-currents on the merchandise margin line with AUR being planned up with lingerie, but down at PINK, given the different strategies there. To the extent that you hit your plans for each division. How should we think about kind of the net impact on merchandise margin in the near term?
And then kind of separately, you cautioned that VS lingerie is up against a heavier promotional period from last year. Just overall, how are you thinking about the balance of capturing your fair share of traffic during the competitive holiday period versus holding firm on the product and AUR elevation strategy?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So in terms of the AUR positioning for lingerie and for PINK, it starts with a point of view that John and Amy communicated back at the Analyst Day in September, which is the businesses are going after different target customers. That are in different stages of their life and otherwise just have some distinction. And so as a result of that, as you know, John is pursuing developing, pursuing offering more elevated products, more glamor, more fashion, a lot of emotional content. And over time, we expect that we'll get paid for that work through AUR and margin rates. Amy has, and team, have also done customer work, consumer work. And one of the things that they have assessed is that they really want to make sure that our offerings to that customer, again, a younger customer, that the offerings are highly accessible from a pricing standpoint. So there's a natural delineation in average unit retails.
As it relates to margin rate with the context I just provided and over time or as a target, we would expect that both of the businesses, including in the bra business should earn healthy margin rates, consistent with those strategies. And so again, over time, I don't start with a point of view that the margin rates would necessarily be different between the 2. Again, the price levels are different. But I'm not sure that the margin rates would be different. Second part of your question was about promotion and how will we manage through the holiday period, given the significant promotions from a year ago. Obviously, we're trying to get paid for our work to have an appropriate amount of promotion, but there are a couple of things that I would just reinforce. One is we need to -- and we will, hand inventories a clean position, so that we start 2020 in a healthy inventory standpoint, both financially and numerically, and also in terms of the freshness and the quality of the assortment that we carry over into the spring season. So ensuring that, that happens, depending upon how things go, obviously, will be an important input to the degree or level of promotion through the holiday period. The other is, as you recognize in your question, it's a key time for our consumers. We have a lot of traffic in our stores and online. And we'll be balancing promotional levels to drive volume, engagement with customers, profit -- again the management of inventory flow and sell downs. So we're not overly principled about it. We certainly are pursuing a strategy it paid for our work and to reduce the level of promotion, but it is dynamic. We do a lot of testing, as you're familiar with. And we'll try to strike the right balance considering the factors that I've mentioned. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Alex Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
I wanted to go back into VS lingerie, and talk about the pricing strategy there. So I think you've pulled back on promotions in the bras business and raised prices there. What's going on with panties apparel and other categories within that business?
And then maybe one quick follow-up on that inventory point, inventory is up on a per foot basis at both VS and BBW. I mean, is that what was planned? It seems like a high-growth rate, given the shorter holiday season.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So I'll start with the second part of your question first. Inventory is in line with our expectation. So to be clear, we are making important investments, particularly in the sleep and lounge category. In the Victoria's Secret Lingerie business. And also, there's some timing and investment related to the Bath & Body Works business that we believe is appropriate. So inventory is in line with our expectations and we're making deliberate investments, given that given the factors that I described.
With respect to pricing in panties and apparel for lingerie, John is also in those categories, given the quality of the brand and what we believe is our opportunity in offering differentiated merchandise that has significantly more emotional content. He's shifting the panty business to include a lot more single ticket panties that are matched back panties that come at higher average unit retails. And separately in the sleep and lounge business, a significant investment in the product in terms of quality of fabrics, hand feel, quality of fashion and design aesthetic. And going in we believe we'll get paid for that work. So certainly, a view, a strong view that there's an opportunity to elevate the product quality, the emotional content across all categories in Victoria's Secret Lingerie. And again, over time, I believe, we believe we'll get paid for that work. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
I'll just add, too, that in the third quarter, we did see strong growth in that single-ticket panty category, including things like the Brazilian panty, which is more of a higher fashion item. Thanks, Alex.
Operator:
Your next comes from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Looking at the full year guidance, I think you had been expecting comps to be up low single digits and now expecting flat to down slightly. Can you just talk about really what changed throughout the course of the third quarter to cause that adjustment in the guide?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, Victoria's was at the low end of our expectations, fundamentally. So we've got good results and strength and enter the fourth quarter with momentum in the Victoria's Secret beauty business. But both in lingerie and PINK at the lower end of a range of outcomes or expectations. And as a result, an adjustment to the fourth quarter and thus the full year.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Amie and Stuart, 2 questions, for you Stuart. Here's number one, on the dividend, could you just comment on your confidence and your ability to sustain the dividend payment, given the trajectory of the business? Just curious your thoughts there.
And then second, and again, I hate to bring this up, but I know you've said, and you've been very clear that you are looking at all options in regarding to the business and optionality that may exist with both concepts. But I guess my question is, the more BBW outperforms, and VS either underperforms, it comes in at the low end of your expectations, does that -- does that basically compel you to look at this potential optionality deeper? I'm just kind of curious how the thought process evolves, given what's going on in the business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So two different subjects, Ike, but one important aspect of both, and that is that those subjects are evaluated by the Board. So on the dividend, the Board regularly reviews our policy. And on a quarterly basis, approves the payment of our dividends. That would be my comment there. With respect to given the persistence of difference in performance between Bath & Body Works and Victoria's, does it give rise to questions like yours or the curiosity that you're expressing in your question, it does. You know that we have a long history of managing the portfolio of our businesses to drive value for shareholders, that history includes splits and spins and sales. The Board periodically evaluates those opportunities to increase shareholder value over time. And the Board does receive input from outside financial advisers with respect to those subjects. Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kate Fitzsimons with RBC Capital Markets.
Kate Fitzsimons:
My question is on BBW. Curious about that 5% store comp, there was a call out in the prepared commentary around strong response during some key days. Curious what the traffic was behind that 5% number? And also, if you can just speak to maybe monthly cadence or at least the consistency in traffic in the quarter? It just feels like across the industry, the highs get higher around some of these key days and the lows get lower. Just curious what you keep meeting around some of these bigger events to comp the comp?
And then secondly, Stuart, if you can just speak to the nature of the impairment that you took in the China business overall in the quarter, that would be helpful.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So in terms of -- if I've sift through your question -- if I missed something, come back at me. But with respect to traffic levels and comp at Bath & Body, what I would call their retail math, which is traffic, conversion, average unit retail growth, it's all healthy, it's relatively stable. Their traffic is up low single and their retail metrics are healthy across all meaningful periods of time. That would be my response to your first question around retail metrics for Bath & Body. Does that address your question?
Kate Fitzsimons:
Yes, it does.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. And then with respect to the impairment that we took in results have been challenged there as we've talked about. And we believe that based on historic results, our forecast, the passage of time, as required by the accounting standards, that it was appropriate based on a complicated set of analysis and judgment. That it was appropriate to take -- and necessary, I should say, to take an impairment charge related to many of our stores at full assortment stores in China.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
Stuart, can you just talk a little bit more on inventory? And specifically, I'm wondering, as the Victoria's Secret Lingerie business works to take AUR up and comp has come in lower and getting lower and maybe not surprisingly, given the decision to take AUR up and pull back on promotion, can you just talk about where inventory within that business is -- I understand that it's up for Victoria's Secret overall, but are you planning for those comps to be worse as AUR comes up? Or how are you thinking about that?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
We're not planning for comparable store sales to be down as AUR goes up, obviously, we're highly motivated to grow the top line in our business, add healthy margin rates to stabilize and then get the business back to where it has been and should be. So the strategy of finding the right pricing structure for the assortment, good, better, best, getting paid for our work. In the case of lingerie is expressed to earlier Q&A, AUR increases based on quality of product. That's all intended to have a healthy balance between units and pricing over time. But we certainly don't have a strategy to raise prices to drive sales declines. And I'm exaggerating a little bit and profit declines, it's intended to drive healthy top line growth over time and get paid for our work.
Jamie Merriman:
Sure. I guess, maybe a better question. Just are you expecting units to be down, as AUR comes up and are you planning to...
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, potentially in the short term. In the short term, but not on a long-term basis. But in the short term, will there be some volatility in units, and conversely, in the PINK business units are up dramatically with AURs down. So there are some significant shifts in the unit AUR architecture, one going lower AUR with substantial unit growth at PINK and the other with AUR increases, and that's why you're asking your question, what's our expectation on units. There will be some pressure on units, but again, our intent, in total, would be to drive revenue growth as a result of these strategies.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Regarding VS, would love your thoughts on the holiday season as we approach it, on this year versus last year? And any thoughts on segmentation and using your customer list in a more segmented manner just to drive traffic and balance healthy promotions. Also, there's been more talk about lower productivity malls and also underperformance and C&D locations at different retailers. What are your latest thoughts on the healthier store base and how you're evaluating that question you get so often?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So in terms of promotional approach, Oliver, segmentation, customer file. We engage with our customers in lots of ways -- lots of ways through e-mail, through direct traditional mail communication, through social media, et cetera. We certainly employ different views of segmentation in each of those and other contact strategies. So we have done that historically, we obviously work to get better at that over time.
In terms of our general views about promotion and promotion in key periods, I would say, apart from not anniversarying some very significant intimate apparel promotions or at least going in, not expecting to anniversary some of those. Otherwise, I would say, our promotional strategy is largely consistent with the prior year with some evolution to fewer, simpler, more impactful offers. So that would be, I guess, the main point that I would want to register on promotion. And obviously, we utilize various segmentation approaches in our contact strategies. With respect to the store base part of our business. It's a critical part of our business, obviously, as we've registered very consistently now for many years, and I think was remarked on in our pre-circulated commentary, we open a lot of stores every year and we close stores every year. And on a net basis, we have opened more stores than we've closed. And that is just the natural, proactive, healthy management of a multi-unit store base. We believe strongly in relevance and the opportunities associated with the store-based business. And at the same time, as you also know, this isn't either/or, we have a very significant online business at both Bath & Body Works and Victoria's Secret. So we're pursuing appropriate growth and customer experiences in both channels. We actively manage our real estate. The real estate outcomes are a function of overall business performance. So obviously, we've pulled back on investment in the Victoria's business over the last 2 or 3 years, given its overall performance. And conversely, we've increased our investment in Bath & Body over the last 5 or 6 years, given the quality of overall result and the specific results that we get from remodeling stores or opening new stores that include the White Barn shop-in-shop treatment or overt White Barn store design, as we refer to it. So it's dynamic, but overall, we're a strong believer in the store-based part of our business. We're making important investments in it, where there's a result, and we proactively manage it. Thank you.
Oliver Chen:
Okay. And lastly, if you could just help us understand what's next with digital or things we should focus on, whether that be the inventory management between channels or BOPIS, would love your thoughts?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure, yes. Thank you, Oliver. So as we've outlined, we completed in the spring season, a multiyear technology project to re-platform the victoriasecret.com website. It's up and running and supporting the business. That work continues to support international online business outside the United States. So work underway there that'll go live in the first half of 2020. As we've mentioned, a foundational capability that we're investing in to do things like buy online, pick up in stores, inventory accuracy, and we're getting after that. Through a project to have RFID information from our stores to ensure that we have appropriate visibility to inventory so that we don't disappoint customers with a misunderstanding of the specifics. We have broad assortments. And so we want to make sure that we have very accurate information such that we have the right foundation to do buy-online-pickup-in-store. I would expect that, Oliver, sometime over the next couple of years, depending on timing and priority. We recognize the opportunity that comes with it. I'm not sure we'll be evaluating as we close the year, start the next year as to whether we get after some of the -- in this next 12 months or whether it moves into 2021.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is on Victoria's Secret. It looks like there was sequential improvement in PINK with comps getting better relative to the second quarter. It seems like merchandise margin also got better relative to the second quarter. And the last piece is the tops business, it seems like that needs to turn. So I'm wondering if you can talk about Amy's strategies in tops. And with regard to the core lingerie business, it seems at least like the initial reception to the new strategic direction that John has laid out has not been received well. So I'm wondering if he is course-correcting, understanding that he hasn't affected the full assortment at this point. Just the sort of initial flows that came in, in the third quarter. It just -- it doesn't seem like the reception that has been favorable. So I'm wondering what sort of course- correcting measures he might be taking?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So on PINK, Kimberly, we recognized in the question, the progress made in the intimate apparel side of the business, bras and panties and the overall sequential trend improvement, still not where we want it to be. Margin dollars in the third quarter for PINK overall were down, but up in bras and panties, and down in the apparel categories, driven by tops, as mentioned.
In terms of what is Amy doing about that. She and her team are leveraging our testing and speed and agility capabilities to provide more new offerings to the consumer in that space. And also doing more work in sport and seamless and outfitting with respect to sport and seamless in that part of the apparel part of the business. So it's not just how do we go back and try to do what we've done historically better, but rather really mining for, including a real emphasis on sport and seamless, what is the new positioning for apparel and, particularly apparel tops in PINK, again, leveraging our design and fast supply chain capabilities that the business has. So a work in process, some signs of success, but the overall result, not what we want it to be in apparel, and it's a big part of the business, as you appreciate. So the team is very focused on it. But it's right to be curious about it, the team very, very focused on continued improvement in that part of the business. With respect to an assessment of Victoria's Secret Lingerie and the initial offerings of that John has introduced into the assortment, I really believe it's substantially too early to come to any conclusion on it, and I'll elaborate on that. There certainly are offerings that have been introduced into the assortment that have had strong positive customer response, meaning new stuff, customer bought a lot of it, indication that glamor and elevation and product at higher price points, when executed well, get a strong customer response. Examples of that, more specifically, would include the match-back panty categories that come at substantially higher AURs, and that have a real fashion content to them along with sexy sleep and lounge offerings that have gotten a strong customer response. All that said, Kimberly, the progress, since why you're asking your question, the progress made those examples being provided has not been sufficient to overcome the year-on-year declines in other very significant categories within the intimate apparel and sleep and loungewear businesses. So we're very clear minded about where we are on an overall basis, with a lot more work to do. John is working smart and very hard building a new team, focused on improving execution in stores and online, along with some evolution on the marketing of the business. And there are signs of progress, for sure. But as again, commented on in our pre-released information, lapping a lot of promotion. And some weakness in legacy core frames that are big books of business. And what's happening there, as you would expect us to be doing is a lot of development work where we think we will have significant relaunch activity in 2020 in some of those early 2020 in some of those core frames that are big books of business that have meaningful year-on-year declines that we're not able to overcome with the progress we're seeing in some of the new items introduced. So that would be my overview of it. This is a business that's had challenges, lingerie, now for 3 or 4 years. And it's going to take some time to stabilize it and get it back to where it should be. I absolutely believe John and his team are working on the right stuff, signs of progress, but it's going to take some time. And all that said, shouldn't be interpreted as any sense of complacency or we'll get to it when we get to it, the team couldn't be working harder and with more energy to get the results that we're all looking for.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Carla Casella with JPMorgan.
Carla Casella:
My question is on two things. The La Senza charge, or payment for this quarter on the guarantees, is there any residual guarantee on La Senza or future cash flows out for that? And then just your comfort level with leverage, target leverage? And if the rating agencies are looking at it anywhere different? And does that BB rating matter to you?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks, Carla. So on the La Senza charge, it's a noncash charge related to potential, and I emphasize potential liability that we may have with respect to leases and some credit support that we provided in connection with the transition of sourcing to a third party. So it's a booking of a noncash reserve for potential cash exposure that we may have in future periods. Related to, again, leases and credit support associated with sourcing. So that's what that is about.
With respect to, Carla, our leverage and credit ratings, as we announced a year ago. The company is taking steps to reduce its leverage. We made a bit of progress in terms of debt reduction this year. And those steps include reductions of capital expenditures. We made a change in the dividend announced a year ago, taking effect in January that freed up a bit more than $300 million. So management with the board will continue to evaluate those things. The most important aspect of any of that is improving the cash flow of the business, which is associated with, as you appreciate, the operating improvements that we're pursuing in lingerie and PINK particularly. But at the end of the day, we have -- we expect to end the year with about $1.4 billion of cash. We generate significant free cash flow. Our debt maturity profile is healthy and well spaced out. And so those are all aspects of our capital structure that certainly we consider and any outside party would naturally consider.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Marni Shapiro with The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
I'm curious on Victoria's Secret, just on the marketing side, as you enter the holiday season, nobody's, we haven't really talked about the fact that over the last many years, you've had a fashion show driving a lot of impressions. And yes, and some -- sometimes some controversy, but a lot of impressions, a lot of marketing on television through the holidays season. Have you contemplated how that would impact the just the brand itself, you've been very quiet, Victoria's Secret, over the last as you're transitioning over the last couple of months. And as you come into the holidays season, it's still been kind of quiet, but in the holidays season, you're going up against years of fashion shows. Could you talk a little bit about your thoughts there?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, we have certainly thought about it as communicated previously, we think it's important to evolve the marketing of Victoria's Secret. That is happening. In certain respects now. And I think there will be more to come as that continues to get evaluated. Again, we believe the most important thing is the quality of the merchandise itself, the quality of our execution in selling in stores and online, but, Marni, we recognize and appreciate that the communication of the brand, the offerings, the emotional content of Victoria's Secret is obviously an important thing. And I expect that we'll have evolution of those things. Certainly, as we move through the next 6, 12 months. And John focused on those things.
In terms of -- in a granular way, specifically as timing over the years shifted in terms of the airing of the fashion show, did we see specific material impact on short-term sales response to the airing of the fashion show, as a general matter, the answer to that question is no. So if you're like, oh my God, Stuart, you freaked out about the day after the fashion show result and what's going to happen based on -- it did air at different times over the years, and we didn't see a material impact on the next few days results. With that said, it was a very important part of the brand building of this business and was an important aspect of the brand and a remarkable marketing achievement. And with that said, we're figuring out how to advance the positioning of the brand and best communicate that to customers, and that's among the things that John is focused on.
Marni Shapiro:
But nothing for this holiday season, is that right?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Nothing -- not -- we'll be communicating to customers, but nothing that I would say is similar in magnitude to the fashion show, but you can be sure, we'll be communicating with customers, through lots of vehicles, including social media and various more current platforms, if you will.
Marni Shapiro:
Are the mailings up this year to last year, last thing?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Generally consistent.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Curious on Bath & Body Works, can you give a sense of magnitude of the merch margin and overall gross margin decline this quarter versus the SG&A leverage just in terms of basis points? And how should we think about the leverage point for occupancy and SG&A in that business in the fourth quarter. And into F '20. And then just one clarification, Stuart, was the charge this quarter, all related to China. I just want to understand, which assets did you take the impairment charge on and if that impacts your depreciation going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So well, Paul, so your first question is, again, about margin, there's a lot there, and we'll get to all of it. So your first question was about merchandise margin rates for Bath & Body in the third quarter, is that -- is that what your question was?
Paul Lejuez:
No, just the merch margin versus SG&A in terms of basis points, what were the drivers to the overall change in BBW's EBIT margin?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. The first thing I would say, Paul, and again, it may seem my pabulum, but I think it's important because it's really important, is an operating income rate for Bath & Body Works. In the low 20s. We believe, Nick, believes, that the business believes is appropriate. And the business has consistently delivered very healthy top line growth and very healthy bottom line growth with a little bit of deleverage in the rate over the last few years, largely reflecting the impact on depreciation and occupancy of the White Barn remodel program that we believe is a very positive thing for the business. So that's the overarching point.
With respect to movement in the merchandise margin rate, 3 or 4 things to know. There is some inflation in the supply chain. There is some impact of tariffs. There is some impact of channel shift given the outpacing growth is very dramatic and healthy, frankly, remarkable growth. In the direct side of that business, where the merchandise margin rate profile is a little different than the store profile. Again, that channel very profitable at the bottom line, but the geography of rate different. So that puts a little pressure on things. And promotion is up slightly and largely due to consumers responding in a very significant way when the business does offer promotion versus the business offering a lot more promotion in terms of days or depth. So that really is, Paul, the big picture on the margin architecture for Bath & Body, and that's how we think about it, and that's certainly what we would hope investors would appreciate and understand. And then separately, on the management of expenses, the team, Nick, Andrew Meslow, the management team at Bath & Body is, frankly, extraordinary at balancing expense management in the business. So investing in things where it makes sense and being tough-minded and disciplined where it doesn't. So not just cutting hours and having bad customer experience is that -- the business offers terrific experiences for consumers. The business invest in product quality, et cetera. So the expense management in the business, the inventory discipline in the business is very, very strong, and those capabilities, that mindset, that stability in that management team is really what drives the overall result. With respect to the impairment and what geographies were included in the impairment, China was the greatest amount of impairment. But there was also, Paul, impairment, we impaired stores, and there was a charge associated with the U.K. and Ireland. And a little -- and some in the United States as well. But China was the biggest component, followed by the U.K. and Ireland, and then a little bit more in the United States beyond the impairments we took a year ago. Oh, and to answer your question, does it save depreciation? Yes, it does. And that's not -- some people think that's why you take impairments. That's it's actually a required accounting evaluation, so it's not to save depreciation, but in fact, it does have the result of reducing depreciation in forward periods. Obviously, Paul, part of the China evaluation relates to our business in Hong Kong, so unique circumstances there, as you would appreciate.
Operator:
Your final question comes from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Tiffany Kanaga:
This is Tiffany Kanaga on for Paul. You've touched on it, but would you discuss the pricing architecture rebalancing at PINK in more detail. In terms of who specifically that customer is that the lower price points is attracting, where you believe she might have been shopping previously for that product as well as how you're thinking longer-term about the potential for moving her up to higher price points and building out her basket?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, we spend a lot of time with our target consumers, Amy and team, including in her environments on campus. We leveraged the Campus Rep, campus representative program, which is significant. And frankly, and I don't mean to give you a vague or general answer to a question, it's the fundamental answer to the question. Like any good retailer would do, we think about it as good, better, and best. A pricing pyramid, an assortment architecture that includes a range of price points in the assortment in major categories, good, better, and best and the business will continue to balance its offerings, it's result, it's communication using that foundational aspect of any good retailer, and I don't mean to suggest in saying it that way that we always get it exactly right. Obviously, there are times where we execute against that better than others.
But it really comes back to strong engagement with the consumer, good thinking from a merchandising standpoint around good, better and best, and then leveraging a speed mindset and a supply chain capability in terms of sourcing relationships and transportation and flow that allows us to make adjustments pretty quickly along those lines. So that's how we think about them.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, everyone. Thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands. And we hope you all have a happy Thanksgiving.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Heidi, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2019 Earnings Conference Call. [Operator Instructions]
Thank you. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Heidi. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' second quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, August 3, 2019.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings and in our press releases. Our second quarter earnings release, additional commentary and our earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. All of the results discussed in today's call are adjusted results and exclude the significant item described in our press release. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO, and I will handle the call today. Thanks, and now I'll turn it over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our second quarter earnings per share result of $0.24 was above our initial guidance of $0.15 to $0.20 with upside driven by favorability in income taxes. Bath & Body Works continues to deliver strong results with an 8% comp increase and a 7% increase in operating income. The operating income increased at Bath & Body Works and improvement in the international business and in the other segment as a result of the sale of La Senza and the closure of Henri Bendel was offset by a decline at Victoria's Secret.
Looking to the second half of the year. Our #1 priority continues to be improving performance at Victoria's Secret. As we noted in the commentary that we released last night, John Mehas and Amy Hauk, CEOs at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK, respectively, have made significant changes to our fall assortments. The significant amount of change in our fall merchandise assortments and promotional plans as well as the current trade environment and tariff uncertainty inherently result in a greater level of uncertainty in forecasting our results for the third and fourth quarters than is typical. That said, we believe the customers will react positively to our new merchandise. And therefore, as we said consistently, we have assumed in our guidance that Victoria's Secret trends will improve versus recent performance and that Bath & Body Works will continue to deliver strong results. You'll hear more from John and Amy as well as other business leaders at our Investor Day, which is scheduled for September 10. Thanks, and over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Heidi.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] And your first question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is on the VS Lingerie business. I think you said initial indications in the first part of August have been favorable. I just am curious what you mean by that. And do you think that the lingerie piece, the new fall assortment is enough to replace the lost volume in core bras? I'm just wondering, if we don't see an improvement from the first 2.5 weeks of August, it sounds like Victoria's Secret will not be on track to deliver the expected third quarter numbers. So I'm just trying to understand what the puts and takes are.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Kimberly. So as it relates to the new lingerie assortment, modern lingerie, as we refer to it, and initial results as we provided commentary in our pre-released remarks, the consumer reaction, Kimberly, to the new assortment and the new items in the assortment has been favorable and positive and consumers reacting well.
But as you point out in your question, and it -- and all I can report to you is what we've observed so far and how things will progress as we see it based on what we believe for fall, the reaction to the new stuff has been very good. With that said, it hasn't been to date sufficient to overcome weakness in the balance of the lingerie assortment, including the effect of heavy promotions from a year ago that will continue through the fall season. Importantly, there will be additional new merchandise flowing through the fall season. So the full fall assortment was not in stores in the first few weeks of August, so we are reading a partial result. Additionally, we are very optimistic about our offering and the potential for growth in the sleep and lounge business that, as you appreciate, SKUs in terms of its proportion to the total to a greater percentage of that total as we move through the fall season, given its giftability and just general seasonality for sleep and lounge, we've got more work that we're doing on marketing. And we believe that our marketing effectiveness will improve as we move through the fall season. So qualitatively, that would be the additional perspective that we have in answer to your question. So consumer reaction, again, strong and favorable to the new offerings yet not sufficient to deliver an overall result that changes the trend so far, more new merchandise flowing through the balance of fall and a lot of work going on in marketing to more effectively market the changes and drive traffic in the stores. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
Stuart, can you just maybe talk about how swim performed during the spring season as a whole now that you kind of brought that category back to some extent? Any update on what that category might look like in spring of '20?
And then just go back to Victoria's Secret for a second. I just want to understand a little bit about the inventory pickup on Victoria's Secret. Where are you investing? And I just want to tie that back to -- I believe you said you've got some hopes to be less promotional in some of the prepared materials that were sent around. Just maybe square that away for us.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So Paul, as you're asking about, we've reentered the swim business this year. We made that decision relatively late in 2018 into early 2019. So our reentry into that business happened in the latter part of March, as I recall it. So we missed a little bit of the natural season for swim. It generated, in round numbers, about $30 million of volume, $40 million of volume versus what it had been in the past. We do believe that there is substantial additional growth opportunity in swim. Our focus, as we've conveyed previously, is to pursue that business online and generally with a more elevated assortment than what we had offered in the past. And consumer reaction to that, while there was a little bit of commentary out there about price points, overall, the reaction to what we put in front of customers was positive. So it was a good start particularly given the timing of our decision. There is meaningful additional growth opportunity in that category. Again, I'm repeating, but I'm trying to make sure I'm being clear. We intend to pursue that at this time online and not in stores.
With respect to lingerie inventory, the first thing, Paul, I'd want to register, and you know this having followed us for a long, long time, is that we're working very hard to maintain a lot -- as much flexibility as possible, particularly for the fourth quarter, and through our focus on reducing lead times and ordering frequently and adjusting regularly. John Mehas and his team are working the assortment literally almost every week in terms of adjusting the on-order. We are making important investments in the new parts of the assortment. And with that said, we've got a lot of flexibility in particular for the fourth quarter to read and react to the overall trend and to adjust the on-order obviously to maximize our chase and pursuit of the items that are doing best and to cancel or adjust out of items that aren't doing as well. So we're making important investments. Again, optimistic in terms of the reaction to the new offering certainly in total, and we got a lot of flexibility. Was there a third part to Paul's question?
Amie Preston:
That was it.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
You good, Paul?
Paul Lejuez:
Yes, sir.
Amie Preston:
All right. Thanks, Paul.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Alex Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
I wanted to pick up on some comments you made in response to a prior question on marketing. You mentioned in the prepared materials that marketing at the Victoria's Secret business was down year-over-year. Could you give us a sense of where marketing is as a percentage of sales in that business? And then you also talked to some changes planned for the back half of the year. Can you talk a little bit more about what you mean by that? Is it an increase in the level of marketing? Is there any change planned to the tone or nature of the marketing message?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
As to the numerical question, in a rough round sense, Victoria's marketing as a percent of its sales is about 5% historically. And that's an all-in definition, including GWPs and all forms of marketing. The most important thing I would want to register about marketing, and we've been pretty consistent in this mindset now for as long as maybe 12 months, certainly 6 to 9 months, is that everything is on the table. And what's meant by that is we're taking a fresh hard look at almost every material aspect of our business.
And the reason you're asking about marketing for Victoria's is it's an important part of that business. So in terms of the messaging, the imagery, the photography, the words, the pricing, promotional aspects of it, the medium of communication, the integration of marketing between stores and digital and social channels, John is getting more and more involved in it. He spent his initial focus on the merchandise because that is the longest lead-time item in the business, and he's done substantial work in that space, frankly, extraordinary amounts of work in terms of change in a short period of time since he joined us. And he's now shifting his time -- not to the exclusion of merchandising. That's a core ongoing responsibility obviously, but he's getting more and more involved in marketing. You've read that we've had changes in senior leadership in marketing. And I expect that there will be meaningful and hopefully thoughtful change in our marketing approach as we move through fall and into 2020. John will comment further on that, I would expect, when we're together in September.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Alex.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I wanted to ask about BBW. Just first, with the 4% store comp, can you give us a sense of how the -- what the traffic footfalls are that you're seeing? And what is the back half outlook for BBW and bed from a traffic perspective? Then more broadly, with the remodel program, I think 840 stores in the new concept are planned by year-end. Can you give us a sense for what percent of those you would say are in A malls or off-mall locations? And then looking forward, given the continued pressure on mall traffic, has the number of BBW stores that would meet an ROI threshold changed much just with respect to the remodel? Just wondering how that refresh program evolved as we look to the second half of the fleet.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So a number of questions in there. If I didn't catch them all, Amie'll remind me of what I missed. So in terms of the traffic at Bath & Body Works in the second quarter, it was about flat, store-level traffic flat year-on-year. And the growth in the business came through transaction increases driven by conversion.
With respect to the refresh program, as we've commented on consistently and updated in our script, we're very pleased with the results of it. The refresh activity has not been limited to A malls but has also happened in other mall tiers. We are seeing strong results in almost every situation. Whether it's an A or a B mall or a C mall or an outlet center, we're seeing strong results broad-based, very, very few exceptions to that. And we'll keep pursuing the program. Obviously, as we move down into the fleet, we'll continue to watch the ROIs. But again, they've been good so far, and we're very optimistic about continuing to pursue this program over the next several years. With respect to the ROI on the program and just the unit-level economics for Bath & Body Works, frankly, they're just outstanding. They're very solid. That said, as you can see in our information that we share externally, the fleet is actively managed. So even at Bath & Body Works, we close a few stores every year, and we're also opening stores as well. We're expanding square footage modestly or, I think, carefully. But the fleet is in great shape. And the most important thing about that remodel program is, in addition to the financial profile almost immediately being strong, it really sets the business up very well for the next 7 to 10 years with a very current store design that consumers respond well to. So we won't be in what some retailers can get into, which is a kind of a deferred CapEx situation. So it's a very good outcome for the business.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Mark, did we get everything there?
Mark Altschwager:
I think you did.
Amie Preston:
All right. Great.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I wanted to follow up on the strategy at PINK to rebalance the good, better, best. Can you just talk a little bit about the go-forward implications on sales and margin that you expect from the strategy?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. We're trying to have good balance among price tiers. As in any business, you've got to balance unit volume growth and transaction volume growth with pricing. As Amy came into the business, and she will comment on this further when we're together in September, she assessed a lot of things, as you would expect that she would. And based on that assessment, she believed that there was opportunity to drive engagement in terms of transactions and unit volume in lower price points. She's been careful to not go -- working hard to -- not to go ditch to ditch on that. But she's just trying to make sure that she's got what we would call a balanced assortment pyramid or assortment architecture between good, better and best and felt that the business had gotten a little tilted towards higher price points. So she's made adjustments there, including in areas like the bra business where she's delivering a lot of volume growth and getting to a margin profile now that's starting to look very solid. So that's the mindset.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Amie and Stuart, 2 quick ones. On the marketing, I know you can't go into it much now, and hopefully, we'll hear more at the Analyst Day. But I guess the quick question is, will there be a time to change the marketing message in a meaningful way ahead of holiday, meaning should there be some benefits or potential impacts on your Q4 performance at VS from -- by changing the marketing strategy? And then on the international business, it sounds like -- based on the commentary that the operating losses in China are getting a little bit better. Can you kind of give us an update on where we stand from an operating income or loss perspective in China and what the thought process is into next year and beyond in terms of when that business could potentially turn a profit?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Ike, on the first question with respect to is there the opportunity to make meaningful change in the marketing approach and message for the fourth quarter, I believe that there is. John is engaged in it. The -- while marketing is complex and needs to be migrated in a careful way, the inherent lead times, as I've commented on earlier, not nearly as long as will be the case to design and develop and have manufactured new product into the assortment. So simple answer to your question, is there an opportunity to make meaningful change in our marketing message and approach for the fourth quarter, the answer is yes.
With respect to China, it's a multiyear situation, Ike. We do have some flagship stores there that play an important role in marketing the business, but they are generating some losses. And I -- our view at this point would be it's a 3- or 4-year journey in China to get to the -- to a profit profile in that business, 3- or 4-year journey.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question is from Susan Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering if you could maybe give us an update, from what you're doing on a digital perspective, it looks like online continues to outperform stores. So maybe if you could provide some color on what you're doing from a technology perspective to continue to drive that online business and improve the omnichannel aspect for VS and PINK mainly?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Susan. So I think as you would know, but it's important just to reiterate, the most important thing we've done in the digital business is a project that we went live with in the last few months, which was a replatforming -- a full replatforming of victoriassecret.com. It had been running on systems and hardware that were more than 25 years old. And it served that legacy system, homegrown system, by the way, served the business very, very well for a long time. But it was time to upgrade that platform, which is a big deal obviously in terms of getting that right and doing it well. And again, the business -- the domestic business has been running on that new platform now for a couple of months. So that's the most important thing. It will enable us to pursue a number of customer-facing benefits that we're now moving forward to. And those would be things like buy online, pick up in store.
Another foundational element that we're working on now before we roll with buy online, pickup in store and other similar things is we want to make sure that we have appropriate accuracy in our inventory. And obviously, we have that for financial statement purposes, but I'm talking about at the item level at a specific location on a particular day. And with a very broad assortment, with so many choices in the broad business, particularly at Victoria's, that inventory accuracy is critical, which is why we're in 2019 pursuing on RFID initiative and rolling out an RFID initiative for Victoria's Secret. So with the foundation of the new domestic -- what we call the domestic order management system and accurate inventories that are sufficient to make reasonable promises to customers, we will be able to do a lot of things that many other retailers can do today. One of the other things that the new system allows us to do is to have a broader distribution network for Victoria's in the United States, which will allow us to add capacity and have more flexibility with capacity. So that's another benefit that we're getting now. So that's the biggest thing that -- those are the biggest things, I should say, that we've been working on. Bath & Body, as you know, it wasn't implicit in your question, has a terrific online business in addition to Victoria's growing at a very healthy rate. And they're regularly looking at ways to upgrade the customer experience in that part of the business as well. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Susan.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of William Reuter with Bank of America.
William Reuter:
I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about the List 4 tariffs at 10%. I think most of your products were included on List 4A, but what the impacts of these would be on a dollar basis for 2019 or how we should think about it on an annual basis going forward.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So the List 4 effect is included in our guidance. We considered it in our guidance. We are working to offset some of that impact through various migration of production to different countries and discussions with our supplier partners. We haven't given out a number, but again, it's included in our guidance.
Importantly, its materiality -- this situation's materiality to our company is not as great as many other retailers. The United States is our #1 country of production given the importance of personal care and beauty in our business. And our -- in terms of our total sourcing activity, China represents less than 20% of our total sourcing activity and has moved down almost 10 percentage points over the last 3 or 4 years based on very deliberate efforts by the sourcing and production teams in our business to make sure that we have a -- continue to have a well-diversified base of supply. So we've got it covered in the guidance and, again, importantly, not as material to us as it is to many other retailers. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Bill.
Operator:
Your next question is from Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question's on BBW. It's been a healthy and consistent source of comp and operating income growth for you. I'm just wondering, from a rate perspective, how you think about BBW over the next few years as you think about the various puts and takes to the business, whether it's the impact of supply chain and sourcing costs, a shift to direct, which is growing at a very healthy rate but then, on the flip side, the benefits from scale and expense leverage that you may be getting.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So understand the importance of your question, but as you would imagine, the first thing that we're focused on is dollar growth. As we say around here, "You take dollars to the bank. You don't take percentages to the bank." With that said, your question is a serious question. And Bath & Body has demonstrated over a very long period of time to -- its ability to effectively balance dollar growth and long-term health of the business with profit rate.
All that said, do I see that there's a little bit of downside risk to the business or downside pressure to the business due to the factors that you mentioned? There is some. But again, we believe that the growth potential on that business remains very high. And its ability to deliver very healthy growth in profit dollars, EBIT or operating income dollars, we're very confident in its ability to do that given the categories it's in, the very strong and capable leadership team that runs that business, the assets that it has, including very strong store design; compelling merchandise assortments; short lead times; highly capable, highly enthused, dedicated, loyal selling force in stores; a very strong online business, just a lot of assets that, that business has. So is there a little bit of downside on the rate? Yes. Is there lots of opportunity on dollar growth? Absolutely. And I think the business has well demonstrated that or demonstrated that well for a long, long period of time. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Your next question is from Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about Victoria's Secret Beauty, any more color in terms of what you're seeing there, what happened with the July launch and what you're seeing in the emerging businesses of PINK beauty? And then on the breakdown of CapEx, I believe the store investments is going to 55% of CapEx from 75%. How do you see that moving forward in the business? And is technology investment or direct investment making up what's being removed from store investment?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Dana. So Victoria's Secret Beauty remains a very good business. As you know, Dana, they're in the fine fragrance business, as we would refer to it, and then they got a significant fragrance mist business. Over the last year, 1.5 years, as a general point, they've had very strong results in the mist business. And just -- I'm again speaking about the last year, 1.5 years, and okay results in the fine fragrance business.
As we -- with that said, as we look at very recent results -- and they just had their most successful, what they would call, sister launch in fine fragrance over the last few weeks. So Greg and his team recognize the opportunity in the fine fragrance business. As -- you've followed us a long time. As you know, they've got 3 or 4 of the top 20 fine fragrances literally in the industry, which is a terrific place to be. In addition to continued work on the assortment itself, Greg is very focused and team very focused on improving the selling within our stores. And so we've got a number of things going on that we think will move the business in a favorable way and should represent a lot of upside in what is already a very sound business. With respect to the CapEx, you recognize that in the formation of your question, we have pulled back on CapEx for -- store-related CapEx, real estate-related CapEx for Victoria's Secret and international. And as was mentioned in an earlier question, we continue to invest in technology particularly pointed towards the online or digital part of our business. And we are also investing some in distribution and fulfillment assets as well. And so that's tilting the mix a bit from what it had typically been, again, representing some pullback in store-related driven by Victoria's and international just based on current trend, results, performance. But we're trying to maintain, if not increase, our investment in the online digital part of our business and again some work in distribution logistics as well. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kate Fitzsimons with RBC Capital Markets.
Kate Fitzsimons:
My question is on sourcing. Just with more volatility in the wake of the trade tensions, and it sounds like you're making some changes on the supplier side, can you speak to how your ability to chase product on the PINK and VS side is evolving into the back half? Is this furthering your need for airfreight? Or just how should we think about the flexibility there? Also, just looking ahead to the fourth quarter, can you just speak to your open-to-buys for holiday?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So the last part of that question, we're essentially almost fully open for the fourth quarter in terms of open-to-buy. So take that part of it first.
And then with respect to speed and agility in the supply chain, it's been -- it's a legacy part of our business in a positive way. It's something that less focused on as long ago as the late '70s and early '80s. And we renewed our work in that area beginning now 7 or 8 years ago, both on the apparel -- the intimate apparel side of the business and in the personal care and beauty side of the business. So it's something we have renewed our capabilities in. And today, we would judge our capabilities in that area in terms of speed and agility in our supply chain as among the best in retailing based on what we know. With respect to the use of airfreight, frankly, substantially everything that we have produced outside the United States is on an airplane, other than some gift and accessory business. And it's because the value in our judgment of speed and agility, the question you're asking about, the economic value of that far outstrips the incremental cost of moving stuff on a boat. And as we like to say around here, "You can't sell it if it's on a boat, by the way." So our agility is good. And our standard model, if you will, with respect to things that are produced outside of the United States is, in fact, to move it by air. So the speed part of the businesses are fundamental, as we see it, and we're in good shape.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Kate.
Operator:
Your next question is from Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Stuart, I wanted to ask you about the more targeted promos at VS this fall holiday. I feel like you guys maybe did some of that a couple of years ago with mixed results. Maybe talk about the strategy there. And is it important to kind of get into that point where you have less promos in the back half but stronger comps? Is the targeted promos a key part of that? And then did you mention the trend through the quarter? I don't know if there was a big difference between the months in the VS comp.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So in terms of targeted versus broad-based promos, Omar, we continue to pursue the right balance between those 2 things. And the considerations in that is if you have a very broad-based promo, then you're essentially discounting the whole assortment, if you will, if it's very broad-based. I'm exaggerating a little bit to make a point. Whereas if you have targeted promos, obviously, you're not discounting large portions of the entire assortment, and you can get more full-price selling on particularly strong choices within the assortment.
And the balance point, which you recognize in the question, is that it tends to be that the broader-based promotions drive more consumer response and more traffic in an overall sense. So we're trying to strike that balance. The variable that's different from a year or 2 ago, and this is what makes the business interesting and fun, particularly when you largely figure it out, is that the assortment's different. So you could look at a promotional strategy in isolation and say, "Hey, didn't I try this a few years ago, and it didn't work? So like what are they thinking, right?" I'm again trying to make a point. But the dynamic has to include an evaluation of the strength of the assortment. It all starts with that. And with the work that Amy and John have been doing, we're optimistic that we can get reasonable result without having to do a substantial number of broad-based promotions. All that said, we've got a lot of flexibility there. And we will continue to test and learn and make trade-offs. And we'll be reevaluating the promotional strategy as we move through the fall season to get to the right customer response, get the right traffic, get the right margin dollars to work hard to deliver the results that are embedded in the forecast. The second part of the question was about trends within the months. So June was the strongest of the months, as I recall, and July was the weakest of the months, Omar, in the quarter -- second quarter for Victoria's, yes.
Amie Preston:
Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
You talked earlier about the rebalancing of the price points that Amy is doing within PINK. And I was wondering if there's any similar plans for Victoria's Secret Lingerie as John looked at the assortment there. And then second one is, just as you've sort of put everything on the table, are there any cost opportunities that you've identified that could help drive an improvement in profitability apart from the assortment and revenue initiatives that you're pursuing?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So with respect to an evaluation of good, better, best pricing and opportunities in the lingerie part of Victoria's, it's one of the most fundamental things that any merchant leader in any retail leadership team would evaluate. And so John has made that assessment for Victoria's Secret Lingerie. And the number of offerings at the better and best price points for Victoria's Secret Lingerie is up meaningfully versus what it had been. And that's based on -- if you've seen the merchandise online or in stores, you would see more sophisticated merchandise with a lot more, we believe, emotional content. And as we talked about at the start of the call, initial response from consumers to those new offerings has been good.
The other aspect of what John and Amy have done is to have a clearer demarcation between the Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK businesses. Again, PINK is targeted towards a college-aged customer, and lingerie, more typically, somebody that would be postcollege and at higher price points and with a greater degree of sophistication. So that's another aspect of the good, better, best pricing work that both leaders have done to properly segment and position their respective businesses.
Amie Preston:
Cost opportunities.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
There are always, in a big business like ours, cost opportunities. With that said, they come with trade-offs. And the company has worked hard to be efficient over its long history and including at our -- in our record result of 2015 when we had an overall company 18% operating income rate that -- one of the contributors to that was the highly efficient business.
With that said, we've had a lot of sales pressure and margin rate pressure in the business. We have taken what I'd call targeted actions to reduce expenses in connection with a lot of the change at Victoria's Secret. In 2016 and 2017, we have -- we took substantial home office cost reductions. And in more recent periods, over the last year to 18 months, we've taken a lot of expense out of the business in terms of variable expenses in selling -- certain selling areas and in marketing as examples. But there's always more that you can do, but it comes with trade-offs. And you've got to be thoughtful about not getting into an ongoing cost-cutting exercise that can hurt the near-term and longer-term prospects for the business. So we're trying to strike the right balance, and we'll continue to monitor that as time progresses. If retail selling trends don't improve, margin trends don't improve at Victoria's Secret, you would expect us to take another hard fundamental look at expenses. And what we're focused on to the greatest extent right now is getting the results at retail in terms of sales and margin. But there are other things that we could look at, but they again come with trade-offs. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jamie.
Operator:
Your final question comes from the line of Michael Binetti with Crédit Suisse.
Michael Binetti:
Stuart, could you -- I guess 2 questions quickly. Could you -- I know we've talked about the outlook for promotions and how you're working on the mix of targeted versus more broad-based. Can you tell us how you thought about the expectations for the promotional environment outside of your business as we head into the fourth quarter? I'm really -- I'm trying to reconcile the guidance for inventories to be up in the mid-teens with the comp items that you baked in for fourth quarter and, I guess, merch margins planned to be down a little bit. But since I know a lot of the year, a lot of the annual earnings happens in the fourth quarter, I'm trying to think about how much room you might have left for yourself given what we've heard so far in second quarter is a fairly volatile outlook for the rest of the year as far as where the peer group's promotional levels will be for the holiday.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So a couple of thoughts in reaction to your question or in response to your question. The first is, in the lingerie part of Victoria's particularly, the -- what we would call the initial markup or the inherent markup in the goods is substantially greater than what it had been. And so that provides the opportunity for higher-margin rate results and more flexibility or room, if needed, to promote the business. Again, that's not our going-in plan, but as we've talked about, we needed to balance volume with rate. And again, the point I'm trying to register is there's higher markup in the goods in terms of their initial retails and their costs. So that gives us more flexibility than we've had over the last few years.
With respect to the promotional environment, there are others in the industry and in our company that have been doing this longer than I have, and I've been doing it for a while. And going into every holiday, there's commentary about how it's going to be more promotional than ever. I am aware that we're in our 10th year of an economic recovery, and there's greater discussion understandably about the potential for a recession. But the truth is, absent a dramatic change in the environment like we saw in '08 and '09, we sell relatively affordable things. They are discretionary, but they're relatively affordable. And I would say, as a close-to-home data point, we look at Bath & Body's results in what folks might say is a promotional retail environment, and they're very strong results. And again, what those come from is a compelling brand position, a compelling merchandise assortment, well executed in the most complete sense. And we think that Victoria's has that opportunity. So there's nothing about the promotional environment per se that I would say is uniquely different versus most typical years. And it's really in our hands to deliver compelling assortments, again, well delivered in stores and online to get to a good result. And we have higher inherent markup to work with. Thanks.
Michael Binetti:
Okay. Can I ask one follow-up on PINK if it...
Amie Preston:
Go ahead, Michael.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure.
Michael Binetti:
Okay. I know you're up on time. But on PINK, Stuart, it seems -- you seem to think some of the issues with the comps there were, excluding swim, I guess, were isolated to single-category product issues. And I think there's been some variability on some of the product categories quarter-to-quarter as I look back over the last year. With your -- with the knowledge you have of where Vicky's has been over the last few years and looking at PINK, how do you isolate that this is contained to single products that we can always try to get right next season versus any metrics that you look at to gauge the longer-term health of the brand and whether there could be a longer-term issue that let you feel like, "This is okay. This really is just category-to-category issue, and we fixed it up. And we're not seeing issues with the brand that should cause a little bit more urgency here?"
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, it's hard for me to not react to -- clearly on the last part of your question. The urgency, there can be greater urgency on management. So if you don't feel urgency, then we're not communicating well, okay? So we're about as urgent as we...
Michael Binetti:
I shouldn't have said urgency maybe. I'm just -- I'm more curious for the...
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. We're about as urgent as we could be. And what the merchant leaders are focused on, John and Amy, is improving the merchandise offerings and then, again, executing those well in terms of all of the aspects of delivering that well to consumers in stores and online. We're aware of the time frame under which the Victoria's segment has had year-on-year declines in sales. It started in 2016, so this has been a multiyear situation.
With that said, we think that the assets that the business has in terms of brand awareness, brand regard, footfall in stores, visits online, sourcing and logistics capabilities, strong management certainly on an overall basis, that there's a lot of assets that this business has that, when well led and executed, we believe we're going to make substantial progress this fall and that there's a lot of opportunity for this business over the next several years. So -- and we're pursuing all that, trust me, with a lot of urgency. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, everyone. And that concludes our call today. Thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
And this concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Atania, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2019 Earnings Conference Call. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' First Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, May 4, 2019. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings. Our first quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO, and I will handle the call today. Thanks.
And now I'll turn it over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter earnings per share of $0.14 were above our initial guidance of about breakeven, principally driven by a strong performance at Bath & Body Works and some favorability in income taxes.
Performance at Victoria's Secret Lingerie, PINK, Victoria's Secret Beauty and International were largely in line with our forecast. Our performance continues to be mixed. Substantial growth in operating income at Bath & Body Works and an improvement in the other segment as a result of the sale of La Senza and the closure of Henri Bendel was offset by a decline at Victoria's Secret. Turning to our outlook for the remainder of 2019. At Bath & Body Works, an aligned experienced leadership team and strong customer response to our merchandise assortments are contributing to another solid year. We also remain highly focused on improving performance in the Victoria's Secret and PINK businesses. John Mehas and Amy Hauk, CEOs at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK, respectively, are focused on getting closer to our customers and improving our merchandise assortments. We look forward to our assortments benefiting from their input beginning in the fall season, and our earnings guidance assumes gradual improvement in the Victoria's Secret segment performance as we move through the remainder of 2019. You will hear more from John and Amy as well as other business leaders at our Investor Day, which is scheduled for September 10. Thanks, and over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks.
And I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Can we just touch on Victoria's Secret in terms of kind of maybe where you saw some green shoots in the first quarter? And just give us a better sense of what you expect in the second quarter. And clearly, the guidance does still suggest some real improvement in the second half.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure, Paul. So in terms of where we see strong consumer response and what we're focused on is where we're delivering significant fashion and elevation in the assortment. And it's a big focus for us, and that's where we're seeing the strongest consumer response. The incredible bra launch did well. But as a general theme, it's where we have fashion that resonates with the consumer. And again, John is particularly focused on that and jumped right in. Frankly, he's been with our business now 13 weeks and hit the ground running in a very good and intense way in the business and is very busy at work to impact fall assortments. But again, for Lingerie, it's about delivering compelling fashion in the major categories of bras, panties and sleep and loungewear.
In the PINK business, strong performance in intimates and a good volume result in sport bras, particularly and in -- again the intimate side of the business with very strong value for the consumer. And that business, PINK, is focused on really continuing to advance the assortment in bras and panties and is doing important work to reposition the apparel assortments as well, but has a real advantage in the bra and panties side of the business. And then for Victoria's Secret Beauty, the -- this business continues to do well. And where the business had good fashion in a better priced -- or higher-priced fragrance business, we've had strong consumer response. So as has been the case for us for a long, long time, and the same idea applies to Bath & Body Works and in our history, when we're delivering strong fashion, differentiated merchandise with emotional content, the consumer responds in a good way and we get healthy margins, we get unit volume, we get AUR opportunity and we get the results. So that's what the Victoria's leaders, John, Amy and Greg, are focused on. And frankly, the same for the team at Bath & Body Works. When we do it well, we get paid. And when we're off the market -- or off the mark or our assortments get too basic, that's when we tend to have trouble.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess, Stuart, just a high-level question for you. There was some news that kind of came out I think a week or 2 ago about potentially reevaluating the fashion show and being on TV. I guess when you think about VS right now, how much of the changes should be more strategic in terms of merchandising versus kind of more substantial changes, meaning changing the marketing approach, evolving the brand, maybe looking at the international business and owned versus partner businesses, franchise -- excuse me, flagship stores? I'm just trying to understand what could be -- your Analyst Day has been announced for September. What could we possibly look forward to hearing from you guys then?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So thanks, Ike, for the question and your research on the business. We've said pretty consistently now for probably around like 6 or 9 months, certainly 6 months, that everything is on the table with respect to the evaluation of the Victoria's Secret business, and that wasn't just a throw away phrase. That was
[Audio Gap] we are taking a fresh hard look at all aspects of the business. And that's not a onetime exercise. It will be an ongoing exercise and starts from the place that the ultimate profit result, economic results of the business is not consistent with our expectations or the potential of the business. And thus, you get into a mindset -- we're in a mindset of truly looking at everything. And again, not a onetime exercise. As Amy and John particularly have come into the business, but Greg has done the same thing, it really does start. And it's not limited to, but it starts with fundamentally the merchandise that you're selling. And as I mentioned in a quick comment on the first question on this call, Amy is very intensely focused on understanding that target customer and reworking the assortments at PINK. And John, again now 13 weeks in, has truly hit the ground running and is bringing to our situation a lot of great experience that he had in his prior retail life. And so we're very focused, obviously, on the merchandise. And as registered in our pre-circulated comments, that impact is showing up in the most clear way beginning in the fall season, and it will get more significant as we move through the fall season. But that is tangible and real. From that, we're taking our look at lots of other stuff. We closed more stores or announced plans to close more stores, have closed more stores, to rightsize square footage in 2019 than we had historically, as an example of taking up a hard fresh look at things. And by the way, the business also continues to invest in real estate and opens doors where it makes sense, particularly at Bath & Body Works, but also internationally. As it relates to marketing, Ike, in the fashion show, at the end of the day, as part of that fresh hard review of everything, we're taking a hard look at the best ways to reinforce the equities and the strengths of the Victoria's business and make appropriate adjustment to the positioning of the business. And then in concert with the changes in merchandise, how do we most effectively market those changes? And that work, as you would appreciate, is in process. When we have specific things to share publicly, we will. In some cases, we'll do that right as consumers are experiencing it for competitive reasons that you would understand. But there's active work going on with respect to how the business is marketed, as indicated by our announcement recently about a reevaluation of the fashion show. So everything is on the table. Certainly, you mentioned international and how we're looking at that business. There are no constraints, only time frame. You would understand in that evaluation, one has to think about lease terms and lease flexibility and those kinds of things, but we're in a position where everything is on the table. Les Wexner has always led with that mindset, that it's always about looking forward and about change. And on an overall basis, certainly, he's navigated and led that well over a long, long time in specialty retail, and we're very focused on it as a management team.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering if you can maybe give some more color on the gross margin as we go throughout the year. I know you're expecting growth in merch down for the year. But I guess are you expecting any improvement at all as we go into the back half and some of the new products flows in and then just the drivers?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks for the question. The simplest way to answer your question is we are expecting improvement in merchandise margin. You'll remember, as we report, gross margin includes buying and occupancy cost, but we would expect -- I trust you're asking about the Victoria's business. But for Lingerie, PINK, and Beauty, we would expect an improvement in merchandise margin rate and dollar result as we move through the year sequentially. That was our view going into the year. It remains our view, and it's a function of the work that John, Amy and Greg continue to do on the merchandise assortment. So that is our expectation, that we'll see sequential improvement as we move through the quarter.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager with Robert W. Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
If I could just follow up there, Stuart, on the margin front. So there was a comment in the prepared remarks about the VS Q1 operating margin still benefiting from last year's credit and sourcing actions. So -- and then you're going to begin to lap that I think going through the remainder of the year. So a number of crosscurrents here. You mentioned you would expect merchandise margin to improve throughout the year. But as we lap some of those other benefits, and then it sounds like maybe we're baking in some incremental tariff headwinds, just how should we think about the EBIT margin rate progression through the year for Victoria's Secret relative to that 300 basis point decline in Q1? And then kind of as a follow-up, clearly some greater divergence this year with the investment plans at Victoria's Secret versus BBW. I was hoping you could just help us understand the run rate of buying and occupancy growth at each of these concepts so we can have a better understanding of the leverage points today.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So thanks, Mark. On the progression of margin rates and EBIT rates as we move through the year, while there are puts and takes, including some benefit that we got from our proprietary credit card and some sourcing-related benefits that we got last year and into the first quarter of this year, despite those puts and takes, we would expect a progression and improvement sequentially in margin rates and the operating income result in the Victoria's business as we move through the year. Again, even despite the callouts that we had in the prepared remarks and including the pressure from the list 3 tariff moved from 10% to 25%.
With respect to buying and occupancy dollar increases or percent growth and sales growth needed to drive leverage, in the Bath & Body business, driven by the ongoing and we think a very healthy and appropriate investment in store remodels and some pressure related to continued mix shift towards direct, again, Bath & Body is having the great outcome of growing sales in stores and online, but online is growing at a faster rate. And the P&L architecture, that penetration growth for direct in BBW in addition to the pressure related to real estate, results in a sales growth to leverage B&O in the high single or low double range, depending upon time period, again, driven by the 2 factors I just mentioned, the direct business as an aside is a very healthy profit business for BBW and VS for that matter. But that growth rate outstripping the total growth rate drives some geography change in that P&L. And then for Victoria's, driven by the lack of growth in square footage and our pullback on investment, the breakpoint or the leverage point for sales at VS is flat or even a little less than flat in 2019. Thanks.
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
First question is just on digital with Victoria's Secret. I think you've talked in the past about -- and in the release today about the stepped up investment. And I think there's still a relaunch coming this year. Can you just confirm that and talk about what that will encompass and when it's coming? That would be great.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So we went live in the first quarter with a new technology platform for victoriassecret.com. And that was a result of more than a year's work and a substantial IT project to replatform that website. So that is a new base platform and was a very significant technology project. And I'm knocking on wood or a hard surface anyway, but it is up and running. And there hasn't been any significant adverse set of startup issues related to that, and that's a big deal.
And that new platform will enable us to do a lot of things. Now we need to make further investment to do those things, such as buy online, pickup in store. But another key input to achieving that consumer outcome will be the RFID project that's underway for Victoria's Secret. And it's critical that we have a very good information about our specific inventories. And we have broad assortments at Victoria's, particularly in the bra category, and so we want to make sure that we have accurate information. And this RFID project I'm mentioning will help enable a buy online, pickup in store project that we'll likely get after in 2020 after we do the RFID work this year. We are making further investments in the digital business beyond the platform, including rolling that new platform to the international side of our business and continuing to enhance the consumer experience. And then we are also making a significant investment in digital fulfillment capacity for Victoria's. And while outsourced, we're adding a lot of capacity for the Bath & Body side of the business as well given the growth and further potential in that business. So a lot going on, a lot of investment happening related to the online business, which again, as you know, is now running $2.4 billion, $2.5 billion for L Brands, growing at a very healthy rate on an overall basis and highly profitable.
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Jay Sole with UBS.
Jay Sole:
Stuart, I want to just ask another question just about margins at Victoria's Secret. From a big picture perspective, the company has done a great job cutting costs. You mentioned La Senza, Henri Bendel. But Victoria's Secret North America is still doing over $7 billion in sales like -- but obviously the margins have come down. What's the opportunity if you wanted to look at more cost cuts? Not necessarily closing stores, but just more efficiencies to overall improve the margin, what might those be? And then also, can you just talk about the path to profitability in China? You made some comments in the prepared remarks about that business getting a little bit better. Can you just tell us where it stands today and what you see going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So With respect to the Victoria's business and managing the expense side of the business, just working down the P&L and talking about the biggest categories of expense, again, beyond getting margin rates where they had been. Again, the biggest cause of decline, profit rate and profit dollar decline, at Victoria's has been erosion of margin rates, merchandise margin rates to be specific. And that's about pricing and promotion and having merchandise with emotional content. But that wasn't your question. You're asking about the expense side of the business.
So moving down the P&L, the biggest variable expense we have is store payroll. And we believe that it's important to have appropriate coverage of square footage and of traffic volumes to drive the selling opportunity that exists in our stores. We also believe it's important to pay our associates. We have outstanding teams at a competitive level to ensure that we can attract and retain appropriately skilled store associates, and we got a lot of them given the selling opportunity in the business. But -- so with respect to store payroll, not a lot of opportunity on a rate basis for a reduction. With respect to occupancy cost, obviously, the action that one can take, there are 2 major things that one can do beyond driving sales volume. One is to adjust investment in remodel activity or new stores, and we've done that. We've dramatically reduced almost to 0 the investment levels at Victoria's Secret given the current state of performance. And as leases roll off or where there's opportunity to close stores, and again, we closed more stores this year than we had probably a factor of between 2 and 3x we had done previously, so that's the other action that one can take. And then there are other -- 2 other big categories of expense to consider, and we have. One is the marketing investment in the business to drive sales. Generally, people invest in marketing because they believe it does drive top line growth, which is obviously important to any business. But we have heavily scrutinized the marketing spend at Victoria's. And over the last 9 to 12 months, particularly, we've taken meaningful dollars out of the marketing spend at Victoria's. And then lastly is the home office spending in the business. And in connection with all the changes that were made in the business, in 2016, the business let go in round numbers about 300 people and made a substantial reduction in the home office workforce at that time. And we've tried to manage any growth since that time. But all the expenses are being evaluated. They have been evaluated, and we've taken significant action on those expenses at Victoria's. But the biggest opportunity is about top line growth at a healthy margin rate, and then we would get reasonable leverage on the expense lines. With respect to China, in terms of improving the profitability there, it will be volume in existing stores; volume related to new store activity, which we have planned in 2019; and then a continued focus on -- consistent with your earlier question, a continued focus on the expense levels in that business to make sure that we're getting appropriate return on the various forms of expense structure in the China business. But it is largely a volume story in China to get to the profit we expect. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, my question is on PINK. I'm wondering if you can just remind us what the mix is between intimate apparel and loungewear at PINK. Is it 50-50, 60-40? And then are there any initial thoughts that you can share from Amy about what is not working in apparel? And then with regard to the swim elimination, I think it was a 5% hit here in the first quarter. How should we think about the elimination of swim in the PINK business but a reintroduction at the Victoria's Secret Lingerie business? And is there any thought to bring swim back?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Kimberly. So the first question was about the mix -- merchandise mix between intimates and apparel. At present, it's about 50-50. So bras and panties together, about 50%. And the balance of the business, largely apparel, about 50%.
As I mentioned in an earlier comment, we believe we have our greatest competitive advantage and strong attributes around customer or consumer loyalty in the intimate apparel business. And so it's our intention, Amy's intention, Les' intention, the team's intention, to grow the intimate business faster than the apparel business. So I would expect that, that mix of about 50-50 will skew to intimates being obviously greater than 50% over the next year or 2. That's our focus for the reasons I mentioned. With respect to the apparel part of the business, and Amy will comment on all of this on September 10 when we have our time together, she's relooking at all of it in terms of price points, good, better, best opportunities, fabric and fabrication, surface design, various logo treatments, et cetera. She's looking at all of it, testing a lot of things, seeing some positive consumer reaction to some of the things that have been tested. And as we've mentioned consistently -- and Kimberly, you're familiar with one of the additional advantages that PINK has in its operating model, its business model, our short lead times and a mindset around speed and agility, so they are chasing hard. I'm not going to sit here and tell you that she's got all the answers because she doesn't. But she's working and seeing some -- working very actively and applying the BBW and other retail playbook to this business. And we're encouraged based on what we're seeing, but the results of her work will show up most in the fall season. You know that we've got campus reps that we have very active dialogue with, and she's certainly making good use of that resource and ensuring that, that resource is truly telling us what we need to hear, and I think they are. So a lot going on. And we're optimistic that, certainly, as we move through the year and particularly in the fall season, that we'll stabilize and then get back to positive growth in sales and margin in PINK.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Swim?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Oh, thank you. Swim, you mentioned that we've gotten back into that category, in large part, due to third-party brands. And with respect to PINK, I would say anything's possible, Kimberly. There is some, what we call, gym to swim offering in the assortment now, where athleisure tops and bottoms, that would be suitable in terms of their style and so on, would be suitable for use in that occasion or as part of her life in that way. Our offer today, it's a small offering, but there's an open mindedness to it. But it won't be a key thing for the balance of this year, but we'll see how it progresses as we move into the following year. Thanks.
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
We had questions related to the innovation that you see ahead at VS. Some of the survey work we've done around customers does point to fit as well as comfort being issues. Also, customer segmentation across the store. I would love your thoughts on that and what you think may happen as you continue to evolve the brand and add more emotional content.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, the first thought I have, Oliver -- and thanks for the question and read your report with interest. The first thing I would say is that the subjects that you researched and wrote about are -- is what John and his team are most focused on, which is how to evolve the assortment to ensure that the merchandise offering best addresses her needs. As you know, from all the consumer work you do, sometimes she's able to clearly express what she's looking for. And there other times, where a leading consumer brand, and we have our examples of this, is able to drive the market through our own innovation. And again, that's what you're asking about.
We believe that there is a very significant opportunity with respect to fashion, with respect to an elevation of the merchandise, with respect to not selling as much, what we would call, commodity or commonly available merchandise in the bra, panty and sleep and loungewear categories. And based on early work but substantial work, John is on it and has a very strong point of view that makes a lot of intuitive sense. We've done a lot of consumer research over the years, as you would expect us to. It's inherent in running a business. And certainly, the attributes around comfort and other things that you mentioned in your report, we understand well and believe that we have leadership positions in many of those attributes or those characteristics that consumers are looking for. But John is on it. He brings good experience. His team is on it with him. He's leading. He's got a clear point of view, and substantial changes to the assortment are coming. You'll see that beginning in August. John will be with investors with the balance of the team on the 10th of September to more fully articulate his assessment and his game plan. And we've got strong reasons for optimism about the progression in 2019 for the Lingerie business. Thank you, Oliver.
Oliver Chen:
Stuart, there was one other follow-up on the store and customer feedback about customer service as well as thinking about navigation in the store. I know you've done a lot of work in the past with conversion as well as testing, optimizing service in the past, but if you could brief us on that opportunity. It seems like an important opportunity going forward as well.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thank you, Oliver. So we agree that there's opportunity to make the store more easily understood and navigated and to further strengthen the interactions between our associates and customers. And as part of what John and the team and Amy and her team are focused on, it includes, Oliver, more easily understood and navigated store and continued work in terms of the interactions between our sales associates and our customers. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
[Operator Instructions]
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Alexandra Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
I know we had a brief comment earlier on the swim business in response to Kimberly's question. I wonder if you could reflect on the swim launch at Victoria's Secret. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that, what's the impact it's having on the business. And on e-commerce traffic, what's the customer response been? And how you're feeling about the levels of fashion price points and so forth? And should we expect any changes there going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks. So as we have communicated, the reentry into swim was an initial test. The decision was made to do that late last year. The financial outcome to date and expected for the balance of the season is in line with our expectations, so it's doing well and meeting our expectation.
It's not having a material impact on the overall business because it was a reentry and a test. What we have learned, despite what may be out there on the Internet, is that there has been strong positive reaction to the assortment generally, including at higher price points. And I realized there's chatter out there with commentary about the good, better, best pricing. But what I'm conveying in response to your question is we've had a strong positive reaction to all of the price points we have offered in a good way. Certainly, there's some learning that we're achieving through the test. But again, overall, it's gone well, it's meeting our expectations. The business will get substantially larger a year from now. It remains focused as an online business, but one of the very positive aspects of the test has been the positive consumer response to the swim offering at higher price points, in addition to the more moderate price points that we had historically been in. So that's where we stand on it, and we're encouraged about the test and will be expanding our business there over the next several years. Thank you.
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about John Mehas' feelings about the legacy bra platforms at Victoria's Secret. They think that, that older product seems to be holding back a rebound in the Lingerie category. And I'm focused on what you said about fashion newness and when it's right, they'll go for it. And I'm wondering if we'll see an evolution in the legacy platforms or if they'll fade away and be replaced with greater fashion platforms.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thank you, Janet. Thanks for the question. And you've followed retail a long, long time. I've been involved in it for a while. Our company has been involved in it for a long, long time. This business, fundamentally, is about fashion. We're not about selling basic commodity product year after year after year. That's not the business that we're in. Others are in that business and that's fine, and they have operating models and all kinds of things that make that work for them. But that's not what our company has done for more than 55 years. We're about fashion. And when we lack fashion, lack newness, lack innovation, where it's not interesting, the result becomes apparent.
And so in answer to your question about is John focused on that or what's his assessment, again, he'll, for himself, articulate all that in early September. But our observation, his observation is that there is a substantial opportunity to remix the assortment, and that's not just words on a PowerPoint chart or my comment on an earnings call. He's doing real work on that with the team and it's substantial work. And he's working with our sourcing partners and our vendor partners, which we have strong relationship and good capability. And there's a lot happening. Will it all be perfect and all work right out of the box? I'm sure it won't. But he's making substantial change. We believe it's positive change that makes sense. And that -- the specifics of that will become apparent as we move through the fall season. And again, he'll share his thinking in September with you and the investment community. So -- but a substantial change, a substantial opportunity for more fashion in the business. Thank you.
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi Research.
Kelly Crago:
This is Kelly Crago on for Paul. You've talked about substantial changes coming in August on the product side at VS. It sounds like John has already made some progress. Does that include any changes on the marketing side as well? And then on -- in swim, you also mentioned that you saw some success in third-party brand in swimwear. Is there any opportunity to expand partnerships with third-party brands within the lingerie assortment?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So cutting to the chase, Kelly, will there be any changes in marketing related -- or in concert with the change in the merchandise assortment? And the very simple answer to that question is yes. And are we going to get specific about that right now? No. Do we have it all figured out at this very moment? No. Is it being worked on? Yes, very actively by the right folks, and there will be change coming. So that's -- we're encouraged by that and excited about that. And so there's real opportunity, not only in changing the merchandise assortments themselves, but how we communicate those changes and the nature of those items to our consumer. So we're enthused about that, and there is active work happening in that space.
With respect to the potential for additional or different third-party brands in the swim business, absolutely. We've been pleased, as I mentioned in prior commentary, been pleased with the overall result. But we'll continue to look at our offering in swim, including the offerings from various third-party brands. And I'm confident that there'll be a change there, and that's not a negative comment about who we're doing with -- business with today. We've been, again, pleased on an overall basis. But again, like with anything, you want to continue to evolve it, advance it, change it and I'm sure it'll be an ongoing change in the lineup, if you will, of third-party brands. With respect to third-party lingerie, also, we've done some tests. We believe there's some potential there in our business through collaborations of various types and we're actively working in that space as well. With respect to third-party lingerie, active work happening there as well. Thank you.
Operator:
Your question comes from the line of Kate Fitzsimons with RBC Capital Markets.
Kate Fitzsimons:
I guess my question is on BBW. What are some trends in the business that is getting the team excited that they can maintain the momentum for the remainder of 2019? And saw that the inventory investment is coming for the back half, just what's the view on balancing the top and bottom line as you guys start introducing more units into the system?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
What's got the Bath & Body Works team most excited is that they -- probably 3 or 4 things. One, they've got strong growth at healthy margins in all of their major books of business. So that's really good. The metaphor of firing on all cylinders, they are in terms of the home fragrance business, the hand soap business and the body care business. So that's got them excited.
What leads to that is the regular introduction of newness and fashion in those categories. If we take some examples, recent examples, the launch of gingham in their body care business and fragrance categories has -- had a very strong positive consumer response. It's sophisticated, it's elevated and their customer and new customers both have responded very well to it. So what's got them excited is -- and they don't -- they're not -- they don't bat 1,000%. They don't get it right every time, but their major books of business are performing well. And where they've introduced compelling new fashion and newness in their key items, key categories, they've gotten a strong consumer response, so that's got them excited. And they leveraged a very fast supply chain to manage the risk of that. They do a good job of it. With respect to inventory, and we commented about inventories, some inventory investment at Bath & Body Works. Obviously, the top line trend in the business is very good. But we missed some business in 2018 because we got very lean on inventory. And so the last thing you want to do is literally not be able to fulfill your sales potential because you got too lean. So learning from that and doing it in a balanced way, we're making a little bit more investment ahead of key holiday periods to ensure that we've got the appropriate in-stock positions to maximize the business. So that's what's going on. That team has managed inventory in an extraordinary way over the last 10 years, improving turn to beyond 4x a year and driving strong sales and margin result, consumer experience as part of that. And so our confidence level in that team working with our vendor partners to manage the supply chain, inventory flow, all of that, is very, very high based on a lot of strong results over the years. So not concerned about it. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And thanks, everyone, for joining us this morning. I hope everybody has a happy Memorial Day weekend. Bye.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call, you may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Natalia, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands' Fourth Quarter 2018 Earnings Conference Call. [Operator Instructions]
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer of L Brands. You may begin.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Natalia, and good morning, everyone. Welcome to L Brands' Fourth Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, February 2, 2019.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings. Our fourth quarter earnings release, additional commentary and the earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. All the results discussed on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the significant items described in our press release. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO, is joining me on the call today. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone.
After reducing guidance in the middle of 2018, we beat those reduced forecast in both the third and fourth quarters on an adjusted basis. That said, we have not met our own expectations for overall performance, and we are intensely focused on improving results. We have set guidance for 2019 that is pretty well-balanced for external purposes that reflects current trends early in the year and assume improvement as we move through the year at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK. In addition to the ongoing running of the business, I would want to highlight important decisions and events, including the closure of Henri Bendel; the sale of La Senza; reducing our regular dividend by half to normalize the payout and free up funds to reduce our near-term debt levels; the appointment of Amy Hauk to run PINK and the hiring of John Mehas to lead Victoria's Secret Lingerie; the continued proactive and disciplined management of inventory, expenses, real estate and capital structure; a heightened focus on the customer and our merchandise assortment at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK; and finally, an ongoing mindset of everything is on the table for review and change. Thanks. And over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any of your questions. [Operator Instructions]
And now I'll turn it back over to Natalia.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering if you can maybe just give some thoughts on the industry. Obviously, in terms of the intimate category, it's obviously been tough for some time not only in your business, but we've seen that department stores struggled with their intimates departments. I guess I'm more curious on are you seeing pricing pressure with new players popping up and I think being more price competitive? And then also we've seen -- and a lot of online players pop up and -- maybe not individually. Are they taking market share? But when you kind of add them all up, is it kind of making an impact on the industry and making it more difficult, I guess, to gain market share and maybe adding some pricing pressure?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks for the question, Susan. Our thoughts on the intimate apparel category are that it's a great category. I think the one observation reflection I would have on others entering the category is they're doing so because it's an attractive category. It's got the opportunity for differentiation. It inherently -- when it's intimate apparel versus underwear has emotional content. And from that, a lot of economic value can be created for companies, participants in the category. So we think it's a great category. In terms of recent developments, pricing pressure, commoditization, I mean, at the end of the day, it comes back to the merchandise. If the merchandise is special, unique, reflects fashion, has newness, has technical benefit, there are terrific opportunities in the category. So we feel very good about the category. And again, I would characterize the entrance of new participants, frankly, as a sign of that and that it's an attractive category. So with that said, are we meeting our expectations right now in the category? We're not. And we're obviously very focused on improving the trend of our business, and John Mehas and Amie, particularly, most focused on improving the merchandise. So overall, we think it's a great category. Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Stuart, last quarter, in the prepared remarks, it really discussed everything, that you're looking at everything at VS. And today, you've announced the plan, the 3% reduction in VS square footage, speaking up to basically about the improved assortments later in the year. Just curious if there's any additional actions being contemplated or bigger-picture changes on the brand positioning, marketing plans, cost structure that you can speak to today just to give us a bit more perspective on the change that's happening within the brand. And then as a follow-up, specifically on the assortment, I'm wondering if you can help us contextualize what will be changing later in the year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, in terms of the changed agenda at Victoria's Secret, as you I think are recognizing in the form of your question in our prepared remarks, the most important thing in our view is the merchandise. And again, that's where John and Amie are spending -- and Greg, the substantial majority of their time as they should, the merchandise and that deep understanding of the customer. With that said, we've -- we have and will continue to review all significant aspects of the Victoria's Secret business, whether that's how we market, how we sell online and in stores, the experience customers have in stores and online, the cost structure of the business, the real estate footprint and format of the business. And we've embarked on detailed review of all those things. Specifically on real estate, our store closure plans are heightened in 2018. And we pulled back on investing in new and remodeling -- new stores and the remodeling of stores substantially over the last several years. But truly, everything is on the table. Amy's been in seat just since October and John's just a couple of weeks in. So you can appreciate that they want to make sure that they have a full appreciation of the situation before they make major changes. But with that said, they're very intensely engaged in the business and again, most focused on the merchandise. But truly, everything is on the table. And for example, we did a deep review of all of our real estate in the fourth quarter, which solidified and gave rise to our plans about capital activity, spending activity in 2019 and again, a more active closure plan for 2019 than we've seen in prior years. But truly, everything is on the table with the dominant focus on the customer and on the merchandise. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Ike Burochow with Wells Fargo.
Lauren Frasch:
This is Lauren Frasch on for Ike. Wanting to ask how you're thinking about promotions this year. What's the plan as of today? And how you're thinking about AUR versus last year? And how we should think about your inventory positioning in 2019 at VS versus 12 months ago?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Well, I'll start with a discussion of promotions at Bath & Body Works. So with -- a nice business. It's part of L Brands, as you know. I'm sorry, I tend to have a little bit of humor here. But that important part of our business was actually able to reduce promotional activity in 2018 and particularly in the fourth quarter. So what really drives that promotional level in these businesses is the quality of the merchandise and the quality of running the business in a disciplined manner. And when we get that right, compelling, fresh merchandise, promotional levels come down, AURs go up, margins are healthy, inventory turns are strong; and Bath & Body has a strong record of that and had incremental progress in 2018 in terms of reducing promotion. With respect to Victoria's Secret, the mindset or the thinking is the same, which is when you get the merchandise more right than wrong, you're able to reduce promotion. As you can appreciate, substantial change in the assortment will occur more in the back half of 2019 than in the front half of 2019. So we have been more promotional than we would like over the last several years through improvement in the merchandise assortment. With ongoing disciplined management of inventory, we would expect that we'll be able to reduce promotional levels as we move forward. But it's going to take a little bit of time. Hopefully, that answers your questions. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question's on Lingerie. I'm wondering if you can sort of look back over the last 1.5 years. Lingerie seemed to be gaining some momentum from new launches in the back half of '17. And other than lapping the bralette business in the second half of '17 and the first half of '18, it seemed like it had a little bit of momentum driven largely by some of those new product introductions. And then in the back half of '18, it seemed to backslide a little bit. Now I'm wondering -- Stuart, if you can correct my understanding if I'm not recapping it correctly. And I'm wondering if you've had time to look back and dig a little deeper into exactly what happened so that you can have at least some starting points for how to repair that business.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Kimberly. Thanks for the question. I think the thing that I would add to your framing of what occurred and you're asking for more insight, obviously, is some of our core franchises and particularly Body by Victoria had a deceleration in trend, a year-on-year pressure that's gotten more significant as we moved through 2018, Kimberly. And that pressure in those core franchises, again, not limited to, but principally Body by Victoria, is really what drove the further pressure as we moved through 2018. And what that comes back to is innovation. Everything's got a life cycle. And as one gets later in life cycles, you got to innovate and update and create differentiation. And we got a bit behind on that in some of these core bra franchises. And you can be sure that John and the team there are intensely focused on that very question and that big opportunity, frankly. And that's going to be a big -- is a big priority as we move to 2019. But in terms of what drove the change in performance, it is that deceleration and some big books of business that were, what I'd call, core sub-brands that have existed for a long time that weren't sufficiently updated with fashion or innovation to continue their strength.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Kate Fitzsimons with RBC Capital Markets.
Kate Fitzsimons:
I was wondering if we can dig in a bit more into the marketing side of the equation at VS. Could you just speak to any of the work you were doing to reexamine how you're communicating with the customer on the brand position? What were some of the learnings last year as you have evolved the positioning to more of a self-empowerment me-day versus V-day angle, for example? And what's the view on how that's evolving this year? And how do you see the fashion show fitting into all of that?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Well, as we've tried to be clear about, we are taking a fresh hard look at everything in the business. So that would be the first point to register. The second thing I would just articulate is that the dominant focus is understanding the customer and making significant improvement to the merchandise assortment. And we've taken a fresh look at all of the marketing. We don't have any specific announcements about the fashion show. We don't typically make announcements about the fashion show at this time of year, but we're looking at all aspects of the marketing of the business. And John's heavily involved in that as our other leaders in the business. And we're spending a lot of time taking a fresh hard look at all those things. And there'll be more to report as we move through 2019, but we don't normally comment on the fashion show at this time of year. But we're taking a fresh hard look at everything.
Kate Fitzsimons:
Great. And then if I could just follow up with one quick question on the first quarter guidance, negative low single digits. Could you speak to February trends, thus far? And I guess how should we contextualize that with the thought that swim is launching next month and also inventories are clean?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So February has been a little choppy because of what we believe to be some effect from tax refund timing. I think that's well understood and being written about, otherwise. But we're not going to comment specifically on February as -- beyond that. As we highlighted in our circulated commentary, we are going to move to a quarterly reporting of sales and results based on feedback from shareholders, trying to minimize the noise and often misinterpretation of results based on calendar shifts and holidays and year-on-year promotional changes. And we've -- we laid out the key assumptions for our Q1 results. So -- but February has been a little choppy because of the timing of tax refunds. Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
Just two quick ones from me. The first one is can you just talk a little bit about your process for identifying the stores to close? What do you expect the financial impact of those closures to be? And this is just the first wave in terms of what you would expect over the next few years. And then second is I think in the past, you talked about relaunching digital for Victoria's Secret this year. Is that still on track? And when would that happen?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
What's the last part of your question?
Amie Preston:
Relaunching digital.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Okay. So on store closures, like how do we go about it and so on. You asked is this the first wave, and I'd -- I'm saying this was a little bit of intended humor. It's an important subject you're asking about. I actually would assert that this is about our 50th wave. And what I mean by that is we close stores every year. So that's an ongoing part of running the business. How we go about it is we look at current and projected performance, sales, profit, cash flow. We look at trade area dynamics and how store openings and closings affect nearby stores and, to a lesser extent, our online business. And based on those historic and projected results not just for the store in question but for nearby stores, we make judgments about what the projected sales profit cash flow results would be also in relation to what it may cost to exit a store. And based on those criteria, we close stores. And in fact, we close stores every year at Bath & Body Works and at Victoria's. And we also open stores every year. We are closing more stores in -- we did in 2018 and expected in 2019 based on the overall performance of the Victoria's Secret business not meeting our expectations or having year-on-year declines. But that's how we go about it. It's detailed. It's rigorous. It's fact-based. And again, the result is we're closing more stores at Victoria's than we have over the last few years. But again, I wouldn't want you to think that we do it in waves. It's an ongoing part of a good multiunit business. Whether it's a restaurant business or a retail business, it's a good ongoing part of the running of the business. We have a lot of flexibility in our real estate terms. So for those malls that are the most vulnerable malls, we have a lot of opportunity to exit those situations with no -- at no cost or with very little cost. So we've got a lot of flexibility. And on an overall basis, our real estate portfolio is in pretty good shape. Do we have some opportunities? We do. We recognized an impairment cost in our results this year. But on an overall basis, our real estate is in good shape. And that's because it is very actively managed as an ongoing part of the running of the business. With respect to relaunching the Victoria's website, I think that was your question. We have been working on that over the last several years. The project is in good shape. We are currently doing testing of the new online platform, a live testing, and expect to go live broadly on that conversion in probably April. But again, it will be a function of testing, which, at this point, is going well, but likely to do the cutover roundly in the April time frame. And we will have the ability to revert back to the legacy system if we have any challenges as we cutover. But that project's in good shape and will create capability for us -- capabilities for us to do a lot of things that we're very enthused about doing over the next year or 2 in terms of consumer-facing -- customer-facing things that many others do today that -- than we will be able to do. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
[Operator Instructions] We've got a lot of folks in the queue. So next question.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
Just -- Stuart, regarding everything being on the table. I'm curious if we've already seen the big changes, whether swim, store closures that we're talking about today. Are there still bigger things to come related to the Victoria's Secret brand in your view? And I'm curious, what are some of the big things that have already been considered and maybe shut down or shot down?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. It's -- it will be dynamic, Paul, as it should be. So we'll learn more as time goes by, but we're not constrained in our thinking or in the options that could be considered or should be considered. And we're trying to make the best decisions possible in the running of the business starting with the customer mindset. Obviously, a mindset about producing the appropriate financial results for the business and for the shareholders of the business. But we aren't constrained and we're trying to use our best judgment, which certainly isn't perfect, there's no such thing, but pretty reasonable judgment. And our dominant focus has been clear through my remarks already this morning and through the script. The dominant focus is on the merchandise. With that said, we have and we will continue to take a hard look at everything. And we'll report along the way. But there are no constraints. We're not financially constrained. And we've got a lot of different things that we have and can consider. But I think it's also important to be very clear that our dominant focus, John's, Amie's, Greg's is on the customer and on the merchandise because that's what matters most. Thanks.
Paul Lejuez:
Right. And you're considering how to change. But have you thought about how you're definitely not going to change in any way? Like -- or you said things that have been already maybe shot down?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
There are truly, Paul. And it -- we know each other pretty well. Those who are not listening to the call may not know that, but we've worked together for a while. I mean, there are no constraints, Paul. None. The only constraint is what's the right thing. There are the constraints of law, right? What's legal or not, right? But apart from what's legal or not, we're not constrained. What's relevant to a customer, that's an important consideration, obviously. But otherwise, we're not constrained.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Alexandra Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
My question is on the comp guide for the business, the comps of low single digits. I wonder if you could give us some color on how you're expecting that to parse out between the 2 businesses. In particular, we're interested in Bath & Body Works and what's giving you the confidence that, that business can continue to comp against what are some slightly tougher compares as we go into next year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. The most important thing in the guidance is the assumed progress for Victoria's as we move through the year. That's the most important judgment or the most important assumption in the 2019 guidance. And this is summarizing. But in terms of trying to headline it, in the early part of the year, we're assuming comps and margin dollar results for Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK particularly that are generally in line with the most recent trends, and then we're assuming improvement as we move through the year. That's the most important assumption. Separately, you're asking about can Bath & Body lap tough numbers and to what extent. Bath & Body is a very well-led business. It's in a very strong category of retailing in terms of personal care and beauty. And we believe it's reasonable that they can continue their success. Are we expecting the same degree fully, ultimately, in our operating income the same degree of success in '19 in OI dollars as they produced in '18? No, there's a little bit of moderation in the OI dollar results. But we have confidence that, that business can continue to perform well. It's very well led. It's in a very good category of retailing. They've got good current results. So we think we've made reasonable assumptions with respect to Bath & Body Works. It won't be easy by any stretch, but it's a very well-led business and a great category retailing. And the recent results have been very good. The more fundamental assumption is the degree and rate of improvement for Lingerie and PINK. And we've tried to deal with that appropriately. But as you can appreciate, that's a hard judgment to make. Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about the International business, how are you planning investments in International and expectations for International in 2019 as compared to 2018?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Dana, first of all, there are multiple components of the International business as you can appreciate. So in terms of how we think about investment, and I would describe this first through the combination of our own company-owned businesses and then also the franchise and partner-owned businesses, we expect to grow the store count meaningfully in the International business in 2019 roundly opening between company-owned and partner-owned stores between 100 and, say, 120 stores. So that's good growth. We'll also -- as we do in our company-owned business in North America, we'll continue to close stores either based on lease expiration or as we open full assortment stores in nearby geography. But good growth in terms of store count for International. It is skewed towards the partner-owned businesses because we're moderating our growth at this stage for China, and we're not adding stores in the U.K. But good, strong store base growth for the International business in total, again, roundly between 100 and 120 stores and an ongoing growth in the digital part of that business as well, the online part of that business. So we think a good growth profile overall with an adjustment in growth in China as we learn more about the appropriate store size and format there. But strong growth online in China as well in 2019. In the U.K. right now, the opportunity is to drive more sales through the existing store footprint that we have.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is on Victoria's Secret Beauty. It had a pretty strong comp in the fourth quarter, mid-single digits. But you did call out that it didn't meet expectations and perhaps it was more promotional. So just looking for some hindsighting on Beauty and how you're thinking about it in 2019.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Beauty had a -- as you mentioned, Roxanne, in your question, Beauty had a solid 2018 and was so much stronger in the first part of the year than in the fourth quarter. And the opportunity for further improvement in that business is particularly focused on the prestige fragrance part of that business. And Greg is very focused on that. He and his team are very capable. And the differential growth opportunity or the hindsight from '18 that's particularly shaping the agenda for 2019 is to really -- to have more success in the pursuit of the prestige business. With that said, I think by last count, we've got 4 of the top 20 fragrances -- perfume fragrance sold, either globally or in the United States. So we're starting from a strong base. And probably most people don't know that we have 4 of the top 20. So it's a good strong business with good margin profile. But in terms of growth opportunity, we see the opportunity to accelerate growth in -- particularly in that part of the business. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Marni Shapiro with The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Just dovetailing actually a little bit on what Roxanne asked, but different segment, though. Could you give as an update on Victoria's Secret sport? It's been a little up and down, and you've used it as a promotional vehicle to drive traffic. I guess what's the thinking there today? And what should we expect going forward from that part of the brand?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Marni. So in the spirit of everything is on the table, John is taking a fresh, fresh look at that part of the business, obviously, at leisure. And sport is a key category of apparel retail. And intimate apparel sport bras are an important part of that segment. But what I'm confident about is that John will take a fresh hard look at it. We don't have anything further to announce about it today, but it's an important segment. And I know John will be taking a fresh hard look at it.
Amie Preston:
I think we'll take one last question.
Operator:
Your final question is from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
I wanted to just maybe get a few more details around the puts and takes on margins. Stuart, you mentioned that -- continue to have incremental promotions at VS to maybe start the year, at least that's the expectation in the 1Q guide. Just help us maybe understand what you see as the opportunity to get some stabilization there or any other initiatives that will improve the rate of gross margin as the year progresses. And at the same on SG&A, what are the puts and takes here that are leading to the guidance of just an increase of low single digits?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Paul. So the opportunity in margin rate at Victoria's, Lingerie, PINK and Beauty is a very substantial one. And we won't get all of that opportunity in 2019, but we would expect to make progress as we go through the year. But just to mention, the opportunity versus the record year of 2015, we're in the order of 5 or 6 percentage points versus 2015. So there's a very substantial opportunity. Am I, from that comment, suggesting we're going to get all of that in 2019? I am not. But through the focus on the customer and the focus on merchandise with ongoing disciplined management of inventories, there is a very substantial opportunity for margin in this business. And it starts and ends with that customer understanding and that strong management on the merchandise assortment. So that's the big-picture answer to your question or, in my view, the most important answer to your question. As we improve the merchandise assortment as we move through 2019, we would expect to see some improvement in year-on-year result on margin rate. But really, that's how I would address the question. Very substantial opportunity. Thanks, Paul.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul. Thanks to all for joining us this morning, and thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's earnings call. Thank you for your participation. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Heidi, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Third Quarter 2018 Earnings Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' Third Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, November 3, 2018.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings. Our third quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. As you know, 2017 was a 53-week year. All of the sales dollars, margin and operating income results discussed on this call are on a reported basis for the quarter ending November 3, 2018 versus October 28, 2017. Comparable sales are on a comparable calendar period, quarter ending November 3, 2018, versus 13-week period ended November 4, 2017. Additionally, all the results discussed on the call today our adjusted results and exclude the charges related to the closure of the Henri Bendel business and store impairments described in our press release. I'd also like to clarify that the fourth quarter and full-year sales-to-comp spread in our commentary yesterday excludes the extra week last year. Including the extra week, the sales-to-comp spread in the fourth quarter is negative 2 points and, for the full year, is 2 to 3 points. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO, and I will handle the call today. As you know, we have leadership transitions in the Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK businesses, and our other leaders are focused on executing the important holiday time period. Thanks, and now I turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. As outlined in the third quarter commentary that we released yesterday afternoon, the L Brands management team is very clear-minded about where we are. Parts of the business, Bath & Body Works, Victoria's Secret Beauty and our international franchise business are performing very well. However, our overall results are unacceptable, driven by declines in Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK.
We made some important decisions in the quarter, including the decision to close the Henri Bendel business, pursuing alternatives for La Senza and reducing our dividend and committing to deleverage to enable us to increase our focus on our core businesses and strengthen our company in the long term. Our #1 priority is improving performance at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK. We have new leadership in place or to come. Amy Hauk has joined the PINK business, and John Mehas will be joining us from Tory Burch in early 2019 to lead the Victoria's Secret Lingerie business. We're committed to a full review of the business. Everything is on the table, including our brand positioning, marketing, talent, real estate, cost structure and, most importantly, our merchandise assortments. By executing against our strategy, focusing on the fundamentals, staying close to our customers and leveraging the strength of our brands, we will deliver on our commitments for our stakeholders, customers, associates and shareholders. Thanks, and over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. In the interest of time and in consideration to others, please limit yourselves to one question.
Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Heidi.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] And your first question comes from the line of Alexandra Walvis with Goldman Sachs.
Alexandra Walvis:
You mentioned in the -- you mentioned that you were looking at some, potentially, bringing back some of the categories that you have been in before, including swimwear, footwear, eyewear. Could you talk us through a little bit what that might look like? Why the choice of pursuing those via licensing arrangements, for example?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks for the question. Well, it's an important decision and, fundamentally, a decision that reflects listening to our customers. We'll be back in the swim business in the spring of 2019. And as we shared in our circulated commentary, we're going to be entering some other exited categories. We've already begun marketing and selling of boots, for example, but also eyewear and other license businesses. And importantly, we'll be back in the swim business in 2019. Naturally, you would have follow-on questions about specifically when and how much and a quantification of those things. We are developing our plans in detail. Nothing more to share today. But again, a very important decision to re-enter some important businesses and pursue other growth initiatives through a licensing approach.
Operator:
From the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
You mentioned everything's on the table. I'm curious where you're putting your emphasis currently, spending your time. How is Les spending his time? And I'm also curious if all of this work is happening now on the Victoria's Secret side or if we have to wait until John gets there before we start to see maybe some changes. And also curious just about the decision for Les to not be on the call today.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So Paul, in terms of just taking a fresh, hard look at everything, I mean, it starts with decisions that we've announced. So eliminating losses related to noncore businesses, Bendel and La Senza previously announced. But important and aggregating to about $85 million of annual operating income, a big decision in part of "everything." The re-setting of the dividend to better match the operating results of the business in consultation and approved by the Board with outside advice, also a very important decision. But most importantly, as shared in the remarks and circulated remarks and even already this morning, the most important thing that we can do and that we're focused on is addressing the opportunities in the Victoria's Secret Lingerie and PINK businesses. And first and foremost, again, consistent with our mindset over a long period of time, it does start with the merchandise. Leadership is critical. We've got new -- Amie rejoining or joining the PINK business recently and John coming. You're asking if we're looking at everything now or whether some of that will wait. Certainly, everything is on the table, but understandably, some of these things will take more time than others, and some of them, importantly, will be led by -- the evaluations will be led by Amie and John, respectively. So broad in scope. Timing will depend on the nature of the opportunity. Not all these things will happen overnight, as you can appreciate. But importantly, nothing is off the table, meaning we are fundamentally looking at and will look at everything.
Amie Preston:
Les on the call.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Les on the call, we've got a good management team here, and I spend a lot of time with the Wall Street community and I'm comfortable representing the company in this forum. Les spends time with investors, and we'll have an investor update sometime in the first part of 2019, and certainly, Les will be critical and lead that update.
Operator:
Your next question is from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo Securities.
Irwin Boruchow:
Maybe, Stuart, for you. I guess, I wanted to ask about merch margins at Victoria's Secret and your promotional cadence in general. I guess, maybe could you talk about where -- I don't know how you want to maybe go into this, but maybe where your markdown rates are today versus history? And kind of maybe, is there or should there be a larger focus on inventory management within Victoria's and an AUR improvement, as you're kind of attempting to re-base this business and you bringing back swim and maybe get some traffic back in the stores? But just to kind of create a healthier VS business in which you can ultimately begin to grow against.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Ike. So in terms of merchandise margin rate and merchandise margin rate improvement opportunities, first and foremost, Ike, it starts with the quality of the merchandise. And what I mean by quality is the strength of the customer response to what we're offering her. And if it's fresh and new and compelling, obviously, your opportunity for full-price selling and healthy margins is very strong. And when we're running our businesses well, that's what we -- we're able to deliver. Bath & Body, for example, is delivering that now consistently. And Victoria's, in its periods where it's had its strongest performance, has also delivered that. So it really does start with the quality of the merchandise. With respect to what's going on now with respect to margin rates and an important connection that you make and, certainly, we make to inventory, margin rates, particularly in the PINK business, were pressured in the third quarter and deliberately so on our part. We launched the fall season with a distortion into bling, apparel with a lot of embellishment and a lot of investment in the product. The customer didn't respond to that in the way that we hoped for. We didn't get paid for that investment. And we very aggressively took markdowns to clear through much of that inventory in the third quarter, which put a lot of pressure on the PINK margin rate, which had a big impact on the overall segment margin rate. In addition, that investment in the product drove our average unit costs up, and again, as I mentioned, we didn't get paid for it. So a lot of pressure in the PINK margin rate in the third quarter because we took a risk going into the fall season about -- a merchandise idea about embellished bling in apparel, I'm summarizing, and didn't get paid for that. But once we saw that, our view was, let's clear it. Let's get through it. Let's adjust this quickly as we can. Amie has been very focused on that since joining the business, adjusting the assortment as quickly as possible. As you know, things got short lead times and a mindset to adjust quickly, and they have, but it put a lot of pressure on the margin rate. And importantly, PINK ending the third quarter, moving through substantially all that inventory, the AUC pressure will go on a bit more into the fourth quarter because we haven't sold through all those bits, but substantially all of them. Our commitment to inventory management, Ike, has been strong over a long period of time. We certainly made some investments in the lingerie business through the last couple of years, some of which paid off, some of which have not. But as we've indicated previously and reiterating today in this update, we're very committed to ending the year with inventory in a good position quantitatively and qualitatively. And it does put -- to get to that place, put some pressure on the margin rate. All that said, I'd just come back to the beginning, is leveraging our speed capabilities, which we have substantially developed over the last 10 years and based on the quality of the merchandise, those are the key drivers of driving rate and dollar growth in the business. And the business is very focused on the assortment. So that'd be our mindset. Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Andrew North:
This is Drew North on for Mark Altschwager. Folding up all the changes that you've announced thus far, meaning the closure of Henri Bendel, the potential actions on La Senza, the asset impairments, along with the fact that you're lapping the Angel Card reallocation and incremental wage investments, do you see a path to stable EBIT margin next year? And then as a follow-up on that, how should we think about the margin architecture for the Henri Bendel and La Senza businesses as those operating losses go away? Is that a bigger benefit to gross margin or the SG&A build?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. Thanks, Drew. Generally, with respect to 2019 views, as you know, we'll provide detail about that in February. So not going to get ahead of ourselves with respect to a '19 view of the P&L and operating income rates and so on. With that said, there's substantial opportunity to improve the profit rate in the business. The question will be the time frame that it takes to achieve that. There have been significant operating income rate pressure in the Victoria's Secret segment, driven in meaningful part by both margin rate -- merchandise margin rate decline and deleverage of occupancy and SG&A expenses. In terms of the Bendel impact, the most important impact is the elimination of that loss that I commented on earlier of an aggregate about $85 million. As to how that breaks by line, we'll detail that if it's material as we do our guidance for 2019 in February. Other aspects for the question?
Amie Preston:
No.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Hopefully, Drew, that's helpful to you. But the biggest operating income rate improvement is, obviously, related to the Victoria's Secret North America business. Again, in terms of a decline versus peak, not quite equal parts but pretty close between merchandise margin rate decline and expense deleverage. Volume will solve that, along with some work on rationalizing real estate where we can and a fresh, hard look at the cost structure that we alluded to in our circulated remarks. Thanks.
Operator:
And your next question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was curious about the international business, I guess, for VS. Have you seen the same underperformance, particularly in the Intimates business, that you've seen in the U.S.? And then also, I guess, if you have -- if you have not, I guess, what's the difference there that you think is driving international to perform better?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Susan, the short answer to your question is, generally speaking, we have seen the same challenges with respect to the Intimates business in the international markets as we've seen in the United States. So the challenges we've seen in the States have also played through in the U.K. and other parts of the world.
Operator:
And your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick with RBC.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, Stuart, curious maybe if you can share with us a little maybe the Board's thinking about what John brings to the table. Obviously, Jan from Spanx and Nike, just maybe give us a sense of what John brings to the table, why he's the right guy now, given all these changes. And then secondly, maybe, Stuart, talk about the balance sheet and maybe whether a leverage ratio. But sort of like what are the contexts that you're looking at here, before maybe equity shareholders might get any of the free cash flow after the debt paydown?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So as it relates to John, Brian, you've been following the industry for a long time, been following us for a long time. You know how important the merchant leadership is in these businesses. It's just so critical. And the management team here was very -- tried to be very thoughtful and considered the decision very closely as we evaluated leadership for both PINK and Lingerie. As to John specifically, he is a very accomplished retail leader. He's got a very strong reputation with those that he's worked with most closely. He's worked in some of the most successful and with the most successful retail leaders in the industry and in periods of time, whether it was at the Gap or at Ralph Lauren, periods of time where those businesses had very strong results in their heydays, if you will. He has served female customers for meaningful and substantial parts of his career. John has got very strong business acumen. He's got a lot of substance. He's been involved in and led turnaround and high-growth situations. And in summary, Brian, we're very pleased that John will be joining the business. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Balance sheet.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
And with respect to balance sheet, we're not formulaic about it, Brian. But obviously, the ratios, whether it's the dividend payout ratio, the yield, the adjusted leverage ratios, have gone out of the historic ranges for us. And so the Board, again, with outside advice and very deliberately considered by the Board and approved by the Board, we made an important decision to reduce the dividend from $2.40 annually to $1.20. In terms of the cash freed up -- and some of this will be dynamic, obviously, as operating results play out over the next few years, but deliberate discussion about what we'll do with that cash. And as indicated in our commentary, in the release and in our circulated commentary, that freed-up cash will be used principally to reduce debt in the near term. We're more comfortable with a leverage ratio in the mid-3s. Again, not formulaic about it, but it's risen meaningfully as the operating result in the business has declined and made an important decision to re-set those things over the next few years with the decision, beginning in March, to reduce the dividend. As to how and when some of that freed-up cash gets back to shareholders, obviously, our long history has been to return excess cash to shareholders, as you know, through a combination of regular dividends, special dividends and share repurchase activity but, at this time, felt it appropriate to make the adjustments we've made. Thanks.
Operator:
And your next question comes from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
Two things you said in the release, one was about international and the real estate strategy there. So I was wondering if you can just talk about how much flexibility you have with your real estate strategy internationally and what that might look like? And then the second one, which you talked about, Victoria's Secret reassessing internal talent. And so I was wondering if there's other things you expect we should look for in terms of key roles to be filled or changed.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
On international real estate, first and foremost, we've had some important learning from our recent results. So as it relates to opening new stores, the number of stores, the size of stores, et cetera, we made, I think, significant adjustments in terms of what we're doing for company-owned markets for Victoria's Secret, meaning smaller stores and a substantial reduction in activity at this time. So that's the first point I'd want to register. The second point I'd want to register, and I think it's the thrust of your question, is what can we do? What are our real, practical options with respect to existing real estate? And as you appreciate in the question, some of the lease terms internationally tend to be longer lease terms. Most of the lease terms, for example, in the U.K. are 15-year leases versus the more typical 10-year leases in the United States or Canada. So we don't have as much flexibility. But with that said, we're going to take a hard look at it. We're taking a hard look at it. We'll continue that review over the next several months, and it's an important part of the management of the business. But again, I would also reemphasize the first part, which is as it relates to further real estate activity, opening new stores and the size and nature of stores that we continue to open, we've made some important adjustments in China; smaller format stores and a meaningful reduction in CapEx for Victoria's Secret in the United States, in Canada and the U.K. with a very substantial reduction. On the flip side of it, we continue to invest in Bath & Body Works remodels because the performance of those projects, the return of those projects has been very, very good. And we continue to see about 20% sales growth with respect to those projects and, as we've mentioned consistently, a much stronger experience for the consumer and setting the business up well for the next 10 years, if you will, in terms of a fresh, relevant, compelling environment for customers. So important adjustments in Victoria's. Some lack of flexibility based on lease term, but we will take a hard look at it. Adjustments there in terms of learning for Victoria's and a continuation of investment at Bath & Body, again, given the strong, positive response from customers translating through to sales and a good economic result for that business.
Amie Preston:
And Jamie, the reference to talent in the Victoria's Secret portion was really just referring to the changes in leadership with Amie and John.
Operator:
And your next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, I wanted to ask about the traffic-driving promotions that are going on at Victoria's Secret. Obviously, there will be promotions and markdowns to clear through product mistakes, and we would expect that those would remain over time. And hopefully, the mistakes will just -- will lessen with time. But that's just one piece of it. On the traffic-driving promos, that also seems to be eating away at the merchandise margin, and I'm wondering what are the criteria that you're looking for that would give Victoria's Secret confidence to step away from those traffic-driving promos? Is it a certain level of store comp? Is it a certain level of store traffic? And then as you evaluate your real estate portfolio, particularly here in the U.S. where you've got a great deal of flexibility, what are the criteria that you're considering whether or not to close those stores?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So Kimberly, on promotions at Victoria's Secret, the first and, I guess, the most fundamental answer to your question is on the most significant promotions, what we do is we test them. And we test them in a set of stores and compare the results from those tests to balance the chain and match stores. And what we're looking for is incremental sales and incremental margin dollars. So that's a critical input to a decision about the need to drive promotions into the store or traffic into the store. We also try to more qualitatively access impact on brand and also, separately, look at the need to drive trial and acquire new customers. But in terms of hard evaluation, we test the most significant promotions, and we look at, are we getting a better result or not in terms of sales and margin dollars? Obviously, you appreciate, you mentioned in your comments, there can be periods of time where we're driving particularly intensive amounts of promotion of declared goods and clear mistakes. But as it relates to just driving footfall into the stores, it's -- does it drive sales, margin dollars, trial, customer acquisition? Most important criteria are financial ones versus balance a chain or match stores. So that's how we think about them. With respect to real estate, fundamentally in the United States, fundamentally, it's a financial decision but it's one that considers sales transfer of nearby stores and to a lesser extent, we're getting more learning on this, any sales transfer that may go to the online or direct business. So it is simply what are the costs to exit a store and how does that relate to the ongoing cash flow effect of the store in question and the sales transfer to nearby stores. So principally, a financial evaluation with some qualitative assessment based on quality of venue and looking at things over the prediction over the next 2 or 3 years felt in a particular trade area or venue. We have been doing -- as you know, Kimberly, we close a lot of stores every year. We're doing some more purpose testing for Victoria's around closing some stores that may not be as obvious financially but really observing the sales transfer effects. We have rules of thumb. We've closed a lot of stores over time, but we're pursuing a little bit more of a learning agenda there in a couple of situations that we might not naturally close to see if the expected sales transfer results hold up in these few tests. But it's a financial decision fundamentally. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
You have emphasized in the release and comments this morning that merchandise sounds like the root of the VS and PINK issues. If maybe you can just elaborate a bit more on what the customer feedback and response has been regarding what hasn't worked or, perhaps, what steps need to be taken, where -- what your areas of focus are in terms of taking steps to improve the merchandise. And then separately, if you can give just a little bit more, Stuart, on puts and takes on the margins kind of by segment, right? So in BBW, just kind of what's working there? And how should we think about the ability to continue to see further progress in overall operating income? And then on the VS side, you mentioned the PINK impact. Can you quantify that at all? And how should we think about overall markdowns versus occupancy shrink and other factors that may have impacted margins?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on the merchandise, fundamentally, it comes back to -- and I apologize if this seems basic or obvious, and I'll try to provide some examples to bring it to life in our business. If it's fresh, new, distinct, compelling, she responds well to it, and we get paid for that work through volume and pricing. Examples within Victoria's Secret would be the T-shirt bra, which has been a very, very strong success. Selling in the mid-$20 range, been priced up multiple times, has Victoria's Secret prominently as part of its look on many of the straps that are sewn on that bra in terms of her interest in the brand and been a terrific success. Another example of success would be the Illusion bra within Victoria's Secret, which sells in the mid-$30s, so a higher-priced bra. And it's got a fabric and a fit and a feel that is well-received by the customer and has driven a lot of volume at a very healthy margin rate. So those would be 2 examples within the bra business at Victoria's that have worked very well. Conversely, where we've got bra franchises where we haven't had enough innovation recently, the Body by Victoria franchise or the Angels collection within the bra business, we've had softer results and more challenged results, and we've had to take pricing down and be more promotional to drive reasonable volume, et cetera, in those businesses. The sleep business at Victoria's, an area of distortion for us this fall and very relevant to this time of year. Very strong consumer response to that assortment. It's been heavily tested. We're making a big investment in that business this fall. And based on testing, we're optimistic that we will deliver meaningful growth at a healthy margin in that business. In the beauty business, Greg has had 6 quarters of positive comps in that business and margin dollar results getting stronger and stronger with a potential for a very good fall season. Driven a very good mist business there, leveraging speed and fashion in that business and the customer responding well; having some good, strong fragrance launches, fine fragrance launches in that business. So we've got examples of things within Victoria's that are working well that I've provided, and then we've got some other examples that are not. The bling business in PINK took a point of view from a fashion standpoint, and the customer didn't respond the way that we hoped. And the fleece business has been soft there as well. And then, again, on the other side, you always have things that are working and that aren't. The sport business within PINK is working well; sleep in that business also working well; and sherpa, and this is a broad-based trend in the industry, but our offerings in sherpa selling through very well with a very strong response to it. So that's kind of how it goes on the merchandise, and that's why it's so important is how do we make sure that we're very close to the customer? How do we leverage our speed capabilities to have more of the good stuff and less of the bad stuff? And that all starts with merchant leadership and strong execution of fundamentals in these businesses. With respect to puts and takes on margin, there are a lot of puts and takes. I think, sensing from your question, Bath & Body broadly, has just had a very strong run and the team there are working hard to continue that into the important fourth quarter and beyond into 2019. Importantly, they're having strong business in each of their major merchandise categories, so hitting on all cylinders, if you will. Not complacent about that in any respect. They're working very hard to continue that trend. And when you're hitting on all cylinders, as they have been, you're able to reduce your degree of promotion accordingly and still get a very strong overall result. In terms of what's reflected in our fourth quarter guidance, we have a little bit more of a conservative assumption just going into the fourth quarter, and on their margin rate, we'll hope to do better than that. Obviously, the business is incented, and we'll work hard to strike the right balance in promotion. And there might be a little bit of upside there, depending upon how things go, a lot of business yet to do in the fourth quarter. But there are a lot of puts and takes on margin rates. Obviously, ongoing pressure in the Victoria's segment. And again, I tried to provide a little background just now on our assumptions for what -- the results of what happened in the third quarter for BBW and our mindset as we go into the fourth quarter. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Most of my questions on VS side of the business have been asked and answered. I wanted to ask about BBW, though, as you go through the re-set on the Victoria's Secret side of the business. It's great that the strength in BBW, the margins, the growth rates. As you think about some of the pitfalls that hit VS that you're now reevaluating with everything on the table, how do you ensure the Bath & Body Works business stays -- strength continues, gives you the flexibility to do what you need to do on the Victoria's Secret side? Some of the pitfalls on the Victoria's Secret side, how do you keep that from happening in the BBW side? And any sort of insights into, I mean, how that business continues to grow the way it does, new customers versus deeper spend from existing customers, the reliance on promotions, et cetera?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Omar, it's a good question, and it's one that we think about a lot. As -- in backdrop or a reminder on Victoria's, for meaningful periods, years through 2015 for Victoria's, PINK was driving the majority of growth in that business. And I mentioned that as it relates to your question on BBW about how do we make sure, how does that team make sure, and Nick and team are very focused on this, how do we make sure that we're delivering balanced growth and appropriate growth in all of the major books of business? And so, as you know, that home fragrance business within Bath & Body has been so strong and driven just outstanding growth. And the management team there, led by Nick, are very focused on how do they make sure that they continue to have strong results in their books of business beyond home fragrance, the original core of the business in terms of body care. And as I commented on a minute ago, one of the really encouraging things is through that focus. And they don't always get it exactly right, but they drove a lot of change in 2017 and then more change from learning in '17 into '18, now are having very good results, in addition to home fragrance, in the body care business, in the hand soap business, in the giftable parts of their businesses. So first and foremost, it's about making sure that you have balanced growth, meaningful growth in your major categories of business. But really, even before that, it is about the stability and capability of the management team. And Les, Nick, very focused on that, the Board focused on that in terms of how do we ensure that we have the right leadership and, where appropriate, that we have the right stability in that leadership. So those would be thoughts. I think the other mindset within Bath & Body, and I'd like to think this is true for the whole company, but I think Bath & Body does it particularly well, is just very regular testing in the business, whether it's about a new product acceptance or key promotions or key time periods or, for that matter, selling models or selling concepts or things that they do in the online business. This mindset of taking risk, testing, learning, adjusting quickly to drive the business, I think Bath & Body particularly executes those tests very, very well and it's an important ingredient to their success. So hopefully, Omar, that gives you some backdrop on how we think about it. Thanks. Yes.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of William Reuter with Bank of America.
William Reuter:
My question is, you talked about an absolute reduction in debt, but you don't have a lot of debt that's callable. You do have a couple of bonds that come due over the next couple of years. I guess, would you consider taking those out ahead of their maturity date? Or I guess, how would you go about reducing your debt?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Most of it will come through the normal financing activities. So we've got $2.6 billion worth of debt coming due over the next few years. And as we roll that debt over, we'll be reducing amounts outstanding as those maturities come. There will be select opportunities to reduce debt in advance of maturities. And where it makes economic sense to do so, and that's a complicated evaluation that I think you probably appreciate, we will pursue those opportunities where it makes economic sense. But most of it will likely happen as debt comes due. Thanks. Yes.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Ross Collins:
This is Ross Collins on for Oliver. Just on the VS side, we'd just love to hear any thoughts around your digital strategy in terms of what's working versus where the biggest opportunity might lie in terms of connecting with both current and prospective customers. And then, just more broadly, how do you think about your digital platform versus your store base in terms of engaging or re-engaging new or lapsed customers? And then secondly, just a clarification on leverage -- the financial leverage target. Was that a gross or a net debt-to-EBITDA figure?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So on our digital business at Victoria's and digital strategy, I think as you appreciate, we view it first in terms of where we are today as a very strong and successful business. The penetration rate is high. Again, for L Brands, in total, over $2 billion of online business, I think, underappreciated by the marketplace because we also have a meaningful store business. But we have a $2 billion online business at a very high profit rate. We think one of the disclosures are not consistent externally, but we believe and we've commented on the profitability of our online business at north of 20% EBIT rate. So substantial in size, highly profitable and growing at a very healthy rate. So just important to register all that, and I realize I'm doing a bit of a commercial there, but it's important to understand that about our business. The next thing I would say about the business is that we are investing meaningfully in that business. And in fact, as we reviewed our capital spending plans with the Board recently, we expect to double the investment in the digital business in 2019 versus 2018. So substantial investment in that business. You may be aware that the largest technology, most significant technology project that we've got going in our company right now is the re-platforming of the Victoria's Secret digital business that will enable us to do a lot of things for the customer that, at present, we're not able to do. Things like buy online, pick up in store, fulfilling from multiple DCs, other benefits for the consumer, including globally, those things will be rolling out over the next couple of years. But we're re-platforming that site today. So very healthy business. There are functions that are available to the consumer that others provide that we'll be pursuing over the next couple of years. But again, we are making very substantial investment in that part of our business. Second part of your question was about -- Amie, I'm trying to remember.
Amie Preston:
Leverage.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Oh, leverage ratio. So that is -- we look at it on a...
Amie Preston:
Adjusted debt-to-EBITDA.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. He's asking about net versus gross of cash, though.
Amie Preston:
Yes. Looking for it.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, we look at it -- thank you, Amie. We look at it on a gross basis. Thanks. And again, we're not overly formulaic about it. But again, our ratios are higher than they have been, and we believe it appropriate to reduce the overall debt level and return to ratios closer to where they were in, say, 2015. We'll do that over the next few years. Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Adrienne Yih with Wolfe Research.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Stuart, so my question's twofold. One is on merchandise. So the decision to exit swim, to re-enter it in some format next year, the miss on bling, in the past, you've done testing and sort of more reading and reacting to how the customer would respond to such movement. Wondering if -- what's telling you to go back into swim now? And how is that decision made amongst the kind of senior level management? Secondarily, on the inventory, it's been up in the mid- to high-teens and I assume distorted more so at Victoria's Secret. When you bring that "in line," I think you said with sales at the end of the year, should we expect the AUR will be better but that the comp at VS would probably decelerate? We've seen many retailers kind of go for profit maximization, and that's sort of in the result.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So on swim, we are where we are. I'm not going to spend a lot of time looking back, frankly. I mean, you can look back and learn, but I'm not going to go into that at length. As to why we made the decision that we did it, fundamentally, it's about what the customer is telling us. And again, one could question the original decision. Again, the decision at that time was to focus our energy and our resources on our most critical categories, that being bras and panties at Victoria's Secret Lingerie. But as we evaluate the situation today, a very important decision and we believe a good one, to re-enter the swim business again, driven principally by customer feedback that we've received. So -- and again, there will be more to come on that as we further develop and detail out our plan for 2019. With respect to inventory levels and merchandise margin rates, again, the driving commitment for us as we work through the fall season and ensure that we're in a good position to have a strong 2019 is we're going to end inventory clean quantitatively and qualitatively. And yes, you're right to observe that, at times, that can put pressure on the margin rate. And we saw that some in the third quarter with PINK as they moved through goods that they needed to move through. But again we want to, from a customer point of view, we want to start with a fresh, compelling assortment as you begin important time periods as -- and working to do that as we start this fourth quarter for PINK. And we'll ensure that, for the business in total, that, that's how we end 2019 -- or excuse me, 2018, as we get started into 2019. The amount of pressure on margin rates will be something to see as we move through the quarter. Thanks.
Operator:
Your final question then comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Stuart, I was just wondering if you could talk a little bit more about the PINK business. You talked about clearing out the loungewear that you didn't -- you know, was a bad bet you didn't get paid on. Do you feel like now the assortments are more in line with where they should be or, like the Victoria's Secret Lingerie business, there's a lot of work to be done there? I just hope to get your perspective on the degree of turnaround effort that will be required to bring growth back to PINK.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Janet, just in candor, that's one of the hardest things for anybody to evaluate, which is probably why you're asking about it. And I respect the question. What I do know is that Amie is a very talented leader that has spent 10 years with us and a lot of time prior to that in this industry. And her curiosity, her energy, her action orientation, her understanding of the business end-to-end is very, very strong. With that said, Rome wasn't built in a day, as you appreciate. And so do I believe that Amie is making a difference? Absolutely. Do -- can we predict when that translates through to sales growing 5% to 10% and margin rates up meaningfully year-on-year? I think the time will tell as to the time frame involved in that. But what I do know is that Amie, along with some others that are very talented within the PINK team, are very focused and working it very hard. But it's a really hard question to answer. The good news is we give the -- our investors regular updates on our business, and we'll be sure to be commenting on progress in the PINK business through the fourth quarter. Thanks. Appreciate it.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. That concludes our call this morning. Thank you for joining us. We'd like to wish everyone a very happy Thanksgiving.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Shelbey, and I'll be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2018 Earnings Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' Second Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, August 4, 2018.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our second quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are available on our website, www.lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Denise Landman, CEO of PINK; Jan Singer, CEO of Victoria's Secret Lingerie; Greg Unis, CEO of Victoria's Secret Beauty; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, CEO of International, are all joining us today. As you know, 2017 was a 53-week year. All of the sales dollars, margin and operating income results discussed in this commentary are on a reported basis for the quarter ending August 4, 2018, versus July 19, 2017. Comparable sales are on a comparable calendar period for the quarter ending August 4, 2018, versus August 5, 2017. Thanks. And now I'll turn it over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone.
Our second quarter earnings per share of $0.36 exceeded our initial earnings guidance of $0.30 to $0.35 and benefited by about $0.02 from a favorable tax rate. Absent the impact of the lower-than-forecasted tax rate, we delivered an earnings per share result toward the higher end of our range, as strong performance at Bath & Body Works and Victoria's Secret Beauty offset weak results at PINK and Victoria's Secret Lingerie. We're not satisfied with this result and are very focused on improving performance at Victoria's Secret. As detailed in our commentary released yesterday afternoon, we are reducing our earnings forecast for the year to $2.45 per share to $2.70 per share from the previous $2.70 to $3, principally driven by a deceleration in PINK. Our guidance includes identified expense reductions as well as the previously announced investment in incremental wages and benefits for our hourly workforce of approximately $100 million. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Denise.
Denise Landman:
Thank you, Stuart. Turning to PINK, comps decreased in the mid-single-digit range for the second quarter. We saw declines in some segments of the lingerie and loungewear business. Swim, which we are exiting, continues to negatively impact performance by 2 comp points in the quarter. Total merchandise margins were also unfavorable.
Comps began moderating towards the end of Q2 with the introduction of the new floor set, enabling an explosive PINK Friday event. Although we have seen benefits from emerging businesses such as sport bras and apparel, outerwear and embellished product, the lounge fleece business has been particularly soft. The back-to-school floor set represents an important time frame for taking critical reads of all segments of the business, enabling us to leverage our speed and agility models to make rapid adjustments to our go-forward assortment. In closing, we shared a decision last night that I plan to retire at the end of the year. This is not an easy decision, but I believe it's the right thing for me and part of my personal journey to spend more time with my family. I feel incredibly fortunate to have been part of the PINK brand since its inception and L Brands for nearly 20 years. It's been a privilege to lead and be surrounded by such incredible talent, thinking and creativity. And it inspires me every day. I'm pleased to share that the organization's commitment to PINK remains strong, and that Amy Hauk, BBW President of Merchandising and Brand Development, will join PINK as CEO, October 1. Amy is an experienced merchant and well positioned to lead PINK. With BBW for nearly a decade, Amy has deep roots and a strong understanding of our enterprise. I have great respect for Amy, and I know you will be in good hands as will the PINK organization. Thank you, and I'll turn it over to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Denise. As you read in the pre-circulated materials, we have more to do to deliver long-term growth and profitability. I remain confident as what's new in the assortment is what's working, and we are very focused on leveraging these learnings to accelerate our progress going forward.
We see signs of progress in Illusion, one of our highest AUR constructed bras, and it's margin accretive. It's a bra with benefits balanced with fashion, and it continues to meet and beat plan. T-shirt bra also continues to see double-digit increases and building in sales on fewer frames and after 3 price increases. Total panty sales are up mid-single digits and positive for the third consecutive quarter. Speed, agility and fashion are fueling that book of business. And the key adjacent categories we've added back, like sleep, are seeing growth and are critical to creating new loyals as these categories flow more frequently and attach to bras. Again, while we've made progress in critical spaces, we still have more to do to close the gap created with changes taken in 2016, particularly the gap in key franchises and building back high-value, dual-channel customers. Thank you for joining us this morning. I'm handing it over now to Greg Unis.
Greg Unis:
Thank you, Jan. As you read in our prepared remarks, the beauty business saw strong second quarter performance in sales and margin, with comps in the high teens range coming from both stores [indiscernible]. Q2 marked our fifth consecutive quarter of [indiscernible] positive comps.
Throughout the quarter, we saw strong growth from our declared priorities. Specifically, we drove growth through fashion, fueling double-digit growth in our men's collection category and also accessories, delivering on-trend newness to our customer. In fragrance, we were pleased with our continued momentum of our Bombshell franchise; and in July, the successful relaunch of Tease, our #2 fragrance and a top fragrance in the country. Throughout the spring, we drove growth in Bombshell, our #1 scent, while also successfully launching Bombshell Seduction and our limited edition scent, Bombshell Summer. At the end of July, we relaunched Tease with an updated look, which has delivered strong results for the month of August. Today, in stores and online, we launched Tease Rebel, an edgy new sister to our iconic Tease fragrance. The expansion of the Tease franchise supports our focus to make big bigger and to build out fragrance collections that our customer loves. In our new PINK beauty business, we remain very optimistic. Q2 results were strong, and we will continue to invest in the business. Look for PINK beauty to get even more exciting this season as we test new store formats, presentations and product. Overall, we are very excited and optimistic about what is in store for the remainder of Q3 and into the holiday season, when beauty becomes an even more important part of the overall business. We remain confident in our business model, our team and our continued growth throughout 2018. Thank you for joining this morning, and I will now hand it over to Nick Coe to share his thoughts.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Greg, and good morning, everyone. First, let me say at Bath & Body Works, we are very pleased with our second quarter results. Sales grew by 12%, and operating income grew by 8% in the quarter. And that's on top of last year's second quarter record results.
I'm pleased to see that the efforts we undertook in 2017 to reinvent and focus on the management of the product life cycle have led to greater product successes in 2018, creating growth and momentum in the business. True to my comments at the end of Q1, in Q2, we continued to experience pressure in buying and occupancy from our store remodels and SG&A from our wage investments. Those are not negatives. Those, coupled with product life cycle focus, are clearly brand-building initiatives that are positively moving our business forward and driving growth trajectory. Investments in our associates, our direct distribution capabilities and our real estate are creating healthy business in both channels and an overall younger fleet of stores. These initiatives will continue to drive expense pressure in the back half, but they are setting us up for continued success. In summary, we are pleased with the progress and the investments we've made, which are making us optimistic about the third quarter and our potential. Our business trends are positive, and we are focused on continuing to deliver great assortments to our customers. Thank you, and I'll now turn the conversation over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everyone.
As I look back on our international business' performance in the second quarter at a high level, I'd make 3 observations. First, the franchise businesses, BBW, VSFA and VSBA, are all doing well, with good sales and operating income growth. Secondly, we continue to invest in China, which we believe will [Audio Gap] market for us. We continue to experience strong growth in the direct-to-consumer business, and we opened 3 additional full assortment stores in the second quarter, including a flagship store in Hong Kong. And finally, the U.K. business continues to be challenged. We have more work to do there under a new leader who joined the business a month ago. In the balance of 2018, our priorities continue to be continuing to scale in China, improving our performance in the U.K., and continuing to build on the success of our partner-owned stores around the world. Thanks, and over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from Mark Altschwager of Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I'm curious about the divergence between VS Beauty trends and the VS Lingerie. And you discussed increased promotional activity to drive traffic, but with high teens comps in beauty, I would suggest that maybe traffic isn't that big of a problem in the stores. So just any color on what's driving that. And then as we head into the holiday season, where beauty does over index, any thoughts on how you leverage the better product acceptance there to drive transactions across the broader assortment?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mark. We'll start with Greg.
Greg Unis:
Yes. We've been talking about what's working. And in beauty, it's really been stemming from our strategy on testing and learning. We have a tremendous speed model behind us in our supply chain, so we're able to chase into the things that are working. And ultimately, it's really come from tremendous focus and really focused on fewer bigger ideas. Ultimately, it's with the customer and the brand at the center.
In terms of integration of beauty and lingerie, what we're finding is that the customer is increasingly buying a combined basket, which for us as a brand, is really a strong strategic point. And so we like how the 2 categories work together. And for those people who've been in our stores, you'll see that beauty and lingerie are more and more integrated together as a total shopping experience.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Greg. Jan, do you have any thoughts?
Jan Singer:
Sure. I'll just build on that a little bit. I would say that the assortment in lingerie is very broad. Beauty is, for the right reasons and should be as a category, very focused and has been reset beautifully, and it's getting great traction. I think that we're all really pleased with the progress. In lingerie, we're resetting franchise by franchise. We're seeing great progress on the things that we are resetting. And what Greg is saying is that the bundling together is happening. We promote together. We create awareness together. We are 1 brand with 2 different businesses. We feel really good about that. The differentiation is us building back our high-value customers who buy bras in particular franchises, and that's the work of the work right now.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen of Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Our question is about helping us contrast the opportunities of bras at the VS business relative to the lingerie opportunity at PINK. Just curious about timing, customer reception and what we should expect in understanding the nature of those 2 issues would help us illuminate what's possible going forward.
Amie Preston:
So Oliver, I want to make sure we understand your question. Are you asking about performance of bras at lingerie versus PINK?
Oliver Chen:
Yes. I was just curious about the bra opportunity at VS and how you would contrast that against the PINK lingerie opportunity and sort of helping us contrast those and -- because that would help us understand it better and also get a sense of timing and supply versus demand and understanding the nature of the opportunity.
Denise Landman:
I would say in PINK, this is Denise speaking, that we are coming from 2 very different places. PINK has a relatively underdeveloped bra business, which we've work hard over the past several years to leverage and expand upon, and have found recent successes with our incursion into the sport bra category, which we continue to be excited about. That drives our penetrations to levels that are certainly higher than they've been historically. But the PINK business is not completely centered around the lingerie business as the VS Lingerie business is. So we start from very different vantage points. I do think, secondarily, the assortment architecture seeks to differentiate itself and message itself in ways that are very centric to the core population of customers that we're both speaking to, and we acknowledge that we're speaking to 2 different sets of customers. So product differentiation, how the business has evolved, our starting point versus lingerie's, I think, are fairly central to your question. And I hope that I've answered it accurately.
Oliver Chen:
Yes. I guess on the PINK side, how quickly can you fix it? And what do you think we should focus on as timing? And what happens here, just more simply and directly on PINK?
Denise Landman:
I don't know that fix is the right word. We've been developing both core bra business through what you might be aware of as the lens of Wear Everywhere and have made inroads, as I just mentioned, into the sport bra business as an essential adjacency. There has been residual bralette volume in our baseline that we're working our way through. I don't consider that baseline reference point to be an impediment to the brand's ability to grow strongly into the category in the future.
Amie Preston:
Jan, do you have anything to add on?
Jan Singer:
I think Denise said it well. I mean, the percentage of our business in bras is different. Our approach is different. Our customer -- it all really comes down to customer at the center. And if you really are building product with the insight of who she is, we come from this in very different place. Pricing is different. So I think Denise covered it, unless Oliver has more questions.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Great. Thanks. Thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Paul Trussell of Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Just wanted to get some additional color on the August commentary about PINK, in particular where there was a little bit of a slowdown. And if you can also just help us understand the thought process around low single-digit comps in 3Q, just given the more difficult compare, and whether or not there is an expected turn in the 2-year of the VS comps versus just continued strength at BBW.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. We'll go to Stuart for that, Paul.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Paul, with respect to August for L Brands in total and the major pieces of L Brands, August is running pretty consistent with the Q2 and recent results. So the pattern is continuing or is consistent in August to date versus recent results.
With respect to our assumptions in the third quarter and the fourth quarter, both with respect to comps and margin dollar year-on-year results, again, implicit in our guidance are assumptions that would suggest that results are pretty consistent with recent results. Obviously, the team is working hard to do better than that. But as an overall modeling comment, we're assuming a balance-of-year result that's generally consistent with recent actual results, both sales and margin dollars.
Paul Trussell:
And then just to follow up on that. Maybe a bit more big picture, and for Denise, first of all, congrats and best wishes on your retirement. But I'm really curious in your view, just given your tenure there, in the state of the industry and how you view competition and the meaningful impact of digital. And also, just what is the -- what is it that the young millennial customer is responding to from a merchandise and marketing standpoint? And to what extent is PINK and Victoria's Secret on top of those trends?
Denise Landman:
So this is Denise. I'll answer the question as best I can. It's an extensive conversation. I do not think, nor do I think anyone in this room believes that PINK has lost its ability to connect astutely with customers and drive excitement in our core constituency. We had, as I mentioned earlier, a very explosive PINK Friday moment, which is celebratory to all things PINK. And that moment, in my mind, and for the folks that work around me and the brand, has edified the exuberance that consumers feel for our product when we create these celebratory moments.
The issue of how well or effectively we're competing in the market, I think, from the mix point of view, we're competing fairly effectively. I think there is, as I mentioned, a fleece business that, due to what we believe is very much a mindset, a consumer mindset of buy now, wear now, which is delaying her inclination, if you would, to buy into more seasonally appropriate product, has reflected in our fleece performance in recent times. But there are many, many healthy and emerging sectors of the business, which are, in some cases, on top of the market and then, in some cases, ahead of the market that we believe we can continue to mine for true benefit from. And that's, I think, as succinct an answer I can give you to a very expansive question.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Denise.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger of Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Great. My question is for Stuart. Stuart, I wanted to ask about inventory, which has been growing faster than sales here for the last 3 or 4 quarters. And I know that looked at on a 2-year basis, inventory is more flattish. But on a 2-year basis, sales are down, not flattish. So if we looked at both sales and inventory on a 2-year basis, we'd still find inventory running kind of well ahead of sales. And I'm wondering if there's been a philosophical change just in the way that you manage inventory. Or if there are other some strategies that are entering the inventory conversation that maybe we're not aware of on the outside that are causing you to want to make some of those investments? If you could just sort of add some insight there, that would be really helpful.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Kimberly. Appreciate that. It's a big subject, important subject. Four or five points I'd want to make. The first is, in terms of where we expect to end the fall season, we're expecting to end the fall season up low single digit and maybe a little lower than that. So flat to up low single digit, that's where we expect to end the fall season, first point.
Second point would be our view of growing inventory at the rate of sales or slower than sales to improve turn. Our philosophy, our belief around that has not changed. Obviously, with growth in international business and a lot of change in a dynamic situation, I'll describe it, at lingerie and at PINK, Victoria's Secret Lingerie and at PINK, the situation, given the degree of movement in it, has been a little bit more challenging to manage. We are a very focused, as you know, to clear seasonal inventories twice a year aggressively through our semiannual sales. And we've done that consistently. So in addition to the quantitative aspect of inventory, qualitatively, our commitment to ending seasons clean has not wavered at all. We are making important investment in the sleep and loungewear business for Victoria's this fall. We think, as pre-circulated in remarks and Jan might comment on further on this call, we think it's an important category of growth for us. And we are making investment there, which creates a little bit of investment in inventory in advance of sales. But fundamentally, Kimberly, our view hasn't changed as to how we manage inventory. Again, a little bit more challenging, given the variation in outcomes for lingerie and PINK in recent quarters and seasons, but the view doesn't change in terms of how we look at it. And we are making some important investments internationally in the digital channel and in the sleep and lounge business that I described for lingerie. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Paul Lejuez of Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Stuart, Victoria's Secret has sales productivity over $900 a foot, including e-comm sales. I'm just curious, what do you see as the right EBIT margin for a business with that sort of productivity? And it seems like relative to peak, the VS business is off about 1,000 basis points from peak margin. How much of that is due to lower merch margin, deleverage on occupancy or maybe SG&A deleverage? If you can maybe break that down for us.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
There's a lot in that, Paul. Appreciate the question. We believe, as we've talked about pretty consistently, and we've demonstrated when we're performing at our best, and there are a lot of reasons for the decline in performance over the last few years. But a business like Victoria's Secret, stores and digital, high-quality brand, pricing power, nature of competition, et cetera, we believe that, that business, when running optimally, should be a high-teens operating income rate business. And we have that view based on our own history and as we look at businesses like this when they're performing at their best over time. It's easy to say that. It's hard to accomplish that.
In terms of where the business is running now versus that ideal level, there is meaningful improvement opportunity, both in merchandise margin rates and in expense leverage. You appreciate that the expense structure, a lot of that relates to stores and square footage and payroll and wage rates and lots of things. But again, we've got -- the biggest opportunity for us is to drive sales growth at reasonable and healthy margin rates to get back to what should be the ideal operating income rate in that base business or EBIT rate in that business. It's not going to happen overnight. It'll take a few years to accomplish. But as you know, and for different reasons, when we pulled out of the top performance of '08 and '09, driven by macro events, we've steadily and consistently improved the operating income rate, both at Victoria's and Bath & Body Works, over that period of time. And this management team is focused on achieving the same result over the next several years for Victoria's Secret. And the most important thing to do is to drive volume at healthy margin rates. We'll manage expenses with discipline. We'll certainly continue to look at real estate, as we've talked about at length. The cash flow and profit characteristics of our real estate today are very healthy. But as is obvious, the sales productivity and underlying unit economics at Victoria's aren't as strong as they would've been a couple of years ago, but they remain very healthy. But a big part of the cost structure of the business relates to stores, and we'll continue to look at that as we move forward. But the biggest opportunity is around volume, and that's what this team's focused on. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Brian Tunick of RBC Capital Markets.
Brian Tunick:
I guess I wanted to hear a little more about your comfort on your Q4 guidance. Maybe if Stuart could maybe talk about how you're thinking about gross margin rate in Q4 versus Q3. And maybe Jan, you could talk about what are some of the biggest initiatives, whether it's changes in marketing, product, store environment that you think will help stabilize the business embedded in your fourth quarter guidance.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Brian, obviously, we spent a lot of time looking at the third quarter and the fourth quarter range of outcomes. Obviously, management believes that we've put out an appropriate range for the business. I wouldn't describe our views around margin dollars or margin rates as, in any stretch, heroic or unrealistic for either the third or the fourth quarter. I realize you're asking about the fourth quarter, but we believe they're realistic. There are a couple of inputs in the rate that I would remind you of. One is that the sourcing part of the business has gone out and done some work with our vendor partners to get some benefit that will benefit the fourth quarter. And apart from that, the margin rate assumptions are relatively consistent with recent results on a year-on-year basis and a multiyear basis. So we feel that we put out a model that should be achievable for sure if we execute well.
Jan Singer:
So fourth quarter is what you asked about, Brian, right? So we have a few critical bra launches, as we always do in fourth quarter, around specifically T-shirt and Dream. Of course, the panty business is the usual -- really, the heavy hitter for us. But what is important is that, Stuart mentioned earlier, the sleep and lounge category adding adjacent categories like sleep, lounge and even sports fashion has been a really important investment and growth driver, something that we've been working on all year. The casual side of the sleep business has had double-digit comps attaching to bras up to as high as 40% of the time. It's bringing in a new customer over 20% of the time week on week. And we have an existing customer who's coming back more frequently. We feel really good about the adjacent categories and what they do to the core of the business. It's a really big part of us building back our high-value customer file as well.
Brian Tunick:
And if I could just...
Amie Preston:
Go ahead, Brian.
Brian Tunick:
I was just curious, marketing and the messaging, it seems to be a hot topic out there. Just curious if Jan and the rest of the organization, how they're looking at the marketing message today at Victoria's Secret versus the last couple of years. And how you're making changes to that?
Jan Singer:
So, yes, thanks for the question. The brand, as I've said, we're not exactly where I think we need to be. However, we've debated this rigorously as a leadership team and a management group. And it's been decided that we had to focus on, and we are, transactional traffic driving marketing that transitions into the results that we're all looking for.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Ike Boruchow of Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
So Stuart, I want to kind of dig into the answer you gave to Paul's question. Obviously, you think VS is a much higher-margin business than what you're seeing today. So I guess at a higher level, VS is seeing ongoing declines in profitability and margins. I kind of just wanted to ask about how you view the cost structure of the brand. And how you think about balancing investment spend versus protecting profitability? And I guess what I really mean by that is, when the brand was hot, you guys had a lot of investment behind the brand to capture the volume. But with the top line pressure now, do you rethink some of your larger global investments, things like the Fifth Avenue flagship, Bond Street, potentially partnering back in China, even the fashion show. I'm just kind of curious, what will you kind of look at to kind of keep those margins higher than where they are today from a balancing investment?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks for the question, Ike. It is a big subject, as you appreciate. I mean, what this business is about, both at Victoria's Secret and, frankly, at Bath & Body Works and what Les has done over more than 50 years running the business, is to make investments, whether it's in the store design, in the merchandise, in the experience with customers, that create emotional content. And from that emotional content, you generate pricing power, that the product's got to be great and the emotional content of that merchandise, along with the environment in which it's sold, the marketing of it, et cetera, has got to be special, unique, different that creates that "got to have it" emotion for customers. So that's a fundamental philosophy of how we think about our business.
Obviously, evaluating whether you're getting paid for the range of investments that you described, and those were just examples, is the work of the work. And what I would want you to know is that we have had historically, and given recent results, are having more intense debate about evaluating whether we're getting paid for that range of investments, but -- or the wide range of the types of investments that you're asking about. Obviously, there's a lot of business judgment involved in evaluating that. We test things where we can. We make some decisions based on vision and intuition, as you would expect. Oftentimes, the greatest value is created in things that aren't obvious in terms of a return on investment. But a big question. We look at it intensely, regularly, periodically. Obviously, with some of the shift in the business, I understand why you're asking the question, and you can be sure that myself, other leaders in the business, Les, are also looking at all those investments and just challenging, are we really getting paid for them or not. And generally speaking, this business is relatively short cycle, again, versus other industries, so we are able to adjust. So things like the stores that we're now opening in China are smaller than the initial stores that we opened, as an example. Or you could take the Bath & Body Works remodel program, where we tried several different iterations before we came upon a store design that really drove incremental sales and profit. So big subject, often multiyear in nature. Requires iteration, testing, learning, adjusting. And I think we haven't always gotten all those things exactly right, but I would want to assure you and those listening to the call, that those things get rigorous evaluation as part of running the business. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes Chethan Mallela of Barclays.
Chethan Mallela:
On BBW, the business has been strong for some time, but the comp acceleration over the past couple of quarters has still been notable. And I think the double-digit comp growth in 2Q was the first time it was at that level in a couple of years. So could you just kind of frame what's primarily responsible for the improved trend? How much is idiosyncratic versus just kind of a better industry backdrop in general? And how you're thinking about the growth rate for that business over the midterm?
Amie Preston:
Sure. We'll go to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks. So I think the first part of the question is, we feel very good about the categories that we're in, being in beauty and being in home. And they are dynamic categories, as you can see in the industry. So that's a positive thing for us.
Secondly, as I mentioned in our opening comments, the amount of work that we took on during the latter part of 2016 and the majority of '17 where we were really investing in the product and trying to reposition a lot of the products that we had, and that has manifested itself in, I would say, a healthy comp. Whilst -- as we continue to roll products out and programs out post 2017, we can see the trajection of it has continued to grow. So we saw from the latter part of October 2017 into Q4, Q1, Q2, we've seen that continually grow. So as we look forward, I think it's more about us continuing to stay as close as we can to the customer; continue to refine the assortments to reflect what's going on in the market and what we're learning; and hopefully, maintenance of the current comp performance that we've got.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick.
Operator:
The next question comes from Michael Binetti of Crédit Suisse.
Michael Binetti:
Jan, I think you mentioned a strong focus on building back the customer file quite a bit in the last few quarters. But you've also commented today, I think, briefly on rebuilding a gap with the dual-channel customer. I was wondering if you could discuss a little bit how to marry those 2 comments. And what you were referring to that you mentioned the dual-channel customer specifically. And maybe just bigger picture, remind us of some of the metrics around that customer and how valuable they are for the franchise relative to your total customer book.
Jan Singer:
The short -- thanks for the question, Michael. The short answer is it's the same commentary, the building back the customer file refers to the high-value dual-channel customer.
Michael Binetti:
Okay. So Nick, if I could sneak one in. Is -- with the remodels, could you remind us of the KPIs you look at to measure the rollout of the White Barn doors maybe. And how those are progressing relative to your plan, with any numerical example you might be able to offer to help,just kind of reorient us from some of the goals you mentioned before?
Nicholas Coe:
Sure. And I think part of our performance -- part of our solid performance has been also driven by continued good performance in the existing real estate activity that we took on and the new real estate activity. So the real KPI that we look at is what kind of growth are we seeing in the first, second and now into the third year. And we continue to see a very nice lift in that first year and then a continued performance in year 2 and year 3.
What I really want to reiterate is the agility that we have. And so we continue to read very, very diligently the results of those investments we're making in the stores. And if that ever slows down, we have terrific agility in terms of being able to slow that pace or stop that pace. Now as we go into a number of years of doing this -- and by the end of the year, we'll be well north of 600, we continue to see a return on investment that we like. And so we'll continue to invest. But the moment that we feel like that, that's not happening, we do have the agility to pause that. So continually evaluating that performance is a high priority of ours.
Michael Binetti:
Okay. Stuart, can I sneak one in? You guys have remained very committed to a very, very high dividend yield despite, I think, the operating results coming in below some of your hopes for a bit here. I know you've worked hard to moderate CapEx down a few times here along the way. But could you help us with how you think about holding steady the approach to the capital deployment in contrast to the variances you've seen in the operating plans?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Important subject, obviously, important source of return for shareholders. Obviously, the payout ratio is abnormally high. The yield is very high. We look at it regularly. Management does. We have the appropriate conversations with our board. Obviously, a lot of our earnings and our cash come in the fourth quarter. We have conversations about this regularly. But importantly, as we have more insight into holiday results, we're comfortable with the dividend today, have the free cash flow to support it. But it's obviously something that should be looked at periodically, and we do. We're comfortable with it. We expect to -- one way to deal with the payout ratio is obviously to increase earnings. That's what we're focused on. Earnings increases would drive obviously an increase in the share price and get dividend yields and relationships like that in a more normal range. But with that said, our operating performance has lagged our expectations over the last several years. So we look at it periodically in a rigorous way. That will continue. We're comfortable with it based on what we know at this point, and we'll continue to look at it. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. [Operator Instructions]
Operator:
Your next question comes from Roxanne Meyer of MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is about the right number of Victoria's Secret, PINK and BBW stores, just giving us perhaps an update as to how you see the portfolio evolving, taking into account, on one hand, expanded categories and also -- but also, you've seen some rapid growth in DTC. So how does that change, if at all, your view on what the right number of stores and even the size of the store should be?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Roxanne, it's Stuart. I'll try to take that and others may want to jump in. But as we've talked about pretty consistently in our communications, the first point I'd really want to register is that we actively manage the subject you're asking about. And we are opening and closing stores every year. In the information we put out publicly, there is a forecast of store activity this year, and it's being actively managed. We shared a slide at the investor meeting a year ago that showed our activity over a 10-year period where we opened, by memory, more than 700 stores and we closed more than 500 stores. So it's being very actively managed. As you know, our sales productivities are high. Not as high at Victoria's as they were a few years ago. They're continuing to grow and be high at Bath & Body Works. You know that our cash flow and profit profile in our stores is very strong. And with that said, we're not unaware of what's happening with mall-based retailing in an overall sense. But with that said, those retailers that have strong brand, strong offering, strong execution are doing very well in malls. And again, within our own business, Bath & Body would be an example of that. Victoria's Secret Beauty would be an example of that. So it is very actively managed.
We'll see how it plays out over time, and we'll continue to manage it actively year by year. Looking at the current version of our schedule, Victoria's Secret is going to close about 20 stores in North America this year and it's going to open about 3. So there's some net reduction. But it's actively managed, and it will be a function of performance. It's performance based. That's how we evaluate the initial investments, and that's how we evaluate decisions as to whether to close doors or not. We obviously understand sales transfer and cannibalization and all those dynamics, and consider those things as we actively manage the real estate portfolio. So big, important subject. Got a very strong team that is responsible for it within the enterprise, and we have a lot of experience working with it. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Jamie Merriman of Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
Jan, I think this question's for you. You talked pretty positively about some of the products that you've relaunched, like the Sexy Illusions bra, like the T-shirt bra. Can you just update us and give us a sense of timing for some of the initiatives for maybe second half of this year into next year? I think Body by Victoria is one. And then as you move beyond that, are there other big legacy businesses that will still need relaunch?
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Jamie. Well, we continuously update each part of the portfolio. So BBV, as recently as this month, has been relaunched with color and fashion. We're continuing on the innovation of that bra. That's a very important franchise, and we're very thoughtful and mindful about how we manage it. But going into the fall, as I mentioned, it's balancing that portfolio with, again, the acceleration and the success we're seeing in panties, which we're super excited about. It's a business that we flow new goods superfast, sometimes weekly. And we continue to see, again, new customer acquisition as well as existing engagement and moving up the funnel of the deal. The adjacent categories I mentioned in sleep and lounge and sport fashion, if you will, and sport performance, are really important to build back again that the -- not just the file, but the business in a long-term, sustainable way. So that's just on the dockets.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jan.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Marni Shapiro of Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Could you talk a little bit or dig a little bit into the lounge business at PINK and Victoria's Secret? It seems that over the last several seasons, there's been a little push and pull between the 2 brands. Are you seeing the customer gravitate to whichever looks better? So maybe one season, it's Victoria's Secret; the next season, it's PINK. Or do you think these are separate issues at Victoria's Secret and PINK?
Jan Singer:
Yes. So Marni, it's Jan. I will say that we're not in the "lounge business" per se the way PINK is. We're in the sleep business for sure, which is different fabrications, different silhouettes, different content and different fashion. Our "lounge" effort is a much smaller part of the business. We are not in fleece in the way that PINK is in fleece. And Denise, I'm sure, will speak to that. So I don't see them as trading off each other. We have a very different handwriting, again, a different target consumer, a different end purpose and different pricing structure. Don't know, Denise, if you want to add to that.
Denise Landman:
No, I would agree that, not unlike the commentary specific to bras, they're hopefully and discernibly differentiated. I think the thing I would reemphasize specific to the fleece segment of our lounge business, which is currently under some pressure, is in our minds, attributed to this buy now, wear now phenomenon that has fairly rapidly affecting the buying habits of our age cohort. And so we're adjusting into seasonality based on these consumer insights and feedback that we get from the consumers that we're in constant contact with. But I would say, overall, the lounge business continues to be a relevant category to the college-age consumer and a category of interest. It's just silhouette reference points, fabric reference points have to be seasonally accurate and in the appropriate quantities to drive the velocity that the business requires.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Susan Anderson of B. Riley FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I guess as a follow-up on the profit margins of the VS business, there's been a lot of new competitors pop up in the space. So I guess, has -- do you guys think the bar has been reset in terms of where these margins should be? And then also, we've had a mix shift in the bralettes and sports bras, which are still part of the mix, which are lower ticket and potentially lower margin. So does that also reset the business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Susan -- Jan jump on. Where I start, and many of you have heard us talk about it in this way, a company that we admire a lot is Inditex. And particularly, theirs are our business, but they run a strong portfolio, and they run for sustained periods of time at high-teen margin rates. Their cost structure is different, which relates back to an earlier question. But in terms of intensity of competition, I can't think of a more competitive set of segments in retailing than the ones in which they operate. And through very strong execution on their part over very long periods of time, they run at a high-teens operating income rate.
And so if I think about that set of circumstances in comparison to the environment in which Victoria's Secret and PINK operate in, I think when we're executing our business extremely well, including again back to some of the questions about making sure that we're trading off investments appropriately, there's no reason why there might be, to some degree, an increased level of competition vis-à-vis the segment, for example, that's ours competing in. And I think we're in a much better set of categories with a much stronger relative competitive position. And so again, we're of a view that when we're really running this well, and we realize we've got a lot of opportunity to get there and it's our job to get us there, that we have the potential to get back into that high teens rate, which we've been at before, even with a little bit more competition in the industry. So that'd be my take. Jan, you may have something.
Jan Singer:
Well, I mean, I think the thing about the expansiveness of this brand and the assortment that we offer online, [ late-design ] push-up bras. So there's choices in the portfolio. It's important to be in balance. An example that you're mentioning about the price architecture due to the landscape result, let's say, T-shirt for a second, which originally was an opening-price-point bra, we've taken 4 price-ups on that bra, and we continue to see unbelievable builds week on week, so it's an interesting phenomenon. It's a casual bra. It definitely speaks to the landscape you're talking to. Yet every time we keep putting out, I will call, fashion content on that bra, she continues to pay us more for it. We're selling out of the most important styles in it. And even when we look at BBV and what we're starting to do with it and adding fashion again to that bra franchise, we're seeing a younger consumer pay us for that work. So it is an interesting time, and things are moving, but we are on top of it.
Amie Preston:
We're going to try to get 2 more questions in here.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Simeon Siegel of Nomura Instinet.
Simeon Siegel:
Stuart or Nick, what percent of the new BBW stores are side-by-side versus shop in shop? And I guess, where relevant, how much of the remodels -- how much have those remodels added to comp? And then just any help on where the PINK margins operate currently.
Nicholas Coe:
Simeon, the majority are actually shop in shop. And as a go-forward point of view on that, we -- that tends to be where we would want to get -- continue the investments into it. So we're actually happy with both, both side-by-side and shop in shop. I think operationally and the ability to manage the store, it's probably more efficient and probably more customer-friendly from a shop-in-shop perspective. And that tends to be where we will continue the investment at the moment. But as I said earlier on, we're pretty fluid in terms of how we read those and how we manage them, but that's pretty much the answer.
Amie Preston:
And I think that has not been a meaningful contributor to comp, right? It's less than a point, I think.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Simeon, on PINK margins, they are -- they remain very healthy but are down versus their peak but remain very healthy. We don't get into fine detail about margin rates by -- at that level of detail. But in an overall comment, they're very healthy margin rates. They're down somewhat versus their peak but remain healthy. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Simeon.
Operator:
Your final question comes from Janet Kloppenburg of JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Congratulations to Denise, whose brand leadership has been remarkable and has taught us a lot. And also, welcome, Amy, who I think will do a great job at PINK. Couple quick questions for Denise. We've often talked about the logo business at PINK. Can you talk about that in light of the fact that logo is working universally? And maybe if there's some updates necessary for the PINK logo. And just for Jan, in the businesses of shrink, can you talk about margin direction there, maybe in panties and the new bra introductions and sleepwear?
Denise Landman:
If by local, you're referring to our collegiate business, am I clear? Did I...
Janet Kloppenburg:
No, I'm talking about all the PINK logo products.
Denise Landman:
Oh, logo, sorry. The logo segment of our business literally defines it. And what we're experiencing lately, which as well, I take as a sign of brand validation, is increasing engagement with more expansive brand iconography. So you would be familiar with the PINK dog as another discernible brand reference point selling very well. So the attachment rate to LOVE PINK, PINK logo, logo manipulated in a myriad of creative ways and the inclusion of more expensive iconography has not met with consumer rejection. Far from it.
Amie Preston:
And Jan?
Jan Singer:
Janet, just one more time with your question. I'm sorry. I don't think I heard the whole thing.
Janet Kloppenburg:
I know you have a lot of new products that are working very well. I'm just interested in whether you're seeing margin gains in those categories. For instance, in the panty category, which you turned rather quickly, are you able to see the rebound in margins back to historical levels? And on the new bra introductions, are you seeing margins comparable to, let's say, legacy Body by Victoria or Very Sexy?
Jan Singer:
Yes. So on the businesses that I talked about, we are talking about not just top line sales but also margin -- healthy margin in line with sales. I can't speak to historical levels because some of these items didn't exist back in the day. But panties certainly is tracking to where we've been, and we're excited about that. Same with the T-shirt bra, and Illusions is a new book of business.
Amie Preston:
Appreciate it, Janet. Thank you, and thank you all for joining us this morning and for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Lori, and I'll be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2018 Earnings Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lori. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' First Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, May 5, 2018.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our first quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are available on our website, www.lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Denise Landman, CEO of PINK; Jan Singer, CEO of Victoria's Secret Lingerie; Greg Unis, CEO of Victoria's Secret Beauty; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, CEO of International, are all joining us today. As you know, 2017 was a 53-week year. All of the sales dollars, margin and operating income results discussed on the call today are on a reported basis, which is the quarter ending May 5, '18, versus April 29, 2017. Comparable sales are on a comparable calendar period, so the quarter ending May 5 this year versus May 6, 2017. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter earning per share of $0.17 were at the midpoint of our initial guidance of $0.15 to $0.20 per share and benefited from a favorable tax rate. Absent the impact of the lower-than-forecasted tax rate, we delivered an earnings per share result at the low end of our range.
Operating income declined by 26%. Our performance was mixed. Growth in operating income at Bath & Body Works versus last year and our forecast was more than offset by a decline at Victoria's Secret. We're not satisfied with this result and are very focused on improving performance at Victoria's Secret. In doing so, we have a number of assets to work with, as described in the commentary we released yesterday, including a strong brand, which continues to lead the lingerie category in market share; a large profitable store base, with nearly 400 million visits annually; a very profitable, rapidly growing direct channel; a large and growing customer file; speed and agility in our supply chain; and a talented leadership team. The 2016 strategic changes we made in Victoria's were significant, and we're still dealing with the impacts, particularly in negative store traffic trends and the resulting increase in promotional activity as we work to build the customer file. We are confident in the strength of the brand and our ability to improve performance. But given the current trend of the business, we believe it is appropriate to take a more conservative view of the timing of the turnaround and have decreased our full year 2018 earnings guidance by $0.25 a share. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Denise.
Denise Landman:
Thanks, Stuart. I'm going to share a brief overview of PINK's Q1 results and my thoughts about our outlook leading into Q2.
Overall, PINK's Q1 comps were down low-single digits, driven by the early portion of the quarter, with performance improving late in the quarter due to strong customer acceptance of our go-forward assortment. Decline in swims, which is a non-go-forward category, had a distorted impact on our soft performance in the quarter. Bras and panties were about flat to last year. Bra performance was dominated by Wear Everywhere, sport and our Date bra relaunch. Panties were strong across all silhouettes and collections, driven by fashion and newness. Apparel had areas of success and disappointment. Our sport apparel assortment was strong throughout the quarter, while early in the quarter, portions of our lounge top and bottom business mixed -- missed expectations. Despite the soft quarter, recent performance against our go-forward strategies give us confidence. We're encouraged by our most recent apparel floor set and our Date relaunch. In June, we will relaunch a new and improved Wear Everywhere bra. And the brand continues to focus on growing our customer file and operating our business with speed and agility. Thank you very much, and I will turn it over to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Denise. As you know and have read in the script, VSL had a record year in '15 and, in '16, made significant changes across the business. Those changes resulted in challenging performance and a loss of high-value dual-channel customers. And while we have made progress, we have much more work to do to deliver VSL growth and profitability.
The plan to do that remains consistent and is centered around 3 things:
knowing her, solving her choices of sexy through making great product; and serving her where she wants and when she wants.
In terms of knowing her, we continue to put her at the center by engaging with millions of women in person in store as well as online through our social channels and in our customer care center. The insights we capture will help us empower making great product and serving her. In the product side, we said we would reset the business starting at the core with bras, and we have begun that work and are seeing some success with newness. We launched the Illusion bra, which is a significant incremental collection and has met or beat its plans since launch. It's the highest-AUR constructed bra, and it's margin accretive. We reset T-Shirt Bra by reducing the frame choices by half, improving the fit, and continue to see sales almost double from the original collection. We have taken price up twice since the launch due to demand and continue to watch that franchise closely. In addition to bringing innovation, we've delivered fashion through new product introductions in Dream Angels, which is up double digits for the quarter with positive margin dollar contribution. All of these bras answer her desire for choice of lining levels, choice of fashion and a high focus on fit. These bras are bringing in new and younger customers, and we are already seeing her repeat purchase. We're encouraged by this progress on bras. But again, we recognize it's not sufficient. We have a full pipeline in play, and we'll continue to evolve the business of bras, creating long-term profitable growth and new loyals. In panties, the total panty sales for the quarter are up mid-single-digit for the second consecutive quarter. The largest book of business in the 5 for panty has been reset, as we discussed last call. We reduced the number of fits by 50%, have delivered 2 quarters of double-digit top line and bottom line growth. And we're using the 5 for learnings to reset now the 3 for business using speed and agility as our offense. In addition, adjacent categories are continuing to drive the momentum. Key adjacent categories are critical to deepening her experience and are creating new loyals to drive growth. Sleep and lounge is now a 12-month business, with casual sleep up high double digits for the quarter in sales and margin. Sport apparel has been reset and continues to grow mid-single digits and continues to bring new customers. Sport bra sales were softer in this quarter. We are now balancing the innovation of those bras with more fashion choices go forward. Again, while I'm encouraged by the progress on product, I recognize there is more work to do to close the gap in top line, bottom line and customer file growth. In terms of serving her, we've continued to deepen the digital integration and investment into the brand for a seamless shopping experience, and the results have been proven positive. We're testing and evolving in-store experiences through the assortment and using a navigation that inspires and educates. We're reaching new customers through brand-accretive promotions and opportunities that connect with our girl. And we're increasing our reach and have tested and rolled a new magalog to existing, new and lapsed customers. We have seen a higher response rate to this piece, to the vehicle itself than our traditional CRM efforts. We've increased our Angel Card acquisition in the quarter single digits and continue to build back high-value dual-channel customers. Our new leadership team is in place. It's a balanced team that's always on the offense every day, every week, every month and leveraging our agility, speed of decision-making. Again, I'm confident in our approach, our process and progress in resetting the brand. More work to do, and I expect process to deepen and our progress to continue as we move forward.
Greg Unis:
Good morning. As you read in our prepared remarks, the Beauty business saw strong growth in Q1 with a positive double-digit sales comp. Q1 marks our fourth consecutive quarter of positive comps, which is an exciting trend for the Beauty business.
Throughout the quarter, we saw strong growth from our declared priorities. In fragrance, our best set, we achieved double-digit growth fueled by the Bombshell franchise and fashion in our Mist Collection category. Specifically, we drove significant double-digit growth in the Bombshell franchise with the successful launches of Bombshell Seduction and our limited-edition fan favorite, Bombshell Summer. At the same time, core Bombshell, our #1 scent and one of the top fragrances in the country, had positive growth, growing the Bombshell franchise in total. Fashion continues to resonate with our customers, driving significant growth in our Mist Collection category and also in our on-trend accessories. At the beginning of February, we relaunched the PINK beauty business. We are pleased with the initial results, which drove significant growth. We are chasing back into bestsellers and continue to stay close to the PINK customer as we plan for what's next. Looking forward, we have an exciting lineup planned for Q2. In the spirit of continuing to focus on our best set, we will be relaunching one of our top scents with a new on-trend look and feel. We will continue to drive fashion and newness through Mist Collection, lip and accessories. We will bring the back-to-school season to life with new and exciting PINK beauty offerings. We are confident in our business model, our team and our continued growth and look forward to the quarter ahead. Thank you for joining this morning, and I will now hand it over to Nick Coe to share his thoughts.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Greg, and good morning, everyone. Just a few comments to build on the prepared remarks that were shared as part of the earnings release.
I'm really encouraged that we continue to deliver solid results in the first quarter following a solid performance in Q4 2017. Sales grew 12%, and operating income grew by 21% in the period. We should also acknowledge that we were lapping a softer compare as sales were difficult in Q1 of last year. As described previously, we have seen sales momentum build by leveraging our read and react capabilities to chase into more of the seasonally relevant collections that our customers expect from us on a year-round basis. We applied some really important learnings from last year that have really helped our body care and our soap business get up to a strong start, and we continue to be extremely pleased with the performance of our home fragrance business. Sales aside, the investment in wages announced in Q4 earnings release are only partially affecting our Q1 results, while a full impact to SG&A expenses will occur in Q2 and the balance of the year. Also, earnings in the first quarter did benefit from the timing shift in store remodels and new store openings, which was less impactful in Q1 but will put more pressure on buying and occupancy expense in Q2. As you all are aware, our online channel continues to experience very strong growth. And in support, we'll be making more significant investments in Q2 and the balance of the year. Looking forward to the second quarter. We remain cautiously optimistic that we can continue to drive strong sales while also investing in long-term health and relevance of our brand. It goes without saying, we will continue to diligently manage inventory, expenses and our investments into the business as well as launching new and innovative products and ensuring our customers have a great experience in both the stores and the digital platforms. Thank you and I'll turn the conversation over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everybody.
As I look back on our international business performance for the first quarter at a high level, I'd make 3 observations. Firstly, the partner-based businesses are doing well, with good sales and operating income growth. Secondly, we continue to invest in China, which we believe will be a very significant market for us. VSBA stores and e-commerce are doing well. And the 7 full-assortment stores, 5 of which opened in the fourth quarter, are progressing about in line with our initial expectations. And thirdly, the U.K. business continues to be very challenged, and we have a lot of work to do there to fix it. And overall, comps in all of our brands in the international segment were broadly in line with the patterns that we saw in North America. In the balance of 2018, our priorities continue to be, firstly, continuing to scale in China, where we'll open another 10 full-assortment stores later this year; secondly, improving our performance in the U.K.; and finally, continuing to build on the success of our partner-owned stores around the world. Thanks, everybody, and I'll turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. So that concludes our prepared comments this morning. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Lori.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from the line of Susan Anderson of B. Riley FBR.
Luke Hatton:
This is Luke Hatton on for Susan. I was just wondering, where are you in the process of exiting swim at PINK? And then how should we be thinking about the swim-related impact into 2Q? And then maybe is there any impact that carries into the back half?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, this is Stuart. Well, we'll be selling down the remaining swim assortment this spring, exiting the spring season clean, and at this time, don't intend to continue in the swim category at PINK. So we'll have the most significant impact as we lap the spring '18 result in spring of '19. And our focus is -- just to be clear on that, is we believe that there is more significant growth in other categories in the business
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Luke.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez of Citigroup.
Paul Lejuez:
Just thinking back to some of those strategic changes you made in early '16, pulling back on the promotional mailers, catalog, swim. We've seen you add back mailers. You just brought this magalog back. Are there discussions taking place about swim? How is the leadership team thinking about that category coming back in some form at some point? I'm just curious if you guys have left the door open on bringing swim back in some way.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Paul. And I'm just dealing with it as it relates both to lingerie and PINK. Where our greatest focus and discussion is, is in growing our core categories, Paul, and then growing the adjacent sport, loungewear and beauty categories within our business. With that said, is there ongoing dialogue from time to time out about the potential of bringing swim back per se? Yes, there is from time to time. But again, our energy is placed on growing our core categories and other adjacent categories, including lingerie, the loungewear business, sport in PINK and the beauty business as well. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger of Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
I wanted to just ask about the philosophy on promotions of Victoria's Secret. Obviously, the brand is struggling to drive traffic to the stores, and you seemed to be basically leaning on promotions in order to stabilize that traffic number. So maybe you could just share your philosophy, would you rather promote and drive traffic, get new customers into the brand and then ease off later on? Or what is the philosophical trade-off between driving traffic and margin erosion?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly. We'll go to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Kimberly. I would say that we use strategic moments to promote for sure to bring new customers into the box. We have new merchandise, we want her to see it. And when we do that, we're seeing that build on our new customer acquisition. And our job now is to keep engaged with her, build a loyal and move her up the funnel. So it's done at moments in time against certain books of business when we launch certain things, and it's done at moments in time that we know that she's shopping. So there is a strategy against it. It's related to her shopping patterns in addition to our product launches.
Amie Preston:
Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Brian Tunick of Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, Stuart, wanted to hear a little more about the cost savings at Victoria's Secret, maybe where that's coming from. When you think about the 500 and I think what did you say 50 basis points of EBIT margin erosion since 2015 at Vicky's. How much of that has been merchandise margins, and how much has been deleveraging on the negative sales as you sort of think about where the cost savings are going to come from?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Brian, both components, margin rate erosion and deleveraging the P&L, have been the drivers, and just both are significant. Don't need to get into the details of how much is one versus the other, but both are very significant. With respect to the first part of your question, we are looking at all costs and expenses. We've reduced our CapEx forecast to start with that. We're looking at our marketing programs. We're looking at our supply chain to drive efficiency in all elements of the supply chain. We're looking at other opportunities to improve operating income through expense reductions in other areas of the business that can benefit operating income. In terms of going through the specific details of all of that, the key message would be, we're looking at everything, and there are substantial plans in place to contribute to the operating income result. And I would highlight in particular efficiencies we're driving in the supply chain. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager of Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
In the prepared remarks, you discussed building back into the high-spend customer segment at VS. Could you just expand on that a bit? I mean, I guess if you hindsight the last couple of years, how much of the pressure that you've seen at VS has been a result of lost customers versus lower spend per customer due to the exit of certain categories? And just any other insights you can share just regarding the changes in customer behavior at VS?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mark. We'll go to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Well, I think it's a combination of things as there always is when there are complex decisions that were taken. One of which is that we have customers that were involved in certain categories that we either exited or slowed down. And our job right now is to reconnect with her with the new merchandise that we have and also build in a new customer. The books of business that I mentioned in bras, for instance, the Illusion bra, Dream Angels and even the T-Shirt Bra, 50% of the time, that customer that's coming in is under 35 years old and is new to the box. When she comes in as new to the box is under 35. So we're encouraged by that because that builds our file back. And the job now is making sure that we move those customers up the funnel. We know that our loyals have a high propensity to visit us more often than those that are new. So it's in our best interest to keep that file, especially at the high-value dual channel, full and healthy. We have hired recently a new CMO who's very involved in transactional marketing and CRM and making sure that we have a more deep relationship with who she is, we share with her newness in the box, and we serve her. So we feel good about building that back.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jan. We'll also go to Denise for her thoughts on their customer base.
Denise Landman:
Sure. So in addition to the aggregate VS file, PINK has the opportunity to get a unique glimpse into its high-value customers through the lens of PINK Nation, where we are able to measure her affinity, number one, very important; and number two, spend level longitudinally. We have found great stability in that segment of our business. Therefore, little to no erosion seen. As recent changes have been made and reflected on by the exec team, these do not appear to be impacting PINK Nation population at the present time. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell of Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
To Stuart and Jan, just wanted to know how and when the merchandise margin decline will stop and will start to see some stabilization. Are there any notable green shoots on that front? And to Martin, quickly, if you can just outline or detail the significance of the decline ongoing in the U.K. and the preopening cost in China and how we should think about that time line.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul. So we'll go to Stuart for the question about margin.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Paul. With respect to the margin rate, we would expect some further erosion in the second quarter and then a relatively flattish margin rate for both the third and the fourth quarter. So a little bit more pressure in Q2 and then a pretty steady result versus the prior year in the fall season. I'm speaking for the company in total. And that's a function of we're lapping softer numbers obviously, and some of the supply chain-related benefit that I discussed is assumed within that overall view.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So as it relates to the U.K., the decline has been significant. As a reminder, it's in 3 areas. Firstly, the same pattern as we see in the domestic business. Secondly, I think you will have read about the very poor market that there is in the U.K., and we've certainly been exposed to that with reductions in traffic all across the U.K. And thirdly, there's an element of our own execution where we need to do much better. So no hiding from the fact that it's a very significant reduction in the U.K. You also asked about China and preopening costs there. So with 10 stores opening that are large stores, there is a very significant part of our investment that's related to that preopening. Our expectation is that it will reduce as we go forward into 2019, but that's largely dependent on the decision that we make about how many stores we'll open in 2019, 2020. And we won't be giving guidance on that until later in the year when we've got a better read on the business.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Martin.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Omar Saad of Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Jan, I wanted to ask you a follow-up and maybe if you could elaborate a little bit more on your comments around losing that high-value dual-channel customer, I want to make sure I understand what specifically you mean. I think you're talking about an older customer, but maybe you could tell us some of your thoughts and insights on why you lost them and where they went and how you're going to get them back.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Omar. There's a combination of things as there always is. I mean, the high-value dual channel customer, we look at age. And yes, some of them have been with us, and some of them have just left the brand by natural attrition. Some folks have left the brand due to the categories that we exited and the categories that we slowed down. And so we want to make sure that we bring in a new customer. And we're doing that quite aggressively, as you're seeing in some of our books that are working and the data I mentioned a second ago. So we're not slowing down in terms of reaching her, making sure we have products for her and bringing her in. And I am excited about the newness in bras like Illusion, which is our highest-AUR bra, and seeing new business come in through that, both younger customers, much younger, younger than we anticipated, and then seeing her come back in and shop the box or bringing in customers almost twice as many through a T-Shirt Bra but seeing her move up to Dream Angels. So we're already seeing that funnel start to fill and grow. It's really important that we engage her. And those things take time because having somebody return visit takes time. So I'm pretty excited about the beating of green shoots that are happening, but I recognize that we have a gap that we have to fill in that -- what I'd call file of our consumer file.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Anna Andreeva of Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
Question is to Stuart. The comments about 3Q earnings being below that 1Q historically does imply a pretty big acceleration in the fourth quarter. So maybe talk about your confidence level in the recovery there. And how are you guys approaching the holiday compared to last year? Any color by brand would be very helpful.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So the fourth quarter assumption is between a low- and mid-single percentage increase in operating income, and that's now lapping several soft years in the fourth quarter. As you appreciate, it's the biggest quarter of the year by far. Our sales and margin assumptions, we believe, are reasonable. Certainly, the tax rate reduction does not have kind of an equal effect by quarter. And so we believe based on what we know at this time that the full year view is a reasonable view obviously. That's why we've put it out, and we think it reflects a reasonable pace of turnaround and trajectory of turnaround in the Victoria's Secret segment and the balance of the business. And again, it doesn't imply a heroic assumption with respect to sales and margins. So -- but we've got work to do, and it certainly reflects a change in trend but not a dramatic change in trend.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. And I mean, it's a little early to be talking about holiday in any great detail, but at a high level, we'll ask the CEOs to give a few thoughts about that. And I'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
I think if I think about last year, the biggest changes we made last year were really retooling an awful lot of the business from a product perspective. And the biggest impact from our learnings really came in Q4, and that manifested itself in our need to really chase back into some of the seasonal stuff that we weren't prepared to be in. So the opportunity this year obviously is we are prepared to be in those seasonal stories. And we literally saw the trajectory of our business change in the third or fourth week of October last year into a very positive arena. And that was driven by our ability to chase back into those things. So being able to plan for that ahead of time and know that that's something the customer really wants and very much demanded from us, we'll be in a much better position to service that particular piece of the business, which is extremely important to that time of year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick. Denise?
Denise Landman:
Sure. In PINK, with respect to holiday, we typically experience a fairly significant distortion into our loungewear segment. As you followed the brands reporting in recent earnings calls, you've heard commentary with respect to some softness in that sector. As we begin to regain momentum in the lounge sector, this is truly the accelerant that propels us forward into holiday, hopefully with increasing confidence. In addition, I have commented with respect to last holiday on the brand's ability to sustain performance in box, gifting and sleepwear, which is encouraging. So as the loungewear business finds its turnaround or inflection point, we're hoping to see a happier result in Q4. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Jan?
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Amie. I would say in holiday, we had a lot of great hindsight from last year. We actually came into the season pretty strong, and we had some opportunity that we all know about in December. That has given us a great learning agenda that we've put into play for spring, particularly around the adjacent categories of sleep, lounge, sports and bras that are glamor bras. So we are a bit smarter on how to use our agility and our speed muscle. We're actually testing through that in the beginning of the year. Though you can never replicate Christmas, we know what levers we want to pull. And the other news that came up for us off-holiday in combination with Greg's business was around gifting. And I think continuing to distort gifting in the final weeks of holiday sounds obvious, but it's an effort for us to come together. And we're going to do it, and we're going to take that one to a new level this holiday as well. I'm encouraged by the learnings.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jan. And finally, Greg?
Greg Unis:
Yes. In Beauty, I would say that first and foremost, we're really focused in -- on building what's already working in our business, and that will pay off in dividends in holiday. Our penetration to the total box increases significantly, and so we're really focused on winning there. It's all about gifting and -- important there. In the PINK world, it's -- with the growth of the PINK beauty business, it opens up a whole new category of guests for that customer and for the business there.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow of Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Just 2 quick modeling questions. First, for Martin, I think Paul was trying to get to this. But around profitability in China, I think you lost around $50 million, $55 million last year. Can -- I know you don't know future years because it's dependent on store openings. But for this year, are you expecting those losses to widen or stabilize or come in a little bit better? And then, Stuart, real quick, in the remarks, you mentioned the BBW margins benefited from a timing shift of real estate costs into Q2. Can you just quantify that for us so we know how much of the margin to think about for Q2 when we model that out?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So thanks for the question, Ike. so you're right that we invested $50 million, $60 million for the full year. And what I would tell you is that that's somewhat front loaded, so you can expect the back half of the year to see a lower level of loss than the front half of the year. That's about all I can tell you at this stage.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Martin. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Ike, on the effect that Nick mentioned on the remodel timing, it was some effect, but I wouldn't describe it as that significant as it relates to the year. So a little bit of timing shift but not large enough really to quantify. Some impact but not that big.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen of Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
We've done so much research on the younger customer. I have a simple question with a complex answer. What are your thoughts on how to engage the younger customer? And how would you prioritize strategies here? And what are your thoughts about the segmentation of your direct mail program, using data or loyalty, just to make sure that it's brand accretive and balancing traffic versus promotions?
Amie Preston:
So Oliver, I want to make sure, are you asking with respect to a specific business?
Oliver Chen:
VS would be a great one to address. That would be great.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Jan?
Jan Singer:
Okay. So first of all, I think it's -- with the younger customer, obviously, the social channels are critical for us, and we're seeing incredible improvement from our engagement, which means not just likes but actually commentary and conversion. We're happy about that. The tone and manner of that channel is evolving. And I make it my personal business at 4 a.m. to be reading each one of them, so I stay pretty close to social as the world is, and I feel good about the direction it's going in. In terms of segmentation, yes, high-fidelity segmentation, awareness of who she is, what she's buying, she's in our store, she's on our sites, we have that data, and then returning the conversation with her with content that will resonate. So it isn't a one-size-fits-all. It's not everybody gets everything all the time. But the high-fidelity nature of segmentation and conversation is the key for us to get into an engagement model that we know translates into loyalty. She feels she's part of this brand when we do that well, and she comes and sees us more often.
Amie Preston:
Okay, great. And Denise?
Denise Landman:
I would respond with respect to the emerging generation defined as Generation Z, which is of particular interest to the PINK brand, as you can well imagine, as these consumers are now in their teens and beginning to make significant strides in their spend levels in the retail sector. I think it's beholden on the brand, to tell you the truth, in order to appropriately service this age cohort to understand her social migration patterns as she brails the social landscape. There are distinctive differences between this generation and the generation that preceded it. And I would say we would be beholden to understand that. With respect to the e-com nuance associated with this generational shift, we are as well influencing our e-com experience in order to appropriately engage her with the speed and efficiency that she expects in order to have a satisfying brand experience. Thank you.
Amie Preston:
Great. And Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes. Oliver, I would put it into 3 buckets. And I think the first bucket is a lot of the improved product that we put into the stores, especially from a naturals, healthy, good-for-you slant, has engaged the younger customer. The second bucket I would say is with pretty aggressive testing agenda to understand what, from a product perspective, that we haven't normally been in has attractive -- can we attract the younger customer with that. And then thirdly, with our remodels, we're genuinely seeing not only higher traffic but also a really healthy mix of younger traffic coming to the stores. And so not only do we get a nice return on our investment for those remodels, but we're also seeing a nice pattern in terms of traffic. And that's a nice mix of younger customers as well as our loyal customers. So that's really in those 3 buckets, how we're approaching it and making nice headway.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, and thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Jamie Merriman of Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
I just wanted to come back to the question about the trade-off between promotion and revenue. In the past, you talked about prioritizing profit dollars, not margin rate. And I just want to understand, I appreciate the idea of using promotion around new products and trying to get customers in, but you've seen more of the sort of bounceback promotions that you started last November. And I'm just wondering sort of how to reconcile where you are in that process and if you think that there's an opportunity to pull back on some of that promotion or at what point you would be willing to pull back on promotion and let revenue decline.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. I'm going to try to take a crack at following up on the earlier discussions. So it's Stuart. We're balancing a number of factors, as you can appreciate, and I think you recognize that in how you teed up the question. I mean, at the end of the day, in the Victoria's business, we've had traffic pressure for reasons described, and we're trying to drive traffic into the business through promotion. At the same time, the leadership in that business works very hard to have the most compelling product possible. And where we do, we get good result. And that allows us over time to reduce the amount of promotion in the business. We're always going to end seasons clean with respect to inventory, so that's another balancing factor in all of it. But it's an equation -- not a literal equation. It's a balancing of 4 or 5 main factors, ultimately driving visits into the store, margin dollars and ensuring that we're driving trial in new items. And now over time, as we improve the merchandise or if we've got a key item that's doing really well, Jan mentioned a number of price-ups, we take price-ups where we can in any of the main parts of the business, whether it's Bath & Body, PINK, Beauty, Lingerie. So it's balancing a number of factors, again, I think as you recognize, ultimately looking to drive margin dollars in the business.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Marni Shapiro of The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
So rather than focus on VS like everyone, I thought I'd bug Nick a little bit. You guys have launched a lot of new products again. You did the same thing last spring. So I'm curious if you can talk a little bit about what you are seeing, as she comes into the store, what's working best because it feels like the launches this year are very distinct. You have some very strong fashion products that are driven by the look and -- look of the packaging. You have some cool modern packaging, and then you have a whole push on naturals and organics. So without giving away trade secrets, if you can just give us a little insight as to what your customer is leaning towards and what's working for BBW.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks for the question. Let me see, where shall I start with this? I think at the core of our business, what we're seeing is a very nice trajectory in terms of comp. And that's really being driven by a healthy mix of, what is the loyal customer that knows us and knows us well, what is she looking for? And we stayed very close to her from that perspective, and I would say the core of the business is quite healthy. The other part of the comp or other part of the growth has really come from what you've just articulated, the newness that we've dropped that has certainly fallen into the healthy, good-for-you wellness bucket as well as some of the fashion ideas that we've launched that obviously drive traffic because at the end of the day, we do think of ourselves as a fashion brand, and we do try to make sure the front of the store reflects that. So to summarize that, I'd say a really healthy mix between, what is the core loyal customer looking for us that she knows and loves us for, and what have we been able to do with new introductions that have gained a healthy element of traction in the store? So I think the way you're seeing it is probably a fair indication of -- or a fair summary of what's happened.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Can you talk about of the magalog a little bit, the cost, the return on investment for the return to a magalog and how you're thinking about the magalog in terms of the overall marketing mix? And just lastly, on these store operations at Victoria's Secret, how is the progress on that going?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana. We'll go to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Dana. I'm not going to get into the financial network and matrix of the magalog business model, but I'll tell you that what we did recognize is that we have a lot of great content, and we want to share that with a lot more people. So we're investing in the opportunity to develop a piece that she actually, we're finding, keeps around the house a little bit longer, has longer engagement, has had a higher response for us than the traditional CRM. So as the product continues to evolve and we have stories to tell and we have connections and information to share, we want to make sure that we're getting that information out to her as an existing customer as well as a new customer as well as a lapsed customer. So we feel really strong about the test that's happening. We're going to watch it, and we're going to calendar how many and how often go forward. Your second question was about store operations. I'm sorry, Dana, can you repeat it?
Dana Telsey:
Yes. It's about the store operations of Victoria's Secret and how the changes are progressing.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Dana, I'll take a crack at it, and then Denise or Greg or Jan may want to add to it or -- the focus at Victoria's Secret is the same as it is, frankly, at Bath & Body Works. And first and foremost, it's to -- through effective engagement with store associates to deliver great experiences in stores. As you know, we increased our wage levels and enhanced our benefit programs, the purpose of which was to make sure that we were very competitive on that front to drive a more stable, lower-churning workforce. And so our primary focus is on ensuring that we've got the absolute best workforce in retail at Bath & Body, at Victoria's Secret, all aspects of the business with a particular focus on wages and benefits. And then apart from that, in terms of fundamentals around technology and scheduling and all kinds of things, we continue to do various things to improve the execution of our business. But it really starts and ends with the quality of our associates, their training, their capability and the stability of that workforce. And the whole business is focused on that. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Bob Drbul of Guggenheim Securities.
Robert Drbul:
Just if I could do 2 quickly, I'm sorry. The first one is on the remodels for Bath & Body Works, where do you see that going in terms of how many stores do you feel like you need to touch at this point and over the longer-term time frame? And just a question on the Victoria's Secret brand in China is, with the fashion show, I guess can you just give us an update where you think the brand is from a marketing perspective in China at this point?
Amie Preston:
Sure. We'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
So I would say over the course of the next 3, 4 years, there's probably another 500 to 700 stores that we could get to, which would get us a total of about somewhere between 1,100, 1,200 stores in totality. And that's obviously dependent upon when were stores touched previous to the remodel that we've got, where are we on existing leases as we continue to have good flexibility with our real estate. So that's probably where we're headed. And we -- as I said earlier, we continue to be happy with the results that we're getting, but we also continue to monitor them very, very closely to make sure that they still make sense and that they're still working the way that we want them to work.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick. And Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So certainly, the fashion show is very good for our awareness building in China. We think that something in the order of 300 million people saw the fashion show last year either through TV or digital media or some other way. So we think we have a pretty high recognition of the brand, but what's less well understood is what the brand stands for and what role the brand can play in our customers' lives. So we certainly have work to do there. And the way that we're getting it there is principally through digital connections, so building our digital file, building the e-com channel rapidly. And as we start to open these additional stores in new cities, we'll be announcing the brand in a very important and aspirational way, not least with the launch of a flagship store in Hong Kong, which will be the third of 3, Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, as really important beacons for the brand. So certainly, high awareness and work to do on getting the equity of the brand in the right place.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our call today. Hope everyone has a great Memorial Day weekend, and thank you for your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
Thank you. That does conclude the L Brands First Quarter 2018 Earnings Conference Call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Regina, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Fourth Quarter 2017 Earnings Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Regina. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' fourth quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, February 3, 2018.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our fourth quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. Joining us today are Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Denise Landman, CEO of PINK; Jan Singer, CEO of Victoria's Secret Lingerie; Greg Unis, CEO of Victoria's Secret Beauty; and Martin Waters, CEO of International. Andrew Meslow, COO of Bath & Body Works is filling in for Nick Coe, who is under the weather today. All of the results that we discuss today are on an adjusted basis and exclude the special items detailed in our press release. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone.
Although our fourth quarter adjusted earnings per share of $2.11 were above our initial guidance of $1.95 to $2.10, the upside was related to a favorable tax rate. Absent the impact of the lower-than-forecasted tax rate, we delivered an earnings per share result toward the lower end of our range. On a 13-to-13-week basis, operating income declined by 5%. And although this result is an improvement versus the third quarter, we had expected to do better. Our performance was mixed. Growth in operating income at Bath & Body Works versus last year and our forecast was more than offset by a decline at Victoria's Secret. Turning to 2018. We're very focused on improving performance in the Victoria's Secret business, staying close to our customer, improving the customer experience in stores and online and improving our assortment with compelling and new product launches. We will continue to be disciplined in the management of inventory, expenses and capital. Following an extensive evaluation of our wage rates by market, we are making investments in our workforce by increasing wage rates and benefits, principally for hourly associates. These investments will help us continue to attract and retain high-quality talent and be an employer of choice. The impact of these investments is approximately $100 million in 2018 and is included in our guidance. Excluding the impact of these wage investments, our operating income forecast is for low-single-digit growth at the high end of our range. We as a management team would not be satisfied with that result and are working hard to do better. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Denise.
Denise Landman:
Thanks, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. I plan to share a brief overview of PINK's Q4 results and brief thoughts about our outlook leading into spring.
For the quarter, our intimates categories, specifically bras and panties, both drove mid to high single digit growth versus last year while expanding margin rates. Bra sales and unit growth were driven principally by our Wear Everywhere and the sports franchises, driven by a strong fashion offering. Panties were also strong across all silhouettes and collections, driven by continued newness. For holidays specifically, we felt strongly that we succeeded in servicing the gift giver through a strong fashion offering. Our gifting collections as well drove strong double-digit growth versus last year on an expanded margin rate. Apparel had areas of success and disappointment, therefore, we would characterize our apparel performance as mixed. Key packages related to opulence, cozy and bling that were shared at the prior investor walk-through performed very well and experienced high sell-throughs. The balance of the apparel assortment, however, disappointed our self-purchaser, and we're applying those learnings to our go-forward assortment architecture. Therefore, in aggregate, PINK's Q4 comps were up slightly and category performance, as mentioned, was mixed. Despite this result, we continue to feel positive about the strength of the brand and our ability to serve and emotionally engage our customer. Our digital and social channels are strong, engagement is up and the PINK Nation program continues to grow and be effective. Leading into spring, we'll continue to focus on our customer and operate our business with speed, agility and simplicity. Thank you, and I'd like to turn it over to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Denise. Good morning, everybody.
As you read in the pre-circulated materials, 2017, we made progress on resetting the business post the changes in 2016. While results overall were down, we improved sales and margin throughout the year from down high-single digits in Q1 to down mid-single digits in Q4. This progress was led by a deep focus on the customer and products starting with the core, our bra business. Based on continued engagement with the customer, we continue to rebalance the bra mix, offering her choices of bras with benefits, balanced with high fashion and constructed and unconstructed. This was led by launches of Illusion, Angel Max, T-shirt, and the results here were sales growth in our constructed bra business. In addition, we began to reset panty business as promised, making progress with comps in the 5 for panty program, which were up 12 of the 13 weeks in non-red-line product during the quarter. Our sport business and base continue to grow with apparel comps up and sport bra AUR up. We offered her key adjacent categories like casual sleep and lounge that we shared at the last investor meeting that worked to attract new customers and had a 40% attachment to bra selling in Q4. We integrated digital into the brand, and progressive growth has happened throughout the year, ending with a double-digit comp up in Q4. Engagement with millions of consumers in-store and online continues to be our competitive advantage in terms of product creation, but also in terms of how we stay connected and build and retain loyals. We're proud of the progress but also recognize there's much more for us to do as we continue to reset this business. In 2018, we're focused on continuing to strengthen the core with bras with benefits, balancing with fashion. And we feel optimistic about our innovation and fashion pipeline in this space. We're continuing to improve our panty business by focusing and reframing our 3 for business and single ticket. We're focused on building our key adjacent categories, which are important, as mentioned, to driving our core bra business and new customer acquisition and retention. With customer engagement, we will be leveraging our new integrated marketing team and our marketing spend into performance marketing in efforts that drive loyals and results across channels. Last but not least, our leadership team for Victoria's Secret Lingerie is in place. I'm most excited about the competency, chemistry and the composition of this team as it's a blend of 100% L Brand knowledge with external knowledge, the diversity of those thoughts is bringing new solutions. Again, I feel confident and optimistic that we are making progress, and I look forward to your questions. Turning it over to Greg.
Greg Unis:
Thank you, Jan.
As you read in our prepared remarks, Q4 ended a year of significant growth and progress for the beauty business, with mid-single-digit comps and merchandise margin growth. Over the course of the year, we've experienced positive sequential growth in sales and margin. Our best-selling fragrances are up year-over-year, where we drove mid-single-digit growth in sales and margin. We transformed our Mist Collection business through relevant fashion and newness. Our digital channel drove significant growth for the quarter and for the whole full year. As we look forward, at the beginning of February, we successfully relaunched the PINK beauty business, which is off to a strong start. Last week, we launched Bombshell Seduction, a new complementary scent to our #1 fragrance, bombshell, with promising results. We continue to be focused on driving fashion and newness through Mist Collection, lip and accessories. We are confident in our business model and our continued growth. We're focused on building upon what's working, making big bigger, leaning into speed and agility, testing and learning from new ideas and always maintaining connectivity to the Victoria's Secret and PINK brands. Thank you for joining this morning. I'll hand it over to Andrew Meslow.
Andrew Meslow:
Thank you, Greg, and good morning, everyone. I will make just a few comments to build on the prepared remarks that were shared as part of the earnings release.
At Bath & Body Works, we are encouraged that we were able to deliver solid results in the fourth quarter, our biggest and most important quarter, as both sales and operating income grew 11% in the 14-week period. As Nick described on the Q3 earnings call, we had seen sales momentum building through October as we were able to utilize our read and react capabilities to chase into more of the seasonally relevant collections that the customer expects from us in the fall. That same read and react approach on both chasing seasonal product and flexing holiday promotional activities allowed us to maintain and build sales momentum in our key November and December Christmas selling season. We also were able to end the year with a very successful semiannual sale that drove strong January comps.
Looking forward to 2018, we remain cautiously optimistic that we can continue to drive strong sales and operating income growth while also investing in the long-term health and relevance of our brand. Those investments include:
Developing and launching new and innovative products, continuing to invest in our fleet with the ongoing remodel strategy that continues to deliver solid results and investing in our customer experience in both our stores and digital platforms.
Thank you, and I will now turn the conversation over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Andrew. Good morning, everybody.
As I look back on our international business' performance in 2017, at a high level, I have 4 key takeaways. Firstly, the partner-based businesses are doing well, with good operating income growth for the quarter and the year and at high operating income rate. Secondly, we continue to invest in China, which we believe will be a significant market for us. VSBA stores and e-commerce through the Tmall platform are both doing well. And the 7 full assortment stores, 5 of which were opened in the fourth quarter, are progressing pretty much as we expected. Thirdly, as you know, the U.K. business was very challenging for us in 2017. And finally, overall, comps in the international segment were broadly in line with the patterns that we saw in each of our North American businesses.
In 2018, our priorities with respect to international are:
Firstly, continuing to scale in China, where we'll open another 10 to 11 stores; secondly, improving our performance in the U.K.; and finally, continuing to build on the success of our partner-owned stores globally.
With that, I'll turn it over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions that you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Regina.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question will come from the line of Brian Tunick with the Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
Question, I guess, Stuart, maybe on the $100 million wage investment. It sounded like you guys were already ahead of the curve on spending on the employee side. Can you maybe talk about any productivity benefits that you're expecting from this $100 million spend? And then maybe Jan can talk about the decline in the unstructured bras. How much were units down in that category? And when do we start to lap the unit declines in bralettes as we move into the year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Brian, it's Stuart. Thanks for the question on our investment in wages and benefits. As you appreciate, having highly talented, stable workforce is critical in our business. And as we looked at the labor markets, as we looked at where we stacked up competitively, we made an evaluation market-by-market to increase wage levels and enhance maternity and paid time-off benefits, focused on our hourly workers. Again, labor markets are tightening up. Major retailers have recently announced increases in wage rates, and we want to make sure that we're very competitive in terms of how we pay and the benefits provided to our workers. As to productivity, our hourly workforce is critical in the success of our business, and we look at productivity in lots of ways. And that starts with having a very talented, stable workforce and we think these changes will contribute to that front. Thank you.
Jan Singer:
Okay. Relative to the bralette question, Brian. Thank you. I would say we are working on balancing our mix. As you know, we launched bras like Illusion and the T-shirt Bra recently, was just helping us get there quicker. We have -- we're lapping also in Q1 and Q2 significant bralette business. And I would say the more velocity we have on constructed, the faster we can get there, but we're still in a balancing mode and the bralettes are still part of our mix. But I'm very confident the bras that we are launching, and those driving rebalance in the time needed.
Operator:
Your next question will come from the line of Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Can you talk about the gross margin line a little bit? It looks like when you make the adjustment for the reclassification of credit income, you're kind of implying gross margins will be down 30 bps. But given the 2% to 4% comp guide, it feels, like, maybe there should be some leverage in there on occupancy. But maybe help us walk through how we're thinking about the puts and takes in gross margin this year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Omar, it's Stuart. So we think there will be -- and we'll work hard to do better than this result, but we think there will be some slight for the year, some slight deleverage or decline in the merchandise margin rate. And we think that the buying and occupancy component of -- is all at the high end of the range. The buying and occupancy component of gross profit will be about flat year-on-year. To your point, the classification of the economics related to the proprietary credit card provided benefit in that line, so that is part of the equation and put pressure on the SG&A rate. So we're going to work hard to improve on that result through the year. But as we made a judgment about how to position things at this stage, we think there will be a little bit of pressure on the merch margin line in 2018.
Omar Saad:
And Stuart, is that promo-driven? Or are you making some investments in price?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It's a combination. I'm not trying at all to avoid that question, Omar. It's a combination of a lot of things, as you can appreciate. And as we just balanced the recent trends in the business along with our views about the quality of ideas that we have and what it will take to move the business in 2018, we think there will be slight pressure on the merchandise margin rate, but it's a function of a lot of different things. And again, we'll work hard to get to a better result. Another thing that we shared consistently, and again, you would appreciate this is, is it's always a balancing act between volume and margin rate. And we're focused very much on margin dollars, and we do our best to -- obviously, to strike that balance between volume and margin rate. And a last point in the equation is that as our business grows at a faster rate online, in the direct channel, there is a little bit of mix dilution on the gross profit or merchandise margin line in that business. Again, our direct businesses is a very profitable business, as you appreciate. But in terms of a rate mix effect on that line, you get a little bit of drag through the faster growth rate online than in stores.
Operator:
Your next question will come from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is on the Victoria's Secret operating margin. I'm wondering, Stuart, if you could explore what needs to happen, either in 2018 or 2019 and beyond, that would allow Victoria's Secret to start recovering some of the 500 basis points of operating margin lost over the last 2 years? And I just want to confirm on the answer to Omar's question regarding the direct business at a lower merchandise margin. Is that strictly because the shipping expense is classified as a component of merchandise margin? Or is there some other factor that causes the online merchandise margin to be below stores?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I'll take the last part of your question first, Kimberly. And that is, as you suggest in your question, it is due to the fulfillment and shipping cost economics providing a drag on that line versus the store business. So that is, in fact, what's happening. With respect to the operating income rate for the Victoria's Secret segment, as you appreciate from following us a long time, we believe, based on the quality of the Victoria's business, the PINK business is part of it, that, that business, in time, should get back to, if not a little better than its best-ever result. And it's not going to happen overnight, as you appreciate. But there's no reason, structurally, that, that can't be a high-teens operating income rate business when it's running at its peak, if you will. And we see that opportunity. In terms of how to get there, the #1 driver of that or determinant of that will be volume. And so we've had deleverage in the P&L as part of the category exits and other pressures on top line volume that have hurt the operating income rate of that business. And then secondarily, the merchandise margin rate is down meaningfully versus peak, given needs to have different types of promotion and other pressure in the business that, in the near term, have put pressure on that merchandise margin rate. But the headline answer is driving more volume through that business and also being thoughtful and tough-minded about expense trade-offs in that business. We made a big announcement today about investing in wages, but there are lots of aspects to the P&L, if you will. And we will continue to scrutinize all the significant areas of spend in that P&L to make sure that they're appropriately driving sales and profit dollars to the business. But short, short answer is we need volume. And the team's very focused on that through merchandising activities and other activities to drive volume.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Gabriella Carbone:
This is Gabby Carbone on for Paul. So our question is on the SG&A guidance for '18. Could you quantify the impact from marketing investments? And how these investments compare to the amount you spent this past year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Absent the effect of the classification of the economics on the Angel Card, marketing will be down somewhat in 2018 versus 2017 for the company and for the Victoria's segment.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva with Oppenheimer.
Samantha Lanman:
This is Sam Lanman on for Anna. So you've been using various promotions at VS for some time now. What has worked the best and what hasn't? And what kind of markdown cadence do you expect at VS in 1Q and for the year?
Jan Singer:
So Sam, I'm going to go first to Jan and then to Denise for their thoughts around that.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Amie. So I'd say the things that are most effective is when we are really doing consumer relationship marketing. And when we do that, we actually speak to her in a way that resonates, and then she responds. And we're able to build and have shown that we can build loyalty with her. So promotions that really attract her for bras or products that she's already bought from us, we build upon that knowledge. We have a ton of data about who's buying from both stores and online. And we direct messaging, recommendations and products that she'd be interested in. When we offer her that opportunity with varying degrees of brand-accretive moments, she comes in and responds. That's when we're most effective.
Amie Preston:
Denise?
Denise Landman:
So expounding upon that, I would echo that our most effective promotional vehicles reside in what has been intentionally layered into the marketing calendar in a plan-ful manner and points specifically at our core constituency, predominantly the PINK Nation membership, which is comprised of our highest-value shoppers and tends to be highly responsive when we point strong promotional strategies at them, that again, are intentionally layered into our calendar, not reactively laid into our calendar.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
I'm just curious. What's the plan of attack for improving the U.K. business? And how does your experience there influence your thinking about growth potential in other European markets?
Denise Landman:
Thanks, Paul. Martin will take that one.
Martin Waters:
Yes. Thanks, Paul, for the question. First thing I would say is that the pattern of performance we see generally in international is pretty much the same as the pattern that we see the domestic businesses, be it in Victoria's, be it PINK, be it in BBW. So I think we always say, if you have strong business at home, you have strong business away. And that's pretty much the shape of it in the U.K., except that the U.K. performance has been exacerbated by very, very difficult market conditions there that I talked about on previous calls, don't need to go into now. Suffice to say, it's a relatively small business, 20 stores. We'll be growing it in a pretty small way, only adding stores where we've already committed real estate, and just really doubling down on the focus of execution, making sure we can deliver that business the best that we possibly can. I'll be spending a lot of time there, and certainly one of my key priorities going forward.
Paul Lejuez:
Martin, what is the plan for the rest of Europe, then?
Martin Waters:
For the rest of Europe, we have 2 partners in place. We have VSBA stores up and running, and we will be opening some VSFA stores in 2018 and into 2019. So it's the market, it's the area of the world we are least penetrated, as you probably know. We feel good about the partners that we have, and we will be advancing that. It's a lower priority than other areas, as you know. #1 priority is China. We have a very big business with Alshaya in the Middle East and Eastern Europe, that's a high priority. We see great growth in Southeast Asia. The continental Europe is not the highest priority, but rest assured, we do have partners there and we will be growing the business there.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Adrienne Yih with Wolfe Research.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Stuart, I was wondering if you can talk about the store footprints, perhaps some color on exposure to ABC malls. I know they're largely almost all profitable. And the opportunity for rent reduction there? And then just another question on the e-commerce. You had said it's profitable, but is it more profitable as a channel than the brick-and-mortar currently?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So I'll take the last part of that, again, first. So our online businesses are more profitable than our store-based businesses, both at Bath & Body and at Victoria's Secret. With respect to our real estate footprint, as we've outlined pretty consistently, we are well diversified across mall types. And by reminder, about 30% of our store locations are not in enclosed shopping malls. We very actively managed the fleet, opening and closing stores every year. As we look at our capital spending plans for 2018, the level of activity and the level of investment in Victoria's Secret is down versus the last several years. And we're continuing to invest at a pretty steady rate in the project activity for Bath & Body Works, those White Barn remodels as we refer to them, we're continuing on that program, given the strong sales results that we've seen. And we're continuing to invest as it relates to real estate store buildup in China, as you would expect. So we believe we're moderating, we're adjusting our investment in North America appropriately based on recent performance. With respect to strategy or a game plan about rent reduction, the headline there would be we certainly don't want to overpay for rents and we don't believe that we do. And with that said, as we've talked about pretty consistently, the most important thing as it relates to managing real estate is to ensure that you have the best locations. And certainly, in the best malls, there is some inflation when one renews leases, and it's well worth it in terms of the sales result that you get and the profit dollar result that you get. But in a mall situations that are more difficult in terms of the nature of the mall, we have very favorable rent terms, including a lot of flexibility where we can leave those situations with little, if any, lease liability based on tenancy provisions and other aspects of those leases. So again, actively managing the portfolio, but rent reduction as a strategy per se is not a big part of our strategy, understanding that we're not looking to overpay on rents.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Hello? It's Dana.
Amie Preston:
Dana, we hear you.
Dana Telsey:
What changes did you see in customer demand at PINK loungewear? And what changes are you making in the assortment to improve trends there? How do you think about it go-forward? And Stuart, any puts and takes as we go through 2018 in terms of quarterly cadence to be aware of?
Amie Preston:
PINK, it's Denise.
Denise Landman:
I would say that the headline with respect to loungewear, and this would be with the exception of those gifting trend strategies that were well received by the market, we did have some fashion misses in the core loungewear segment, and that has been the primary drag, if you would, on the aggregate lounge performance. Those areas have been well identified and isolated. And through the agility work that we do in region with our mass partners, we are rapidly course-correcting the mix issues as we've isolated them. I think we scan situation at the present time and see signs that we can return the business to normalcy within pretty short order.
Amie Preston:
Great, thanks. And Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Dana, with respect to color in terms of the quarters of the year without getting into the detail of it, which is not what you're asking, what -- the headline I would give you is that we'd expect that the merchandise margin rate result, the year-on-year result in merchandise margin rate, will improve sequentially through the year. So that's the key thing that I would highlight. The other thing to be aware of is based on the joy of the fiscal calendar, there is a calendar shift that will benefit particularly the second quarter in 2018 versus '17 as we pick up a back-to-school week that we wouldn't have had a year ago. But in terms of the fundamentals of the business, apart from the calendar, expecting and working hard to see progress evident through the merchandise margin rate result as we move through the year.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kara Szafraniec with Northcoast Research.
Kara Kavanaugh:
I had a quick question on Bath & Body Works. Hoping maybe to get some more color on the decision to increase the promotional cadence in the fourth quarter. And how does your promotional plan in Bath & Body Works through fiscal '18 compare to fiscal '17?
Andrew Meslow:
Thanks for the question. So through much of 2017, we actually communicated that merchandise margin rates were down because of increased promotional activity that was required to drive results in the first 3 quarters. But in the fourth quarter, actually, what we communicated was slightly different in that we were about flat promotionally in the November and December time frame. We had a lot of new and differentiated ideas from a promotional standpoint, but in aggregate, about flat. Really, what drove the increase in promotional activity for the full quarter was the outperformance of our semiannual sale activity in the month of January, and that is what fundamentally put the drag on merchandise margin rate for Q4. On a forward-looking basis, as we've discussed on prior calls, we generally enter into any time frame planning essentially flat promotional activity year-over-year, and then we adjust up or down accordingly based on what we see from a combination of activities, including customer acceptance of our products, traffic patterns that we see both in stores and online, and then the results of the very diverse group of tests that we're constantly running. And those group of tests are really what -- when we talk about our read and react capabilities, it is those group of tests that we look at, where results both from a long-term strategic ability to make changes to our promotional cadence, get higher AURs as we make investments into our products. And then very importantly, on a very short-term basis, where literally day-to-day, week-to-week, we may change our promotional activity up or down based on the results of those tests in order to maximize short-term results. So long-winded answer to your question in terms of on a forward basis, we would be expecting relatively flat promotional activity and we will adjust accordingly.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Stuart, just on the digital front, can you talk about some of the key investment priorities this year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. The most important thing that we're doing -- Mark, thanks for the question, is we're making substantial investments in the, what I'll call, the core technology platform for the Victoria's Secret digital business. It's a platform we've been running with for a long time that needs to be updated, and we're in the process of updating that. And it will provide the foundation to do a lot of things from a customer standpoint that we'll look to do over the next several years. But the most intensive activity in 2018 is to replace a platform we've been running with for a long time with the current platform. Again, that will provide the foundation to do a lot of stuff that we can't today do at present. It also gives us a foundation for global business over time on that same platform. But '18's investment is a significant one, but I would describe it as foundational.
Mark Altschwager:
And just quick follow-up there. Stuart, you've long talked about goals to grow SG&A slower than sales. And you've shown success over time. Just given the current reality on the labor front and the strategy you talked about digitally, I mean, is that still a reasonable goal over the next few years, taking kind of the $100 million out of it for this year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I think it depends on time frame which you recognize in your question. But I would say, over the next several years, we'll look to -- and it gets back to Brian Tunick's question, which is how are you going to get productivity out of that investment? And we expect to get productivity out of that investment through more capable, more stable, lower-churning workforce. But that will take several years to get done. But we will be very focused on it. And we won't wait several years to get after that. But it will take a couple of years to play through the numbers.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Chethan Mallela with Barclays.
Chethan Mallela:
I want to ask about investments in the China business. I believe you had a net loss of around $50 million in 2016 and had been expecting the losses to peak in 2017 and then step down in 2018. So can you provide a little more detail in the actual EBIT impact this year in 2017 and just how you're thinking about that for 2018? And then as a quick follow-up, I think at ICR you mentioned that in that market, there were some initial learnings around product-sizing. So is that fully resolved? And can you just give an update on where that stands?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Chethan.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So thanks for the question. As it relates to the operating loss in China in 2018, it will be similar to the amount in 2017. Again, we'll work hard to improve on that result. But in our current view and what's implicit in our guidance is an '18 loss that's similar to the '17 number. We had thought 6 or 12 months ago, that might be slightly improved. But as we sit here today, we think it'll be about the same, and we'll work hard to get to a better result. And again, you appreciate the view that we have about the long-term potential of that market and our investment in it. There's a lot of things that go into it in terms of preopening rents and various dynamics that can be a bit hard to predict in terms of their specific timing. So that's where we are financially with it. And turn it over to Martin on the other part of the question.
Martin Waters:
Yes. When we opened the lingerie business in China, we started with 2 stores deliberately, just 2 stores, in different geographies, so we can get a read on what was happening with the sizing. And as you would expect, we anticipated that the customer were to come up smaller than in other parts of the world, and we distorted merchandise accordingly. Well, as soon as we opened, realized that we hadn't distorted anywhere near enough. The customer is significantly smaller than we see anywhere else in the world, and that shows up particularly in 32 band bras. So your question is, have we resolved that? Yes, we have. We now have the same representation of choices in 32 band that we have in our most popular size, which is 34 band. And we have significantly more depth of inventory. So when the 5 stores that I mentioned earlier opened in the fourth quarter, they opened with at least 50% of their bra inventory in 32 band or smaller. So yes, we've resolved that. We've also made additions in terms of color, where there are different customer preferences around color, red being particularly strong. And yes, we remain confident in the appeal of the brand and our ability to execute. So thanks for the question.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
Martin, I'm going to keep you busy. Just another follow-up on the China business. I guess, just when we take a step back, you guys have taken that business in-house about 2 years ago. Can you just talk about the pieces of the business where you're pleased or you're seeing above-plan results? And maybe on the other side, just maybe where you hope you could have done a little bit better and hope to do better, maybe piecing that business out across your online Tmall business, the retail stores, the flagships you've opened. And then just on top of that, just what kind of revenue growth should we expect in 2018 just for China specifically?
Martin Waters:
Yes. Thanks for the question, Ike. I could take the rest of the call talking about China, and my colleagues around the table asking me not to, so I'll be relatively quick. There are 3 components to the business in China. You're right, when we took over the business from our partner, [ Balmain ], who did a terrific job, there were about 30 VSBA stores widely spread across the country. And following our ownership of those stories, we've seen significant improvement in comp performance, not just in the first year, but in the second year on top of that. So very pleased with the performance of that business. And what we have done is we've closed some of the stores where the deals weren't as good as they should be. But we definitely see potential for the VSBA business, for the standalone beauty business, to grow significantly across China in the coming years. So that's the first part. The second part of the business is the online business, which has been through 3 phases. We began with Tmall global, which is shipping from North America on our 14-day lead time. We then move to Tmall local, which is shipping on a next-day basis, and business has been growing very rapidly. It is now more than our largest store, as one might expect. And we're seeing growth day-on-day, week-on-week, a really, really, really good response to that. We'll also, this year, be adding a China -- .cn site so that we can direct customers directly from all social media platforms to our own site as well to the Tmall site. So significant progress online. And of course, it enables us to reach every corner of the Chinese market, which gives us great learning in terms of sizing and customer appeal for geographies where we're not currently active. And then a third business is the full assortment stores where we are anchored with 3 flagships that enhance presence of Victoria's in China, in Hong Kong, in Shanghai, in Beijing. And then opening smaller mall-based stores at sort of 5,000 to 7,000 square feet in all of the major Tier 1 to Tier 2 cities. I mentioned earlier, 5 open right now, we'll add another 10 or 11. And I think you probably have enough data there to do your own modeling about how we see the growth of the business. It will be significant growth year-over-year. And on what the plan is for '19, we'll wait and see. We'll read through the early part of Q1, Q2 and then we'll make commitments for '19 beyond that.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Had a question for Jan. Jan, how are you thinking about the matrix that you laid out with day/night and overnight in terms of the occasions? And also, what you're solving for in the context of the recent performance? And a second general question, just about LB and customer analytics. What are your thoughts about loyalty and analytics to drive customer acquisition, retention and lifetime value as you look to use that and to empower that? What can happen there? And can there be an interplay with utilization of direct mail just to ensure that, that is a healthy brand-appropriate lever?
Amie Preston:
Okay, let's start with Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks for the question. Yes. Well, as we mentioned along the way, it always first starts with the customer, know her, and then solving her sexy, I like to say, with product, and then serving her. And in the solve part, we do believe there is a day/night, overnight part of her life. And in addition to that, throughout the year, we've launched products against that. So if you think about her everyday, the Illusion launch is an everyday bra. It has VS technology inside, so moving wings, and we saw great success in the launch last August. And we relaunched about a week ago a new strapless bra, and there's been really strong response. In the night or fashion part, high-fashion part, Dream Angels business, for us, has been a real shining star. It's about plus 30%, let's just say growth, in the last fiscal year, really steeped in fashion, bra that's fashion-matter. A lot of bras are outerwear at this moment, and it comes from this book of business. And in the highly provocative segment, we do also have some moments of great, great brightness. Our collaboration last holiday drove real interest in this space. We saw bras with very high ASP with baskets and new customers coming in. There's clearly work to do in all 3 sectors to offset the highly promotional unconstructed bra business that was there the year before. But I like that I'm seeing traction against her wardrobing for her life, same consumer buying for different reason. Second part of the question, I'll turn it to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Jan. On loyalty and analytics, just to cover it broadly, Oliver, obviously, it's an important subject. As a company, L Brands has made and is making investment, discrete investment in people and technology to deepen our big data, machine learning, analytical capabilities, and we're getting some utility out of that. Obviously, a lot of information in our business about consumer behavior, customer behavior. And I'd say we're making progress on that big agenda. A lot more to do, but we're making meaningful investments in that space. With respect to loyalty, probably 3 main thoughts. One is loyalty, first and foremost, comes from great experiences with our brands in stores and online. And everyone in the business is focused on that. As you know, the Angel Card at Victoria's has a loyalty component to it as a second thought. But as a third thought, Victoria's, PINK and Bath & Body Works all are evaluating, thinking about -- nothing specific to announce in detail today, about loyalty programs beyond that, but no specific announcements today. And what that may look like in '18 or '19, but a big subject. But investing in capabilities, very focused on great experiences. Again, Angel Card is a meaningful portion of tender and customer activity within Victoria's. And there's more to do. Denise has a great following through PINK Nation. That's another example of a loyalty communication. But there's more for us to do, and we're sorting out what those priorities will be for '18 and '19.
Amie Preston:
We have time for 2 more questions.
Operator:
Our next question will come from the line of Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
I have a question for Denise and for Jan. Denise, perhaps you could talk a little bit about your lead times and your confidence in being able to turn around the fashion business in short order. And maybe a comment on trends in the logo business of PINK. And Jan, would you review your most successful traffic-driving initiatives at Victoria's Secret? I'm wondering what the learnings are there and how you can capitalize on that as we look forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. We'll start with Denise.
Denise Landman:
So with respect to lead time, we worked systematically over, I would say, the last 3 to 5 years on doing 2 things with respect to lead times. One is effective in-region work through our partnerships that would facilitate speed within the manufacturing sector. Equally looking for opportunities within our own sphere of influence, what I would refer as the upstream work, to simplify our model to enable faster decision making that then flows through [indiscernible] operate more efficiently on our behalf. So we make slow and steady improvements. We see opportunity every year to make that better. And I think we avail ourselves of those opportunities as the opportunity resides in speed always. With respect to the logo business, our hallmark has always been the logo of the brand. It continues to be a cornerstone of our success. We, however, happen to be in a trend that pays some deference to brand logo, known as logo mania. So we take full advantage of the market interest in that particular sector, as freely as we might, preserving the integrity of our own logo as a reference point, which has always been very important and meaningful.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks. Jan?
Jan Singer:
Sure. Thanks for the question. I would say, just building on what Oliver asked, it starts, first and foremost, with -- great traffic comes from great product, which comes from great consumer insights and customer insights. So we feel really confident about the exposure and time we have with customers and the product that we're building against that. And then once we really build the assortment in a way that emotionally connects, we drive traffic. The next thing that's important is, of course, the engagement. We're seeing great traction, most recently engagement on social media, as well as our emails. When we get into that dialogue with her and we really are agile with that vehicle, we see traffic because she has to be aware of what we're building. That awareness is a really important thing, obviously. And then we do reward her for shopping, for our existing customer, to build loyals. And we also surprise and delight those that just started shopping with us, and we do that many different ways, depending on the moment, depending on the book of business. But it is a very thoughtful approach. It starts with connection to the consumer, product, engagement, and then a way to reward her or thank her for being part of our loyal program.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Jan. Janet, go ahead.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Yes, I just wanted to ask Jan. It seems like she wants to be rewarded, and that's a discounting, is really what drives the customer traffic. I'm just wondering, as the product continues to get better, and I do think it looks great, do you have confidence that, that level of rewarding her or discounting, and hits the margin, can start to come in a bit?
Jan Singer:
Yes. I don't think rewarding is just discounting, right? There are many ways to do, as Stuart mentioned and Denise has proven with PINK Nation, there are many ways to have a reward for your customer. Simple things like engagement with her, giving her early access to our fashion show online, content that she'd want from us. There are -- we have many ways to reward the customer, so I think of rewarding is a much broader spectrum, but thank you for the question.
Amie Preston:
Last question, please.
Operator:
Our final question will come from the line of Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is for Greg. I know that you launched beauty at PINK. Was wondering how you think about that business, how big is it now and how do you see the opportunity? And then just a follow-up on the wages and the workers. I know that you spent the last couple of years investing in your full-time workers. And I'm just wondering if you're satisfied with the balance of full time versus part time. Is that optimized? And are you getting the productivity out of that balance that you're looking for?
Greg Unis:
Thank you for the question. We're very excited about PINK. It launched -- relaunched in our stores at the beginning of February. We spent a lot of time connecting with our customer to evolve the assortment. We have a deep connection with the PINK customers through our campus reps, and so we spent a lot of time getting to know her and tailoring the assortment appropriately. The early reads are very strong. You can see it online and in our stores. Lots of excitement around it. We started in holiday in Q4 really going after PINK in a much bigger way with some key items that sold quite well, and we're driving traffic into the store. So we're overall very pleased. It's very early days. And it's an under-developed business for us, we recognize, but we see big opportunity in the future.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Roxanne, it's Stuart. With respect full time and part time complements and how we manage our sales force in stores. I would say we've made progress on that opportunity. And with that said, it's complicated, as you can appreciate. Fundamentally, what we're trying to do, wherever possible, is to have associates work more hours per week so that they're more familiar with the assortment, the business, the customer, that's pretty intuitive. With that said, we have a business that has different traffic patterns by day of week and even within a given day. And so we know you've got a pretty variable traffic pattern that you also got to figure out how to deal with and optimize. So I'd say we've made progress. And the goal is to have people working as many hours as possible that makes sense economically because they'll have a better familiarity, again, with the store, the merchandise, the customer. And the other key initiative we're focused on, which drives in part of our changes on wages and benefits, is we're continuing to work on reducing turnover in our stores as well to have that more consistent, knowledgeable sales force. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. And thanks, Roxanne. Thank you all for joining us today, and thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
Ladies and gentlemen, this concludes today's conference. Thank you all for joining, and you may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning, my name is Matthew, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Third Quarter 2017 Earnings Conference Call. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Matthew. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands third quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, October 28, 2017. As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our third quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Dein Boyle, COO of PINK; Jan Singer, CEO of Victoria's Secret Lingerie; Greg Unis, CEO of Victoria's Secret Beauty; Nick Coe, CEO of Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, CEO of International, are all joining us today. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. It was good to see so many of you at our investor meeting in Columbus a couple of weeks ago. As we preannounced before that meeting, our third quarter earnings per share result of $0.30 was at the high end of our guidance for between $0.25 and $0.30 per share. Importantly, performance improved throughout the third quarter.
Looking forward to the remainder of 2017, our forecast assumes a continuation of improved comparable sales growth and operating income results in the business. We have strong brands that lead their categories with close connections to our customers. Our stores have high sales productivity and 99% of our stores are cash flow positive. Our digital business continues to be strong with both go forward Victoria's Secret and Bath and Body Works delivering double-digit growth in the quarter. We have confidence in our upcoming product launches and are focused on execution, staying close to our customers and leveraging our speed and agility capabilities to read, react and chase. We will also continue to manage inventory, expenses and capital spending with discipline. As a reminder, our comp guidance for November is roughly flat, as we are anniversary-ing aggressive promotion in the Victoria's Secret business last year. We will not be commenting on November business to date this morning as we still have over half of the month ahead of us. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Dein.
Dein Boyle:
Thanks, Stuart. Good morning, everybody. I met many of you in Columbus recently to share the PINK brand strategy and outlook for holiday. We are pleased with our Q3 performance. The business continues to have momentum driven by our core categories of bras and panties. The brand remains focused on rigorous execution of our cost strategies, which include enhanced customer engagement programs, continuos evolution of our speed-to-market practices and disciplined approach to inventory management. As we approach the key holiday selling season, we have distorted focus to execution to ensure the best experience for our visitors, and initial results validate our assortment distortions. Thanks. And I'll turn it over to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Dein. Thank you, everybody. Again, great to meet a lot of you at Investor Day. I remain very optimistic and very energized by the progress we're making at Victoria's Secret Lingerie. We're on the same offense. Obviously, a very sustainable construct, 3 frameworks. Knowing her, it starts with the customer, and knowing her deeply through the thousands of associates we have reaching millions of customers in-store as well as digital and direct through data analytics and our customer service center.
We are also focused on building great product and assortments that offer choices of sexy and an edited assortment to amplify the results. And third, we're here to serve her where she wants and when she wants at the moment of truth, whether that's stores or online. To be loyal to her with authentic engagements is always our opportunity in serving her, all powered by a high-performing team that has come together as recent as last week when our CMO joined the team.
The progress for Q3, we are focused and continue to be focused, on the core of the business, our best act, which is bras. And bras balancing our portfolio with choices of sexy:
unlined, lightly lined and push-up are all in the portfolio. The strength of the core is constructing bras with benefits, balanced with fashion and emotional content. And that's working for us.
In Q3, we launched Illusion. Illusion is a constructed bra that comes in 3 choices. It has an IP around its benefit of sexy smoothing and it has high emotional content. The bra exceeded [indiscernible] launch and continued to sustain at a higher rate than our previously constructed bra launches. It's working, and we will stay on that offense.
In addition, in the bra category, Dream Angels, a very important portfolio for us, has been up double digit on 3 constructed bras as well:
romance, lace, embellishment all working. We are going to continue to offer her choices in the bra category.
In panties, as we discussed, we're resetting. But there are 3 books of business, the [ 5-4 ] business, the [ 3-4 ] matchback business and single ticket. [ 5 4 ] has been tracking up for the last 6 weeks, and we're very excited to see the progress on this reset already happening. Easier to navigate, better content and our pipeline is full going into spring. We are constructing the matchback business and the single ticket, and we'll learn more about that as we head into holiday. Sleep, 2 choices for us. One we've been testing for 6 months in the mix and match and one that we do every year called packaged goods. Mix and match is an incremental business. It has rolled to the chains, and it is working. We are excited that she can make her own solutions of sleepwear. She's attaching it to bras in the box as well as panties, and we are seeing a high penetration of new customers. In addition in sleep, we have a sexy sleep business, which is 100% on trend with sleepwear being worn on the street, lingerie. It's been up double digits for us in the last quarter, and we see that continuing as we head into holiday and spring. Sport, growth driver for us, up double digits as well. The base business is also growing and it's a new customer. The anchor to that in Q3 was the launch of the Angel Max Bra. The Angel Max Bra was launched with strong and in the first single day, did more than our best sport bra launch did in 1 full week. We continue to see that build. It's attaching to tights, multiple tights and tops, a very simple sport construct, a new customer, and we're excited to see that business continue to grow. In the spirit of serving her where she wants to shop, we've integrated the digital business into the brand, as you heard Mr. [ Wexner ] talk about. We are having a more emotional connection with her through that offense in edited assortment and offering, simplified navigation. And the results are strong. In addition, our loyalty program, Angel Card, has been reactivated and reengaged, and we're seeing momentum in that space. We are leveraging marketing investments previously made around things like the show in the spirit of connecting with her. And we're developing a deeper authentic engagement through our social channels so she's converting through digital. Focus go forward, win at holiday, heads are down on that, bringing the momentum into spring and making sure as it is that our pipeline is full for '18 as well as '19 in innovation. With that, I'll turn it over to Greg Unis.
Greg Unis:
Thank you, Jan. Good morning, everyone. I'm going to share some high-level thoughts about third quarter performance in beauty. In Q3, we are pleased with the progress we made to establish a strong foundation and are beginning to build a dynamic business.
Since spring, we've experienced positive sequential growth. Our best-selling fragrances are up year-over-year. During the quarter, in September, we launched Love, our new iconic fragrance. It is the #1 prestige fragrance launch in Victoria's Secret's history and we were very pleased with the results. We layered in fashion and newness in our Mist Collection, lip and accessories, which our customer responded very well to. By focusing on assortment and reducing lead times, we've significantly increased our agility. Overall, I'm confident we are headed in the right direction with positive sequential growth headed into the holiday season. This holiday, we're focused on winning the season. We've developed a thoughtfully conceived balanced assortment of gifting, fragrance, mist and accessories that hits multiple price points, introduces new gift categories and is seamlessly integrated with the total Victoria's Secret brand. On the PINK beauty side, we have significant growth opportunity ahead and will deliver excitement and newness across gifting, seasonal fashion and stocking stuffers. In closing, we are headed in the right direction, seeing positive sequential growth in the business. We're building upon what's working, making big bigger, leaning into speed and agility, and always continuously testing and learning from new ideas. Ultimately, our main focus is on building a healthy business to set us up for accelerated growth in the future. Thank you for joining this morning. And I will now hand it over to Nick Coe.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Greg. Just really a couple of headlines on Q3, and I really like to reiterate what we talked about at the investor meeting, which was we really saw a nice improvement as we went through the quarter. As the quarter progressed, our business got better. And that improvement in performance was predominantly based on us rebalancing the mix from being, well, rebalancing the mix to a more overtly seasonal products and concepts.
As you know earlier in the season, we were heavily focused on relaunching some of our body care businesses. And as a result, I think we really missed some of the seasonal favorites that she was expecting from us. And we were able to correct that in the month of October, saw a very nice trajectory change. And that trajectory change really proves 3 things about the business. First of all, one is that we have tremendous agility and our ability to chase into the right products to meet customers' preferences is a really important part of our business model. Secondly, it proves just how sensitive the brand is to seasonality, and that's a good thing as we think about trying to continue to drive traffic at all times of the year. And thirdly, the customer has a very, very deep loyalty to some very specific returning fragrances, returning concepts and returning franchises as we go into the seasonal periods, which again is good from our ability to control our own destiny, control our own traffic. Us being able to correct that before we got into holiday leaves us feeling cautiously optimistic about the Christmas season. And I think hopefully, as you've seen in the stores, we're starting very clearly for a very seasonal look as it relates to Christmas, a very festive feeling and the store environment really starts to scream Christmas right now. So we should be in a very good shape. Thank you. And I'll return -- hand now over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everybody. Third quarter revenue in the International segment increased by 11%, driven by growth in sales in both Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works. Bath & Body Works in particular had a very strong quarter with solid growth in all categories in all regions of the world.
Our Victoria's Secret full assortment business benefited from significant new store growth. However, the base business continued to see negative comps, similar to those experienced in North America. U.K. business continues to be tough, and we're very focused on getting that business back on track. The Victoria's beauty business gained traction in the quarter as newness started to be delivered during October. As you know, our primary focus is China, and we're investing meaningfully in people, infrastructure, real estate with a conviction that China has enormous long-term potential. And of course, we're excited for the fashion show, which takes place in Shanghai in a few days' time. Amie?
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] And I'll turn it back over to Matthew.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is on gross margin. I wanted to know, Stuart, if you could quantify the shrink impact to gross margin in the quarter and any strategies you have to address shrink. And then, secondarily, in gross margin, maybe Nick could address the merchandise margin line at BBW, the drivers there and how he's feeling about that going forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly. We'll start with Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So the shrink impact in the third quarter, which was driven by Victoria's Secret, was about $12 million. And so that's a significant amount. And absent that effect, the margin rate would have been up in that part of the business. And it's a complex subject, Kimberly, as you and our listeners would appreciate. And our store teams are focused on it, first and foremost, providing a great experience for our customers, but also managing that part of the business. And we're making, we believe, some appropriate improvements in how we manage that aspect of the business. But what we're most focused on is how to best serve our customers, but it had a meaningful effect in the quarter as we trued up our shrink rate.
Amie Preston:
Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Hey, Kimberly. Yes, so as I mentioned, in Q3, that was almost a tale of two cities. The first part of the season was not as good as the second part. And we were slightly more promotional in August and September and not as promotional as we got into October. And so obviously, that had an impact on gross margin. Your question in terms of how do we feel about margin rate as a go forward, I would say pretty good as we've seen a shift in our business in the latter part of October that led us to be less, slightly less promotional. And if I think about our plans going into holiday, we're planning it at about flat to last year, which was -- well, obviously, planning it about flat to last year. Now the caveat, obviously, with that would be holidays. In a normal season, holiday's a long time frame, and we'll see how the environment does. And obviously, with our read and react capabilities, our agility to follow the customer, that may change. But at this juncture, we're planning about flat.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Gabriella Carbone:
This is Gabby Carbone on for Paul. So you managed SG&A nicely this corner. Could you quantify the impact of a decision to increase investment in direct to mail? And then any other puts and takes that we should be thinking about? And then should we be expecting a larger impact from the increase of the investment during holiday, just given the more promotional nature of that quarter?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So with respect to SG&A, we are certainly working to invest appropriately in our marketing activity and also in our store payroll activity in our businesses. We work to strike the right balance, obviously, to make those investments, to drive top line growth and drive profit dollars. But in response to your question, we are making what we believe are appropriate investments, particularly -- year-on-year, particularly at Victoria's Secret, in marketing and store payroll that we believe will contribute to a good sales result and a good profit result.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick with Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
I was hoping that Jan and Nick could maybe talk about how you're flowing new product introductions or maybe the launch calendar for holiday this year versus holiday last year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Brian. Let's start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Hey, Brian. So on a macro level, we're going to be flowing more newness than we flowed last year. That will come in 2 -- from 2 points of view. The first point of view being we've continued to evolve the brand and are looking at -- and getting into newer categories, and that obviously creates newness. The other point of view on the newness that we're flowing is as we look at things that we are famous for during that time frame, they look dramatically different this year than they did last year. And so that sort of adds to the newness. As it relates to the calendar, there are some minor changes in the calendar -- or flow calendar for us, some minor changes, that are really about trying to maximize different time frames of the month, but nothing demonstrable that would make you think differently about -- thinking about our business.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. Jan?
Jan Singer:
Yes, so we will continue to flow newness as planned. We will distort things that she wants most at that time frame. We talked earlier about the casual sleep and pajama business as an example, and we will have sport always on. So we have stepped up our game with things that we have speed and agility on, specifically around things like sport and casual and sexy sleep. And we will react to that as we see going into December and into January.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with B. Riley FBR.
Luke Hatton:
This is Luke Hatton on for Susan. I was just wondering, in the transcript you indicated that you're still seeing some impact from mix shift in terms of constructed versus unconstructed bras. I was just wondering if you had any more detail on how we should be thinking about that balance going forward.
Jan Singer:
Thank you -- it's Luke, right, for Susan? So thank you for the question. I think it is about the journey of getting us into that balance and we're finding our footing in constructed bras. As you read in the script, constructed bras were up this quarter. We continue to see the momentum in that space, and we have healthy margins on that business. That's a really important book for us, and we will continue to build bras with benefits balanced with fashion. And when we do that, we do get paid for that work.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Can you talk about the impact of China versus the U.K. on the weaker International margins? And just how should we be thinking about the drag from China specifically? If you have any early thoughts on that, Stuart, for next year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, as it relates to the investment, Paul, in China and the near-term operating losses and kind of cutting to the thrust of your question, we would expect -- and we'll give more guidance, obviously, in February as it relates to 2018 -- but we would expect that the loss in China will be meaningfully lower in 2018 than we believe it'll be in '17. And that there'll be a steady progression to a profitable business over time. Obviously, you appreciate the opportunity there. But again, I think to the thrust of your question, the amount of loss in '18 will be meaningfully lower than the amount in '17.
Amie Preston:
U.K.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
With respect to the U.K., as Martin has outlined for you, and he's with us here this morning, as we've outlined, there's a lot going on in the U.K. as it relates to the environment. We certainly believe there are opportunities to improve the execution of our business, and Martin and team are focused on that. And we believe that the U.K. is an important market for us and will be a healthy profit market for us over time.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Lindsay Drucker Mann with Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
I wanted to drill into the outlook for November, which anticipates a sequential acceleration on a 2-year basis because you're going up against a really tough comparison. And maybe just getting specifically into Victoria's Lingerie. Jan, if you could talk about some of the initiatives or specific reasons you feel confident that you can sort of go up against really challenging comparisons from the prior year, which was obviously of low quality, but still drove a pretty big top line number.
Jan Singer:
Lindsay, thank you for the question. I think, first and foremost, it comes back to 2 things
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jan. Greg, do you have anything you want to add about November?
Greg Unis:
Sure. Lindsay, you were able to spend time with us in our stores a couple of weeks ago, and I think it gave you a good sense of what's to come and how we're thinking about the holiday season. So that's a pretty good indication of where we are. And if you think about where we were a year ago with product and where we are today with product, we're in a very different place, and we're feeling very good about things as a result.
Dein Boyle:
And for PINK, we continue to execute against a comprehensive game plan, offering a compelling assortment as well as a fully articulated marketing and customer engagement program. We're highly focused on giving her the best experience because as you know, this time of year, we get a lot of -- often new visitors that come into our stores as well as our digital store. And so our focus is to give them the best experience possible. As I articulated earlier, our initial results resonate; we've made distortions, and we're quite happy with the traction we're getting.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva with Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
We had a follow-up on gross margin guide for the fourth quarter. Can you just help us understand what are the driving factors for the decline? Should we think the merchandise margin is expected to be down for the quarter? And then, secondly, to Jan, at Victoria's Secret, you've been testing various marketing and promotional events, some of the couponing is coming back to the brand. Can you maybe talk about some of the learnings there? Where have you seen the biggest attachment rate thus far?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anna. We'll go to Stuart first.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on the gross margin guide for the fourth quarter, I guess the first thing I would say is it's an estimate and it's our best view of an estimate. But the reason I start with that is, at the end of the day, guys, what we're driving for is margin dollars, healthy sales growth, profitable sales growth. And in the major parts of our business, as you've heard this morning from the team, we're not expecting to be more promotional at this point in the fourth quarter than we were a year ago. So in terms of the promotional aspects that would have affect gross margin, not expecting meaningfully more promotion in 2017 than we had in the fourth quarter 2016. And in some cases, we would expect to have less promotion. But we'll see as we manage through the quarter, as Nick described in terms of how we run the business. So -- and we enter the quarter with inventories in great shape. And we believe that we've got good, compelling product ideas. So the gross margin year-on-year change is not that significant. And directionally, it's down slightly. Some of that's affected a bit by the other segment some mix dynamic going on with the other segment. But again, in the major businesses, pretty steady in terms of year-on-year promotion.
Jan Singer:
Okay. So Anna, you asked about our promotional activity. I mean, first and foremost, our job is to protect the core and strengthen the core of the business. We feel good about that and the margins are strong there. We have brand-accretive promotions, which enable us to do 3 things. Number one, introduce the new customer to the store and the new product. I feel good about that. Number two, we are reengaging with customers we haven't seen in about 12 months. That feels also very strong. We've had great success there. And we will always surprise and delight an existing customer. Things like giving her a lip product when she tries on an Illusion bra, feels good for both of us and the customer. That is what we're talking about when we are talking about promotions. We are doing both direct mail and digital. Direct mail has a very strong flow-through for us. She's spending time with that piece and she's coming in. The direct mail is echoing events that are happening in the store. And the only time they deviate is when I talk about those 3 customer experiences.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of the William Reuter with Bank of America.
William Reuter:
My question is on the competitive environment. I read a lot of articles about smaller competitors coming into the intimate space. I'm wondering if you guys are seeing much of a change in the environment and whether you believe that any of these competitors are changing your pricing power at all.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. William, we'll start with Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, William. I think 2 things about this. Number one, we all love competition. It makes us stronger. I think that's always great to see the landscape and we're well aware of it. I track it pretty closely on intimates and apparel as it relates to our customer. What I love about our business is with 1,000 stores and a strong digital flagship store, we are able to offer choices for her. Coming into the store and being fit for a bra is a unique experience with, I think we have 5 bra associates per store that have over -- average tenure of 10 years. So having that engagement, having been a person that did that for 3 months 8 hours a day, 6 days a week, there's nothing that can replace that engagement with the customer. And I welcome the landscape to continue to evolve, so it helps us raise our game. I feel good about that. Dein?
Dein Boyle:
In PINK, while we're aware of competitors and their aspirations, we don't let that become a distraction. We are focused on executing our strategies and we are quite pleased and confident with our strategies.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Chethan Mallela with Barclays.
Chethan Mallela:
So one of the challenges that you've cited for Victoria's Secret in recent periods has been this weaker store traffic related to the exit from swim and your pull-back in some of the promotional activity. As you're lapping some of those actions, are you seeing traffic trends start to stabilize? And just in general, it would be helpful to understand how you're thinking about brick-and-mortar traffic trends across all the banners in the holiday period.
Amie Preston:
Okay. We'll start with Jan.
Jan Singer:
Okay. So Chethan, thank you for the question. Actually, we've seen our traffic improve, especially over the third quarter and sometimes outpacing the mall. In fact, we track both our freestanding stores and our shared stores. And again, when we have great product and we bring her a product that is emotionally resonating with her, she shows up. So I feel very good about the trajectory of that traffic. And again, the key adjacency is balance with the core is what's bringing that momentum into the box.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jan. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
So I think we've seen nice trajectory in traffic recently as we've been able to get into very seasonally relevant products, and how we try to partner that with the right promotional activity has been working well for us. I don't see that changing as we go into holiday, especially as the assortment continues to get more and more seasonal as we go through the season. But once again, holidays is a very volatile period. And we obviously reserve the right, to a certain degree, to sit back from that and see what -- just how is the customer behaving and is there something different, incremental or change that we want to do that could change the course of that traffic, if it was to go into a negative place. But I see the trend we've got now. I would like to hope that, that maintains itself as we go through holiday.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Jamie Merriman with Bernstein.
Jamie Merriman:
My question is about Bath & Body Works. You've seen very solid growth in the direct channel over the last few quarters, just wondering if you can talk about how you think about the margin in that business compared to stores and how you manage across the 2 channels.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Jamie. We'll go to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Sorry, could you -- what was the -- would you mind repeating the question for me, please?
Jamie Merriman:
Sure. So you've delivered really strong growth in the direct channel for BBW over the last few quarters. I was just wondering if you can remind us about how the margins for that direct business compare to stores and how you manage across the 2 channels.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, how we manage across the 2 channels is probably the most important part, which is we really do want it to be a comparable product, comparable product pricing and promotional behavior so that no matter where the customer is interacting with a branch, she gets the same product at the same price, the same promotion. And obviously, that has been working for us for the last number of years as we've been able to maintain growth in both bricks-and-mortar as well as growth in the online channel and very healthy growth in the online channel. At the end of the day, the operating income is fundamentally the same. We don't see a -- in terms of how we manage the business. It just nets itself out, that they're very similar. So there isn't a major difference between the 2 of them.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Our question was about the target for direct mail ahead. Could you articulate a factor that the program needs most going forward and the big opportunity there? And help us just contrast it with prior versions, some of the points around what you're thinking about the consumer and how do you balance traffic versus margin and making sure that your brands stay very elevated.
Jan Singer:
Hey, Oliver, thank you. I think the thing that's the biggest difference for us year-on-year around direct mail is really about customer segmentation, being able to really get deep into the file, understand who's in, who's out, how we pivot the file towards the one who's going to emotionally and actively engage and connect with product. Getting that fidelity going is, as you know, the new landscape of marketing. So the big difference is no blunt instrument. I think Greg would agree with that as well. It's high fidelity. It's absolutely about engagement and it's meeting her where she's going to react. That was the first part of your question. I didn't quite track on the second. Sorry, Oliver.
Oliver Chen:
I think that helps us understand, just contrasting this to prior versions of the program and the key differences about how this is going to work now versus how you pursued direct mail in the past.
Jan Singer:
Well, again, I think in the past there was a lot of past that's catalog direct mail and different kinds of direct mail. But essentially, what I can talk about go forward is the high fidelity and emotional engagement and the segmentation. That's what's the difference is.
Oliver Chen:
Okay, and just to follow up on panties. On the panty frontier, are you feeling like you're very familiar with what needs to be done and it's temporary and it's a quick fix? I just wanted a characterization.
Jan Singer:
Yes, absolutely. We've been deep into this since I've arrived. We've dissected the business. I think we have a very good architecture go forward. You're starting to see some of the results of that in the [ 5-4 ] business. Yes, we know the 3 books of business are all important, and we have a speed model against the most important side of that. So yes, super clear, very confident going into holiday and go forward in '18.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Congrats on the progress so far in constructed bras and the positive comps there. It's great to see double-digit growth in some of your key bra styles. Putting that into context, I guess, I've got 3 questions for Jan. In thinking about the negative low single-digits for lingerie overall, is it just the unconstructed bralettes at this point that are an offset? Or are there other items as well? When do you anniversary the heavy investments made in the bralette category? And what does your flat to low single-digit comp guidance for the fourth quarter assume about lingerie performance overall?
Jan Singer:
Yes, I mean, thank you, Roxanne for the question. Thank you also for the support on the progress. It is about the balance of the portfolio. And when you build great bras, again, with benefits and emotional content, those take time and we have to fill that pipeline. I think the pipeline is now full. And so you'll start to see those roll more often. As those roll and she votes yes on those, it helps us rightsize the portfolio. Again, also going with choices of push-ups, lightly lined and unlined in the right balance is important. And we see that kind of rightsizing itself as we roll through this rest of this year into '18. And we think that you'll see the consumer roll with that.
Amie Preston:
Your last question comes from the line of Kara Szafraniec with Northcoast Research.
Kara Kavanaugh:
I had a question on the beauty promotion. I know in the script you guys called out a lower beauty promotional environment this quarter. Just wondering if you could give us some color on what drove that decision and should we continue to see a lower promotional environment in beauty going forward?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kara. We'll go to Greg.
Greg Unis:
Yes, if you think about where we were a year ago with product and where we are today with product, that's really the driving force for this. You saw the product at the investor walk-through, I think it was evident. We're being much more thoughtful and pointed on how we encourage our customer to shop with us and using less sort of overarching blunt instruments and more pointed brand-accretive promotions to drive the business. And we see that as our path forward.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Greg. Thanks, Kara. And thanks, everyone, for joining us today. We hope you all have a happy Thanksgiving, and thank you for your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Dorothy, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2017 Earnings Conference Call. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, and good morning, everyone. Welcome to L Brands' second quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, July 29, 2017. As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings.
Our second quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, CEO of International, are all joining us today. Additionally, we have the Victoria's Secret brand leaders joining us for the first time on the call today:
Denise Landman, CEO of PINK, who is joining us from another location; Jan Singer, CEO of Lingerie; and Greg Unis, CEO of Beauty.
As a reminder, all results that we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the 2016 special items outlined in our press release. Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Second quarter earnings per share decreased 31% to $0.48 per share, exceeding our initial guidance of $0.40 to $0.45. The earnings upside was delivered through expense control and nonoperating income gains. The comp decline of 8% was below our initial forecast for a mid-single-digit decline.
Looking forward to the remainder of 2017, we expect continued solid performance at PINK and Bath & Body Works and continued improvement versus our first half results at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and Beauty. Given our below expectation second quarter sales result, our comp forecast for the third quarter is a more conservative low single-digit decline versus our previous view of up low single digits. We have strong brands that lead their categories with post connections to our customers. While store traffic, particularly at Victoria's Secret, has been challenging, we believe a large part of the decline is related to the exit of Swim and a pullback in promotional activity versus last year. Our online businesses continued to be strong with 11% growth in go-forward categories at Victoria's Secret and 16% growth at Bath & Body Works. Our stores have high sales productivity and 99% of our stores are cash flow positive. We have confidence in our upcoming product launches, and we will continue to leverage our speed and agility capabilities to read, react and fix. We will also continue to manage inventory, expenses and capital spending with discipline. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Denise.
Denise Landman:
Good morning. My name is Denise Landman, I'm the CEO of PINK, and I've had the privilege of leading this brand since 2002. This morning, I have some brief comments regarding our recent performance.
Building off of a successful spring '17, led by bra and panty performance, the PINK brand management is currently focused on delivering a world-class experience, both online and in stores, for all of our back-to-campus shoppers. Back to campus, one of PINK's perennial milestones as a brand, really exists for multiple reasons. Number one, it's an opportunity to build an on-trend wardrobe of intimates, lounge and accessories for collegiate girls across America. It's a critical brand engagement opportunity, fortifying our customer's affinity for the brand. We leverage our agility and read and react, which is a core competency of PINK, enabling us to assess based on current performance those opportunities that are scalable and mitigate any risk. This is of particular importance as we look forward to the holiday season. I would assert that we remain enthusiastic about the brand's relevancy and its forward performance potential. Those are my comments this morning. And I'd like to turn it over to Jan Singer, CEO of Victoria's Secret Lingerie.
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Denise. Hi. It's Jan Singer, CEO of Victoria's Secret. It's really great to be on the call today. Coming into L Brands and to Victoria's Secret with 15 years in beauty, over 10 years in sports and most recently in intimates, I'm really excited to bring Victoria's Secret Lingerie, my passion for the consumer and the customers that we have, the insights that they bring, understanding of innovative, aspirational product creation and their really close understanding of supply chain and agility. In addition to that, brand programs that are authentic and engaging and will continue to build loyalty and conversion for our existing and new customers into the business.
The vision going forward is that there are many ways to run this offense, and I am on the offense to mine for long-term sustainable growth with 4 clear filters. Number one and always first is knowing her. Putting the consumer at the center, deeply knowing her today, what she expects from products and experiences that speak sexy to her, not just to him. Number two, solving her sexy, which means really strengthening the core of our business with bras that are our best at in design, innovation, fit and finishing. Bras with the benefits and key adjacent categories that also bring fashion and fantasy for her are the focus. Thirdly, serving her, where she wants to shop, when she wants to shop in an elevating, engaging, brand-accretive way, all powered by building a high-performing team and culture of diversity and inclusion. That culture is what breeds innovation. Innovation is what helps us build the best at bras and when we do, we get paid for that work. My focus right now and for this past year has been on the deep consumer connection, literally beginning the experience with working in stores and being in the market every week since day 1. The consumer connection we have with millions of women is a competitive advantage every day. From that, we build product in the most excellent, innovative form, resetting how we, as a team, optimize our merch, design, planning, supply chain teams for speed, relevance and innovation is a new way of working and one that I'm excited to bring and lead the team on. And with the team, we are in -- on the offense of building world-class high-performing talent. We have a balance of undeniable internal experience from L Brands and a balance of new team members that bring a lens of innovative thinking to the mix. That chemistry and competency is job one in building a high-performing team. This quarter, it begins with bras. The #1 job was balancing the assortment, making sure that we have choices of sexy for her. We have a cornerstone in the business of the push-up bra, and we went to the bralette business and now we're finding a lot of sexy in the middle. Balancing that assortment and bringing sexy solutions as well as fantasy and fashion in constructed bras is the way to go for us going forward. We're also resetting the panty architecture for the mix business, when she just want cheap and cheerful, fast fashion as well as disruptive single-ticket pinnacle product. In addition to the time this quarter, we are obsessing holiday. Holiday is an everyday conversation for us, and we plan on coming into the quarter with holiday plans dialed. Transitioning the team has been our focus this quarter and also, learning from last Retail 101 so that we can write the future together. I'm most excited to see the deep, deep consumer engagement that we have as a team, given the access to the customers. I'm excited to see the reset and return of the right level of loyalty. We have an incredibly loyal customer today, and building new loyals is a mission for us and reactivating our existing customers has also been a focus. I'm excited for the future ahead, and it's a pleasure and an honor to be at the brand at this time. I'm now going to turn it over to Greg Unis.
Greg Unis:
Good morning, everyone. I'm glad to be here with you this morning. It's been a little over a year since I joined Victoria's Secret, and I'd like to begin this morning with sharing a few thoughts about what we've been focused on in Beauty.
So last fall, we began a journey to create a clear point of view for our brand and for our customer, most importantly, about what we stand for as a beauty business. We narrowed our assortment offering by 40%, and we saw significant increase in our productivity. That decision allowed us to focus on fewer, more powerful launches within our prestige fragrance business and to create fashion and newness in categories where we can leverage our speed model through the Beauty Park. So moving on to Spring 2017. We were focused on laying the foundation for healthier businesses across all product lines. Within Q2, by focusing the assortment, we made big bigger and best-selling fragrances are up year-over-year in both stores and digital. We layered in fashion and newness in our mist collection, lip and accessories businesses, which the customer is responding to. We reduced lead times and continued to get faster. Overall, I'm confident we are headed in the right direction with positive sequential growth. So looking forward to fall, to this coming fall, we will continue all key strategies, continue to lay the foundation of a healthy business to set up for growth in the future. We will build upon what's working, making big bigger, leveraging our speed model to infuse fashion and newness and testing and learning new ideas. Thank you for joining this morning. I will now hand it over to Nick Coe to share his opening thoughts.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Greg, and good morning. I'd like to just add really just a couple of words of color to go with the black and white script that we sent out, where we -- you can see we continue to grow the business and the operating income on top of a pretty solid last year.
So I'd like to start by stating the obvious, and that's -- it really goes without saying, our most valuable assets is our brand. And our focus in assets in the last 6 months have been a critical part of us of moving the business forward. So what's really not visible in the script, so the major investments we've made in 2 really critical areas to help move both the top line and the bottom line, and we've been able to do that at the same time as growing the business. So during the last 6 months, the last couple of quarters, we've significantly increased the amount of newness, new product categories and new product testing. And that's a pretty big change versus recent history. I'm really referring to newness that isn't just seasonal updates on new fragrance launches. It's significant new newness for the store. And this has been invaluable for us because it's provided us with some critical insights that will really help us define what's important to keep the brand relevant and remain category dominant. Secondly, we've continued our disciplined approach in investing in the fleet, making sure the stores are updated, making sure the stores are exciting and obviously, interesting for the customers shopping. And that investment will bring us to the end of the year to about 420 stores, and the investment should continue as we go forward. And as you know, we talk a lot about the importance of the customer experience, the store experience and how frankly that obviously translates into sales. And I really both of these 2 initiatives contributes significantly to us building the health of the brand, which, once again, is our most valuable asset and really sets us up for success. So in summary, I think it's important to note, we've pushed hard on these 2 initiatives, and we've done it in a manner that has allowed us to drive top line and bottom line at the same time. And with that, I'll hand it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everyone. In the international business, we experienced similar overall trends as those that we saw in the first quarter, including softness in Beauty, difficult market conditions in the Middle East, some pressure in the U.K. market, and of course, we continue to make investments in China.
We did see some improvements in our Victoria's Secret franchise and travel retail businesses as well as continued strength in the Bath & Body Works International business. We continue to be pleased with the first 2 full assortment of Victoria's Secret stores in Mainland China, and we successfully transitioned to the Tmall domestic digital platform with in-country fulfillment back in July. We continue to be very bullish about our growth opportunities in China and around the world. And 2017 will be an exciting year for us as we continue to establish our business in China and build on our footprint in other geographies globally. Amie?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. So that concludes our prepared comments this morning. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions that you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with FBR Capital Markets.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering if you can maybe just give some more color on the lowered guide for the year. It sounds like it's pretty much all traffic related and just lower expectation for sales in the back half. But then also, it sounds like you feel that the Swim exit did impact traffic in second quarter. So maybe just your thoughts on how you see traffic playing out in the back half. And then also, on the merch margin front, do you expect it to improve in third quarter from second quarter?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Susan. So it's Stuart. In terms of the guidance, as outlined, we just reduced our assumptions around sales versus what we'd forecasted earlier in the year, so that is the driver. And with that said, we're -- this team is going to work very hard to maximize our opportunities this fall. As you know, we try to run the business conservatively as it relates to the management of inventory expenses, capital spending. And so we try to be thoughtful about our sales assumption in managing those things. And that same conservative mindset plays through to our guidance. We did beat the Q1 guidance that we put out and we're on the Q2 guidance as well. But the takedown, if you will, is sales related. With respect to your question or further perspective on traffic, at the end of the day, traffic is within our control. And we believe, based on brand and product and experiences in stores and online, that we have the opportunity to impact traffic, and we do when we're performing at our best. And so we'll be focused on getting the best result in the back half. But in terms of the takedown, it is sales driven fundamentally. Thanks.
Susan Anderson:
And just on the merch margin front, do you expect it to sequentially improve from second quarter to third quarter? Or do you feel like you'll have to promote more to drive the traffic?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
We had some merchandise margin rate improvement in Q2, as we reported, and we would expect to have some improvement in Q3 and Q4 as well.
Operator:
Your next question comes from line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, and I'm not sure if anyone at Victoria's Secret wants to address this as well. But traffic, obviously, seems to be the #1 kind of key ingredient that's missing to drive the go-forward business. You mentioned that you're increasing marketing selectively in the third quarter. I'm wondering if you can talk about the goal of driving traffic is your new targeted direct mail, pointing you in the right direction. And are there any other levers that you've got at your disposal to try to drive traffic as we go through the back half of this year and into 2018?
Jan Singer:
Kimberly, it's Jan Singer. Thanks for the question. I think that when we use the marketing strategically in a brand-accretive way, we have the opportunity to engage existing customers and make her aware of the new product that's coming. In addition, we have the opportunity to engage new customers that we believe would really have a great experience with the brand. So the idea is to make sure that what we're doing is brand accretive, inspiring and drives traffic and conversion. So yes, that's a strategy for us.
Denise Landman:
And then I would add from a PINK perspective that we enter into a season with a very holistic point of view regarding how we're going to reach out, inform and touch the customer through all relevant digital platforms in addition to pieces that we might mail. I think above and beyond just trend-right product in the moment, our event strategy, our movable bus tour, which visits college campuses, continues to drive interest in the brand and traffic into the store.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Denise. Kimberly, did that do it for you?
Kimberly Greenberger:
I'm just wondering what kind of response you're seeing to the targeted direct mail efforts? Is it helping -- or initially, in those test markets, is it helping to drive traffic to the stores?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Short answer is yes. We're getting good results. We've learned a lot, Kimberly, as we've talked about over the last 6 to 12 months, and we're seeing pretty strong response to the direct mail activity that we've been pursuing. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Is there any more detail you can give in the comp breakdown between Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works embedded in your third quarter and fourth quarter guidance? So just how you think about each from a transaction versus ticket perspective that's built into the second half.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul. So we'll go to Stuart for that question.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Paul. As you know, we don't get too granular about guidance by segment because there's variability even at the company level and obviously, further variability as you break it down into parts. With that said, as we think about it and trying to be somewhat responsive to your question, we would expect stronger results in the businesses that have had stronger recent trends. So that might be an extremely obvious point. But we would expect a continuation and further improvement in all of our businesses. But in terms of absolute traffic and comp results, the businesses are in different places, as described. We're expecting improvement through the fall season across the Victoria's businesses and a continued strong performance at Bath & Body Works. So that'd really be the color. But in terms of getting details about traffic for PINK versus Beauty and all that, it just gets so granular. I'm not sure that it's helpful. We plan the business conservatively. We're optimistic about the fall. Bath & Body Works had a strong spring season. PINK had a strong spring season. And Lingerie and Beauty made a lot of progress as well, and we believe we've got improvement opportunity across the portfolio. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
We had a question related to panty sales below expectation. Could you clarify what happened here? Was it an interplay with some of the bra launch performance there? And on that topic of targeted direct mailing and returning to that, what was your framework for thinking about that decision? And what will be different about the program in terms of being brand appropriate in a brand accretive way this time versus in the past?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. So we'll go to Jan.
Jan Singer:
Thanks for the question. On panties, I think there's a few things in play. Number one is we moved from highly promotional free panty conversation into resetting the line and the architecture and making sure that we have content on a couple of different levels beginning. On the 5-for business, which is our entry price point, the content needs to be absolutely on point, which requires a fast fashion model. We fortunately have speed. So resetting that proposition and getting on our existing speed model is job one. Number two is we've had some success and we need to build on it in what we call the single ticket and the more elevated panties where we disrupt the marketplace. Our job is to push the edge and bring new sexy silhouettes to the market. And when we do, she comes in and she transacts. So we're resetting that opportunity. We think that's a part of the -- of, clearly, the growth for panty future. In addition, yes, there's attachment rate to bras as well. And as we bring new product and we bring the logical balance to that business, we'll see that traction in panties. So I'm very confident in the architecture go forward. I'm confident in using the fast fashion model as well as the more elevated. And I think we'll see a healthier panty business with more loyals going forward. In terms of the mailing, brand accretive offers mean that we're offering an opportunity to trial in a way that we are proud of and we continue to get repeat purchasing at. And we offer direct connection with the customer in a segmented way that shows to her that we know her and show her new products that are for her. When we do that, it feels personal, and it is, and she comes in and checks out the business. And I think that's what we're trying to build on when we say brand-accretive product marketing.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Lindsay Drucker Mann with Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
Jan, I was just hoping to get some clarification on the panty price architecture. So are you saying that you'll be taking opening price point for panties lower? And if that's the case, how are you thinking about overall AUR for panties going forward? What kind of impact that might have on the business? Would you expect for the panty category to flatten out in coming quarters? Or is this a category that's likely to be a drag as this transition takes shape?
Jan Singer:
No, let me just clarify. Thanks for the question. It -- we did not talk about lowering price point on panties at all. In fact, we think there's more opportunity in the upward motion than the down. The 5-for business is the 5-for business, and we've been aggressive about making sure that we're on a price value. The opportunity I'm talking about is making sure that our team is as fast as possible on content and that the conversation we're having with the customer through the design of that panty is current. We're doing a lot of things to reset, make sure we put more value in those panties but not take price down. In addition, what I -- sorry. Yes, go ahead.
Lindsay Mann:
Okay. I guess, I was going to ask, will you be changing -- to the degree that panties were often offered as a promotional lever, free panties or panties discounted, do you expect to be further discounting promotional activity on panties, whether standalone or as part of a broader lingerie package promo? And will you be doing anything on your kind of entry price point panties to change the average unit cost? Or should we be expecting overall merchandise margin in panties to be flat or maybe even up?
Jan Singer:
I think that when we talk about panties and promotions, it's a balance and we have to be selective. Do I want new customers to know what we have? Yes. Is there a brand-accretive way to do that without giving away panties to everybody that walks in the store? I do believe so. So for me, panties are our business. They're not just a marketing tool. And we'll be continuing to build that business and getting paid for that work. And we'll balance that with trial when we think that we can get a conversion from that conversation.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell with Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Just a follow-up on the conversation we're already having. Can you be a bit more specific on thoughts around units versus AUR in lingerie in the third and the fourth quarter and what the drivers are of that growth given what the comparisons are from a year ago? And then also, just a bit more detail on Bath & Body Works. Obviously, a good overall quarter, but certainly a slowdown at the end of the period. Just dig a little bit deeper into what exactly what happened in July and what we should expect as we move into August in the second half of the year.
Jan Singer:
It's Jan Singer. So I would say, on your first question, as we go to balance out the assortment, especially on bras, from a bralette predominant conversation, we expect to see AURs go up, of course, because constructed bras are bras with benefits and we get paid for that work. So in terms of that AUR conversation, that's our intention.
Amie Preston:
Great. And we'll go over to Nick for the Bath & Body Works question.
Nicholas Coe:
I think July for us was really about a transitional month. I talked earlier on a lot about the amount of change, the amount of product testing that we've put in, the amount of differentiated assortment. I mean, July is pretty transitional anyway as we exit sales and start thinking about being in the fall season. So I really look at that slower slowdown in performance pretty much through the lens of it was transitional and it was about a lot of changes and some very interesting changes under the covers in terms of mix, assortments, et cetera. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick with Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, my question, first, for Jan. I guess, this T-Shirt Bra launch last month was your first big launch, I think, since you've been at the company. So curious about any learnings you had there. And as we look into the fall season, how should we be thinking about any big launches at any timing for VS launches versus last year? And then maybe Stuart can talk about the inventory guidance at the end of this quarter. Is that a bullish viewpoint about the holiday season? Or is that more about timing versus last year's inventory position?
Amie Preston:
Okay. So let's start with Jan, T-Shirt Bra.
Jan Singer:
All right. Thank you for the question and the opportunity to talk about that for a bit. Yes, we were able to -- actually, a couple of interesting things I'll share. We actually reduced the assortment in that collection by 30% and made plan in comp last year's 2 different collections with the one assortment, which the assortment was a mix of a few bras, the refresh and 3 new bras. And we saw our product deliver plan -- really on plan. The most exciting thing about that product was that we brought new customers into the mix and new customers for us in an exciting, fresh way that the silhouettes that are new, not necessarily the existing. So I was really pleased with the execution of that launch, and I was pleased with the results. And more importantly, the engagement with the customer was exciting. In addition to that, the engagement on social media with the customer about the bra itself was exciting. So I think that was a leading indicator that when we build the business that -- in a way that connects with her and fits and feels good, she will come. So it's the beginning of the beginning.
Amie Preston:
Great. And Stuart, on inventory?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Brian. With respect to inventory, you've been following us for a long time, you know what our commitment is, which is to grow inventory in line with sales. We've done that very consistently for a long period of time. There's nothing that's changed about that point of view. With that said, we want to make sure that we're in stock and appropriately positioned to have a good fall. In terms of the guidance about the third quarter, I would describe it as consistent with that thinking. It is up a little bit but not significantly, and there's a little bit of timing involved. But our commitment to manage inventory in line with sales was as strong as ever. And some of this is what we're lapping and cycling. But again, it's a pretty conservative position. We ended the spring season very clean. We've got a lot of agility, which is great. And we'll manage inventory in line with the sales trend. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva with Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
Question on the August guide. Should we still expect comps to be down low to mid-single digits this month? And as we think about 3Q guide for flat to down low singles, maybe talk about which month do you expect to see the biggest improvement to reach that level. And then, secondly, just priorities for cash. I think you bought back a bit more stock during the quarter. Maybe talk about opportunity for bigger buyback, especially given the stock at these levels.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Anna, it's Stuart. On the August comp guidance, when we began the month, we said down low to mid. We don't have further comment on that today. The back-to-school period for PINK is an important one. They had a good back-to-school result. But we're not commenting beyond that for August. We report every month, as you know, but no significant update to that. With respect to cash and -- sorry, sequentially, through the quarter, the biggest change through the quarter will be, as we've described, the diminishing effect of the non-go-forward exit. And so sequentially, that will become less and less as we go through the fall season, including by month in the third quarter. So that's the additional color we'd provide on the comp. With respect to cash, as you know, we are -- we have a very strong record and commitment to returning excess cash to shareholders, and we had spoken a lot about that. You're familiar with it. We are executing under our share repurchase authorization. We're also paying a very healthy regular dividend, as you're aware, right now, given recent earnings results at a very high payout ratio and a very attractive yield to shareholders. But we remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders using regular dividends through repurchase programs and from time to time, with special dividends. We consult with our board about that, as you would expect. And we'll continue to execute against our authorized programs. So that's kind of where we are on that. Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I thought I'd try to get Martin involved. I guess, for the back half of the year, I think you guys commented that comps ex China were down in Q2. What's kind of baked into the back half assumptions in the top line for the international business? And then maybe any update on the operating loss you expect this year from China, given all the investments and how you expect that to scale maybe as you move into next year.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Ike. We'll obviously go to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Yes. Thanks, Ike. Thanks for bringing me in. I appreciate it. So yes, the driver of negative comp really in the international business is really all coming out of the U.K. where we're seeing a couple of things happening. One is the same patterns of business that we see in North America, particularly around the exit of Swim and Apparel and also, the lower AUR in bras. That said, we have seen significantly, I mean really significantly higher unit sales of bras in the U.K. So we are winning share of drawer, which is obviously a positive. I think the other thing in the U.K. that we're seeing is just generally somewhat of a malaise, and most retailers are reporting that traffic is down, not helped by the terrible incidents around tourism and so on and so forth. So that's really the big story in Victoria's Secret International. There is some softness in Beauty, but nothing that I would see as being particularly significant. And as we head into Q3 and Q4, we certainly expect to get back into positive comp territory. So feeling optimistic about that. The area where we have seen positive comps in Victoria is in China. And I think what you should expect to see is that we grow stores in the third and fourth quarter. We have 2 full assortment stores open now. We have 4 more in production. Those are a good and a bad thing, in that we have preopening costs associated with them, which means we have to live with more loss. But of course, getting them open gets us to trade. We then have 10 to 12 more full assortment stores coming in 2018. In terms of how the loss will be impacted, Q3 and Q4, you should expect to see somewhat of an increase in losses year-over-year in both of those quarters. But the scale of that increase will moderate and will moderate significantly as we get into Q1 '18.
Operator:
Your next question comes from line of Omar Saad with Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
I wanted to ask a follow-up to -- I think it was a comment that Jan made about reactivating some of the Victoria's Secret customers. Maybe you could kind of talk through what you think some of the reasons are that maybe drove a deactivation, if you will, and what the strategies are -- what caused the deactivation of some of those customers relative to the brand and what the strategies are to engage some of those lost customers.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar. Jan?
Jan Singer:
Yes. So I think that I wasn't here more than a year ago, but my understanding getting here was that we had a dramatic shift in our marketing programs, and we needed to do that for a very good reason, so we could reset to get to the right customers at the right level. So perhaps that pause had a conversation with our engagement. No matter where we are now is really understanding who's in our file and how to reach her best. So we have had almost as much as 40% engagement with customers that we haven't talked to in quite some time. And that's a very positive reconnection for us and an important one to make.
Omar Saad:
Got it. So it's really digital engagement. That's how you're speaking to those customers in leveraging the, I guess, data from your loyalty program?
Jan Singer:
That's correct.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
This is for Jan. Jan, as you think of the progress of the new bra launches, how is it developing in your mind and where do you see the penetration of the lower AUR bralettes and sports bras going to or stabilizing at? And then as you think of the new product, store environment, do you see that at all changing in terms of either look or brand?
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Dana, for the question. I think I'll take it a little bit high and then go detailed for you where I can. Theoretically, having a push-up bra constructed business is a really important part of the mix. Giving her choices of sexy with bralettes was a good do. Finding the balance between those businesses with the constructed bras that provide options of silhouette for her is an important, important part of the future. So I think it's important to say that bralettes and unconstructed bras have a place in the assortment, but they trend up and down. And so we're in the business of building bras. And I think that you and I probably know, if you've worn a bralette for more than a day, trying to wear them from the rest of your life is probably not your best option. So we're in the business of building bras at that have a lot of make and benefit in them, and we're in the fashion business. So when bralettes trend and they're important, we will have them in the mix, as we do right now. So I think it's about choices and making sure that we have balance in there. And we -- when we start to roll launches forward, like we did with T-Shirt, we see her responding and really excited and the launch is going forward is the same. So it's a balance. In terms of the stores, what I'm really passionate about is the balance of our selling, being able to be where she wants to shop. So we have a healthy digital business. And bra fitting happens in person. And as a person who spent 3 months in the store, 6 days a week for over 10 hours a day and became certified as a bra fit specialist for Victoria's Secret, we offer a very life-changing experience in that fitting room, and I'm very serious about that. It can only happen in person. It's a really important part of our experience. And when you have a retail store that offers an environment with an experience that's elevating, aspirational, brand right, she comes in. So I think when we have a product like bras and we have a place like our stores and we have specialists like our associates, we have a reason to drive engagement in that space.
Operator:
Your next question comes from of the line of Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
On the margin front, can you just help quantify the level of gross margin decrease and SG&A increase in the third quarter? Help us to think about some of the puts and takes for the fourth quarter. And then just larger picture, as we move to next year, what revenue growth do you need to leverage SG&A? And is it reasonable to think about SG&A expense leverage next year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So it's Stuart. I'll take the second part of that question first. As a general matter, low to mid-single comp, which gets to a mid-single revenue growth, typically will allow us to have slight leverage in our business in a normal period of time, which -- implicit in your question. You recognized '16 and '17 haven't been normal given the volume declines related to the category exits in the China investments that you're familiar with. So 3% to 5% comp, mid-single revenue gets to slight leverage would be how we think about it. With respect to the back half of the year, in comparison to the first half of the year, we are making significant investments in real estate. We've moderated those, as you know, in our updated script or our commentary in the script. We took our CapEx guide down $50 million additional recently. So at $800 million versus $850 million. But with that said, we're making, we think, very important and as Nick commented on, successful investments, particularly in Bath & Body Works and otherwise in real estate. And so it's driving pressure in the occupancy line. What's different about the back half versus the first half is we're going to have volume increases, dollar volume increases in the back half of the year versus the declines in the first half. And so on a dollar basis, we'll have some variable expenses that run with that. So on a dollar increase, there'll be more in the back half than there was in the first half driven by volume and again, the percent growth in expenses, including some pressure related to the CapEx and the occupancy. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Adrienne Yih with Wolfe Research.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
My question is for Jan. I want to know how many new bra launches do you have kind of scheduled for the next, for the back half of this year versus last year? And then the penetration of bralettes in the third quarter, or actually, the back half this year versus last year and whether you're seeing the AUR lift? And then, Stuart, for you, can you just talk about rent reduction opportunities? What percent of your leases come up for action in the next 3 years and then your longer-term view of the number of stores you should have at each brand?
Jan Singer:
Thanks, Adrienne. It's Jan. So in terms of launches, I mean, the edict, I think, if you're in this business, is constant newness. So we will continue to flow constant newness faster than most due to our speed model. So there's a difference between newness in launches, and I recognize that. We will have the appropriate amount of launches that bring bras that have the right build in them. And when you cadence those correctly, I think that we can create spikes that matter for the business. In terms of the mix, it's less than 5% of bralettes as we go forward. Again, I think anybody can make a bralette and that was a moment that will come and go and it will come again. But for us, we make constructed bras best. And when we do, even in our bralette business, bralettes that have more construction in them, we get paid for that work.
Amie Preston:
Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Adrienne, with respect to the real estate, stores, rent reductions, our thinking has been pretty consistent. Now we review the facts and the data on a very regular basis and take appropriate action and as I mentioned before, reducing our plans in 2017 significantly a couple of times. But to reiterate our philosophy on it and to be very clear about it, including the example that Jan spoke about a minute ago in terms of that in-store experience in bra fitting, the store part of our business is critical, whether it's fragrance at Bath & Body Works or bra fittings at Victoria's Secret Lingerie or Victoria's Secret PINK or fragrance at Victoria's Secret Beauty. The in-store experience is a critical part of our brands, our customer experience, et cetera, just inherent in the categories of business that we're in. Secondly, as you know, our sales productivity, our financial results, our metrics related to our store fleet are very, very strong on the selling foot basis with productivity over $800 a foot in total and continuing at 99% of our stores being cash flow positive. An additional point I would make is that we are opening and closing stores literally every year. And so based on performance and consumer experience, we very actively manage our real estate fleet. With respect to the number of stores that we should have for the business, at the end of the day, that will be performance based. Again, a store-based experience, we believe, is foundational to our major brands and it'll be performance based to go. And we see the opportunity for some additional square footage in North America and obviously, significant expansion internationally. We have a lot of flexibility in the CapEx, and we have a lot of flexibility with respect to our situation in the lower tier malls with co-tenancy and named tenant provisions in our leases and a meaningful number of stores with very short lease term or even month-to-month lease provisions that contribute to our ability to close them when it makes sense. So with respect -- lastly, with respect to rent reductions, to be frank, it's not a key part of our real estate strategy. You know what they say about real estate, it is about location, location, location. And the biggest priority or the highest priority that we have with respect to our relationship with our developer partners is to get terrific locations that provide great experiences for customers, a lot of footfall, a lot of sales productivity, a lot of revenue, a lot of profit. And so that's our dominant focus with the major developers. With that said, we've got a very experienced real estate team and we're not looking to overpay, and we don't believe that we do. But it's not our key real estate strategy to figure out how to get rent reductions. Our key real estate strategy is to ensure that we're in the right location with compelling store designs that set us up well currently and for the future. So hopefully, that answers your question.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Just a follow-up to Adrianne's question for Jan. What do you think is going to be the bigger game changer, new bra launches or the opportunity to improve existing categories? And then I'm just wondering, obviously, there are many sub-brands within the structured bra business. I'm just wondering, what percentage of the assortment have you been able to reposition for fall? What do you think you're going to be able to touch for holiday? And then just longer term, how you think about what percent of the assortment needs to evolve?
Jan Singer:
Okay. Thanks, Roxanne, for the question. In terms of category, it's a great question. Clearly, we're going to be strong at the core with bras and panties, our best at -- and win that categories. But it's not lost on us, the key adjacent categories matter that we're in. The sleep business and the sexy lingerie business are categories that have higher velocity at fashion and churn. I think right now, as you can see in trend, lingerie worn on the street, pajamas as apparel is a thing, a real thing. And we are taking our fair share of that business. It's a fast fashion model, and we're optimizing our speed to get there, brings her back to the store more often than we have at our core, which then gets our core stronger. So I think we have to be really focused on the core and cognizant of the appropriate adjacent categories and how to grow them. In terms of the changes, I look at it from the beginning. When you walk in the door, it's all yours, team player, all-in day 1. So when -- in the conversation of the product that I personally am affecting, as much as I can, as fast as I can, as ready as they are. So there's percentage of change that you're feeling right now that I've clearly been focused on from upstream innovation to product creation and assortment. And you'll feel more as the holiday season comes and then again, into '18, it's just a build. But I think starting fall forward, it begins.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Marni Shapiro with Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
I'm curious, Les has talked about, when things were trending downward in the bra business, that the sizes were going up and this was an indication that the customer was getting older. And as you brought bralettes back in, that starts to reverse. So I'm curious of a couple of things. Are you still seeing that trend? Are you getting your younger customer back in? And then importantly, when she's coming in, you've talked a lot about AUR and the bralettes and the active business. Is she only buying the bralettes? Is she more price sensitive than she used to be? Or is she buying around the store? And is there any pushback on the pricing of your structured bras?
Jan Singer:
Thank you, Marni, for the question. I think we're seeing -- I know we're seeing our new customers come in, and the average age of that customer, in both our existing business, like a BBV Demi and the new businesses of T-Shirt, the customer, we have the demographics of who she is and she is younger. That's very exciting for us because everybody wants to fill the file with the new as well as engage our important existing high-value customers. So it's not -- a bra is not a barrier of entry for her. When the bra fits and it feels like it's changing her expectation of what it should do in a good way, she's coming in. And I was more impressed with that when I worked in the fitting room personally. And I will tell you, for instance, the BBV Demi, which is our tried and tested and most famous bra, she is opting into. So that's exciting. I don't see not having a high penetration of bralettes equaling not having a new customer, quite the opposite.
Marni Shapiro:
And then the pricing question?
Jan Singer:
In terms of, Marni, one more time?
Marni Shapiro:
Is there a barrier on price or if it fits, she doesn't care what it costs?
Jan Singer:
No, it -- there is no barrier for price. And again, what's interesting is the bra itself has a price, but then what she builds her basket to is always much higher. When you have a bra and we know this, that fits and helps you feel confident, sexy, whatever your goal is, there is really no barrier to price on that, especially one that will work with your body, feel comfortable. I think we've seen time and again, especially from the younger customer. It doesn't seem to be a barrier at all on our side of the business in terms of constructed bras, no.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Jan, I was just wondering, given some of the softness in panties and sleepwear and the rebuild on bras, if you expected the lingerie comp to match that of the brand, of the Victoria's Secret brand in the second half of the year or if we should expect that to continue to trail as these adjustments are made. And Nick, I was wondering if you could talk about the newness level in August, and if you felt that you had brought in enough innovation in the month so that we'd see a change from the July trend.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. We're going to go to Nick first.
Nicholas Coe:
I think you're really going to start to see the newness around, more specifically as we get into September, October, November. So a lot of the learnings that took place during the first half of the year has started to impact the assortment more aggressively as you get later on into the year. So I'm looking forward to September. There's an awful lot of change in newness coming in from there that builds all the way into holiday so that we're sitting in the peak period of the year with probably the most amount of change.
Amie Preston:
And Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Janet, if I understood your question right, you're asking about the relative level of sales growth for lingerie, PINK and Beauty, if I understand the question completely.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Actually not. The lingerie business missed comp, underperformed. I think the plan in the second quarter had -- and may have impacted your overall comp performance. So I'm wondering how we should think about the lingerie comp in the third and fourth quarter relative to the overall Victoria's Secret comp.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, we would -- we believe that with respect to the overall Victoria's Secret comp, we would expect that PINK would have the strongest result and that Beauty and Lingerie, in terms of absolute level of comp, would not be at the same level, but will improve through the fall season.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Okay. And can you talk about performance at Sport, Stuart, how that's going?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I think Jan can speak to it, can provide a perspective on it. Thanks, Janet.
Jan Singer:
Sure. Janet, yes, happy to talk about it. I think in general, we're very excited about the sport business. You can see our trajectory over time has been a growth driver, and it is a growth opportunity for the business. At the end of the day, the center of the business is around the sport bra. And we know, no sport bra, no sport for her. So that's an important part of our business. And again, we're excited with new launches that are coming in that space. Our bottoms business has also been a rapid growth driver for us. The more that we come out with our core, core fashion and then really provocative sport, I like to say, when we're more girl than grrr, we win. So we have a unique position to be in this space relative to bras and bras and sport having to perform. And the second thing about really sport sexy is strong, and we're on the business of fashion and sexy and we tie those 2 things together. She's coming in. We're also seeing a high penetration of new customers to the business. In addition, I'm most excited about the repeat customer that's coming in as well. So we're building loyal. It's an exciting category.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Can you give us a margin outlook there on Sport?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Janet, it should be very healthy over time. So we would expect, in any major category of business that we have, and sports certainly is one today and we'll have substantial growth potential, but it will has a very healthy margin rate over time.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Simeon Siegel with Nomura Instinet.
Simeon Siegel:
Jan, just for perspective, could you quantify how much the aggregate bra AUR is down versus last year? And then just to be clear, your expectation for the moderating lower AUR bra penetration, is that a function of lapping the increased penetration from last year? Or are you expecting Sport and bralette units to decline in the back half? And then, Greg, I know it's quiet on your end this morning, but if you're still there, nice results at Beauty. Could you help quantify the top and bottom line benefits you'd expect Beauty to contribute to the consolidated back half results and then maybe the margin implications?
Amie Preston:
So Simeon, I'm going to take the first part of the question. We actually said in the script that bra -- lingerie bra units were up mid-single digits and total lingerie bras were down high single. So I think based on that math, you can get back to the AUR result in the business. And with that, let's go to Greg for the Beauty question.
Greg Unis:
Yes. As I said earlier, we're seeing nice -- we saw in the second quarter nice sequential growth. And as we think forward to fall, similar to the way that Jan spoke about the evolution of the Lingerie business, in fall, we're really -- we're very excited about what's to come and have learned a lot over the last year and making nice impacts in the business there.
Amie Preston:
Simeon, did you have another question in there?
Simeon Siegel:
Yes. Sorry, Amie. So what I meant in the first part was just thinking through the go forward. So the penetration, the moderating penetration, is that because you're lapping the increased penetration in the lower AUR bras? Or do you actually see the growth in constructed offsetting that?
Jan Singer:
It's both, actually. This is Jan. I mean, by nature of that not over assorting the line, something goes in, something comes out. So the mix is changing into constructive bras. By staying close to the customer, we see the demand for that. So yes, by nature, it's actually both things on purpose, right?
Operator:
Your final question comes from the line of John Morris with BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
Nick, if you can give us a little bit more color directionally on the improvement that you're seeing from the store renovations, if you can share any productivity metrics, that'd be great. What the store learning -- what the learnings are there from a traffic perspective, ticket perspective, et cetera. And then, Jan, I guess, if you can briefly -- I think this really would be from your perspective, I'd be curious to hear a little bit more about your take on the Victoria's Secret marketing. As you've gotten familiar with it now, thought given to any innovation in the positioning, including the fashion show, et cetera, but just, overall, the brand positioning and how you feel about it go forward, should we expect any changes? But your take on that?
Nicholas Coe:
A couple of thoughts on that. So as usual, we get a pretty wide range of performance from the new real estate. But in general, it continues to meet our expectations that allows us to continue to make those investments. So we see a pretty solid ROI, very consistent with what we've seen, frankly, over the past -- course of the past 3 years. So we continue to be pretty happy with that. I think the biggest thing is around customer-ship, John. So we see a high degree of new customers coming into the store because it's a better experience, it's a new experience. We see, obviously, overall traffic is up in those stores, which is a key driver to the success behind it. And I think at the end of the day, the real value in there is it's an opportunity to introduce the brand in its best format and its most exciting format and the opportunity to introduce the newest products in the best format. So we continue to -- in summary, I think we continue to be excited with the performance. The performance has been consistent, and we'll continue to invest in those stores over the course of the next couple of years until we find out otherwise.
Jan Singer:
John, it's Jan. Thanks for getting in under the wire. That's awesome. Number one, most of the time, as I mentioned earlier, but I want to make sure I'm really clear about it, is that the focus is deep customer connection and making great product, job one. So I've spent this year really up in the value chain, way up into innovation, product creation. Our supply chain, ensuring speed and agility as well as our merchandising assortment. So I'm deep into that space. And without that, I can't market anything. So I'm really excited about the time spent there. That said, we know the marketing space in total for the universe is changing, and it's about performance marketing and we are embracing that notion. We have the mission of attracting, engaging and converting new customer as well as engaging our existing. Our new CMO will be joining the brand in September, this fall on boarding. So that is important for the VSL business. And you mentioned the show, though I can't say too much about it, what I will say is Greg and I are deeply connected into this event to make sure that it actually ticks and ties to the business, and we're excited about what that means for our activity and traffic and conversion for holiday.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John. That concludes our call today. Thanks, all, for joining us and for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
Thank you. Ladies and gentlemen, that concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Lisa, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2017 Earnings Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' first quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, April 29, 2017. As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our earnings release, additional commentary and our earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter earning results were slightly ahead of our beginning-of-quarter guidance. We reported earnings per share of $0.33 compared to our guidance of between $0.20 and $0.25. $0.06 of upside was driven by the lower-than-forecasted tax rate.
After a particularly challenging February, which we believe was related in part to a delay in the timing of income tax refunds, we gained momentum through the remainder of the quarter. Looking forward to the remainder of the year, we have confidence in the growth opportunities for our business. Our brands are strong and lead their categories, and we have an experienced and aligned leadership team. We're continuing to invest in initiatives that will drive significant growth, including White Barn remodels at Bath & Body Works and investment in China. As you know, about a year ago, we made strategic changes at Victoria's Secret to streamline the business, focus on our core categories and accelerate growth. While these investments and strategic actions will continue to put pressure on results in 2017, we are confident that they are providing the platform for accelerated future growth. Beyond the short-term impacts to this year, we remain committed to our goals of growing annual operating income by 10% and an operating income rate in the high teens. We will continue to focus on the things that we can control and manage inventory, expenses and capital spending with financial discipline. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Stuart. Good morning. Just a few comments. We started -- I'd like to really start by highlighting that we finished the quarter with results that were much better than we started the quarter. Once we got past the challenges of February, we were able to get back into positive territory during March and April time frame. The reason I mentioned that is because I think it really proves the agility that we have in the business when things aren't right to be able to get back on track.
Our earnings were down 9% for the quarter, but I really want to point out that, that was pretty much driven by the expense deleverage associated with the increased occupancy cost as we continue to invest in our brand and make sure that the most important place for our brand is in the stores. And we've always want those to look good, and we've obviously demonstrated, we can get return on investment there. Moving on to the retail landscape. It remains highly dynamic, and certainly, traffic has not been kind to many during Q1. However, we did find ways to drive traffic, drive good traffic with our agility in the quarter resulting in AUR growth. The home fragrance business remained a key driver for us, but we also saw body care start to build momentum during the quarter. And I think that's a direct result of the investments that we've made into that business or made into that category. We continue to flex our muscles in speed and testing on a daily basis, and we've continued to learn an awful lot about the customer acceptance of both product and promotional ideas, which has given as good ideas and good momentum as we go into the second quarter. Q1 has been one of the most aggressive testing periods for us, really giving us insights into how do we think we ought to manage the business, how do we think we ought to manage the brand as we continue to move the brand forward. We're feeling good about the direction of our product assortments, but we will continue to leverage our read-and-react capabilities to meet customer expectations. And obviously, we'll continue to make sure we're leveraging our operational and our fiscal disciplines. With that, I'll turn it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everybody. In the international business, we experienced a continuation of some of the challenges from 2016 in the first quarter of the year, including softness in beauty; difficult market conditions in the Middle East and Turkey; some FX pressure; and, of course, our investment in China also continues to negatively impact us in the near term.
I'd also note that profitability in the U.K. was down in the first quarter, driven primarily by the exit of swim and apparel and, of course, additional pressure from the preopening cost in Dublin and some FX impacts as well. On a brighter note, the Bath & Body Works business did very well in the quarter, with positive comps and growth in operating income. And we opened our first 2 full assortment stores, Victoria's Secret stores in Mainland China in the first quarter to good response. We continue to be bullish about growth opportunities in China and around the world. And 2017 will be an exciting year for us as we continue to build on our footprint globally. Amie?
Amie Preston:
Yes. Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] And I'll turn it back over to Lisa.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez from Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Just curious, have there been any moves that were made on the Victoria's Secret side of the business that you're reconsidering in any way, either for the second half or F '18? And then I think you guys made a comment that you were looking to focus on the constructed bra business in the second half. Just curious if that meant in any way that you'd be pulling back from bralette and/or sport as a percent of mix.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Paul, it's Stuart. So in terms of the significant changes that we made at Victoria's Secret, are we considering reversing or stepping back from any of those changes? The short answer is no. We feel very good about the decisions that we made and that they are the right changes to drive focus and accelerated growth for the business. The second question was around constructed bras, sport bras, bralettes. It's not a de-emphasis, Paul, on bralettes or sport bras, but rather, I would just say, an increased flow of newness and compelling bra launches in the constructed bra space that we believe will improve the result in the constructed bra space, and get it back to the growth trajectory that we would expect. So it's not a, per se, de-emphasis on, again, bralettes and sport bras, but rather increased flow of compelling new ideas, particularly beginning in the July period that we expect will drive healthy growth in that part of the business. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, my question is on gross margin. It fell 330 basis points here in Q1. I'm wondering if you could break down the buying and occupancy deleverage piece of that from the merchandise margin. And then it sounds like gross margin is expected to be a bit better in the second quarter. How should we think about those 2 components within your guidance for Q2?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Kimberly. In terms of the gross margin decline, the bigger driver was the buying and occupancy deleverage. There was some decline in the merchandise margin rate as well. As we move forward, we believe that, based on the quality of our inventory, that we'll see an improved result in the merchandise margin rate trend in the second quarter. Inventories are in great shape. We did a lot of liquidation last year in semiannual sale at Victoria's. And we believe that we'll have a better rate outcome at Victoria's, including through contributions in the beauty side of that business. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell from Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Just big picture. Could you just talk about some of the learnings regarding the changes that you've made in your promotional strategy? What's working and what's not? And then more specifically, just could you speak to the expected go-forward category comps in lingerie? Obviously, down meaningfully here in the first quarter as you have a lower AUR offsetting what you all said was a mid-teens growth rate in total lingerie bra units. Help us understand how we should think about that as the year progresses as we lap and cycle some of the robust bralette growth in the second half last year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So in terms of learnings in promotional strategy, starting with the biggest change that we made in terms of communication and some related promotion, we continue to feel that the elimination of the catalog at Victoria's Secret was fundamentally an appropriate move for the business in the day and age that we're in. So that would be the first major changes that we made, and again, feel that, that was a strong move. Obviously, communicating with customers comes in various forms. And doing that digitally, electronically, through e-mail, through social media, all of those forms are important, and we're active in each of those channels. And then lastly, and it may be, at the heart of your question, is we made important changes in our direct mail programs beginning about this time a year ago. And the learning there was that -- what we had been doing was highly promotional offers and a standard offer that didn't have much variation to it in terms of dollars off bra and getting a free panty. And as we've moved through 2016 and into '17, we are contacting customers more than we were a few months ago through direct mail, but doing so in a brand appropriate way and with a range of offers that we believe are more compelling and more interesting and not as brand damaging. So I would say that reflects the learning there. So that's kind of where we are. In terms of growth in the major lingerie categories, I mean, our expectation would be that we grow any significant category of our business on a comp basis, mid-single or better in terms of sales growth with healthy margin. That's our overall thinking as we run these businesses that we have. And we would hope to begin achieving that in the major lingerie categories this fall.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen from Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
We -- our question is regarding your framework and thinking around the store base. All your stores are 4-wall profitable or the majority are. But I'm just curious about what's your assumption for when accelerations of closures happen at other competitors that are out of your control, department stores as well as specialty? And as you think about the U.S. store bases for both VS and Bath & Body Works and online, continues to grow, what are you thinking for your guideline overall? And how might that change based on the variables that you monitor as you try to prioritize the right investment across higher- versus lower-productivity stores?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So that's a big question, big subject you're asking about. So our first guideline is to ensure that our store environments are interesting and exciting. And through a combination of the store design, the merchandise we sell and the experience that our sales associates provide that we create an environment that is compelling for consumers. So the most important guideline is that. And our belief is that when we do that well, we have a very strong bricks-and-mortar results, which we do. As you know, our productivity in both our major businesses is north of $800 a foot. And as you know, 99% -- plus percent of our stores generate positive cash flow. As you know, we open and close stores every year and have for years and years, so we're regularly maintaining the fleet. We have not seen a significant impact when department stores close their stores. That's not a new phenomena, by the way, and we've studied it over the last 5 to 10 years on a mall-specific basis. And we haven't seen any meaningful impact to our businesses in those specific situations. Maybe a couple more points. We have a lot of flexibility in our real estate, and that really comes in 2 forms. One is that we have strong protections in the majority of our -- or substantially all of our lease agreements, where if mall occupancy levels fall below a certain level or certain named tenants are no longer doing business in a mall that we have the right to leave that situation with no lease liability. So that provides flexibility. And then with respect to our capital spending, particularly in North America, it's pretty short cycle. And what I mean by that is that we can make adjustments based on macro factors, our own company-specific performance, on a pretty short cycle. And to put some -- maybe 2 points of evidence around that, when we were with you guys in October, we'd indicated that we're -- our CapEx would be as much as $1 billion in 2017, and we've made adjustments based on the performance of our business and now we're expecting CapEx at around $850 million. So a significant adjustment in our real estate activity, again, based on a judgment about risk and reward in the near term. So a lot of flexibility on that further in on a more extreme basis, in the Great Recession, as you'll remember, we pulled our CapEx back from at that time a level of around $500 million to just over $200 million based on the situation at that time. So a lot of flexibility. So again, headline level, the first thing that's most important and it's why we're investing in things like the remodels at Bath & Body Works is #1 guideline is make it interesting for consumers, and they will come. And there are many in retail or certainly a number in retail outside of our company that where they've gotten a strong brand, compelling assortments, a clear position, they're actually doing very well in retail. And again, I'm referring to companies outside of L Brands. Within our company, the PINK business, the Bath & Body Works business and, apart from the adjustments we've made at Victoria's Secret, the Victoria's business over a long period of time has done very, very well. And then again, the health of our real estate fleet, as I've outlined, is very strong and we've got a lot of flexibility. So that's how we think about it. Thank you.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
I wanted to ask about monthly sales. It's great that you guys still give us the color on a monthly basis. More recently, you've had some challenges, achieving guidance that you set out ahead of the month. So I just wanted to ask about sort of the thought process when you set your target for monthly sales. Is it a function of kind of run rate? Or is it more aspirational of what you hope to achieve? And then for May, we noticed you didn't take the opportunity to update your expectation for May in this earnings release. Does that suggest you're on track with what your performance objectives are for the month?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Lindsay. It's Stuart. So with respect to the guidance that we provide at the beginning of a month, I would call it a 50-50 view, meaning an expectation as we start the month. It's not an aspirational number nor is it a sandbag number, so I'd describe it as a 50-50 view. And that's how we've thought about it consistently. And in -- if we go back over the last 5 to 7 years, when our business is performing very well, we meet or exceed those numbers. And when we've got some unanticipated challenges, some of them company specific, some of them, at times, macro, sometimes we miss the number. But more times than not, over a longer period of time, we've met or exceeded those numbers. So that's how we think about it, a 50-50 view. With respect to May, in terms of performance to date, it's in line with what we expected at the beginning of the month, which, reflecting the negative impact of the non-go-forward business, was to be down mid- to high single. On a go-forward basis, there'd be a slight increase in comps for the month. That was our beginning-of-month expectation and today we're running in line with them. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick from Royal Bank of Canada.
Kate Fitzsimons:
This is Kate on for Brian. I guess, just on BBW. It seems like home fragrance has really been leading the comps, but it seems like there are some green shoots going on in the body care categories. Can you just expand on what you're seeing there, and what we should we be looking for as the year progresses in categories outside from home? And then just can you also remind us, what store comp do we need at BBW in order to leverage occupancy, just given the real estate projects happening?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. We'll go to Nick, obviously.
Nicholas Coe:
Sure. Well, I think what we're experiencing at the moment in our, let's call it, body care business, is that the customers got a much higher degree of curiosity as it relates to the product from a health, well-being, good-for-you, efficacious aspect. And we feel good about the early reads, the early signs that we've got as we've ventured into that category. She continues to really want to come to us for a full body care experience, be that fragrance, be that shower gel, or be that of a more efficacious nature. And as we continue to play in those areas, she continues to find or we're experiencing us being pretty receptive, that she's being pretty receptive to that. So that's a pretty big clue for us. As it relates to other categories that we'll go into around that, we're testing stuff. As I mentioned earlier on, it was probably one of our most aggressive quarters in terms of things that we've tested that have given us really good clues as it relates to what not to do as well as what to do. So I'm not going to share with you the categories that we're going to go into other than that we will continue to expand in that area and grow. The return on investment -- the comp that we need to see from a return on investment with those stores is in the high single-digits comp territory. And we continue to be pleased with the results that we've got from those remodels. And as Stuart articulated earlier on, the single most important thing that we have, the single most important asset that we have are our brands. And as we look at the retail landscape and think about the lack of investment that has gone into retail, we don't want to fall into that category. So you're going to see this ongoing pressure on our P&L as we continue to appropriately invest in the stores, make sure that we're investing in a manner that provides us with the right ROI and gets back to the point of is it a great experience for the customer when she comes into the store. And we like the results so far, and we'll obviously do that on a basis that says, "Are we continuing to get what we want?" And if we're not, we'll adjust; and if we are, we'll continue. And that's a good thing, I think, for the brand. I think it's a good thing for the business and, obviously, that's a good thing for the mall as well.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
Great. We had a follow-up on the bra category. I guess, as you lap all of the deflationary pressure from bralettes this summer, should we expect to see some stabilization in price there? And then with the trial activity in lingerie and sport, it's been extensive for a few quarters now. How has that performed versus expectations? And do you expect to see some moderation of that in the back half?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Anna, it's Stuart. So do we expect to see stabilization in overall AURs as we move through 2017? The answer to that is absolutely yes. Given the growth that we drove in the back half of '16 and the first part of '17 in the bralette and sport bra businesses, that will stabilize. And as was commented on earlier, Jan and the team very focused on newness and innovation and compelling bra launches in the constructed space in the back half of the year. So absolutely expect prices to stabilize. With respect to driving unit growth and trial in bralettes and sport bras, I mean, we were extremely aggressive about that in the fall and into the spring. And we've been successful in driving a lot of unit growth in those 2 subsegments of the bra business. We would expect that growth to moderate in the back half of the year, still to be relevant and healthy and those are important segments. But the constructed bra business continues to be the substantial majority of the bra business for us, and it's a very good and a healthy business. And with the regular flow of newness and innovation, we expect that will continue to be a very important to our bra business.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager from Robert W. Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I just wanted to follow up on the growth margin discussion earlier. I guess, looking beyond Q2 guidance does incorporate a pretty sharp inflection in the back half of the year. Can you just update us on the drivers to that? Maybe give us a sense of the magnitude of the shift on the B&O line and what's embedded from a merchandise margin expectation perspective?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So we are expecting improvement in the merchandise margin rate in Q2 as we commented on earlier. And we would expect some improvement in merchandise margin rates in the fall season as well, the back half of the year. And the deleverage related to B&O should also moderate, given the year-on-year volume difference, meaning that we're feeling the pressure right now, the deleverage pressure related to the exits, particularly in BBWs. Deleverage pressure is greater in the first part of the year than it will be in the back half of the year, just given the seasonality of that business. So the B&O rate pressure will moderate as we move through the year.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Kevin Heenan from Guggenheim Securities.
Kevin Heenan:
This is Kevin Heenan on for Bob Drbul. I just wanted to focus on the PINK business. It's been a strong performer in recent years and represents the big piece of the total VS business. I just wanted to hear your thoughts on sort of the opportunities for that segment as well as maybe some of the challenges or risk factors you see maybe that are unique to that piece versus the Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works component.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So with respect to our PINK business, we believe that, that business has the potential to literally double in North America. And that's a pretty bullish statement. But based on how clear minded the business is about the target customer, the opportunity to grow through additional square footage. As you know, many of our stores today don't have sufficient square footage to offer the full assortment of PINK merchandise to our customers. Based on their capabilities in supply chain and other retail fundamentals, business does well north of $1,000 a foot. It's just a very, very well run business. The brand is well defined and very relevant. The real estate opportunity is significant. The online opportunity is significant, and growing very well today, and the sourcing and supply chain-related capabilities, lead times and read-and-react capability, very, very strong in the business. So we see the potential for a lot of growth in that business over the next several years.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Adrienne Yih from Wolfe Research.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
I don't know if this is for Stuart, I think it is. Can you talk about the bralette category penetration last year being about 10% of the bra category? Where do you think that could go? And it certainly looks like you're adding in kind of constructed bralettes or structured bralettes at a higher price point. And I'm wondering what you've seen since you've implemented those or since you started selling those in terms of the willingness for her to buy that category at the higher price point?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So in terms of last year, it depends on what part of last year you talk about in terms of penetration. In the first quarter of last year, the bralette business for Victoria's Secret lingerie was pretty small. And now it's running about 10% of the total. So that's where we are on that business in terms of growth and penetration. And as we commented on earlier, we wouldn't expect that, that will get significantly larger than it is today. With respect to bralettes that have some construction or support or technical benefits in them, thinking about whitespace between these broad categories is obviously an important thing for any retailer to do, and we think about that. And as you observed, we're exploring some of those opportunities and are optimistic about the growth potential in some of the whitespace between the major segments, if you will. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
As you assess top line performance at brick-and-mortar across the fleet, any noticeable differences that you found between your A versus your B and C stores? I guess, how do you feel about the size of the fleet today? And are you seeing any flexibility with rents?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So I gave a pretty long answer earlier about how we think about real estate, which really does encompass our thoughts about it, so I don't want to repeat that. But in terms of variability by mall type, the short answer is in the first quarter and, maybe more importantly, for periods of time beyond that, we don't see a lot. And I've got this sheet literally right in front of me. I'm looking at it, so it's not that my memory is bad or something. So we don't see a lot of variability by mall tier, some, but I wouldn't describe it as significant. And our real estate is in great shape, and that's a function of just the regular monitoring that we do. With respect to lease flexibility, I commented earlier about our lease terms, in terms of situations in the more challenged malls where we have literally month-to-month flexibility. And maybe last, in terms of the opportunity to get lower rents, of course, there's some opportunity for that. But one of the things that is pretty well understood about real estate is it's about location, location, location. And to some degree, you get what you pay for. So if a retailer's #1 strategy is to get lower rents, that may beg other questions. It's not at the top of our list. We certainly don't want to overpay. But what's more important to us, frankly, is investing in our stores, having great locations, having great productivity over $800 a foot. Those are our priorities, and we work closely with our developer partners to achieve those outcomes. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Could you give us an update on the VS beauty business, both on a sales and a margin basis? How's that trended in the first quarter? And then what's baked into your assumptions for the rest of the year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. On the beauty business, as you're familiar with, but I think it bears the quick reminder or repeating. The first thing is we've got a new leader in that business. Greg just celebrated his 1-year anniversary. Greg Unis, coming from Coach. He's doing a terrific job. Importantly, he rationalized the SKU count in that business in the fall by roundly 40%. So a very substantial rationalization of the assortment. And the importance of that, obviously, is to ensure that we're focused on and we can help the customer understand what our true key items are and to drive volume in key items. So he's done a nice job there. As we've also commented on, the flow of production into -- what we refer to as the beauty park, so that's the short lead time, Columbus area set of production facilities. The use of that -- of those suppliers and those reduced lead times is substantially greater than it had been historically. So 2 very important changes in the business. In terms of the results of the business, significant margin improvement in the business and we would expect that to continue and become even more significant in the second quarter. Nice growth in the business online. Some sales dollar pressure in the store channel, but improved sequentially in a pretty meaningful way through the quarter. So February was tough for beauty as it was for most of our businesses, but March was better and April was even better than that. And again, the margin dollar results substantially outperforming sales. So we feel like we've got momentum in the beauty business, very optimistic about Greg and his leadership and the team, rationalized assortment, beauty park, strong lineup for fall. We've seen it. It's qualitative, but we're very optimistic about it. So we think we've got a lot of opportunity in the beauty business. A good business today with a lot of growth ahead of it.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about the China opportunity, any updates there? Any learnings relative to product assortment? How you're thinking about sales and the investment requirements?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana. We'll go to Martin for that.
Martin Waters:
Dana, thanks for the question. We're feeling good about China. We're really making progress on 4 fronts, I would say. As you heard me say earlier, we opened our first full assortment stores, 2 stores opened in February, with good results, very strong customer reaction. We have 4 more stores in the pipe for the balance of this year and then building to 10 to 12 stores next year. So very good progress there. Our beauty business, which has been open for nearly 2 years now, doing very well in those VSBA stores, double-digit comps in the first quarter. Our third business would be the direct-to-consumer business in China, which started back in the fall and has been building month-on-month. And we're excited that we'll move to China next-day delivery for that business during the summer, so good update there. And then, finally, I would say the team, making real progress on hiring a very high-quality team, some really terrific people, getting them onboarded in the business and building capability. So feel really good about that. In terms of the patterns of demand and customer behavior that we see, I would say that it's more of the same in the sense that our replication model works in pretty much the same way everywhere. What we find is bestsellers here tend to be bestsellers there. The 2 substantial differences, you won't be surprised to hear, are around size distortions, that we have a smaller customer. We have to distort significantly to that. And the second is just a lead time difference in getting products into market and through the regulatory environment that there is in that market, means that there is a time delay or an offset to North America. But aside from that, we're feeling very good about the business, and thank you for the question.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Stuart, I was just wondering if you could talk -- you have a great deal of confidence in the constructed bra business rebounding in the back half. And I know that some of the data that indicates that may be sensitive competitively. But I'm wondering if you could talk about any underlying trends that give you that encouragement, perhaps there's trends in place -- excuse me, tests in place that are fortifying your outlook. And also, I was just wondering about the pricing outlook on the constructed bra business. Do you think you can maintain the historical ASP level in that category?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So Janet, as you recognize in your question and as we kind of commented on in the remarks that were circulated last night. We're not getting to get into the details of the bra launches for this fall. It's just too important. We're optimistic about those launches and the nature of those launches in the constructed bra business. And more newness will flow. Some will flow in the second quarter, particularly towards the end of the second quarter. And Jan and the team have a good lineup for fall, but not going to comment on it specifically on this call. With respect to the selling prices or average unit retails in the constructed bra business, as you understand, as we all understand, it's a function of the quality of the merchandise itself. It's about the product, stupid, as they say. And so as we deliver a regular flow of fashion, technical benefit, fundamentally emotional content, where the customers says I've got to have that, that's how we get paid. And we're optimistic between the design folks and the merchant team and the sourcing folks and our focus on reducing lead times and our ability to read, react and adjust that we have the potential to have a very good fall season, particularly in building momentum through the second quarter. So our inventories are in great shape. As we've commented on, inventory per foot is down 12%. We've commented on the fact that, when we start the fall season, more than 90% of our Q4 buy is open. Our agility is very good as a company, and so we're optimistic about the momentum we have in the business and our ability to have a strong fall. Thank you.
Operator:
Our final question comes from the line of Susan Anderson from FBR Capital Markets.
Susan Anderson:
I was just wondering -- and sorry, if I missed this. I hopped on late. If you could talk about, just in general, the competitive environment, say, over the past 10 years. I know there's been a lot of talk about some smaller players popping up. But clearly, it looks like you're gaining share in terms of units. But maybe just do you feel like the competition has gotten a bit stiffer, either because of more players now in your categories or anything else driving this?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Susan, so we'll start with Nick and end with Stuart.
Nicholas Coe:
That's a pretty broad question when you put it in the context of over the last 10 years. I think a number of different things have happened that have led to, we can either call it a stiffer competition or we can refer to it as more aggressive and broader-based competition. So clearly, the marketplace is having some impact, good, better indifferent from what's going on, on the online channel. And I think we're incredibly appreciative of the business that we've had and the gains that we've made in that channel. And what's been impressive about that is we've been able to gain in the channel -- in the direct channel without having to lose any momentum within the store base. So I think this notion that you can have a healthy store base, which is critical because it's the most important expression of the brand, which is why we continue to invest in our stores and have a healthy online channel at the same time. I think the other thing that obviously comes into play is that, with the apparel business being less than exciting, that puts a certain pressure in the marketplace as it relates to price deflation. So customers' expectations around pricing, promotion and markdowns seems to get larger and larger. So what's important to us in there is how do we leverage our short cycles, our ability to get back into businesses that are of full-price selling and control our promotional strategy until we get to a sale period. I think what's going to be probably more interesting is just taking into consideration what is going on from a more macro trend and how does that play into that retail environment. So as customers continue to be more and more engaged in, let's call it, a healthy, good-for-you lifestyle, even if it's only on a superficial level in some cases versus a meaningful level in other cases, you can see the impact on that in malls, mall traffic and customer expectations. So I think the beauty of the BBW brand is that we have an opportunity to do a couple of things. One is we've been able to drive our own traffic gains during those periods of challenging retail. And that the brand has got tremendous elasticity, so our ability to play in trends, to play in fashion, while at the same time trying to take into consideration the foundation of our business, which is pretty strong.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I guess, Susan, 3 or 4 things I would just add. I mean, we're in great categories of retailing. So the intimate apparel space and personal care and beauty categories of retail have strong loyalty characteristics. The potential for high inherent profitability. And so the categories or segments of retail that we're in are very attractive ones, and the good news is we're leaders in those categories. Being in that leading position gives us a lot of advantage. The presence of competition isn't a new thing. There are many other retailers that have tried to get into these spaces, some successful, some not. And then just maybe lastly, one of the other things that I think makes our company unique is that we've been very disciplined about controlling our channels of distribution. So our brands, our products are only sold in our stores and online through our websites. And that control of brand and control of channel has been very important to us. And I think allows us to reinforce and protect the leadership position of these brands.
Amie Preston:
That concludes our call for today, and thank you for your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Heidi, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Fourth Quarter 2016 Earnings Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston. Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Heidi. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' fourth quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, January 28, 2017.
As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website, www.lb.com. Since our opening comments are brief, we plan to end the call around 9:45. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our fourth quarter earnings release, additional commentary and the earnings presentation are all available on the website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO of Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, who is joining us from China this morning, are all joining us today. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We're not satisfied with our overall fourth quarter results. Performance was mixed, PINK and home fragrance at Bath & Body Works delivered solid results. But overall, mall traffic decelerated in December. And at Victoria's Secret, merchandise margin rates were negatively impacted by actions taken in order to end the year with clean inventory.
Looking forward to 2017, we have confidence in the long-term growth opportunities for our business. Our brands are strong and lead their categories, and we have a talented and aligned leadership team. We're continuing to invest in initiatives that will drive significant growth, including White Barn remodels at Bath & Body Works and investment in China. As you know, in early 2016, we also made strategic changes at Victoria's Secret to streamline the business, focus on our core categories and accelerate growth. While these investments and strategic actions will continue to put pressure on results in 2017, we're confident that they are the -- that they are providing the platform for accelerated future growth. Beyond the short-term impacts to this year, we remain committed to our goals of growing annual operating income by 10% and an operating income rate in the high-teens. We will continue to focus on the things that we can control and manage inventory, expenses and capital spending with financial discipline. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Stuart. So just a few comments. While results were better than last year, they were below our expectations, and it really was our speed or our business model really translated as agility that allowed us to win during a challenging Q4 environment.
Looking back at Q4, there really continued to be a shift in traffic patterns, and that put pressure on us to think differently about how to play or how to maneuver our way through that really critical time frame of the year. However, that shift in traffic provided an opportunity in January, allowing us to grow sale and margin. And the quality of our inventory mix was good and demand was strong. Clearly, we're not immune to the ups and downs or the fluctuations in customer behavior, but our business model becomes invaluable. To ensure we can react appropriately missing our expectations on top line growth, but finishing with inventory down to last year and not having to overly promote the brand is a good place to be and frankly, a positive outcome for the season. All in all, it was a challenging quarter, but we managed to grow top line and operating income with terrific insights into next year that we've already started to take action on. We remain committed to staying close to the customer and leveraging our business model to remain as nimble as we possibly can as the market appears to continue to remain pretty dynamic. Just a thought on February. February was very much a month of ups and downs and we were surprised by traffic trend, especially in the middle of the month during the holiday shift, so about a 12-day period. Outside of those 2 weeks, trend in the business really wasn't dissimilar to what took place in November and December. Some category shifts, nothing startling, and pretty much in line with what we've really been witnessing in the past. So I think it's difficult to predict a true run rate until we can get through March and April, where we obviously have more holiday shifts. And our online business has been good, so with the same assortment, that leads us back to what has been going on from a traffic perspective that we see in the mall. With that, I'll turn it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everybody. As Amie said, I'm joining the call from Shanghai, where we just opened our first full assortment Victoria's Secret store in China today. Really a terrific store, about 25,000 square feet, 4-floor store, a real global flagship for the brand. And I'm really delighted with our execution and, frankly, blown away by the customer reaction we've seen today.
I was in Chengdu earlier this week. That store opens tomorrow. And before that, I was in Beijing, visiting the site of our flagship store for the capital, and that opens in December. I continue to believe that China will be an enormous market for us. And I'm very happy that we made the decision to invest now for our long-term success. And with that, I'll turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. And at this time, we are ready to take your questions. [Operator Instructions]. Thanks. And I'll turn it back over to Heidi.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from Paul Trussell from Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Just wanted to really get a little bit more context around how you're approaching this year from an earnings guidance standpoint, and perhaps give us a little bit more clarity on expectations around the extent of the deleverage in occupancy versus the merchandise margin opportunity, especially as we go throughout the year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Paul, it's Stuart. Thanks for your question and good morning. In terms of how we're approaching earnings guidance this year versus what I'll call our historic approach or mindset, it's consistent. And that is that internally, we seek to plan and run the business conservatively. And then, when we have indication of opportunity in sales trends, we read and react and chase and pursue upside opportunity. And that mindset, as it relates to how we run the business on a near-term basis, is reflected in our earnings guidance. Meaning, we try to plan and forecast the business relatively conservatively. As it relates to the buying and occupancy rate for the year, there is going to be some deleverage in the P&L driven by sales pressure on a top line basis and also ongoing investment, both at Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works in remodeling stores. 2016, B&O benefited from the reduction of catalog marketing activity, which we have historically classified or declassified in B&O. So in terms of '17, consistent overall mindset and some deleverage in the P&L in B&O driven by sales and ongoing investment in our stores. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Michael Binetti from UBS.
Michael Binetti:
Just a quick modeling question. If you could, could you please clarify the comment you made on the holiday shift in the middle of February? And I think you were trying to help us normalize that for some of the noise in the month and how you're comparing it to trends that you saw before February. I just want to make sure I was clear on that.
Nicholas Coe:
Sure. Michael, I think the way we're looking at it is the timing shift between when Valentine's Day fell last year and when it fell this year, the timing shift between President's Day last year and President's Day this year. And that in that 12-day window, we saw both mall and then ourselves pretty heavy traffic declines. Outside of that -- which is where we saw decline in our business. Outside of that, the periods pre and post have been more stable and more consistent with the run rate that we had in November and December.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
And the other thing that I would add is that our quarter guidance, and it was in the commentary that was circulated last night, our quarter guidance assumes an improvement in the sales trend from February for the balance of the month -- or the balance of the quarter, excuse me, balance of the quarter.
Michael Binetti:
Okay. Could I just ask you, as we look at how the year could flow for you, maybe just a little more about what you're seeing in the business for the second half? Because obviously, we're going to have 2 very different things going on first half or second half. But could you talk about some of the puts and takes that land you at what I think you're pointing to as maybe positive low single-digit comp trajectory in the second half? If I'm reading correctly that that's where you feel like the go-forward categories will be trending coming out of the first half.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, from a business standpoint, I mean, the assumption that's reflected in our modeling and our forecasting is that we'll continue to make meaningful improvements in our merchandise assortments and how we market and sell those in our business, particularly at Victoria's Secret. PINK has been a steady business and running well and very strong growth. We assume that, that will continue. Easy to say, hard to do. But PINK is led by Denise Landman and has a great team. But as it relates to lingerie and beauty, as you know, we've got 2 new leaders in that business, Jan Singer and Greg Unis. And they're doing fundamental, important work to improve merchandise assortment, the product itself. And we have a belief that the benefit of those efforts will particularly benefit the back half of the year. Also, it'll be a function of what we're lapping, and it'll be a function of the negative impact in the first half of the year related to the category exits at Victoria's. The pressure from China moderates in the back half of the year is another aspect of what's going on. So acceleration in business at Victoria's lingerie and beauty. The effect of the swim and non-go-forward apparel exit concentrated in the first half and then some timing as it relates to the drag from China year-on-year putting pressure on the first half of the year and not so much in the second half.
Operator:
Your next question is from Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
How do you -- how are you thinking about real estate in the store base given the mall traffic environment and what's happening in the malls? How do you see it evolving go forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So to answer it, obviously, an important question. We believe that our brands best come to life in a store environment. We have strong, terrific, compelling, highly profitable online businesses, as you know, about $2 billion in sales related to our online business and a big global opportunity. But kind of reflecting our belief in the store business, Martin Waters is on this call from China because of -- in part, because of the importance of the physical store and the experience that, that represents. With that said, as provided in the circulated commentary last night, we will continue to monitor our real estate investment, our square footage, our productivity, our profitability, our CapEx on a regular basis. And as compared to the view that we had and shared with you in -- during the October Analyst Day, we pulled back our CapEx related to real estate about $125 million between then and our current view. And we'll continue to look at it through the year depending upon the performance in our business. And that reduction was in dollars, about equally split between Victoria's and Bath & Body Works. So our real estate is in terrific shape, as you know. 99-plus percent of our store is cash flow positive. Our sales per foot, more than $800 a foot. A lot of the investment in square footage expansion that we're making relates to the PINK business that has sales productivity of $1,300, $1,400 a foot. But again, all that said, we'll continue to monitor the results and adjust accordingly. And last, last, we're participating well in both channels. So we have a very strong store-based business and we have a very strong online business in North America and one that will emerge globally.
Operator:
From Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
I'm wondering if you can sort of step back and reflect on all the strategic changes made at Victoria's Secret last year and share with us what are the results that you've seen that are in line with what you were hoping to see. And relative to your expectations when you started on this journey, what are the pieces that have come through in a somewhat disappointing way?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks, Kimberly. So in terms of an overall assessment of the changes that Victoria's implemented in 2016, the first I would say is that we attracted through the changes that we made, a younger customer, which we believe is very important to our business. We've always felt that way. Les has felt that way about our businesses from the very beginning. Having that younger customer is very important, and we believe we made substantial progress on that. Secondly, Kimberly, I would say that we drove a lot of unit growth in the bra business. And as you're aware, as most are aware, there are 2 emerging categories or newer categories in the bra business that we pursued very, very aggressively. And we drove a lot of growth in those categories and those being bralettes and sport bras. And so that was a goal. We went after it in a big way, and we drove substantial growth in those businesses. The next thing that comes to my mind in an assessment is that we brought 2 new -- we reorganized the business. As you're aware, it was run as 1 business. We broke it into 3 parts
Operator:
Your next question is from Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
Following up, Stuart, on those comments about promotions and the shift towards trial -- driving trial versus just driving traffic to the store. Last year, when you made a pretty dramatic change in your approach to promos. As you think about this year, could we see a bit of a reversion to some of the old methods that have been successful in driving traffic? Maybe not a full return to the mailers, but are you kind of reevaluating the sort of aggressive reduction in promos as maybe an opportunity to do a little bit better in traffic? And also, as you think about how aggressive the markdowns were in bras, specifically towards the end of last year and into holiday, do you feel like maybe there's just a little bit of fatigue right now from the consumer that's weighing on the business because they came off such a very promotional holiday that she needs a bit of a reset, and that's part of what's kind of weighing on the business in the short term?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So short answer to your first question, which is about continuing to evaluate the nature of promotion, the short answer to that is absolutely yes. And one shouldn't conclude from that. And you recognized it in how you phrased the question. We're not going to go right back to where we were promotionally in terms of just very significant quantities of very simple, not brand-building coupons, as we would refer to them. But we are reevaluating how to have relevant promotion delivered in a brand-building way to her in traditional mail and electronically and communicated in a number of ways as you would appreciate. And those evaluations continue and they're very important to the business. And I'm optimistic that we'll make good ground on that this year in '17. As it relates to the promotional fatigue, Lindsay, I think there could be some aspect of what you're describing. But what I really think about, in answer to your question, is what is most important to Victoria's Secret or Bath & Body or businesses like these is having fresh, new, compelling product. And if we deliver well on that or I should say, when we deliver well on that, all these other aspects diminish in importance pretty significantly. And that is absolutely what Denise and Greg and Jan are focused on, which is regular flow of compelling new merchandise into the business. Again, is there some aspect of what you're describing? It may be true. Probably, it's a reasonable theory. But I'm highly confident that what really solves all of that is compelling newness in our assortments.
Operator:
Your next question is from Paul Lejuez from Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
Just curious if anything changed in how you promoted either in businesses in February. And also have you seen periods in the past where things fell off to this magnitude one quarter to the next? And if so, what was the reason behind it? How did that get fixed?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Paul, we'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Hi, Paul, it's Nick. We didn't really make any major changes to the promotional activity in the month of February. So obviously, we came off of a very strong January and came into February. And as I said, the real challenge was in the middle of the month. What was interesting to us during the month was where we tried to fight traffic and pulse different ideas, we found pretty solid receptivity from the customer. So whether she was in the mall or not, whether she was anticipating to shop or not during that change in traffic, our ability to drive traffic if we needed to with different pulses was actually pretty positive, which says underneath all of that, do we have product acceptance? Do we still have a compelling brand proposition? And so that's kind of one aspect of it. The other aspect of it was we were also -- we're very much a short-cycle business and the importance of us testing, especially products -- less so price, but especially products, to give us clues into where should we be going has also been very valuable during the month. That gives us a pretty solid point of view in terms of how do we want to evolve the brand, where do we want to take the brand to, especially in light of the fact that we are very short-cycle business. So that's really the main -- there was no major change to the promotional or marketing aspect of it outside of just trying to understand receptivity during those difficult traffic periods.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Paul, Nick alluded to it earlier in his remarks. For both Bath & Body and Victoria's Secret, the businesses continues to be very strong online. That's just a very important point to register. And we have seen in our businesses and as reported by third-party service, a substantial reduction in mall traffic in February for whatever reason. Is it tax refund? Is it -- who knows what it is. But it was a substantial fall off. And so fundamentally, that's what's going on. And what we're focused on as a management team is what we can control, which is about -- again, about product and managing the business with financial discipline. And we'll do that. But I think that we had a -- and then the last point, just to make sure we understand and we quantified it for you guys in the pre-circulated remarks, is another compounding factor in all this is the impact of the exits at Victoria's on their number and on the total company number, which in the first part of the year, as you know, is significant. So when you look at down to the headline level number, it gets your attention and it certainly gets ours. But again, it's mall traffic. It's the impact of the exits at Victoria's. And again, what gives us some level of confidence and comfort is the business continues to perform very well online.
Operator:
Your next question is from Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
I guess, a follow-up on February. So historically, do later tax refunds affect the BBW customer disproportionally? Or is this additional volatility being seen at both businesses right now? I guess, understanding the limited visibility out there, but what kind of a comp at Victoria's are you embedding in 1Q guide and for the year?
Amie Preston:
So we'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, hi, Anna. I don't know if we can genuinely sit here and factually comment on whether there's an impact associated with that. It wouldn't surprise me if it's a nation of fierce consumers and they're waiting for cash to come back. There could be an impact of that. But I think it would be dangerous and/or difficult for us to genuinely quantify that. I think it'll be interesting to see what will happen. And as I said earlier in the remarks, it's going to be difficult anyway because of the Easter shift. So it will be important to get through March and April and understand the combination of both of those months. So we shall see.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
The guidance assumption for Victoria's for the quarter -- first quarter in total, is down low double digits. So call it 12%, 13%. Importantly, remember that, that number reflects the impact of the exits. And so the go-forward business assumed comp is a negative low single digit for the quarter. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question is from Simeon Siegel from Nomura Instinet.
Simeon Siegel:
Stuart, so just with the moving pieces on the top line, can you help quantify the puts and takes and the gross margin expectations for Q1 in the full year? And just thinking through, with the exits largely behind, you mentioned clean inventory. I think you called out beauty being up mid-single. Just shouldn't there be some merch margin improvement? So maybe any help thinking through the size of the pieces behind the significant Q1 decline.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. The decline in gross margin percentage in Q1 is driven by the occupancy deleverage that I mentioned before. And so for the company in total, there's a slight decline in the merchandise margin rate. But the real phenomena going on within the gross margin line is the deleverage effect related to occupancy.
Simeon Siegel:
And then just thinking through those pieces, should there be a point where the merch margin starts -- or ends up being a positive tailwind to merch margin?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, in the back half of the year, Simeon, in the third and fourth quarter.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kara Szafraniec from Northcoast Research.
Kara Szafraniec:
Just a quick question about mix at Victoria's Secret. Is mix likely to remain a pressure point this year? And as mall traffic remains negative and mix skews to that lower price point, what do you guys see as the path to getting back to positive comps at Victoria's Secret?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So mix will be -- will present some pressure for Victoria's in the first half of the year as we went after the bralette and lower AURs for bra business aggressively in the second half of 2016. So the mix will present some pressure in the first half of '17, should not in the back half of '17. In terms of how we're going to grow sales at Victoria's Secret, it really gets back to the merchandise most fundamentally and then how we market and sell effectively, both in stores and online. And through some of the commentary previously, hopefully, you know that our dominant emphasis is on merchandise itself and then through compelling store design and compelling online presentation, good interactions with associate sales experiences in stores, that's how we drive growth in the business.
Operator:
Your next question is from Brian Tunick from Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
Two quick ones. Just wanted to hear more about PINK, which opportunities in category growth do you think are the greatest? I obviously know you're not getting out of swim there. But how big do you think that business could be? And what are the most exciting opportunities there? And then maybe just Nick could just talk briefly on the Signature. I think that was a little bit of a slowdown in the holiday quarter and curious what the timing is of the opportunity to course correct that product category.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Brian, I think, as you know, with respect to PINK, we continue to be very bullish on that business. And they've got a very strong loungewear and apparel business, and they've had that for a long time. And they've always had a very strong panty business. And they've also developed a very compelling high-growth, high-profit bra business within that brand. So in terms of the growth opportunity, we see -- and I realize how this may come across, but we see several billions of growth and opportunity really to double that business over the next 4 or 5 years based on results that have been achieved over time and our extrapolation mathematically around square footage in North America, let alone what we may be able to do internationally. As you know, that starts with a clear brand identity and brand position, and then a very strong merchandise and marketing execution consistent with that position and leveraging capabilities that you've heard us talk a lot about, including read and react and chase and short lead times and all of that, that whole mindset. And again, Denise and her team has such a strong understanding of that customer. They're not perfect. They don't get it right every time, but their record is very, very good. And when they do have a miss, which is inevitable in these businesses because of their short lead times and just their mindset of how they run that business, they adjust very quickly. So very optimistic about the growth potential for PINK over the next several years.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, hi, Brian. So I think the best way to think about this is obviously, I mentioned earlier that one of the benefits of having a short-cycle business is that we get to leverage one of our best competencies, which is testing. So we've had a relatively aggressive testing agenda taking place during spring and that will continue. And those reads will be most beneficial for the back half. So more to come on that as we get to the back half. I think the other way of looking at it is and with each delivery as we go through the spring season, there will be newness that is of a nature that's helping us to evolve the brand as we move forward. And I'm talking specifically about Signature, as per your question. So we'll be in a read and react mode in the spring for the back half, and we'll also be in a read and react mode for things that we've put into the assortments that are coming anyway or have come and are coming anyway that will all lead to how do we evolve this part of the business. And so far, we're confident with what we're seeing and I think we're moving in a pretty solid direction.
Operator:
Your next question is from Matthew Boss from JP Morgan.
Matthew Boss:
So with the moderation in the core Victoria's Secret comp, how much of the decline do you think is company-specific versus category dynamics? And I guess, said differently, do you think you're losing share in the intimates category? Or is it overall category growth perhaps declining just given the lower AURs?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. I think depending upon whether you measure share in units or dollars, you might get a little bit different answer because we drove very strong unit growth in 2016. We don't think about market share a lot, frankly, because as the market leader and the dominant participant in the category, what we're looking to do is to grow the market fundamentally. But while there certainly are some emerging competitors and some well-known names, if you will, and then some smaller emerging players, we're -- while we've always had competition from the beginning of the Victoria's Secret business, we think we're well-positioned based on all the equities that the brand has and the capabilities of the team and the organization to continue to be in a very good leadership position. And again, we drove significant unit growth in 2016 in our categories. Thanks.
Operator:
Your next question is from Marni Shapiro from Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
I'd just like to dive in a little bit more into the bra business, the lingerie and bra business, and AURs specifically. I recall, last year, you had pressure on AUR from sale product and from couponing. It sounds like this year and the back half of last year, you had some pressure there from trial on sport and bralette. So looking forward through 2017 and beyond, when should we start to see AUR begin to stabilize? And then can you talk about the merchandise margin complexion of bralettes and sport versus, say, your traditional bras and push-up business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks, Marni. Short answer to your first part of your question is I would expect stabilization of AURs in the back half of '17, reflecting the commentary earlier about our aggressive push in the bralettes and sport bras that we pursued in the fall of '16. And those categories in the bra business do come at lower AURs. We'll be anniversary-ing that. And so I would expect that we would have a stabilization of AUR. And then I'm trying to remember the second part of your question.
Marni Shapiro:
Just the complexion of the margin between bralette and sport versus your traditional bra and push-up business.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Over time, Marni, we would expect to have those margin rates be similar to the overall bra business. And I said over time, we were very aggressive in pricing in 2016 to drive a lot of unit growth and a younger customer to our business. And that was intentional. It was by design, and we were successful in doing that. With that said, we will, through fundamentally differentiation of merchandise in those categories, look to have margin rates over time that are more similar to the overall bra business. And we're not formulaic about that. One should use a lot of judgment on that, and you got to think about dollar growth versus rates and so on. And we try to do our best at that. But maybe by example, if we thought about some other parts of our business over time, for example, the PINK business, there was a time when the PINK business had margin rates that were meaningfully below Victoria's Secret lingerie margin rates. That's no longer the case. And they did a great job through compelling merchandise, sourcing capabilities, speed, read, react, adjust to meaningfully improved margin rates while still driving terrific growth in that business. And we'll be looking to do the same in the sport bra and bralette categories.
Marni Shapiro:
If you pull out the sport bra and bralette category for just a moment and you look at your core bra business, the go-forward part of it, has that portion stabilized? Are you still aggressive there as well? Just trying to separate the 2 because you almost have 2 bra businesses right now.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I understand and I want to be a little sensitive to how much we give out on a call. But there was some AUR pressure in the constructed bra business in 2016. And obviously, we'll be looking to moderate that and get to flatter, improved AURs in '17 as the year progresses.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen from Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
As we do look forward, what's the nature or general framework for how you are thinking about pricing between your core versus sports and bralette? And you did touch upon this, but I would love any additional thoughts on the nature of competition, just because, as we think about categories and channels and online pure plays, curious about what's happened with competition as you brief us on pivots you're making in the business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Oliver. So on the first question around pricing, pricing as a subject is a big subject. And at the end of the day, in our business generally, and it would be true in the intimate apparel business and the bra businesses, we want to create differentiated merchandise, compelling merchandise where we have emotional content and from that, as you know, pricing power. And we think we do that pretty well through the merchandise itself and through the quality of the store format, the online experience, interaction with sales associates, the emotional content in its fullest sense, first and foremost, the merchandise, but everything that surrounds it in the business. And so that's how we work to create value. And then we balance promotional activity to ensure that in important time periods and just to drive traffic in volume and transactions relationship over time that we're driving volume, balancing rate and pricing and dollar results. So that's how we think about it generally. I realize that, that may sound pretty general, but that's how we think about it. As it relates to competition, the first thing I would say, and this I realize, you'll take it for what it's worth perhaps, but frankly, I'm glad we're in categories that are attracting competition. So one of the things that we feel strongly about in this business is that we're in 2 great categories of retail, and that is personal care and beauty and separately, intimate apparel. And if we were in categories at retail where you'd say it was intensely competitive and the average margin was 4% operating income rate, I could think about some other categories of retail that might cause you to conclude one thing. Intimate apparel, personal care and beauty have been very attractive categories for a long time and there has been a regular flow of new competitors for a long time, 20, 25, 30 years. At the end of the day, based on the leadership positions that we have, the quality of the brands that we have and the quality of leadership that we believe we have in the business, we remain very confident about our ability to maintain and grow our leadership positions in those 2 broad categories of retail. So is there a little bit more noise out there today? Probably is. But again, we remain very confident.
Oliver Chen:
Just a quick one with the pricing. Is sport going to be a trial here in the back half? Or is that a little bit TBD as you test, read and react? Curious about that because I know it's been a strategy to generate trial. But will that fade off or should we expect that in the second half as well?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I think we'll -- in both the bralette and sport bra categories, we'll begin to moderate the aggressiveness of our pricing as we work through '17. But that, in part, is a function of how compelling the assortments are.
Operator:
Your last question comes from Susan Anderson from FBR Capital Markets.
Susan Anderson:
Yes, so quick question actually on the international markets. Maybe if you can remind us when you started seeing the pressure on that business from FX. So when should you start to cycle it? And then it looks like the VSBA business is also still seeing some pressure. But any thoughts around that improving now that we're seeing beauty improve at VS in the U.S.?
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Susan. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes, hi, Susan, thanks for squeezing me in. I'll maybe answer the question on VSBA and then I'll throw it back to Stuart on the compare on FX. I think the patterns that we've seen in VSBA very much mirror the patterns that we've seen in the beauty business in North America. And as you know, under new leadership, we're starting to see some traction there and we're excited about what's in front of us for this spring season. And I would expect that to flow through in a replication model to all of our international businesses, be they in the big store format or the small store format. So yes, I think pretty much the same pattern that what you get away from home is the same as you get at home. Stuart, do you want to comment on when we cycle the FX?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Absolutely. Susan, currencies started impacting our company in total in, as you would expect, largely or meaningfully in the international segment really beginning in the fourth quarter of 2014. And that effect continued through '15, continued into '16 but moderated in the back half of '16. And we don't expect at this point a significant FX pressure in 2017.
Susan Anderson:
Great. And I guess, I was wondering more on the tourist side. I think, obviously, travel has been, I think, lower because of FX. So I was wondering, if you expect that to pick up or stabilize any time soon in the international markets?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Martin, do you want to take that or do you want me...
Martin Waters:
Yes, I'd say very difficult to tell, really. I don't think people can predict what's going to happen in the travel market. But the extent of the change is relatively small, to be honest with you, Susan. What I would tell you, and I'm somewhat biased because I'm sitting here in China, is that China is absolutely fantastic. This is a great opportunity and I'm thrilled with what we're doing here. And the opportunities, both in the local market and in the travel sector in China, will be just spectacular in the years to come.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Susan. And thanks, everyone, for joining us this morning. We appreciate your continuing interest in L Brands. Thanks.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Heidi, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Third Quarter 2016 Earnings Conference Call. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston. Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Heidi. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' third quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, October 29, 2016. As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website since our opening comments are briefly planned to end the call at 9:45.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to the safe harbor statements found in our SEC filings. Our third quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us -- sorry, Martin, who is off-site, are all joining us today. Thanks, and now I'll the turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. While we delivered third quarter earnings results that were within our beginning-of-quarter guidance, we're not satisfied with our overall results. Third quarter EPS declined 24% to $0.42. PINK and Bath & Body Works continue to deliver strong results, and the Victoria's Secret business continues to face headwinds related to changes we implemented in the business earlier this year. Results also reflect about $0.09 of pressure related to our investment in China; the Victoria's Secret Fifth Avenue flagship store; higher net nonoperating expense, principally interest; and FX.
The changes we've made within the Victoria's Secret business were proactive, delivery changes that will result in a more streamlined and efficient organization and will accelerate growth in our core categories. We made progress in the quarter on the implementation of these changes, combining our store and direct channels, clearing through merchandise in the exited categories of swim and apparel and making changes to our promotional approach. Our brands are strong, and we are energized about our opportunities for growth. We will continue to leverage speed in the business and be flexible and agile in our approach in order to satisfy customers and maximize profitability. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Stuart. So a good start to our fall season. We grew sales and earnings against record results from last year. We continue to leverage and will continue to leverage our speed model to chase into proven winners across the business. We've been able to keep inventory very well controlled, constantly monitoring our position and maximizing our agility.
We remain pleased with the results of our real estate activity and will stay in the read-and-react mode to ensure the investment and the strategy are smart. We're very focused on executing Christmas, and we're excited about the assortment. And we will continue to leverage one of our most important disciplines, which is, obviously, staying as close as we can to the customer and read and reacting to her behavior. Thanks, and I'll turn it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. As Amie said, I'm joining you from Singapore this morning or this evening my time, where our latest and greatest Victoria's Secret full assortment store opens tomorrow morning. And earlier this week, I was in China with our team there.
As I said at our Investor Conference Day a couple of weeks ago, we're very bullish about the opportunities for global growth and continue to be confident about the strength and perception of our brands outside North America. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have. But in the meantime, I'll turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. So that concludes our prepared comments this morning. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Heidi.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Stuart, as you think about the Victoria's Secret business and the gross margin rate, as we go forward, how much -- how do you think about the declines in the merchandise margin before you see a balancing of the new business versus exiting the old business? How much should this gross margin decline of 190 basis points that we saw this quarter, how do you see that transitioning going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Dana, as we go forward, there will be some ongoing pressure in the fourth quarter and probably, to some degree, into next spring. But as we look farther out, I would start with we see Victoria's as a business that should be a high-teens or better operating margin rate business just based on the quality of the brand and the emotional content of the brand and good retail execution, a place where -- consistent with our overall corporate goals. So there will be some pressure in the fourth quarter. There'll be some pressure on the rate probably going into spring of '17. But on a midterm basis, those things will level out and will have improvement in the gross margin rate, the merchandise margin rate and the overall profit rate of Victoria's after the first part of '17. That's how I'd see it.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Omar Saad from Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
I wanted to ask about some of the things you discussed at the Investor Day, especially around the sport and bralette categories. And any update in terms of your effort to really focus on market share in that category to build up your business there? And any sort of fact that those efforts are and will have on the gross margin line? I guess a little bit of a follow-on from Dana's question.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Omar, it's Stuart. So we're pleased with our results in the sport and bralette categories within the bra business. We drove a lot of unit volume growth, a lot of trial in those segments. And for that reason, pretty pleased with the result. What our company has been able to do pretty consistently over a long period of time is to get to a margin rate and an overall margin architecture that works well for the business over time. And I can think of numerous examples in the business over the years, including a PINK business 5 or 7 years ago that didn't have the same margin rate as the core lingerie business in Victoria's, where through understanding the customer well, great delivery of newness and fashion and leveraging read/react capabilities and speed, we've been able to strike a right balance, an appropriate balance between dollar growth, dollar results and rate. And so we're pleased with our growth, extraordinary growth, frankly, in the bralette and sport bra business intentionally driving trial and unit growth. And as I've mentioned, we're confident that over time, we'll get the right balance as it relates to dollar growth and rate in those categories and in the overall bra business for Victoria's.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez from Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
Nick, at Bath & Body Works, can you talk about your comp performance by location type? I'm just curious what locations -- what types of locations are performing the best maybe on an absolute basis. But also, where did you see the biggest acceleration? If you could talk about different types of location, A malls, B malls, C, maybe street locations.
Nicholas Coe:
Paul, let me think here. So we've actually seen pretty consistent results over the last number of years across our real estate in general, and I could say probably the same regionally. So we're not seeing any weird spikes by region. We're not seeing any weird spikes by location. Obviously, where we have put investments into the new real estate strategy -- or rather the remodel strategy, we continue to see very healthy lift in that business consistent with what we've communicated in the past. And as you know, we will monitor that very, very tightly to ensure that we continue to invest in the right locations to get the right return. And that so far has been tightly monitored and that's monitored, and that so far has yielded the results that we would want. So we'll continue rolling out through the end of this year and into next year.
Operator:
Your next question is from Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
I guess 2 quick ones for Stuart. A question on the fourth quarter guide. Wider range of outcomes for EPS than we historically see from you guys. Maybe talk about what kind of performance are you embedding at the high end and at the low end of the range. And then, secondly, at Victoria's Secret, I think you called out an increase in legal expenses. Maybe talk about what drove that. And should we expect that going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Anna. So with respect to the breadth of our range or our forecast, what we would -- what I would say -- what we would say is that the width of that range or the degree of that range has varied from time to time as you look back in our history, and it reflects in the current situation just a wider range of outcome as we forecast the business. And some of that is macro, but more of that has just been, frankly, reflecting the number of changes we've made at Victoria's Secret. And we're trying to be thoughtful about how we run the business. And in addition to an EPS range that you guys are focused on, understandably, we're trying to make sure that within our thinking is a conservative mindset so that we manage inventories and other aspects of our business appropriately if we end up at the lower end of a range of outcomes. So it's a big quarter, obviously. A lot to play for. We believe we have good plans for the quarter consistent with how we think about the business and run the business. We will read, react and adjust week to week and in some cases, day to day depending upon what we're seeing. And the results of various tests that we always run, that we do have a little bit wider range than we've had in the last few years, reflecting fundamentally a little less predictability given the number of changes at Victoria's Secret. With respect to the legal matters that we -- or expenses that we referenced in our precirculated commentary, those -- we would expect that those would not be of an ongoing nature. As you would appreciate, from time to time, businesses like ours have situations that are infrequent, and that's what that represented in the third quarter. Thanks.
Operator:
From Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, my question is on the EPS headwind here in 2016 and how we should think about them in 2017. I'm wondering if you could just bucket them into 2 different sort of broad bucks if you have that detail available. The first, obviously, the temporary or onetime ones like FX hits, the investment in China, preopening rent on Fifth Avenue, maybe there are others. And the second, obviously, there was some EPS headwind here in 2016 from strategic changes at Victoria's Secret and ongoing real estate investments in Bath & Body Works and just inventory management. So I don't know if you have that level of detail with you, but I'm just wondering, what of the -- what are the pieces that were headwinds in 2016 that go away in 2017? And what were the headwinds in 2016 that you expect to continue going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Kimberly. So there will be pressure from the changes at Victoria's Secret, as I've commented on at our Investor Day that continue into the first half of 2017. And the specifics of that, we'll provide the best update that we can, Kimberly, in February when we give our guidance for 2017. The driver or the impact from China, we would expect, will decline in 2017 versus the impact in 2016. Fifth Avenue, obviously, was a unique situation, so that should not recur. Based on what I see today and what we -- what our thinking is at this point, I wouldn't see meaningful incremental borrowing in 2017, so shouldn't be any additional interest drag, which we had some of this year. So the VS pressure will be there for the first half of '17, some ongoing drag from China, but -- in the first part of the year, but that -- we'll lap that pretty quickly in '17. In terms of capital structure, it shouldn't be anything meaningful based on what we know at this point. So hopefully, that gives you some flavor for it as -- and you've following us for a long time. As you know, we'll do a lot of work after we get through this fourth quarter, which, again, is about 50% of the year, tightening up our views and frankly, also making operating decisions based on our results as we really get ready for 2017. But broad brush, that's how we'd see it at this point. Thanks.
Operator:
From Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
Stuart, I wanted to ask a bit about the margin outlook for the fourth quarter. And it seems as if you have some factors that should actually sequentially be helping you in 4Q, whether it's opening the New York City flagship or lapping the beauty relaunch and also, maybe some of the progress you've made in clearing out some of the excess inventory in structured bras that had been an overhang. So can you -- as you think about 4Q and why the outlook for margins isn't a little bit better certainly versus what we contemplated even exiting the second quarter, what are the factors that are sustaining that pressure despite some of the things that I highlighted that might be along for some improvement? Is the structured bra business or the Victoria's business, the core business, is any aspect of that getting worse versus 3Q? Or maybe just helping me square those numbers.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So an answer to the last part of your question first. We don't have a point of view, Lindsay, that the core bra business, Victoria's is "getting worse" by any stretch. I would say what our guidance reflects. And again, this is dynamic, and we manage it week to week and month to month, is the balance between driving trial and volume, particularly in these 2 new categories of bras that we've talked a lot about, sport bras and bralettes, and balancing that trial and margin pressure -- margin rate pressure with growth in those categories. As you point out, the beauty pressure will diminish, and that will be a benefit in Q4. But just as we laid out a view -- and we're going to work hard to beat this view, obviously, trying to strike the right balance between ensuring that we end the season with clean inventory and really striking a good balance between sales growth and rate. And so as we add that up, there is some -- a little bit of improvement, slight improvement versus the third quarter, but still pretty dynamic in trading those factors off. And again, trying to take a conservative point of view about the rate. And we'll work hard to beat that and we'll see if we can.
Operator:
Paul Trussell from Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
You made some comments regarding the impact of category exits both for the fourth quarter and the first half of the year. If you can just maybe elaborate a bit more in terms of detail on how we should be thinking about that impact to the total P&L and the -- any offsetting factors to those category exits.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So we did provide a little bit more perspective on the sales pressure that we estimate related to the category exits in our prepared commentary that was sent out last night. But in terms of offsets, number one is we're looking to drive accelerated growth in other categories; and number two, as you're familiar with and we've talked about before, we took a fair amount of expense out of the business. So pretty meaningful reduction in expenses related to the catalog at Victoria's Secret Direct, a reduction in overhead at Victoria's Secret and rationalization of some other marketing activity at Victoria's Secret. And so working hard to drive volume in core categories and existing businesses to offset that sales pressure and again, took a meaningful expense out of the business as part of the changes that we began implementing in the spring season of this -- of 2016. So a big offset is on the cost side of the business.
Operator:
Your next question is from Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Stuart, I just wanted to talk a little bit about the lingerie business. Total bra and panty sales declined a little bit year-over-year. I think that's driven by AUR. So when you look at the business and consider the growth of the underlying cost in the bralette, should we think that -- along with the sport bra business, should we think that the AUR declines that you're seeing could prevail? Or do you think that this higher AUR structured bra business can gain some momentum as we go through the fourth quarter next year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. I guess, Janet, thanks for the question. I mean, I would just start with the fact that the bra business is absolutely core to Victoria's Secret. And a growing, healthy, very strong margin dollar growth, bra business is among our highest priorities in our company. And so knowing that, just -- you should know how we think about it, its importance, and what we'll be working towards. There have been some important shifts in merchandise categories. But one of the other benefits is we have -- that offset, at least in part, the lower AURs related to the sport bras and bralettes is we were doing a lot of those $10 off a bra promotions that, as you know, we have stopped doing. And so the timing and specifics of when do we get to meaningful dollar growth in the bra business and the outcomes that are so important to us, we're working through some significant transitions right now. But we're very clear minded about what the goals are, and that's on the line point of view through the organization. And at the end of the day, I'm highly confident that we'll achieve that outcome. But it's a little dynamic right now based on some of the changes in the merchandise assortment and the proactive changes that we've made.
Operator:
Your next question is from Brian Tunick from Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
Two quick ones. First, on the fourth quarter comp guide. I guess you're saying flat to positive low singles versus, I guess, November, you're guiding low singles. So just curious how we should read into that. And is there any timing shifts on semiannual or anything we should think about? And then, I guess, Stuart, from a capital allocation -- or really, special dividend question we've been getting from investors. You were able to cut your full year earnings outlook, put the CapEx at the high end of guidance, but still maintain your free cash flow range. So just curious how you think about special dividend when you rank your priorities of use of cash flow.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Brian, on the first part of that, the pressure from category exits is a little greater in Q4 than it was in Q3 and most particularly, as it relates to the swim business in the non-go-forward apparel business that we exited. So that pressure is a little greater for Victoria's in the fourth quarter than it is in the third quarter. So that's really the delta that you're asking about or observing in the comp question that you asked. As it relates to special dividend and return of cash, you've also been following us a long, long time. You know what our point of view is about that, which is it's a very important source of return for shareholders and one that we're deeply committed to in a balanced approach between regular dividends, special dividends and repurchases, particularly as it relates to operating cash flow and CapEx and minimum cash levels. We earn a lot of our cash in the fourth quarter, as you know. We generate a lot of our cash in the fourth quarter. And we'll have the right discussions, as we always do, with our board and work to strike the right balance between a lot of interest. And you should know that the planning of any of this stuff, including CapEx, is dynamic. And so we regularly review the performance of our business and make judgments about how to best balance reinvestment in the business, and the results have been very strong to date based on that reinvestment in real estate with IRRs of 20%, 25% or better for both Victoria's and Bath & Body.
And that's where the substantial majority of the CapEx is going. But we also take very seriously managing the business appropriately to ensure that we always have to the right cash and liquidity in the business. We've got a strong balance sheet and a very good maturity profile in our debt and a $1 billion revolver, et cetera. But it's dynamic. And a lot of cash generated in the fourth quarter, and we'll have the right discussions with our board as we go through the fourth quarter.
Operator:
And your next question is from John Morris from BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
Just a quick clarification, Stuart, and then a question for Nick and Jen if she's there. In the prepared pre-released transcript -- and we talked -- we touched on the impact, and thanks for pointing that out, for Victoria's Secret for the first half. In terms of comps, potentially negative high -- negative high single. Is -- are we to think -- in terms of impact, are we to think, all things being equal, if your guide had been plus 2% to 3% or possibly singles it's been, would that sort of indicate negative mid-single? Or as far as we can see here, it's more like negative high single. And then maybe if we can just get a quick commentary from Nick and/or Jen if she's there about the outlook for holiday this year versus last year. And I know Jen wasn't there last year, but maybe what she's most excited about, what the differences are, where the -- what you're really most excited about.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So John, as you mentioned in your question, we're trying to be helpful and quantify where we can the effect of exits, including a preliminary view of the impact in the first half of 2017. But I really don't want to get ahead of ourselves and start to provide full 2017 guidance when we haven't really even started the fourth quarter in a meaningful way yet. So I understand your curiosity and why you're curious about it. But again, I don't want to get ahead of ourselves and say, okay, so -- and provide L Brands' total revenue or comp guidance at this stage. It's just pretty immature. But we're trying to be helpful to you and others following the company about the quantification or significance of the exits in the first half of '17. But I don't want to get -- go down a path here where we're now issuing 2017 guidance in early November or mid-November of 2016. Jen isn't with us today. But the Victoria's team is very enthused about holiday, and we believe we have good plans for that business. And one thing that we're sure of is we'll read and react and adjust based on those plans. And we're enthused about having a very strong holiday result through a range of new items and key items and giftable moments, et cetera. And we'll all see how it unfolds. And Nick will comment about their plans for Bath & Body Works. Thanks, John.
Nicholas Coe:
Let's start with path. I think we're in pretty good shape from an inventory perspective. So that sets us up well. Most importantly, you know as well as we know, the backbone of our business is agility. And so going into fourth quarter, making sure we're leveraging those muscles so we can react appropriately, frankly, to her shopping trends and/or the environment. And we do know the levers that we need to pull in the event that we need to drive traffic and/or drive units. We very much like our Christmas floor sets. I know you saw that when you were out here, and we continue to be comfortable with that. I think things that we're most excited about probably evolving around understanding how our real estate will continue to perform during that time frame, what type of customer behavior we get both in those side-by-side and in the shop in shops as they're a slightly larger portion of our total fleet than they were this time last year. I think we're excited about a continuation of, frankly, a strong and healthy home business. And obviously, the newness that we've delivered, what will transpire from that, we're excited about a fair chunk of the newness that's coming into the store that -- which should be setting us up well for next year.
John Morris:
Nick, the assortment looks great, and that Easton store looks terrific.
Nicholas Coe:
Thank you very much.
Operator:
Your next question is from Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
So at Victoria's Secret, what's the best way to think about the evolution of the promotional strategy from here as we move into next year? What inning of change would you say we're in today? And then just how would you rank the underlying same-store sale opportunities to help offset the category drags into next year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So in terms of change in promotional strategy and where are we in that journey, I would say we're still relatively early in that journey. So we have made some clear decisions to eliminate or reduce broad-based promotions like the free panty and $10 off a bra promotion that drove a lot of activity in the history of the business. Obviously, made an important change in terms of -- the marketing advertising of the business you put in promotion as well around how we communicate with customers with respect to the catalog have made very good progress on driving trial through pricing and promotion in sport bras, bralettes and certain of the Victoria's Secret Beauty categories. But it's a big subject, as you're aware. And how do you think about loyalty and loyalty programs, how do you think about proprietary credit, how do you think about the best ways to communicate with customers over time, these various promotional ideas. And I think -- and others are more heavily involved in this, but I'm involved in it. I think we're still relatively early on. And as I think about that, I think that suggests a lot of opportunity for the business. So that would be my sense on that. In terms of some other things that can offset some of the drag, the most important thing for a business like ours, whether it's Victoria's or Bath & Body or Bendel or La Senza, any of them, is to have great merchandise. They have a very clear point of view about customer and to have compelling regular flow of new key items that -- where she says, "I just got to have that." So that's the most important thing, and we got a lot of talented people working on that and all the major categories of the business at Victoria's. And then the other thing I would mention because we believe strongly that it is a driver of sales growth and comp growth over time is continuing to improve our in-store selling and our in-store customer experience. And we've made some progress on that front. We've been talking about it, as you know, for a number of years. And we laid out our core ideas, if you will. But we would share a view that there is ongoing meaningful opportunity to drive sales growth through continued improvement in the customer experience for our business. So that's just another category of opportunity for us. And maybe lastly, and Nick has spoken a lot about this, but the corollary exists at Victoria's as well. When you get the store environment right, and Nick has talked about the result of a remodeled Bath & Body, and Victoria's has some pretty compelling store designs, that aspect of the experience is also very powerful in these categories and another driver of sales growth in these businesses.
Operator:
Your next question is from Ike Boruchow from Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess, Stuart, just a quick one. Just looking through the segments in a little bit more detail. Can you help parse out some of the moving pieces in the other segment? Just -- because the losses, I think, came way down in Q2 and now they're higher again in Q3 this year. So just curious what exactly is driving those quarterly puts and takes and how to think about Q4. Not sure if that's La Senza or what exactly we should -- is moving that around.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Ike. The year-on-year driver in the other segment for the third quarter was the impact of a number of technology projects that are underway in the business and the expense portion of those projects that's reflected in the other segment. So in terms of the key year-on-year driver, that's what it was, Ike, in Q3.
Operator:
Your final question is from Oliver Chen from Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
As you do engage in the edits to the promotional strategies, which seem really prudent for the long-term brand equity, what's the interplay with that? And just setting our expectations appropriately for traffic over the medium term. And as we think about omnichannel for the long term, Stuart, what are the features which will continue to integrate bricks and clicks, whether that be buy online, pickup in store and ship from store? And what are the key opportunities you see that make sense for materially continuing to drive a big and relevant part of the business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Oliver. In terms of promotional strategies and how they affect traffic, big subject, obviously. And as you appreciate, Oliver, a lot of things drive traffic. And I -- we even start with, we believe -- and I'm not trying to avoid your question, I'll get to it, but just trying to share with you how we think. We believe we have a lot of sales growth opportunity with the traffic that we have, if you will, with the steady state amount of traffic even as strong as our conversion rates are. And I think they're among the best in specialty retail. The fact is there are a lot of people that come into our stores that, for whatever reason, we're not able to convert to buyers. And again, our conversion rates are very high. But there's more that we can do with the traffic that we have. So I would start there. Separately, promotional strategies are about striking balance on a number of fronts and certainly, can and do drive traffic into the store. And through some of the promotional changes that we've implemented at Victoria's, we're continuing to evaluate the interplay between driving trial in key categories and the dynamic you're asking about, which is driving incremental traffic into the store. And I think we're learning more about that. And again, we'll seek to strike the right balance. But the most important thing as it relates to promotional strategies is to do things that are healthy for the brand and don't damage the brand over time. But a lot of balances to strike in the short term. With respect to digital, Oliver, in terms of like what's going to be new or different, as you know, we've got terrific digital businesses. The growth for both Victoria's, and Nick can comment about BBW, very, very strong. The biggest opportunity for us in digital beyond continuing to grow the existing platforms well in -- that are primarily focused on North America is to really go after the international opportunity for digital. So as opposed to 1 or 2 additional features for consumer experience, the big opportunity for us in digital beyond what we're already doing is to more aggressively go after that business outside of North America.
Nicholas Coe:
Hey, Oliver. So if I bring it up to a slightly higher level for us, we're constantly trying to figure out and indeed, we are evolving the brand. And so the primary focus for us is how do we get the brand to next. And on the assumption that we fundamentally have the identical assortments online and in stores and the identical pricing strategy, that allows us to really go back to basics, which is the #1 goal for us online is to be able to market the brand, drive traffic, use it for storytelling and really use it for launching an information sharing of new products, especially if you go back to the beginning, which is we're trying to continue to evolve this brand. That doesn't negate our responsibility to figure out how to grow the business. And as you've been able to see, we've continued to see very, very healthy growth in there and will continue to invest in different formats, different models and different testing to ensure that we can do both of those. So it's a really important channel, but it's very much a complementary channel and very much used to market the brand.
Amie Preston:
Thanks much, Oliver. That concludes our call for today. We want to wish everybody a happy Thanksgiving and happy holiday. Thanks.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Lisa, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands' Second Quarter 2016 Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lisa. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' Second Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, July 30, 2016. As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website. We will make some brief introductory comments in order to allocate more time to your questions.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our second quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works, who is off-site today; Andrew Meslow, COO of Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. All results that we discuss on this call are adjusted results and exclude the 2016 pretax gain of $108.3 million, $0.24 per share, related to a cash distribution from Easton Town Center; and the pretax charge of $35.8 million or $0.08 per share, related to the early extinguishment of our July 2017 notes. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We're pleased that we were able to deliver a slight increase in operating income against last year's record result and a second quarter earnings result that was above our initial expectations, all in the midst of significant change in our business.
We remain confident that the changes we are implementing at Victoria's Secret, which we discussed in detail on last quarter's call, will simplify the business and position us for accelerated future growth. We made progress in the quarter on the implementation of these changes, combining our store and direct channels, clearing through merchandise in the exited categories of swim and apparel, and beginning to make changes to our promotional approach. We are well positioned heading into the fall season. Our brands are strong, and we're energized about our opportunities for growth. We will continue to leverage speed in the business and be flexible and agile in our approach to -- in order to maximize profitability and deliver great experiences for our customers. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Hey, thanks, Stuart, and good morning, everybody. Just a few additional comments before handing over to Martin. Overall, pretty pleased with our first half performance. We feel good about growing sales and earnings on top of the record performance that we had last year. And we continue to leverage our speed model, which has really provided us the opportunities to chase and to win [ph] across the business, which is obviously beneficial from a top line and a bottom line perspective.
Once again, our inventory is well positioned. And clearly, we'll closely monitor that position to maximize our agility as we maneuver our way through the season. Finally, we remain very, very committed to one of our most important disciplines, which is all about staying very close to the customer and reacting to her behavior. This is something that allows us to feel confident as we work through the season with newness, floor sets and changes, et cetera. So it puts us in a pretty healthy position. Thank you. And I'll turn it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everybody. As we mentioned in the preprepared notes, the pattern from Q1 really continued into Q2, with impacts from our investment in China, from FX and sadly, from weakness in our Victoria's Secret Beauty business.
I'm actually just back from a long trip around the world. I went to the U.K, Dubai, Hong Kong, Macau, Shanghai. I just got back last night. And I would tell you that everywhere I went around the world, I thought the standard of execution was just fantastic in all markets. As it relates to China, I was particularly impressed with the talent that we've been able to recruit into that market with the leadership that we now have in place to take us forward. So feeling very excited there. I also saw some great real estate that's in front of us for China. So overall, feeling very optimistic. Over to you, Amie.
Amie Preston:
All right. Thanks, Martin. So that concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions]
And I'll turn it back over to Lisa.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] And your first question comes from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Stuart, I wanted to follow up on the Other segment loss, which was much better than we had expected. Can you just give us a little bit of insight into the cost cuts there, how sustainable they are and then perhaps, an update on the Henri Bendel and La Senza pieces of that?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. In terms of the year-on-year improvement in the Other segment result, we certainly are working hard to manage corporate overhead and other expenses with discipline. We did have lower bonus payouts for the spring season, reflecting our results versus a year ago. Also, in the LY result, we had a few discrete expenses that didn't repeat in 2016. All that said, we'll continue to manage corporate overhead with discipline, and we'll continue that mindset. In terms of the Bendel business, we remain optimistic about that concept and that brand, that business, that opportunity. They continue to drive sales growth in their stores and are developing a very nice online business as well. And so we're optimistic we'll continue to work to get the best results this fall season and periodically think about how and when to best expand that business. But the focus right now is on driving further sales growth in the stores that we have, driving good results online, which we are, and improving the margin architecture of that business. So -- but good overall trends for Bendel.
Martin Waters:
Maybe a few comments on La Senza. Really good performance in La Senza. In fact, we've seen positive comps in each of the last several quarters in that business, really getting closer to the customer and sharpening up the proposition around young, sexy, obvious value positioning, and excited that our launch in the USA will take place later this fall. So good progress in that business.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager from Robert W. Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
I was hoping you could dig into the beauty repositioning a bit. Just when do you begin to lap the more significant pressures on that business? And given the shorter lead times there and the aggressive clearance activity through Q2, just why wouldn't we expect to see a more significant inflection point in Q3? And then kind of separately, still on beauty. On the international side, do you have any ability to make some shifts in the product or pricing given the learnings in the U.S. over the last few quarters? Just wondering if that might impact the timing of an inflection on the international side.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Mart -- Mark, sorry. We'll start with Stuart, and then go to Martin.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So I think as you appreciate, maybe in order from our standpoint, we've got a new leader in the beauty business. He started in May. He's learning about L Brands and Victoria's Secret and is on-boarding, but now getting into the business of the business, if you will. Second point I would probably register is that through promotional and other activity, changes in pricing and promotion, we certainly tried to and did drive a lot of trial in the second quarter, and we expect to continue that in the fall season. So through pricing and promotional activity, driving trial in core categories of beauty to drive business, to drive results. And encouragingly, we're seeing some pretty good repeat -- customer repeat post-trial with some of those products. The third thing I'd mention is Greg working with Les and others, developing a point of view and implementing a point of view about rationalizing or narrowing the assortment in a meaningful way this fall season. And then lastly, as you teed up in your question, we, in terms of what we're lapping, the year-on-year pressure in '16 will moderate as we go through the fall season. And maybe last, last is we all recognize the importance of speed in our business, and including, through the eyes of new leadership, really working to reduce lead times in that business, make further use of the beauty park that we have for personal care and beauty at Victoria's Secret Beauty. And those changes are beginning, and we'll have some positive impact on the fall season. But -- so we'll see some year-on-year reduction in pressures certainly through fall. And it's such an important category. It's such a strong category for us, that we're very committed to it and optimistic about the growth potential for that business over the next, call it, 12 to 24 months.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Martin, anything to add there?
Martin Waters:
Yes, we see very similar patterns in the international business to the patterns that we see in North America. As you know, it's a replication model in international. So we sell the same merchandise that we have in the home market. So to that extent, not much opportunity to do things differently. But as you suggested in the question, Mark, as it relates to pricing and promotions, we do have opportunity there. And we are taking the learning from North America, and we're flexing and adapting our plans in that respect.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
I guess, our question on SG&A. Stuart, leveraged pretty significantly here in the second quarter. What drove that? I think you're just starting to see lower home office costs. And trying to understand the expectation for deleverage in the third quarter, why wouldn't we see some of those benefits continue?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So our -- the management of the company is very focused on balancing our investments in the business, including those that hit the SG&A line, and doing that with discipline. In terms of the difference between the second quarter and the third quarter result, in Q3, we have a lower sales assumption. Now we're going to work hard to beat that sales assumption. But just in terms of the math of it and the impact on rate guidance, we have a more conservative assumption about comp and total sales growth in Q3 versus Q2. Secondly, our investment in China and its impact on SG&A is more significant in the third quarter than it was in the second. And then lastly, as I mentioned in the context of the Other segment, our spring and Q2 specifically, expenses related to short-term incentive comp provided benefit in Q2. And our going-in assumption for Q3 is that, year-on-year, the benefit won't be as significant in the third quarter. So those would be the highlights.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen from Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Your core lingerie business growing at low single versus PINK double digits, could you just brief us on how you feel about core lingerie and how do you expect to impact the assortments? I was also curious about the averaging of retail across your core lingerie and how you feel about the mix between good, better and best in fashion versus core.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Oliver. It's Stuart. I'll respond to that. So in terms of core lingerie, there are some important trends going on in the business, and we're taking significant action to participate in and frankly, lead with respect to those trends. And what I'm speaking about is the unconstructed or bralette trend as one and separately, the sport bra business as a second important development in the bra category. And we've made significant progress and drove meaningful growth in both of those areas in the second quarter and intend to pursue those segments of the bra business very aggressively in the fall season. One of the important things about the bralette business or unconstructed bra business, particularly as we do think it has a higher fashion element to us -- to it and we think that's a good thing for us, we've been a fashion specialty retailer for a long time, our abilities in terms of lead times and speed and read-and-react particularly play well into the bralette category. And while the AUR in bralettes is below some of the other categories in bras, we believe that the unit volume or their frequency of purchase, given the fashion element to it, in part makes up for the lower AURs. So those are 2 important trends in the bra business. Again, we drove very significant growth in both of those trends in Q2 and expect the same or even greater growth in the fall season. In terms of the average unit retail, in total, importantly, in connection with our promotional changes, we had a large number of offers in our history, in our base, that included $10 off a bra. And we've substantially reduced or eliminated those offers. So that provides upside in the AUR. And kind of when you pull it all together, our non-redline AUR for the second quarter was pretty consistent with prior year or steady with -- compared to prior year. So the combination of all those things, we didn't have a decline in AUR in non-redline categories of the business. PINK continues to also grow its bra business at a very healthy rate. So some changing dynamics for sure, but we had good overall results in the bra business, driving sales growth and very optimistic about the fall season with respect to bras.
Oliver Chen:
Stuart, on the unconstructed bra comment, what would you say to skeptics that think that the marketing that you've traditionally done isn't necessarily conducive to the changes happening? Just curious on that.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, we just -- in terms of promotional approach, we think the direct mail couponing that we were doing, we think there's just frankly a better way to market and promote the brand. And so we're pursuing different types of promotions, and we made good progress on that in the second quarter. And we'll continue to learn about the most effective ways to promote within Victoria's Secret. But again, we've been doing a lot of direct mail couponing for a number of years, and we think there's a better way to drive business and build our brand going forward.
Amie Preston:
Yes. And Oliver, I'd just add to that. In terms of the marketing, as it relates to image or television, advertising or anything like that, certainly, the same way we focus on speed within our merchandise assortment, I mean, we can take the same approach with respect to marketing. So I think we can be agile about that. We have made changes in terms of our visual marketing, and so it's about fashion. We are a fashion business, and so that's constantly evolving.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Richard Jaffe from Stifel.
Richard Jaffe:
And if we could talk for a minute about PINK and obviously, with rapid growth, seems to be the winner in your portfolio. I'm wondering, looking ahead your opportunity to invest in that space and to accelerate or expand line extensions, new products, I'm wondering what your thoughts are regarding investment, and if you can give us some visibility into the fourth quarter, in particular.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, Richard, the first thing I would say is PINK is a very strong business within L Brands. The other business that's been consistently very strong for us is the Bath & Body Works business, and I wouldn't want that to be lost through our discussions. But with respect to PINK, it's been a terrific business. And we see very substantial ongoing growth for that business, easy to say, hard to do. But the -- Denise Landman and the team there are very, very good at what they do. As you know, they have a clear mindset on their target customer. Their ability to execute their business in season and longer term is outstanding. Their use of speed, read-and-react capability is terrific. So they have a very clear customer segment. They're executing very well. They have very deep and strong capabilities. With respect to investing in that business, a lot of the square footage that we're adding and a lot of the capital that we're spending on real estate is positioning and supporting PINK growth. And so as you know, Les Wexner and our company, we're not afraid to invest when we've got a trend and results and the payback, and we're investing record levels of CapEx in our business. And not suggesting that all that money is going to PINK, but a lot of it is in terms of square footage growth of Victoria's, and again, a lot of that flowing to PINK. Denise is very optimistic about the fall season. It's off to a good start. And again, their ability to read, react and adjust within the season is very strong. So great business, great second quarter result, very optimistic about the fall. And L Brands is investing very heavily in that business and getting very good returns.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Paul Trussell from Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Just wanted to ask a question on Bath & Body Works. There's been good momentum there. Maybe you can just give us a little bit more color on the products driving [ph] the growth as well as an update on the performance of the models. And then lastly, just your confidence on continuing to have merchandise margins up in the back.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul. So we're going to start with Andrew, and then -- since Nick is off-site, and if he has anything to add, he can jump in.
Andrew Meslow:
Paul, thanks for the question. On the first part of your question, in terms of category performance and what's been driving our results, as you saw in our prepared remarks, we specifically called out our home fragrance business, which has been a consistent strong driver of our overall business now for the last several years. In addition to that, obviously, we have our other product categories, such as our Signature Collection fragrant body care business and our soap and sanitizer businesses. And while we did not call those out explicitly in our prepared remarks, those businesses are also growing over the last year. And so in total, I would say we continue to be pleased with our overall results and our overall portfolio of performance. I believe your second question was regarding our remodel strategy. As a reminder, that remodel strategy is one that is focused on touching this year about -- we'll finish this year with about 250 stores in that new remodel that, again, includes both a remodeled Bath & Body Works store as well as a White Barn concept, either in a side-by-side location or a shop-in-shop format. And again, our overall results are -- continue to be very positive. We continue to be very pleased with that performance, and we are committed to driving continued investment into that strategy, both for the balance of this year and well into the next several years. And then last, your question on go forward and our thoughts there. Again, as you've heard Stuart say, read-and-react is a very, very important lever in our business. And so as we start any new season, we go in with a relatively conservative perspective. We then follow the trends of the business. We're constantly testing, whether it's new product categories, whether it's new promotional strategies, whether it's new storytelling strategies in stores, and we use that read-and-react capability to chase to the upside. So again, as we come into the back half of the year, which is, especially in the Bath & Body Works business, a very important time frame, we are still very confident in our ability to use that business model to chase to the upside.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, my question is on the Victoria's Secret promotions. That brand has obviously been adjusting a number of the promotions used, as you mentioned, eliminating the $10-off coupon and instead, offering alternative kinds of promotions. I'm wondering if you can share any of your learnings from that, and if you, at -- you're 3 months in, have a greater degree of certainty about how to guide the brand through lapping that $10-off coupon here in the next few quarters based on what you've learned so far.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Kimberly. What I would say is that we shifted our promotional strategy from that free panty, $10 off a bra direct mail coupon generally to promotions intended to drive trial. And that might be trial in beauty, as we've talked about. It might be trial in sport or sharp pricing and promotions related to the bra business and particularly, the unconstructed bra business. I would say we absolutely have shown that we can drive trial in those important categories. We are lapping a lot of this direct mail volume, and that amount of business that was driven is more significant in Q3 than it was in Q2. But again, our view is we really want to have purposed promotions that are brand-building and drive trial for merchandise that we think is terrific merchandise. Again, whether it's in the beauty business or sport bra business or in the unconstructed or other parts of the bra business. So that's our mindset. I would say what we learned is that we can absolutely drive trial. But I wouldn't suggest and you recognize implicitly in the question, do I think we have all of that figured out in the first few months of this? Would not represent that. But good progress on it in the second quarter. And I know we'll continue to learn more in the third quarter and the fall season.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the name of Ike Boruchow from Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
On the international side, I guess, Martin, a question for you. Correct me if my math is off, but based on the remarks you gave in the script, it sounds like your China business might have contributed around $8 million in sales and about an $8 million loss in the quarter. I guess, is that right? And is there a good way to think about sales and losses the next 2 quarters for that part of the business? And how would you characterize profitability and sales growth next year and maybe a time line to potentially breakeven there?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes, thanks, Ike. I appreciate the question. I think the way you characterized the numbers is about right, $8 million of sales, about $8 million of loss. Sadly, it's hard to put those 2 things together because they reflect different parts of the business. So the sales reflect the VSBA stores that are up and running and are trading. The loss represents the efforts that are going into building the full-assortment business, which will open in February of 2017. So those 2 parts are not related to each other. In terms of thinking forward and how do we project what's going to happen over the next several months, very, very difficult to do that. What I would tell you is that we're on track to open 2 full-assortment stores probably towards the end of February 2017 and then another flagship store in Beijing around the middle of the year. And we'll continue to trade the VSBA business and add to that selectively, probably about 6 stores over the course the next 6 months. And then in addition, there's a third part to the business, which is our direct-to-consumer business, where, later this fall, we will test a full Chinese-language, Chinese-currency site, which will initially be fulfilled out of the USA on a test basis, ready for full fulfillment out of China in the middle of '17. So there's just so many moving parts, Ike, that it really is quite difficult to predict. We don't -- as you know, in terms of the way that we run the business, we don't spend that much time looking into the crystal ball to try and predict what will happen. We try and follow the pattern of test and learn. The most important thing is to get the business stood up with the right brand presentation in the right way, see what happens, and then be flexible and agile and adapt as necessary. But I'll probably be able to tell you more when we get to our investor conference later in the fall.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Stuart, I just wanted to confirm my calculation to get to your SG&A guidance for the year that you should be able to get some SG&A leverage in the fourth quarter, even though I think your comp assumption for the fourth quarter is something around flat, using the guidance that you gave us last night in the summary. I wondered if that was a correct calculation. And then, for Martin, I wondered if you could just tell us, in the core international business, ex the acquisition of China, how the traffic, the tourist traffic is trending and if you've seen any improvement versus prior months.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. We'll start with Stuart for the SG&A question.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Janet, we're -- in terms of our current view, we -- as we talked about earlier in the context of Q3, we're expecting some deleverage in Q3, reflecting a more conservative sales assumption. With respect to the fourth quarter, we also have a pretty conservative sales assumption in our Q4 view. And as a result, also some deleverage, not as much as the third quarter. And that gets us for the year to be -- for SG&A to be roughly flat to what it was a year ago. I think, as you know, you followed us for a long time, we'll work very hard to manage expenses with a tough mind and with discipline. And we want to make the right investments in our business to deliver great experiences for customers, but we also want to make sure that, over time, we're growing expenses lower than sales.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So tourism does continue to be down slightly around the world. A couple of areas that I'd point out specifically, I think Russian tourists and Latin-American tourists are the 2 groups of that are most impacted, both out of those geographies and into those geographies. So that's one that I would call out. The second is tourism to high-profile cities around the world is also down. So if I look at our business in the U.K., we think real strength outside of London, a little more difficult in London and areas where we are dependent on tourist traffic. So overall, about the same pattern in Q2 as we saw in Q1. And I think that's probably the new normal for the balance of this year.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Omar Saad from Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
I wanted to follow up on the discussion around bralettes and sports bras. Wondering if you're seeing in your data, whether it's through the loyalty program, the Angel Card, kind of insights around behavior around the categories. Are you seeing consumers kind of dapple in the new types of bras or are you seeing heavy adoption? And when they are buying bralettes and sports bras, does it tend to be incremental to their historical bra purchases? Any insight around the behavior, especially since you can probably get a lot of visibility through your -- through the data you get in your loyalty program, the Angel Card?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Omar, thank you. The most significant insight that we've had, and this is, we think, a very important one for us, given how we think about what we do, is that the customer is absolutely a younger customer. And we think that's very important to our business. We've always been about marketing to, segmenting, targeting customers certainly with a young mindset. And any time, any of our business, we feel like the customer is starting to not be in that target of a young mindset, we get concerned. And the good news is through our efforts in unconstructed bras, bralettes, sport bras, we're absolutely seeing a shift to a younger customer, which we view very positively. We're seeing some good signs of repeat. But the data around that, not as clear. The data around younger is very clear and very compelling.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you're making the changes, what progress have you seen in combining stores and direct? And what are the guideposts that we should look at going forward?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Dana, at a high level, and this might seem obvious, but it's important to maybe confirm the obvious. The integration of how we're presenting product to the customer, the integration of pricing and promotion, the interplay in terms of driving business online versus to store, all of that is happening much more naturally today than it was 6 or 12 months ago. And I wouldn't suggest from the comment that we've completely nailed that and we've completely figured it out and it's all perfect, it's not. But that coordination is more effective, more natural than it was 6, 12 months ago. And we'll make, from time to time, deliberate decisions about driving business one way or the other in terms of the channels, obviously, with the customer in mind through all of that. So I'd say we made good progress on that, but certainly, more to do.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
Stuart, I wanted to follow up on the Victoria's brand and the changes in promo strategy. I was wondering if, now that you're a few months in, you could talk about how much you think the shift in promotional strategy is weighing on your sort of core lingerie business. So from a comp perspective, what sort of order of magnitude drag it's been? It seems like it's probably been less of a drag than what you were initially thinking about when you talked to us after the first quarter. And as you contemplate your guidance for the full year, what sort of an overhang you think that is to Victoria's into the back half? To the degree that 3Q had more of a year-over-year comparison, is that even more amplified in the fourth quarter?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So we did drive a fair amount of volume in prior years, in 2015 and prior years, through that direct mail promotion that you're familiar with and that we've talked about. With that said, and again, as I think you appreciate and we've talked about on the call, we've been able to replace a lot of that volume through our targeted promotions, particularly as it relates to the sport bras and bralettes. The amount of direct mail volume that we're lapping is more significant in Q3 and Q4 in dollars than it was in the second quarter. But Q4, in relation to the total quarter, would be a little less than Q3. Separately, one way that we were able to drive a lot of volume, and were committed to and did drive a lot of volume in the second quarter, was clearance activity. We wanted to make sure that we ended the season clean, and particularly, as it relates to exited categories. And so that sales driver, if you will, or that source of sales that existed in the second quarter, we won't really have that opportunity in the third quarter. So able to replace some of the volume. Clearance was also a contributor in Q2. It does represent pressure in Q3 and Q4, but you should know that we're of a mindset that we're going to offset that volume, whether that's every month or every week, and the right people involved in those discussions, including Les and other leaders the business. We're working hard to replace that volume and do it in a way that's healthier for the brand and that drives trial and business in core categories.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez from Citigroup.
Paul Lejuez:
Stuart, can you maybe give us the puts and takes on the Victoria's Secret merchandise margin? How much did the fewer promotional offers help versus the clearance of swim hurt, and I guess, weakness on the beauty side hurt as well, if you might be able to help us out there.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Thanks, Paul. And in terms of the magnitude, the effect of clearance related to exits and just ensuring that we ended the spring season clean, that drag or that pressure, Paul, was the biggest impact of any of the impacts in the margin rate for Victoria's for the second quarter. The other pressure that we had -- the next biggest pressure would be related to beauty. And so as you know, we restaged what we referred to as the fantasies business last fall. We believe we improved the product quality a lot, the packaging and so on, a fair amount, which drove some increase in costs, which we were fine with. But as we've talked about previously, we needed to make some adjustment in pricing this spring to drive appropriate volume in that business. And so that combination of things, along with some use of beauty giveaways to drive business, bra business and other business, put pressure on the business. And then going the other way, which you mentioned, but not as significant as the 2 things I just called out, was the benefit of the cessation of the direct mail couponing and promotional offers. So those would be the main drivers.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick from the Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, 2 questions. One, on the exiting of the $525 million, I believe, Stuart, right, you're guiding for about 2 to 3 points of that headwind in the back half of the year. Just wondering if you've informed your view of what the first half of next year, what's the rest of that pressure look like, either is it in the Q1 or Q2. Just if you have any viewpoints on the $525 million. And then, I guess, outside of bralettes, can you talk about the core bra launch calendar? How do Les and Jan think about the biggest opportunities in the back half, particularly Q4, for the bra launch versus last year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So Brian, in terms the exits, there will be pressure in the first half of 2017. And we know what we sold in terms of business from those exited categories. And when we get closer to 2017, we'll probably get -- not probably, we'll get more specific about the calendarization of that. But I think what you know, and you've known us for a long time and we commented about this on the last call, we're going to work like heck and we're optimistic that we're going to replace that volume with growth in other categories. And so we're going to prove that. We're going to do that. But you should know that that's our mindset and we're taking specific actions to do that this fall. And certainly, we'll work to do that next spring. Does the math get harder next spring in terms the dollar impact of those exits? It does. But again, you should know that we'll be working hard to offset that volume. With respect to the bra launch calendar and key drivers of bra growth in holiday, a couple of thoughts. You mentioned Jan. Jan hasn't started yet. She starts in early September. But that doesn't mean that we don't have a plan. We do have a plan. But given competitive aspects, Brian, and so on, and I'm not trying to be, in any way, unhelpful, but we'll be close to the vest about our bra launch strategy for holiday, given where we are in the calendar. As helpful as I want to be to the competition, I'm not sure I want to be quite that helpful. So we'll keep that closer to the vest.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Simeon Siegel from Nomura Securities.
Simeon Siegel:
Stuart, just a follow-up on an earlier question. Just given how much Victoria's Secret sales beat the initial guide this quarter, can you contextualize the beat maybe versus the original expectations? Did the promo reduction or category eliminations have less of an initial impact? How much did that extra clearance activity add to the guide? And then just maybe the corollary, are there any similar variables with the initiatives that could come up over the next few quarters that might impact your guidance?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Simeon, thanks for the question. Two things. One, the clearance activity did drive a lot of volume in the second quarter, and some of that was hard to estimate as we entered the quarter. But what we were very clear-minded about is how we wanted to end the quarter with respect to our inventory position. And that was dynamic within the quarter. But headline answer to your question, some upside related to clearance. And then I would -- the second thought I would register, I'm being repetitive, but it's a theme through the dialogue, is that we drove some good volume in some of these emerging trends in the bra business. So the bralette business and the sport business were very healthy for us and good growth in the second quarter. And the panty business, we've got some good results there as well. So that's what I would call out. And PINK continued to have a very nice business in the second quarter as well. But in terms of what was really different, I would say clearance very strong and some good growth in these emerging categories within bras.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer from MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
Great. One just quick follow-up on earlier comments on BBW. I'm wondering how you think about AUR as a lever in the second half, either through pricing or through mix. It's obviously been an important lever for you and a nice driver of comp over the past few years. And second, as you think about the bralettes driving a younger, more fashionable customer, how do you think about the potential for increased cannibalization with PINK? I mean, obviously, it doesn't seem like you've seen it, given the strength in PINK. But how do you think about that? Do you care if there's an increased overlap? And just how are you managing that?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne. We'll start with Andrew.
Andrew Meslow:
Roxanne, thanks for the question. To your observation, AUR has been a strong driver of growth in sales for Bath & Body Works, both for spring 2016 as well as for the past couple of years. And to your point, some of that is driven by mix in business. So as we've talked about, the home fragrance business has been our strongest growing category. And that is, in general, at higher retails relative to the balance of our assortment. So that certainly is a contributing factor. But then I would say the other maybe even more important factor is our ongoing, again, testing into how to get paid for investments that we continuously make into the product. So obviously, one of the key levers in terms of driving our business is constant innovation, constant investment into newness across all product lines in our business. And when we do that, we do extensive testing around our ability to command higher retails that go along with that. And that is an ongoing effort in our business, one that has proven to be successful again in our past and we would look to continue to be a driver in the future as well.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Roxanne, with respect to bralettes, we believe that, that business is highly incremental to the bra business. Nothing is ever perfectly incremental, but we believe it's highly incremental. With respect to how that category interacts or interplays with PINK, PINK has been in the bralette business for a long time and it has a very nice business there with good volume and good growth. We believe that the brand positioning and the customer segmentation in PINK vis-a-vis Victoria's is relatively clear to customers. And while there's always a little bit of interplay, we believe again that the segmentation, the positioning is pretty clear between the 2 businesses. So I feel good about it.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Susan Anderson from FBR Capital Markets.
Susan Anderson:
I had another question on BBW as it relates to White Barn. So I guess, when you have a shop-in-shop, I'm just wondering, are the products performing similar to the BBW products? Or are there any differences in performance or price points? And then, also, do you think this is an additional purchase the customer is making? Or is it something that they're making instead of a BBW product?
Andrew Meslow:
Susan, thanks for the question. So in terms of performance in the White Barn stores by category. Again, in general, the remodels that we do that include a remodel of both the Bath & Body Works portion of the store as well as any addition of the White Barn component, whether it's in the shop-in-shop or side-by-side format, is driving total performance of the overall box. And so we do see a lift in essentially all categories when we do one of those remodels. Under the covers, we do see a slightly higher growth rate in our home fragrance business associated with, again, that addition of a unique White Barn component. And so that is something that we do see as a result of that real estate strategy. In terms of different products or new products in those stores, again, there are more home decor aspects in the White Barn portion of those stores, but that is not a larger material portion of the overall performance of those stores. On your question of whether or not we're seeing that as an incremental purchase, we are absolutely seeing incrementality across all of the aspects of those remodel activities in terms of driving sales across all categories. So yes, we would definitely categorize that as incremental.
Nicholas Coe:
It's Nick. I think the only thing I would add to what Andrew is talking about is, there's also 2 other components to it from a customer perspective. There is an acquisition side of it as we see new customers coming into the brand. But there's also a renewal aspect of it as customers get reintroduced to Bath & Body Works as both sides of the store or both front and back of the store are completely remodeled. So we have additional benefit from that, too.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
So can you just talk a little bit about the positioning of sport in the marketplace today for you guys? How has it been performing versus maybe your internal expectations? And then just with catalog costs now more in the rearview mirror, not as much pressuring buying and occupancy, what's the best comp to think about needed to leverage B&O for 4Q? And then where do you see that leverage point going next year and beyond?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So with respect to the sport business and how we're doing and what's our assessment, it's obviously an important category in the bra business. We think we're well positioned today, generating very significant -- very substantial growth. But we're working hard to accelerate that growth, and frankly, increase our position and our dominance in that space. And so you're seeing regular flow of new products. You're seeing relatively sharp price points. You're seeing promotion targeted to sport, and we're getting good results. So we would grade our paper pretty well for the second quarter, with high ambition for the fall season in terms of growth of sport, and particularly sport bras. In terms of the comp needed for -- to leverage buying and occupancy, given the benefit of the catalog lap there, low single digit would be the breakpoint, if you will, to get B&O leverage within gross margin net of the benefit of the catalog elimination.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of John Morris from BMO Capital.
John Morris:
Question, I think, for Andrew, or if Nick wants to weigh in. Wanted to talk -- great operating margins, and we've talked a lot about the upside, the potential. A little bit of narrower gross margin expansion this quarter. And besides some of the things you talked about, I'm wondering if that's entirely due to the remodel program or mostly. Maybe give us a feel for what to expect there going forward.
Andrew Meslow:
John, thanks. As you saw in our prepared remarks, obviously, buying and occupancy is a growing expense associated with all the real estate remodel activity that we spent some time discussing today. And if you're looking at the difference between second quarter 2016 versus first quarter 2016, it is that growth in buying and occupancy costs that was the driver of slightly lower total operating income growth in Q2 versus what we experienced in Q1. And then when we look on a go-forward basis, that buying and occupancy growth we do expect to continue, not only in the back half of 2016, but frankly, into 2017, as again, we continue on this initiative. As I've mentioned earlier on the call, we obviously are seeing very good results associated with the real estate remodel strategy in general. And so we remain very committed to those investments. But it does have the headwind, obviously, of that buying and occupancy growth.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
John, the only other thing I would just add, just even at kind of a higher level and we've talked about it and it's an additional view, is that Bath & Body Works' operating income rate is very high. And what we're looking to do is reinvest in that business for the long-term health of that business and to accelerate growth. And whether that's through the investment in real estate that Andrew and Nick have remarked about or other things, we want to balance operating income rate with top line growth and dollar growth. And so the observation about the impact of real estate is there. But again, over a multiyear basis, it's a terrific business. We want to keep it a terrific business and accelerate growth. And so we're going to invest in the business, and we are.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Marni Shapiro from Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
I have to say your Victoria's Secret fall line, the new colors really do look beautiful. It's quite a change from what we've seen over the last couple of years, and I think it looks fantastic. Can you talk, Stuart, maybe a little bit about input costs, just where they've been trending, especially through the back half the year at VS and BBW? And can you update us on a couple of things, like wage costs and any pressures, any different pressures that you're seeing or an easing that you're seeing? And I know you pulled back the catalog, so any changes that we should expect to see in marketing at Victoria's Secret that you haven't talked about yet?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
There's a lot in that question, Marni, but that's okay. The most important point I want to register, frankly, in response to the question, and I mean this sincerely, but I think it's the most important thing for an investor to understand about us, is we're not trying to win by being the low-cost player. It's not what we do. And so you're asking about cost inputs. And I understand, I mean, we're a big company and we do pay attention to costs, whether it's about product costs or other cost inputs in our business. But what this management team is most focused on is delivering emotional content, great customer experiences, great store environments, great digital experiences, great interactions with store associates, et cetera, and we're willing to pay for that. And great product quality as well. So are there material changes in input costs related to merchandise fall '16 versus fall '15? I would say no. Are there some changes related to mix? Yes, sure. But in terms of year-on-year cost input related to merchandise, no significant changes. We got a great sourcing organization that does terrific work. But what they're most focused on is product quality and speed. They do manage cost, but no big changes. With respect to wage inflation, we are seeing that more in the United States, which is, at the end the day, probably a good thing. As you know from prior conversations we've had, we want to make sure that we're attracting and retaining terrific associates, whether it's at the store level, in our distribution centers, in our home office. And so we're not looking to be the low-cost player in those spaces either. We're looking to pay for terrific people, ensure that we're getting productivity from those people in terms of sales productivity in stores or other forms of productivity in other parts of our business. But in terms of cost pressures, the wage piece is affecting store selling. But as you again heard us talk about over time, we believe that through sales growth and other levers that can come from more productive store associates, we don't -- we believe that we shouldn't have, over time, significant deleverage in store selling costs. Lastly, you mentioned the catalog. We did cease producing the catalog this spring. A big cost in our business. I think, as part of that, you're asking, are there going to be changes in marketing at Victoria's Secret? There already have been and I'm sure there will continue to be more. And so -- and I don't mean that in an unsettling way, but that's just the dynamic aspect of our business. And we've made some good progress in marketing in the second quarter, but there will be more change in fall. And I'm sure there'll be more change in 2017.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Jeff Stein from Northcoast Research.
Jeffrey Stein:
Question for Stuart. First of all, Stuart, wondering if you could quantify the lift that the remodels at Bath & Body Works are having on the overall comp in Bath & Body Works. And secondly, wondering on Victoria's Secret, if you can just give us some idea what percent of their revenues in the second quarter compared to third quarter are on the type of promotions that we've been discussing, such as the $10-off coupon.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So when we remodel stores or most of our stores, Jeff, if we have a change in square footage, they're out of the comp base. So you may be asking about how does it contribute to sales growth. We are getting sales growth in those locations, as we've talked about, and we've provided some dimension of that last fall. And I would say, in general, results have been pretty consistent. But specifically, as it relates to comp, those stores often -- if there's an expansion in square footage of more than 20%, those stores are going out of the comp base. With respect to your second question, it was about the magnitude of volume that we're lapping Q3 versus...
Amie Preston:
I think the difference in direct mail Q2 versus Q3, how much...
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, the Q3 dollars and proportion to the base, if you will, are more significant in Q3 than they were in Q2.
Jeffrey Stein:
Can you -- any way you can kind of quantify the dimension of that?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, I want to be helpful, Jeff, but don't want to get too specific, to be honest with you. It's some increase Q3 versus Q2. But as you know, we're going to work hard to offset that volume.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Jeff. And that concludes our call this morning. We want to thank you for your continuing interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning, my name is Laurie, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2016 Conference Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' First Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, April 30, 2016. As you know, we released detailed commentary last night, which is available on our website. Given the shorter length of our call this morning, we will make some brief introductory comments in order to allocate more time to your question.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our first quarter earnings release, additional commentary and earnings presentation are all available on our website, lb.com. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. All results that we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the 2016 pretax charge of $34.5 million or $0.07 a share related to the actions at Victoria's Secret and the 2015 pretax gain of $78.1 million or $0.23 per share related to the sale of our remaining interest in the third-party apparel sourcing business. Thanks. And now I'll the turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Although we delivered first quarter results above our initial expectations, we were not satisfied with our overall results as adjusted operating income declined 4% compared to last year, primarily driven by a decline at Victoria's Secret.
We had a range of performance across the company in the first quarter with PINK and Bath & Body Works delivering strong results and weaker performance at Victoria's Secret Lingerie and Beauty. From a macro perspective, we did experience a deceleration in trend through the quarter, but we are focused on what we can control, and we have opportunities to improve our execution. It's important to note that we have made significant changes in the last couple of months at Victoria's Secret, making organizational and leadership changes, exiting merchandise categories, exiting nearly 300 people from the business and changing our promotional strategy. We're making these changes proactively from a position of strength and following a record fourth quarter and 2015 for the brand. Our revised outlook for 2016 reflects the impact of the actions at Victoria's Secret as well as incremental cost related to our plan to develop China as a company-owned business. Our brands are strong, and we're energized about our opportunities for growth. We will continue to leverage speed in the business and be flexible and agile in our approach in order to maximize profitability. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Stuart. So I think the only comments I would add from the notes that went out last night is, I've spent a fair amount of time in the stores over the course of the past few weeks, so I'll comment on those observations.
I think, firstly, we remain pleased with the traffic and the energy that we're seeing in the stores. Secondly, we appear to be keeping customers pretty engaged through the newness and the compelling stories that we're telling, which is really important for us when you think about the destination brands. So we really need to continue to keep her engaged. Thirdly, for the most part, pretty pleased with customers' response to products and assortments and our collections. I think we can do better, but pretty happy from that perspective. As it relates to speed, really pleased with our ability to have been able to leverage the speed model into our ability to chase in the home business, and that's been important for us, not only because it's the most difficult business to chase into, but also because it's still a very, very healthy business for us. We're pretty pleased in terms of what we're seeing from the real estate investments and the type of return that we're getting there. So again, we're relatively pleased with what's happening then we'll continue to monitor that and read and react as we would. And then, finally, as we see the marketplace remains pretty dynamic, we'll continue to leverage our most important discipline, which is really the notion of staying as close as we can to the customer and then reading and reacting to her behavior. I'll turn it over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick. Good morning, everybody. As you would expect, I've been spending quite a lot of time in China recently, which we will now pursue as company-owned. Although there's still much to do, I'm really enthused about the teams that we put together for China and the progress that we've made in readiness for the launch of our full assortment stores at the end of this year and also, our direct-to-consumer business, which we'll open later this year in China.
I'm also very focused on growing our existing businesses in the U.K., which have been good, and in the Middle East, which have been tough recently as well as on improving performance in the VSBA business. All in all, I feel good about our prospects for growth and of course, remain focused on the fundamentals, which is all of that great execution of our brands wherever we go in the world. Amie?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments this morning. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions]
And Laurie, I'll turn it back over to you.
Operator:
Your first question comes from the line of Matthew Boss of JPMorgan.
Christina Brathwaite:
It's Christina Brathwaite on for Matt. Thanks for taking our question. Just with the goal of replacing the swim and athletic apparel merchandise, can you just walk through some of the puts and takes of exiting those businesses on this year? And then any kind of this [ph] pressure that you're expecting in the SG&A reduction will be helpful.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Christina. We'll go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. I mean, the rationale, first of all, for the category exits is to focus our energy at all levels of the business, our resources at all levels of the business on our most significant core categories, bras, panties, beauty in the Victoria's Secret business. And we made a conclusion -- came to a conclusion that this one business was not one of those core categories that had been a flattish business for the last several years, many years. And we're putting our energy against those core categories to accelerate growth in bras, panties and beauty. It is going to put some pressure on the business, along with some of the promotional changes that we're making, less direct mail couponing, et cetera. But as you outlined in your question, we have some expense savings that we've actioned as well including the elimination of the catalog spend and a meaningful reduction in our home, office overhead, which, in part, offsets the sales and profit pressure from the category exits and the impact of the promotional changes that we're implementing. But at the end of the day, as outlined in our commentary that we sent out last night and the brief remarks we made this morning, we're making these changes from a position of strength to accelerate growth in these core categories. And there'll be some short-term financial pressure, as outlined in our guidance, both for Q2 and the full year. But we'll then work hard to beat that guidance, as you would imagine, and we're absolutely confident that these changes are the right thing to do for the long-term health of Victoria's Secret, and again, to accelerate growth in that business.
Amie Preston:
And Christina, I just want to clarify something in your question. You'd said that we were exiting athletic apparel. That's actually -- what we are exiting is apparel that we are now selling in the direct channel that is not carried in the stores. So it's things like t-shirts, sweaters, boots, for example. So we're still very focused on growing our sport and athletic business.
Christina Brathwaite:
Right, I misspoke. I think I was trying to say are you replacing the athletic apparel or building that -- or replacing it with more additional athletic apparel?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, again, we're not exiting athletic apparel. Just to be clear, we're not exiting athletic apparel. Believe strongly in the sport category. Our primary focus in that category is in sport bras, but we sell a lot of sport pants and related sport merchandise. And we have strong belief in that category, and we're realizing good sales growth in that business. So we're exiting nonathletic, nonathletic apparel in Victoria's Secret Direct that's not carried in the store.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick of RBC Capital Markets.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, 2 questions. One, I guess, Stuart, do you view 2016 being the resetting year? Or do you think there's potential, more pressure in 2017? I guess, do you think you can grow earnings again next year? And then the second question really is on the expected traffic impact on pulling back from these promos. You've mentioned macro a lot in the script. And just wondering what's going on in the core lingerie business, yet you feel confident you can pull back on some of these promos and still drive improving comps.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Brian, I appreciate you asking the question about kind of is 2016 a reset year and then how do we think about 2017. One of the things I love about working for our company and Les' point of view most significantly, but the leadership team, our point of view, is that while we've reset guidance and I'm not altering that guidance in mindset, this isn't a reset year at all. So we're going to have some challenge in the near term, and we've done our best to outline that in our guidance. But I'll tell you, starting at the top and with some acknowledgment of short-term pressure, we're going to work very hard to exceed that guidance and in no way do we have in our mind that 2016 is a kind of a reset year with no growth. Again, the guidance is the guidance. But you should know and known us for a long time, our mindset is we're going to work very hard to drive great experiences for customers, very strong sales growth and resulting profit growth. So I'm glad you asked the question. And obviously, from that, expecting a very good 2016 after some short-term pressure. Again, the guidance is the guidance. And then certainly expect a very, very good 2017. So good question. With respect, Brian, to the traffic generated from direct mail couponing, we're working hard to replace that volume and that profit. And again, we're doing it for reasons that I think you appreciate from our earlier remarks in terms of doing promotion that drives trial in key categories. And at the end of the day is healthier, we believe, for the business. But in the short term, it's challenged, but we're doing a lot of things in terms of tests and rolling different ideas to ensure that we have healthy traffic and good sales results. And that will be a week-to-week, month-to-month exercise, but it's being very actively worked on Mondays and Tuesdays every week and with good test and learning and adjustment. Again, another thing I really enjoy about the company and respect about the company is that we test, we read, we react, we are agile in our thinking and in our execution. And it's more dynamic right now than typical, no doubt about that. But I'm confident that we'll read and react and adjust appropriately.
Operator:
Your next question is from Richard Jaffe of Stifel, Nicolaus.
Richard Jaffe:
I guess, a 2-part question. The lost sales you described of $525 million, could you just give us a sense of how that will break out apparel and shoes from the direct channel and the swimwear from both direct and stores? So the impact on stores versus direct. And then if you could just comment on how this is different from 2014 when you consolidated the store with the catalog and eliminated a number of merchandise categories at that time.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So the biggest component of that, Richard, thanks for the question, is the swim business, and it distorts or mixes higher to the direct channel versus the stores channel. The apparel that we're exiting that we've commented on already on the call that was solely indirect and the swim business was larger in the direct channel than in the store channel. I'm not going to go deep on numbers. But directionally, that would be the way to think about it and that's how it frames. Was there a second part to his question?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, how it's different from 2014.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thank you. So what's different about this versus the earlier exits, Richard, is that truly now, with these changes, we will only sell merchandise in the direct channel that's sold in the store. And while we made important exits as we all remember earlier, we still had merchandise styles and categories that were sold online that weren't sold in the store. And with this set of changes, the offering will be truly the same online as it is in stores. And part of that, frankly, is to drive -- to take out complexity and simplify the business and focus the business, but that's how I'd characterize it.
Operator:
Your next question is from Kimberly Greenberger of Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, my question is on inventory. Here at the end of the third quarter, I think you said it's up 3% at retail. And I think you guided mid-single-digit growth at the end of Q2. It seems a touch higher than your inventory's been running. I'm wondering if you can comment, are there some pockets of excess inventory here in the first half of the year that you think you need to work through in second half. And sort of medium to longer-term, what sort of inventory growth rate do you think is appropriate for the business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So our thinking about inventory and inventory discipline hasn't changed, and I'm not saying that because it's convenient. It just hasn't changed. With that said, we are experiencing some short-term sales pressure for the reasons described in the context of sales. So Kimberly, it's going to be up mid-single as we outlined. In terms of any significant pockets of inventory that we're concerned about, I'm not -- we're not. And we're very focused on ending the spring season clean and at the right levels, and that's requiring some pretty intensive energy right now. But it's a discipline, it's very important to us. And while mid-single is a little ahead of sales, certainly not dramatically ahead of sales, and we're working it actively to get to that result. But again, not intending to have any significant pockets of inventory in the business that we won't have dealt with through the semiannual sale activity as we wrap up this spring season.
Operator:
You next question is from Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
As you think about Victoria's Secret business and the people and product changes, how do you think about the guidepost of how that business changes go forward, whether it's new product introductions, how are you thinking about integrating loyalty? And what does this mean for the long-term top line growth of the business?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, I mean, Dana, it's a risk of being repetitious, which certainly not intending to be. We're making important changes to the business. So just again, to step back and -- in an effort to respond to your question, we think that reorganizing the business into 3 units
Operator:
Your next question is from Betty Chen of Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
I was wondering if you can talk a little bit about the thinking behind China, making it company-owned versus franchise and sort of the timing right now and kind of when we can expect some contribution from that business. I know that there's already been 26 stores.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Betty. We'll go to Martin for that.
Martin Waters:
Betty, thanks for the question. Yes, China is obviously a massively important market for us. We've been very engaged in the last 12 months with our partner there, who's done a terrific job. Really, they did a great job in standing up some 26 VSBA stores. But as we look forward and we think about the sheer scale and opportunity of the market and we combine that with the complexity, the intrinsic complexity that there is in China, particularly around regulatory affairs around how we build our stores, how we operate those stores. It seems to me that we're going to be doing most of the heavy lifting anyway. And it makes sense that we should be in it completely. So when can you expect that it should start to make a contribution? Well, the sales contribution will start at the very end of this year. From a profit point of view, I don't really know. Our experience in the U.K. is that it takes 2 to 3 years to get a business from the investment phase to the profitable phase, and it really depends on the amount of time that we take to build it. Our goal here is to be in it for the very long term rather than to take short-term gains. I hope that gives you some insight.
Betty Chen:
Martin, do you see that customer behaving any differently than you've seen in the U.S. or elsewhere?
Martin Waters:
Well, the business that we've got right now is the Beauty business, and that performs remarkably similarly to the rest of the Beauty business globally. One of the neat tricks about the VSBA business is that it's a replication model of what we do here, and the sales patterns that we see are very broadly similar everywhere. To the extent that lingerie will be different, well, we don't really know. We'll find out at the end of the year when we open the stores, and you'll be the first to know if you call me.
Operator:
Your next question is from Paul Trussell of Deutsche Bank.
Paul Trussell:
Just wanted to ask a question regarding the catalog. You mentioned that you have tested over the past year reducing the distribution. And maybe you can just give us a little bit more insight on the results of that test and thoughts overall around catalog impact. And then just secondly, with the sales guidance adjustment that was made to flattish comps, can you just speak more specifically about where that downtick occurred? Is this simply a slowdown expected across each of the banners equally? Or to what extent? Is this more of a beauty biz step-down, lingerie, et cetera?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Great. Okay. So with respect to catalog, we did test the elimination of catalog in 2 significant markets for a year and saw a relatively small to no impact on sales. And if one does simple math on it, you need to get a lot of sales or meaningful amount of sales to pay for the catalog. In round numbers, we were spending $125 million to $150 million a year on the catalog. And we ran it again for a year in 2 significant markets and didn't see a significant change in sales. Separately and I think importantly for the whole business, in the fourth quarter of 2015, we reduced our catalog activity by nominally 40%. And demand in the direct channel was up, if I remember right, about 15%. So both based on 2 markets that we tested in and significant reduction in activity in our fourth quarter last year for the whole business. It made us confident that while there might be some sales pressure, certainly from an operating income standpoint, meaning did it pay for itself, on an OI basis, we felt that this was an appropriate change to make in our business. Importantly, one of the things that we try to do is we say if we were starting this business today in current context 2016, would you start with one of your major ideas being a catalog, a paper-based catalog sent through the mail as one of your key, if not your key marketing activity for a global brand. And as we thought about it in that way, along with the numerical test and financial evaluation, very comfortable with the change that we've made. Separately, with respect to your second question on sales guidance and the reduction in comp guidance, I'm glad you asked. It's important to know that as we outlined in our overall remarks, that we have a range of performance in our business. So in terms of the sales reduction, we haven't changed our assumptions about Bath & Body Works at all. Bath & Body Works grew operating income 15% in the first quarter. There will be some occupancy pressure in that business in the latter half of the year in connection with the remodel activity for the White Barn and Bath & Body remodels, but Bath & Body is running a very good business. As we also outlined, the PINK business, very strong. So I wouldn't want outside analysts or investors to think that L Brands has a broad-based concern about sales trends. We actually have important parts of our business, most notably, Bath & Body Works and PINK that are doing very, very well. And we've got some pressure in other parts of our business in part due to changes that we're making in terms of category exits and reduction in promotional activity, but some weakness in the Beauty business that we've been experiencing now for some time. So a range of performance. Overall, yes, we've taken our numbers down, but it's on -- it's due to very specific things and only certain portions of our business. Thank you.
Operator:
Your next question is from Anne-Charlotte Windal of SC Bernstein.
Anne-Charlotte Windal:
Two questions, if I may. So the first one is a big picture question. So taking a long-term view, what does the VS business look like in 5 years down the road? So what's the contribution from PINK, lingerie, beauty, sports? And where would you like this business to be in terms of operating margin? And then I was wondering if you could also give us a little bit more detail on the impact from the category exits. So if you could help us think through the seasonality of this $525 million business that you're exiting, what's the cadence of the exit and the expected impact to the other comp in the back half of this year and then for fiscal '17 as well?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Okay. So in terms of what the Victoria's Secret business looks like in aggregate and by major component 5 years from now, as a mindset and in terms of goals that we aspire to in our business in many periods we accomplished, we're looking to grow the top line sales in major parts of our business in -- on the low side at 5% per year and on the high side, when we're really doing well, 10% or 15% per year. So in terms of what are we trying to get done top line-wise over the next 5 years, it would be growth ranging from 5% to 15%, depending upon category and frankly, how well we execute. In terms of the operating income rate for the Victoria's Secret business, this is one of the best brands in the world. And from that brand, equity, emotional content, leadership position, when we execute really well, we have pricing power. We deliver emotion, great customer experiences, differentiated from competition, and that creates pricing power, which ultimately creates productivity and margin. And so with that belief and we've got to work hard to continue that leadership position, we believe the operating income rate for Victoria's Secret should absolutely be high-teens, if not 20% when we think about our own history and the best in the world. So hopefully that gives you some sense of our thinking and what our goals are over the next 5 years. In terms of the exits and their seasonality, the -- we will sell through the swim that we have at the swimsuit business that we have in stores in the spring season. And to the extent that we have some swim inventory remaining after spring, we'll sell that through the fall season 2016 in the direct channel. That's our current thinking and our current plan. With respect to the apparel exit, again, that's mostly or totally, I should say, in the direct channel. And we'll sell that both in the spring season and to some extent, into the fall season. So we're looking to, particularly in the store side of the business, move through the inventory. This is about swim at pretty reasonable pace to simplify store level execution. And frankly, to free up space for other categories, like core bras and sport and other things, but we won't be as urgent with respect to the swim and non-go-forward apparel exit indirect because it doesn't create the same kind of complexity from an operational standpoint in that channel. So in terms of dollarizing that by quarter, it's going to be more dynamic. But hopefully, that's helpful to you in an overall modeling sense.
Operator:
Your next question is from Lorraine Hutchinson of Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Stuart, the comments around the catalog testing were very helpful. Can you provide any color around what you've done to test-cutting the promotional cadence and what results you've seen there? And then what portion of the $525 million of discontinued categories will hit revenue this year versus next?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, with respect to the change in promotion and testing of that, we have pretty reasonable measurement of attached sales and the view of incremental sales related to our historic promotions. Meaning, we have pretty good analytics around what we got from that activity historically. And what we're doing now, as I think you appreciate is, we're looking to replace that activity, which was -- we call that customer relationship management. What it really was, was couponing through the mail in many respects. And we're looking to substitute that with various category level promotions in particular that drive trial of key categories. That activity and the results from that new activity are being evaluated every week. And so that will be dynamic. And while the nature of the offers that we utilize through direct mail, which most typically were a free panty and $10 off a bra, we've concluded that, A, we've been running that for a long time; B, a lot of customers came in and got their free panty and didn't buy anything else. And so we think there's a clever way, a smarter way to drive traffic, that's more healthy for the brand. The details of that are being literally worked every week, including test of key promotional ideas in the business. So hopefully, that gives you some sense of it. It would be easy to return to the prior approach, and we know what it's worth. So we have a pretty good sense of what it's worth. What's important here is we're making important changes in the promotional approach to the business for the long-term health of the business. It wouldn't be hard to turn that stuff back on in our collective judgment. The right thing to do for this business is to have smarter ideas about driving trial and driving traffic versus get a free panty and $10 off a bra.
Amie Preston:
And Lorraine, I'll try to help a little bit with that $525 million of exited sales. So I'd say this is very big picture, high level, but about 2/3 of that is swim and the remainder is apparel. As you can expect, we typically sell most of our swim business in the first half of the year, and we still have that product that we're selling through this year. So that impact will be more fully felt in 2017. The apparel business, we're winding that down through this year. So we'll see some of that impact in the back half of this year and then the remainder in the first half of next year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
And Amie's outlining it particularly on a sales standpoint. There will be some margin pressure in 2016, and it's contemplated in our guidance. So margin pressure in '16 -- margin rate pressure related to the exit activity that we're talking about.
Operator:
Your next question is from Omar Saad of Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
I was hoping maybe you could dive into a little bit more detail around the Victoria's Secret Lingerie category. What's going on there, especially in bras? I'm wondering if you could specifically maybe address the Bralette trend. Is that something that's significant? Lower price point, but maybe higher units. Any greater details around the category outside of the macro would be helpful and where you think the opportunity to improve it is.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Omar, thanks. So first of all, our total bra business, Lingerie, PINK and sport, store and direct, grew in the first quarter. So in aggregate, all types of bras across both channels had positive sales growth, high-low single digits in the first quarter. There are clearly some trends in the business, including the Bralette trend that you mentioned, and I think it's well-known and being well covered. And we're participating in that trend in a big way, as you would expect a market leader or the market leader to do. And frankly, that's -- there's nothing new about that. We're in a business that has different fashion trends from time to time. And hopefully, in most cases, we're leading those trends or certainly taking good advantage of those trends in things like sport bras or Bralettes, we think we're participating well with respect to those trends. So again, total bra business, including PINK, up. Certainly, some changes in trend that you comment on, that we're participating in. And we're working -- we're not satisfied with a bra business that -- we want it to grow faster than that and particularly, in the core Lingerie part of it. And it's not a sick business, but it's not growing at the rate we want. And it's so core to this business that, it's in part, why we're making some of the organizational and leadership changes that we've talked about.
Operator:
Your next question is from Anna Andreeva of Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
I guess, a question to Stuart on SG&A, an increase in the guidance for the year from previous, for flat. I guess, help us reconcile that despite the additional savings from catalogs and headcount reductions. And should we expect additional SG&A opportunity into '17?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. The SG&A guidance is expressed on a rate basis, on a percent of sales basis. And what you're noticing in the change is the effect of us lowering our sales assumptions. So on a dollar basis, not a meaningful change from the view that we had roundly 3 months ago. We will continue to mine for expense opportunities. As we've outlined, we've reduced the home office at Victoria's Secret in a meaningful way. By the way, a tough thing to do as a business leader and as business people. But from time to time, we make difficult decisions for the long-term health of the business. That would be an example of one of them. But we'll continue to be tough-minded about expenses. And again, the change you're seeing in the guidance is largely about a change in sales assumption versus the change in expense assumptions.
Amie Preston:
And Anna, just to clarify one thing in your question. So catalog costs actually are in buying and occupancy. And therefore, you wouldn't see that as a reduction to SG&A.
Operator:
Your next question is from Lindsay Drucker Mann of Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
I wanted to clarify to the degree that you've decided to get rid of a bunch of different types of promotions and then we'll figure out other better high-quality ways to engage the consumer going forward. With the elimination of those specific promotions, did that happen completely in May? Or as we think about balance of year, is there maybe sort of a gradual step forward process where the headwind from reduced promos intensifies as we get deeper into the year? And then maybe just to tack on a second one on a different angle. Just given your high-level view of the world, I was hoping, Stuart, maybe you could put some perspective on what you think might be going on with the consumer right now.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So with respect to the promotional changes and particularly the direct mail promotions that we've changed, we came to a conclusion about that or a decision about that in late March, which we implemented beginning in April. But as you would appreciate, Lindsay, the specific activity that we're lapping or anniversary-ing from last year varies by month, and there's a meaningful amount of activity in May of 2015 that we're lapping. And again, it does vary some by month. So didn't see a lot of -- saw some, but not a lot of impact in April. We'll see more in May. The other thing going on with May is there is the Memorial Day shift that affects comp. We think between 1 and 2 points as well. But that's -- that would be the color on the timing of our decision around the direct mail pullback. And again, the impact will vary some by month. And then with respect to a big picture view of the consumer, Nick could comment on that from Bath & Body, and his accent's better than mine. So let's listen to him for a while.
Nicholas Coe:
I think she's behaving pretty consistently, actually, in an odd way. I think she continues to want to be excited. I think she continues to want to have a story or a compelling story told to her even though she remains value oriented. But if she sees something that she likes or if she's engaged, clearly, that value price fluctuates, and we can see it in both ways. We see it fluctuates. It's really important when a compelling story isn't told, but we can also see it become significantly less important when the product is good. So from that perspective, I think it's actually pretty consistent behavior. There's a lot of talk about where is the customer, what's she doing. But from that perspective, I think it's a pretty consistent story, and I think that also ties itself to traffic where we've been -- we've seen pretty consistent levels of traffic. Now we're having to work very hard to maintain the traffic, given the mall status. But my overall point of view is that the traffic is there. We're working hard to get it and have behaviors consistent. And at the end of the day when big periods happen, big time frames such as Mother's Day, she's still coming out and she still wants to participate. So kind of that's my overall point of view in terms of sort of the macro level, what's going on with the customer. And as...
Lindsay Mann:
Do you observe any differences -- I was going to say do you observe any differences by region or mall type?
Nicholas Coe:
No, not dramatic differences. It's very difficult by region because regions come up, regions go down, regions come up. On aggregate, that seems to be about okay. Obviously, some malls are better than other malls. And we have a very broad mix because we're not just in core malls, we're also in strips, power centers. Sometimes we see a mix, a different mix as it relates to product by mall. But in general, we've been pleased with relative consistency.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Lindsay, just to add on, it really goes with a point we're trying to make, which is we had a wide range of performance in our business. So Bath & Body had a very good quarter with all metrics, all measures. PINK had a very good quarter in business. And so we're not sensing some broad-based issue, but rather specific execution opportunities which we're proactively getting after. But we're not of a mind that there's some major macro phenomenon going on that's impacting all of our businesses because we had a wide range of performance including some very good in the quarter.
Amie Preston:
So thanks, Lindsay. We have a board meeting, unfortunately, that is starting. And I apologize, we're going to leave many of you probably in the queue, but we will take one last question.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Michael Binetti from UBS.
Michael Binetti:
Just 2 questions really quickly on the guidance. Can you help me think about a few of the changes, particularly the -- it looks like it's about a low-teens reduction in the free cash flow for the year, the CapEx didn't change. We can -- I think back into the net income, it looks like the change is based mostly on net income. Is that fair? Is there anything to think about related to working capital? Any change in the working capital profile of some of the new businesses that you're getting into?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Short answer is no, no major changes. The change in free cash flow estimate, which again remains very healthy, is related to the adjustment in the income.
Michael Binetti:
And then can you just give me one thought on -- you mentioned that you're only going to be selling in store -- online what's being sold in stores. And that's a little bit different then what some of the other retailers in this space have been saying. It seems like it's been more liberating for other people to say we can offer a wider array of product online than we do in stores. Do you have any thoughts around what's might be different for your business versus what we've heard in some other areas in the sector?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, we just believe that focus is so fundamental to what we do. It starts with the beginning of this business more than 50 years ago, which is as a specialty retailer being extraordinarily good at a very few things. And while it's tempting, and we were tempted by it that you can sell a lot of things online and you can do so, in some respects, "more efficiently" than in stores, we believe that the power and advantage of focus and the consistency between channels, far outweighs the increment that you pick up by adding categories online.
Amie Preston:
Yes. And Nick, any thoughts there?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, Michael, I think, at the end the day, what we're trying to really achieve is a very seamless customer experience, so that the brand stands for the same thing whether you're in a store or whether you're online. And the benefits that we get from that are not just from a brand perspective, but the alignment of same product, same price, same [indiscernible], same cadence. Messaging really drives terrific efficiency and it doesn't confuse the customer. So I think it's a win-win on both sides when we get very, very good alignment of both the marketing message, the brand message and the product message.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, everyone, for joining us this morning, and we appreciate your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Sean, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Fourth Quarter 2015 Earnings Call. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' fourth quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, January 30, 2016. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our fourth quarter earnings release and related financial information, including any non-GAAP or adjusted financial reconciliation tables, are available on our website, lb.com.
Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call is being taped and can be replayed by dialing 1-866-NEWS-LTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President, International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we will be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] All results that we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the first quarter 2015 pretax gain of $78.1 million or $0.23 per share related to the sale of our remaining interest in the third-party apparel sourcing business. Thanks. And now I'll the turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. In an environment where a lot of retailers struggled, we delivered a record year and fourth quarter across all key metrics
While we manage the business conservatively, we utilize speed to chase back into what was working and maximize our opportunities. We improved our full year operating margin by 90 basis points to 18% and we grew operating income dollars by 12%. We also continue to return substantial value to shareholders. We increased our annual dividend by 20% to $2.40 per share. We declared a special dividend of $2 per share and authorized a new 500 million share repurchase program. Looking ahead to 2016, we're optimistic and confident in our opportunities for growth. As you know, we manage the business conservatively with respect to inventory and expenses to protect against any potential downside. Reflecting this mindset, the high end of our full year guidance implies a conservative view at mid-single-digit percentage growth in operating income dollars and a decline in the operating income rate. We would not be satisfied with that outcome, and we will continue to leverage speed to chase back into what's working and deliver upside to our forecast. We remain committed to our goal of 10% or better annual growth and operating income dollars and an operating income rate in the high-teens. Looking at the fourth quarter performance in more detail, as described on Page 4 of the presentation. Net sales for the quarter increased 8% to $4.395 billion and comps increased 6% on top of 6% last year. The gross margin rate increased 50 basis points to 45.6%, driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate and buying and occupancy expense leverage. SG&A expense leveraged by 60 basis points. The operating income rate increased by 100 basis points to 24.5% and operating income dollars increased 13% to $1.078 billion. The tax rate in the quarter of 35.2% provided $0.08 of upside to our initial guidance. Earnings per share increased 14% to $2.15 versus $1.89 last year. Foreign currency had a negative impact of about $0.05 to 2015 fourth quarter EPS. Turning to our full year results on Page 5. Adjusted earnings per share increased 14% to $3.99 versus $3.50 last year. FX negatively impacted full year 2015 results by about $0.13. Net sales increased 6% to $12.154 billion and comps increased 5% on top of 4% last year. The gross margin rate increased 80 basis points to 42.8%, primarily driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate. The SG&A rate leveraged by 10 basis points. Page 7 details our full year operating income results. Our full year operating income rate was 18%, up 90 basis points to last year. Operating income dollars increased $238.4 million or 12%, driven by growth in all 3 business segments. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 4% versus last year, down 6% on a 2-year basis. Inventories are clean and well positioned. We expect to end the first quarter with inventory per square-foot up in the mid-single-digit range. Operating cash flow in 2015 was $1.869 billion, free cash flow was $1.142 billion and capital expenditures were $727 million. We repurchased 5.5 million shares of stock in 2015 for $483 million. Our 2016 forecast, as detailed on Page 11, reflects actions we are taking to grow our business. Growth in Victoria's Secret, in Bath & Body Works real estate, including a new Victoria's Secret flagship store on Fifth Avenue. Increased store selling payroll driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience and investments in international expansion. It also reflects an estimated negative impact resulting from foreign currency exchange rates, incremental interest expense related to last October's note issuance and a higher tax rate. Our first quarter earnings forecast reflects a 2% to 4% comp increase, including an updated February comp of up mid-single digits at Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works. To be clear, the store-only comp is expected to be up mid-single digits at both Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works. The earlier Easter this year will negatively impact March comps and positively impact April. As noted in our press release, beginning with our February sales release, we will include direct sales with reported comps consistent with industry practice. We expect the first quarter gross margin rate to be down to last year driven by some decline in the merchandise margin rate, primarily driven by foreign exchange and buying and occupancy deleverage. We expect some deleverage in the SG&A rate driven primarily by an increase in store selling costs. We expect interest and other nonoperating expense in the first quarter to be about $100 million. We expect earnings per share between $0.50 and $0.55 in the first quarter against last year's $0.61 result. This forecast includes a total negative impact of about $0.08 related to foreign currency, incremental interest expense and preopening cost for the flagship Fifth Avenue Victoria's Secret store. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 1 to 2 points higher than comps due to growth in square footage. Foreign currency translation is expected to have a slight negative impact to total sales growth. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be down to last year, driven by a decline in the merchandise margin rate and buying and occupancy deleverage. The merchandise margin rate decline is driven primarily by the negative impact of foreign currency. Excluding this, we expect the merchandise margin rate to be about flat. We expect the full year SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. Nonoperating expenses, consisting principally of interest expense, are projected to be about $390 million, about $0.12 a share higher than last year. Before any discrete items, we estimate our tax rate will be approximately 37% versus 36.2% in 2015. The higher projected tax rate in 2016 will negatively impact EPS by about $0.05. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 292 million in the first quarter and the full year. The lower share count will benefit earnings per share year-over-year by about $0.08. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect earnings per share for the full year 2016 to be between $3.90 and $4.10. This estimate includes an estimated negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.10. We're projecting 2016 CapEx between $900 million and $1 billion. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 13 in the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in North America will increase by about 4% this year, driven by expansions of existing Victoria's Secret stores and 13 net new openings. Bath & Body Works square footage in North America will increase by about 5%, driven by 27 net new openings and 145 remodels. Total company square footage will increase by about 4%. Our increased investment in real estate will result in high single-digit percentage increase in buying and occupancy expense in 2016, about 3 points higher than growth in 2015. The Victoria's Secret Fifth Avenue store will drive incremental expense related to preopening cost of about $30 million. Bath & Body Works will also see more pressure from buying and occupancy cost as a result of our investment in Bath & Body Works and White Barn remodels. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2016 free cash flow of about $700 million to $800 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, result in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient under our working capital, capital expenditures, dividend and any other foreseeable needs. Turning to Victoria's Secret. I'd like to express our appreciation to Sharen for her leadership and all that she accomplished in her 16 years with the business. Victoria's Secret is well positioned for growth. We have a strong brand, great momentum and a highly talented team that is capable of leading the brand to continued success. Now turning to results. The Victoria's Secret segment had a strong fourth quarter, growing both sales and earnings to record levels. Total sales increased 9% to $2.6 billion and comps increased 5% on top of 4% last year. Operating income increased $84 million or 17% to $593.6 million, and our operating income rate increased 150 basis points to 22.7%. Our focus on reading and reacting with speed and agility positioned us to get back into trends more quickly and drove mid-teen growth in bras, high single-digit growth in panties and low 20s growth in PINK loungewear. Specific to the key holiday time period in the quarter, we delivered record results both Black Friday weekend and Cyber Monday. We continue to reposition our beauty category to be more consistent with the Victoria's Secret brand. Results for the business were down to last year as expected. Merchandise margin dollars for the segment increased versus last year driven by strength in both stores and direct. The rate was about flat to last year. We finished the quarter with inventory levels up to last year in line with expectations, driven by planned investments in PINK and additional beauty inventory to support the Fantasies restage. Now let's turn to the specific channel performance starting with stores. We are pleased with our fourth quarter performance as sales and operating income increased to record levels on top of record levels last year. Sales for the quarter increased 7% to $2 billion and comps increased 5% on top of 4% last year. We were pleased with the customer response to our holiday storytelling, which linked a consistent theme across all our customer touch points. We also added an incremental bra launch in December, which is successful in driving newness and holiday right product for gifting and self purchase. As a result, we had strong sales growth across our key businesses, bras, panties, sleepwear and PINK loungewear. Merchandise margin dollars also increased versus last year. Merchandise margin rate was about flat, as full-price selling strength in PINK was offset by a planned sport event in January, declines in beauty as we reposition this category and an unfavorable FX impact in our Canadian business. Both buying and occupancy and SG&A rates leveraged in the quarter as we remain focused on disciplined expense management. For the quarter, operating income dollars and rate both increased. Now turning to the direct channel. Strong performance during the holiday period drove record sales and operating income results in the direct channel. Fourth quarter sales increased 15% to $567 million, driven by strength across the assortment. Bras, panties, sleep, PINK and sport all experienced double-digit growth to last year. We fully anniversary-ed last year's exit from apparel during the fourth quarter. The merchandise margin rate in dollars were up to last year during the quarter as we continued to distort to the core. Operating income dollars and rate increased significantly driven by the sales increase, margin rate expansion and expense leverage. Turning to our full year results. Total Victoria's Secret segment sales increased 6% to $7.7 billion. Operating income increased by $119 million to $1.4 billion. And the operating income rate improved by 50 basis points to 18.1%. In the store channel, comps increased 5% with total store channel sales up 7%. Merchandise margin dollars increased versus last year with rate about flat. Total expenses leveraged versus last year. As a result, operating income dollars increased versus last year and the rate was about flat. In the direct channel, sales increased 3% as 16% growth in go-forward categories more than offset the exit of non-go-forward apparel sales last year. The merchandise margin rate increased driven by the category mix benefit from the apparel exit and expenses leveraged. As a result, operating income rate in dollars were up significantly. Looking ahead to 2016. We will plan the business conservatively while focusing on driving growth in our core categories and leveraging speed to read and react. We will continue to invest in real estate, store selling and digital enhancements to create an even better shopping experience for our customers. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were pleased with our record results during the quarter, building on record fourth quarter last year. We were able to drive solid growth in sales while improving margin rates and managing inventory levels down.
Total sales for the quarter were $1.5 billion, up 8% or $116 million to last year. Comps increased 6% and our direct channel sales grew by 24%. Sales were strong across the quarter, and we were able to drive growth in each of our 3 key businesses, our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business and bathroom fragrance assortment. Our concept of the Perfect Christmas resonated well with our customers, and we were pleased with the acceptance of our holiday assortment, the visual appeal of the stores and the in-store execution of our plans. The momentum from holiday continued with a solid semiannual sale performance that builds on last year's strong sales results. Promotional activity for the quarter was relatively flat to last year, and we were able to execute a plan that included fewer, but more impactful activities that generated a strong response from our customers. For the quarter, operating income was $487 million, up 8% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 10 basis points to 32.1%, driven mainly by an improvement in the merchandise margin rate, somewhat offset by increase in buying and occupancy expense as we continue our store investment program. Operating income for the quarter was negatively impacted by continued unfavorable foreign exchange pressure in our Canadian business. We continue to see strong performance in our BBW Direct channel. Fourth quarter operating income grew significantly versus last year, and annual sales were over $360 million. For fiscal 2015, total sales grew by 7% versus last year and comps increased 5%. Operating income was $858 million, up 16% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 190 basis points to 23.9%, driven by an improvement in the merchandise margin rate and expense leverage. Looking ahead to the first quarter of 2016. As you would expect, we will continue to monitor customer preferences and leverage the strength of our read-and-react capabilities, allowing us to put the right product for full-price selling in front of our customers at the right time. We will flow newness throughout the quarter beginning this month with our Let's go to Italy theme that features new and seasonal fragrances in our 3 key businesses. Our inventories are well positioned heading into the new year and are flexible enough to react to customer's preferences. We remain focused on making the appropriate investments in our business, including the necessary increases in occupancy costs in order to continue our White Barn and Bath & Body Works remodel and expansion program. We've been pleased with the results to date of our White Barn format. We ended 2015 with 67 of our stores in the format containing White Barn. Of the 27 net openings and 145 remodels that Stuart mentioned in his remarks, we will -- all will contain our White Barn concept either in the side-by-side or a shop-in-shop format. And with that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. We continue to be very confident about our opportunity for growth internationally. Our brands are well received wherever we open around the world, and our execution has been excellent. Our foundation is very solid.
We saw a strong growth in retail sales on a constant currency basis across all of our formats in the fourth quarter. However, not all of this growth translated into recognized revenue. Fourth quarter recognized revenue in the international segment increased by 6% and operating income declined by $1.4 million to $28 million. Foreign currency had about a 5 point impact on our recorded revenue growth and about a $3 million negative impact to operating income. We had very solid growth in both recognized revenue and operating income in our company-owned stores in the U.K., in our franchise full assortment stores and in our Bath & Body Works stores. However, the VSBA business experienced a significant decline in both revenue and operating income in the fourth quarter. This decline was primarily the result of foreign currency translation, softness in travel retail and tourism generally and a decline in shipments of beauty products in anticipation of the new Victoria's Secret Fantasies collection being launched in the spring. In the full year 2015, the international segment revenue increased by 15% to $385.2 million and operating income increased by 13% to $87.9 million. FX negatively impacted 2015 operating income by about $15 million. So absent the FX impact, operating income would have increased 32% and the rates would have increased by 200 basis points to 25.2%. We opened 144 new stores in 2015 to end the year with 531 stores in the international segment, and we plan to open about 175 stores in 2016. At Victoria's Secret International, we are pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. Our London flagship store on Bond Street as well as our 13 mall stores are operating very well, and we'll open another 5 stores in the U.K. this year. In the Middle East, we now have 16 Victoria's Secret full assortment stores and 3 PINK stores open under our partnership with Alshaya. These stores continue to do well and will open another 12 or so full assortment stores this year, including in new geographies such as China, Mexico, Singapore and earlier this month, in Russia. We'll also open about 5 more PINK stores. In the VSBA business, we ended the year with 373 locations, about 1/3 of which are in airports. We'll open another 90 or so across the globe in 2016. In Bath & Body Works, we now have 125 BBW stores under our franchise partnerships, and we continue to be very pleased with performance of these stores and expect to open another 65 or so BBW stores in the year ahead. So in summary, despite headwinds from foreign exchange, we made significant progress internationally in 2015, and we remain focused on the fundamentals, which is great execution of our brands wherever we go.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions]
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] And your first question comes from Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, my question is on the Q1 guidance and just looking out to 2016, can you just talk a little bit more if you have some direction on the amount of gross margin deleverage? How much of that is coming from preopening rent? And is the big change in preopening rent in 2016 primarily related to the Fifth Avenue store? Or are there other sort of chunky stores that are going to be working their way into the expense base through the year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. In terms of the gross margin decline particularly in Q1, the deleverage in buying and occupancy is more significant than the merchandise margin decline. Again, the merch margin decline is largely a function of foreign currency, but the B&O deleverage is the more significant component. And the preopening related to Fifth Avenue is the biggest driver of that. As Nick commented on, though, however, we are -- which we view as a very good thing, these investments are good, investing in remodeling Bath & Body Works and location including White Barn elements. So the B&O deleverage is the bigger part, to answer your question. The fact that we're building a global flagship on Fifth Avenue, we view as a very positive thing. And it certainly puts some short-term pressure in the P&L. But for our business, over the long term, it's a terrific thing. It's going to be a great store. And again, the opportunity to remodel Bath & Body and include White Barn in those remodels is also a very good thing, but it puts some short-term pressure on the P&L.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Wondering if the pressure is in full force in Q1 already or does the preopening expense sort of escalate through the year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It doesn't escalate through the year. And we expect that store to open in November, the Fifth Avenue store.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Lindsay Drucker Mann with Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
Stuart, I wanted to ask, you opened the call by talking about how you plan the business. You're planning the business for mid-single-digit underlying profit growth, but you wouldn't be satisfied with it. You look for 10% plus, you're committed to it. I was curious what the drivers of meeting those targets this year would be in light of some of the incremental expenses. Is it you have to do better on comps than you've planned? Or are there other tools in your toolkit?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, it's a great question. I mean, as you outlined the question, I mean, getting a sales result better than what's inherent in the forecast, is the most important thing at the end of the day. But we do have other tools in our toolkit. And while there are pressures, whether it's currency or other things, beauty at Victoria's, pressures on the merchandise margin line, we'll continue to leverage our speed tools and work to get some further improvement related to that in our big businesses. And we manage expenses in a tough-minded way. And we're clear minded about growing expenses in aggregates lower than sales. And some of those things we can adjust more quickly than others. But we're not looking to go backwards on our operating income rate, which is what would be implied by this guidance, I realize. But starting with Les and the other leaders in the business, we're not of a mindset where we go backwards on profit rate.
Lindsay Mann:
Great. And just to quickly follow up. In the past, when you had reporting changes, I'm thinking specifically when Canada moved into North America and away from being a separate entity, it actually reflected some internal changes in how you thought about the business, whereas before there were a wall between the 2, now they work together. At least that was my impression. Is the reporting of direct comps with store comps similarly a reflection of how you might be thinking about the businesses?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Not so much, to be honest with you, Lindsay. And this change got some good debate within the business and you may have heard me speak previously about some of our views on it. At the end of the day, we were the clear outlier in the industry. And folks, externally, we're trying to estimate what our comps would be with direct in it as everybody else in the industry does. So that's why we made the change. There's no signaling about the trend of our business. There's no significant change organizationally or how we think about the business. We've always thought about the business from a customer first standpoint. And this change in reporting is solely to follow the trend in the industry. We were the only one, as we could understand it, that was not including direct in comps, and that's why we made the change. There's nothing else, nothing else to interpret.
Operator:
And your next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I wanted to follow up on the beauty struggles that VS has been having. Can you just step back and diagnose what you think the problem was? What the fix looks like? And then how quickly might we see this flowing through the top line?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, beauty is an important category for us, as you appreciate, that's why you're asking about it. At the end of the day, it's a very good business. As you're aware, we've made changes to the product line that we call Fantasies, mists and body lotions and body creams. And we think we elevated the product to be more consistent with the emotional content of the Victoria's Secret brand. But there's more work to do to continue to elevate product at Victoria's Secret beauty and to ensure that we get the other elements of merchandising in line with that elevation, whether it's about how it's displayed in the store, how it's sold in the store, it's pricing. We'll be looking at all those things. We are looking at all those things. And we're very confident that we'll get it sorted out. But it's going to take a little bit of time.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Anne-Charlotte Windal with Bernstein.
Anne-Charlotte Windal:
A question for Nick on Bath & Body Works. So you are anniversary-ing a very strong year from a comp standpoint. So looking back to 2015, I mean, in hindsight, is there anything you could have done differently? And then looking at 2016, where are the growth opportunities?
Nicholas Coe:
The things we could have done differently in '15. Not to jump out immediately, I think we like the way the business performed. We liked our read-and-react capabilities. We were happy with being slightly less promotional, and the mix of the business was healthy. If I think about 2016, it's really going to be about trying to ensure that we continue to grow whilst taking into consideration the investments that we're making into real estate from both the White Barn and the Bath & Body Works perspectives that will, obviously, put some pressure into the business. So really -- and that is really about leveraging 2 things. One is the natural strength -- on the ongoing strength that we've had at the home business. And of course, the necessity to keep the fleets looking as good as possible. So that's really where our attention is going to be, is making sure that top line continues to perform well, so we can continue to afford the investments that we're making.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Omar Saad from Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Wanted to follow up on PINK. I think 4 new stores, stand-alone stores this year. I think you did somewhere in the teens last year. Are you learning something there? Or is it shifting more to the full assortment of PINK within the Victoria's Secret stores? Help me understand what's happening with that brand, that'd be helpful.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Omar, it's Stuart. I mean, the business is performing incredibly well. So let's just start with that. I mean, the merchandising sales growth, the margin results, the momentum in that business, the strength in that business is terrific. As I think we've been relatively clear about over time, the specifics on real estate are largely a function of what's going on mall by mall. Our views about expanding square footage for PINK haven't changed at all. Meaning, we believe that there's substantial sales growth and profit growth opportunity, adding more square footage for PINK, and we'll continue to do that through a combination of remodels and freestanding PINKs. But there will be year-to-year variation in the number of freestanding PINKs versus growth through remodels. That again is a function of mall-by-mall circumstances that are in front of us. So that's how we look at it. And the 2016 PINK freestanding new stores, it looks like we're, as you point out, we're going to open 5 and close 1 for a net of 4. But again, the square footage growth for PINK isn't changing in any material way. Very big growth opportunity for us.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Brian Tunick with RBC.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, question on the leadership transition at Vickies. Are there any other, not holes, but opportunities to focus on additional category growth or accelerate that, particularly on the VSX or on the swim side? And any thoughts on that perspective.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, Brian, this is Stuart. As it relates to leadership at Victoria's Secret, first of all, as I mentioned in the remarks, I mean, the business is in terrific shape, as you know. I mean, it's a great brand, coming off record results. And all that comes from a very talented leadership team at Victoria's Secret on the store side of the business, on the direct side of the business. And what that team is focused on is executing fundamentals really well in 2016 to deliver yet another record result. So are there significant holes per se or opportunities, we've got a very good team.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Howard Tubin with Guggenheim Securities.
Howard Tubin:
Can you guys just give us an idea what the launch cadence looks like or the newness factor looks like this year relative to last year at both of the divisions?
Amie Preston:
Yes. Thanks, Howard. We'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
It's kind of comparable to last year, really, in terms of the overarching both flow of how we think about how we're flowing merchandise and also probably around the level of newness that we anticipate. There's no major shifts as it relates to sell timing or launch period. There's probably an opportunity to think about how we performed in November, December Christmas time frame or the timing associated with the flow of that. But from a material change, nothing of a significant magnitude.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Howard, for Victoria's Secret, the launch cadence, number of launches will be the same, very consistent as compared to a year ago. Obviously, the specifics are different. We don't comment a lot about the details of what we're doing in advance. But in terms of overall approach and number of the launches, highly consistent.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Paul Lejuez with Citi Research.
Paul Lejuez:
Just curious if you could share maybe your thinking, in which product category do you feel you might have the greatest pricing power or perhaps opposite where you might need to be a little sharper on pricing. And then, just separate, Stuart, on the depreciation line, it looks like a pretty big increase in '16. Just curious if there's anything being accelerated that leads to that double-digit increase.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. So we'll start with Nick on the pricing question.
Nicholas Coe:
Paul, so we're constantly looking at pricing through the lens of both customer acceptance from a product perspective as well as what elasticity we think we have in both ticket prices, while there's promotional price. And as you know, over the course of the last couple of years, we've taken some ticket increases that we haven't had any barrier to. And I think our ongoing goal is always to think about how do we get paid for innovation that we put in, how do we get paid for the newness in a way that gets us to full-price selling. As it relates to whether we think we have power, I think in both our signature business as well as our home business, as we continue to see strength in it, there's obviously opportunity to look at how are we priced and is there an opportunity for either price-up or aggressive full-price selling. And that's typically part of the course in terms of how we actually think about running the business on a day-to-day basis. So price is obviously top of mind for us.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
As it relates to Victoria's Secret, I think it's generally true for the company. I mean, the pricing power starts with the power of the brand and the differentiation that we provide through the brand, through the store experience, through the merchandise. And I would say the balance point, as we think about it, is always being mindful of reinvesting in the product and being thoughtful about driving transactions in units versus rate. And I think the business, including at Victoria's Secret, works hard to strike that balance and has the range of pricing evaluations, including good/better/best pricing and so on. So I think we look at pricing carefully, the particular area that we're thinking about, I imagine a number of retailers are, as it relates to foreign exchange. How does one think about pricing? I don't have any specific comment on that. But you would appreciate that we're thinking about that. But the pricing power starts with the brand and runs with newness and speed, and we try to balance velocity and rate.
Amie Preston:
And depreciation, Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Oh, sorry. Depreciation is running with CapEx. So we're investing a lot in -- Thanks, Amie. We're investing a lot in the business, which we feel very positive and optimistic about. And the depreciation increases are really principally driven by the increased levels of capital spending in the business over the last few years.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Ike Boruchow with Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess my question would be on international, and I guess specifically, the VSBA. I think in the prepared remarks, you guys commented that the revenue and profit was down, and a lot of that was currency. But could you comment a little bit more, because you -- I mean, there's 100 more VSBAs than there were last year. I'm just kind of curious, if you ex out the currency and whatnot, the organic trend of that business and also, I think, in the guidance, you're planning to close 10 of them. I don't know if I've ever seen you guys put that out. And can you just give us more color on that? What areas are that? Are they the tourist-focused areas? Just kind of interested what's going on with VSBA.
Martin Waters:
Yes, thanks for the question, Ike. So just to dimension how VSBA fits into the segment as a whole, there are 4 businesses, reminder, there are 4 businesses within the international segment. So there's the Victoria's Secret full assortment owned stores in the U.K., the full assortment stores into the franchise business, the Bath & Body Works international business and the franchise arrangements, and there's VSBA. 3 of those 4 businesses have very strong year and very strong quarter. As you rightly point out, our problem in the segment was VSBA. And I'd say there are 3 drivers of that difficulty, as I said in the preprepared remarks, and they're about in equal measure. One is FX, which impacts both recognized revenue and operating income. The second is a general softness in travel retail, particularly people from Russia, from China and tourist destinations that are related to the Middle East and security pressures there have been affected. And I think the -- has been written about widely across the travel retail industry. And the third, which we absolutely own and would take responsibility for, is weakness in our Victoria's Secret beauty business, particularly related to the Fantasies relaunch. And that affected our business globally. To the questions about how we feel about the fundamentals of the business and store closures, we feel very, very good about VSBA. It's a very profitable business, has a lot of runway ahead of it. It tees up the brand internationally very well for us. And we will continue to increase our footprint in that business. The closures, and I think there will be maybe 10, we're guessing, we can see about 5 right now, and we're positioning that it may be up to 10, come from a number of things. One is, on occasion, we close the VSBA in order to replace it with a VSFA. So to put a big store where a small store was, that's good news. That's a really good thing. Second is the nature of travel retailers. These leases tend to be 3-year leases. So just by normal course of business, some of our stores that are 5 years old or more will be coming up for renewal. And other times they're just relocations. So there's nothing sinister in the closure numbers. We have a lot of confidence in the business and the foundations are strong.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Roxanne Meyer with MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is on speed at Victoria's Secret. I'm just wondering if you could give us an update as to where you are with speed. And are there certain categories which represent a disproportionate opportunity going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, at Victoria's Secret, PINK is, we would say, the fastest within the business. But with that said, speed has been leveraged in the lingerie business generally and in the beauty business. But Roxanne, in answer to your question, where is the biggest opportunity, it's on the beauty side of the business in terms of getting faster. And there's work happening to get after that opportunity. But PINK is very fast. Lingerie has made substantial progress and is also very fast, and inherently, a little more complicated given the more complicated construction of its bras and things like that versus the PINK assortment. So lingerie has also made very good progress. And to be clear, I think the biggest opportunity -- we think the biggest opportunity in speed at Victoria's is in the beauty side of the business.
Operator:
You next question comes from Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
I just had a question regarding digital sales. And a lot of retailers are able to achieve really leveraging their store network in terms of ship from store and pickup in store. There's been a real material mix this past year. So what do you think about that frontier in terms of where you may go? And is there interest from your customer? And if you could update us on how you are evolving in terms of your mobile presence. I know you've been kind of a pioneer on a long-term basis with your online business.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. We'll go to Stuart for that.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, on the click and collect and ship from store, I mean, the balance point, we're all aware, you're aware, we're aware of what others are doing. I think the balance point is -- and so there's opportunity there. But the balance point is how it sequences and prioritizes versus something like the selling initiative that we've got going on in our stores. And one of the things that we try to be very disciplined about is being focused in our business. And there's no doubt that there's opportunity in click and collect and driving more footsteps to the stores. But I think the balance point is, we also see very substantial opportunity in growing sales in stores through more effective selling. And so I think we'll get to those things over time. But we'll be thinking about how they relate to other things, we're trying to get done in stores and ensuring that we have great experiences for customers that are in our stores. I don't know, Nick, if you have anything to add from the Bath & Body perspective?
Nicholas Coe:
No, about the same.
Oliver Chen:
And on the mobile front, was there anything on mobile that we should know about?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Terrific, terrific business. We continue to make what I'll describe as continuous improvements to the technology for customers doing business using mobile devices. And I think, as is the case in the industry, we're seeing very substantial growth in our mobile business. And we're working hard to make various improvements. We've made some. We'll continue to make some to make sure that's a great experience for customers. Great, great part of the business, that's for sure.
Operator:
You next question comes from Amie Shapiro (sic) [Marni Shapiro] with The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
So I have a -- you've spent a lot of 2015, particularly in Bath & Body Works, but also at Victoria's Secret, tweaking the pricing on your promotions and it's worked very well. As we think forward into 2016, will you continue to do this? And has it helped to push up the AUR at the stores at all?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni. We'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Marni, yes and yes. So I think on an ongoing basis, whenever we can, we're very, very focused on, one, how do we maximize price point, but also, at the same time, look from the margin gains that come with that. And so we've seen a couple of things work well for us. We've been slightly less promotional overall, playing with the price points, and that has absolutely helped margin. But it's only been -- we've only really been able to do it because of product acceptance. So we think about how our #1 goal is really putting a product out that she likes and trying to get it to full price. And in certain businesses, we've seen a very, very good traction. So we're seeing AUR up, but we've also seen margin, obviously, margin rates come along with that. And if we can't get to that magic place of continuing to pull back less promotion, we know that, that's a brand equity building play for us.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Victoria's Secret thinks about it the same way, I mean, they really do. They've done working the space, they'll continue to do working the space, and Nick said it well, for any retail business, it starts with the quality of the product.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Dorothy Lakner with Topeka Capital.
Dorothy Lakner:
Just wanted to see if we could get an update on, in terms of Victoria's Secret, where you're moving the needle on getting the full assortment in more stores? I think you talked about there being about 800 that still did not have the full lingerie assortment. In PINK, I think, likewise. If you could just indicate where you think you'll be as you increase the square footage growth in the business this year, where you think you -- how much progress you'll make this year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. So we're going to remodel a lot of stores. And you've got the detail of that in the analyst package in terms of the number of reconstructions. And as you would expect, when we remodel those stores, we're looking to make the highest best use of that space. And so our activity has been significant over the last 3 to 5 years in terms of remodeling stores, and we've made progress. And we'll continue to make progress in 2016 with a lot of projects. We obviously wouldn't look to have the full assortment in all stores. So we'll use our business judgment about tiering assortments based on the venue and the sales potential. But we'll continue to make good progress in 2016 given the real estate activity we've got for Victoria's Secret in North America.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Mark Altschwager with Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
In the context of VS leadership changes, can you just talk about how you're thinking about the organizational structure there? And any areas of opportunity you see to potentially drive greater speed and agility within the organization? And then separately, just a quick follow-up for Martin. Appreciate all the additional color on the drivers of international performance, just any help on how we should be thinking about the growth rates and margin profile of that segment in 2016.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on Victoria's Secret leadership, Les has always been involved in the business. And as you would understand from our announcements, he'll be substantially more involved in the business. And as things develop in 2016, we'll be looking for ways to simplify and focus that organization. Do we have specifics? Absolutely not. Is that our mindset generally in our business? It is. But in terms of the detail of that, we've got a great leadership team. As I mentioned earlier, what we're most focused on are things that impact the customers. So merchandise and speed and doing things in stores and online well. But certainly, the business will look at ways to simplify and focus things as we move forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And Martin on...
Martin Waters:
Yes, I think in terms of growth on international, we're pretty transparent in the analyst pack on Page 15 about where the store growth will come from. If I help to interpret that, the biggest area of growth for us in 2016 will be in the full assortment business. So we will have our biggest year of store openings ever by some distance. And the complexity of that will increase significantly as we're opening in new markets with new partners that we haven't operated with before. So as I mentioned, we have Russia that already opened earlier this month. We have Mexico coming. We have China. We have Singapore. We're actively looking at real estate in lots of other geographies as well. So I think you'll see a real ramp-up in the full assortment store participation of the business. How you model for that, I recognize it's tricky. You've got 4 businesses and you've got 3 different models owned, royalty and wholesale. It's difficult to do. I would say, overall, you should expect our revenue growth to be below that of our store growth as the stores are skewed to smaller stores. And if it was around the 20%, I think that's where I would expect it to be.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Jeff Stein with Northcoast Research.
Jeffrey Stein:
A question regarding White Barn. I think mid-last year, when you had roughly 60 of these locations, if I recall, you were comping up around 25%. And I'm wondering if that -- did that trend continue through the end of the fiscal year? And do you think that's sustainable as you remodel the 140 plus for the current year?
Nicholas Coe:
So yes and yes. So we continue to like the trend of that business. Hence, as we mentioned, we're rolling obviously more of them out next year. Now I want to preface, obviously, that when you hear that kind of number, it's a range. We see a range of all sorts of performances on average. We very much like the performance that's happened, and they continue to be good. And so as we think about 2016, obviously, we've got more stores rolling and our #1 goal is to maintain the comp in the business period and then, obviously, the comp performance that we've seen in those White Barn stores primarily because of the investment that we've made. But yes, we like the results from last year. We like the results currently. And obviously, we'll do what we do really well, which is we'll read and react, and we'll monitor it. So we won't just continue to go blindly if things change. But so far, so good.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Richard Jaffe with Stifel.
Richard Jaffe:
A question about my favorite division, La Senza. You noticed or I noticed the expansion into the U.S. and wondering what's inspired the investment in La Senza and what we should look for in the U.S. in terms of product mix, differentiation from Vickie and especially the PINK business?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Richard. We'll go to Martin for that question.
Martin Waters:
Okay. Thanks, Richard. I'm glad it's your favorite segment. Mine, too. So we continue to make really good progress in La Senza. We've had a multi-quarter roller coaster comps. Very strong sales performance really driven by being faster to market, more fashion-right, and zeroing in on the customer with a young, sexy, obvious, value positioning. And that positioning is what really differentiates it from both PINK and from Victoria. And in markets around the world where we see the 3 lingerie brands present, we know that they trade effectively alongside each other. They appeal to different customers. And where they appeal to the same customer in different shopping modes and different moods, it's all good. So yes, we're excited to bring La Senza to the U.S. We'll open probably 5 stores in the fall. Our first store is opening in November. Not particularly material in terms of the CapEx as those stores are only 2,000 square feet in space, not particularly material in terms of preopening costs, but very significant in terms of the future growth opportunity that, that represents. We won't get too far ahead of ourselves in claiming victory. It's just a test, and we'll call it over the holiday period, and we'll report back in January. But certainly, very exciting progress for the brand.
Operator:
Your final question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
So with the direct business now having inflected to the positive side, what's the best way to think about leverage points in 2016 and then beyond, both on the buying and occupancy and then on the SG&A from a fixed cost comp hurdle?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, as we mentioned in our prepared remarks, occupancy will be growing at a faster rate in 2016. So as it relates to that part of our cost structure, the leverage point is higher. And then, as it relates to the direct business in terms of its overall impact on leverage points, not a significant effect. The biggest effect is our investment in real estate in 2016 and growing at a high single-digit rate above the growth rate from 2015.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart, and thanks, Matthew, and thanks to all of you for joining us today and for your continued interest in L Brands.
Operator:
And this concludes today's conference. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Kyle, and I'll be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the Q3 Earnings Conference Call. [Operator Instructions] Thank you. Ms. Preston, you may begin your conference.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' third quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, October 31, 2015. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our third quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, lb.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. The call is being taped and can be replayed by dialing 1-866-NEWS-LTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website.
Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today, and Sharen is joining us remotely. After our prepared comments, we will be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We delivered record third quarter results as we continued to deliver sales growth, merchandise margin rate improvement and sound inventory management. Earnings per share increased 25% to $0.55 versus $0.44 last year. Excluding the $0.04 negative impact from foreign exchange rates, earnings growth was 34%. As Les commented in our press release, our brands are differentiated and have high emotional content, and we can continue to deliver new, compelling merchandise in an exciting in-store experience. We remain focused on executing fundamentals and staying close to our customers. We are pleased with our month-to-date performance and we are well positioned for the most significant part of our year which is in front of us.
To take you through the third quarter results as detailed on Page 4 of the presentation. Net sales for the quarter increased 7% to $2.482 billion. And comps increased 7%. Foreign currency negatively impacted our sales growth by about 1 percentage point. The gross margin rate increased by 80 basis points to 41.6%, driven roughly by an improvement -- driven roughly equally by an improvement in the merchandise margin rate in buying and occupancy leverage. SG&A expenses leveraged by 70 basis points. Operating income dollars grew by 19%, and our operating income rate improved by 140 basis points. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 7% versus last year and down 6% on a 2-year basis. Inventories reflect some early receipts at the end of the quarter and are clean, and we are well positioned. We repurchased 751,000 shares of stock in the third quarter for $61 million. At quarter end, we had $137 million remaining under our current $250 million repurchase program. Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. Our forecast for 2015 reflects actions we are taking to grow our business. Growth in square footage increased store selling payroll driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience and investments in international expansion. It also reflects an estimated negative impact resulting from foreign currency exchange rates and a higher tax rate. Versus our previous forecast, our full year guidance reflects our third quarter peak, less the impact of incremental interest expense from our recent $1 billion 20-year note issuance of about $0.04. As a reminder, interest expense related to this debt will be about $69 million on an annual basis. Our fourth quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase. We expect a 2- to 3-point positive spread between comps and total sales. We expect the fourth quarter gross margin rate and SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. We expect fourth quarter net nonoperating expense consisting primarily of interest expense to be about $95 million, $18 million more than last year driven by the new debt. We expect earnings per share between $1.85 and $1.95 in the fourth quarter against last year's $1.89 result. This forecast includes a negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.05 and the incremental interest expense of about $0.04. A higher assumed effective tax rate is having a negative $0.05 impact. Adjusting for these factors, earnings per share growth at the high end of our range is about 10%. We expend -- expect to end the fourth quarter with inventory per square foot up mid single-digits to last year. For the full year, we are projecting positive low to mid-single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 1 point higher than comps due to growth in square footage and our international business. Foreign currency translation is expected to negatively impact sales growth by about a point. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be up and the SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. Net nonoperating expenses, consisting principally of interest expense, are projected to be about $335 million. Before any discrete items, we estimate our tax rate will be approximately 37.5% versus 36.3% in 2014. The higher projected tax rate in 2015 will negatively impact EPS by about $0.07. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 296 million in the fourth quarter and 297 million for the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2015 to be between $3.69 and $3.79. This estimate includes an estimated negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.12. We are projecting 2015 CapEx of about $800 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 12 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in North America will increase by about 4% this year, driven by expansions at existing Victoria's Secret stores and 26 net new openings. Bath & Body Works square footage in North America will increase by about 3%, driven by 26 net new openings and 83 remodels. Total company square footage will increase by between 3% and 4%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2015 free cash flow of between $750 million and $850 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, results in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividend and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. The Victoria's Secret segment grew both sales and earnings during the third quarter. Total sales increased 8% to $1.6 billion, and comps increased 7% on top of 3% last year. Operating income of $211 million was up $19 million or up 10% to last year.
Included in last year's results are approximately $36 million in apparel sales in the direct channel, which we have fully exited this year. Excluding this item, our segment sales growth would have been between 2 and 3 points higher. We began the quarter with successful Body by Victoria and Wear Everywhere Bra launches as well as a record back-to-school result in our PINK business. That strength continued throughout the quarter as customers responded to our newness and fashion, leading to double-digit growth in our bra, panty and loungewear categories. In regard to the Beauty business, we are in the process of a full repositioning of this category and remain committed to delivering an elevated Beauty business that is more consistent with the Victoria's Secret brand. Throughout this transition, we expect and are seeing Beauty results, which are down to last year. Merchandise margin dollars for the segment increased versus last year, driven by strength in both stores and direct. Rate was up slightly to last year. We finished the quarter with inventory levels up to last year, driven by planned strategic investments in PINK and increased Beauty inventory related to the fantasy's restage. Now let's turn to the specific channel performance starting with stores. Sales for the quarter increased 9% to $1.3 billion and comps increased 7% on top of 3% last year. Sales growth was driven by strength in bras and panties as well as PINK loungewear. Merchandise margin dollars increased versus last year. Margin rate declined, driven by planned promotional activity, including our Angel Card reissue and unfavorable FX impact in our Canadian business. Additionally, lower Beauty sales led to an unfavorable mix impact. Total expenses levered slightly versus last year as an improvement in the buying and occupancy rate, which partially offset by deleverage in SG&A, driven by investments in selling expense to improve the customer experience within the stores. For the quarter, operating income dollars were up to last year, and the operating income rate was down. Now turning to the direct channel. Our strategy to distort to core categories is working, and we were pleased with results in our direct channel. Third quarter sales were up 4% as 20% growth in our go-forward category more than offset $36 million of non-go-forward apparel. The merchandise margin rate and dollars were up to last year during the quarter as we continue to distort to the core. Operating income dollars and rate increased significantly. In summary, we know that the majority of the season is ahead of us. And in order to deliver our goal, we are going to remain focused on our cross customer, our core business and executing with excellence. We are excited and optimistic about holiday, which starts with Black Friday next week. So happy Thanksgiving, everyone. We are positioned with a strong, fashion-right assortment and activities that will drive both self purchase and gifting. This includes our new bra launch in early December. Following Black Friday weekend, the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show will air on Tuesday, December 8, 10:00 p.m. Eastern Standard Time, featuring musical performance by Ellie Goulding, Selena Gomez and The Weekend. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were pleased with our third quarter results. We were again able to increase earnings versus our record earnings last year. We were able to drive growth in sales while improving margin rates and continuing to manage inventory appropriately.
Third quarter sales of Bath & Body Works North America was $705 million, up 7% or $46 million to last year, and comps increased 6% on top of 7% last year. Sales were strong across the quarter, and we were able to drive growth in each of our 3 key businesses:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business and our home fragrance assortment. Merchandise margin rate for the quarter was up with gains from effective leveraging pricing and promotion being partially offset by negative impact of foreign exchange in our Canadian business.
For the quarter, operating income was $136 million, up 46% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 510 basis points to 19.3%, driven by improvements in sales, margin and SG&A expense leverage. We continue to see strong performance in our BBW Direct channel, which grew sales by 20% and operating income significantly in the quarter versus last year. We ended the quarter with inventory up slightly to last year as we prepared for the fourth quarter. We remain focused on disciplined inventory and expense management, and we'll continue to make appropriate investments to drive growth in the business. We have begun the fourth quarter of 2015 with our holiday theme featuring customer fragrance favorites as well as new winter fragrances in our 3 key businesses. We will be focused on delivering the Perfect Christmas and giving her the holiday experience that she has come to expect from Bath & Body Works, including newness in our core product categories, gifting options and an irresistible in-store experience. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. As in previous calls, I should give you a brief overview of progress in our international businesses. As you know, our opportunity for international growth is significant, and we're making good progress. As detailed on Page 13 of your presentation, we've opened 93 gross international locations so far this year, 29 in the third quarter, to end the quarter with 480 stores in the segment.
Revenue increased 16% in the quarter to $92.8 million and operating income increased 13% to $18.2 million. The operating income rate decreased 50 basis points to 19.6, driven by FX headwinds. Absent the impact of FX, OI rate would have been 3 to 4 percentage points higher. Retail sales growth in local currency in the international business continues to be strong. At Victoria's Secret International, we are pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. In the U.K., we have a busy quarter ahead with another 4 stores to open to end the year with 14 stores. In the Middle East, we opened our fifth store of the year 2 weeks ago in Istanbul, bringing the total to 16 VS stores and 3 PINK stores. Staying with Victoria's Secret, our Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well, with 342 locations opened at the end of the quarter, about 1/3 of which are in airports. We have another 40 or so to open in Q4. Turning to Bath & Body Works, we now have 110 international stores, and we continue to be very pleased with their performance. We expect to open another 15 or so BBW International stores in the balance of the year. So in summary, continued progress for our international business in the third quarter, and we remain focused on the fundamentals, great execution of our brands wherever we go. With that, I'll say thank you. And I'll turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments this morning. At this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you have. [Operator Instructions] Now I'll turn it back over to the operator.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Susan Anderson from FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering, Stuart, if you could talk about just the gross margin composition going forward. Do you think there is opportunity still with markdown in fourth quarter, especially given the environment around the holiday? Then also any AUC opportunity and I guess, if you could talk about just the P&L bucket if you can continue to comp mid-single digits or opportunity there?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So a lot, Susan, in that question, and thanks for your remark about the third quarter. As we think about merchandise margin and related buying and occupancy expense and we've -- our thinking's been very consistent about this. We have some additional opportunity, probably not a lot in the merchandise margin rate. And the reason for that is, the most important thing is to get the product right. And from that, obviously, we get full-price selling and all good things happen. There is a little bit more opportunity or some more additional opportunity as it relates to speed and the value that, that creates. But all of that is balanced against making sure that we're providing great value to customers. And what we don't want to do is have the margin percents get too high and as a result, either limit our growth in terms of dollar growth or have the outcome where the customer doesn't feel like she's getting a terrific value. So that's really how we think about it. As we've talked about previously, we're not a company that's particularly focused on AUCs. We obviously do buy a lot of merchandise, and we're not looking to overpay. But what we're really focused on is innovation, newness, fashion, speed, product quality. That's where we spend most of our time and energy working with a great group of partners in terms of the folks that manufacture our merchandise. As it relates to buying and occupancy expenses, we are investing in our stores. And as we outlined a few weeks ago at our annual update, we're very energized and optimistic about the growth that, that will provide for the company and frankly, the strategic importance of that, if you will, in terms of ensuring those store environments remain very compelling for our customers. And as a result, the dollar growth in our buying and occupancy expense will be in the mid-single-digit range for the remainder of this year and going into next year. So that would be how I would outline our thinking about gross margin rates. Thanks.
Sharen Turney:
Susan, one point to add on that, specifically as it relates to the fourth quarter. So Stuart mentioned in his comments that we will see 2 to 3 points of sales spread versus comps in the fourth quarter, primarily because the direct business is slipping around against exited apparel merchandise. So we will have a bit of a lower leverage point on buying and occupancy go forward.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez from Citi.
Paul Lejuez:
As you grow in square footage in the U.S., can you talk about what's actually happening to rents in the new space that you get relative to existing space? And then does it do anything for you in terms of negotiating rents in existing space maybe for each of the brands, if you could talk about them separately, has there been any change there?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Paul, it's Stuart. I mean, what I would say is as we renew leases as a general matter, rents are increasing, as you would expect. So our lease terms, as a general point, are 10-year lease terms. And as we renew leases, the rents are higher. With that said, and not unlike our thinking as it relates to merchandise and margin rates that we talked about earlier, the most important thing, obviously, as it relates to real estate, is having a terrific location within a given shopping venue. So we're not looking to get the lowest rents, if you will. We're looking to get the right locations. We drive a lot of productivity, as you know, in terms of sales per foot. So our ability to do that with the major developers, frankly, throughout the world or in the world is pretty good. But we're not focused on getting the lowest rent terms, if you will. We're focused on getting great locations, driving lot of sales, a lot of 4-wall profit. And as we renew leases, our rent per foot, or rent dollars do increase. But at the end of the day, the 4-wall economics remain very, very powerful.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Matthew Boss from JPMorgan.
Christina Brathwaite:
It's Christina Brathwaite on for Matt. On the international front, we were surprised by the revenue growth in Q3, given some of the wholesale shipments that shifted into the quarter from 2Q. Can you walk through the puts and takes of growth during the quarter and just tie into -- in your long-term expectations for revenue growth?
Amie Preston:
Yes, Christina, we'll go to Martin, obviously, for that question.
Martin Waters:
Sure. I'll take that. Maybe 2 points on retail sales and international one on OI. Retail sales in local currencies are up significantly to last year and broadly in line with the increases that we saw in the previous quarter. Secondly, you look at recorded revenue, which you'll remember, is a mix of 3 things. It's a mix of owned retail in the U.K., retail royalty streams that come from our franchise businesses and wholesale income that comes through travel retail. So it's 3 things in that part. The -- those recorded revenues have been up significantly to last year but have been impacted by really 3 things. The first is FX headwinds, which had about 6 points of impact. The second is delays to some store openings versus the prior year. We still have over 50 stores to open between now and the end of January, which is a little later than I would like. And the third is that the travel retail business globally has seen a little bit of slowdown. So those are impacting our revenue stream. As far as the OI rates is concerned, I'd just remind you that, that FX, when pressured, is pretty significant. And if we adjusted for that, we'd see about 3 or 4 percentage points higher rates than we're seeing right now.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
I'm not sure if this question on Victoria's Secret Beauty is for Sharen or Stuart. I'm wondering if you can just give us the longer-term picture on the category. By recollection, I think Beauty has largely not grown here over the last 8 to 10 years. And as a result, the Beauty piece, the mix percentage of Beauty to the overall assortment, has declined. I don't know if you have the statistics. If you do, it would be great to hear them. And that would seem from Beauty's high margins that the brand has absorbed actually a gross margin headwind over the last number of years. I'm wondering if you have any quantification around that. And what's the outlook for Beauty with all of the new packaging and the new relaunch and the new restaging? How should we think about the growth of that business over the next 1, 2, 3 years?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly. We'll go to Sharen for that question.
Sharen Turney:
Kimberly, thank you. Our Beauty business is about $1 billion business today. And you're right, it has not grown really over the last 3 years. It's been pretty much a practice. As we have thought about our Beauty business, we have continued to shrink the real estate in our Beauty business because we feel like it has the opportunity to be much more productive. The strategic intent of taking Beauty off the lease line and closer to the cash wrap has allowed us to become more productive. Therefore, we've been stagnant a little bit in our growth category. We felt like the Beauty business was trading on the brand equity versus the opportunity to trade up, to have it really leave the category from a prestigious perspective. And as our -- base of our business was in the fantasies business, which is more of an opening price point, high unit velocity business. We're trading into more of a fine fragrance business as well as a higher in body care business. As we go through these transitions, just like we did in direct, we know that we will take a step back as we take a step forward. We also know that the Beauty characteristics are very exportable. We're still very -- we still believe in our Beauty business. We still believe that there's growth in our Beauty business, but it's up to us to reformat this business to make it much more elevated so it does have growth characteristics.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Sharen, I wondered if you would talk about the bra category and the performance. Obviously, PINK we know had a great performance but maybe the core bra and panty category performance for Victoria's Secret in the third quarter and your outlook in the fourth. I think you are launching a new bra. And just as a point of clarification, Stuart, could we expect that spread differential of I think you said 2 to 3 points. Is that something we should be factoring into our models for next year?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. We'll start with Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Janet, thank you. We're very pleased with our Victoria's Secret launch array bra business. It was in the low -- the high low double digit -- high low single-digit growth over 8 -- between 8% and 10%. So very happy about that business. And when I think about our total bra category, both from the Victoria's Secret lingerie perspective, a PINK perspective and a sport perspective, we're seeing mid-double-digit growth, which is a very strong category. We're excited about the bra launch that we're bringing in, in December. This will be the first time that we will have one. It was on in the fashion show. So we have a good track record of bra business. We see growth in our core bra business, and we still believe that we have a lot of potential as we continue to segment that bra business go forward.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Hey, Janet, on the spread. The short answer to your question is, yes. And as Amy remarked that why we haven't been realizing the spread year-to-date, is due to the impact of the VSB apparel exit through the first 3 quarters of this year. We're going to have that spread in the fourth quarter. And as you think about '16, '17, '18, I would expect -- we would expect it will be the spread from square footage growth and that we've been outlining.
Janet Kloppenburg:
And FX pressure may be less?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
If anybody has got a crystal ball about foreign currency, I'd love to -- call me off-line, I'd love to learn more about that. So we'll see.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
It's great to see how insulated the business has been relative to some of the other challenges we've seen from your peers in the mall. I was curious if you could give us any perspective on whether you're seeing a difference across regions, across mall type. It does seem like consumer behavior shifted a little bit in the last few months. So I'm curious if there is any color you can add there on your business. And then, Sharen, I was curious outside of the Angel Card relaunch, how were your promos in Victoria's Secret third quarter versus last year? Were they generally -- were they consistent outside of that one launch? And as you think about the fourth quarter, how are you planning your promos versus prior year?
Amie Preston:
Okay. Thanks, Lindsay. We'll start with Nick on the general traffic question.
Nicholas Coe:
Hi, Lindsay. We're not seeing any dramatic differences or demonstrable differences between either regionally and/or mall type. I think what we're really, really focused on at the moment is continuing to try and keep the store looking as animated and interesting as possible, so that we can continue to drive traffic. We're very, very focused on first quality selling. We're very focused on units. We're very focused on storytelling. And that seems to be what's helping insulate us from challenge in traffic. So in terms of are we seeing anything really different, I can't say that we are either regionally and/or mall type.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick. And Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, in terms of the regional mall types, we're really not seeing a big difference. There will be certain stores in certain regions depending on their penetration of beauty. But outside of that, there's pretty much of a consistency. So we're excited about that. As I'm thinking about the Angel Card relaunch and the margins that you are talking about for third quarter in the promotional activity, the promotional activity was not greater or we did not have more promotions this third quarter versus last year. We did -- the promotions we did actually were bigger and better. So we're trying to get fewer but bigger and better, therefore, driving traffic and efficiencies within the store. As I think about fourth quarter, right now, we are planning to have a few less promotions in the fourth quarter. We felt like we had too many last year. This year, we also have a lot of contingencies in place just in case that we need to react to the business to keeping that agility. So we're looking forward to how this fourth quarter does play out.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of John Morris from BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
Sharen, a question for you. We've talked a little bit about it thus far. The store trending and incentive program, can you give us the status update and the progression there? And what so far are your learnings? And kind of another part to this is, I think we -- you and I had talked about how -- one of your initiatives is to get out of holiday a little bit faster this year. And I'm wondering how that will play out in the quarter and could that set you up a little bit better for Q1 when you have Valentine's Day coming.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, John. Thanks, John. As we think about -- we are so focused on -- in terms of our selling organization really about getting great experienced sales associates who really want to have careers with us. So as you know, we're testing a lot of different programs. We're really working on thinking about how to educate our people. Obviously, going into the holiday, we're focused on about making sure that we get all the holidays' help that we need. So we are still focused on testing and learning at this point. We are seeing positive results of our effort, but there's still so much for us to learn. And we'll continue to evolve along on this focus over the next 24 months. And we are really going to get leverage out of the selling cost as we think about it as we go into next spring and the fall season. In terms of the question about getting out of holiday earlier, this year, we are actually pulling up our semiannual sale, which will be a shift out of January into the last week of December. This will allow us now to really convert into spring, convert out of all of the getting sale off the floor and really coming out strong with spring fresh merchandise, really wear now merchandise in terms of the transition. We're excited about this strategy, and so there will be some puts and takes between the month of January and December.
John Morris:
A better setup, I assume, for the all-important Valentine's Day period?
Sharen Turney:
Absolutely.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Christian Buss from Credit Suisse.
Christian Buss:
So I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about your lean manufacturing initiatives and how much progress there is still to make there.
Amie Preston:
Okay, Christian. We'll go to Stuart for that.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. I'll handle it generally, and Sharen and Nick may want to elaborate further. So I think you're referring to the work that we've been doing for now a number of years to reduce fundamentally our lead times and focus on speed. And as we talk about it, our read, react and case capabilities, we've talked about it generally, as sometimes we use the metaphor of a baseball game and I'd say we're in the middle to maybe the sixth inning or so. Again, Sharen and Nick may want to add to it. But it's very important to our business in terms of a lever to increase full-price selling and reduce markdowns. And we've made substantial progress across all of our businesses. There is some additional opportunity, but it's been a very important focus for us now for 3 or 4 years and we've realized a lot of benefit from it. There is more yet to do, but we're well into the opportunity. And again, Nick, Sharen, if you want to add to it, certainly feel free to do so.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, Christian, it's pretty much well leveraged at this point. It is fundamentally the way we do run the business. And so really, it's incredibly well embedded. And so a lot of the energy really goes into our ability to make sure that we're selecting the right types of products to be in that chase mode, so that we can read and react and respond to customer behavior. But I would say it's pretty well leveraged at this juncture.
Sharen Turney:
No, I was just going to say, I think from a Victoria's Secret perspective is that, we still believe that there's more opportunity to be had. I think that how we do business, speed is just one way to do it. And as the world keeps changing, the opportunities keep changing for us to think about how to get faster and faster. And each and every one of our partners throughout the world are on this journey with us. And it's amazing how powerful these collaborations are when we think about the opportunities that we have. So I don't think that from a Victoria's Secret perspective that we're totally leveraged yet and still have some opportunities as we go forward.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick from Royal Bank of Canada.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, Stuart, first, you did talk about the BOW leverage potentially for next year. Curious on the SG&A side and where are we on the payroll investments, particularly at VS? And what are we lapping? And maybe what new markets we'll be extending into? And then maybe for Stuart or Nick, maybe on the BBW EBIT margins. I think now you're poised for a mid-20s operating margin this year. That's pretty incredible. So as we think about that business going forward and the remodels that you're initiating, what do you think is the right margin level for BBW?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Brian, I'll take the first part of that. So on SG&A expense, as a percent of sales, what our goal as a company is over time, and we've been pretty consistent in our thinking about this, is to grow expenses slower than sales. You point out in your question we've talked about, you're aware of the fact that we are investing in a more highly paid, more productive sales associate in our business. And that certainly is putting pressure on near term results. But we're also, in many cases, finding ways to at least partly offset some of those investments. And you should be sure that we'll continue to look for ways to work to offset those investments. But as a general matter, we will be looking to hold SG&A rates flat or get slight leverage over time. We referenced in our remarks a few weeks ago in the broader group that we're also thinking about dollar growth versus rate expansion. And as you appreciate, there's a lot of balance in that. And so -- and that certainly applies to the SG&A line as well. But as we sit here and knowing the mindset of Sharen, Nick, Martin, the other leaders in the business left, at the end of the day, we will continue to make sure we're making the right investments to grow our business but also be tough-minded about driving trade-offs to either fully fund or at least partly fund those investments. So that's our state of mind about it.
Brian Tunick:
And on the BB?
Nicholas Coe:
Hi, Brian, it's Nick. So I think I'd echo what Stuart is saying, so an awful lot of energy and effort going into top line growth as opposed to further margin rate expansion. So -- and we're very, very focused on first quality selling. So a lot of investment will continue to go into product to make sure we're as innovative as possible. And obviously, as we head into the fourth quarter, which is -- or rather into November, December, which is such a dynamic period, maybe naive to think there was more in that.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Laura Champine from Cantor Fitzgerald.
Laura Champine:
Stuart, on the La Senza business, or maybe it's for Martin, what is your time frame on turning that at least to breakeven? And why strategically hold onto the business at this point? Is it -- it somewhat obscures the health of your bigger businesses.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Laura. We'll go to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thank you. Well, La Senza continues to be a work in progress, no doubt about that, but we're pretty pleased with the progress we've made. We continued to see positive sales momentum in the business. We're getting closer to the target customer, better assortments, more fashion-right, on significantly tighter inventory. So that's all really good and really positive. We also see sales momentum in the business, where we're collocated with Victoria's and PINK is really strong. So there's a real relevance for that brand in the marketplace alongside the other 2 businesses that we own. The logic for keeping it, I think, is obvious and compelling. We own the number 1, number 2 and number 3 lingerie brands in the world. Having a value play underneath the Victoria's makes a ton of strategic sense and so we're very committed to its future. But the one bogey that we have on La Senza, of course, and we've referenced it a number of times in this call, is the FX rate between the Canadian dollar and the U.S. dollar, which gives us a really, really significant headwind. But it is what it is. FX is outside of our control, and we continue to get better, stay focused on the customer and really lean into this key time of year.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Joan Payson from Barclays.
Joan Payson:
You've given us, I think, some good color around the investments that are going into the stores and the selling experience. I was hoping you could talk about whether there are any incremental investments coming up that you're putting into the direct and online businesses, particularly as you begin to lap some of the apparel reductions that you've been going through on the Victoria's Secret side?
Amie Preston:
Okay. Let's go to Sharen for that question.
Sharen Turney:
Hi, thank you. Our investment in direct, number one, obviously, we're going to continue to focus on the core products. That's going to be the main investment. The other piece of it is that we are constantly investing in looking at our technology platforms to drive mobile. Mobile continues to be a big part of our business. It continues to be the fastest-growing piece of the business. So as we go forward and look at some of the investments that we'll be making, they're going to be made in terms of the technology that we need to help continue to drive this very, very powerful online business.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Dorothy Lakner from Topeka Capital Markets.
Dorothy Lakner:
I wanted to go back a minute to the Canadian business and just overall, I guess, Martin, your impressions of the consumer environment there overall and maybe Sharen and Nick can answer this as well. But just differences that you're seeing maybe in that environment versus the U.S., if you're seeing them.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes. I wouldn't describe the difference in customer behavior, particularly different in Canada and what we're seeing in the rest of the U.S., to be honest. On a day-to-day basis, the customer in the malls in Canada doesn't think about FX rate. She isn't thinking to a first base on what the movement in currency is. So I think it's pretty much the way we see in the U.S. The one exception I draw out from a regional point of view that is a little different in the U.S., is the west of Canada is significantly weaker. So impacted by the oil industry and oil prices particularly, we do see that the west has a weaker level of sales comp than we're seeing elsewhere. But I think that's about it. I don't know if the others have anything to add, probably not.
Sharen Turney:
No, I don't.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer from MKM Partners.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is on Victoria's Secret margins in 3Q. I'm just wondering how much the lower Beauty business and FX impacted the segment margin. And then how should we think about each of these in 4Q, particularly Beauty, given that you're signaling that the business is probably going to be down and that mix shift probably will have an impact.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Roxanne. We'll go to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Roxanne, the majority of the margin was really about 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 in terms of you're looking at the Angel Card relaunch, our FX from the Canadian business. And then the shift in the Beauty. I think that what, as we go forward and we look at fourth quarter, the Beauty business is about 18% of the business in fourth quarter. So I think, hopefully, that we have tried to architect the business in a way to help offset that. We feel that there's probably some opportunity and are anticipating merchandise margin dollar improvement in Q4. But I think the margin rate will continue to be impacted mostly by the FX and the Beauty business. So we are trying to look at that very carefully as we go forward. We still believe that the Beauty business has opportunity to bounce back for us as we go forward into next year. So that's where we really are as we think about our fourth quarter.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
A question to Stuart on inventories. This team has done such a great job managing very tightly. The 9% increase in the third quarter being a little bit higher than, I think, original guidance, maybe talk about what drove that and what was the increase, excluding the early receipts? And also, just with the addition of debt to the balance sheet, is there a cash balance that the team all talks about?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on inventory, you're referring to the balance sheet number, and I understand why you do that and it's up 9 year-on-year. It's down 1% on a 2-year basis, the balance sheet inventory, and sales were up meaningfully over that period of time. We typically talk about and report on, on a monthly basis, inventory per foot because we think that's a relevant measure. And on that basis, inventory for the quarter ended up plus 7 and down 6 on a 2-year basis. The bottom line is we think inventory is in great shape, as I've commented on in the prepared remarks. The early receipts had a couple of point impact on the inventory levels. And then what was the second part of your question, sorry? What was the second thing you asked?
Amie Preston:
Cash flow.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Oh, cash flow. As we think about kind of minimum cash levels, I would say a range of $800 million to $1 billion in terms of starting the year such that we wouldn't need to use the revolver. Now we have a revolver. It's $1 billion revolver. We generally don't use it. One could debate that we obviously seek to manage the business conservatively. But in answer to your question, $800 million to $1 billion with an assumption that we wouldn't seek to use the revolver. That number has come up a little bit as our capital spending levels have come up over the last few years.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow from Wells Fargo.
Irwin Boruchow:
I think this is a Stuart question maybe a Nick question. But when we look at -- to piggyback of Brian's BBW margin question, significantly more leverage in this quarter versus the first half of the year on the operating margin at BBW on the fairly similar comp. And if I look last year, it was kind of the same dynamic as well in terms of how much leverage there was in Q3. Is there anything special about Q3 in terms of why maybe there's more margin opportunity for the business in the last 2 years or anything this year? Just kind of curious about that.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. Ike, thanks for your question. I mean, I want to make 2 points about it -- we'd want to make 2 points about it. I mean, Bath & Body, over time -- and we've done this the whole company over time, but Bath & Body, particularly, over time, has done a great job improving margin rates -- merchandise margin rates and managing expense levels with a lot of discipline. Some of that's also reflected about the fact that we have invested a lot in the store fleet in terms of remodeling stores and so on. But main, main point is Bath & Body has done a great job driving profit rate through discipline in their business, and that's a headline and a familiar one. Separately, a year ago, we did have a discrete, unfavorable item, and this year we had a small discrete favorable item that impact the third quarter result a bit just in terms of some uniqueness in the quarter.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Betty Chen from Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
I was wondering if, Martin, you can talk a little bit more about the travel stores. You certainly referred some impact in the third quarter. Any additional color you can give us on what you're seeing in that business and how we should think about it for Q4 and maybe 2016? And then my follow-up question is, as we continue to think about the brands making an emotional connection to the customer, how should we think about marketing dollars plan for the holiday season and perhaps next year as well?
Martin Waters:
Sure. So I'll take the travel retail part and then maybe pass to Stuart on the other question. So the travel retail business continues to be very, very good business. It's sophisticated customers around the world who have got money to spend, who have time on their hands and it's just a terrific space to be in, particularly for beauty and accessories businesses. So we remain committed to it. I think Victoria's is now the largest stand-alone retail operator of stand-alone stores in travel retail globally, which is terrific from a standing start in just a few years. And we still see significant growth ahead of us. So we're going to continue to open 30 or 40 more travel retail doors in 2016. Has there been a slowdown in the last 3 to 6 months? Yes, there had. And I think that's primarily driven by a couple of things. The world is not what it was. There's certainly more security challenges around the world than was probably the case this time last year. The Russian customer's not traveling to the extent that she was. The Chinese consumer has changed patterns of travel. So all of those things in the mix, along with generally a bit of a malaise in travel retail driven by security concerns, I think have taken the market down overall. The overall travel retail market down some probably mid single-digit would be my guess. But overall, the message is we're very, very happy with the business, and we see it as a very productive and strategically right place for us to operate.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. And for the marketing question, we'll go to Nick first and then Sharen.
Nicholas Coe:
Hi, Betty, thanks for the kind words on the quarter. I think the way we're really thinking about it is, it's flat, but we're also in a position if we see something excited -- exciting happening, we'll be in a position to invest in that. I think the real focus for us for fourth quarter, though, is really about agility and our ability to react to either customer behavior or market dynamics more importantly than are we taking marketing up or down. But the message would be flat fundamentally.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. And Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
As I think about it from a total-total mega brand perspective, we'll be down a little bit in our marketing as we go into the fourth quarter and into spring.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Simeon Siegel from Nomura Securities.
Simeon Siegel:
If I can piggyback on Brian's other question. Just Stuart, given the VS stores deleverage despite that 7 comp, what would you expect the SG&A leverage point for stores to be next year? And then can you contextualize what percent of the store expenses are now fixed versus variable?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
I mean, there is a lot in that question. So in terms of the flex point on SG&A or store selling, it's not actually static, it's more dynamic. Really, the only -- at least in meaningful times of the year, important times of the year, the only fixed part of store payroll is the management complement, certainly, in lower volume periods in the year, more of the payroll is fixed, if you will. But again, we'll be looking to grow expenses lower than sales as we move forward. We are making investments in store selling. We'll give you more guidance about '16 when we give guidance in February for the coming year. But again, know that we are looking to grow expenses lower than sales. And I know it's kind of handy or helpful to have a breakpoint, but I'm just being transparent with you. It's not as simple as oh, it's 4% or 5%, because it's more dynamic than that, and we manage it in a more dynamic way than that.
Operator:
Your last question comes from the line of Oliver Chen from Cowen & Company.
Oliver Chen:
As we look across holiday season for other retailers, a big theme is earlier promotions, the integration between online and stores and buy online, pickup in store, as well as some degree of differences on the traffic patterns of the customers. I just wanted to get your highlights about how you're competing in that context and if you expect the holiday sales to be spread out, but I know you mentioned you're intensifying some of the marketing.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. We'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Hi, Oliver. We're not looking to go earlier or later. I think we want to be in a position to fundamentally follow last year's pattern, but be in a position to react to the market and/or react to the customer in terms of the dynamics of that particular period. And how that relates to the online channel, we're pretty well integrated from a comparable product, comparable price, comparable promotion. And that works really, really well for us. So we'll leverage either the channel dependent upon what's really going on in the market.
Amie Preston:
And Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, Oliver, we, over the last, I would say, 4 years, 5 years, have seen the patterns of holiday being changed. What you see is that there's a big Black Friday weekend and kind of leading up to, then it kind of tranches down a little bit, and the last 2 weeks gets stronger and then continue to -- through past Christmas. I think that having seen these patterns, we've been -- we're very well positioned in our thinking, in our programs, how we're delivering merchandise to take advantage of those change in the patterns. We also have had much alignment and are still aligned within our direct channel as well as our store channel. We believe the engagement in social and how we are looking at using our social media this year will be very important. So I think that we are ready. And I think the most important thing is that you just never know. There's always something that comes up and surprises you. And because of our trying to make sure that we stay as agile as we can with our contingencies in our thinking and how we were going to operate the business in holiday, I think we're prepared for those. You never know. There are always some surprises. But we're not really starting earlier. I think we understand where the big days are and where the traffic is going to be, and that's what we're focused on.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver. Thanks to all of you for joining us today, and we hope you all have a happy Thanksgiving.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Stephanie, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2015 Earnings Call.
I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Good morning, and welcome to L Brands' second quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, August 1, 2015. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our second quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, lb.com. Also available on the website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call.
Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] Thanks. And now I'll the turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We delivered solid second quarter results as we continued to deliver sales growth, merchandise margin rate improvement and sound inventory management. Earnings per share increased 8% to $0.68 versus $0.63 last year. Excluding the $0.02 negative impact from foreign exchange rates, earnings growth was 11%.
To take you through the second quarter results as detailed on Page 4 of the presentation. Net sales for the quarter increased 3% to $2.765 billion and comps increased 4%. Foreign currency negatively impacted our sales growth by about 1 point. The gross margin rate increased by 130 basis points to 40.3%, driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate. Buying and occupancy expense deleveraged, driven by our investments in real estate. SG&A expenses deleveraged by 70 basis points, primarily driven by our investment in store selling to improve the customer experience. Operating income dollars increased by 7%, and our operating income rate improved by 50 basis points. Earnings per share increased 8% to $0.68. Foreign currency negatively impacted our second quarter EPS result by about $0.02. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter flat versus last year. Inventories were clean and we are well positioned. We repurchased 1.5 million shares of stock in the second quarter for $131.2 million. At quarter end, we had $197.8 million remaining under our current $250 million repurchase program. Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. Our forecast for 2015 reflects actions we are taking to grow our business. Growth in square footage increased selling payroll, driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience and investments in international expansion. It also reflects an estimated negative impact resulting from foreign currency exchange rates and a higher tax rate. Our third quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase. We expect the third quarter gross margin rate to increase, driven by an improvement in the merchandise margin rate, offset by buying and occupancy expense deleverage. We expect the SG&A rate to delever, driven primarily by an increase in store selling costs. We expect third quarter net nonoperating expense, consisting primarily of interest expense, to be about flat to last year at $80 million. We expect earnings per share between $0.40 and $0.45 in the third quarter against last year's $0.44 result. This forecast includes a negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.03. We are also lapping approximately $35 million in sales of non-go-forward apparel at Victoria's Secret Direct. We expect to end the third quarter with inventory per square foot of low to mid-single digits to last year. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 1 point higher than comps due to growth in square footage in our international business. Foreign currency translation is expected to negatively impact sales growth by about 1 point. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be up and the SG&A rate to be slightly up to last year. Net nonoperating expenses, consisting principally of interest expense, are projected to be about $315 million, roughly flat to last year. Before any discrete items, we estimate our tax rate will be approximately 37.5% versus 36.3% in 2014. The higher projected tax rate in 2015 will negatively impact earnings per share by about $0.07. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 296 million in the third quarter and 297 million for the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2015 to be between $3.58 and $3.73. This estimate includes an estimated negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.12. We are projecting 2015 CapEx between $800 million and $850 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 12 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in North America will increase by about 4% this year, driven by expansions of existing Victoria's Secret stores and 25 net new openings. Bath & Body Works square footage in North America will increase by about 3%, driven by 28 net new openings and 83 remodels. Total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2015 free cash flow of between $700 million and $800 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, results in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividend and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. In the Victoria's Secret segment, we were able to grow sales and earnings versus our record performance last year. We were able to drive growth in sales while improving margin rates.
Comps increased 3% on top of 3% last year, reaching $1.8 billion in total sales for the second quarter. Operating income of $298 million was up $5 million or 2% to last year. We had hoped to do even better, but remain committed and focused on the fundamentals. We recognize that we must keep getting better to win. Included in our results are the exit of apparel and makeup last year or $65 million in sales. Excluding these items, our segment sales growth would have been up mid-single digits and comps would've been about 1 point higher. We had solid performance in bras and panties with positive double-digit growth and increased margin rate. In addition, we remain pleased with the growth and strong customer response to our PINK loungewear business. We were disappointed in the performance of swim and beauty, which were both below our expectations and were the primary drivers of our miss in operating income. We finished the quarter with inventory levels up low single-digits per foot to last year and in line with our expectations. Now let's turn to the specific channel performance, starting with stores. Sales for the quarter increased 5% to $1.4 billion and comps increased 3% on top of 3% last year. Sales growth was driven by strength in PINK, along with growth in lingerie, bras and panties. Our beauty business was down to last year, reflecting the impact of exiting the makeup category and softness in gifting. Swim was also down to last year, driven by fashion misses during the second quarter. Merchandise margin dollars increased versus last year, but the rate was about flat as strength in full-price selling was mostly offset by increased swim clearance and unfavorable FX impact in our Canadian business. Expenses, including buying and occupancy and SG&A, delevered in the quarter versus last year, driven by investments in store real estate and higher store selling costs. Operating income dollars were about flat to last year. Excluding the impact of exiting makeup, earnings would have been up mid-single digits versus last year. Now turning to the direct channel. Our strategy to distort to core categories with our best growth opportunities is working, and we were pleased with the results in our direct channel. Second quarter sales were down 4%, as we anniversaried roughly $45 million of non-go-forward apparel. Operating income dollars and rate improved, driven by the increase in merchandise margin and decrease in expenses. Collectively, sales in go-forward categories were up over 10%. Swim also missed expectations in the direct channel. The merchandise margin rate in dollars were up to last year during the quarter as we continued to distort to the core.
Looking ahead to the third quarter. We will continue our focused, fast and frugal approach in order to grow our business. Our fashion offerings are strong, and we will continue to flow newness this quarter. We are focused on driving growth in our core categories:
bras, panties, lounge and fragrance. We started August with the Body by Victoria and Wear Everywhere Bra launches. We prepared for a strong back-to-school season with our second annual PINK Friday. We are entering the season with well-positioned inventory, enabling us to be agile and respond with speed. We will continue to be up against the exit of non-go-forward apparel, which represents roughly $35 million in sales in the third quarter last year. In addition, we are continuing to invest in real estate, store selling and digital enhancements to create a more seamless shopping experience for our customer. These are the right investments for the long-term growth of our business, but will pressure rate in the third quarter. We are continuing to test and learn for holiday in order to set ourselves up for success in the fourth quarter.
Thank you. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were pleased with our second quarter results, where we were again able to grow sales and increase earnings versus our record performance last year. We were able to drive growth in sales while improving margin rates and continuing to maintain inventory levels -- manage inventory levels down.
Second quarter sales of Bath & Body Works North America was $748 million, up 6% or $44 million to last year, and comps increased 5% on top of 3% last year. Sales were strong across the quarter, and we were able to drive growth in each of our 3 key businesses:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business and our home fragrance assortment.
We were able to pull back in promotional activity versus last year. We reduced clearance selling throughout the quarter and we were able to effectively leverage product newness in our semiannual sale. We were very pleased with our customers' continued positive reaction to our brand, our product assortments and our storytelling as well as our in-store experience. For the quarter, operating income was $138 million, up 20% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 210 basis points to 18.4%, driven by improvement in gross profit and SG&A expense leverage. We continue to see strong performance in our BBW Direct channel, which grew sales by 15% and operating income significantly in the second quarter versus last year. We ended the quarter with inventory down to last year, well positioned heading into the third quarter and flexible enough to react to customers' preferences. We remain focused on disciplined expense management but will continue to make appropriate investments to drive growth in the business. Looking ahead to the third quarter of 2015. We will continue to leverage the strength of our read-and-react capabilities and provide a world-class, in-store experience by constantly delivering differentiation within visual display and maintaining a strong customer service focus. We begin the quarter focused on our Welcome to Wine Country theme, featuring new and seasonal fragrances in our 3 key businesses, and we'll transition to our fall floor set in September time period. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. As in previous calls, I shall give you a brief overview of our progress in our international businesses. As we all know, our opportunity for international growth is significant, and we feel good about the strategic choices we made to be steady and purposeful, to pursue a test-and-learn philosophy that reflects the DNA of our company.
As detailed on Page 13 of your presentation, we opened 64 gross international locations so far this year, 35 in the second quarter, to end the quarter with 453 stores in the segment. Revenue increased 12% in the quarter to $88.7 million and operating income increased 19% to $20.2 million. The operating income rate increased 140 basis points to 22.8%. The revenue growth deceleration versus the first quarter was driven by timing shifts in the shipment of product to our wholesale partners in the VSBA business. These timing shifts will smooth out over a longer period of time. Importantly, retail sales growth in the international business continues to be strong and has been consistent over the last several quarters. At Victoria's Secret International, we are pleased with performance of our full-assortment stores. In the U.K., we continue to be very pleased with our 10 stores. We opened the Bond Street expansion in May, and we will open another 4 stores in the U.K. later this year. In the Middle East, we now have 14 Victoria's Secret stores and 3 PINK stores. We continue to be very pleased with the results there and will open a few more stores later this year. Staying with Victoria's Secret. Our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well with 325 locations opened at the end of the quarter, about 1/3 of which are in airports. We've opened 12 VSBA stores in China and are pleased with the results. We will open about 100 or so VSBA stores across the globe by the end of 2015. Turning to Bath & Body Works International. We now have 101 BBW stores outside of North America, and we continue to be very pleased with their performance. We expect to open another 30 or so BBW stores in the balance of the year.
So in summary, continued progress for our international business in the second quarter, while we remain focused on the fundamentals:
great execution of our brands wherever we go.
And with that, I'll say thank you and turn the discussion back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take any questions you might have. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Stephanie.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
A very nice quarter here. My question's for Stuart. Stuart, you guys have been investing in store selling payroll for a number of years now, testing different wage structures and such. I'm wondering -- it sounds like the 70 basis points of pressure in SG&A this quarter was largely higher store selling payroll. As you look at the competitive landscape and what both Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works need to do in order to stay competitive and an employer of choice, what further changes are you anticipating in making in those structures as we go into 2016? And maybe just give us an update on the evolution of your strategies over the last 3 years.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Kimberly, thanks for the question. In the most summary sense and the way that we commented on it in our prepared remarks, we're investing to improve the customer experience. And we're doing a number of things to improve that experience, some of which relate to compensation, but there are other things that we're doing. And we're learning a lot. We -- it will be an ongoing journey, if you will. But again, our focus is on improving the customer experience. We obviously see that as an opportunity to deliver incremental sales growth over time. And we've got a number of initiatives within Victoria's and Bath & Body Works pursuing that agenda. We're not speaking in a lot of detail about it. But at the end of the day, it's about investing in the customer experience to drive sales growth, to improve the customer experience over time, both at Victoria's and Bath & Body Works.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Tom Filandro with Susquehanna Financial.
Thomas Filandro:
So a question for Martin. Can you help us understand the timing shift in deliveries at the VSBA locations? Like what's driving that shift? And how should we think about the underlying growth of the business? And I'm going to slip in one for Nick. How's the White Barn test going?
Martin Waters:
Yes, thanks, Tom. So you're right. There was deceleration in growth in Q2, and that is all driven by timing shifts in the wholesale proportion of the VSBA business. So a good chunk of the VSBA business works on retail royalty. But the balance, which is somewhere between 30% and 40%, is wholesale. And that does experience lumpiness as we go through the year. We do expect it to level out over time, Tom. Importantly, most important of all, retail sales have been strong, and we continue to see about the same level of growth that we've seen in each of the previous 4 quarters.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. And Nick, on White Barn?
Nicholas Coe:
Hey, Tom. Well, we're very encouraged with the initial results. But I really want to preface that. We're in the early stages and still very much in a learning curve. This is really about leveraging our strength that we currently have in the home business. We're very much at the early end of that. We'll continue to read the results and react appropriately.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. Thanks, Tom.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Omar Saad with Evercore ISI Group.
Omar Saad:
I wanted to ask a question about the bra category. I know you had strong growth there again. But I was wondering if you're seeing any kind of changes and continue -- subtle changes in consumer behavior in that category, shifts within the business. And there's some talk about the athleisure trend seeping into the more traditional bra category. I would love to see how you see that category evolving currently and into next year.
Sharen Turney:
Omar, thank you very much. We're very excited about the bra category. And as with any category, we are going to see shifts, and we're very prepared for those shifts. We're very excited about the low double-digit growth that we have in our bra category. We continue to look at the -- our landscape and thinking about the segments of the business. We entered into the sport bra business about 2, 3 years ago. It is a major focus and doing quite well. I believe that is going to be part of the bra business as we go forward. So I think that we are well positioned. We're very excited about our position as we go forward, and we continue to see double-digit growth across all of our bra categories.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Omar.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Brian Tunick with Royal Bank Canada.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, first one for Stuart. Maybe as we think about the gross margin composition going forward from here, if you think about the buckets of the markdown improvement, the buying and occupancy deleveraging, and then maybe even AUC on what's happened to cotton, how should we think about the drivers going into next year, really? I mean, do you still need a 5% to 6% comp next year to get the OW [ph] leverage? Are there just ways you're thinking about -- I know we're getting ahead of ourselves, but does the model change at all next year on the gross margin composition? And then maybe for Sharen on PINK. I think last year, back-to-school, you had a very strong PINK business, said you were off to a good start. Are there any categories that you're either lacking or you're introducing that you're most excited about in PINK?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Brian, there's a lot in that question, and that's okay, because we're in an interesting business. As we think about merchandise margin, as you know, it starts with the product. And what I mean by that is the -- how consumers react to our product. And when we get it right, as you know, we got a lot of pricing power with the Bath & Body Works and Victoria's Secret brands. So it really does start with getting the product right, which as you know, is one of the key reasons or rationales for all the work that we've done and that we continue to do on our speed agenda. When you combine that with inventory management and discipline, those things in combination get to merchandise margin rate improvements that we've realized over time, including year-to-date in 2015. With that said, you also know that we try to be smart about the trade-off between rate and dollars. And we really think a lot about reinvesting in our product and driving dollar volume at the end of the day, trading off price levels, promotions, opening price points, et cetera, to get the best merchandise margin dollar result. And then as you move into occupancy, the other component of the gross profit rate, frankly, we are very enthused and bullish about the opportunity that we have to reinvest in our store fleet. And as we report out regularly at our annual investor meeting, those investments, certainly in aggregate, have been paying off very well in terms of investment returns, driving sales growth, profit dollar growth and very importantly, setting our business up for the next 5 or 10 years with a store environment that's very compelling to consumers. And so reflecting those investments, I would expect that we'll continue to see some deleverage in the occupancy line over time. But again, view that very favorably because of how that contributes to the long-term health and growth potential for this business. So big subject. I think that reflects our views, and we'll be careful about managing rate versus dollars. Thanks.
Sharen Turney:
Brian, it's Sharen. PINK. We are so pleased with the PINK business. That team has just done a terrific job, really staying focused on just product categories and speed. The biggest investment that is different this year versus last year for PINK is in the bra category. We did a lot of testing in some districts last year. We ended up rolling out a brand-new fixture package and capacity for our bra business. So that is where we have our largest growth category as we go into back-to-school that is different from last year.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Mark Altschwager with Robert W. Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Just wanted to ask about swim for a moment. Can you just comment a bit more about what drove the weakness there, primarily a fashion issue or something else going on? And then, could you also comment on your supply chain test-and-respond capabilities for that category in particular? Just wondering if there's anything structurally different about that category that may limit your ability to respond to demand in season.
Sharen Turney:
Thanks, Mark. Swim has been my biggest disappointment, and we did it to ourselves. We had a great first quarter. We changed, instead of reacting into the things that were working, we said, "Oh, let's land a brand-new fashion delivery," which we did, and it was a big misstep. It affected both the store channel as well as the direct channel. When I think about our supply chain in swim, it was one of the first to go on a speed model. One of the other things that we did is we designed really complex swimsuits with macramé, all of those kinds of details that were much harder to chase into. So the whole swim thing is something we did to ourself. The business is there to have. We messed it up. We didn't follow our own fundamentals, and it's been my biggest disappointment.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. And thanks, Mark.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Sharen, as you think about holiday for 2015, how are you planning marketing? And what do you think the difference will be this year versus last year? And also, on the Bath & Body Works side, how do you think of holiday this year versus last year? What should we be seeing? And is there margin opportunity for holiday for both businesses?
Sharen Turney:
Dana, as you know, we're taking a pretty conservative view for fourth quarter holiday this year. Our marketing plan, we actually are adding a bra launch in the first week of December, which will be different this year versus last year. We're continuing to test early so that we can identify bigger opportunities. Our promotional activity is basically planned slightly down, but we have contingencies in place that if we need to balance out responding to traffic or driving to traffic as we protect the brand. I think for the PINK business, obviously, it's a good indicator for us about how holiday can be. We really tore holiday apart last year to think about how to approach things differently and to maximize that time frame between Thanksgiving and Christmas Day, because we all had known that, that has been declining for the industry over time, and we're just trying to make sure that we can get more of our fair share. So we're positioned well. Inventories are under control. We're doing a lot of testing. We've got a new bra launch that's happening. PINK has actually got some -- we're very fortunate that we're in a backpack cycle right now, which is just perfect for PINK. Our beauty business, we are in the throes of repositioning that beauty business because we want it to be more elevated and in line with the lingerie category. So we have introduced body care for the August time frame. We're repositioning Fantasy, which is a big chunk of that business, in October, and as we continue to elevate our fine fragrance. So I think that we're prepared, but we're also being very cautious in terms of going into holiday.
Nicholas Coe:
Dana, so for us, we really want to leverage our fortunate position of being very much a destination during the holiday period. So obviously, that means we've got to be as giftable as we possibly can. So things that spring to mind for us will be, obviously, the notion of distorting to the things that we know are really, really critical at that time frame as well as making storytelling as powerful as we possibly can. So we'll continue to heavily invest in that side of it. Obviously, newness at that time frame is important and how we mix of that with the things that she really expects to get from us. We have a rich heritage set of products that she really expected to get. So the mix is important there. From a margin perspective, obviously, we'll plan that flat and then leverage the speed capabilities that we have to be able to react to what's working and what's selling, which should give us, hopefully, some upside. But the real plan there is to be flat. I think the most important thing for us during holiday is to make sure we go into it with the highest amount of flexibility we possibly can, both from an inventory perspective as well as obviously, how we're flowing goods, et cetera.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Anne-Charlotte Windal with Bernstein.
Anne-Charlotte Windal:
A question for Martin on the Victoria's Secret full-assortment stores. Could you give us a little bit of an update and a little bit more color around what's working or not working? And in general, how well the basic U.S. lingerie product is translating internationally.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Anne-Charlotte, yes, thanks for the question. We always say that the VS business is a replication model of what we do in North America. And so it proves to be wherever we take it. I can say with confidence that the offer is well received. I can tell you that the bestsellers are, by and large, the bestsellers, the best colors -- are usually the best colors. We see a very high degree of similarity in most cases. Obviously, in certain countries where there are particular cultural norms, for example, Saudi Arabia, we see slight distortions. But honestly, not that much greater than the distortions that we would see across the enormous country that is the United States of America. So all in all, very, very pleased with the VSBA business and broadly consistent with what we see in the U.S. and excited about growth in lots of new areas of the world in 2016.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. And thanks, Anne-Charlotte.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Howard Tubin with Guggenheim Securities.
Unknown Analyst:
Sorry, this is Paula [ph] calling in for Howard. I was just wondering if you could talk to us a little bit about the performance of your sport business this quarter and plans on the go forward in terms of rolling it out to more stores.
Sharen Turney:
Thanks. Our sport business performed very well, and actually, to our expectations. We are rolling out to about 200 more stores, probably about 100 this year and 100 in early spring. So we feel good about this category. It is a growth category for us. It will be dominated by the bra category. So we look forward to seeing even more growth as we go forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Susan Anderson with FBR & Co.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering if you could maybe touch a little bit more on the gross margin. I know you talked about the outlook for next year and kind of the drivers, which I assume are very similar in the back half. But maybe just directionally, given merch margin kind of started to improve last year in the back half, how should we think about the upside there starting in the third quarter now? And then also, if you can maybe talk about just the direct business, which seems to be converging a bit more with the stores. And any more focus on omni-channel?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It's Stuart. On the merchandise margin question, to be honest, I don't have a lot more to add beyond what I already commented on in response to Brian's question. We've realized some improvement. There's the potential to realize a bit more. As I mentioned, we make a lot of judgments within the season, ultimately thinking about what will resonate best with customers and drive the best sales and margin dollar outcome. But again, with all that said, when we get the product right, leverage our speed tools really well, continue to stay disciplined on inventory, there's some opportunity for further improvement. But we're always going to balance it against reinvesting in the product and driving dollar growth.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. And Sharen, on direct?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, I'm really excited about our direct business as we continue to reposition Victoria's Secret and edit out the peripherals and really focus on our core businesses. And when you think to the direct business over the last 12, 18 months, walked away from $280 million and basically, are replacing a lot of that with the core categories, just bodes well for the customer and for the brand. As I think about omni-channel, I think Victoria's Secret, because we've been in the catalog business so long, because we moved to the Internet business, we've been an omni-channel business. We're just getting stronger and stronger. We're engaging more with our customers. Our customers are buying more with us. They're becoming -- they're not attriting at a -- they're attriting at a slower rate for us. So I think that from a brand perspective and from a direct perspective, we're moving in the right direction. We're going to continue to elevate our catalog. We're going to continue to think about that, shifting a lot of our emphasis to mobile because that's where the engagement model happens and that's where our -- we're investing in our technology. So I feel very good about where we are and what our capabilities are.
Amie Preston:
Thanks very much, Sharen. [Operator Instructions]
Operator:
Your next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
Martin, just wanted to follow up on the international commentary. Is it fair to assume that the growth rate internationally will reaccelerate in the back half? And can you talk about any successes and challenges in opening the numbers of new stores that you've planned in the first half of this year and the back half?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine. Martin, yes?
Martin Waters:
Sure, yes, happy to take that question. Yes, happy to take that question, Lorraine. Thanks for asking. As we look forward into the back half of the year, I think we're very well positioned across all of our markets. To be honest, we focus less on trying to predict exactly what that growth rate will be and more on solid execution and getting the stores open that we have in our plans. We have over 100 stores to open in the back half, and getting them opened on time and getting them opened well is mission critical. So I'm more focused on that than predicting precisely what the rate will be. But I will tell you that there's been a great deal of consistency in our growth rates across each of the last 4 quarters in terms of retail sales. Highs and lows in terms of things most pleased with, I would say China is an area of real excitement for us. We've opened 12 stores, VSBA stores. We have another 7 or 8 to open in the balance of this year. We're well positioned to open full-assortment stores in China in 2016, so particularly excited about that. If I had to pull out one big challenge that we face, it's really delivering the right real estate. We've made a strategic choice not to go at a pace that means that we need to compromise on our retail real estate. If we want the best real estate in any mall, sometimes we have to wait for it. So there's a frustration in getting the right real estate as quickly as I would like it. But by and large, we work our way through that and continue to stay focused on solid execution.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Lorraine, and thanks, Martin.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Marni Shapiro with The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
I was curious, one just clarification. The sport business at Victoria's Secret, are those bras categorized into your bra business or into your sport business? I just want to clarify that. And then, Sharen, I think you said the bra and panty business was up double digits, which is very impressive. Was that driven primarily by PINK? Because you did also call out PINK bra and panty business being very strong and a focus -- one of the changes in the back half of the year versus last year.
Sharen Turney:
We look at the sport bra business in -- what I do is I category all the bra business in terms of total. And then internally, we look at sport bras, PINK bras, VSL bras. We dissect it and segment in many, many different ways. But as we report to you guys, we took it -- look at total sport. We look at total bras all together. What I'm pleased to tell you is that we had growth in all segments of our bra business
Marni Shapiro:
The core VS business. Great.
Sharen Turney:
Yes.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Marni.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Richard Jaffe with Stifel.
Richard Jaffe:
Just a couple of thoughts, one about real estate and one about the direct business. Just want to know about the VS growth. Is it new stores or bigger stores? How is that balancing out? And how many stores are still not rightsized, still not been expanded? And then, given the direct business and its success, is there further investment to be anticipated, whether it's mobile shopping or ship from store, pickup in store, some of these features we've been seeing other retailers add?
Sharen Turney:
So in terms of the Victoria's Secret growth, basically, our growth has -- and in terms of the 4% real estate growth that we have, part of that is new stores, where we're actually taking PINK and segmenting out of the Victoria's Secret stores. So then, therefore, you'll have a free-standing PINK store and a free-standing Victoria's Secret store. The other piece is just making our stores larger and having PINK be side-by-side. We still have, when we look at it, probably 50% to 60% of our fleet still cannot hold all of our assortments. And that's just going to take time because, first of all, you want to get the right real estate. And as I think from a Limited Brands perspective, that we do an outstanding job managing that real estate fleet because we have very few stores that don't make money. So one of the things as I think about our real estate as well, is that how do we -- our dominant real estate, is it actually more leveraged to our core categories? That is -- takes a repositioning in adjacencies with -- inside our store. That is one piece that we're working on as well. We have proven that we can actually pay for these. It gets a very high 20% over return in the first year, which is great from our real estate. So I think that we're on the right track and excited about where we're going. And it's still a lot of opportunity that we have left on the table. When I think about the direct business, we've already shifted probably, I think, 52% -- or about 52% of our business is coming through mobile. So that is something that we are -- have been focused on and that -- continue to focus on and continue to leverage. In terms of the omni-channel work, we actually have -- where you can buy online, return in store -- buy online and return in store. If we're out of stock, we can buy -- from store out of stock, you can buy online. We haven't done the pickup yet, and it's something that we're continuing to think about. But we have already put all those other things in place and have had those things in place over 2 years now.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Richard.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Betty Chen with Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
I was wondering if Sharen and Nick can talk about the second half opportunity, whether that's mainly going to come from conversion or traffic or perhaps on AUR. And then just a clarification for Sharen. With the swim business struggling a little bit in second quarter, just want to make sure that we're exiting the quarter clean in terms of any swim clearance product. Or is there any sort of residual that we should see in the third quarter?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Betty. Nick, you want to start?
Nicholas Coe:
Sure. Betty, I think the way we're thinking about the second half is we still believe we have a tremendous business opportunity in our core businesses. We'd like to think there's opportunities still remaining within the Signature business as we come up against last year. We've got an awful lot of newness flowing. And we continue to see a very healthy customer ship against that core business of Signature. The other side of that is our home business continues to be very strong and our investments in the home business will maintain as we think about holiday. And really, the second half is the time that our home business typically grows, outpaces its first half results. So those are the really the 2 big opportunities for us really, and underpinning all of that is again, wanting to make sure that we have enough flexibility by leveraging the speed model that we have that really provides us the best opportunity to chase into the right business and drive first-quality selling.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, you guys, I'm sorry. I want to clarify something. The -- our direct mobile business grew 72%. It's 25% of the business, not 52%. I reversed my numbers. So I apologize for that. When I think about the growth opportunity in -- the next question was swim. We actually cleaned up swim. And that's what you saw in the second quarter that hit our gross margin. So we do not have residual that will go forward into the fall season within that swim category.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Simeon Siegel with Nomura Securities.
Simeon Siegel:
Just a follow-up on a prior question. Sharen, I think you mentioned expense deleverage in the stores. Maybe without going into the qualitative details of the initiatives, can you just talk about the right way to think about store-level SG&A growth? And then how you think about the long-term VS operating margin level?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
We are, as Stuart had talked about earlier in terms of being the best place to work and the best place to experience, are investing in terms of selling as well as in terms of investing in terms of the stores. Where I see that investment, we're going to continue work on getting the return on that. I think that will probably happen more in the latter part of 2016 as we continue to test and learn. Excited about some of the things that we're seeing. The operating margin improvement and the operating income improvements, obviously, every year, we always set a target that we would like to grow and continue to grow somewhere between 10% and 15%. I mean, that -- those are our goals. We're not there this year for many reasons in terms of some of the investments we're making, in terms of getting out of the product categories. I think it's about $350 million in total product categories that we walked away from. But I think all of this does is to set us up for a lot of success and growth opportunities, both on the top line and the bottom line going forward.
Amie Preston:
Great, Sharen. Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen with Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
Stuart, you guys have been really exceptional at the inventory management over time with the fast-turning programs and also, kind of balancing getting the right product at the right place at the right time. Just where are you in this inning? Are you feeling comfortable? There's been different times in your history when you felt like you could have even bought more. I'm just curious about what we should expect there and maybe how your assortment will evolve with the fast-turning items as a percentage of total.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Oliver, there's not a lot of new news to report, if you will. Our thinking is pretty consistent, which is actually, first and foremost, we sell high-margin stuff, and we want to be in stock. So that -- we never get confused about that. With that said, we've been pursuing strong inventory management through what I call basic disciplines in pursuit of that speed agenda now for 3, 4, 5 years. Our numerical goal, if you will, is to continue to grow inventory slightly slower than sales, to have some spread. But with that said, we want to be careful about it because you go back to point #1, which is we want to be in stock and we want to be well positioned to pursue business. But there's not any major change in our thinking. It's a fundamental part of our business. We managed inventories well in the spring. Our inventories are very clean. As I mentioned in my prepared remarks, we expect inventory per foot, store inventory per foot to be up low to mid-single. You might be curious about the mid-single digit. When you look at things on a 2-year basis, fall inventories will actually be down a little bit more or pretty consistent with the inventory changes in spring. And there's a lot of moving pieces to it. But again, our overall thinking and our overall goals are very consistent, and we'll manage it with discipline.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Stuart. Thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Matthew Boss with JPMorgan.
Matthew Boss:
So on capital allocation, any change in mindset as we think about the consistency of share repurchase versus special dividends and the total return algorithm going forward? And then higher level, what type of comp is needed to actually leverage fixed cost this year versus next year and beyond as we do lap some of the selling initiatives?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Matt. We'll go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So on capital allocation, the thing that is very consistent for us is that any excess cash that we generate, and we generate a lot of excess cash through the profitability and the operating cash flow of the business, we're going to, first and foremost, reinvest in our business. And as you know, we are reinvesting meaningfully in our business to grow it and doing so, we think, in a very profitable way. And then to the extent that we have free cash flow after that, we're very clear minded again about returning that to shareholders. And as you know, first and foremost, is a regular dividend that we want to be very compelling and appropriate for our shareholders. And we've increased that regular dividend very materially or very significantly over the last several years, including a very significant increase over the last 12 months. Then in terms of the interplay between special dividends and share repurchases, we use our judgment. And we use our judgment about our sense of the desire of shareholders and our sense of relative opportunity in the marketplace. One component of that thinking is we do want to generally offset dilution from equity awards with share repurchases. But beyond that, we'll be, what we believe to be opportunistic, obviously, thinking about our view of the intrinsic value of the company. So again, first and foremost is invest in the business; second, any excess coming back to shareholders; third, compelling regular dividend; and then, fourth, some swing between repurchase and specialist, depending on facts and circumstances at the time.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Stuart. I'm sorry.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
And then in terms of leverage point. It's okay. In terms of leverage point, we've mentioned that we're -- and you said on fixed cost and then you mentioned selling expenses. I mean, selling expenses, to some degree, are fixed, and to some degree, you would appreciate that they're variable. So if we put the selling expenses off to the side for a second and really more so think about occupancy expenses, as we've mentioned pretty consistently, we're investing in our business. And that percentage increases, depending upon the business and the period of time, 6%, 7%, maybe in some periods, 8%. But again, that's because we're investing in the business. So that -- on that part of the expense structure, that's kind of the breakpoint in terms of total sales growth. That's not comp, but total sales growth. And then the selling expense will be in season, in annual management. And as you've heard, we're investing in that part of our business to improve the customer experience. And thus, right now, we're seeing some deleverage in that part of our P&L.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart. I think we can take a couple more questions.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Adrienne Yih-Tennant with Wolfe Research.
Adrienne Yih-Tennant:
Stuart, I think this is for you. Can you talk about a number of the input variables that are going in cotton, oil, the devaluation in the yuan from a sourcing perspective and the impact on AUC? When could we see those and of what magnitude, if you can help us out there?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Importantly, and again, consistent in our thinking, while we do think about -- and certainly, I would want you to know that we don't want to overpay for anything. First and foremost, in our mind, as we think about the business and manage the business is creating compelling product that commands very strong retails. And that's where our dominant emphasis is on driving dollars and margin rates. With that said, you mentioned a number of items that do have the potential to drive some favorability in product cost. But I wouldn't describe them as, in aggregate, material. And again, our bigger opportunity is to minimize markdowns and drive compelling product and flow with speed and innovation and quality in our product. And importantly, we will continue to reinvest in the spec and the quality of our products, whether it's in intimate apparel or personal care and beauty, so a lot of moving parts. We're not a cost-driven company as it relates to merchandise or store environment, particularly. And the bigger drivers of margin rate opportunity for us are some of the things we've commented on earlier in the call.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your last question comes from Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Sharen, I hope you could comment on the beauty category. And I'm wondering how confident you are that the improvement in that business -- if we will see improvement in that business in the back half. And if beauty can contribute to improvement in 2H '15?
Sharen Turney:
Janet, I think with the repositioning that we're doing and the exits that we're doing, that I would tell you, I would be very cautious about the beauty business in the back half. I am more optimistic as we go forward. I think we're doing a lot to trade out, a lot of moving pieces going on, and so I would approach it very cautiously.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet. That concludes our call this morning. We appreciate your interest in L Brands. Thank you.
Operator:
Thank you. This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is John, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2015 Earnings Call. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' first quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, May 2, 2015.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our first quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, LB.com. Also available on the website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call is being taped and can be replayed by dialing 1-866-NEWS LTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. This call is shorter today due to our annual meeting this morning. [Operator Instructions] All results that we discuss on the call today are adjusted results and exclude the pretax gain of $78.1 million or $0.23 per share related to the sale of our remaining interest in the third-party apparel sourcing business. Now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We continued to get better in the first quarter and delivered record results. We continued to deliver sales growth, merchandise margin rate improvement and sound inventory management across all of our businesses. Adjusted earnings per share increased 15% to $0.61 versus $0.53 last year.
To take you through the first quarter results, as detailed on Page 4 of the presentation, net sales for the quarter increased 5% to $2.512 billion and comps increased 5%. Foreign currency negatively impacted our sales growth by about 1 point. The gross margin rate increased by 90 basis points to 42%, driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate. SG&A expenses deleveraged by 20 basis points, primarily driven by our investment in store selling. Operating income dollars increased 11%, driven by growth in all 3 of our major business segments, and our operating income rate improved by 70 basis points. Adjusted earnings per share increased 15% to a record $0.61. Foreign currency negatively impacted our first quarter EPS results by about $0.02. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 6. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter down 7% versus last year. We repurchased 1.9 million shares of stock in the first quarter for $170.5 million. At quarter-end, we had $79.5 million remaining under our current $250 million repurchase program. Turning to Page 8 of the presentation. Our forecast for 2015 reflects actions we are taking to grow our business. Growth in Victoria's Secret real estate, increased store selling payroll, driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience and investments in international expansion. It also reflects an estimated negative impact resulting from foreign currency exchange rates. Our second quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase. We expect the second quarter gross margin rate to increase versus last year, driven by improvement in the merchandise margin rate, partially offset by buying and occupancy expense de-leverage. We expect the SG&A rate to de-leverage, driven primarily by an increase in store selling costs. We expect second quarter net non-operating expense, consisting primarily of interest expense, to be about flat to last year at $80 million. We expect earnings per share between $0.60 and $0.65 in the second quarter against last year's $0.63 result. This forecast includes a negative $0.02 to $0.03 impact from foreign exchange. We are also lapping approximately $60 million in sales of non-go-forward apparel and makeup at Victoria's Secret. We expect to end the second quarter with inventory per square foot up low single-digits to last year. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 1 point higher than comps, the growth in square footage and our international business. Foreign currency translation is expected to negatively impact sales growth by about 1 point. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be up slightly and the SG&A rate to be roughly flat to last year. Net non-operating expenses, consisting principally of interest expense, are projected to be about $315 million, roughly flat to last year. Before any discrete items, we estimate our tax rate will be approximately 37.5% versus 36.3% in 2014. The higher projected tax rate in 2015 will negatively impact earnings per share by about $0.07. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 300 million in the second quarter and the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2015 to be between $3.50 and $3.70. This estimate includes an estimated negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.10 to $0.12. We are projecting 2015 capital spending between $800 million and $850 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 9 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in North America will increase by about 4% this year, driven by expansions of existing Victoria's Secret stores and 25 net new openings. Bath & Body Works square footage in North America will increase by about 3%, driven by 24 net new openings and 83 remodels. Total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2015 free cash flow of about $700 million to $800 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, results in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now, I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone.
The Victoria's Secret segment delivered positive results in the first quarter while continuing to make significant changes to the business. We were able to grow both sales and profits despite an $80 million reduction in sales from non-go-forward apparel and makeup. Total sales increased 5% to $1.7 billion and comp sales increased 5%. Operating income increased $10.6 million or 4%, and our operating income rate decreased 20 basis points to 17.1. We finished the quarter in good inventory position, down to last year. Now let's turn to specific channel performance, starting with the stores. We are pleased with the first quarter, as both sales and operating income increased to record results. Sales for the quarter increased 8% to $1.3 billion and comps increased 5. Sales growth was driven by PINK and Lingerie. Our beauty business was down to last year, reflecting the impact of the exiting of makeup category. We were very focused on our core categories. And as a result, delivered high single to double-digit growth in bras, panties and fragrance. The merchandise margin rate in dollars were up to last year, driven by strength in full-price selling. Buying and occupancy expense leveraged versus last year. SG&A de-leveraged, driven by our investment to improve the customer experience. Operating income dollars and rate increased versus last year, a result of higher sales, coupled with margin rate expansion. Now turning to the direct channel. Our first quarter results continue to reflect our strategy to exit non-core apparel categories. First quarter sales were down 6%, as we anniversary roughly $65 million of non-go-forward apparel sales in the first quarter versus last year. Our strategy to distort to core categories where we have our best growth opportunities is working collectively. Sales in bras, panties, PINK, sport, beauty and lounge were up mid-teens. The merchandise margin rate was up significantly during the quarter as we continued to distort the core merchandise margin -- as we continue to distort to the core. The merchandise margin dollars were down significantly -- down slightly to last year. Operating income dollars and rate declined, driven by the decline in sale and an increase in expenses driven by investments in our digital shopping experience. Looking ahead to the second quarter, we will continue our focused, fast and frugal approach in order to optimize our business. We are excited about our fashion offerings this quarter and are focused on driving growth in our core categories. As a reminder, we will continue to be up against the exit of non-go-forward apparel and makeup, which collectively represented roughly $60 million sales in the second quarter last year. In addition, as part of our continuing efforts to align the customer experience, we are shortening the semiannual sale in the direct channel by about 2 weeks, which will negatively impact sales in the second quarter. Thanks. And now, I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were pleased with our first quarter results, where we were able to grow sales and increase earnings versus our record performance last year. We were able to drive growth in sales while improving margin rates and managing inventory levels down.
First quarter sales of Bath & Body Works North America was $613 million, up 5% or $32 million to last year, and comps increased 4% on top of 2% last year. Sales were strong across the quarter, and we were able to drive growth in each of our 3 key businesses:
Our Signature Collection product line, soap and sanitizer business and our home fragrance assortment. We continue to be pleased with the customers' acceptance of products' newness and our in-store execution.
For the quarter, operating income was $97 million, up 22% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 210 basis points to 15.8%, driven by expense leverage and improvement in merchandise margin rates. We were able to effectively pull back on promotional activity versus last year, driving growth in average unit retail. We continue to see strong performance in our BBW Direct channel, which grew sales by 15% and operating income significantly in the first quarter versus last year. Looking ahead to the second quarter of 2015. We will continue to leverage our read-and-react capabilities and provide a world-class in-store experience by constantly pushing differentiation within visual display and maintaining a strong customer service focus. We are optimistic about the trend of our business and confident in our plans, but understand, we need to keep getting better to win in a competitive retail environment. We began May focused on Mother's Day and transitioned into our Meet Me in Tahiti that features new and seasonal fragrances in our 3 key businesses. We ended the quarter with inventory down to last year well-positioned heading into the second quarter and flexible enough to react to customer preferences. We remain focused on disciplined expense management, but we'll continue to make appropriate investments to drive growth in the business. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone.
As in previous calls, I shall give you a brief overview of our progress in our international businesses. As we all know, our opportunity for international growth is significant, and we feel good about the strategic choices we made to be steady and purposeful, to pursue a test-and-learn philosophy that reflects the DNA of our company. We made good progress in the first quarter. And as detailed on Page 10 of your presentation, we opened 29 gross international locations in the first quarter to end the quarter with 420 stores in the segment. For the first quarter, revenue increased 29% to $91.5 million and operating income increased 38% to $21.5 million. At Victoria's Secret International, we are pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. In the U.K., we continued to be very pleased with all of our 10 stores. We'll open another 4 stores this year and the expansion of Bond Street opened today by chance. In the Middle East, we now have 14 Victoria's Secret stores and 1 PINK store. We continue to be very pleased with the results and will open another 8 or so this year. Staying with Victoria's Secret, our beauty and accessories business continues to progress well with 304 locations opened at the end of the quarter, about 1/3 of which are in airports. We've opened 10 VSBA stores in China and are pleased with the results. We'll open about 100 or so stores across the globe in 2015. Turning now to Bath & Body Works. We have 91 stores open, and we continue to be very pleased with their performance. We expect to open another 40 or so BBW International stores in the year ahead. So in summary, continued progress from our international business in the first quarter and we remain focused on the fundamentals, great execution of our brands wherever we go. And with that, I'll say thank you and turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] I'll turn it back over to John.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] And our first question comes from the line of Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
I wanted to ask about, for Bath & Body Works, the increased investment you'll have in store payroll in order to improve in-store selling. Can you help us understand, number one, how much you think that initiative might cost and some of the specific targeted improvements that you're looking for in terms of implementation in the store? And number two, in terms of what you learned when you implemented this on Victoria's Secret, how quickly do you see a payback? How quickly do you see your comps improve or your store managers start to drive incremental sales?
Nicholas Coe:
Lindsay, well, I think the best way to answer that is we are constantly playing around with testing and experimenting with different compensation models, looking to continue to improve the customer experience. We believe wholeheartedly that we are a brand with high emotional contents of fantastic loyal customers, so anything we can do that improves that experience is something that we're constantly looking at. As it relates to how much we've invested in that, I'm not at this stage wanting to talk about that, but more about how we're really improving the customer experience. And as we go through the year, we'll get the full [ph] results and we'll end up with, hopefully, a better experience.
Sharen Turney:
At Victoria's Secret, we're doing a lot of things to really enable the associates, to give the best service and to be the best place to work and to be the most selling professionals that we can be. The things that we have instituted, we do see a reflection in the business. It's all about talent. It's all about education. And we're going to be -- we're going to pursue these initiatives with a vengeance as we go forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Lindsay.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Omar Saad from Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Wondering if we could ask a question on the store expansion strategy versus the new store open, net new store openings. If you can kind update us on how you're feeling those expanded stores. It seems to us in the marketplace that those larger store footprints are really -- appear to be doing really well. And as you think out over time, is the store expansion strategy opportunity even bigger than perhaps you originally thought?
Sharen Turney:
This is Sharen from Victoria's Secret. We have great investments in our expansion stores, and we are very pleased with the results. We continue to see the return on investment even quicker than what we had thought it was. So you're absolutely right. We are continuing to look forward to invest every year on these expansion stores. We're not slowing down. Where we have opportunity and can get real estate, we would move faster. So this is something that we're constantly focused on. I'm excited that we have more ideas than we have real estate today to support the growth. So this is a big opportunity and something, as an enterprise, we continue to be focused on.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Barbara Wyckoff from CLSA.
Barbara Wyckoff:
Sharen, can you give us some more strengths in Swim -- results in Swim, PINK and the active business, please?
Sharen Turney:
Our Swim business for the season has been very strong, growing in terms of double-digits. The PINK business has continued to perform on all cylinders in terms of the bra and panty business, as well as the lounge business. And the sport business is exceeding our expectation, especially as we continue to focus on the bra category.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Barbara.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Anne-Charlotte Windal from Bernstein.
Anne-Charlotte Windal:
Can you talk a little bit about the drivers of merchandise margin expansion go forward? Obviously, you keep having amazing results there. So is it that this one just a pure story around like lower level of markdowns for like more speed-to-market? Do you think that you have pricing power in your key categories? So what's the growth outlook go forward for merchandise margin?
Amie Preston:
Okay, Anne-Charlotte, we're going to go to Sharen and then to Nick.
Sharen Turney:
Anne, we are seeing our biggest margin expansion coming from the fact that we're using our speed, taking less markdowns, doing more regular price selling, less promotional activity. And we continue to be focused on these things.
Nicholas Coe:
Anne-Charlotte, this is Nick. A couple of things. One is, we continue to get better product acceptance, which is helping us to have somewhat of a less promotional experience as we've gone through the quarter, which has been really helpful. The other aspect of that is mix. We've seen a healthy mix in terms of different pieces of the business that have naturally been at a higher margin rate. And then we continue to, as we see things work, our ability to read and react to those continues to be a really powerful tool for us. And that, in general, has helped the margin rate expansion.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
Question on the slight margin decline at Victoria's Secret. Should we expect continuation of that as we go through 2015 and you lap the exit of apparel and makeup categories? And just longer term, maybe talk about the margin goal at this division.
Sharen Turney:
You're talking about the operating margin at Victoria's Secret, was basically the decline in the apparel business, as well as the beauty exits. We had a little bit of FX from our Canadian stores as well. We see that we will be anniversary-ing and kind of being on the upside then and as we go into the fall season, almost completely going -- not going up against any of that exit of apparel, as well as the makeup business. So we do believe that we will be back to the kind of track record that we want to do. And we always continue, in terms of our goals, to get better and better and stronger and stronger.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
The next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question this morning is for Stuart. Stuart, I'm wondering, I think you've been investing in store wages and payroll now for a couple of years. As the competitive set moves to $9 and then $10 an hour, do you anticipate some additional upward pressure on wages as we move into 2016? Or once we finish 2015, do you think you'll be sort of comfortably where you'd like your payroll architecture to be?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So as Nick and Sharen outlined earlier on this call, I mean, we are making investments to improve the customer experience and in-store selling generally. I would say, first and foremost, they're not in reaction to things that are happening on -- happening competitively or otherwise as it relates to wage rates. We just believe we have great brands with pricing power and great store environments. And we think there's sales growth potential through a higher paid, more stable, more motivated, better trained workforce. And we'll get sales growth from that. In terms of the specifics about selling cost as a percent of sales. Obviously, we're continuing to learn. We believe that there is some potential for driving productivity on that over time. But in specific answer to your question, when does the pressure relieve? We're still learning, Kimberly. But again, when we look at the potential to drive sales growth and overall profit growth, we're very clear-minded about that. How it plays through specifically on selling costs through '15 and into '16, we're still learning there, but very optimistic about the sales growth potential through the work that we're doing.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen from Cowen and Company.
Courtney Wilson:
It's Courtney in for Oliver today. Can you just talk about maybe beauty park and some of your other speed initiatives and your learnings there, and how much more improvement on speed you think could be possible?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, the beauty park continues to be a very important component of our business model, allowing us to really, literally day-by-day, understand what is the customer really reacting to and how do we then fulfill her needs. In terms of what does it mean on a go-forward basis, it's really a case of more about how much -- how many styles and which styles do we put on into the beauty park that we believe is where the customer is going to go so that we can react to that. So it's very much, at this stage, it's been open for a while and we've been leveraging it for a while. It's very much business as usual. And as I said at the beginning, I think it's just a critical component of our business model. We expect to continue to leverage it and hope that it continues to allow us to read and react to customer preferences, which going back to the earlier conversation of what has helped margin expansion, that is a piece of it because it really allows us to do what we've always wanted to do, be close to the customer and focused on full-price selling.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. Thanks, Courtney.
Operator:
Our next question comes from line of John Morris from BMO Capital.
John Morris:
My question, I think, for Martin. Thanks for outlining the international progress. I'm wondering about the e-comm from an international standpoint. What are you seeing in terms of demand, if you can you read it, as it relates to the international e-comm. And an update on your capabilities there and new initiatives for this year for e-comm international?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John. I think, actually, we're going to go to Sharen for that question.
Sharen Turney:
John, we're seeing an increase in our international businesses depending on, in certain countries, in terms of where we play. Our capabilities are increasing. We're actually just now relaunching 2, where all of the pricing and being able to understand what the pricing differences and conversion differences are will be in the font of the website, not waiting until the back in terms of checking out. So we're continuing to improve our capabilities. We're continuing to improve our capabilities of shipping from Columbus to anywhere in the world. And so very pleased with the progress that we're making.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick from RBC Capital Markets.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, 2 questions for Stuart on the inventory growing in the second half. Can you maybe talk about how you're thinking about inventories versus your sales expectations, especially as you lap those big inventory declines in the back half? And for Nick, obviously, mall traffic, very challenging. You've been one of the few, I guess, inflationary categories in some of your businesses. What are some other traffic drivers that you have planned? Maybe you could talk about in the back half of the year if mall traffic continues to struggle.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on inventory, we're forecasting that it'll be up low single-digits at the end of spring season. Our commitment, Brian, to grow inventory slower than sales has been there, if you will, for, as you know, more than 5 years. That commitment continues because it's reflective of further progress on our speed agenda and offering the precious, most compelling assortments to customers. So over any meaningful period of time, our goal is to grow inventory slower than sales. We're not looking to have empty shelves and be out of stock, obviously, so we'll try to do that carefully. And as you acknowledge in your question, some of it, you got to look at multiyear comparisons to understand current year percentage changes. So we're -- inventories are in great shape and our commitment to, again, getting more productivity, fast turn, growing them slower than sales is an ongoing commitment.
Nicholas Coe:
Brian, it's Nick. So I think 3 things. First one would be, as I mentioned earlier on, the visual differentiation of the store is a really important aspect, I think, of driving traffic. And so we're very, very committed to, with each floor set, trying to create a very differentiated story to tell. That's the first one. Second is we have a number of interesting product launches coming up as we go through the year, which obviously, we figure out how to market and how to promote in order to drive traffic. And then, thirdly, we are constantly testing different promotional vehicles, different ways of communicating that in different price points. And in some cases, we've been able to price up as we've gone through, which is helped from the margin expansion side. But between those 3 things, those are the things we'll be focused on this year in order to combat any potential traffic challenges.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Mark Altschwager from Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
You talked about shortening the semiannual sale period within VS Direct. Could you just expand on that a bit? What drove the decision? Is it just a result of having the cleaner go-forward assortment? Or is there more to it than that? And then what do you expect the impact to be on the sales growth and the margin rate?
Sharen Turney:
The #1 reason is that for -- as we continue to align our direct channel and our store channel, the direct business had always had a little longer timeframe from semiannual sale. So now, it's about putting power on power, both where the store and direct channels go out at the same time. So it would be reducing the days for semiannual. We think that by reducing the days, that we'll still be able to do close to the same amount of volume. It's just in a shorter timeframe.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Mark.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow from Sterne Agee CRT.
Irwin Boruchow:
Stuart, quick one for you. I think I just heard you mention that you expect the -- your inventories to kind of normalize and start to be up a little bit per square foot. Does that change your -- or I guess, what's baked into your outlook and your guidance for the back half of the year in terms of markdowns and pricing, both at VS and BBW?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, I mean, Ike, what I would say is that we consistently work to plan our business conservatively, both as it relates to the management of inventory and the management of expenses. And again, that mindset's been forefront, if you will, for the last 5, 6, 7 years. So there isn't really any change on that. Obviously, when we execute that strategy well and plan conservatively and leverage our speed agenda and our shorter lead times, as you understand, and we've already talked about some again this morning, that creates opportunity for more full-price selling. And one of the drivers of some expansion opportunity, merchandise margin rates. So I'm not trying to be general in the answer, I'm just trying to share with you how we think about it, and that is how we plan our business conservatively. And then where we've got trend and business, we chase like heck to maximize sales. And through that, we get some opportunity to improve merchandise margin rates. And there's nothing about 2015 on that agenda that's different than how we thought about it for the last 3 to 5 years.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Just a couple of quick ones for Nick. The AUR increases that are driving your comps, maybe you could talk about if that's coming strictly from the fragrance category and if you expect AUR to continue to drive cost? And then you had nice growth in the direct channel, maybe you could talk a lot about investments you're making there to sustain that kind of momentum.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes. So AUR really has come as a result of being slightly less promotional, which has really helped. And it's come across the board. It's not just in 1 category, it's across the 3 key businesses. So being somewhat less promotional. And then as I mentioned earlier on, we've been successful being able to, in some cases, take some promotional prices up, which has also helped on the AUR expansion. In terms of the direct business, really, the investment there is going to continue to be into storytelling so that we are really trying to tell the best story we can, market the products as well as we possibly can. And that has worked extremely well for us. And again, in that category, we've been slightly less promotional, which has really helped. So the investment will continue to be into the site in terms of helping the customer not only navigate it, but really helping the customer understand the breadth of the assortment and our most compelling stories cut through.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick. Thanks, Janet.
Operator:
Next question comes from the line of Simeon Siegel from Nomura Securities.
Simeon Siegel:
Sharen, just to follow-up on your point about significantly higher merch margin rate at VS Direct versus the gross margin contraction. Can you just speak to what elements brought down the gross margin versus with merch margin being up, if there's anything to keep in mind going forward?
Sharen Turney:
So in terms of the -- I think what you're asking me in terms of Victoria's Secret Direct, because of the sales that we did not have from exiting the apparel business, there was a de-leverage in terms of that. So that is -- the margins were up, but because of the true sales that you gave away, you didn't bring those dollars to the bottom line.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America Merrill Lynch.
Lorraine Maikis:
It sounds like you're still fulfilling most of your international business through Columbus. What's the tipping point there in terms of revenue to build the distribution center to fulfill some of the e-commerce and franchise in VSBA demand? And then I know you said you were pleased with China, but any other reads on potential for the rest of Asia?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine. The direct question will go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, as it relates to supply chain for international, as you can appreciate, that's a complex subject. And obviously, one that we're thinking about. We do believe that there are some inherent advantages to having fewer pools of inventory versus more. So that's important. You're asking about scale, obviously, that will depend on, which business we're talking about and the nature of that merchandise. And the last point I just want to register is that we don't feel compelled to "build those assets" ourselves. Meaning that there are third-parties that can help us with that, that will help us with that. And so as we get to those scales, and again, it will depend on the situation category, et cetera, we'll work with third parties to advance our supply chain internationally.
Amie Preston:
Great. Martin, China?
Martin Waters:
Yes, China's been good. We are at 10 stores so far. We're actively looking for real estate for the full assortment of stores, and for BBW stores, we think they'll open in 2016. You asked about the rest of Asia. Of course, we already have over 100 stores in Southeast Asia right now across the VSBA and BBW brands. So we're in the markets of Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, all of those countries, we're actively operating in. The one part of Asia where we haven't gone and we don't intend to any time soon is North Asia. So nothing in Japan, nothing in Korea for the foreseeable future.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin.
Operator:
Your last question comes from the line of Dorothy Lakner from Topeka Capital Markets.
Dorothy Lakner:
Just maybe a broader question on real estate. I think Sharen had mentioned having more ideas than space to put them in. So I wondered if you could just talk more broadly about what's going on in the real estate world. There seems to be a lot of retailers closing stores. Just what's going on there. Why can't you get the space that you want? And what's kind of happening with rents as we see all of these store closings going on?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So I'll take a crack at that. So importantly, as we think about our business, it really comes to life in the most compelling way in the store environment. Obviously, we have good direct businesses as well. But first and foremost, our brands come together most clearly in a physical environment in stores. As you know, our real estate is in very good shape in terms of the percentage of stores that generate profit and cash flow 99% plus. Productivities are very good. As it relates to what's going on in the real estate environment generally, I think generalizations can be dangerous. Obviously, the very best malls are doing very well with growing sales, growing traffic, increasing rents, reflective of the fact that they're dynamic, vibrant environments. We do see a share in outline. We talk about pretty consistently. We see the opportunity for sales growth and profitable sales growth, good returns, good expanding square footage in the United States. As it relates to what I'd call distressed real estate, typically, in the lower volume malls and maybe some others that are struggling with real estate, frankly, that would be real estate that we would be less interested in, obviously. So our real estate locations are generally very good, main-on-main locations in the better malls in the United States. And we're not as focused on how do we get $5 off the cost per foot, but rather how do we make sure that we've got great locations, driving sales growth and profitability, working with the key developers in North America and internationally. So again, generalizations are dangerous. It's not a cost game for us. Obviously, we don't want to overpay for anything. But it's -- the most important economic evaluation is getting a great location and getting the right size and creating the right store environment, and that's what we're focused on. And analytically, where that comes through is in increasing sales productivity, sales growth, good investment returns, good cash flow and profit for our store base business. So that's how we think about it.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Stuart, and thanks, Dorothy. That concludes our call. We hope everybody has a great Memorial Day weekend, and we thank you for your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Michelle, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Fourth Quarter 2014 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relation Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, and good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' fourth quarter earnings call for the period ending Saturday, January 31, 2015. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings.
Our fourth quarter earnings release and related financial information, including any non-GAAP or adjusted financial reconciliation tables, are available on our website, www.lb.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call is being taped, and you can listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and now I'll the turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. We delivered record results in the fourth quarter and full year, a result of solid execution within our business and a focus on the fundamentals. We are pleased that we are able to learn from our underperformance in last year's fourth quarter and build momentum throughout 2014. We had sales growth, merchandise margin rate improvement and sound inventory management across all of our businesses in the fourth quarter.
Earnings per share increased 15% to $1.89 versus $1.65 last year. To take you through the fourth quarter results, as detailed on Page 4 of the presentation, net sales for the quarter increased 7% to $4.069 billion and comps increased 6%. The gross margin rate increased 210 basis points to 45.1%, driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate. The SG&A rate increased by 120 basis points, driven primarily by increased incentive compensation and, to a lesser extent, an increase in store selling cost. Operating income dollars increased 11% to $957 million. The tax rate in the quarter of 35.8% provided $0.07 of upside to our initial guidance and an additional $0.06 versus last year. Turning to our full year results on Page 5. Earnings per share increased 15% to $3.50 per share versus $3.05 last year. Net sales increased 6% to $11.454 billion and comps increased 4% on top of 2% last year. The gross margin rate increased 90 basis points to 42%, primarily driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate. The SG&A rate was flat year-over-year. Page 7 details our full year operating income results. Our full year operating income rate was 17.1%, up 90 basis points to last year. Operating income dollars increased $209.6 million or 12%, driven by growth in all 3 business segments. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter down 10% versus last year. Inventories are clean and well positioned. We expect to end the first quarter with inventory per square foot down in the mid-single-digit range. Operating cash flow in 2014 was $1.786 billion. Free cash flow was $1.071 billion, and capital expenditures were $715 million. We repurchased 1.3 million shares of stock this year for $84 million. As we announced earlier this month, our board authorized a new $250 million share repurchase program, which included the $91 million remaining under the previous program. We also announced the 47% increase in our annual dividend to $2 per share and declared a special dividend of $2 per share. The $2 special dividend and the quarterly dividend of $0.50 a share will be paid on March 6 to shareholders of record on February 20.
Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. Our forecast for 2015 reflects actions we are taking to grow our business:
growth in Victoria's Secret real estate; an increased store selling payroll, driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience and investments in international expansion. It also reflects an estimated negative impact resulting from foreign currency exchange rates.
Our first quarter earnings forecast reflects a low to mid-single-digit comp increase, reflects an updated February comp forecast of up mid-single-digits. We expect the first quarter gross margin rate to be about flat to last year. We expect some deleverage in the SG&A rate, driven primarily by an increase in marketing and store selling cost. We expect nonoperating expense in the first quarter to be about flat to last year at $80 million. We expect earnings per share between $0.50 and $0.55 in the first quarter against last year's $0.53 result. This forecast includes a net negative impact of about $0.03 related to a decline in operating income at Victoria's Secret Direct, as we are lapping about $65 million in sales of non-go-forward apparel from last year. It also includes a negative $0.01 to $0.02 impact from foreign exchange. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 1 point higher than comps due to growth in square footage and our international business. Foreign currency translation is expected to negatively impact sales growth by about 1 percentage point. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be about flat and the SG&A rate to be about flat to down slightly to last year. Nonoperating expenses, consisting principally of interest expense, are projected to be about $315 million, roughly flat to last year. Before any discrete items, we estimate our tax rate will be approximately 37.5% versus 36.3% in 2014. The higher projected tax rate in 2015 will negatively impact earnings per share by about $0.07. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 300 million in the first quarter and the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2015 to be between $3.45 and $3.65. This estimate includes an estimated negative impact from foreign exchange of about $0.10 to $0.12. We are projecting 2015 capital spending between $800 million and $850 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget, is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 13 in the presentation, Victoria's Secret's square footage in North America will increase by about 5% this year, driven by expansions of existing VS stores and 26 net new openings. Bath & Body Works square footage in North America will increase by about 3%, driven by 24 net new openings and 90 remodels. Total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2015 free cash flow of about $700 million to $800 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, results in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. 2014 was an important year for us as we delivered positive results while also making significant changes to our business. In 2014, we exited both the apparel and makeup businesses, which allowed us to focus more on our core and shared product offerings. We delivered strong growth in sales and profitability despite these headwinds.
Now let's talk about our performance in Q4. The Victoria's Secret segment grew both sales and operating income. Total sales increased 5% to $2.4 billion and comp sales increased 4% on top of 2% last year, with operating income increasing $46 million or 10% and our operating income rate increasing 110 basis points. Merchandise margin dollars and rate for the segment increased, led by the growth in the stores channel. We also finished the quarter in good inventory position, down double digits per square foot to last year. Now let's turn to specific channel performance, starting with the stores. We are pleased with the fourth quarter as sales and operating income both increased to record results. Entering the quarter with leaner inventory levels allowed us to read and react with speed and agility. It positioned us to be able to get back into trends, while quickly reducing markdowns. In addition, we executed a thoughtful approach to our promotions. As a result, this approach and leaner inventory levels allowed us to drive significant improvement in our margin rate. SG&A deleveraged, driven by higher incentive compensation and store selling cost. Buy-in occupancy also deleveraged, driven by our continued investment in store real estate. Operating income in the quarter increased, a result of higher sales coupled with margin rate expansion. Now turning to the direct channel. Our fourth quarter results continue to reflect our strategy to exit non-core apparel categories. Fourth quarter sales were down 2% as we exited roughly $80 million of non-go-forward apparel sales in the fourth quarter last year. Our strategy to distort to core categories, where we have our best growth opportunities, is working. Collectively, in sales in bras, panties, PINK, Sport, beauty and lounge were up mid-teens. The merchandise margin rate was up during the quarter as we continue to distort to the core. This increase was partially offset by the exit of non-go-forward apparel merchandise. Merchandise margin dollars were flat to last year. Operating income dollars and rate declined, driven by investments in our digital shopping experience and higher incentive compensation. Turning to our full year results. Total Victoria's Secret segment sales increased 5% to $7.2 billion. Operating income increased by $118 million to $1.3 billion, and the operating income rate improved by 80 basis points to 17.6%. In the stores channel, comps increased 3% with total store channel sales up 6%. The merchandise margin rate increased versus last year. As a result, operating income rate and dollars were up year-over-year. In the direct channel, sales were roughly flat. The merchandise margin rate declined, driven by the exit of non-go-forward apparel and expenses deleveraged. As a result, operating income rate in dollars were down. Looking ahead to 2015, we will continue our focused, fast, frugal approach, managing both inventory and expenses appropriately to optimize our business. We are planning conservatively, while focusing on driving growth in our core categories and leveraging speed to read and react. As a reminder, we will continue to be up against the exits of non-go-forward apparel and makeup, which collectively represented roughly $185 million in sales in 2014. However, we are cautiously optimistic that we will maintain our positive trend. We are excited about our fashion offerings this season and feel good about our bra business in lingerie, Sport and PINK. We are investing in real estate, store selling and digital enhancement to create an even better shopping experience for our customers. We have momentum across the brand coming off holiday and heading into spring break for both PINK and Victoria's Secret lingerie. Finally, we are very excited for the first-ever Victoria's Secret Swim Special, which will air tonight on CBS, so make sure to tune in, featuring musical performance by Maroon 5 and Juanes. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were pleased with our record results during the quarter after a disappointing fourth quarter last year. We were able to drive significant growth in sales while improving margin rates and managing inventory levels down.
Total sales for the quarter were $1.4 billion, up 9% or $122 million to last year. Comps increased 8%, and our direct channel sales grew at 25%. Sales were strong across of the quarter, and we were able to drive growth in each of our 3 key businesses:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business, and our home fragrance assortment. We were pleased with the customers' acceptance of our holiday assortment, the visual appeal of our stores and the in-store execution of our plans.
We were looking to reestablish ourselves as the holiday destination by celebrating the moment better in our floor sets and in our activities. We believe that this approach helps drive a successful holiday period. The momentum from holiday continued with a strong semiannual sale performance and a positive response to our early spring collections. Promotional activity was relatively flat to last year, and we were able to execute a plan that balanced fewer and more impactful activities that generated a strong response from our customers. For the quarter, operating income was $449 million, up 13% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 110 basis points to 32%, driven by expense leverage and improvement in merchandise margin rates. We continue to see strong performance in our BBW Direct channel. Fourth quarter operating income grew significantly versus last year, and annual sales went over $300 million. For fiscal 2014, total sales grew by 7% versus last year and comps ended up 6%. Operating income was $737 million, up 14% versus last year. Our operating income rate improved by 120 basis points to 22%, driven by expense leverage and an improvement in merchandise margin rates. Looking ahead to the first quarter of 2015, we will continue to leverage our read-and-react capabilities and provide a world-class in-store experience to our customers. We're optimistic about the trend of our business and confident in our plans, but understand we need to keep getting better to win in the competitive retail environment. We will flow newness throughout the quarter beginning this month with our Love & Sunshine theme that features new and seasonal fragrances in our 3 key businesses. Our inventories are well positioned heading into the New Year and are flexible enough to react to customers' preferences. We remain focused on disciplined expense management, but we will continue to make appropriate investments to drive growth in the business. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. As in previous calls, I should give you a brief overview of our progress in the international businesses. As we all know, our opportunity for international growth is significant, and we feel good about the strategic choices we made to be steady and purposeful, to pursue a test-and-learn philosophy that reflects the DNA of our company. We made good progress in the fourth quarter, and as detailed on Page 14 of your presentation, we opened 140 international locations in 2014 to end the year with 394 stores in the segment. For the fourth quarter, revenue increased 40% to $105.5 million and operating income increased 76% to $29.5 million.
In 2014, revenue and profit from our Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works stores outside of North America grew substantially. Revenue increased by 51% to $335.9 million and operating income more than doubled to $78 million and 23.2% in revenue. At Victoria's Secret International, we're pleased with the performance of our full assortment stores. In the U.K., we continue to be very pleased with our London flagship store on Bond Street as well as our 9 mall stores. We'll open another 4 stores in the U.K. this year. In the Middle East, we now have 13 Victoria's Secret stores and 1 PINK store open under our partnership with Alshaya. We continue to be delighted with the results and will open another 8 to 10 stores this year. Staying with Victoria's Secret, our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well with 290 locations open at the end of the year, about 1/3 of which are in airports. We've opened 9 VSBA stores in China and are pleased with the results. Mexico is also looking promising with 14 local market VSBA stores now open. We'll open another 120 stores or so across the globe in 2015. Turning to Bath & Body Works. We now have 80 BBW stores under our franchise partnerships, and we continue to be very pleased with the performance of these stores with notable openings in Southeast Asia and Latin America in 2014. We expect to open another 50 or so BBW franchise stores in the year ahead. So in summary, a good year for international in 2014, and we remain focused on the fundamentals, great execution of our brands wherever we go.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments, and at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Michelle.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from Tom Filandro from Susquehanna.
Thomas Filandro:
I was just really had a question about the forward guidance. Stuart, maybe can you tell us on the incentive comp, what have you built into the model for your forward guidance? In line incentive comp, up or down? And maybe can you quantify the impact on the guidance?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So on the guidance, what would -- what's reflected and what we shared externally would be a target or slightly below target incentive comp assumption. Obviously, based on the results that we achieved in 2014, our payouts were, given that they're performance based, were meaningfully above the par target or the base target. In terms of quantification, Tom, it's -- we want to be thoughtful about how we do that. But there is some upside, obviously, and it's not insignificant in the '15 guidance related to IC.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Tom.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Anne-Charlotte Windal from Bernstein.
Anne-Charlotte Windal:
Was wondering if you could give us an update on the speed-to-market initiatives for both Bath & Body Works and the VS in the coming years? So what's going to be the focus? What are the areas of opportunity? How much upside do you continue to see from that?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anne-Charlotte. We'll start with Sharen and then go to Nick.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Anne. We've made -- I'm very pleased with the performance that we really have made in speed. And this year, it's interesting as we're really focused, even taking out more in terms of the front-end product development process, in terms of being able to identify things even later to get them into work later to get closer to the customer. We were fortunate that we bypassed all the -- on the West Coast strikes because we made decisions to air everything. We will continue to air everything in. So I think that we still have opportunities to get better and better in terms of our speed initiatives as we go forward. But the primary focus now is really on the front end.
Nicholas Coe:
Anne, it's Nick. We've made obviously significant progress and where we're really thinking the opportunity for the future will continue to be with the breadth of the assortment that we can get on to the speed model. Also looking at the home business and thinking about the growth that we see in home and how do we make sure that we're seeing that shift also into the speed aspects of that. And then, really, trying to do what we did last year, which was read the business, react to the best full-price selling area and make sure we're using the speed model to speed into the stuff that's obviously selling well and got the higher margin. So we'll continue to focus on that.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick, and thanks, Anne-Charlotte.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
I just wanted to follow up on the progress on speed in the supply chain as well. Nick, maybe you could start by sharing with us the percentage of your current inventory or maybe 2014 inventory that was on a sort of 4- to 6-week lead time. And do you have annual targets for migrating a certain percentage of your inventory to those faster lead times? And if Sharen could give us any kind of similar data that you might have to share on your panty category or your bra category or any other data that we could help to -- that would help us understand where you are today and sort of the annual progress we could see.
Nicholas Coe:
Kimberly, it's really -- to me, the question is more about our breadth of the assortment and less about the inventory. Because, as you know, we keep our open-to-buys very, very open, which allows us to be as nimble as we can. So to me, it's the breadth of assortments that we can get into the speed model so that we've got a broader chance of reading and reacting to a broader selection of products that would then allow us to actually shift the inventory to match that. So in terms of percentages, I'm not going to go into the percentages, but the breadth continues to grow of things that we can get into the pipeline on a faster basis so that we can react to the business. And that was an important piece of why we had a good fourth quarter, that we had a slightly broader amount and we were able to chase into it.
Sharen Turney:
I would say there's similar things, Kimberly, in terms of Victoria's Secret. It's interesting. Each category has different characteristics. We are very fast in panties and continue to get faster in panties. And basically, almost all of our panties today are on some kind of speed program. And those speed programs allow us to read the business on a Monday and be back in stock in the stores within 15 to 25 days. So we continue to hone in, in terms of making sure our toolboxes that we've put together in -- with our vendors are important. We continue to think about the bra business, which obviously has a little bit more complexity to it. That's probably an understatement. And we have worked very hard to -- both in the PINK and lingerie business to be able to read those businesses on a Monday and to get back into inventory -- back into the stores within 4 weeks. We continue to think about different ways in how we can even improve our opportunities across all categories. And as I said earlier, the opportunity as well is how do we -- can even shorten our development time. Now we've already taken probably 4 months out of our development time and believe there's probably another 2 months to continue to work in as we go into 2015. We've done that work and so we're in the piloting stage of that work for this year. Very excited about the opportunities. And it really takes a strong partnership with our vendor and supply base, and we are very fortunate to have a lot of strength in our supply base and with our partners.
Amie Preston:
Thanks a lot, Kimberly.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen from Cowen and Company.
Oliver Chen:
You guys had a stellar holiday. As you think about this and you kind of post-game it, as you always do, where would you articulate some of the bigger surprises were in terms of potential opportunities, even acknowledging it was excellent across the banner? And then, Stuart, just a modeling question. So the comp guidance for low to mid- and full year at low. Is that expected to sequentially kind of moderate towards the back half? I know you're generally very conservative in your guidance, your inventory planning.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Why don't we start with Sharen? So surprises for fourth quarter and talk kind of...
Sharen Turney:
In a holiday, there wasn't -- there weren't really a lot of surprises in terms of how we were thinking about approaching the business. I mean, I think that the holiday season is really just one of promotion out there, starting from the weekend before Thanksgiving all the way through Christmas. We decided that we just did not want to continue to play in that, that we feel that more emotion is better than promotion. I think even the consumer are kind of seeing a fatigue in promotion. The opportunity to win even earlier in the holiday season, whether it's the first part of November, continues to be an opportunity for us. We had a stellar record. Thanks, Black Friday. So I can't tell you that there was really any surprises for us. We were fortunate to pull back on to promotions. And then, therefore, I think the real opportunity as we continue to think about holiday 2015, again, is how do we get more emotion, better products, better fashion, more covetable items, and I think that's what the customer is yearning for versus just this continued slogging it out into the promotional world.
Amie Preston:
Great. Nick, any thoughts?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, the big sort of learning or surprise for us, less of a surprise, more of a learning, was we expected and it happened, which was the peaks and troughs associated with November, her reacting, her behavior in November and reacting to sort of the dynamic of the marketplace and the necessity to purchase in that period. And then, obviously, the trough of early December and the great build in late December. And then the second thing is I think we're really seeing how savvy she is as it relates to leveraging the promotional activity that's out there and figuring out how to really take advantage of it. And we were able to do the same as Victoria's Secret, which was not fall into the overtly promotional activity on an omnipresent basis, but really leverage it at the right times and really leverage it with the traffic that came or didn't come at the right time of the year.
Amie Preston:
Stuart, thoughts on the comp guidance?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Oliver, as you mentioned in your question, we plan our business conservatively. And we do that so that we manage inventories well and expenses well. And then we work like heck, obviously, to do better than that. In terms of sequentially or variation across the quarters, as we outlined in the guidance remarks, the comp assumption in the Q1 guidance is low to mid and for the whole year is low. And Q1 is reflecting what we've seen so far in February. So thank you.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Lindsay Drucker Mann from Goldman Sachs.
Lindsay Mann:
I wanted to ask a question about your Swim business, and obviously, a very big sort of splashy approach with the swim special on tonight. And you've been blowing up my Instagram feed with a lot of swimwear promos. So I wanted to ask about how big is your Swim business today. Why the sort of step change in a much louder promo strategy around Swim? Are you also making changes to the assortment in the product? And how do you think about the ultimate opportunity for this category?
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Lindsay. We've been in the Swim business, especially on the direct channel for quite some time. We have about $0.5 billion worth of Swim business, and we continue -- and it's kind of something that we do kind of under the covers. And we continue to expand our Swim business in the stores -- on the store channel. We're now in about 700 stores. So I believe that this is an opportunity for us to come out strong, to own the spring season. We know that when we're in the Swim business, it drives new customers to Victoria's Secret, which drives new bra customers, and that's what we're after.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Lindsay.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Matt McClintock from Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
Good focus on international Bath & Body Works. Meaningful acceleration in the store rollout there. Just can you talk to the infrastructure to handle that rollout? And what's the impetus for the acceleration there?
Amie Preston:
Yes, we'll go to Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes, Bath & Body Works was the first business that we opened internationally. We've been growing it steadily. We started in the Middle East, moved into Southeast Asia, Latin America. And I would say everywhere that we've opened it, it works. It's the simplest of all of our businesses to scale internationally. So I think it's just a logical progression that we start to speed up the rate of expansion a little bit. I would say, as I always do in international, the rate determining step is the availability of the right real estate. We could go faster with the wrong real estate, and we don't think it's the right thing to do. So we always bracket the guidance, to be honest, so that we are not pinning ourselves to a single number. It really depends on the availability of that quality real estate.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Jeff Stein from Northcoast Research.
Jeffrey Stein:
Two quickies, real fast here. One is, we've had 2 large retailers. Walmart and TJX announced wage increases, and I'm wondering, are you guys raising hourly wages at Bath & Body and Victoria's Secret? And then one for Martin. If you could just kind of address the Chinese opportunity in terms of how many stores potentially you think that market might accommodate.
Amie Preston:
Great. Okay, Jeff. Sharen is going to take the wage rate question.
Sharen Turney:
So thank you, Jeff. First of all, we are not a minimum wage rate company, and our focus is on our customers and making their experience in our stores the best it can be. And really, at a high level, our goal would be able to have more high-quality, experienced and productive sales associates, which then we believe will increase sales and customer loyalty and reduce associate turnover.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen. And Martin, in China?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So we're pleased with China. We opened 9 VSBA stores in January, which makes our entire retail business in China just 4 weeks old. So we're at the beginning of the beginning. I would tell you that we are looking for real estate across all of our brands, and we will be growing our infrastructure. We're growing our talent base. We'll be growing our real estate base in the coming years. My crystal ball doesn't tell me how big the opportunity will be in the end. In the end, I'll just say that we're right at the beginning and there's more to come.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Jeff.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Paul Lejuez from Wells Fargo.
Paul Lejuez:
Was this the quarter that you began accepting foreign currency on your website? And if it was, just wondering if you saw a pickup there in certain countries as a result, specifically, in the U.K., as you've had a bigger store presence there over the last year. Have you seen an increase in U.K. shoppers shopping your website?
Sharen Turney:
We just turned that on, really, at the latter part of the fourth quarter. We've seen a little bit of pickup. It's really too early to really read in terms of how big and how much more it will mean to us. But it's something that we're still very excited about and see a lot of opportunity.
Paul Lejuez:
Any change in the philosophy of going international through e-comm versus stores?
Sharen Turney:
It's something that we continue to talk about and that we are -- probably will come back to later in 2015 with our view in terms of how we might approach that.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Paul.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory.
Dana Telsey:
On square footage growth, given the strong fourth quarter, I know you raised it to 4%. Any thoughts on could it be a little bit higher on what you're seeing with the side by side with White Barn and BBW, either U.S. or internationally? And then with the Swim television showing, could there be additional TV shows from Victoria's Secret, maybe in Sports down the line that could be next?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Dana. We'll start with Stuart on square footage.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Dana, on the square footage growth for 2015, at this point, we are largely locked and loaded, if you will. So I think the estimate that we put out is about right for '15. Obviously, as we always do, we'll look at results and we'll adjust either up or down, more activity or less and more investment or less depending on results. But I would say the '15 numbers are largely baked at this point.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
We're very excited about the Swim show tonight, and I'm just going to hold off on telling you if we would come back with any more television after we see how we -- what our viewership is tonight and what the acceptance is. And so we're -- we will be waiting and seeing. There's always many opportunities for us, but I think it's how much exposure, what's the right balance. And we kind of want to see what happens tonight.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Dana.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Howard Tubin from Guggenheim Securities.
Howard Tubin:
Sharen, maybe can you give us any more detail on the VS Sport category, how that's doing and what the plans are for a rollout over the course of the year?
Sharen Turney:
Yes. We're very excited and very pleased with our Sport business, especially in our bra category. That's where we've seen -- that's where we've been putting a lot of our emphasis and seeing tremendous growth there. We'll have a full assortment in about 189 stores. And we're very excited about this category. It's one of the fastest-growing categories in the direct channel as well, and this is something that is helping them to offset their apparel business. Our biggest challenge in terms of how fast we can grow our Sport business is just real estate. And as we continue to optimize our real state and as we move as we go forward, so we're kind of going slow to go fast. And as you see us expand our stores, you'll see the expansion in 150 stores we're expanding. This spring season, we'll be expanding our sport presentation. Opportunity for growth, very focused on the bra business and excited to see that -- how big we can make this category.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Howard.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Simeon Siegel from Nomura Securities.
Simeon Siegel:
Nick, just given the ongoing improvements and the opportunities you've addressed, can you quantify longer-term BBW operating margin target? And then just, Stuart, what's the right way to think about the other op income line, just recognizing the margin contraction this year?
Nicholas Coe:
Simeon, I think the way we're looking at our business currently is that we've got pretty healthy margin rates, and we've made a significant amount of product upgrades, and the results of that has been we built customer loyalty and we're pretty happy with where we are. I think the opportunity for us is less about that and more about continue to drive top line and the opportunity we get to reinvest back into the product. Because where we've seen quality improvements, we've seen customership go with that or we've seen product acceptance go with that. And we know that, that builds loyalty. So I think the longer-term play is more about continue to drive top line and less about margin opportunity.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. And Stuart, on other segment?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
With respect to the other segment in terms of our view for 2015, we think it'll be pretty consistent in overall result with the result in 2014.
Amie Preston:
Great, thanks. Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Barbara Wyckoff from CLSA.
Barbara Wyckoff:
I'd like to talk about Victoria's Secret margins versus the store. What was the effect on operating margins of vacating the apparel and makeup categories? And could you kind of remind us qualitatively where the margins were in VSD 3 and 5 years ago versus today? And then, Nick, could you comment on margins in BBW versus the stores? And is there any chance you would ever bring that business in-house? I think you're still using a third-party provider for fulfillment.
Sharen Turney:
Sure. It's Sharen. So the -- between Victoria's Secret Direct and the beauty business, for the fall season, it was about $80 million in operating income that we had to -- that we obviously offset and then grew on top of that. So that was kind of the magnitude of the operating income for that time frame. When I think about -- when you go back and you look at Victoria's Secret Direct 3 to 5 years ago, Direct has been, on an operating income basis, between 20% and 21%. So they obviously, this fall season, they dipped. But I believe that we have the opportunity. Now again, we're going to go up against $189 million in sales this year. I think we have the opportunity easily to get back to those numbers. And then I think the other thing is that the opportunity to really grow to go forward. So it'll be easier for us from a margin perspective and operating income, especially in the fall season, where we kind of -- where we took our markdowns. So I see opportunity. But 3 to 5 years ago, Direct was sitting between the 20% and 21% depending on the year.
Amie Preston:
Great, Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
So we're fortuitous -- fortuitously, we're in a good place from operating margin perspective because that channel operates at or above the stores. So there's no need to worry about moving stuff around. And then, as it relates to outsourcing, we're pretty comfortable with where we are currently, but we're always assessing and looking at different opportunities. And as the business grows and it continues to grow, who knows. But at this juncture, no, no plans for that.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Barbara.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Randy Konik from Jefferies.
Randal Konik:
So I guess, a question for Stuart. Do you -- can you go over the puts and takes of the gross margin guidance and how we should be thinking about the different divisions? And then, with regards to the inventory turns over the last 5 years, done a great job of getting that one turn plus up. Do you think we have another opportunity to get another full turn out of the business in the next 5 years? How should we just think -- be thinking about inventory turn potential going forward?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So in terms of the components of the gross margin rate and as we're thinking about 2015, we think that there is a slight opportunity or a small opportunity in terms of improvement of the rate. As we think that through, by way of reminder, the foreign currency impact is a drag on the merchandise margin rate in 2015. But even with that as a headwind, if you will, we think there's slight opportunity in merchandise margin rate. And as you know, based on our investments in stores, the B&O dollar increase is beyond a low single-digit percentage increase. So a little bit of deleverage on B&O. In terms of further opportunity to improve turn, it's not going to be at the same level that we've accomplished over the last few years. We are in business to sell stuff, obviously, and we want to make sure that we're in stock at the right depth at the point of sale. We sell high-margin goods and being in stock is really important to our customers. With that said, we're always looking to get a little bit better and push and understand tradeoffs and further leverage what we're doing with respect to reducing lead times and speed, absolutely. But again, in terms of magnitude of opportunity, there's some, but not at the same level that we've seen over the last 3, 4, 5 years.
Amie Preston:
Great, thanks, and thanks, Randy.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Omar Saad from Evercore ISI.
Omar Saad:
Looking at -- through your slide deck, one of the things that jumped out of me the most was, especially on the U.S. side, the Victoria's Secret side, the difference between expected store count growth and the selling square foot growth. I think one is 2% and the other is 5%, obviously, implying significantly larger stores in the offing [ph]. Can you help us understand kind of the stores -- your strategies around store size and how you're thinking about that, especially since this seems to be coming at a time when you're also seeing your direct business kind of having been -- finally been cleaned up and really starting -- the core of the direct business really starting to grow very nicely? Just want to kind of understand in context how you're thinking about store size versus direct and if that also applies globally or across the other brands.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar. We'll go to Sharen for that question.
Sharen Turney:
Omar, today, our average store selling square footage has been about 6,000 square feet. And we believe that our average sellings could be, depending on the market, probably needs to be almost -- be double that. When you think about the opportunities in growth that we have in PINK and the productivity that we're doing in PINK, we think that there's huge upside in that category. That is where we've been investing a lot of our real estate growth. But at the same time, we're still under-spaced in terms of Victoria's Secret lingerie. And we probably quoted these numbers before that 80% of our stores don't have the full assortment of PINK and don't have the full assortment of Victoria's Secret lingerie. So these larger square footage stores gives us the opportunity, not only to do Victoria's Secret lingerie correctly, it gives us the opportunity to do PINK correctly. And then the 2 emerging categories, when you think about Sport and Swim. So we're at a great place today in the fact that we don't -- we have more proven ideas than we have real estate to support them. So this real estate and bigger store gives us that opportunity. As we have learned over the last 3 years with the bigger real estate, not only have we grown square footage, we've also grown productivity in these larger square foot stores. Now we're very cautious. We don't want to overbuild. We don't want to overbuild the square footage. And so therefore, it gives us excitement and opportunity to grow the categories. And just as I spoke a little bit about the Sport business earlier, we only really have real estate in 189 stores out of the 1,049 that we have to actually do Sport and to do Sport well. So I'm excited about this. It's the right strategy, and I honestly wish I could go faster.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen. And Martin, do you want to comment on international?
Martin Waters:
Sure, yes. So outside of North America, as you would expect, our approach to real estate is substantially similar to that, that we see in the U.S. Of course, we size the stores to the size of the market opportunity. So what you see in Victoria's Secret International is larger stores than the U.S. average to begin with because we've gone to best malls in the world with our stores. So that's what's really driving that phenomena, I think.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Stuart, I got on a little late, so I apologize if someone else have asked this question. But excluding FX, would you be looking for operating margins to move higher this year? And maybe you could quantify if the opportunity is as significant as it was in fiscal '14. And also, I was wondering about -- Sharen talked about airfreighting in product. I was wondering if there will be an opportunity to reduce airfreight as the year goes along and perhaps influence gross margin there. And lastly, Martin, I was wondering if you were considering or have plans to enter Western Europe in the near-term future with company-owned stores.
Amie Preston:
Janet, okay. That was 3 questions, but...
Janet Kloppenburg:
Okay, maybe just the operating margin question for Stuart and then we can get back to that later.
Amie Preston:
That's okay. I'm teasing. We'll start with Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So in terms of the operating margin rate or the operating income rate in the business, we've talked consistently about pursuing a high teens and, ultimately, a 20% operating income rate. And there's nothing about 2014 that doesn't tell us that we have that opportunity, meaning, '14's improvement certainly validates what we think the potential of this business is. You commented on the guidance, would get to roughly flat or just slight improvement in the operating income rate. It is impacted by the FX, $0.10 to $0.12. We can all do that math in terms of what that would mean in terms of operating income rate. So it's a pressure. But we're very focused on driving top line growth and further improvement in the operating income rate, and again, very much believe that there's a lot more potential there for our business.
Amie Preston:
Great. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
I am so passionate to air everything. So there is not going to be a reduction of airfreight. And I'll tell you why I'm passionate about it, because I think that it more than pays for itself in terms of being closer to the customer. You have less markdowns, higher churn rate, better accuracy. So it's not -- I'm sitting on the other side of that if you believe that from a "cost is irrelevant" piece on the airfreight. I think it pays us back in so many other ways and so many other lines on the P&L.
Amie Preston:
Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So Janet, Continental Europe is a lower priority for us. Having said that, we have 2 pilots starting this year, one in Southern Europe, one in Northern Europe, both for VSBA. On the question about ownership, I'm really happy with our capital-light partnership model and no plans to change that.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Ike Boruchow from Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
Not sure if this one's more for Martin or for Stuart. But when we look at the profitability of the international segment, it continues to move higher. Could you kind of walk us through the puts and takes over the next 12 to 36 months there? Is that be -- should that margin rate continue to move higher? If so, is that more a function of your U.K. business beginning to scale and make some profit dollars? Or is that your franchise business continuing to ramp and the royalty flowing through? Any help there would be great.
Martin Waters:
Yes, I'll take that. At the beginning of the international journey, we said that you should expect our rate to be at or above the overall rate of our company, and so that proves to be at 23%. It's complex to model. As you rightly pointed out, we have a mix of ownership and partnership. So I don't particularly like giving guidance on it. I don't expect substantial movement in either direction on this particular number, to be honest with you. But we'll learn. The international business is small. We're still developing. We're still growing the foundation. So I would say, watch this space and stay close.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
So your next question comes from Roxanne Meyer from UBS.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is on the BBW store growth strategy. You've mentioned you're growing at 3% square footage. You've got 90 remodels coming this year. How are you thinking about the opportunity for long-term growth and optimizing productivity at BBW? And what is your strategy as it relates to remodels? What have you seen so far?
Nicholas Coe:
Roxanne, well, on a macro level, the total store growth is less significant when you're talking about a base of over 1,600 stores. Some of that store growth that's projected forward is coming from Canada. I think the more interesting thing is the remodel where we're starting to -- we're beginning the process of really going into the chain and saying there are places that we need to upgrade and start reinvesting in there, which is a great thing because it's about building the brand, building the brand equity and making sure we do what we always say we want to do, which is really be focused on the customer experience. And so this year is the year that we started to do that and that's why you're seeing those numbers increase.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
So our final question will come from Susan Anderson from FBR Capital.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering, on the e-commerce side of things, it seems like BBW is a bit lighter on penetration versus VS. Is there any plans to accelerate that? And then not sure if I missed this, I jumped on a little bit late, but did you guys give any color on AUCs for this year, given the decline in commodity cost?
Amie Preston:
Okay. So we'll start with Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Susan, the -- first of all, the BBW business is younger than Victoria's Secret Direct business. But we have seen very, very healthy growth in that channel over the last few years, well, frankly, since its inception. And we continue to expect that. The really important aspect of that channel for us is, obviously, the ability for us to tell the brand story, to market the brand, to make sure that we're in a 2-way dialogue with the customer and making sure she sees what's most important from us. So that's really where we're thinking of that.
Amie Preston:
Great. And Stuart, on product cost?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
We don't -- there's -- we don't have a view within the business that there's a major plus or minus as it might relate to fuel or other input cost. As you know, we've got a broad assortment base. There's certainly some, a small amount of upside related to fuel, but I wouldn't describe it as material.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Susan. So that concludes our call this morning. Thanks for joining us, and thanks for your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
Thank you, everyone. This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good day. My name is Carmen, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Third Quarter 2014 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] Thank you. I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Carmen, and good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands third quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, November 1, 2014.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our safe harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our third quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, www.lb.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our third quarter results were very solid and represented a record for the company. Total sales increased 7%. Comps increased 5% on top of the 3% increase last year. And operating income dollars increased 35%.
Earnings per share increased 42% to $0.44 versus $0.31 last year. As you know, holiday in the fourth quarter are critical, representing over half of our earnings for the year. While we have momentum in our business and we are well positioned, last holiday was challenging. Therefore, we remain focused on the execution of retail fundamentals, and we will continue to manage the business with discipline. Turning to our third quarter results in more detail. Total sales increased 7% to $2.319 billion and comps increased 5%. The gross margin rate increased by 130 basis points to 40.8% driven by an increase in the merchandise margin rate and slight buying and occupancy leverage. The SG&A rate improved by 110 basis points to 28.6%. Operating income dollars increased by 35% driven by our growth in all 3 of our major segments, and our operating income rate increased by 260 basis points to 12.3%. Earnings per share increased 42% to $0.44. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter down 12% versus last year. We are very comfortable with our inventory position. They are clean and in good shape. Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. Our guidance for the fourth quarter is consistent with our prior view. As previously announced, our full year forecast includes a negative impact of about $0.10 to $0.12 from the exit of certain apparel merchandise and makeup and about $0.05 of incremental nonoperating expense, primarily interest, for a total of $0.15 to $0.17 of pressure. Importantly, we expect a more significant impact from the exit of apparel at Victoria's Secret Direct in the fourth quarter. We have sold through the majority of this product, so the magnitude of the sales decline will increase in the fourth quarter. Whereas direct sales increased by 2% in the third quarter, our expectation is that sales will decrease in the high-single-digit range in the fourth quarter, which will negatively impact earnings per share by about $0.05. For the fourth quarter, we expect earnings per share between $1.61 and $1.71 against last year's $1.65 result. Our fourth quarter earnings forecast reflects a low-single-digit comp increase. We expect fourth quarter gross margin rate to increase, primarily driven by an improvement in the merchandise margin rate. And we also expect the SG&A rate to increase, primarily driven by a forecasted increase in incentive compensation as last year's payout was below target. Nonoperating expenses, consisting primarily of interest expense, are projected at about $80 million in the fourth quarter. Our projected tax rate is 38%, and our weighted average shares outstanding are forecasted at about 299 million. We expect to end the fourth quarter with inventory per square foot down in the mid- to high-single-digit range to last year. For the full year, we are projecting positive low-single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 2 points higher than comps due to growth in square footage in our international business. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be up to last year and the SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect earnings per share for the full year 2014 to be between $3.21 and $3.31 per share. We are projecting a 2014 CapEx of about $750 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relate to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 12 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret's square footage in North America will increase by just over 5% this year driven by expansions of existing VS stores and the opening of 33 new PINK stores and 20 new Victoria's Secret stores. Total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2014 operating cash flow of $1.5 billion to $1.6 billion and free cash flow of about $750 million to $850 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, results in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our third quarter results are detailed on Page 14 of your presentation material. The Victoria's Secret segment grew both sales and operating income in the third quarter. Total sales increased 6%, and comp sales increased 3% on top of 4% last year with operating income increasing $40.7 million, or 27%, and our operating income rate increased 220 basis points. Merchandise margin dollars and rate for the segment increased with the strength in the stores channel offsetting the impact of discontinued apparel merchandise in the direct channel. We also finished the quarter with inventories down double digit to last year.
Now let me give you a recap of each channel, starting with the stores. In the stores channel, third quarter sales increased 7% and comps were up 3%. Operating income increased over 30%. Sales growth was driven by lingerie and PINK. Our Beauty business was down from last year, reflecting the impact of the exiting the makeup category. We were very focused on our core categories, and therefore, have had solid momentum in bras, panties and fragrance complemented by strong growth in PINK loungewear and Sport. The store's merchandise margin rate increased during the quarter. We continue to focus on the fundamentals of frugal expense and inventory management. As a result, SG&A expense leveraged versus last year while buying and occupancy held flat. Now turning to direct. Our third quarter results reflect our strategy to exit noncore apparel category. Third quarter sales were up 2%. The merchandise margin rate was down and the operating income rate declined slightly. Merchandise margin dollars and operating income dollars were roughly flat to last year. Our strategy to distort the direct channel to core categories where we have our best growth opportunities is working. Collectively, sales in bras, panties, PINK, Sport, beauty and lounge were all up in mid-teens, and the merchandise margin rate increased during the quarter. These results were partially offset by the exit of non-go-forward apparel merchandise. As we transition to the fourth quarter, we are excited about our upcoming launches and product offerings. We have strong assortment still with both self-purchase and gifting opportunities for the holiday, and we are looking forward to providing our customers with excellent in-store and online experiences. However, as Stuart mentioned earlier, we have sold through the majority of our noncore apparel in direct. As a result, we expect to see a high-single-digit sales decline in direct in the fourth quarter. Following Black Friday weekend, we are very excited for the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, which will be held in London this year and will air on December 9, featuring musical performances by Taylor Swift, Ed Sheeran, Ariana Grande and Hozier. In summary, we are pleased with our performance in the third quarter. We know that the majority of the season is ahead of us. Therefore, while we are cautiously optimistic, we know that we must remain intensely focused on our customer and execute the fundamentals in order to deliver our goals. Thank you. And now I will turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were pleased with our third quarter results where we were able to grow sales and increase earnings versus our record performance last year while effectively managing inventory levels about flat to last year.
Total sales for the quarter were $650 million, up 9%, or $53 million, to last year. Comps increased 7% on top of 2% last year. The overall assortment to shop activity was able to drive sales growth in a competitive retail environment. We continue to be pleased with our -- with the customers' acceptance of product newness across our 3 key businesses:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business, and our home fragrance assortment. For the quarter, operating income was $93 million, up 30% from last year. Operating income as a percentage of sales was 14.2% in the quarter and was up 230 basis points to last year driven by expense leverage and improvements in merchandise margin rates.
We were also pleased with the performance of the BBW Direct channel during the quarter. Total sales were up 16%, and operating income grew significantly versus last year. Looking ahead to the fourth quarter, we're excited about our holiday assortment and are confident in our approach following a disappointing fourth quarter last year. We will leverage our read-and-react capabilities, provide a world-class in-store experience, and reestablish ourselves as the Christmas destination by celebrating the moment better through the floor sets and activities. We will flow [ph] newness throughout the quarter, beginning this month with our newest signature fragrance launch, A Thousand Wishes, along with new seasonal fragrances in our 3 key businesses. Our inventories are well positioned heading into the quarter and are flexible enough to react to customers' preferences. Expenses are well managed, but we will continue to take the appropriate investments to drive growth in our business. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. Turning to our international segment, we continue to be pleased with our results and progress. Reported revenue increased by 34% to $80 million, and operating income increased 60% to $16.1 million. The operating income rate increased to 20.1%. You'll recall that results in this segment include both our wholly owned U.K. business, and the majority is in our franchise models in other geographies.
At Victoria's Secret International, we continue to be pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. In the U.K., our London flagship store on Bond Street continues its exceptional performance, and we've begun construction to expand the store. Our 8 mall locations are also doing well, and we'll be opening one more store this year in the U.K. Elsewhere in the world, the 8 stores under our Alshaya partnership continue to do very well, and we'll be opening another 7 stores this year across the Middle East region. Our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well, and we ended the quarter with 245 stores open, and we're on schedule for just under 300 stores by the end of 2014. We're also on track to open 9 VSBA stores in China in January. And as a reminder, all of our VSBA stores are franchised. In Bath & Body Works International, we are now up to 67 stores outside of North America, again, all franchised. We continue to be very pleased with performance of the business and will open another 18 stores this year. It's peak season right now, so we're focused on store execution. That's all from international. With that, I'll say thank you, and I'll turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] And with that, I'll turn it back over to Carmen.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] And your first question comes from the line of Jennifer Davis with Buckingham Capital.
Jennifer Davis:
I was wondering if you could talk a little bit more about the Bond Street store. Can you remind us when you started construction there? And is it having any impact on the margins in your international division and when you expect it to open?
Martin Waters:
Yes, I'll take that one. So we started construction about 3 months ago. Is it having an impact on business? Not much. We have some holdings up inside the store, which have meant that we've had to give over some space to the construction project. But most customers wouldn't notice the difference. There are a few less fitting rooms, but it's not really noticeable to the human eye. Does it have an impact to our margin? No, but we did take some accelerated depreciation, nothing particularly significant. The new space will open at 3 separate times. The first amount of space will come to us just before Christmas this year, then we'll get another amount in early spring and then the final reveal will be sometime around April or May of 2015.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. Thanks, Jennifer.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
I'm not sure who I'd direct the question to. But my question will be on the VS Direct side. Understand the exiting of certain businesses impacts the sales for Q4. How should we think about how the trajectory of VS Direct into the first half of next year, the go-forward categories are growing nicely, but when do we finally get clean -- clean enough to really see that number go in the right direction? And also how do we think about international opportunity with e-commerce kind of ramping up as well?
Sharen Turney:
Ike, it's Sharen. Thank you very much. We will continue to go up against the non-go-forward apparel business all through this spring season. So we will -- and we will not finish anniversary-ing this probably till next October. Obviously, we feel strong about our strategy and think that we can offset some, maybe all, of that apparel business as we go forward with the shared categories, and that is the strategy. As we think about the international opportunity, we have already put things in place to help us to better service our international customer through our domestic website. We do believe that's an opportunity and something that we can talk more about in 2015.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Susan Anderson with FBR Capital Markets.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering at the Analyst Day you talked about doing a better job on the BBW promo in the third quarter. Is there potential for this in the fourth quarter also? And maybe if you can talk a little bit about the opportunity better.
Nicholas Coe:
I'm sorry, Susan. It's Nick. Would you mind repeating the question? It's hard to hear you.
Susan Anderson:
Sure, yes. I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about how you're kind of changing up the BBW promos. It sounds like you did a much better job in the third quarter and maybe if there's opportunity in the fourth quarter.
Nicholas Coe:
Sure. We -- based on the customers' acceptance to product and the trend that we were on during the last few months, particularly from late spring, it's allowed us to pull promotions back slightly. So we've been slightly less promotional than we were last year, which is a good thing, and has helped from a margin rate and just from a brand equity perspective. As we go into the fourth quarter, it'll be -- we're planning at this juncture for it to be a comparable level of promotional activity but expressed in a different way so it feels different to her. So it should be a comparable amount but feel different in terms of cut-through as we think about how promotional the marketplace is going to be at that time.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick. And thanks, Susan.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of John Morris with BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
Martin, question for you. Checking on this, I believe, you guys are turning on global e-comm in local currency very soon if not already. Would you anticipate a nice uptick in performance from that? And can you -- really about fulfillment, can you handle fulfillment of that out of Columbus? What plans are you considering on a go-forward basis as that progresses? And when would you all look to turn on e-commerce in local language as well?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John. I think we're going to have Sharen take that question.
Sharen Turney:
Listen, I think that we have turned on and been very excited about the results that we're seeing so far with us really trying to make it much easier for our customers internationally to -- as we talk about the local currency. As we think, as I've said before, we believe there's a big opportunity within our e-commerce strategies from an international perspective. That is something that we will talk more about in 2015.
John Morris:
And fulfillment?
Sharen Turney:
Same thing. Right now, we're fulfilling everything from the U.S. just as we do all of our international properties. And as we go forward, we're looking at other opportunities, and that's something we'll talk more about in 2015.
Amie Preston:
Thanks a lot, John.
Operator:
Yes, your next question comes from the line of Matt McClintock with Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
Sharen, you talked a little bit about the exit of makeup, and I was just wondering if you could remind us where we're at in terms of the Beauty business -- in terms of the margin opportunity for the Beauty business. How much margin opportunity potential do we have going into this holiday season and maybe next year to improve profitability there. And then when you think about core drivers of the Beauty business going into holiday season, can you maybe just talk about what you're most excited about?
Sharen Turney:
Thanks, Matt. Number one is that we have a very large profitable Beauty business today. And as we think about the opportunities that we have going forward, our total focus is on fine fragrance. And we have seen increases within our fine fragrances. Our launches have been bigger and better than they ever have been, so we are excited about the opportunity as we go forward. When I think about the core drivers going into this holiday, number one is going to be all the new fragrances that we've launched plus the fragrances that have been in our foundation. And when I think about those fragrances, such as Tease, Dream Angels, those we are actually seeing some high-single-digit, double-digit increases in those fragrances, plus the new fragrances, which we just launched, Scandalous, which was the largest fragrance launch we've ever had. So we feel very confident in terms of that business as we go forward. The second core business that we have is the gifting business, and that gifting business is always a little hard to predict as that it really happens in the last -- in the first 3 weeks and going into the last week of Christmas. So we have some early indicators, but we're still cautiously optimistic as we think about going into the holiday season.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen. And thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, it seems like the third quarter profitability has really moved meaningfully higher as the revenue in the quarter has gone from about $2 billion a few years ago to $2.3 billion. Your operating income in the quarter has almost doubled with that. It would seem only 15% move higher in the revenue picture. So I'm wondering, is it just that you're better able to flow more of the incremental revenue to the bottom line in the quarter, better able to cover your fixed expenses? Or have you taken a different philosophy to sort of expense management and really tightening up the P&L?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Kimberly. You know what, to be honest, I wouldn't say that there's a "different philosophy" on third quarter expenses. I think, as you mentioned in your question, it's really been driven by revenue growth and healthy margins, merchandise margins, in the third quarter. You're right to point out that we've grown the revenue and the profit in the third quarter meaningfully over the last few years. And Sharen or Nick could elaborate on this, but one of the things that the business is trying to do is to make the most of all meaningful selling periods, including those out of traditional holiday. And I think the business did some very smart things, VS and BBW, this third quarter to drive volume and profit. But in terms of, is there a different philosophy or mindset around expenses in the third quarter versus the rest of the year? No. It's to manage, obviously, expenses with discipline and forcing tradeoffs, but I wouldn't say that there's anything unique in the third quarter with respect to that. It's really been about volume and trying to make -- create events and maximize sales and margin in the third quarter.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Barbara Wyckoff with CLSA.
Barbara Wyckoff:
Could you -- this is for Sharen. Could you update us on how many stores or malls have full PINK assortments this year versus last. And also, how many Victoria's Secrets have full active assortments versus last year.
Sharen Turney:
Sure. We haven't really moved the needle a lot in terms of full assortment PINKs in Victoria's Secret stores where the opportunity has been -- has had -- we actually moved the PINK into freestanding real estate. So today, we have -- when we think about it, more than 800 stores do not carry all of the lingerie assortments, and, more than 650 stores do not carry all of the PINK assortments. Now we have grown the PINK real estate by opening up the full PINK -- the freestanding PINK stores. When I think about the Sport business, we will have the full assortment in about 181 stores for fall. And then we have the bra assortment, just a very small bra assortment in most -- in the rest of all the stores, but it's only about a cabinet to 2 cabinets, and we do believe that there's a lot of opportunity. So therefore, you can surmise by that, that we've proven, with some real estate expansion, that we have been able to grow the business and return on that investment. And we are not seeing the end of the light of that tunnel yet and still look forward to these opportunities that we do have in front of us.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Barbara.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America Merrill Lynch.
Lorraine Maikis:
Stuart, could you discuss the key drivers behind the increase in free cash flow guidance this quarter?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It'd be the increase in net income and a tighter view on the ending inventory balance for the end of the year would be the 2 most significant drivers. So it'd be the flow-through, the Q3 beat, and again, tightening up working capital assumptions for the whole year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Jennifer Black with Black & Associates.
Jennifer Black:
I wanted to know -- I know you've been focused on increasing productivity of your sales associates, both at Victoria's Secret and BBW. Can you talk about how you're measuring your associates today? Is it sales per hour? Are you changing incentives? If you could each talk about what you're doing to empower your sales associates and increase their productivity. And then I also wondered if Alshaya and your -- or your other franchisees are also utilizing the same strategies.
Sharen Turney:
Jennifer, thank you for the question. As we think about our stores and our selling associates is that, obviously, we want everyone -- everybody to have careers with Victoria's Secret, and they are. We are so fortunate to have such passionate sales associates. When we think about productivity, we really do measure it by our SPAH, they're selling productivity per average hour, and really looking at how do we make sure that we have our best people, our most productive people where we have the most traffic. And it's something that we have the capability of measuring, we have the capability of tracking our sales associates' sales. Therefore, we can coach them, we can ask them what training that they need so that we can give them the tools necessary to help them to be more productive. And it's an ongoing initiative, and we're just at the very beginning, at the beginning of the beginning. And as you know that at this time of year, it -- at holiday, we start to hire new seasonal people. So we started it, and we're going to kind of continue to play with it through holiday, but then it will really be even more in a detailed manner as we start for spring 2015. So we are very excited about the opportunity that we have within our total selling organization.
Jennifer Black:
Great. And Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
It's a comparable story, not much different. We continue to test all sorts of different things to drive different results, which is part of our core DNA of how we run the business, but it's a comparable story.
Jennifer Black:
Is this newer for you?
Nicholas Coe:
Is it newer for BBW?
Jennifer Black:
Yes.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes -- I mean, we're -- fundamentally, we're really watching very closely to what Sharen is doing with the business, trying to take the learnings from that. And then we're a slightly different business model. We're obviously smaller stores and so trying to understand which pieces of that equation make the most sense for us. So we're in a fortuitous situation where we can do some of our own things and get great learnings from Sharen's business.
Martin Waters:
And as you know, internationally, our goal is to operate a replication model. So fundamentally, the way that the stores operate overseas is the same as the way that they operate in North America. With that said, we do experience different cultures, different pay scales, different employment norms, different legal frameworks, et cetera. But that mean that our partners do, in fact, manage the way that they operate their people independently from the way that we do.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Jennifer.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Paul Lejuez with Wells Fargo Securities.
Paul Lejuez:
Now that you've had some of the VSBA stores open for a couple of years, can you talk about the comp performance of some of the older classes? And also wondering, as you bring in new partners, I'm just wondering if the terms of the arrangements have changed just from an economic perspective since you started down that path.
Martin Waters:
Yes, thanks, Paul. I'll take that. We'll have 300 VSBAs by the end of this year, and we take so many different cuts at performance of that business. We look at it by age, we look at it by geography, we look at it by size. We look at it every which way you can see. And the patterns are remarkably consistent. We do see positive comp growth, and we do see great signs of encouragement that the new stores get even better than the original stores. So there isn't really much of a story to tell there, Paul. In terms of new franchise partners, well, we've already filled most of the world with the partners we're working with. So we're not actively out there seeking new partners. But I would tell you that we're pleased with the terms that we went with originally, and we don't anticipate any change to those with new partners.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Paul.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Christian Buss with Credit Suisse.
Christian Buss:
Yes, so I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about some of the initiatives you have towards faster lead times and how much more progress you have to make there. Maybe the way of asking it is, what inning are you in, in the game towards getting a fast-turn supply chain in progress.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Christian. So we'll start with Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Christian, as we started this journey, we have learned so much, and we have made so much progress. And I still think that we have much more to do. I think when we think about the back end of that just cutting and selling goods and getting goods here and the thinking about testing and reading, reacting; very, very good progress. When I think about the opportunities to continue how we think about designing on the front end and raw materials, we still have a lot more to do and a lot more opportunity, which I'm obviously very excited about. So the inning question. So I guess, we're in, I don't know, 6, how many innings are there in a baseball game?
Amie Preston:
Nick, do you have anything you want to add?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, I think, Christian, it's a good question. And I think the easiest way for me to answer that, if you look at our business in September and October, we designed a September floor set to live for about 4 weeks, and it lived for about 9 weeks. And the way we were able to do that was by leveraging our speed model so we could replenish into that and maximize the opportunity. So I think the question is less about how much faster can we go. The question for us is probably how much more breadth of assortments are we able to put on to that speed model that will allow us to have a greater degree of the business being faster versus the business being faster, if that makes any sense.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Betty Chen with Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
I was wondering, Sharen -- sorry, if I missed it earlier, but I think Nick had addressed maybe some of his opportunities for the fourth quarter and then spoke to maybe promotions being flattish year-over-year. Can you talk to us about that for Victoria's Secret and also where we are in terms of margin and what opportunities you see longer term?
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Betty. I think, number one, we have taken all the necessary steps and the learnings from last year to be very well prepared and very, very well positioned for the fourth quarter. Last year, we were promotional. This year, we have a lot of things planned. We have things that we've really engineered. We're going to read the business day-by-day. Some things we may not have to. Some things we may -- if we need to drive more traffic, and most of these have been margin engineered. So we're going to take it one day at a time. We have a lot of contingencies in place, and we're going to take full advantage of maximizing this holiday season the best that we can.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Betty.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Mark Altschwager with Robert W. Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Could you talk about your early reads from the Perfect Christmas campaign at BBW? How is that assortment performing versus your expectations? And similarly, we've seen the greater focus on accessories at VS. Any thoughts you can share on the consumer's reaction to that as well would be great.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Mark, we'll start with Nick on the question about Perfect Christmas.
Nicholas Coe:
So we've literally just launched that. And as we said in the opening comments, we're excited with our assortment in terms of product acceptance. We've had good momentum during the last few months, and obviously, there's a long way to go as it relates to the rest of November and December. But so far, we're happy with her reaction to Christmas specifically.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
In terms of the accessory business, we've always been in the accessory business and really started trying to maximize it even more so last fall season with the launch in Victoria. We've seen nothing but -- us to be able to gain momentum in that business domestically, and I'll let Martin talk about from an internal perspective as well, but it's a business that we still think that has a lot of legs.
Martin Waters:
Yes, it's a great business for us internationally. It represents about 1/4 of our sales in the VSBA business, business that responds well to fashion and newness and to the core equities of the Victoria brand. Yes, a good business.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, guys.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Jeff Stein with Northcoast Research.
Jeffrey Stein:
One question for Stuart. Looking at the international business, you've got kind of an eclectic mix of revenues there with stores, with royalties and with wholesale, and I'm wondering if you could just kind of give us some guidance in terms of how we should think about modeling each of those revenue streams because if you look at the sequential pattern of margins, you've been down -- obviously up significantly year-over-year, but you've been down sequentially. And as we kind of move ahead with the mix of growth in franchise stores versus company-owned, how should we think about modeling margins.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, I think the best overall advice that we would have for you, Jeff, is to look at our guidance that we're giving on store growth and to develop an understanding, and we've certainly tried to be helpful in that regard, an understanding of what the franchise economics look like versus what company-owned economics would look like, particularly in a startup mode in different countries. And -- but really, the key source of input, if you will, would be our guidance that we've -- Martin gave a few weeks ago at our annual update about our growth in stores and then, again, understanding the sources of revenue and the margin profile of the franchise business, which is different than a company-owned business. But in terms of breaking that down in detail on the call, the best advice we can give you is to really follow that store growth and use your understanding of the different economic profile of those 2 business forms would be my best advice.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jeff.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Thomas Filandro with Susquehanna.
Thomas Filandro:
So for Sharen, just a quick question on the port congestion, whether you're seeing any receipt-related issues or cost there. And Nick, if you could, I think you continue to experience very strong DTC growth. I was curious if you could give us a snapshot of the channel profit performance for the quarter, how that compares to last year and possibly, as well, how it compares to the brick-and-mortar business.
Sharen Turney:
Zero port congestion for Victoria's Secret.
Amie Preston:
Okay. Thanks. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
The profitability is about comparable, Thomas. So we continue to see nice top line growth as we mentioned earlier on in the speech at around 16%. It's a comparable profitability. And the real driver for us in that business, without a doubt, is we have a great relationship with the customer, and the opportunity to tell really good emotional stories and lift that side of it is kind of first and foremost. And as a nice outcome, we continue to drive nice sales growth in that. But fundamentally, it's a comparable level from a profitability perspective.
Amie Preston:
Thanks very much, Tom.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Simeon Siegel with Nomura Securities.
Gene Vladimirov:
This is actually Gene Vladimirov on for Simeon. I was wondering if you could give us some color around the currency environment, how that may have effected you, whether you guys have seen a slowdown in sales abroad. And then following up on that, maybe any changes, either in the short term or in the long term, regarding the international expansion.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So with respect to currency, the good news for us is that it doesn't impact us as much as it does many other retailers. And that's in part because much of our international business is done on a franchise basis, and so the economic flow into our business is a royalty off the top versus the full amount of retail sales. Obviously, there's been pressure, generally speaking, related to business in Canada, some pressure economically on the business. It's been partly offset by some favorability, at least in some periods, related to the British pound. But the most important thing I'd want to register through all that is the impact on our business, to this point, really hasn't been that material. It's been a small drag on the business but not in the context of the overall company something that I would describe as material.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon (sic) [ Gene ].
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Anna Andreeva with Oppenheimer Capital.
Anna Andreeva:
My question is on La Senza. I was hoping to get some color on just the opportunity to revitalize that business. I think you mentioned at the Analyst Day a potential for store growth in the U.S., just some update there. And Stuart, inventories have been so well managed, I'm not sure if you mentioned, but how should we expect inventories ending 4Q?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anna. We'll start with Martin for La Senza.
Martin Waters:
Yes, hi, Anna, thanks for the question. Yes, La Senza continues to be a work in progress. I will tell you that we had a decent quarter in quarter 3. Sales were up, margin was up, inventory was well down. So we go into the season with decent momentum and optimism. But as everybody knows, we make our money in the fourth quarter, so it's all about what's in front of us rather than what's behind us. So I'd say I'm cautiously optimistic and looking forward to the fourth quarter. As far as stores in the U.S. are concerned, this time last year, we were expecting to open stores in 2014. Holiday didn't go the way we wanted it to. So we canceled that, and we said no, we won't do it. The same would be true for now. We'll see how holiday plays out, and we'll revisit that decision in January or February 2015.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
With respect to inventory at year end, on a per-foot basis, we believe we'll be down mid-single to high single. On a 2-year basis, about flat, and that's in line with sales per foot on a 2-year basis as well. So we feel like the inventories are in good shape, and we've done a good job balancing, obviously being in stock with making sure our assortments are fresh, and we have good ability to read, react and chase.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart, and thanks, Anna.
Operator:
Your next question is from the line of Omar Saad with OSI Group (sic) [ ISI Group ].
Omar Saad:
Wanted to ask about the fashion show in a couple of weeks in Europe. I'm sure it's the biggest PR kind of event you've done internationally to date. But can you kind of frame for us what sort of marketing activities or PR activities have been in place for the brand internationally to this point? Or does this really mark the kickoff of a more sustained significant and aggressive brand campaign outside of the U.S., if you could kind of put that into perspective. And then potentially, as you look down the road, have you started thinking about fashion shows maybe in other parts of Europe or even Asia in future years?
Sharen Turney:
This is Sharen, Omar. When I think about the fashion show, we always have -- we have a great partner with CBS. It is -- we have international PR that we're working on. And it's even if -- no matter where the fashion show is, whether it's in the U.S. or whether it's international, it is one of the highest-rated shows and watched shows around the world. And we have continuing pickup in the press far beyond and it has far reach beyond holiday. So we have a very exciting lineup, as I spoke earlier about the entertainment this year, getting great buzz from the press in London. We have, obviously, in-store events that we plan. We have watch parties that we plan not only internationally but also domestically. So we are very excited about this international show. And this is actually the second time that we have gone international with the show. The first show was in Cannes. So it is -- obviously, we're very proud of the fact that we've been able to develop the show, and so we're very excited about it. When you think about the opportunities of where next year's show will be, the world is our play station. So you never know. So stay tuned.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Your final question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer with UBS Securities.
Roxanne Meyer:
Sort of a follow-up on Kimberly's question earlier. Years ago, you earned just a few pennies in 3Q. And now clearly, you've grown 3Q to be much more important. And Stuart, as you mentioned, increasing volumes has been a part of that. And your ability to leverage your speed model really seems to be at an inflection point. So I'm just wondering how your speed model is changing the way you think about quarterly contribution to full year sales and profits, and if you think it could shift it all over the next few years.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, I mean what I would -- I don't -- while the speed initiative and the work that we've been describing to you over the last few years and that Sharen and Nick commented on again today, that drives value throughout the year. Certainly, and it's a stat we shared a few weeks ago, going into the fall season being 90% open, this is on the 1st of August, we were 90% open for holiday business in terms of open to buy, that's a very powerful thing. But I wouldn't say that I think that benefits the third quarter more than it does the fourth quarter or the first quarter or the second quarter. Obviously, the bigger benefit would be where you do more business. And so the tool is an important one. But I think at the end of the day, economically, it was driven -- the significant improvement in the third quarter is we've done a nice job growing volume. And we've done so with healthy margin rates. The speed tool in and of itself has application throughout the year. And in many ways, is most important where we do the most business. So...
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Stuart. That concludes our call today. We want to wish everybody a very happy Thanksgiving, and we appreciate your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
Thank you again for participating in today's call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Stephanie, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome, everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2014 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stephanie. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' second quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, August 2, 2014.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our second quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, lb.com. Also available on the website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call be is being taped and can be replayed by dialing (1) 866-NEWSLTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret, who is joining us remotely this morning; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and now I'll the turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our second quarter results were at the high end of our guidance. Total sales increased 6%, comps increased 3% on top of a 2% increase last year, and operating income dollars increased 5%. Earnings per share were $0.63 versus $0.61 last year.
We continued to reduce inventories, ending the quarter at down 9% per square foot after beginning the quarter at up 6%. The gross margin rate declined by 30 basis points to 39%, driven by a decline in the merchandise margin rate, primarily at La Senza and Victoria's Secret direct. Strong assortments and the effective management of pricing and promotions resulted in healthy merchandise margin rates in our 2 biggest businesses, Victoria's Secret stores and Bath & Body Works. The SG&A rate improved by 10 basis points to 25%. As we reported in our July sales release, SG&A expense included severance charges of about $0.02 per share. These charges, which were not part of our original guidance, resulted from home-office headcount reductions in the quarter related to our ongoing commitment to increase efficiency and simplify the business in noncustomer-facing functions. Operating income dollars increased by 5%, driven by growth in all 3 of our major business segments. And our operating income rate declined by 10 basis points to 14.1%. Earnings per share increased 3% to $0.63. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter down 9% versus last year, and we're very comfortable with our inventory position. They are clean and in good shape. Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. We feel very good about our assortments and the momentum in our business going into fall. Our forecast includes a negative impact of about $0.10 to $0.12 from the previously announced exit of certain apparel merchandise and makeup, and about $0.05 of incremental nonoperating expense, primarily interest, for a total of $0.15 to $0.17 of pressure, about $0.06 in the third quarter. For the third quarter, we expect earnings per share between $0.26 and $0.31 against last year's $0.31 result. Our third quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase. We expect the third quarter gross margin and SG&A rates to be about flat to last year. We expect to end the third quarter with inventory per square foot down in the mid to high single-digit range to last year. For the full year, we are projecting positive low-single digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 2 points higher than comps, due to growth in square footage in our international business. We expect our full year gross margin rate and the SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. Nonoperating expenses for the year are projected to be about $315 million, consisting principally of interest expense. Before any discrete items, our tax rate will be approximately 38%. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 298 million in the third quarter and 297 million for the full year. Assuming all these inputs, we expect earnings per share for the full year 2014 to be between $3.03 and $3.18 per share. We are projecting 2014 capital spending of about $750 million -- 2014 CapEx of $750 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 12 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret's square footage in North America will increase by just over 5% this year, driven by expansions of existing VS stores and the opening of 33 new PINK stores and 20 new VS stores. Total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2014 operating cash flow of $1.35 billion to $1.45 billion, and free cash flow of about $600 million to $700 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, results in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our second quarter results are detailed on Page 14 of your presentation materials.
The Victoria's Secret segment grew both sales and operating income on top of a record performance last year. Total sales increased 5% and comp sales increased 3%, with operating income increasing $17.6 million or 6%. Merchandise margin dollars and rate for the segment increased in the second quarter, with the strength in the store channel offsetting the impact of non-go-forward apparel merchandise in the direct channel. We also finished the quarter with inventories in great shape, down double-digit to last year. Now let me give you a recap of each channel, starting with the stores. In the stores channel, second quarter sales increased 6% and comps were up 3%. Operating income increased 12%. Sales growth was driven across all businesses, and customers responded well to our assortments. We were very focused on our core categories and, therefore, drove growth in bras and panties, in both lingerie, PINK, and Sport, as well as growth in PINK loungewear and fragrance. Merchandise margin rates increased during the quarter, reflecting the strength of our assortment. We continue to focus on the fundamentals of expense management and well-controlled inventory. As a result, SG&A leveraged and inventory is down double digits year-over-year. Operating income dollars and rate increased during the quarter, as higher merchandise margin and leverage in SG&A more than offset growth in buying and occupancy from our investments in real estate. Now turning to the direct channel. Second quarter sales were flat to last year. Go-forward core category sales increased in the mid single-digit range, driven by the same merchandise categories that drove the strength in the store channel, offset by the exit of non-go-forward apparel merchandise. The merchandise margin rate and dollars were down to last year, primarily due to the impact of exiting non-go-forward apparel. Operating income dollars and rate declined due to primarily to the decline in the merchandise margin. As we transition to the third quarter, we will continue to focus on newness and are excited about our upcoming bra launches. We have momentum in our core chair categories of bras, panties, fragrance and PINK loungewear, and entering the season with lean inventory, positioning us to be agile and respond with speed. We will also continue to -- we also continue to be pleased with the results of our real estate and other investments that are improving the customer experience, both in stores and on our website. In summary, while the results in spring were good, we recognize we can get better. And therefore, we are now focused on what's in front of us and delivering the back half of the year. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were able to grow sales and earnings versus our record performance last year. We were pleased with the results, and we remain committed and focused on the fundamentals we do well. We recognize that we must keep getting better in order to win.
Comps increased 3% on top of 3% last year. The overall assortments and shop activity was able to drive sales growth in a highly promotional retail environment. Traffic levels were down slightly during the period, but we were able to increase conversion rates above record levels last year, while also growing average transaction size. We continue to be pleased with the customer acceptance of product newness across our 3 key businesses:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business, and our home fragrance assortment.
Performance was below our expectations in June, driven by semiannual sale performance. However, we leveraged our read-and-react capabilities and rebounded with our July floor set delivering strong growth. Total sales for the quarter were $705 million, up 6% or $37 million to last year. Operating income was $115 million, up 8% from last year. Operating margin was 16% in the quarter and was up 40 basis points to last year, driven by expense leverage. We finished the quarter with inventory levels about flat to last year and in line with our expectations. We were pleased with the performance of our BBW Direct channel during the quarter. Total sales were up 17% and operating income grew significantly versus last year. Looking ahead to the third quarter, we continued to flow newness across the 3 key businesses and we'll maintain our robust testing agenda. We began July in our first summer theme and in August, transitioned into our artisanal market theme, featuring new and seasonal fragrances. We're excited about our assortment but also recognize we are competing in a challenging retail environment. We remain focused on improving performance by leveraging our read-and-react capabilities and by providing customers with world-class in-store experience. Our inventories are well positioned heading into fall and flexible enough to read and react to customers' preferences. Expenses are well managed, but we will continue to make appropriate investments to drive growth in the business. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. Turning to our international segment. We continue to be very pleased with our results and progress. Sales increased by 71% to $79.3 million, and operating income more than doubled to $16.9 million. The operating income rate increased to 21.3%. You'll recall that results in this segment include both our wholly owned U.K. business and our franchise models in other geographies.
Sales and operating income growth was achieved across all of our formats. At Victoria's Secret International, we continue to be pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. In the U.K., our London flagship store on Bond Street continues its exceptional performance, and we've begun construction to expand the store. Our 6 mall locations are also doing well. And we'll be opening another 3 stores this calendar year in the U.K., with one store having slipped from our prior forecast to spring 2015. Elsewhere in the world, we opened another 2 stores in the quarter under our partnership with Alshaya, bringing the total to 8. These stores continue to do very well, and we'll be opening another 5 to 7 this year across the Middle East and Turkey. Our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well, and we ended the quarter with 230 stores open. And we're on schedule for around 300 stores by the end of the year. We're on track to open 9 VSBA stores in China at the end of this year. As reminder, all of our VSBA stores are franchised. In Bath & Body Works International, we opened 7 stores in the quarter and are now up to 66 stores outside of North America, again, all franchised. We continue to be very pleased with the performance of this business and will open another 10 to 20 stores this year. So that's an update on international. And with that, I'll say thank you and turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn it back over to Stephanie.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Our first question comes from the line of Neely Tamminga with Piper Jaffray.
Neely Tamminga:
Stuart, could you give us a sense -- a little bit more color on the technology CapEx spend? Like what specifically you're spending on? And if each of the brand leaders could actually talk -- I mean, specifically around their mobile initiatives that are on the dockets, that would be really helpful for us.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Neely. We'll start with Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Neely, the technology CapEx is a relatively -- in the context of the total CapEx, as we talked about before and you know, about 70% of our CapEx is going into our real estate in [ph] our stores. Now with that said, and Sharen and Nick can comment on it more specifically, we're investing in some technology initiatives to support our international business. And we're investing in technology to support our direct businesses as well. And maybe Sharen and Nick want to add to them.
Amie Preston:
Sharen, you want to start?
Sharen Turney:
Love to. Our mobile is such a big initiative for us, and we are seeing our mobile continue to grow at a very, very rapid rate. And obviously, I think it's a big part of our future. We're encouraged to see how -- what percent of our business is going through mobile today. We have robust agendas in terms of how to simplify it, the mobile experience, and really be able to have all the full-fledged experience that you get on mobile -- or that you get today on your desktop or your iPad on mobile as well. Very encouraged, very excited about where we're going.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Neely, we will continue to invest in mobile. Obviously, it's an important part of us, mostly because it helps us understand open rate and, especially, in different venues, as the customer is not always -- obviously, the customer is not always at home and how we leverage that with social media. So yes, it's important and we'll continue to invest in it.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys. Thanks, Neely.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Omar Saad with ISI Group.
Omar Saad:
Wanted to ask about La Senza. It seems like the store closures are accelerating there a little bit. Love to kind of have you paint the mosaic and how the strategy has been shifting there. And what's changed and what your thought process is on the brand going forward, especially with some of the international franchise closures. Is there kind of room opening up for maybe more of the Victoria's Secret model full-assortment stores?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar. We'll go to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Yes, thanks, Omar. Not much has changed in La Senza, to be honest. Our Canadian fleet is the biggest part of the business. And that's pretty steady at about 150, 155 stores. We don't anticipate much change in that portfolio going forward. Internationally, the fleet is also pretty steady, with one exception, which you're probably picking up in the numbers, which is the U.K. business. You might recall that we acquired the brand rights to La Senza in the U.K. and Western Europe about 2 years ago. Alshaya stepped in to try and rescue that business that was in a distressed state, and we came to the conclusion early this year that it will be better to retire that business. So what you're seeing in the store closures is the impact of that single activity in the U.K., which, while disappointed for the people involved, we think it's the right thing for the business. So pretty much steady as you go in La Senza. We continue to be optimistic about the brand. We enter the fall season with our inventories clean and in good shape. And we think there's significant global potential for this brand going forward.
Omar Saad:
Is there any correlation the U.K. with the rise of Victoria's Secret? You have a number of stores there now and the change in strategy in -- around La Senza in the U.K. or are they...
Martin Waters:
No, not connected at all. What we see in malls around the world -- and we have several geographies where we have La Senza and Victoria in the same mall, is that both brands compete well. The customer enjoys both of the brands at the same time, and we don't see a material impact to La Senza from Victoria.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Paul Lejuez with Wells Fargo.
Paul Lejuez:
Can you maybe give some color around what sort of increases you're seeing on the VSBA side, as well as with your franchise partners? I'm just wondering, you don't give a specific international comp. But if you could give some direction in terms of how much of that business is being driven by new store openings versus what the comp would be if you had to give one.
Martin Waters:
Sure. We don't report other people's businesses. So remember, this is a franchise model. It's not our retail sales to report on. But I would tell you, we track it very closely. I regularly look at the data cut by vintage of opening, size of opening, geography, every which way you can cut it. And I would tell you that all of the indications are positive. That business grows from its core. It's growing, both in terms of new stores and growth in existing portfolio as well. So pretty exciting business. We'll get to 300 stores by the end of this year, and we'll keep growing it into next year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks a lot, Paul.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Marni Shapiro with The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
If you could talk a little bit of Victoria's Secret direct. As you've unwound some of the nonprofitable apparel, have you seen the balance of the business pick up? Or has there been any kind of impact to the rest of the assortment there? And have you seen some of that business -- like Swim, for instance, you have it in a bigger assortment in stores. Have you seen some of the shift into the stores?
Sharen Turney:
Marni, it's Sharen. Basically, our goal is -- and we are seeing the fruits of our labor, is that as we focus on more of the shared product, whether it's your core bra business, your PINK bra business, your Sport bra business, we're seeing very high growth in those categories. The future of what we believe will happen in direct is that we will offset that volume because we are more focused within these shared categories. We have not seen a deterioration of Swim by expanding it into the store. And in fact, it's really been a 1 plus 1 equals 2 or 2.5, being able to use the direct channel as advertising, the -- we don't have a lot of real estate in our stores, so that cannot carry the full assortment, being able to service the customer through our direct channel. So I think our strategy is -- I don't think, I know our strategy's going to pay off for us in terms of exiting these new noncore apparel categories and really focusing on the shared categories, which I think will benefit the customer, as well as the simplicity as we go forward with our strategies.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Marni. And thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Dana Telsey with Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Given this slight shift in the gross margin guidance to flat this year from slightly down before, what are the key drivers behind that and -- relating to each of the divisions? And lastly, as you think about the marketing plans for holiday, how will they be different in type or cost this year versus last year?
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Dana. So we're going -- for the gross margin question and the guidance, we'll go to Stuart first, and then we'll go to Sharen and Nick for holiday.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Dana, on the change in gross margin guidance for the year, it's reflecting the actual result in Q2, which was a little better than we expected. So that's the shift in full year view, again, reflecting the beat, if you will, in Q2. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Dana. Basically, as we think about our margins, it's particularly been strong because of our fashion hits, as we've been so much more agile with the inventories being so controlled that we're being able to test and really chase even more effectively than we have in the past. And as you know, speed is something that we have continued to focus on. And it's really paying off for us, as we've kind of honed in on that muscle. As I think about holiday this year, there's nothing indicating to me that it won't -- that it's going to be any different than any of the years that we've had in the past. And I think that what Victoria's Secret and PINK have done is really focused on what are all the different scenarios that could happen so that we could be prepared for anything. But I think the most important is that, if we have to turn on the promotional game, we're really being much more focused and to make big, bigger versus peanut butter spreading in terms of the promotional activity that we did last year. So I think this year, we are -- been very thoughtful about it and that we're prepared, hopefully, to win this holiday.
Amie Preston:
Great, Sharen. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Dana, so I would echo Sharen. So we'd anticipate it, obviously, being a promotional marketplace as we go into holiday. I'm not sure why it would be different. But we got terrific learnings last year in terms of some of the things that we put in place that we tested, knowing how difficult it was last year, what might we want to do. We've also run an awful lot tests earlier this year on some very big ideas that would differentiate us and feel very different to the customer, that she hasn't experienced before. So we'll focus on those and really those -- we have them planned. We have backups behind them. And then, I think it's a case of really us leveraging our read-and-react capabilities and our speed model to make sure we can adjust our plans into those tough periods.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Dana.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Janet Kloppenburg with JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Sharen, I was wondering if you could talk about 2 categories, both Beauty and Sport. Beauty, it feels like that business is firming up, and I'd love to hear you discuss some of the drivers of that. And also, on Sport, can you talk about the penetration across the store base and what we should look forward to as holiday approaches in terms of wider distribution. And for Nick, I was just wondering if you could talk about ideas for the semiannual sale in January and how you might create some newness around it.
Amie Preston:
Great, Janet. Sharen, do you want to start?
Sharen Turney:
Sure. Let me see if I can get all those questions. Okay. So first thing for Beauty. We've been very encouraged by all of our new fragrance launches. And as you know, what I'm really excited about this fall season is we've always had a strategy to really tie our fragrance launches into our bra launches, because the power of those 2 together are very strong. And so our next 2 launches that are going to be coming up, whether it's Fearless and Scandalous, all are tied together, same names of bras, same names of fragrance, which really puts power on power. The third piece, the other -- the third leg in store for us in Beauty that we are really seeing emerging is the accessory business. And we were always underpenetrated compared to our sisters in the VSBA space. And so that is a category that we're also going after as we're going to the holiday time frame. So putting fragrances with the power of the bra launches, as well as growing the accessory category, I think will position us well for Beauty as we go into holiday. The Sport, I'm very excited about Sport. I don't know if you all have been able to have a chance to see the new Sport book that just came out. Sport is in all stores. The full assortment will be in -- go from 118 to, I believe, about 180 stores this year. So we are very excited. As you know, this week, the launching are incredible. Zip-front bra, it was our #1 bra in back closure. We actually put it into front closure. We have come off of another strong introduction of the Knockout bra, which is the zip and click, which is patent. And so then, all of the technology that we have going into our Sport bras are very, very important. We are performance based. Everything we do is performance based and in all the innovation, as we go forward as well, really looking at owning that from a patent perspective. Excited about the growth opportunity that we have in Sport, both in the store and the direct channel.
Amie Preston:
Great, Sharen. And Nick, semiannual sale question?
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Janet. Yes, it's really interesting. So we had a tough sale. And if I look at the background behind that, as we flowed more newness and more fashion on a more regular basis, I think the customers' just begun to expect that and is now expecting that in sale as well. And as we had that in sale, we just didn't have it deep enough. So obviously, we'll fix that as we go forward. And I think what really happened as we transitioned July was, as we flowed significant newness, we saw our business really jump back. So our opportunity is -- a big opportunity, as we go into next year and then, obviously, as we begin to fix this is, we look at the holiday sale as well. So it's just a real case of meeting her expectations during a sale period. As you know, we're not really a markdown brand. We don't have a lot of markdowns on the floor. And so I think she just wants to [indiscernible] newness as we go into the sale period.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks.
Operator:
Our next question comes from the line of Simeon Siegel with Nomura.
Simeon Siegel:
So Martin, you have the U.K. and the Australia full-assortment stores. Can you talk to any opportunity to bring the full assortment to other regions that are benefiting from VSBA now?
Martin Waters:
Yes, we see a ton of opportunity in the regions that we're already in, to be honest. So with the Alshaya business across the whole of the Middle East and Turkey, we see potential over the next few years to get to 40 or 50 stores. So again, rather than look at other geographies, I'd rather build out where we are right now. The same would be true in the U.K., where we own the stores. With that said, we get some incredibly positive responses from the VSBA business around the world that indicate that there will be great business for us in the full assortment. So the 2 areas that I'm thinking about in the years ahead, one would be China, obviously, as we open the VSBA business later this year. I think that bodes well for full assortment in '15 or '16. Similarly, in Western Europe, this year, we'll open our first off-airport VSBA stores in Western Europe. And that could well be a lead indicator for the full assortment business in the future.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Lauren Cassel:
This is Lauren Cassel on for Kimberly. Sharen, I think some of the reasoning behind the exit of the direct apparel and makeup businesses was making a more seamless customer experience online and in store, which would ultimately allow you guys to roll e-commerce internationally. If you have any updated thoughts there or timing on that, that'd be really helpful.
Sharen Turney:
We have really been working -- and you're absolutely right, is to try to streamline those assortments to make it easier for us to rollout. And we are doing some updates right now to our website in terms of just taking all the international currencies. As we think about when our priority would be, and looking for some time in 2015.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
The next question comes from the line of Jeff Stein with Northcoast Research.
Jeffrey Stein:
A question for Stuart. Stuart, I'm wondering if you could just maybe parse out a little bit where the revenue growth is coming from in your international business. I know it's still small and growing rapidly, but it's very challenging to model. And I'm wondering if you could possibly break out how much -- roughly what percent is coming from company-owned stores, what percent royalties and what percent wholesale.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, as you can appreciate, that is a mixed model. One thing I'd want to register is that when we have our annual update meeting later this year, we'll provide some additional visibility into the key growth drivers over the next several years in international. But the revenue growth is really coming from all the portions or models of the business that you described. We don't get into the specific guidance, if you will, in those different channels. But if you think about the company-owned business in the U.K. and then the royalties that are coming off of the VSBA business and the full assortment business, again, each of those models are significant and are driving revenue growth. But we really haven't gotten into the detail of the composition of each of those 3. As we look to provide an update in October, we'll try to give more visibility to that on a multiyear basis.
Jeffrey Stein:
Stuart, can you tell us what, if any effect, royalty income is having on the tax rate? And as we go forward and look into next year, some of these countries, I suspect, are low taxpaying. Will the tax rate begin to come down for limited?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
It's not significant at this point, Jeff. But over time, as you point out, as our business becomes more international, over time, there certainly are opportunities for the tax rate to come down. But I wouldn't describe it as a significant effect certainly, in '14 or likely in '15.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jeff.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick with JPMorgan.
Brian Tunick:
Two questions on Victoria's Secret. One is the square footage growth in North America. Just some comments about what you're seeing in the bigger stores versus your expectations. Any learnings from the expanded assortments you can roll out to the rest of the chain? And then on PINK, I know it struggled last year in the second half. Can you maybe talk about what the opportunities are relative to intimates, apparel or licensed and how you're planning it versus your inventory comments I think that Stuart made.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you. We are very excited and very pleased with our larger-square-foot format stores as we have -- just a couple of things, as where we have needed real estate and we have actually pushed PINK into a free standing space and expanded the Victoria's Secret, 1 plus 1 is equaling 3. They are highly productive. And we would continue to see this as a great investment for Victoria's Secret. And as you know, we still have a large number of stores that still do not have the full assortment, whether it's PINK or it's Victoria's Secret. The highlights of what's happening in those full real estate stores is that when you have the opportunity to have a dominant bra presentation and add your adjacent categories of Sport and Swim, with PINK as a side-by-side, it's very, very powerful for every single category of growth. So good strategy, excited about the opportunity and performing well for us. PINK did have some missteps last year in their assortments, and were a little too promotional. This year, in the all-important back-to-school time frame, we did a lot of work in terms of course correcting the fashion and getting out of the NFL and the pro sport business and really focusing on the collegiate business. And we've actually added about 100 new schools in that collegiate business, which we think will more than offset the pro sport business. Back-to-school has turned out to be very, very good for us in PINK. We think that we're well positioned as we go forward. We're hoping not to be as promotional as we were last year. I think that every indicator that we have going forward and from our back-to-school tells us that we can actually do more volume at less promotional as we go into the fall season. Very excited about the PINK business right now.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Barbara Wyckoff with CLSA.
Barbara Wyckoff:
My question is for Sharen. Can you just specify what categories you are keeping in apparel? And what has been exactly eliminated? I mean, I know dresses, boots, things like that, but...
Sharen Turney:
Barbara, yes. Any -- what I would call street wear, if it's the denim business, the woven pant business, really is going away. The 2 businesses that we're keeping are the lounge business, which are consistent to what we were doing with Supermodel Essentials. And then when we think about the all-important Swim business, which is the beach lifestyle, those categories that tie back into beach lifestyle to support the Swim business, we will also be -- will also remain in.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, guys.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Roxanne Meyer with UBS.
Roxanne Meyer:
The ability to chase is a competitive advantage for you, and you've talked about your increased agility in your businesses. I'm just wondering if you can give us an update on that ability to chase at both Victoria's and BBW, maybe pointing out the key categories that are chased and your average lead times at this point. And what categories, potentially, you still have the opportunity to chase?
Amie Preston:
Sure, Roxanne. We'll start with Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
We have -- when we think about our ability in chase, it does vary by category. And it is really -- we have such strong partnerships with our supply base, and they are truly partners. We've worked very hard, whether it's your raw materials partners or your manufacturing partners, to really set up something, which, I think, is a very unique proposition. We have the -- we probably have cut all of our manufacturing in lead times in half and continue to see opportunity. Panties is obviously our fastest category of growth. We've been able to get bras anywhere -- if it's a basic bra, fashion bra, down anywhere from 3 to 7 weeks. So there's always more and more opportunity as we look at the supply base, because we really try to think about it as -- Charlie McGuigan likes to say, is that as they were manufacturing right next door to us. It takes a lot of coordination between all of our merchants' planners and our supply base to be able to do this. And we really believe it is a competitive advantage for us.
Nicholas Coe:
Roxanne, so we're really well structured and really fully leveraging the speed and the rapid replenishment that we've put in place. And I think if you look at our business over the course of the last 6 months, we've seen our comps steadily improve all the way through into July. And I think a lot of that is as a result of our ability and our commitment to reading the business and reacting to it and leveraging speed. I think where it goes to next is really about coming back to the fundamental of making that decision about what and which concepts really do we want to put the emphasis behind, so that we've got that read-and-react capability. So it really becomes more of a merchant skill set now in terms of -- got a high belief in this, we've tested it, we like it, and we're starting to use that to decide whether we want to put the emphasis in. So we'll just continue to really leverage it and make it part of a -- really, as part of our working model.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, guys. Thanks, Roxanne.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess the question is for Martin. On the VSBA side, you've been opening about 100 a year the last couple of years. I'm just curious about your appetite, given what you're seeing to maybe start to accelerate that, maybe 150, 200. And then, also, any optionality or any thought process on potentially, down the road, taking some of those VSBA franchises in-house and what's the thinking there?
Martin Waters:
Yes, sure. Thanks, Ike. Yes, I think 100 stores is a pretty good clip, 2 a week. That's what we did last year. That's what we'll do this year. I would like to think that we could get there a little faster and so I'm challenging the business to up the pace for 2015. That said, the most important thing is the quality of the real estate. So I'd rather go slower and get the right real estate than faster and be in secondary locations. So there's a constant healthy tension with our partners, who see that this business is very productive. They want to go quicker, too, but I'm only prepared to do it in the right places, so it's that constant pull/push. I think if we can keep 100 to 125 stores a year going for the next few years, that will give us pretty good rates of growth. As far as the option to bring those stores in-house, I don't want to go there. Our model is a capital-light model. We -- it's a very high-control model, and we think that if we control the IP, we control everything that the customer sees, from how the assortment is built, how the stores are created, how our associates sell, and we just leave 3 things to our partners
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Jennifer Black with Jennifer Black & Associates.
Jennifer Black:
I think my question is for you, Nick. I wondered if you could talk about holiday. When you look at the collection, how much are you bringing back as far as your traditional sense in merchandise? And how much will we see in newness versus last year compared to other years? If you could just talk a little bit about that, that would be great.
Nicholas Coe:
Jennifer, yes, sure. There are, I would say we've got a comparable level of newness that we had last year. I think the difference that we're looking at is really distorting into things that we've either got an early read on, things that did well last year that we really want to get behind from a distorted perspective. In terms of what will we repeat, the 2 big things that were important to us last year, we'll repeat again were for traditions and holiday traditions. Especially in holiday traditions, we saw a very big growth in that category as we reinvented it last year. And we've done the same again this year. And really try to emphasize in that particular area the notion of the importance of Christmas, the importance of holiday and making it as festive as possible and really using that as a critical driver as we go into it. So I'd say, in summary, about the same level of newness, but really distorted towards where do we think the big hits are, and then 2 big ideas that will come back again from a traditions perspective.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jennifer.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Anna Andreeva with Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
A question to Sharen. Maybe talk about some of the technology you're seeing in the bra category right now. It just looks like Europe guys are benefiting from a lot of newness at Victoria's Secret. And a question to Stuart, maybe talk about the fourth quarter opportunity you guys have ahead. Your inventories are in very good shape, and guidance really assumes very modest gross margin expansion on top of a deterioration last year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks. So Sharen, do you want to start?
Sharen Turney:
Well, we just have a philosophy for us that innovation and new technologies are really endless. And what we always try to start with is -- we start with the customer, is what can we solve for the customer to have a better fitting, a more comfortable fashion bra. So as we think about some of the new technologies that we have, whether it's in the Sport bras or as we have done our T-shirt bra or the Incredible bras, we continue to look at that, first and foremost, from the customer perspective. As we go forward for the holiday time frame, I will tell you, we'll be relaunching, a little insight, one of our biggest categories of bra, which is Dream Angels. So Dream Angels will have a brand-new facelift as we go into holiday, and that's going to be very, very important for us. So it's something that we continue to focus on. We want to be the best in the world at bras. But we -- it's not just technology for technology's sakes, but it's for basically solving issues or enhancing opportunities for our customer.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Anna, with respect to the fourth quarter, I mean, for the reasons you mentioned, we're optimistic about having a good fourth quarter. So we've got momentum in the business, inventories are in good shape, a lot of positive things going, which Nick and Sharen are describing. I would remind you that the impact of the apparel exit at VSD is significant in the fourth quarter. So that will be a drag going the other way. But we're optimistic that we're set up to have a good holiday and we're going to work hard to get to the best result.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anna.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Betty Chen with Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
I'm wondering if, Sharen and Nick, you can talk a little bit about AUR or transaction or conversion opportunities for your respective businesses, whether for the holiday season or looking longer term into 2015.
Amie Preston:
Great. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
Betty, thank you. We are always looking at opportunities in terms of driving conversion. And one of the things that -- as we continue to think about our selling organization, is how do we make sure that we're giving the [indiscernible] of appropriate training? How do we make sure that they have the opportunity to experience the product? So we've put a lot of initiatives in place to help with training and with those -- with them really being able to experience the product. So I think they're going to, hopefully, pay off for us. We continue to see conversion go up. And I think that's a great opportunity for us as we go into the holiday season.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Betty, I think a lot of this will really come down to what will traffic be like and how hard will we have to fight to make sure we get our fair share of it. And obviously, that fighting will take, in some cases, a promotional side. So I could see the season is starting well and AUR is pretty healthy. Is there upside? Potentially. But then, there's -- that would be offset with any promotional activity, which could also come back in terms of how we manage speed and are we able to get back into the collections that she's liked. We took some ticket increases last year. I don't anticipate us doing that again in holiday now. I think we've got ourselves to a healthy place. And then I think it's really just a case of reading, reacting and really understanding the customer's preferences, seeing if we can make sure we get the assortment in that area.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thank you, guys. Thanks, Betty.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Thomas Filandro with Susquehanna Financial Advisors.
Thomas Filandro:
Sharen, quick question for you. Any initial reads on the commission-based, sales associate market test that you're running? And then, Stuart, can you just expand on the severance charge that was taken in the quarter? What does that actually relate to and might there be an impact from the severance charge on an operating expenses go forward, either in the second half or in 2015?
Amie Preston:
Let's start -- go ahead, Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
I'm sorry. Thomas, this is something we're always experimenting with. It's just really too early for me to comment.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Tom, on the severance charge, as we've talked about pretty consistently and I mentioned in the prepared remarks, we are, on an ongoing basis, looking to minimize the home-office overhead, particularly in areas that are noncustomer facing. And so we did take some actions in the quarter to adjust our cost structure, again, in home-office, noncustomer-facing functions. In terms of the benefit of that, it is included in the guidance ranges for the back half of the year. We'll get a little bit more benefit next year. But it's really a part of an ongoing effort, Tom, to make sure that we're putting our money into those areas that are most important to the customer. Thanks.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Lorraine Hutchinson with Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
I wanted to follow up on Janet's question around athletic. With the success of the sports bra launches, have you see that drive your athletic apparel business? And are there further opportunities in the back half to drive that further?
Sharen Turney:
The Sport bra business, yes, there is some opportunity for us in the back half in terms of the -- what I would call the bottoms aspect of it or the completing the outset. So there will be some opportunity for us in the back half of the year.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Lorraine.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Citigroup.
Oliver Chen:
Sharen, at VS, we've been noticing some really compelling price increases on a year-over-year basis, which have been pretty awesome to achieve. Could you just articulate the opportunity there and what you might expect for holiday? And Nick, just a quick one on gifting. What should we know about gifting this year versus last year in your pursuit of how you'll think about timing and what might be important to customers?
Sharen Turney:
We haven't taken a lot of price increases. What you might have -- might be referring to, and correct me if I'm wrong, is that what we have done is we've actually add 2 layers of fashion, which we had layered in the designer collection, which is at the top tier of the price point, and then we have another, I'll just say, aspirational layer as well. So we continue to carry our good, better, best. But we're actually layering on in terms of the higher -- of the reach price points to just the designer and aspirational piece of the business.
Nicholas Coe:
Good question. So first of all, I'd say, one of the ways we're looking at gifting as we go into holiday is that the brand is inherently a very giftable brand. So how do we take the most important pieces that we have, whether that's a 3-wick candle or whether it's certain fragrances, and find ways to merchandise market and sell those as -- for their ultimate purpose, which is in many cases, as a giftable item. So we've put a bigger emphasis against that side of it. Then secondly, as we think about merchandising the store and try to make it fundamentally as giftable and Christmas-like and holiday-like as possible, we'll continue to take the gifting ideas, spatter them through the store so that it creates that ambience. And then we've just got an awful lot of learnings, both in terms of timing, that we don't have to be too early, as well as things we've done in the first half of this year that she's reacted well to. So I'm optimistic in terms of how do we leverage the core equity of the brand, which is very, very giftable in any case, and then how do we merchandise the rest of gifting in a way makes it pretty compelling for her as she go -- comes in at holiday.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. Thanks, everyone, for your participation and your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
And this concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Lori, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the L Brands First Quarter 2014 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, and good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands' first quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, May 3, 2014.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statements found in our SEC filings. Our first quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, lb.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call be is being taped and can be replayed by dialing (1) 866-NEWSLTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared remarks, we will be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. We need to end the call today at 10:00 to get to a Board meeting. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter results were good in what was a challenging retail environment. Total sales increased 5%, comps increased 2% on top of the 3% increase last year, and operating income dollars increased 8% and EPS grew 10%. Importantly, we delivered 5% sales growth while holding merchandise margins relatively flat. We effectively managed promotions in the quarter and reduced inventories, ending the quarter at up 6% per square foot, down from 9% at the beginning of the quarter.
The gross margin rate declined by 40 basis points to 41.1%, driven roughly equally by a slight decline in the merchandise margin rate and buying and occupancy deleverage. The slight decline in the merchandise margin rate was in line with our expectations. SG&A expenses were well managed, increasing by 2.5% in total and leveraging by 80 basis points. The operating income dollar increase of 8% was driven by growth in all 3 of our major business segments, and our operating income rate improved by 40 basis points. Earnings per share increased 10% to a record $0.53. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 6. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 6% versus last year. We're very comfortable with our inventory position. They are clean and in good shape. We repurchased 781,000 shares of stock in the first quarter for $42.1 million. At quarter-end, we had $133.6 million remaining under our current $250 million repurchase program. Turning to Page 8 of the presentation. Our forecast for 2014 reflects actions we are taking to grow our business. Growth in Victoria's Secret real estate increased store selling payroll, driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience and investments in international expansion. These actions will drive sales growth but will result in near-term expense pressure, particularly in buying and occupancy and store selling costs. Occupancy costs are estimated to increase by approximately 7% this year. This increase is driven by increased rent for incremental square footage for new and remodeled stores in the United States, Canada and the U.K.; increased accelerated appreciation for stores that we are remodeling before the end of the lease term; and increased appreciation related to the new and remodeled stores that were opened over the last several years. Also, in order to increase our focus on our faster-growing, more profitable product lines, we are exiting certain noncore apparel categories in Victoria's Secret Direct and Makeup in our Beauty business. Sharen will discuss the strategic intent of these actions in her comments. We plan to sell-through the remaining inventory of non-go forward merchandise through the remainder of the year. We currently expect that total Apparel sales will decline by about $130 million in 2014, a portion of which will be offset by growth in other categories. And Makeup sales will decline by about $25 million. Our updated earnings guidance includes an estimate of the negative impact of exiting these businesses of between $0.10 and $0.12 per share for the year. For the second quarter, we expect earnings per share of between $0.57 and $0.62 against last year's $0.61 result. Higher interest expense and a higher projected tax rate are negatively impacting the second quarter by about $0.02. Our second quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase. We expect the second quarter gross margin rate to be down to last year, driven by a decline in the merchandise margin rate and occupancy expense pressure. We expect that merchandise margins will decline by more than the first quarter as a result of the apparel and Makeup exits. We expect the second quarter SG&A rate to decrease versus last year, driven by our continued focus on expense management. We expect to end the second quarter with inventory per square foot roughly flat to last year. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 2 points higher than comps due to growth in square footage in our International business. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be down slightly and the SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. Nonoperating expenses for the year are projected to be about $315 million, consisting principally of interest expense. Before any discrete items, our tax rate will be approximately 38%. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 297 million in the second quarter and the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect earnings per share for the full year 2014 to be between $3 and $3.15 per share. Higher interest expense, shares outstanding and tax rate are negatively impacting our full year earnings by about $0.07. As mentioned earlier, the exit of noncore apparel and Makeup is negatively impacting EPS by about $0.10 to $0.12. Excluding these factors, earnings per share growth implied by our guidance is from 4% to 9%. We are projecting 2014 CapEx of about $750 million. As you know, about 70% [ph] of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 9 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in North America will increase by just over 5% this year, driven by expansions of existing VS stores and the opening of 32 new PINK stores and 20 new VS stores. The total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2014 operating cash flow of $1.35 billion to $1.45 billion and free cash flow of about $600 million to $700 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with additional availability under our revolving credit facility, result in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Think you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter results are detailed on Page 11 of your presentation material. The Victoria's Secret segment grew both sales and operating income versus last year. Total sales increased 4% to last year, and comparable store sales increased 2% on top of 3% last year, with operating income increasing $14 million or 5%.
Customers responded favorable to our assortments, particularly the newness in our bra category with our first quarter core bra launches and strong growth from our Sport bra offering. Our panty and PINK apparel categories also had solid growth. In order to increase our focus on our fastest-growing, most profitable businesses, we are exiting some of our noncore apparel categories in Direct, as well as Victoria's Secret Makeup. This will reduce our annual Direct apparel business from roughly $485 million in sales in 2013 to between $200 million and $220 million in 2015, with this year being a transition year. The exit of our Victoria's Secret Makeup business will impact our business by about $45 million on an annual basis. This is an exciting, long-term opportunity for Victoria's Secret. As our omni-channel categories are our most profitable, aligning offerings across the channels not only allows us to better focus on our core but also provides a seamless customer experience. In the stores channel, first quarter sales increased 5% and comps were up 2%. Our growth in sales came from both Lingerie and PINK, with strong growth in bras. We were excited about our launches and continued to see solid performance in Sport bras. We also saw strengths in panties and PINK. Beauty sales declined, primarily driven by less promotional activity in Body Care within the quarter. Our store channel merchandise rate increased during the quarter, with gains across Lingerie, PINK and Beauty. Operating income dollars and rate increased during the quarter as higher merchandise margins and leverage in SG&A more than offset growth in buying and occupancy from our investments in real estate. In the Direct channel, first quarter sales were flat to last year as a high single-digit increase in Lingerie, PINK and Sport was offset by a high single-digit decline in apparel. The merchandise margin rate was down to last year, primarily due to the higher promotional activity in the apparel business. Expenses were about flat to last year, so the decline in merchandise margin resulted in a decline in operating income. As we transition to the second quarter, we will continue to focus on newness and are looking forward to our upcoming bra launches, which have tested well. We continue to be pleased with the results of our real estate and other store investments that are improving the customer experience. While select category exits and continued investments in real estate will put pressure on our results, we are confident in our core categories of bras, panties, fragrance and PINK. Our inventories are well positioned, and we remain focused on increasing our agility in order to optimize our business. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thank you, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we were able to grow sales and earnings versus our record performance last year. We were pleased with the results, and we remain committed and focused on the fundamentals we do well and recognize that we must keep getting better to win.
Comps increased 2% on top of 3% last year. The overall assortments in shop activity was able to drive sales growth in a highly promotional environment. Customers responded to newness in both form and fragrance in our 3 key categories:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business and our home fragrance assortment. All performed at or above the total company comp during the quarter. We were pleased with the results of our soap relaunch during the quarter, which featured new formulation and packaging.
Improvements in our conversion rates and growth in our average unit retails during the quarter were partially offset by challenging traffic levels. Total sales for the 13-week quarter were $582 million, up 4% or up $21 million to last year. For the quarter, our operating income was $80 million, up 9% from last year. Operating income as a percentage of sales was 14% in the quarter and was up 60 basis points to last year. Gross margin rate in the quarter was up to last year, driven by leverage in buying and occupancy. SG&A expenses also leveraged versus last year. We finished the quarter with inventory levels up slightly to last year and in line with expectations. We were pleased with the performance of BBW Direct channel during the quarter. Total sales were up 18%, and operating income grew significantly versus last year. Looking ahead to the second quarter. We will continue to introduce newness and innovation in both form and fragrance. We began the month on Mother's Day and transitioned into a perfect summer theme, featuring new and seasonal fragrances across the 3 key categories. We're excited about our assortment, but we will continue to manage expense and inventory conservatively. Our overall focus continues to be about building the brand, getting faster and better understanding and satisfying our customer needs while providing them with world-class in-store experience. In addition to focusing on products and fragrance launches, we will continue to test and read results of new product offerings and promotional strategies while maintaining flexibility in our inventory to read -- to react quickly to our customers' preferences. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. As you know, beginning with this quarter, we are reporting the results of our Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works International businesses in a separate segment for the first time. My comments this morning will relate to that segment.
We made a lot of progress in the first quarter. Sales increased by 76% to $71 million, and operating income advanced to $15.5 million. The operating income rate increased to 21.9%. You will recall that when talking about revenue in this segment, we're including a combination of some wholly owned stores, where we report retail sales, but the larger component is revenue from our franchise businesses. The good news is that sales and operating income growth was achieved across all of our formats. At Victoria's Secret International, we continue to be pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. In the U.K., our London flagship store on Bond Street goes from strength to strength, and we've recently begun construction to expand into the adjacent space. We opened another 2 stores in the U.K. in the first quarter, bringing us to a total of 6 mall locations in addition to Bond Street. We'll be opening another 4 stores this year in the U.K. Elsewhere in the world, we opened another 2 stores under our partnership with Alshaya, bringing the total to 6. These stores continue to do very well, and we'll be opening another 6 to 8 this year across the Middle East and Turkey. Our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well, and we ended the quarter with 209 stores open and are on schedule for about 300 by the end of 2014. We're also on track to open VSBA stores in China at the end of this year. In Bath & Body Works International, we are now up to 59 stores outside of North America, all franchised. And we continue to be very pleased with performance of this business, and we'll open another 15 to 25 stores this year. So that's an update on International. And with that, I'll say thank you and turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. At this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Lori, I'm going to turn it back over to you.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Matt McClintock of Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
Sharen, I was just wondering if you could talk a little bit more about Victoria's Secret's Sport. We've seen some very impressive presentations in some of your stores during our checks. And I just wanted to get more of your vision for future growth in that category this year, next year, going forward. And then maybe can you talk more about upcoming product launches, innovations and compare that to the product that you had last year.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Matt. We're very excited about our Sport business. And as you know, we rolled Sport bras to all stores in the fall season, and it has continued to exceed our expectation. We only have our full assortment in about 80 stores right now from a Sport perspective. We think that there's a huge opportunity, not only in the store channel but as well as in the Direct channel. We continue to incubate ideas in these full assortment stores and continue to be pleased and really exceeded our -- and exceeding our expectations. The only thing that gets in our way of growth right now is just real estate. So as you see, all of the real estate moves that we're making this year in terms of Victoria's Secret will allow us to continue to expand upon this category. I'm also pleased with the innovation that we are doing. And in fact, in about another week, we'll be launching a new Sport bra that we actually have the technology patent. And we call it the Knockout bra, but it's also zip and click, which is just a great front closure Sport bra with lots of technology to help support and has continued in the testing to really blow everything else out of the water in terms of what we've done. We have a full pipeline of innovation that we continue to see ideas much stronger than we did last year in the Sport bra category. So we're well positioned. We're excited about it. I feel like that we're going a little slower than I would like, primarily just to the real estate that we need to continue to push this category forward.
Amie Preston:
That's great. Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of John Kernan of Cowen.
John Kernan:
Stuart, I guess, with inventory expected to be flat on a per square foot basis by the end of Q2, how conservatively do you think your gross margin guidance is in the back half of the year as you start to lap some of the easier comparisons from last year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, we're always going to work hard to hold or improve merchandise margin results in the business. Importantly, in the first quarter, we had -- I would describe it as solid results in merchandise margin rate as compared to the fourth quarter. And we'll plan the business conservatively and work hard to do better than those conservative plans. We feel good about the inventory levels that we have now and how we'll end the spring season. So we've got conservative assumptions in the guidance, and we'll work hard to beat those assumptions. But we're feeling solid about the merchandise margin rate results in the business. And again, an important change in the first quarter versus the fourth quarter, where merchandise margin rates were, I think, pretty solid in a challenging environment. I think we're in good shape.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Neely Tamminga of Piper Jaffray.
Neely Tamminga:
Can we just talk a little bit about the discontinued businesses? I guess, one question here for Sharen. Why specifically Makeup? I think you guys went through kind of a redesign on that one. I'm just wondering what the decision process was to kind of exit out of Makeup specifically. And Stuart, in terms of, obviously, you guys are better aligning your talent out of the non-go forward apparel. How are you guys thinking about saving or rather respending some of those talent dollars? And where would you rather spend them on within your organization right now?
Sharen Turney:
Neely, in terms of discontinuing the Makeup business, we didn't even have Makeup in all stores. And it's really, when you think about from an enterprise perspective, our real core is going to be in fragrance, and whether it's a fine fragrance, whether it's in the Body Care business. And the Makeup was more of an ancillary. It's a high-maintenance business, a high-discard business, so when we think about focused, fast and frugal and focusing on our core, going into fragrance and putting all the energy there, which is a better tie-in to Lingerie, helps us to get to our end game faster and, we believe, will help us to grow the whole Beauty category even faster than we are today. And I'm going to take the question about reinvesting the talent that we had. As we got out of the apparel business and the Makeup business, we actually have refocused those talent -- that talent into our core, whether it be in our Sport category in Direct, our Swim category, Beauty. We are underdeveloped in the Beauty category in Direct. So we have refocused, and you'll see some of that coming to play -- into play this fall season.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Neely.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Brian Tunick of JPMorgan.
Brian Tunick:
Wondering, on the Victoria's Secret Direct changes you're making, can you maybe give us some sense of what the margin delta might be on the Swim and the Sport versus the apparel businesses you're getting out of? And what do you think the timeframe is to replace that volume over the next couple of years?
Sharen Turney:
Box [ph] share product has much higher margin characteristics than the apparel business or the Makeup business because Direct also did some Makeup business. So the margin characteristics are much higher in our core share categories. As we think about really focusing on those core categories, we believe that we can offset the Makeup business this fall season. We believe we can offset some of the exits this fall season. And then as we go into 2015, it'll probably take us another 12 months to completely, on the conservative side, offset the exit of apparel.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Brian.
Operator:
Your next question is from Barbara Wyckoff of CLSA.
Barbara Wyckoff:
Sharen, could you talk about the new BB -- well, it was actually new at the beginning of May, the collection with all -- have the performance with -- the collection with all of the multiple straps. It looks pretty terrific. Can you talk about that?
Sharen Turney:
Sure. I think you're referring to the Very Sexy strappy back. And the trend right now -- yes, did really, really well. The strappy back, what we also call caging from a fashion trend, continues to be strong, and it's something that we'll continue to maximize as we go forward.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Barbara.
Operator:
Your next question is from Oliver Chen of Citigroup.
Oliver Chen:
Regarding the international side, for Martin and Stuart, as you think about capital allocation here and the wholly-owned store opportunity, what are the factors from which you would look at to even further accelerate that? And what kind of catalyst or risk or opportunity points are you guys considering when you think about that versus domestic?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So I'll take that first, Oliver. Thanks for the question. So we continue to be super excited about the opportunity to develop the Victoria's business, both in full assortment stores and in VSBA stores. All of the VSBA stores are franchised, so there is no capital constraint there. The rate-determining stats for how fast we go is just the availability of real estate and building and selling organization. I think in the full assortment business, the U.K., in addition to Canada, is the only market where we use our own capital. And our default position is to make this a low-capital model. And where we can find franchise partners who are able to run the business in the way that we want them to run it, then that would be our first choice. And in the next couple of years, we've penned down a significant amount of growth with Alshaya, in particular, across the Middle East and Turkey.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin, and thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question is from Kimberly Greenberger of Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is for Sharen. Sharen, you mentioned in your prepared remarks you're looking to deliver a seamless customer experience between online and in stores. And that was some of the thinking behind the exit of these businesses. Can we assume that this is one step in a multistep process to eventually roll out your e-commerce platform internationally? And if you have any sort of update on the timing or the outlook of that, that would be really helpful.
Sharen Turney:
Kim, I think that is a great question. Yes, I think by us making sure that we can focus on the few categories, it gives us the opportunity to excel, going forward, into a bigger International business. It makes it a lot more simple, and it gives us the opportunity to stay focused, fast and frugal. And I would say that we want to get through 2014. And then as we think about it as we go forward in 2015, we will come back to you with a better layout of our strategy from an international perspective.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Kimberly.
Operator:
Your next question is from Janet Kloppenburg of JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
My one question is for Sharen. It's -- I think the apparel business experienced a rebound in the first quarter, Sharen, after maybe a little bit of underperformance in the fourth quarter. I was wondering if you could talk about the strategy related to that and how it looks going forward.
Sharen Turney:
Our peak apparel business has bounced back very nicely coming in from the holiday. And I really attribute to the fact that we have a lot of agility and with all of the speed models that we have put into play. I'm very excited about those assortments, not only from an apparel category perspective but what's happening as well as in the bra and panties. So we have a very balanced assortment when we think about the intimate business as well as the apparel category. We feel very strong about the things that we've tested for back-to-school. As you know, as we come into August and September are big moments for PINK. And last year, that's when we stubbed our toe. So we are very optimistic as we go forward into that timeframe.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Janet.
Operator:
Your next question is from Roxanne Meyer of UBS.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is on La Senza. I just was curious to get an update on the game plan for revitalizing that business and what your plans are there.
Martin Waters:
Sure. I'll take that, Roxanne. So yes, La Senza continues to be a bit of a challenge for us, not helped by some headwinds in the last quarter specifically related to Canadian retail environment, which has been tough, and also foreign exchange rates, which have gone against us somewhat. But that said, we continue to be very positive about and optimistic about the positioning of La Senza. The team's working incredibly hard to fix it. We'll stay the course, and we hope to have good news soon.
Amie Preston:
Thanks a lot, Roxanne.
Operator:
Your next question is from John Morris of BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
Question for Stuart on the cost of the discontinued businesses in VS Direct. How did that cost, in terms of how it came out, compare to what your original expectations would've been? We were thinking maybe it was a little bit higher. But also, how -- are you seeing how it flows through Q2 through Q4? Any kind of guide -- modeling guidance there? Given the guidance on Q2, it almost looks like your Q2 was actually still in pretty good shape, even taking into account some of the cost associated with that discontinuation.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So in terms, John, of how it breaks in 2014, we'd see, between the Direct apparel and the VS Makeup, a couple cents, $0.02 in the second quarter and the balance in the fall spread pretty -- with a little more skew to Q4 than Q3. So a couple cents in Q2 and the balance in the fall, with a little more weight in the fourth quarter. And in terms of a view versus original expectation, I mean, the fact is these are decisions that were made within the first quarter. So we developed a view that's in prep for this call. That's [indiscernible].
Amie Preston:
All right. Thanks, John.
Operator:
Your next question is from Omar Saad of ISI Group.
Omar Saad:
Just a quick question on PINK. It seems like, I think, the planned store openings this year got tweaked down a little bit from last quarter. Just wanted to get a better understanding of what's going on there. Are there changes in real estate availability or any kind of changes in your strategy around the brand?
Sharen Turney:
Omar, thank you. I think there was a shift of 2. But there is no change in our strategy about us being aggressive with PINK. Very excited about the store -- the new store openings. I think anywhere at the end of the year, we'll probably have around 250 freestanding PINK stores between North America. So we still see a lot of growth and opportunities within PINK. So we're pretty excited about that. But there's nothing really that's changed in terms of real estate.
Amie Preston:
Yes, Omar, what Sharen said is right. I would guess that any changes from our previous forecast just have to do with timing and real estate changes and leases. Thanks, Omar.
Operator:
Your next question is from Simeon Siegel of Nomura Securities.
Gene Vladimirov:
This is actually Gene Vladimirov on for Simeon Siegel. I wanted to ask if you could talk a little bit about the composition of inventory at Victoria's Secret, and also if you're making any changes to your approach for the buy in the second half of the year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Vladimir. Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
The competition of our inventory in Victoria's Secret is actually quite healthy. I think that where we invested in the fall season was primarily in the bra category. We have come out of that very strong. We're excited about the newness, and our inventory is actually cleaner as we go into third quarter next year. We have a lot of agility. We're continuing to focus on making sure that, every year, we use our speed models and actually recreate and reinvent our speed models. So I think as you look forward into Q3 and Q4, Victoria's Secret, across the board, will have more open-to-buy and agility than we did last year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen.
Operator:
Your next question is from Anna Andreeva of Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
A question on International. Profitably saw a nice pickup during the quarter. Maybe talk about what drove the strength there. How should we think about the margins in International segments in 2014? And should we expect the owned stores footprint to be profitable this year, or is it more about 2015 with bigger scale?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anna. Martin?
Martin Waters:
Yes. So I think the best way to think about the change in the performance in International is just about new store growth, really. And if you look at Page 10 of the presentation, we'll have moved from 262 stores in the quarter to something around 400 by the end of the year. And all of those full businesses are growing and growing at a healthy clip, driven by new store space and by comp growth in the existing stores. As far as the profitability of the business is concerned, yes, we're not going to breakdown individual store performance, but I think you should know that we're pleased with the performance that we're making. We continue to see very good signs across all of those businesses. Stuart, do you want to add anything?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
No, I think the only thing I would add, which has been our view on a consistent basis, is we expect the International business to have an operating income rate at or accretive to the enterprise rate, and that's what we're seeing. And we would expect that to continue for the balance of the year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anna.
Operator:
You're next question comes from the line of Jennifer Davis of Buckingham Research Group.
Jennifer Davis:
Just a question on Henri Bendel. Could you talk a little bit about that? We haven't gotten an update about it in a little while, and just any kind of changes in the strategy or updates. All right.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
This is Stuart. I'll take that. So on Bendel, we're pleased with the results we're seeing in the mall-based stores. So we've got the store on Fifth Avenue, as you know, and then we've got 28 stores in better malls throughout the United States. And those locations are growing sales at a healthy rate and are realizing meaningful improvement in their merchandise margin rates. So we're optimistic about the assortment. And we're seeing that play through in terms of the sales and margin results of the business. It's still in an early stage of development, but we're seeing good signs.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Mark Altschwager from Robert W. Baird.
Mark Altschwager:
Could you just update us on the market intensification efforts and any plans to accelerate that throughout this year?
Sharen Turney:
It's Sharen. We're very pleased with the market intensification. And as you know, we have moved now into our fifth market and continue to see great results from that work, and we're continuing to learn. I think that we'll probably stay within this fifth market through the rest of 2014, and we'll add 1 new market in 2015.
Amie Preston:
Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, we continue to see very strong results in Chicago. And we've actually added a bunch more work to Chicago to continue to try and drive that. We're not, at this juncture, looking at the next one because I think we're still in pretty strong learnings mode and continue to see pretty solid results.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick, and thanks, Mark. That concludes our call. Thank you all for joining us, and have a happy Memorial Day. Bye.
Operator:
Ladies and gentlemen, this concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Michelle, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome, everyone to the L Brands Fourth Quarter 2013 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Michelle. Good morning, everyone, and welcome to L Brands Fourth Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, February 1, 2014.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our fourth quarter earnings release and related financial information, including any non-GAAP or adjusted financial reconciliation tables, are available on our website, www.lb.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call be is being taped and can be replayed by dialing (1) 866-NEWSLTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] All of the results discussed on this call are adjusted results and exclude the items from 2012 that are described in our press release. Also, as you know, 2012 was a 53-week year. All of the sales dollars, margin and operating income results discussed are on a 13- to 14-week basis for the quarter and 52- to 53-week basis for the year. Comparable store sales and direct sales dollar increases or decreases are on a comparable calendar period, 52 to 52 weeks for the year and 13 to 13 weeks for the quarter. Thanks. And now I'll turn it over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our overall fourth quarter results were below our expectations. Through the first 3 quarters of the year, we were meeting our internal goal of growing operating income by 10%. The fourth quarter was certainly a setback with operating income dollars about flat year-over-year on a 13-week basis.
While the environment was challenging for most in retail, as we assess our performance, we didn't execute as well as we should have. Therefore, we are intensifying our efforts on the fundamentals that we have been focused on for the last several years:
our focus on the customer, improving speed and agility in the business and managing inventory and expenses with discipline.
Earnings per share were $1.65 versus $1.76 last year or $1.68, excluding the extra week. To take you through the fourth quarter results, as detailed on Page 4 of the presentation. Net sales for the 13-week quarter were $3.818 billion versus $3.856 billion for the 14-week quarter last year, and comps increased 1% on top of 5% last year. The gross margin rate decreased 220 basis points to 43%, driven by a decrease in the merchandise margin rate and slight buying and occupancy expense deleverage. The SG&A rate decreased by 130 basis points. Operating income decreased $44.3 million to $863.5 million. The decrease is driven by the extra week last year. Excluding that week, operating income dollars were roughly flat in the quarter. Turning to our full year results on Page 6. Earnings per share were $3.05 versus $2.92 last year or $2.84, excluding the extra week. Excluding the extra week last year, EPS increased about 7% for the year. Net sales increased to $10.773 billion, and comps increased 2% on top of 6% last year. Excluding the extra week last year, total sales increased by about 4%. Our investments in real estate at Victoria's Secret and growth in our international business drove about 2 points of sales growth above our comp. The gross margin rate decreased 120 basis points to 41.1%, driven by a decline in the merchandise margin rate and slight buying and occupancy expense deleverage. The SG&A rate improved by 110 basis points as we continued our focus on growing expenses slower than sales. Page 7 details our full year operating income results. Our full year adjusted operating income rate was 16.2%, about flat to last year. Operating income dollars increased by $36.1 million, primarily driven by growth in our international business, our sourcing function and Bath & Body Works. Excluding the extra week last year, operating income dollars increased by about 5%. Beginning with the first quarter of 2014, we will be changing our segment reporting. We will provide restated 2013 and 2012 segment information to you today after this call. Specifically, results from our company-owned stores in Canada will be reclassified from the Other segment into the corresponding Victoria's Secret or Bath & Body Works segments. We will be creating a new segment called VS & BBW International, which will include our Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works stores both owned and franchised outside of North America. The results of La Senza, Henri Bendel, the Mast sourcing function and corporate overhead will remain in the Other segment. As part of this reporting change, go forward, we will no longer be separately reporting sales and comps for La Senza, which is not material to our overall results. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 9% versus last year. Inventories ended the year in line with our expectations with growth driven by investments in core and sport bras at Victoria's Secret. We expect that inventory growth will continue to exceed sales growth in February and March. We expect to end the first quarter with inventory per square foot up in the mid-single-digit range, and we expect to end the second quarter about flat. Operating cash flow in 2013 was $1.248 billion, free cash flow was $557 million and capital expenditures were $691 million. We repurchased 160,000 shares of stock in the fourth quarter for $8.5 million. At the end of the year, we had $176 million remaining under our $250 million share repurchase program. We recently announced a 13% increase in our annual dividend to $1.36 per share and also declared a special dividend of $1 per share, both of which will be paid on March 7.
Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. Our forecast for 2014 reflects actions we are taking to grow our business:
growth in Victoria's Secret real estate; increased store-selling payroll, driven by our efforts to improve the customer experience; and investments in international expansion. These actions will drive sales growth, but will result in near-term expense pressure, both in buying and occupancy and SG&A.
Occupancy costs are estimated to increase by approximately $125 million this year or about 7%. This increase is driven by increased rent for incremental square footage for new and remodeled stores in the United States, Canada and the U.K.; increased accelerated depreciation for stores that we are remodeling before the end of the lease term; and increased depreciation related to the new and remodeled stores that were opened over the last several years. Our first quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase, which reflects a February comp forecast in line with our previous guidance of flat to up low single digit. We expect the first quarter gross margin rate to be down to last year, driven by a slight decrease in the merchandise margin rate and buying and occupancy deleverage. We expect some improvement in the SG&A rate. We expect nonoperating expense in the first quarter to be between $80 million and $85 million versus $76 million last year, a negative impact of about $0.01, driven by incremental interest expense related to the November 2013 $500 million bond issuance. We expect earnings per share between $0.44 and $0.49 in the first quarter against last year's $0.48 result. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth will be about 2 points higher than comps, due to growth in square footage in our international business. We expect our full year gross margin rate to be down slightly and the SG&A rate to be about flat to last year. Nonoperating expenses, consisting principally of interest expense, are projected between $310 million and $315 million versus $298 million in 2013, a negative impact of $0.02 to $0.03 per share. Before any discrete items, our tax rate will be approximately 38%. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 297 million in the first quarter and the full year, roughly flat to 2013. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2014 to be between $3 per share and $3.20 per share. We are projecting 2014 CapEx of about $750 million. As you know, about 70% of our CapEx budget is for real estate and stores. The remainder relates to investments in technology, logistics and facilities. As detailed on Page 13 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in North America will increase by just under 6% this year, driven by expansions of existing VS stores and the opening of 37 new PINK stores and 19 new Victoria's Secret stores. Total company square footage will increase by about 3.5%. Turning to liquidity. We expect 2014 operating cash flow of between $1.35 billion and $1.45 billion and free cash flow of about $600 million to $700 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, result in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks, and now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our fourth quarter results are detailed on Page 16 of your presentation materials. Victoria's Secret segment had mixed results in the fourth quarter. We had a solid start to holiday with high single-digit sales growth over last year during the Black Friday weekend and Cyber Monday. In addition, we succeeded in driving mid- to high single-digit growth throughout the quarter in our key categories of bras, panties and fragrance. However, we continued to have some misses in apparel. We also added incremental promotion as a result of the challenging environment. While we succeeded in driving traffic, our actions had a negative impact on our margin rate in both channels.
On the other hand, we continued our focus on expense management and were, therefore, able to leverage our SG&A expenses. Segment operating income in this year's 13-week fourth quarter declined $42.5 million or 9% to last year's 14-week fourth quarter. The extra week last year accounted for over half of that decline. In the stores channel, fourth quarter comps increased 3% on top of a 3% increase last year, driven by growth across the assortment. Excluding the extra week last year, total sales increased by 5%. In addition, we had record in-store conversion for the 18th consecutive quarter. Our merchandise margin rate declined as we continue to see strong response to a marketing campaign and the added incremental promotional events. We also sold through a greater number of clearance items during semiannual sale this year, which helped drive our January comp store sales, but further eroded the quarter's margin rate. As a result, the gross margin rate was down significantly in the quarter, driven by the merchandise margin rate decline and deleverage in buying and occupancy expense. We leveraged SG&A as we focused on the disciplined management of expenses. Operating income in the quarter declined, driven by the one fewer week in the quarter. Excluding the impact of the extra week last year, operating income would have been about flat. In the Direct channel, fourth quarter sales on a comparable calendar basis were down 1% as the double-digit decline in apparel offset strong performance in Lingerie, Sports and Beauty. The merchandise margin rate was down significantly as we had incremental promotions, which, combined with the sales decline, resulted in lower merchandise margin dollars. Operating income dollars declined compared to last year, driven by the decline in merchandise margin dollars and the one fewer week this year. Turning to our full year segment results on Page 17. Victoria's Secret stores comp increased 3% with total store sales, excluding the extra week last year, up 5%. Victoria's Secret Direct sales on a comparable calendar basis decreased 3%. Total segment sales increased to $6.7 billion, and operating income declined by $56.5 million to $1.1 billion. The merchandise margin rate decreased versus last year in both channels. The operating income rate was down in the stores channel. But operating income increased, both including and excluding the impact of the 53rd week in 2012. In the Direct channel, operating income rate and dollars declined year-over-year. Looking ahead to the first quarter, we will continue to focus on our core categories of bras and panties and we are excited about our spring assortment. We will be conservative in our expectations for the season, and we will leverage speed to read and react to performance in terms of our investments in inventory and expenses. We will continue to focus on the balance between driving traffic into our stores and maintaining the integrity of our brand, while also working to balance margin, dollar growth with rate. Consistent with Stuart's earlier comments regarding capital, we are continuing to invest in real estate and customer-facing initiatives to support current and future growth. We are focused on getting better and better, especially in all things that touch the customer, from product to service and selling. We will continue growth from our core and are confident about the opportunities in our adjacent categories of swim and sport. We have great products and newness across all categories this season. Those products, along with our emotional brand experience, will inspire her to return again and again. We will balance our optimism with a continued focus on executing with discipline, simplicity and speed. Thanks. And now I will turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. Our Bath & Body Works results for the fourth quarter were below our expectations as we were unable to grow earnings versus our record performance last year.
We will remain committed and focused on the fundamentals we do well and recognize that we must keep getting better to win. Sales performance was below our expectations throughout most of holiday. While we did see strength in seasonal forms and strong response to certain promotional events, the overall assortment and shop activity did not cut through enough with the customer to win in a highly promotional environment. Sales in our 3 key businesses, Signature Collection, home fragrance and soap and sanitizers, all performed at or above the total company level during the quarter. We were able to improve upon our already high conversion rates during the quarter, but it was unable to offset, fully offset challenging traffic levels. We did have a successful semiannual sale following the holiday season, and we're pleased with our decision to extend the sale through the Martin Luther King, Jr. holiday weekend. Total sales for the 13-week quarter were $1.2 billion, down 4% or $44 million to the 14-week quarter last year. Comps decreased 1% on top of a 7% increase last year. Excluding the additional week last year, total sales would have been about flat to last year. For the quarter, our operating income was $377 million, down $21 million or 5% from last year. The decrease was principally the result of the additional week last year. Operating income, as a percentage of sales, was 31% in the quarter and was down 60 basis points to last year. Gross margin rate in the quarter was down to last year driven by increased promotional activity. SG&A expenses leveraged versus last year. Although we missed sales expectations, we were able to finish the quarter with inventory levels only up slightly to last year and in line with expectations even as the business transitioned through multiple key product restages and relaunches. For fiscal 2013, operating income was $619 million, up $14 million or 2% versus last year. Adjusting for the additional week last year, operating income would have been up about 5%. Operating income, as a percentage of sales, was 21.1%, up 30 basis points to last year. Gross margin rate was down to last year, driven by increased promotional activity in the fourth quarter. SG&A expenses leveraged versus last year. We were pleased with the performance of BBW Direct channel, which delivered sales and operating income growth versus last year in the quarter. Sales for the full year exceeded $250 million. Looking ahead to the first quarter of 2014, we will continue to introduce newness and innovation in both form and fragrance. This month, we transitioned from our Sweet Shop theme, featuring new and seasonal fragrances in our 3 key businesses, to the relaunch of our soap business, featuring new formulation and packaging in both core and seasonal fragrances. We're excited about the assortment, but we will continue to manage expenses and inventory conservatively. Our overall focus continues to be about getting faster and better at understanding and satisfying our customers' needs, while providing them with a world-class in-store experience. In addition to focusing on products and fragrance launches, we will continue to test and read the results of new product offerings and promotional strategies, while maintaining flexibility in our inventory to react quickly to our customers' preferences. We believe we have a significant opportunity going forward to leverage our hindsights and tests and key learnings from the prior year to impact 2014 results. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. As in previous calls, I shall give you a brief overview of progress in our international businesses. As we all know, our opportunity for international growth is significant, and we feel good about the strategic choices we made to be steady and purposeful, to pursue a test-and-learn philosophy that reflects the DNA of our company.
We made good progress in the fourth quarter. And as detailed on Page 14 of your presentation, we opened 160 international locations in 2013 to end the year with 863 international stores. As you will see when you receive the segment information after this call, revenue and profit from our Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works stores outside of North America grew substantially in 2013. Taking each business in turn. At Victoria's Secret International, we continue to be pleased with the performance of our full assortment stores. We now have 34 stores in Canada and we'll open another 7 stores this year. Going forward, Canada will be included with the Victoria's Secret segment. The Victoria's Secret Canada business has grown rapidly and is now about the same size as La Senza in Canada. In the U.K., we continue to be very pleased with our London flagship store on Bond Street and have recently acquired a long lease on the adjacent property to allow us to expand the selling area later this year. The 4 mall locations, 3 of which we opened in 2013, all continue to perform well. And we will open another 6 stores in the U.K. this year, continuing to build out our footprint. PINK is and will be represented in all of our locations in the U.K. In the Middle East, we now have 4 VS Full Assortment stores open under our partnership with Alshaya. We continue to be delighted with the results, and we'll open another 8 to 10 stores this year in that region. Staying with Victoria's Secret, our Beauty & Accessories business continues to progress well with 198 locations open at the end of the year, 1/3 of which are in airports. We will add about another 100 stores in 2014. In Bath & Body Works International, we are now up to 79 stores in Canada and we will open another 10 stores this year. As I mentioned earlier for Victoria's Secret, the results of our Bath & Body Works Canada business will now be reported within the Bath & Body Works sector going forward. We now have 55 BBW stores under our franchise partnerships and we continue to be very pleased with the performance of these stores with notable openings in Southeast Asia and Latin America within the last few months. We expect to open another 20 to 30 BBW franchise stores in the year ahead. Turning to La Senza. We were not satisfied with fourth quarter performance. Comps in Canada declined 3%, and our merchandise margin rate declined significantly. As such, we have decided to defer our entry into the United States for the time being. On a positive note, we did successfully implement new merchandising systems in the business this fall, and we continue to see growth in our core Lingerie category, which now represents 90% of the business. We will continue to focus on improving operating results in this business and focusing on our core. As Stuart mentioned earlier, going forward, we will no longer separately report La Senza's results, which will remain within the Other segment, given the immateriality of the business to our total enterprise. So that's an update from international. As I know you know, we're not dependent on international for growth and our overarching priority is the strength of our brands in North America. And now I'll say thank you and turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared remarks. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Thanks, and now I'll turn the call back to Michelle.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from Brian Tunick from JPMorgan.
Brian Tunick:
Two quick ones for Sharen, if I could. Sharen, I think this is the second holiday in a row that there was a lot of zigging and zagging out there. So what are some of the key takeaways that you and Les had to better position the brand at holiday for next year, if this is really the new world out there, just given how much profitability Victoria's Secret has in the fourth quarter and holiday? And the second question is it looks like the innerwear market growth, the reported numbers were flattish in 2013. So wondering about your position as an innovator to drive newness against several strong years of the category's growth. Just love your thoughts on that.
Sharen Turney:
Great, Brian. Thank you. Let me take holiday first. There is a lot of learns. I think, on the opinion maker days for Victoria's Secret, whether it's Black Friday through Cyber Monday and the week before Christmas, we really kind of won. What we have found, and this is just truly a customer mind shift [ph], is those 2 weeks prior to Christmas they're big-volume weeks. But that's going to require a total rethink. And as we have hindsighted what our strengths were and our opportunities were for next holiday, we're applying that as we think about, not only the holiday season, but throughout the entire fall season. I do not think that the customer mindset is going to change. I do not believe that holiday is what holiday used to be. It's interesting, we saw a lot of shift into self-purchasing versus gifting. And I think that we just have to put that in our playbook as we approach next fall and holiday. In terms of the innovation piece, I think that, that is something that I'm proud to say that we continue to excel at. If I look at our innovation pipeline, sitting here and looking at 2014, there are some very new things coming our way. We just launched one of the -- an original T-shirt bra, and you would think, "hmm, T-shirt bra, isn't that out there?" We just launched that this week. Very successful, so far, for the launch. And as I look out through the entire fall and holiday season, we see many opportunities within that bra innovation. And as you know, as we approach innovation, we always approach it as what are we solving for the customer? So it's not just something that is a frill, but it's something that will mean something to her and that we can gain credibility with her and get her loyalty to come back to us. So I'm excited about what we see.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Brian.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Simon (sic) [Simeon] Siegel from Nomura Securities.
Simeon Siegel:
So maybe just for Nick. Can you talk about the longer-term margin objectives, maybe your AUR expectations, given your commentary around the environment? And I guess, just in a mall filled with all these storewide discounts, how do you view your promotional messaging?
Nicholas Coe:
So I think when we think about AUR and ticket, I think many of you noticed we've taken some ticket increases last year. And in some cases, we've been able to push that all the way through, and in some cases, we might be at the edge of how far we can go. So in my perspective, at this juncture is that we want to be really, really balanced between where can we push margin and how do we drive growth and I don't think that's a simple blanket statement across each of the different segments. I think it's one for us to play with as we read and react to the business. As it relates to your question in terms of the highly promotional marketplace, I think we had a lot of really good learnings as we went through fourth quarter and it becomes incredibly difficult to compete with, in many cases, entire store, 50% off. And that's not what we are aspiring to do with the brand. So I think we were able to test and play with different ideas on different days that yielded us really good traffic and healthy margin rates that we should be able to implement for next year. And then I would say the real work that needs to be done is in the first quarter of this year as we start thinking about planning those and what do they mean so that we can go into fourth quarter next year. As Sharen said, I agree, I don't think the customer's mindset's going to change. But that we control is our ability to play differently in there while still trying to keep -- while still trying to protect the brand equity.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Simeon.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Ike Boruchow from Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
Stuart, I just wanted to ask you about the inventory guidance that you laid out. It looks like inventories per foot are up about 9% right now and I think that you said that you expect them up mid-singles at the end of Q1 and then flat by Q2. Just curious, some of the puts and takes around what it takes to get there in terms of comp and how much margin you're willing to give up to kind of clear the decks by the end of Q2.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks, Ike. The sales assumptions that run along with the inventory projection that we have are not aggressive sales assumptions. So they're consistent with the guidance that we've provided with respect to earnings. What's driving it is, as you know, a meaningful part of the increase year-on-year was investment in core lingerie at Victoria's and sport bras at Victoria's and some investment related to the international business as well. We have detailed projections, as you would expect, and I am confident that we'll be at mid-single digit by the end of Q1 and should be about flat by the end of Q2. We will have a little bit of an increase beyond sales growth in February and March. But again, mid-single by end of Q1 and flattish by the end of spring, and again, based on a conservative sales assumption. In terms of margin impact related to that, the quality of the inventory is very good. So there's a lot of things, obviously, that affect a margin rate in the business. But based on the nature of the inventory, not expecting a lot of margin pressure related to that inventory.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Ike.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Jennifer Davis from Buckingham Research.
Jennifer Davis:
Two quick ones. I guess, we'll see Canadian sales later when you give us your, I guess, your new reporting segments. But I was wondering if you could maybe give us a little color around the franchise revenues and then any comments maybe on the margins there. And then, Stuart or Sharen, I guess, I was wondering if you could provide us with a little more color around Victoria's Secret margins in 2013 kind of excluding the impact of the 53rd week. How much of the margin pressure did you see from square footage expansion and how much from increased promotional activity? And then should we think about 2014 in a similar manner? And then I'll throw one more in -- longer term, how do you guys feel about Victoria's Secret's ability to increase margins to the 20%-ish range?
Amie Preston:
Okay. Jennifer, we may have lost some of those questions in there. I'll take the first one about franchise revenues. I mean, we'll put this out obviously later today. But especially, what that will look like for fiscal year '13 is total revenues in excess of about $200 million and an operating margin rate that, as we've said in the past, is accretive to our total company operating margin, so above that 16% margin. Stuart, I don't know if you caught all of her questions in the second part. But...
Sharen Turney:
I can speak to the Victoria's Secret, Jennifer, in terms of the 2013 margins for Victoria's Secret. It was primarily -- really 3 things. One is that we did have some miss in PINK in terms of our assortments early on in the season. And by cleaning those out and getting the new assortments in was a margin hit for us. I do believe that we, of course, corrected those assortments as we go into the spring season. The second piece of it was the promotional environment that we saw. Although we did have some big key items that we had engineered, it wasn't enough to basically drive the traffic and get the sales that we needed. And the third piece is that as we continue to do GWPs in our marketing initiatives, it continues to exceed our expectation. The next question that you asked, do we see a road map to getting Victoria's Secret to 20%? If I looked at it from a total segment perspective, including the Direct channel, we do. I think it will probably take us a couple of years to get there. We have a big initiative in terms of margin architecture and how we are looking at the business, both from a top line sales growth, the product categories they're in, editing out some peripheral categories that are not margin accretive for us. So I think that we're well positioned as we go forward to be able to continue to see growth on the top line and reach our ultimate goal of 20% operating income total segment.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Jennifer.
Operator:
Your next question comes from John Morris from BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
Two questions. First, for Stuart. SG&A down 7%, really good cost control there. Maybe talk about any of the components that helped you got there. Where were you able to really achieve that? And then as you look ahead to next year, with the guidance that you have, give us the puts and takes on the plan into 2014, essentially flattish. Would you say that there are any particular cost savings we should be looking for there? And where, in particular, are the investments? And then just quickly from Sharen, maybe if she can talk about the VSX product and how that's performing and what the plans are in the coming year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, John. With respect to the SG&A result for 2013, so the leverage of 110 basis points, the company took some actions at the beginning of 2013 to reduce discretionary spending. We talked about those things at the beginning of the year, broad-based effort, third-party expenses and some internal costs. Through the year, we had a focus on managing expenses in a very controlled way, and I think across the businesses, did that well. And then the other driver that I would mention is that there is a meaningful component of SG&A related to performance based or incentive compensation, and as we didn't meet our company goals this year, those costs were down year-on-year. It's not the primary driver, but it was a contributor to the SG&A leverage that we realized in 2013. As we think about 2014, our mind-set will continue to be to grow expenses slower than sales. There is slight leverage in our beginning-of-year view of 2014. And collectively, we're working hard again to manage expenses growing slower than sales with a focus on -- particularly as it relates to noncustomer-facing expenses, as you would expect us to do, John. So that's some more color on expenses.
John Morris:
And Sharen?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, we made the decision that we felt like that we had a great assortment in our sport bra category. So we said, let's go forward and roll sport bras to all stores, of which we did in October. We've been very pleased with the performance of the sport bras. As we continue to go forward, we have rolled the full assortment of sport out to more stores. Where we continue to roll out the full assortment, it can penetrate a store anywhere from 10% to 15%. So our focus was, okay, we're best at bras. Let's go dominate that category. We see great repurchase in that sport bra category. We've seen new customers in that sport bra category into Victoria's Secret. So we're feeling very optimistic about that as we go forward.
John Morris:
And further extensions there, Sharen, opportunity?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, there are. It's about -- as we continue to work on expanding our real estate and our square footage, where we're constrained is at -- is within square footage.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Stuart, you had been talking post-holiday about a refocus on feeding the supply chain here in 2014. I'm wondering if either you or Sharen or Nick could offer some examples of some of the things you're been working on this year. And then a question specifically for Sharen. In the apparel category, can you just reflect back on 2013 and how your go-forward strategy is being informed by the performance, both either in licensed apparel and other apparel? And what's the kind of ultimate goal for that category going forward?
Sharen Turney:
Kim, I will start with that speeding the -- in the supply base. We've done a lot of work and when I think about that we can order and receive panties in 7 to 15 days, so we've done a lot of the low-hanging fruit, as I would call it, from a speed perspective. Now as we think about all the way up into raw materials and component pieces and how we're thinking about that, and really the mind-set for us is to think about that if the factory was in our parking lot and how would we react to that. So we're doing a lot of work. And in fact, we are going -- quick trip to the Far East soon to be able to continue to work through that. So it's a continuation of an initiative for us as we go forward. So lot of exciting things, which would take longer than this call to go through all the things that we're working on. But if you have to think about it, from when we get an idea all the way to what's delivered in the store and says I do or I take it. When I think about the apparel business, let me kind of break it down. Our PINK business, which is about 45% is the lounge business. It is a strong, healthy business and well recognized. We had a bump in the road as we went into fall season, just missed a trend. I believe that we're back on track and we're seeing good results as we go into the spring season. When I think about the apparel business and the Direct business, our focus is going to continue in the Direct business to focus on the shared categories and continue to diminish the emphasis on that apparel category and actually probably thinking about and exiting some of that woven category as we go forward.
Nicholas Coe:
Kimberly, so a couple of things looking forward. The first one is we'll probably be pushing for further reduction in lead time on our candle business just because of the strength of our home business, which has been growing at a pretty healthy clip. I think the second thing is, as I look back at last year and as we mentioned in the opening comments, our seasonal business was extremely good. So we'll continue to really utilize the Beauty part to make sure that we're maximizing that part of our business, which turned out to be stronger and better than we anticipated as we went into fourth quarter. So that will be really important. And then just overall, I think maximizing it as we did last year that allowed us to finish, we missed our expectations in the fourth quarter, but we were able to finish the year with fundamentally flat inventory. So we'll continue to use that model as a critical component to winning as we go through 2014.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Nick.
Operator:
The next question comes from Roxanne Meyer from UBS.
Roxanne Meyer:
My question is on merchandise margins. I'm wondering, Stuart, if you can tell us what your assumption is for the full year embedded in your guidance for merchandise margins. And then how do you think about the long-term opportunity for margins, for the merchandise margins, specifically, and the progression? And how important is merchandise margin as a driver to get to your high teens or 20% margin goal?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So Roxanne, thanks. With respect to what's implicit in our guidance for 2014, for the whole company, we're expecting a slight improvement in the merchandise margin rate for the full year. The amount of buying and occupancy deleverage is a little bit greater than that, which is how we get to the slight deleverage on the gross profit or gross margin line. So slight improvement in merch margin for '14. As it relates to the longer-term view on merchandise margin rates, Sharen and Nick may want to comment on those. But for the company, getting to 20%, the primary driver, as I've talked about previously, is driving sales growth and leveraging expenses over time. There might be some opportunity, further opportunity in merchandise margin rates, but really the key driver is top line growth and expense leverage.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
A couple of questions, if I may. On international expansion. I guess, it looks like compared to what you guys outlined at ICR, the VSBA openings in '14 are a little bit lower, I think, by 25 stores, give or take, and you're adding a few more full assortment international stores. So maybe talk about what's driving the change in thinking there, and what are some of the differences in returns that you guys are seeing between the 2 formats? And then, to Nick, on Bath & Body, has been choppy lately. And environment, obviously, is promotional. Maybe talk about how should we think about operating margin performance at this division? And what are some of the categories you see as areas of opportunity in '14?
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Anna. We'll start with Martin.
Martin Waters:
Sure. Thanks, Anna. No real change in our philosophy or thinking from when we last updated. I think within the international sector, we see 3 key engines for growth. The first is the Victoria's Secret full assortment stores where we'll open about 15 in the year ahead. Some of those are company-owned in the U.K., as you know. The majority of them are under our franchise partnership in the Middle East, about 15 stores there. The VSBA business is growing at about the rate that we predicted, 100-or-so stores within 2014, very good e-commerce there. And then the BBW franchise business at about 20 to 30 stores during the year ahead. So I think, on balance, that's about where we predicted it to be. There are always a few puts and takes based on availability of real estate at any given time. So I think you could expect that number, any of those numbers, to swing by plus or minus 10%.
Nicholas Coe:
Well, looking at operating margin, we were -- actually, we were up last year 30 bps. So in a pretty healthy place. And I think the outlook on that would be flat. And if anything, if there's any upside, the thing we would want to be doing would be in a position to reinvest that back into the brand, which is a conversation Stuart and I and Les have been having. In terms of thinking about opportunity as we go forward, I think, probably, the big opportunity that could impact that and should impact top line as well is just the natural trajectory of our home business, which has been pretty good. So as I mentioned earlier on, even as we went through a challenging holiday, all 3 of our core businesses either grew at or better than shop and then home was a key player in that. And even as we go into this year, that continues to perform. So I think, looking at the margin rate there and the growth there, how does that impact both top line and bottom line opportunity for us.
Amie Preston:
Great. Thanks, Nick. Thanks, Anna. [Operator Instructions]
Operator:
The next question comes from Matt McClintock from Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
Martin, I was wondering now that the stores in United Kingdom have been opened for a while, could you just share with us any lessons or surprises that you've seen in those specific stores regarding any specific or different merchandise categories? And then, specifically, as you look to expand that store, the flagship store, what opportunities are you looking to address with that expansion?
Martin Waters:
Sure. I'll take that. So the headline in the U.K. is we're pleased with the results. I would say, in terms of comparing the merchandise mix and the sales rates in those stores with our business in the North America, it's substantially similar. As we always say, what sells here, sells there; what sells there, sells here. So that's very good news in terms of simplicity of expanding the organization and the operation there. Specifically, on Bond Street, we have terrific sales densities in that store. The opportunity came to get some contiguous real estate, which allows us to develop a much better customer experience and hopefully add some additional categories where we're short on space, particularly in areas like Beauty, swim, sport and some of the other great categories within the VS.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Martin. Thanks, Matt.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen from Citigroup.
Oliver Chen:
On a bigger picture perspective, you've been such pioneers on speed and test, read-and-react. On the omni-channel side and the Direct business, are there opportunities for reserve-in-store programs or greater universalization of inventory?
Sharen Turney:
Oliver, this is Sharen. I'll take that. There's always opportunity. We were -- we've had a very long history of a Direct business. And I think, as you know, we opened up our give her what she wants with return in stores. There's -- when I just think about all the opportunities that we have and it's something that we have that we're focused on, how it is with a reserve and store pickup, whether it's the mobile opportunity, these are all big things and big nuggets that we're focused on as we go forward because we so believe that you've got to give the customer -- let her choose how she wants to shop. what tools she wants to and we want to make sure that we continue to provide her that with these.
Oliver Chen:
Are there anything you'd prioritize in terms of nearer term driving the comp?
Sharen Turney:
In omni-channel? I think that, right now, what -- there's a lot of things I'd prioritize in terms of comps. But from the omni channel perspective, one of the things that is surprising all of us is just the quick move to the mobile phone, not to the iPad, but actually to mobile phone. So much more transactions are being done. And that's one of the biggest things that we're seeing in the opportunity to utilize that across channels.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Oliver.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Jennifer Black from Jennifer Black & Associates.
Jennifer Black:
My question is for Sharen. I wondered if you could talk about logo-ing at both Victoria's Secret and PINK. How much are you toning it down? And how do you envision use of logos a year from now? We do understand that there's an international customer who really wants the logos. So I'd love your thoughts overall.
Sharen Turney:
Thanks, Jennifer. It's always a balance. I think that we are still seeing a different kind of logo and technique in PINK that's coming forward. As I think about Victoria's Secret, cleaning that up a bit, I think I do believe we're going into a trend where it's more simplistic than the heavily over logo-ed product and I think you'll see some changes from us within that as we go forward. The Victoria's Secret brand and the PINK brand are so highly emotional that there probably always will be a small package of that extreme logo product. But we'll just keep reading it and reacting to what the customer wants.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Jennifer.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Marni Shapiro from The Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
So Sharen, actually, I was actually going to speak on Victoria's Secret as well. I know you're planning down apparel at the Direct side. And you've talked about so many of the different areas within Victoria's Secret and PINK. And I guess, is the store feeling a little over-assorted. Is there an opportunity to edit the Victoria's Secret stores? I know, even as you're growing them, this seems counter-intuitive -- but to edit them to make them a little easier to shop. And when I think about PINK and the fact that you're trimming apparel at the Direct business, yet when I walk into PINK this spring, I felt like there's more apparel than I'm used to seeing. If you can just talk about those 2 topics?
Sharen Turney:
Sure, Marni. Appreciate the question. I think there's always an opportunity to edit out the peripheral. And when we think about really being focused, focused, focused in what's our best at and that is something that we continue to challenge ourselves with and I think that we will continue to be editing out the peripheral. The difference between the PINK apparel and the Direct apparel, the Direct apparel is truly, truly street wear, it's shoes, it's denim. What PINK is in is truly the lounge that actually targets that 18-year-old collegiate customer. And that's the real focus of that apparel business. And that's something that's not going to go away for us. And that's something that we're going to continue to focus on. But at the same time we do that, our penetration is moving higher and higher to the bras and to the panties. So when we think about that intimate apparel business in PINK is that the dominance will be bras and panties and the apparel is the icing and the layer that goes back to that.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. And thanks, Marni.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Betty Chen from Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
Just continuing on that train of thought regarding apparel for Victoria's Secret Direct. How quickly can we see the minimization of apparel online? And when do you feel like that's really going to be the big inflection point?
Sharen Turney:
I think into fall 2014 into spring 2015.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Thanks, Betty.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Laura Champine from Canaccord.
Laura Champine:
Could you talk about what your assumptions are looking at that low single-digit comp this year in terms of mall traffic and your own ticket overall?
Amie Preston:
Sure. We'll go to both Sharen and Nick for that.
Sharen Turney:
Basically, what we're looking at is mall traffic being flat. I mean, it's interesting, over the last couple of weeks, we've been exceeding the mall traffic. But it's from our conservative perspective, we think mall traffic will be flat. In terms of our AURs, are up slightly, but not dramatically.
Amie Preston:
And Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, I can't imagine why we would be looking for anything other than flat traffic. And we've played with ticket a fair amount, so I really think us being focused on conversion right now to maximize that will be the key focus area for us.
Amie Preston:
Great, thanks. Let's do a couple more here.
Operator:
Your next question comes from John Kernan from Cowen.
John Kernan:
Just a quick question for Martin. It sounds like Victoria's Secret in the U.K. is ramping nicely. Have you thought at all about e-commerce in Europe and launching any country-specific websites?
Martin Waters:
Sure, absolutely. And of course, we do currently ship from our e-comm business to 200 countries around the world. So that is something we're actually engaged in. However, as we've said before, we believe the best way for the Victoria's Secret brand to come to life in a new market is with a built environment and the service proposition that goes around that. So yes, we thought about it. It's just not our highest priority right now.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John. Two more.
Operator:
Next question comes from Blair Pircon from Robert W. Baird.
Blair Mlnarik:
Martin, could you talk a little bit more about some of the other regions, specifically reception for the various brands in the Middle East and other places around the world? And how you're feeling about entering China, leading with VSBA, and the opportunity there?
Martin Waters:
Sure. I think when we last updated, we've said our priority geographical focus is in 3 areas of the world. The first is Middle East and Turkey where we have a very substantial partnership with Alshaya Group. We'll be growing that business significantly in the year ahead across all of our formats. The second priority is the U.K., thinking about the opportunity that, that affords us into Continental Europe in the [indiscernible], so really building out our business in the U.K. The third is Southeast Asia where we're seeing great growth in VSBA and in the Bath & Body Works format, and La Senza continues to perform well there. And of course, that is the lead indicator for China, which will be an incredibly significant market for us in the future. We will open our first VSBA stores in Mainland China later this year. So excited about that.
Amie Preston:
Thank you. Thanks, Blair.
Operator:
And your final question will come from Randy Konik from Jefferies.
Randal Konik:
I guess, a question for Stuart. How do you think about the plans for, I guess, La Senza, given that you're going to not start reporting pieces of the business? Does it really fit into the key natures of where you guys are trying to take the company long-term? And then how do you think about net debt-to-EBITDAR targets for the company?
Amie Preston:
Thanks. We'll go to Martin, actually, I think, for the La Senza question.
Martin Waters:
Yes, sure. So we absolute believe in the notion of owning the 3 best intimate apparel brands in the world, Victoria's Secret, PINK and La Senza, and having clear blue water between the positioning of each of those brands. And I think evidenced by La Senza continuing to trade well in centers in Canada and the Middle East where Victoria's Secret has entered in a dominant way gives us great optimism that we can position those brands differently and that La Senza can have a relevant place in our enterprise. Our focus is going to be on building better assortments in core categories, zeroing in on the young, sexy obvious positioning and improving our store experience overall.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Randy, on leverage, we're not formulaic about it. So we don't manage to a specific number. But with that said, leverage, as we would look at it on an adjusted basis in the mid-3s feels about right to us and that's where we've been over the last several years as we've updated regularly and periodically. So in the mid-3s feels about right. Obviously, that's a function of the cost of debt in relation to the cost of equity. Our maturity profile is good. But in the mid-3s feels about right.
Amie Preston:
That's great. Thanks, Randy. And thanks, everyone, for joining us today and for your interest in L Brands.
Operator:
Thank you, everyone. This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Michelle, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Limited Brands Third Quarter 2013 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for Limited Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Michelle, and good morning, everyone. Welcome to Limited Brands Third Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, November 2, 2013.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our third quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, limitedbrands.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. This call is being taped and can be replayed by dialing (1) 866-NEWSLTD. You can also listen to an audio replay on our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we will be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] As a reminder, all results we will discuss on this call today are adjusted results and exclude the 2012 significant onetime items that are described in our press release. Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. In a challenging environment, we were able to increase operating income by 7% and earnings per share by 19%. We were more promotional than initially planned in order to drive our 3% comp. Our $0.03 EPS beat versus the high end of our guidance was driven about equally by our focus on expense management and a better-than-anticipated tax rate.
Total sales increased 6% to $2.171 billion, and comps increased 3% on top of a 5% increase last year. Our gross margin rate declined by 130 basis points driven by a decline in the merchandise margin rate and a slight increase in the buying and occupancy rate. As we've mentioned previously, buying and occupancy expense is increasing as we invest in real estate expansion for Victoria's Secret and International. These investments continue to deliver very strong returns. We focused on expense discipline across the enterprise, and SG&A expense dollars increased by 1% and leveraged by 140 basis points. Operating income dollars increased by 7%, and the rate increased by 10 basis points. Sharen and Nick will discuss their segment results. Operating income in the Other segment increased by $14.9 million, primarily driven by an increase in Mast sourcing and International. Earnings per share increased 19% to $0.31. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 8% versus last year. As a reminder, part of the increase is related to previous Body by Victoria product, which will be sold in the January semiannual sale, and by increased investment in bras and sport, which is rolled out to all stores in October. We continue to manage inventories thoughtfully and with discipline. We plan to end the year with inventory up in the mid to high single-digit range. Turning to Page 11 of the presentation for our forecast for 2013. We expect fourth quarter earnings per share between $1.67 and $1.82 versus last year's 14-week result of $1.76 and 13-week results of $1.68. Versus our previous forecast, this estimate includes $0.02 of incremental interest expense related to the $500 million notes issued in October. Our fourth quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase, consistent with our year-to-date trend. Depending on our comp results, our fourth quarter sales could range from about $30 million below last year to $75 million above last year, including the extra week in last year's result. We expect the fourth quarter gross margin rate to be down to last year, driven by a decline in the merchandise margin rate and an increase in the buying and occupancy expense rate. We expect the fourth quarter SG&A rate to decrease versus last year, driven by our continued focus on expense management. Non-operating expenses, consisting primarily of interest expense, are projected at about $80 million in the fourth quarter, and our projected tax rate is 38%, and our weighted average shares outstanding are forecasted at about 297 million. For the full year, we are projecting positive low-single digit comps. Total sales growth on a 52 to 52-week basis will be about 2 to 3 points higher than comps due to growth in square footage in our International business. We expect our full year gross margin and SG&A rates to be down to last year. Assuming all of these inputs and others which are detailed in the presentation, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2013 to be between $3.07, $3.22 per share. We expect 2013 CapEx of about $700 million. The increase in CapEx versus last year is attributable to increased real estate investment at Victoria's Secret, primarily to increase square footage for PINK. As we previously noted, only about 25% of our current stores carry the full PINK assortment. As detailed on Page 12 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in the U.S. will increase by just under 4% this year, driven by expansions of existing VS stores and the opening of about 50 new PINK stores. Total company square footage will increase by just under 3%. Turning to liquidity. We expect free cash flow in 2013 of about $650 million to $750 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with additional availability under our revolving credit facility, result in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart. Victoria's Secret's third quarter results are detailed on Page 14 of your presentation material. Overall, the results for the segment were met. We experienced double-digit growth in bras and panties in both VS Lingerie and PINK. In addition, we also experienced double-digit growth in fragrance, our best add in the Beauty category. However, we had some misses in apparel, both in PINK and in the direct channel. As result, we missed our expectation.
In response to lower sales in apparel and in order to drive more traffic to our stores, we increased our promotional activity, particularly during the Columbus Day weekend. In addition, we continue to see greater overall response to our planned GWP and direct mail. Therefore, as a result, our merchandise margin dollars increased, but our merchandise margin rate declined. Segment operating income declined $10 million or 6% to last year. The timing shift caused by the 53rd week in 2012 had a $10 million negative impact on the store channel operating income as the first week of the August bra launch was pulled into end of the second quarter this year versus being in the beginning of third quarter last year.
In the store channel, third quarter sales increased 5%, and comps were up 4%, with sales growth in each of our businesses, Lingerie, PINK and Beauty. As highlighted earlier, we had double-digit growth in core categories:
bras, fragrance and panties. While merchandise margin dollars increased, our merchandise margin rate declined as we continue to see strong response from marketing campaigns and we added an incremental promotional event over the Columbus Day weekend.
Additionally, in order to accelerate sales in PINK apparel, we added price point promotions in September and October. Total expenses leveraged as SG&A improvement offset buying occupancy increases from our investment in real estate. Store channel operating income was about flat in the quarter with operating margins contracting slightly as a percent of sales. As mentioned earlier, the timing shift caused by the 53rd week in 2012 had a $10 million negative impact on the stores channel operating income. Our overall inventory is up over last year, reflecting increased investments in bras and in sport bras. Additionally, as we mentioned last quarter, we are carrying over previous Body by Victoria product that has been removed from the floor. This merchandise will be cleared during our January semiannual sale. In the direct channel, third quarter sales declined 1% as double-digit decreases in apparel and lower shipping handling revenue offset double-digit growth in Lingerie, PINK and Beauty. We continue to stay focused on driving our core business, bras, panties, PINK and Beauty. We are also very excited about the growth of sport in the direct channel. Our direct channel's third quarter merchandise margin rate was down significantly to last year, driven by increased promotional offers. Merchandise margin dollars decreased on the combination of the sales and rates declines. Operating income dollars declined as the decline in merchandise margin dollars more than offset a reduction in SG&A expenses. Looking ahead to fourth quarter, we are cautiously optimistic as we look forward to Black Friday and the balance of holiday. We have strong fashion-wide assortment filled with both self-purchase and gifting opportunity for holiday. We are looking forward to providing our customer with excellent in-store and online execution. Following the all-important Black Friday weekend, we are all very excited for the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, which will air on December 10, featuring musical performance by Taylor Swift, Fall Out Boy and others. We will continue to manage both inventory and expenses appropriately to optimize our business. In closing, we are pleased with the positive results in bras, panties and Fine Fragrance in the third quarter. There are also areas of opportunity, and we are focused on those for the fourth quarter. We are prepared for holiday and feel confident that we will provide our customers with world-class emotional brand experiences, both in-store and online. Thank you. And now I will turn it to Nick for discussion.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we remain committed and focused on the fundamentals we do well, and that led to record sales and operating income growth in the third quarter.
Comps increased 3% on top of 5% last year. Customers responded to newness in both form and fragrance in our 3 key categories:
our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business and our home fragrance assortment. We were pleased with the early results of our Signature Collection relaunch in October, which featured new formulation and packaging in multiple forms.
While traffic levels continue to be down during the quarter, but we were able to improve upon our already high conversion rates while also driving higher average dollar sales. Total sales for the quarter were $567 million, up 5% or up $28 million versus last year. The difference between the comp increase and the total sales increase was strong sales performance in the BBW Direct channel. For the quarter, our operating income was $67 million, up $9 million or up 15% to last year. Operating income as a percentage of sales was 12% in the quarter and was up 110 basis points to last year. Gross margin rate for the quarter was up slightly to last year. SG&A expenses leveraged versus last year. The BBW Direct channel also delivered operating income growth versus last year in the quarter. We finished the quarter with inventory levels about flat to last year. Looking ahead to the fourth quarter, we will continue to introduce newness and innovation in both form and fragrance. This month, we transitioned from the relaunch of our Signature Collection to our latest Prestige fragrance, Forever Midnight. We also introduced new and seasonal fragrances in our home fragrance and our soap and sanitizer business. Throughout the month, we will remain focused on sustaining the relaunch of our Signature Collection, Forever Midnight, and our holiday collections. We're excited about holiday assortment and our approach to holiday, but we will continue to manage expenses and inventory conservatively. Our overall focus continues to be about getting faster and better understanding and satisfying our customer needs while providing them with a world-class in-store experience. In addition to focusing on products and fragrance launches, we will continue to test and read the results of new product offerings and promotional strategies while maintaining flexibility in our inventory to react quickly to our customers' preferences. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. My comments this morning will focus on an update of our International businesses. We continue to believe that our opportunity for international growth is significant given the leadership position and awareness of our brands and the success we've seen to date.
Starting with Victoria's Secret International, we continue to be pleased with performance in our full assortment stores. We now have 31 stores in Canada, and we'll open another 3 stores during the balance of this year. In the U.K., we continue to be very pleased with our store on Bond Street and with the London Stratford store. We opened Manchester, Sheffield and Leeds this quarter and are encouraged by the results. We have committed to open 5 more stores in the U.K. in 2014. Elsewhere in the world, we have 4 Victoria's Secret full assortment stores under our franchise agreement with our partnership with Alshaya. These stores also do very well, and we will open several more next year. Our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well, and we ended the quarter with 159 stores open and are on track for about 200 by the end of 2013. About 70 of these stores are in airports and 130 are in mall locations. In Bath & Body Works International, we are now up to 79 stores in Canada and 48 stores under our partnership with Alshaya in the Middle East and Eastern Europe, with another 9 to come during the fourth quarter. And business has been good. Turning to La Senza. We continue to see signs of progress within the business. Comps in Canada increased 3% in the third quarter despite a more challenging October. The business saw a decline in merchandise margin rate and some increased expenses related to our SAP system implementation. We continue to be encouraged by the repositioning work we're engaged in, creating a distinct and compelling customer proposition to be globally appealing and highly scalable around the world. We still have a way to go to get our La Senza brand to an acceptable performance, but we remain optimistic. So that's an update on International. As I know you know, we're not dependent on International for growth. Our overarching priority is the strength of our brands in North America. And with that, I'll say thank you and turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments for this morning. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Michelle, I'll turn it back over to you.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Ike Boruchow from Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess my question is for Sharen. Could you comment, within what you're seeing a Vicky's [ph] right now, the past 6 or 9 months, the weakness at the direct-to-consumer online platform, could you give us the puts and takes, how much longer would you expect until you can kind of get that business turned around? And then the Beauty business for holiday, with Susie's product, any thoughts there as well?
Sharen Turney:
Sure, Ike. let me take the direct question first. We're seeing double-digit growth in our shared product category. The biggest negative increase that we've seen is in the apparel category. We are -- we believe that we have some course correction that we have done for the fourth quarter and into spring season. But I think that we are obviously downplaying that business as we go forward and putting our emphasis on the shared categories. When I think about the Beauty business, our continued focus on our Fine Fragrance business, we have some very strong wind at our back as we launch the Victoria fragrance in August, as well as the Night fragrance. We have 2 more fragrances that we're launching this holiday season, which just launched on Tuesday, is Angel Dream and Bombshell Diamond. So I think that our focus on Fine Fragrance is paying off for us. We have narrowed our assortments in gift sets as we go forward to have a much higher emotional content. So we're pretty excited about the opportunity that we have within Beauty for holiday.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Christian Buss from Crédit Suisse.
Christian Buss:
I was wondering if you could talk a little bit about how you're thinking about e-Commerce as you move forward with your international rollout.
Amie Preston:
Sure, Christian. We'll go to Martin for that question.
Martin Waters:
Sure. I think, Christian, as you probably heard us talk about at our Investor Meeting, we have so much to so in the stores channel. We've decided to prioritize that first. We think when we launch our brands internationally, it makes sense to do so in the stores environment, delivering the highest level of emotional content through a built environment and through a great service proposition. We do see great potential in the online space, but it's just not our immediate priority right now.
Christian Buss:
Okay. And then could you talk a little bit about priorities for return of cash to shareholders?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Our priorities are consistent with what we've done over the last many years. And that is, first and foremost, to return excess cash to shareholders versus holding it, either to just hold it or as it might relate to M&A activity. So first point is we return it. And then the second point is we return it using 3 vehicles, which we've used extensively over the last several years
Operator:
Your next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger from Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is for Stuart. Stuart, as you look beyond the holiday season and out to 2014, understanding that you haven't issued any earnings guidance, can you just remind us of your sort of long-term financial goals? And within that, can you just put into context the Other segment? It looks like this year, the Other segment will show about $60 million, $55 million, $60 million roughly, in improvement year-over-year. Is that a pace that you think can be sustained or do you expect it to slow starting next year?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, Kimberly, there's a lot in that question. And that's a good question, understandably. And as you prefaced in your question, I'm going to be careful to not prematurely give guidance for '14 because we haven't finished '13 yet, and we've got some work to do to get it all sorted out for '14. But in answer to your question, our long-term financial goals start with improving the operating income rate of the overall business from about 16% or mid-16s to the high-teens, and over a longer-term basis, about 20%. So we've been clear about that over time. That continues to be an important goal for us, and we remain confident and committed to achieving that goal. The second goal that we've talked a lot about in the business is management's mindset, which is -- can be different than our guidance, as you know. But our mindset is through a combination of sales growth and margin improvement, good expense management, to grow operating income dollars at about 10%, which by the way, for the -- through the first 9 months of this year, is exactly what we've delivered. So we want to improve the rate of the business to high teens to ultimately 20%. We also understand that you take dollars home to the bank versus rate, and that's why we think about dollar growth as well. And again, our internal mindset is to grow at 10% or better. Not an easy thing to do, but something we did last year and we're on pace to do. Certainly have done for the first 9 months of this year. In terms of the Other segment, obviously, the actual results or the actual results this year, it has been an important contributor to operating income growth year to date. And that reflects contribution from the International business and also profit related to sourcing activity, both for internal customers, specifically VS and La Senza, and profit related to sourcing activity for third parties, including -- as you're aware, we sold a third-party sourcing business, apparel sourcing business, but we are sourcing for third parties related to Victoria's Secret and our franchise operations internationally. So that -- those have been the drivers of the Other segment. But for all major parts of our business, we're working very hard to generate 10% or better operating income growth. So hopefully, that's responsive to your question. And again, as you indicated, we'll give our normal guidance in February for 2014.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Thomas Filandro from Susquehanna Financial Group.
Thomas Filandro:
So Stuart, to give us comfort with the quarter-end inventory increase, could you help us better understand the makeup if you were to exclude that pack-away piece for semiannual sale at both brands? And as it -- separately but related to that, can Sharen and Nick sort of discuss semiannual sale positioning this year in terms of units, IMU and timing?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Tom. On the Q3 ending inventory, about 2 points of the growth, 2 percentage points of the growth, relates to the Body by Victoria inventory that will be sold in the January semiannual sale. And as Sharen described in her opening remarks, we've also made important, and we think, good investment in the sport business. And we've also made important, and we think, appropriate investment in basic and fashion bra depth, particularly in what I'll call the middle of the fleet, meaning not the highest-volume stores but in the middle of the fleet, and we think we're getting paid for that investment. So that really is the additional color, Tom, on drivers of square footage growth at the end of Q3. I think you had a follow-on question about semiannual sale positioning, which Sharen and Nick can address.
Sharen Turney:
Tom, first of all, the semiannual sale this year will fall in the last week of December versus last year falling in January, so there is some timing -- a little bit of timing shift due to the calendar. When I think about the units, our units will be up this year versus last year and slightly up to where we were in the summer months. Our IMU is also -- will be slightly up as we go into semiannual sale.
Nicholas Coe:
Thomas, for us, comparable timing, obviously, post-Christmas day, our mix will look slightly different and probably favorable because of the box-up of old signature that we'll obviously bring out. And then we'll do the same as we did in spring and summer sale, which is -- will be somewhat of a hybrid floor set as we finish that knowing that it's a highly, highly promotional period as we come out of sale before really spring hits. So comparable timing, slightly more interesting mix.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Matthew McClintock from Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
So challenging traffic trends in the mall and given the increased promotional activity, specifically this quarter. I was just wondering, how does that relate to your investments in selling? And have you pulled back on that at all? And then as a follow-up, more conceptually, are there specific product characteristics within intimate apparel that make the market intensification investments you're doing drive a higher return than maybe other product categories like apparel?
Sharen Turney:
Matthew, it's Sharen. First of all, when we think about the challenging traffic, obviously, we want to trend bust that this year. And we are not pulling back in terms of our selling investment. I think it's very important from how we give our customers the right service and the right emotional content, and that's something that we are focused on and we'll continue to go forward on. When I think about the market intensification, obviously, our core business, our bras, really lead and dominate the profitability of Victoria's Secret, and that's something that we're very focused on. The only apparel business that we really have in Victoria's Secret stores really lies in PINK. And I really wouldn't call it a true apparel business. I would call it a lounge business. And right now, in the PINK apparel business, the pleats [ph] slowed up a bit, but it's all about the leggings and tunics, of which we now post-corrected some of those assortments.
Operator:
Our next question comes from Anna Andreeva from Oppenheimer.
Anna Andreeva:
I guess a question to Stuart on the expense line. There were several initiatives that you guys took in the first quarter that helped the second quarter and the third quarter. And SG&A dollars has been managed extremely tightly. Just kind of curious, how should we think about SG&A management over the next 9 to 12 months? And just a quick follow-up on inventories. At up 14% on the balance sheet, a little higher than the 8% increase of cost you called out at the end of October. Could you maybe help us triangulate that? And how should we expect inventories to be managed as we go through '14?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes. So in terms of management of expenses, in terms of what's driving the leverage, it is -- we're getting leverage across major categories of expense. So there's not a particular thing to point to rather than the thing to know is that we're being disciplined and thoughtful about our expense levels, again, across all major categories, that being selling expenses, marketing expenses and home office expenses. The company is very committed over time to grow expenses slower than sales. And we're doing that this year, and I think you are kind of asking about mindset going into next year without getting into specific guidance. But we will continue to work hard to grow expenses slower than sales. So that's what I would tell you about that. With respect to the difference between the inventory growth per foot at 8% and the inventory growth in total on the balance sheet at 14%, the fundamental differences are 2. One is related to in-transit inventories, inbound in-transit inventories that are not available-for-sale yet. And then separately, Victoria's Secret Direct inventory is up, contributing to that difference, and it's up on inventory that was down substantially last year. So on a 2-year basis, it is still down. And as you would appreciate, Direct inventories aren't included in the per foot calculations. So -- and lastly, international-related inventory is also part of that in-transit as well. So that's really what's driving the difference between the per foot calc and the total balance sheet result.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Howard Tubin from RBC.
Howard Tubin:
Maybe you can just give us an update on your market intensification program, how it's continuing to work and how it moves forward into next year?
Amie Preston:
Sure. Howard, we'll go to Sharen for that question.
Sharen Turney:
We have been very pleased with our results in market intensification. As you know, we started in Chicago. We're on our third year in Chicago and continue to learn and continue to see increases in that market. As we have gone forward, we have taken some stores in Texas, both in Dallas and Houston, some stores in Florida, New York, New Jersey. And then as we enter into 2014, we'll be starting our journey into California.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Betty Chen from Mizuho Securities.
Betty Chen:
I was wondering if Nick can talk a little bit more about some of the opportunities at BBW. How much more lead time reduction do you think you can do as you continue to work on newness and innovation? I know you said earlier that one of the goals is to continue to test merchandise and really quicken the speed to market. Any color there will be really helpful.
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks for the question. Yes, for us, we'll continue -- I mean, 2 things, I think, are important. The first one is we've made dramatic strides in lead time reduction. And I think it's about continuing to do that, but it's also about making sure we've got a broad enough assortment of things that are on a speed model or are seasonally relevant that we would want to be able to read and react to as quick as we possibly can. The second thing that I would say is that the fact that we have the Beauty parks so close to us really leads us to have an opportunity to work even closer with the vendor and start establishing different approaches that might allow us to find further reductions. I think the biggest opportunity is really about how broad -- how much of the assortment is available to us on those shorter lead times versus continuing to try and take days out of it. So we've made dramatic progress in the soap and sanitizer business, as well as the Signature business. And we've begun to make pretty good progress as well in the candle business. So we'll continue that path. But again, it's really about the breadth that's available to us because that will have a bigger impact to the total store business.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Simeon Siegel from Nomura.
Simeon Siegel:
So for Nick, so the BBW margins continue to improve. Can you just talk about where you think that can go, maybe thoughts around taking price despite the challenging environment and then where you believe the direct penetration should go there? And then just quickly for Stuart, given the earlier commentary on the calendar shift impacts, can you just quantify the 53rd week impact you expect to sales and op income for the fourth quarter?
Nicholas Coe:
Sure, Simeon. So really, our #1 goal is about having as much full-price selling as we can get on the floor. And that, in our mind, is driven by 2 things
Simeon Siegel:
Yes. And then in terms of the direct business, I mean, do you see certain penetration there?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, we continue to see our direct -- as I mentioned earlier on in the prepared comments, we continue to see health in our direct business. We continue to see sales grow slightly faster than they are in stores and at a comparable operating income rate as well as growth in there as well. So yes, an important piece of the business.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
With respect to the 53rd week, so there is a little bit of art in estimating that. But as we look at it, we think the effect is between $130 million and $140 million of sales and about $40 million, plus or minus, in operating income.
Sharen Turney:
And Simeon, I'll just add, in Stuart's prepared remarks, we tried to help on sales guidance as well by saying that depending on the comp results, our fourth quarter sales could range from about $30 million below last year to $75 million above last year. So in terms of specific sales guidance for the fourth quarter, Stuart mentioned that in our upfront comments.
Operator:
Your next question is from Lorraine Hutchinson from Bank of America.
Lorraine Maikis:
As you look out over the next few years while planning your Victoria's Secret store expansion, how is the real estate availability in adjacent stores to VS? And how do you think that will balance between new PINK stores and expanded Victoria stores?
Sharen Turney:
So as we look out over the few years, obviously, one of the things that we would love to have is continuous square footage. It becomes harder and harder, and it's a mall-by-mall, store-by-store issue. So it's really hard to see in terms of all the square footage that we would like. Something that we're doing in the business constantly is saying, "Do we see a difference in whether sales or profitability if you separate PINK out from Victoria's Secret Lingerie?" And right now, we're not seeing that, whether it's in the same box or separated. But what happens over time? And so that's something that we're looking at. And then as we think about the growth is that you know that we're very -- we don't have all -- full assortment of Victoria's Secret in all the stores, nor in PINK. So we probably -- as we continue to expand and have free-standing PINK stores, you'll see 1% growth bigger in PINK, but true hard square footage, you'll see bigger stores in Victoria's Secret Lingerie. The beauty is the fact that we have a balance of both to be able to grow as we look out over the next 3 to 4 years.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen from Citigroup.
Oliver Chen:
Regarding the overall strategy and how we should think about this long term, could you speak to the dollar versus rates in the merchandise margin? What might be the catalyst for getting merchandise margin flatter at the VS division over time? Or how do you see that and how should we think that you're proceeding there strategically? Lastly, just as a follow-up. On the online side of the equation, we feel this will be very important this year for this season. From the consumer perspective, what might be different year-over-year?
Sharen Turney:
When -- as we look at the Victoria's Secret from a rate and a margin, our goal is to increase both. Obviously, we are -- we think there's opportunity in the margin rate. We think there's opportunity in terms of the top line sales, which will then obviously give you more dollars. So as we model and as we go forward, we're looking for growth in terms of our margin rate. When I think about the direct business or the online business, there is so much going on in terms of the omni channel and how we engage with the customer. And our goal is to service the customer wherever she wants to be serviced. We know she goes online to actually find out where things are, what's new, and then comes into the store. We also know that if we don't have the stock in the store that we can get it from the online business. We're very positioned in the shared categories in the online business for holiday. The big thing we keep talking about is that the apparel business has been such a big feet of that business over the years and that we're not trying to get out of it, we're just trying to contain it, therefore, investing our growth in terms of the shared categories.
Oliver Chen:
And on the rate, what are the aspects from which might be the most striking opportunities to get upside to the merch margin rate?
Sharen Turney:
Well, there's so many things that go into merchandising margin rate. And when you look at this $7 billion business and just domestically, some of it is mixed, is that your highest margin businesses are at Beauty. So some of it is in the mix. Some of it is in terms of how we're thinking about developing product from the fashion perspective. We will never sacrifice quality. We will always be a fashion business and being the first in fashion. So those are the things that we continue to think about. The thing that helps us with fashion is within our speed models. How are we testing, reading and reacting? How are we holding open to buy in some of these longer lead time businesses? And we have made great strides in being able to do that. When I look at -- something that I always look at is like how many -- the total available units for sale in a season do we take to semiannual sale. Because at Victoria's Secret, we only have 2 sales a year. We don't put out clearance goods during the year. It's only twice a year. So I think balancing the fashion and the mix, the fact that we have speed within -- in our portfolio, across all different categories, in every single categories basically on different kind of timelines. And then, most important, is that we are an emotional brand and not only having that emotional content from a product perspective but take that emotion to our sales associates and also to all of our associates in Victoria's Secret.
Amie Preston:
Nick, do you have anything you want to add about your online business?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes. Oliver, I would say, very comparable to Sharen. So kind of 3 things that will be different or built higher this year versus last year in the online channel will be our commitment to telling great stories about the new launches that we've done. Secondly, as Sharen said, the brand does have high emotional value. So we've really dialed up the emotional content. So it's a dramatically better-looking site than it was last year. And then obviously, finally, our ability to be nimble with it, and if need be, leverage it to drive traffic to the stores, if we see traffic trends challenged as we go through the season.
Operator:
The next question comes from Roxanne Meyer from UBS.
Roxanne Meyer:
On BBW, I know it's early days and only about a few weeks that you've taken some pricing in your core Signature Collection. But wondering if you can comment on customer reception to the higher prices there. And also, on the margin for BBW, it was -- merchandise margin was flat in 3Q. Wondering what your base assumption is for 4Q.
Nicholas Coe:
Roxanne, so the customer hasn't really -- she hasn't really indicated that she's noticed that the price has gone up. And I think that's a lot to do with the amount of emotion and quality that we added to the product. The thing that she's most interested in is, is she still able to participate in the day in, day out price of buy 3, get 2. That's what she focuses on when she comes in. So I think she's seeing a better-looking product. She's seeing an improved product, a better display, and then looking for kind of buy 3, get 2, et cetera, et cetera. So we haven't seen any negative impact associated with that. As it relates to margin going forward, at this point, we don't -- we're not looking or planning to see a decline in that. But obviously, it depends on how promotional is the marketplace going to be, what are the traffic trends like and what triggers, promotions might we pull in order to drive traffic to the stores. That would be the only thing that would really affect us from a margin rate perspective.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Dana Telsey from Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Can you talk a little bit about the market intensification program and the updates to that, that you're seeing in '13 and as you look out to 2014? And then lastly, on AUR improvement, is it different by -- at Victoria's Secret versus La Senza? And we know elevated AUR is a focus of BBW.
Amie Preston:
So Dana, sorry, you might not have been on the call earlier, but Sharen has already addressed the market intensification question. So we'll take your question about AUR. Sorry, do you want to repeat that for us?
Dana Telsey:
Yes, yes. On the AUR improvement, where do you see it most? Would it be at Victoria's Secret? Would be at La Senza? As we know already, BBW is seeing elevated AUR. That's one of the key focuses. So as you look at what's happening at each of the other brands, how -- when should we see it, how much should we see it, and is it by category at all that it's different?
Sharen Turney:
Dana, it's Sharen. When I think about for Victoria's Secret and -- Victoria's Secret, Victoria's Secret, PINK, Lingerie and Beauty is that we continue every year to balance the good/better/best pricing. We continue to grow the top end and reach from an AUR. We continue to grow the midsection and our opening price point. So we always, every year, look at that balance. And so that is across our Beauty category as we continue to put more emphasis on our Fine Fragrance and really dominating the Prestige fragrances market, that is at a higher AUR than what our fantasy business has been. So that kind of goes into the mix. When I think about our core category, which is bras, we actually have 4 different tiers of price point. And we constantly look at what is the credible promise of value and the relativity to the market. But we're not afraid to sell $150 bra either. So it's about that balance. It's something that we look at every -- really every year, every quarter, every day.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Susan Anderson from FBR Capital.
Susan Anderson:
So there's been quite a bit of change, I guess, in the competitive landscape if you look past the past 5 or 10 years, including like specialty guys emerging with their own formats and now also the merger of Hanes and Maidenform. So I was wondering if you could talk about how you see yourself positioning on the intimate side, say, over the next 5 years, especially as you're going after more basic, which seems to be more of a department store category?
Sharen Turney:
First of all, Susan, we are not going after more basics. We are a fashion brand. So I just wanted to make sure that we understand that. I think that when -- and we have to define basics as well because we might consider a PINK a basic bra. Most people would not do that. So we are basically having -- we're growing our fashion faster than our basic category. We will continue to do that. When I think about -- there's always competition within the lingerie market and it morphs and it changes every year. We've had specialty retailers who were retailers who got into the business, and from a competitive perspective, when I think about Hanes and Maidenform, both of those are really manufacturers. They're actually -- do not have all the store skills. They actually sell through third parties versus our own stores. Obviously, we are very appreciative of our competition and keep a close eye on what's happening. I think Maidenform is going to be the higher-end price point for Hanes. And then you also have the Triumph, who's trying to enter into the U.S. But when you look at their skill set is, it's more on the manufacturing side, of which we've been doing that for many, many years. What they don't really have is the store skills.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg from JJK Research.
Janet Kloppenburg:
Just a couple of quick questions. Sharen, I was wondering if we should expect the margin compression in the direct channel to continue given that I believe the repositioning there is not yet complete on the apparel side. And Nick, I was wondering how confident you were in your ability to continue to drive AURs higher and ADS [ph] up as we look out into fiscal '14. And lastly, for Stuart, I was wondering if you could help me with -- well, first of all, congrats on that SG&A leverage in the third quarter. And I was wondering if we could expect the same kind of leverage in the fourth quarter or because of the sales comparison, 52 to 53 weeks, if we should be expecting something more modest.
Amie Preston:
Okay, [indiscernible].
Sharen Turney:
I think there's still a little bit of compression in terms of the direct margin. It really depends. When you think about -- we are very taking a very conservative approach as we look at fourth quarter. Direct is starting get a little bit of the wind at the back right now. And it depends on how competitive that we have to get as we go into the fourth quarter. But we're well positioned. We have the inventories in control. I think that the -- we have the inventories behind the key categories that are growing. So I am a little cautiously optimistic.
Amie Preston:
Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Janet, good questions. So I think first and foremost, aspirationally, we would always want to be trying to do that. And at the same time, I want to make sure we're very balanced against customer reaction. And so one of the benefits we have of being a pretty nimble business model allows us to do an awful lot of read and reacting. At the same time, we obviously want to get payback for the investments that we put into the products. And as you see, we're continually looking to improve formula, looking to improve better quality fragrances. We recognize that we're in the package goods business. So we're also looking at how do you continue the upgrade the look of the product. So I'd say aspirationally, yes, we'd like to -- I think we want to be cautious around -- we're really watching customer reaction, and we can do that by read and react. And so overall, we'll be pretty careful as we test and move forward.
Amie Preston:
Stuart?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Yes, Janet. With respect to SG&A management and leverage, probably the first thing to say is it's a team effort. And the enterprise at large focused on doing it in a thoughtful way and in a disciplined way. We did get good leverage in the third quarter. And as I commented on in the prepared remarks, we're expecting to get leverage in the fourth quarter as well, maybe not quite to the same level on a basis point standpoint, but we would expect to get meaningful leverage in Q4 as well.
Operator:
So your final question will come from John Kernan from Cowen.
John Kernan:
Just a lot of my questions had been answered. Just a high-level question. The promotional environment, obviously, is accelerating here. What gets us out of this cycle? It seems like once it starts, it's difficult to break. And then, Stuart, on the CapEx, where do you see this going next year and over long term? I know it's increased significantly, up from $275 million in 2010. So I was just wondering when CapEx kind of levels out here.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, John. So Sharen, talk about...
Sharen Turney:
It's interesting because I think the total promotional retail environment has been going on for a while. And I think it's a good question, is that when does it end? And from a Victoria's Secret perspective is that we didn't play in the game at all last year. And how we think about it, it's about staying close to the customer, having the right product and the right fashion product, delivering in an emotional way, having the inventory available for the customer, cleaning up the floors and not having a lot of clearance on the floor and really being thoughtful in how we approach the business. And I think that's how we're going to continue to win.
Amie Preston:
Do you have any thoughts on that, Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes. John, I think very similar thoughts to Sharen. We will remain very, very focused on trying to keep the brand as relevant as we possibly can that would allow us to throw as much newness and hope that, that newness really, really cuts through. I think wherever we got -- wherever we have really, really solid product newness that cuts through with real cut-through messaging that often allows us the ability to hopefully trump the promotional activity that's taking place. So really focused on help working with the brand to get that.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
On CapEx, we'll give 2014 guidance formally in February. But what I would say, consistent with recent remarks, is that as you understand the substantial majority, about 70%, 75% of our CapEx, is going into our stores. And as we reviewed broadly during the October Analyst Day in New York, we're getting very good returns on those investments. And so as we think about it, we'll continue to invest at about this level. We monitor those investments very, very closely. We're getting great returns. And you should expect that we'll continue to invest at about this level as long as we continue to get those returns. So we feel great about those investments, and we're monitoring it closely. And we'll adjust if conditions warrant as we did back through the economic crisis in 2008 and 2009. But short is answer is it would probably be in the $700 million range. As we go forward, we'll give you an update in February.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Stuart, and thanks, everybody, for joining us today. We hope you all have a great Thanksgiving.
Operator:
Thank you, everyone. This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Sarah, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I'd like to welcome everyone to the L Brands Second Quarter 2013 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for L Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Sarah, and good morning, everyone, and welcome to Limited Brands' Second Quarter Earnings Conference Call for the period ending Saturday, August 3, 2013.
As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statement found in our SEC filings. Our second quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, limitedbrands.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. The call is being taped and can be replayed by dialing 1 (866) NEWSLTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we'll be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] All results discussed on this call are adjusted results and exclude the onetime 2012 item that is described in our press release. Thanks. And I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our second quarter comp increase of 2% was in line with our guidance, and we are pleased that we were able to deliver earnings upside through disciplined management and execution in the business, which resulted in better-than-expected results in expenses and merchandise margin. Second quarter earnings per share increased 22% to $0.61, $0.06 above the high end of our guidance. Total sales increased 5% to $2.516 billion, and comps increased 2% on top of an 8% increase last year.
Our gross margin rate declined by 10 basis points, as a slight increase in the merchandise margin rate was offset by buying and occupancy de-leverage. As we've mentioned previously, buying and occupancy expense is increasing as we invest in real estate expansion for Victoria's Secret and international. These investments continue to deliver very strong returns. We focus on expense discipline across the enterprise, and SG&A expense dollars declined slightly and leveraged by 140 basis points. Operating income dollars increased by 16%, driven by improvements in all 3 segments, and the rate increased by 130 basis points. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 8. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 6% versus last year, in line with our expectations. We're very comfortable with our inventory position. They are clean and in good shape. The increase at the end of the quarter versus our previous trend was primarily driven by the Body by Victoria bra launch, both new products and the previous products, which will be sold in the January semiannual sale. We expect inventories to continue to build through the third quarter to support significant planned launches in both Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works. We're also making targeted investments to support in-stock levels at Victoria's Secret. Inventory at the end of the third quarter is expected to be up in the high single-digit range. We do plan to end the fall season with inventories back in the mid-single-digit range. We continue to manage inventories thoughtfully and with discipline. Turning to Page 11 of the presentation. For our forecast of 2013, we expect earnings per share between $0.23 and $0.28 in the third quarter against last year's adjusted $0.26 result. A couple of things are negatively impacting our third quarter earnings by a total of about $0.02 to $0.03 per share. First, due to the calendar shift related to the 53rd week, Victoria's Secret will lose the high-volume August week 1 and gain the lower-volume November week 1. Second, La Senza is implementing new merchandise systems, the same ones we rolled out to Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works in the 2006 to 2009 time period. We are also moving La Senza's distribution center from Montreal to Columbus. These actions will put expense pressure on the business in the near term. Our third quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase, consistent with our first half trend. We expect the third quarter gross margin rate to be down to last year, driven primarily by buying and occupancy de-leverage related to our increased real estate investments. As you know, it is more difficult to leverage expenses in our lowest-volume quarter. We also anticipate a slight decline in our merchandise margin rate. We expect the third quarter SG&A rate to decrease versus last year, driven by our continued focus on expense management. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps, total sales growth on a 52-week basis will be about 2 to 3 points higher than comps, due to growth in square footage and our international business. We expect our full year gross margin and SG&A rates to be down to last year. Non-operating expenses for the year are projected between $290 million and $295 million, consisting principally of interest expense. Before any discrete items, our tax rate will be approximately 38%. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 295 million in the third quarter and the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2013 to be between $3.06 and $3.21 per share. We now expect 2013 CapEx of about $700 million. The increase in CapEx versus last year is attributable to increased real estate investment at Victoria's Secret, primarily to increase square footage for PINK. As we've previously noted, only about 20% of our current stores carry the full PINK assortment. As detailed on Page 12 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in the United States will increase by just under 4% this year, driven by expansions of the existing Victoria's Secret stores and the opening of about 50 new PINK stores. Total company square footage will increase by just under 3%. Turning to liquidity. We expect free cash flow in 2013 of about $650 million to $750 million, and we remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, result in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our second quarter results are detailed on Page 14 of the presentation material.
In the Victoria's Secret segment, our business results were in line with our expectation, as operating income increased $15 million or 6% from last year. Merchandise margin dollars and rate for the segment increased in the second quarter. We continue to manage our investment in real estate, technology and store labor that we are confident will enable future growth. In the stores channel, second quarter sales increased 6%, and comps were up 1%, on top of the 10% increase last year. Our growth in sales came from both Lingerie and PINK. While we continue to see less traffic in the quarter, we focused on providing our customers with the best experience. As a result, we had another quarter of record conversion and higher average dollar sales. Our bra launches met expectations during the quarter. Total bra sales, while up to last year, did not meet our expectations as new product introductions did not fully offset exit products from last year. As we move forward and anniversary these exits, we are confident that our current trends -- our current transaction -- traction in newness and fashion will lead us in the right direction. As mentioned earlier, both merchandise margin dollar and rate increased in the quarter, which is primarily the result of higher pricing in our semiannual sale, which is the result of entering sale with fewer units than last year. Additionally, we benefit from calendar-related shift in the second quarter. Buying and occupancy expenses increased due to our investments in real estate and de-leveraged slightly on sales. However, total expense leveraged versus last year as SG&A expenses held relatively flat to last year. The store channel saw a record operating income during the quarter, up double digit to last year. Our overall inventory is in good shape. As mentioned earlier by Stuart, we are carrying over previous Body by Victoria product that has been removed from the floor, which will result in a higher inventory position in Q3. The merchandise will be cleared during our January semiannual sale. We also continue to invest in balanced, disciplined way in more key item depth and fashion.
In the direct channel, second quarter sales decreased 6%, as a double-digit decrease in apparel sales more than offset high single-digit growth in Lingerie, PINK and Beauty. As we reminded you last quarter, we are transitioning our apparel business while, at the same time, distorting our marketing resources to the core business of the brand:
bras, panties, PINK and Beauty. We plan the apparel business to be down in Q2, with a 16% reduction in styles and a 25% reduction in inventory. Net sales results were below our expectations, down in the mid-teens. As we move into fall, our styles and inventory will be more in line with the previous year. And combined with improved assortment, we are expecting improved results.
Our direct channel second quarter merchandise margins rate was down to last year, driven by increased promotional offer. Merchandise margin dollars decreased on the combination of the sales and rate decline. Operating income dollars declined, as the decline in merchandise margin dollars more than offset a reduction in SG&A expenses. Looking ahead to the third quarter. We feel good about our fall product assortment and our upcoming bra launches. We recently launched our new Body by Victoria bras, which have been well received by our customers. In addition, we've coupled this launch with our new fragrance, Victoria. Although still early, we are encouraged by the successful starts of both. We will continue to manage both inventory and expenses with the appropriate conservatism to optimize our business. In closing, we continue to focus on providing our customers with world-class emotional brand experiences, both in-store and online, that will consistently exceed their expectations. To achieve this, we know where we need to get better and are focused on these areas. We have the right fashion and newness across our channels, and we will continue to leverage our speed and agility to drive our results. Thank you. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thank you, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we remain committed and focused on the fundamentals we do well, and that led to record sales and operating income growth in the second quarter.
Comps increased 3%, on top of 7% last year. Customers responded to newness in both form and fragrance in our 3 key categories, our Signature Collection product line, the soap and sanitizer business and our home fragrance assortments. Traffic level was down during the quarter, but we were able to improve upon our already high conversion rates while also driving higher average dollar sales. We were pleased with our decision to use July to combine newness and selected sharper price points in the highly promotional marketplace. Total sales for the quarter was $630 million, up 3% or up $21 million versus last year. For the quarter, our operating income was $102 million, up $14 million or 16% from last year. Operating income as a percentage of sales was 16% in the quarter and was up 180 basis points to last year. Gross margin rate in the quarter was about flat to last year, but SG&A expenses leveraged versus last year. The BBW Direct channel also delivered strong sales and operating income growth versus last year in the quarter. We finished the quarter with inventory levels down to last year. Looking ahead to the third quarter, we will continue to introduce newness and innovation in both form as well as fragrance. In August, the shop features our newest signature fragrances, Sweet and Sexy. We've also introduced full inspired view with our Fresh Picked collection, featuring newness in both form and fragrance across all 3 key categories. We are excited about the assortments, and we will continue to manage our expenses and our inventory conservatively. Our overall focus continues to be about getting faster and better at understanding and satisfying our customers' needs while providing them with a world-class in-store experience. In addition to focusing our products and fragrance launches, we will continue to test and read the results of new product offerings and promotional strategies while maintaining flexibility in our inventory to react quickly to our customers' preferences. Thank you. And with that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. My comments this morning will focus on an update of our international businesses. We continue to believe that our opportunity for international growth is significant, given the leadership position and awareness of our brands and the success we've seen to date.
We made a lot of progress in the second quarter, with all of our international businesses showing improvement. Growth in our international business was the primary driver of the $52 million sales growth and $20 million profit improvement in the other segments during the quarter. Starting with Victoria's Secret International, we continue to be pleased with performance of our full assortment stores. We now have 27 stores in Canada, and we'll open another 7 stores during the balance of this year. In the U.K., we continue to be very pleased with our store on Bond Street and with the London Stratford store. We opened stores in Manchester and Sheffield earlier this month with great success, and we will open in Leeds later this month. Elsewhere in the world, the 3 Victoria's Secret full assortment franchise stores in the Middle East, after our partnership with Alshaya, continue to do very well. And we're committed to open another store in Dubai this year and several more stores in the Middle East region in 2014. Our Victoria's Secret beauty and accessories business continues to progress well, and we ended the quarter with 143 stores opened, and we're on track for about 200 by the end of 2013. Importantly, the 3 VSBA stores in Hong Kong continue to trade well. In Bath & Body Works International, we are now up to 77 stores in Canada and 45 stores under our franchise partnership with Alshaya in the Middle East and Eastern Europe. We continue to be very pleased with the performance of BBW outside of the U.S.A. In the first half, we opened 6 Canadian BBW stores, and we'll open another 2 stores in the fall. In our Alshaya business, we opened 7 in the spring, and we'll another 10 to 15 during the fall. Turning now to La Senza, we continue to see signs of progress within the business. Comps in Canada increased 4% in the second quarter and 9% in July. That's the 7th consecutive month of positive comps. And our merchandise margin rate is up significantly to last year. As Stuart mentioned earlier, we are implementing new merchandise systems in the third quarter, which will benefit the business go forward. We continue to be encouraged by the repositioning work we are engaged in, creating a distinct and compelling customer proposition that is globally appealing and highly scalable around the world. Our franchise partners operate about 350 stores around the world. We still have a way to go to get the La Senza brand in an acceptable performance, but we are encouraged by recent results. So that's an update of our international businesses. As I know you know, we are not dependent on international for growth. Our overarching priority is the strength of our brands in North America. And with that, I'll say thank you and turn the discussion back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. That concludes our prepared comments for this morning. And at this time, we'd be happy to take your questions. [Operator Instructions] Sarah, I'll turn it back over to you.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from Matthew McClintock of Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
I was just wondering if we could focus a little bit on the market simplification efforts that you're doing in Victoria's Secret. It sounds like the investments that you're making in customer service are driving improved results there. And then I was wondering if you could actually talk a little bit about, I believe, the test for similar efforts in Bath & Body Works that I believe that you said you've been testing that for at least a year now and in, potentially, Chicago.
Sharen Turney:
Matthew, this is Sharen. Thank you for the question. We are very pleased with what's happening with market intensification. We are in 6 markets today, and the performance in these markets continue to be above the company average. We are very optimistic about the increases we're getting in sales, the increases that we're getting in productivity and in our customer service score and in the conversions within that -- those markets.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen. Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
We have a similar story in terms of what's going on there. We're a little bit behind, taking some of the learnings from the Victoria's Secret business. But similar results, we're pleased with not only the customer reaction but also the quality of the sales that are going through and the improved productivity. So all in all, pretty good.
Operator:
The next question comes from Barbara Wyckoff of CLSA.
Barbara Wyckoff:
I have a question for Sharen. Could you kind of recap the big bra launches last year and what your plans are to sort of offset those numbers?
Sharen Turney:
Sure. Today, in our plans, we are going to have one incremental bra launch that we had this year versus last year. Also, the bra launches that we had last fall were more about relaunching versus new introduction. We have a much bigger balance of new introductions for this fall season. Still very confident about what we've seen in our early retest and within our testing, so I'm very optimistic about those bra launches.
Operator:
The next question comes from Kimberly Greenberger, Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
My question is for Sharen on Victoria's Secret. Sharen, I'm wondering if you can talk to us about the way you're thinking about inventory management, more broadly speaking. And as you've seen challenges here in the first half of the year replacing some of the volume and exited bra styles, does that suggest, perhaps, a different inventory management strategy going forward?
Sharen Turney:
As always, Kimberly, we are really maniacally focused on our inventory and really trying to take a very conservative approach. One of the things that we're looking forward to in this fall season is how do we make sure that we are invested within the bra launches that have tested well and do we have enough inventory and can we be in stock, and I think the check mark to that is yes. I believe this year as well, we are making investments in certain key items, that we know that we have left business on the table, we have -- still have lots of open to buy. We will continue to use our speed and raw material position to help us to do that. I do not believe that the offset of the bra launches really affects the way that we control our inventory. I think that was just about exiting way too much for what we had in the pipeline.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Jennifer Black, Jennifer Black & Associates.
Jennifer Black:
I think this question is for you, Sharen. I was curious to know if you have early reads from the catalog that just dropped the fall trend edit. And about the website, the catalog, everything looks amazing. And then also it looks like you rebranded the footwear, and we are wondering if you had changed manufacturers.
Sharen Turney:
Well, today is the big day to actually get a read in terms of all of the new catalog, as well as the new website for that particular pair of catalog goes up. No, we have rebranded, we have redesigned the shoe business, but we have not changed manufacturers. We put more emphasis on quality, and so we feel good about that. But today is a big day to really -- because this officially launches today.
Jennifer Black:
Great. It looks fantastic.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you. Keeping our fingers crossed.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Janet Kloppenburg of JPMorgan (sic) [JJK Research].
Janet Kloppenburg:
I wanted to ask Sharen about the focus that's been given to PINK and the greater value message, I think, that's going out of the customer there. I wondered if you could talk about it and the strategy there, and I'm wondering if that at all could inhibit margins for that brand going forward. And also, I wanted to -- I wondered if you could comment on the performance of sport. I think it looks great, and I'm wondering if you'd consider accelerating the rollout of that product category.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Janet. Let me take the first one. PINK is really focused on a good price point in terms of our bra business. We think it's very important. It's part of our strategy as graduating that bra customer into Victoria's Secret lingerie. We continue to increase prices in our bra. And in fact, the Date Bra and now the Wear Everywhere Bra are doing very well. There's comparable pricing in the panty business. We do have a good, better, best reach strategy in the apparel business, so I think it's very well balanced. And so I think we are constantly looking at the opportunities that we have there. And there are no inhibitors in terms of the margins by our pricing strategy. We are seeing some success in sport, especially within the bra category. We are rolling the sport bra to 300 additional stores that we started basically in July and into August.
Operator:
The next question comes from Brian Tunick, JPMorgan.
Brian Tunick:
So I guess first one for Nick. Maybe outside of the big 3 categories, have you done any research or identified maybe a fourth or fifth big category that you think can drive the BBW business in the future? And then maybe Sharen can talk about the Beauty business. It's been a hot topic. Whether you want to discuss the margin impact for the first half or the product flows for the second half, but maybe just give us an idea of where you think we are in the spectrum from the Beauty business being incremental to Vicky's [ph].
Nicholas Coe:
Brian, we're always looking at and testing different ideas outside of those 3 core categories. But I think the real interesting thing for us is looking at all 3 of them, we see an awful lot of productivity gains to be gotten within them, especially when I look at the home business and some of the things that we've added in there, whether that's decorative accessories or just the continued growth of new fragrances, et cetera, that we launched within there. So I think as we continue to look for ways to elevate the brand, look for ways to reinvent the brand, I think we'll be doing it very, very focused in those 3 categories because, once again, I feel like there's awful lot of productivity gains to be gotten and still left in the 3 key ones.
Sharen Turney:
Brian, it's Sharen. In terms of the Beauty question, we still like Beauty. It's just such a natural adjacency to both the Victoria's Secret business, as well as the PINK business. And as we've gone into the fall season, really focusing on going after the Fine Fragrance business with the first Victoria launch, if you haven't seen it you should, and really has been very pleased with the response that we have gotten. As we continue to build in terms of the all-important holiday timeframe, you will see more launches this year versus last year really in -- more of an emphasis on gifting as we're going to the holiday season. And then we also came off of last year repackaging our PINK Beauty business and have seen good results from that effort as well.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Ike Boruchow of Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
I guess, Stuart, my question is on the expense line. There were several initiatives that you took during Q1 that seemed to have flowed into Q2, and expenses were managed very well. Just kind of curious how that's going to flow through the next 9 to 12 months and how we should be thinking about SG&A going forward.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Ike, for the question. We have intensified our focus on expenses. We talked about that at the beginning of the year, saw some benefit in this quarter, as we've reported, and we're going to continue to be focused on it. And with that said, we're go to do so in a balance way. The success for Limited Brands is not to be the world's best cost-cutter. It's to have good top line growth in brands with emotional comps and great service experiences for customers in stores and online. But with that said, we are managing expenses with discipline. I would expect that we'll continue to do -- have some leverage in the back half of the year. That's what's implicit in our guidance. And we'll continue to work it. But again, we'll do so in a balanced way. And it's broad based, so we're seeing that benefit across the major parts of the business and, particularly, in the home office area. So it's an important part of what we're doing. But again, the most important thing we're doing is working hard to drive top line growth and good merchandise margin rate results.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Paul Lejuez of Wells Fargo.
Paul Lejuez:
A question for Nick. BBW margins have been heading steadily higher. Just wondering what are the opportunities from here to continue to drive margins higher. Is it just productivity gains or are there opportunities on the gross margin line as well?
Nicholas Coe:
Thanks, Paul. Let's see. I think, if I could just kind of answer that slightly differently. One of the goals that we're really looking at is to continue to figure out how to really evolve the brand and figure out ways to get the right price and read the right customer expectations. So that being said, we continue to invest into the products. So a lot of the product launches that we've done have taken on incremental cost increases, but we've been in a position that we've been able to charge the appropriate price. So for me, it's going to be less about continued gross margin gains and more about are we able to continue to reinvent the brand, continue to elevate the brand, and then work closely with the customers to make sure that we're not letting retail prices get too far ahead of us, which is probably looking more at a sustained gross margin rate.
Operator:
Our next question comes from John Kernan of Cowen and Associates.
John Kernan:
The other segment had a really nice improvement year-over-year in the first half in terms of operating income. Can we expect similar improvements in the back half? Will some of the investments in La Senza systems offset that or will the continued growth in the international business help to offset some of those investments in La Senza?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
John, it's Stuart. I appreciate the question. The benefit in the second half and particularly in the third quarter relative to the other segment will not be as great as it was in the first half. And it's for the reason you mentioned, which was in our prepared remarks, about the systems project and related investments at La Senza. It also, frankly, relates to some of what we are anniversary-ing in the first half of the year. As an example, the pre-opening costs and rents related to Victoria's Secret U.K., we are anniversary-ing it now as we enter the fall. The store was opened last fall, and obviously, they are open this fall. So very good results in the first half. I shouldn't expect that level of contribution in the third quarter and the second half. With all that said, obviously, very optimistic long-term about our international business, but in terms of quarterly impact, not as significant.
Operator:
The next question comes from John Morris of BMO Capital Markets.
John Morris:
A question for Sharen and Nick, if I may, on the -- just rolling ahead and looking at holiday. You guys are very good at talking about where you see the opportunity in terms of product category versus last year. Where do you see that opportunity, if you can take a minute and just talk a little bit about that.
Sharen Turney:
When I -- let me just approach it in terms of kind of what will change. I think what we learned at Victoria's Secret from last year and really hope to not to make the same mistake is we understand the need to drive traffic in both channels, especially in the first week of December. So fashion, beauty and gifting all play a big role in that. And I feel great about what we have to offer. We'll stay focused on the fundamentals and ensuring excellent execution.
Amie Preston:
Thank you, Sharen. And Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, thank you. A couple of things. One for us is just going to be -- just based on our performance last holiday, which was strong, the big learning for us was how deep our planning went in terms of ensuring that we have various options available to us to maximize it. We're also going to look at -- knowing that it's a condensed period, we're also going to look at the real peak opportunities and how do we really maximize those peak opportunities while we know the traffic is absolutely going to be there versus one of the softer periods. We'll obviously continue to test different promotional ideas to make sure that we've got ideas on our back pocket as we go into holiday in case we need to call them. We spend a lot of time looking at gifting and trying to figure out how to continue the improvements in that business. And then at the end of the day, it'll be a lot of holiday for us will be about the right newness flowing at the right time and, again, maximizing our flexibility in terms of how we flow that newness so that we can be as close to the customer as possible.
Operator:
The next question comes from Omar Saad of ISI Group.
Omar Saad:
Wanted to see if you guys could maybe comment on your customer base, Sharen, in the Victoria's Secret franchise, older versus younger. We're hearing a lot of noise in that kind of "teen" or younger consumer space. Are you seeing something, whether it's along the lines of PINK or your younger customer in the Victoria's Secret side of business? Is there something going on with that customer maybe? Any insight you can provide there will be super helpful.
Sharen Turney:
Great, Omar. I think that when you look at Victoria's Secret and PINK, our target is the 18 collegiate customers and upwards. And I think -- so we're not so much focused on that teen customer. That's not who we target to. Because of the strengths of the PINK brand being aspirational for the teen customers, she obviously trades up into PINK. But our real focus has been in the collegiate 18 year old and up for the Victoria's Secret and PINK brands.
Omar Saad:
So you're seeing no disparity between your younger consumers and then -- and older consumers, if you will, under 18, maybe over 18?
Sharen Turney:
No, we are not.
Operator:
The next question comes from Laura Champine of Canaccord Genuity.
Laura Champine:
This is sort of a big picture question. I understand the issues with expenses for La Senza and the calendar changes, but it sounds like there's a lot for Victoria's Secret, in particular, to be excited about, and you've got great momentum coming out of Q2. Why not increase guidance for the back half today?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Laura, it's Stuart. We work hard internally. As we think about the business and run the business, we found it very important to plan our business conservatively, inventory expenses, et cetera, mindset, and then read, react and chase where there's business to be done. And that mindset, that approach, that thought process, has served us very well, and we'll continue to run the business that way. It's how we've run it the last 4 or 5 years, it's served us very well, and that's how we think about and run the business.
Operator:
The next question comes from Jeff Black of Avondale Partners.
Jeff Black:
I guess a question for Sharen. On the direct business, can you remind us when the transition will be fully made to the Supermodel Essentials versus the apparel? And then as we look ahead, also remind us what the profitability characteristics are going to be when you look at a business that has Supermodel Essentials against what was formerly a lot of apparel in the mix.
Sharen Turney:
All right. Jeff, as we reposition the apparel business, it's going to be bigger than just that lounge piece of Supermodel Essentials. So I just want to make sure that we were understanding that. I think that the transition, hopefully, as we come out through 2014, that we will be 90% through that transition. The marking characteristics are very strong in the high double-digit increases, so -- double-digit margins. So I think that we are learning a lot this fall, will teach us a lot. As I said, we're just launching some of the new catalogs as we speak. So we're being cautiously optimistic as we go forward.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Oliver Chen of Citigroup.
Nancy Hilliker:
This is Nancy Hilliker filling in for Oliver Chen. We're wondering if you have any update in terms of supply chain initiatives, if we -- if there's any more room for improvement there and potential upside for margins in the second half or into next year.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
This is Stuart. I'll speak generally about it, and Sharen and Nick may want to comment further on it. In terms of supply chain, we think about it more in terms of our sourcing and how we flow goods and read and react to it. We've been talking about the initiatives around speed in our business for the last several years, and that continues to be one of the most critical things that we focus on as it relates to how we work with our suppliers and flow goods. And we've made a lot of progress in that area, and we're continuing to do work there. We're doing more work in the beauty product as it relates to personal care and beauty. Again, Sharen, Nick, may want to comment on it further. But we made good progress on speed and furthering our relationships with key sourcing partners, but there's more to do that, again, Sharen and Nick may want to comment on.
Sharen Turney:
Nancy, I would just review it right to what Stuart said. We have great partnerships we always are looking to get better and better, and we have not unlocked all of our potential. I think that we have baked in upside -- we've already baked in what we -- in our margins, I think there's even more upside in margins as we go forward. I think we've already baked that in for the '12 season.
Nicholas Coe:
Nancy, it's Nick. I think we pretty much got speed and, therefore, read and react in our ability to stay close to the customer pre-embedded into the business now to almost as a standard. And I would agree with Sharen, it's pretty baked in.
Operator:
The next question comes from Lorraine Hutchinson of Bank of America Merrill Lynch.
Lorraine Maikis:
It looks like you took the CapEx guidance up by about $50 million, so I was just curious what that related to, and then you also maintained your free cash flow guidance, so what the offset was there.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Sure. Thanks, Lorraine. The increase in CapEx versus the prior forecast relates to real estate and specifically, Victoria's Secret real estate. One aspect of it is some additional CapEx that will be on '13 books but relates to 2014 projects. The effect of that is greater this year than it normally is, but fundamentally, it's about real estate in Victoria's Secret. And again, we remain very bullish about those projects and the sales results we're getting and the profit results we're getting and the returns that we've generated for shareholders. So just some movement there. With respect to the free cash flow forecast, as you would imagine, there's a wide range of inputs there in terms of all the components of that and, again, remain comfortable with the broad range that we've given. As you appreciate, a lot of our cash is generated in the fourth quarter. And so there's a lot of moving parts there. But again, the business has very strong free cash flow properties, and there's a reasonable range of outcome there, but it will be a strong year for cash flow.
Operator:
The next question comes from Jennifer Davis of Lazard Capital.
Jennifer Davis:
A couple of clarifications on earlier questions. First, Sharen, on the bra launches, are there -- on the new introductions, are there any new technologies coming out? And Nick, on the market intensification efforts, are you only in Chicago right now? And then just a general question on Henri Bendel. I know it's a very small piece, just wondering for an update there.
Sharen Turney:
Yes, there are new technology launches in the fall season for Victoria's Secret.
Nicholas Coe:
Yes, we are still in Chicago. But please remember, we're a year or so behind Victoria's Secret and taking on the initiative, so we're continuing to see a nice productivity there and continuing to invest in that marketplace.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
And Bendel -- it's Stuart. We're obviously optimistic about that category. We added a number of stores to the business over the last few years. We've got a team there that is working hard to drive growth in sales and margin and so on, we're making progress, and we think it's a great category. And we're seeing progress in the business this spring and optimistic that, that business will deliver further sales growth and margin improvement in the fall.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group.
Dana Telsey:
Bath & Body Works had terrific improvements in the operating margin. And certainly, some of the new product initiatives seem to be working very well. What is the potential for the long-term operating margin at BBW? And how do you see pricing and product newness evolving there?
Nicholas Coe:
Well, thanks for the compliments. In terms of long term, what do we see? Our goal will be to -- we're seeing very, very nice traction in terms of our ability to charge the right price for the customer, where we've elevated the brand, she's got into more prestigious products, more trade-up products. It's really allowing us to maintain that margin position. So again, as I mentioned earlier, we'll continue to look at improving the products. That's, in some cases, taking costs up. I think the bigger opportunity for us is to really say what's the sales growth opportunity more than the margin rate or margin growth opportunity as the brand moves forward.
Operator:
Your next question comes from Marni Shapiro of Retail Tracker.
Marni Shapiro:
Stuart, I actually have a bigger picture question here. Victoria's Secret, obviously, is a huge brand, a big brand in direct business. You have a solid business there, away from some ups and downs in apparel. At what point should we be thinking about, or -- either an investment or will you guys start to seriously think about omni channel or even a situation where returns aren't getting mailed back to the DC? And I'm curious if you guys have the systems in the DC to support this kind of shift or is this something that would have to be a multiyear investment in technology and your distribution system?
Sharen Turney:
Marni, I'm going to take that question for Stuart. This is Sharen. We have had what we have called omni channel, really, in our sights and have been working on it and investing in it for the last 2 years. We are so encouraged. Well, we call it, give her what she wants. So now we have the systems in the stores to take the direct channel return. We also have the systems in the DC to take those returns. It is working very well for us. The customers have been very excited about the customer service that we have been able to provide. What it's been allowing us to do now are people that haven't bought from direct before because if you're out of stock in something in the store, you can buy from direct, and we'll have it there the next day. And now what we're seeing is moving more customers slightly to being dual-channel customers, which we now have dual-channel customers spend more with us. But it's really about the customer service model that Victoria's Secret is after is making sure that we're servicing every single customer.
Marni Shapiro:
Are you able to take advantage of it from an inventory perspective, if somebody comes into a store or goes online, to ship it from -- if somebody returns something to a store that is not a store item, rather than ship it back to the DC, can you then reship it out to a customer who ordered it online? Or are you still shipping inventory back to the DC and then repurposing it and then sending it out?
Sharen Turney:
We're shipping it back to the DC.
Marni Shapiro:
My question is, at what point will you start to think seriously about moving off of that model because there's a lot of cost savings and inventory implications that comes along with that. And so I'm curious, at what point -- do you have the systems to move off of that model to the next step? And are you thinking about doing that anytime soon or is this a big investment and a big multiyear project on top of what you've already done?
Sharen Turney:
Yes, we probably -- if we wanted to ship from the stores today that one particular item, we could. It's a little bit more complicated than that, Marni, in terms of most of the orders and people that are coming in from the DC are really looking at multi-category. We do have the capability, it's just not something that we're turning on at this point, but we're always curious to learn about it.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
One other thing I would add quickly -- it's Stuart -- is the number one thing that our store associates are focused on is selling to customers that are there. And to the extent that we start doing some things that other retailers are doing, you to start turning your stores into little mini DCs. And at the end of the day, we're focused on selling in our stores.
Operator:
The next question comes from Richard Jaffe of Stifel, Nicolaus.
Richard Jaffe:
Just a question on merchandise margins. In both divisions, seeing that, albeit very modest pressure on margins, I'm wondering if there's an opportunity on the flip side, with the introduction of beauty, with better sourcing, with mix changes, you see merchandise margin improvement in the balance of this year and into 2014.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Richard, it's Stuart. The guidance that we've given is in the third quarter down slightly, and we've been down slightly. The business is always working to get it to the right merchandise margin rate. And we think the guidance is about right. And to your point, there are a lot of pluses and minuses, and believe me, we're, first and foremost, focused on dollars. We've all heard the expression, you don't take rate home to the bank, and things like more work on full-price selling and speed and so on. But we think the guidance for the remainder of the year is about right, and you can be sure that the business is going to be focused on getting the maximum number of dollars that they can get, and part of driving that can be opportunity to earn rate. But we think the guidance is about right.
Richard Jaffe:
Just a follow-up question about the Victoria's Secret direct business and its shift away from apparel, I'm wondering at what point do we see a new equilibrium established.
Sharen Turney:
I think we're starting to see it but as I said earlier, we're really looking at 2014.
Richard Jaffe:
And what would that balance be?
Sharen Turney:
The balance should be, as we enter into the 2014, the core businesses of the shared businesses will be about 75%, and the remaining will be in the apparel category.
Operator:
The last question comes from Susan Anderson of FBR.
Susan Anderson:
I was wondering if maybe you can give us an update on the swim business and how that performed this summer, and then also if you can provide some color on the sports business and trends you're seeing there.
Sharen Turney:
Sure, Susan. This is Sharen. We were very pleased with our swim business. So we will have about a $450 million swim business this year. We still see growth opportunity. We're still not in 1,000 stores. It is still a big category for direct and has much more opportunity, and it's a natural adjacency to our apparel business. The sport category still has a lot of upside potential. I think the one thing there in the sport category is just making sure that we can get the real estate in the right -- in the right real estate as we go forward, and that is something that we're working through year after year because the first priority is to make sure we have the right space for the Victoria's Secret lingerie and PINK and then sports.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Sharen, and thanks, Nick [ph]. And thanks, everyone, for joining us today and for your interest in Limited Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.
Operator:
Good morning. My name is Laurel, and I will be your conference operator today. At this time, I would like to welcome everyone to the Limited Brands First Quarter 2013 Earnings Call. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Ms. Amie Preston, Chief Investor Relations Officer for Limited Brands. Please go ahead.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Laurel, and good morning, everyone, and welcome to our first quarter earnings conference call for the period ending Saturday, May 4, 2013. As a matter of formality, I need to remind you that any forward-looking statements we may make today are subject to our Safe Harbor statement found in our SEC filings.
Our first quarter earnings release and related financial information are available on our website, limitedbrands.com. Also available on our website is an investor presentation, which we will be referring to during this call. The call is being taped and can be replayed by dialing (1) 866-NEWSLTD. You can also listen to an audio replay from our website. Stuart Burgdoerfer, EVP and CFO; Sharen Turney, CEO, Victoria's Secret; Nick Coe, CEO, Bath & Body Works; and Martin Waters, President of International, are all joining us today. After our prepared comments, we will be available to take your questions for as long as time permits. [Operator Instructions] Thanks. And now I'll turn the call over to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Thanks, Amie, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter results were good in many respects. Earnings per share increased 17% to a record $0.48. Total sales increased 5%, and comps increased 3% on top of a 7% increase last year, and inventories were well managed.
Operating income improved significantly at Bath & Body Works and in the other segment, but declined at Victoria's Secret. Total operating income dollars increased 6%, a result we're not satisfied with. First quarter traffic trends were challenging, and we responded with incremental promotions to drive traffic. Our first quarter comp increase of 3% was in line with our guidance. And our merchandise margin rate was down in the quarter, below plan. The merchandise margin rate decline was offset by SG&A leverage of 50 basis points. We took action in the first quarter to reduce home office overhead and incurred severance costs related to these reductions. And while these actions did not benefit the first quarter, we will see SG&A expense reductions as a result go forward. We delivered earnings per share $0.03 above the high end of our guidance despite the negative impact of about $0.03 from severance costs and a higher tax rate, which were not included in our guidance. Turning to the balance sheet on Page 6. Retail inventories per square foot at cost ended the quarter up 3% versus last year. We're very comfortable with our inventory position. They are clean and in good shape. We repurchased 1.2 million shares of stock in the first quarter for $54.7 million. At quarter end, we had $184.2 million remaining under our current $250 million repurchase program. Turning to Page 8 of the presentation for our forecast for 2013. We expect earnings per share between $0.50 and $0.55 in the second quarter against last year's adjusted $0.50 result. Our second quarter earnings forecast reflects a low single-digit comp increase. We expect the second quarter gross margin rate to be down to last year, driven by continued anticipated pressure on our merchandise margin rate. We expect the second quarter SG&A rate to decrease versus last year, driven by our continued focus on expense management. We expect to end the second quarter with inventory per square foot up mid-single digits to last year. Quarter end inventories will be impacted by the calendar shift and relaunches planned in both Victoria's Secret and Bath & Body Works. As a reminder, our third quarter is our lowest volume quarter. And therefore, it will be more challenging to leverage expenses and grow earnings in Q3. For the full year, we are projecting positive low single-digit comps. Total sales growth on a 52 to 52-week basis will be about 2 points higher than comps, due to growth in square footage and our International business. We expect our full year gross margin and SG&A rates to be down slightly to last year. Non-operating expenses for the year are projected between $285 million and $290 million, consisting principally of interest expense. Before any discrete items, our tax rate will be approximately 38%. We are forecasting weighted average shares of about 295 million in the second quarter and the full year. Assuming all of these inputs, we expect adjusted earnings per share for the full year 2013 to be between $2.95 and $3.15 per share. We are projecting 2013 capital spending of about $650 million. The increase in CapEx versus last year is attributable to increased real estate investment at Victoria's Secret, primarily to increase square footage for PINK and lingerie. As detailed on Page 9 of the presentation, Victoria's Secret square footage in the United States will increase by just under 4% this year, driven by expansions of existing Victoria's Secret stores and the opening of about 50 new PINK Stores. Total company square footage will increase by just under 3%. This activity will put more pressure on buying and occupancy expense in the near term, including noncash charges for accelerated depreciation on stores that are remodeled before the end of their lease term. But as we shared at the Update Meeting in October, these projects are generating returns in excess of 30%. We will continue to closely monitor the results of this activity. Turning to liquidity. We expect free cash flow in 2013 of about $650 million to $750 million. We remain committed to returning excess cash to shareholders through a combination of share repurchases and dividends. Our free cash flow and cash position, along with the additional availability under our revolving credit facility, result in very strong liquidity, which is more than sufficient to fund our working capital, capital expenditures, dividends and any other foreseeable needs. Thanks. And now I'll turn the discussion over to Sharen.
Sharen Turney:
Thank you, Stuart, and good morning, everyone. Our first quarter results are detailed on Page 11 of your presentation material.
In the Victoria's Secret segment, our result did not meet our expectation, as operating income declined $18 million or 7% from last year. Nearly half of this decline was driven by calendar shift related to a marketing campaign. We made investments in real estate, technology and store label to enable future growth with the knowledge that it would make it more challenging to increase profitability in the quarter. In addition, we experienced softer than expected top line growth, as well as lower merchandise margin rate as a result of increased promotional activity. These were the primary drivers to our miss in operating income expectation in both channels. In the stores channel, first quarter sales increased 5% and comps were up 3% on top of the 9% increase last year. Our growth in sales came from both PINK and Beauty, and we continue to have record conversion rate. While the total bra business was up to last year, it did miss our expectation as a result of softer than expected launch. Our merchandise margin dollars increased. However, the margin rate declined as a result of 3 drivers. First, we increased promotional activity in response to weak mall traffic. Second, we continued to see strong customer response to marketing programs, including GWPs, direct mail and Secret Rewards. Lastly, due to the calendar shift from the 53rd week, there were marketing related impact merchandise margin that fell into the first quarter versus the second quarter last year. Operating income dollars decreased, as higher merchandise margin dollars were more than offset by growth in buying and occupancy and SG&A expenses, driven by our investment in real estate and the in-store experience. These were deliberate investments, and we are confident that will provide strong returns in the future.
In the direct channel, first quarter sales decreased 6%, as decreased apparel sales offset strong growth in lingerie and PINK. As you know, we are transitioning our apparel business, while at the same time, distorting our marketing resources to the core business of the brand:
bras, panties, PINK and Beauty. We plan the apparel business to be down this season. With a 30% reduction in styles and a 25% reduction in inventory, these results were below our expectations, down roughly 20%.
In hindsight, we believe we went too far too fast. As we go forward, we will work to get the right combination of assortment, stock count and inventory that our customers want and expect from Victoria's Secret. Our direct channel's first quarter merchandise margin rate was about flat to last year. However, merchandise margin dollars decreased on the sales decline. Operating income dollar declined as the decline in merchandise margin dollars more than offset our reduction in expenses. Looking ahead to the second quarter, we are excited about our assortment and are also excited about our real estate and technology investments. We have the right fashion and units across our channels, and we will continue to focus on servicing our customers. We will continue to achieve the right promotional balance between driving traffic into our stores and maintaining the integrity of our brand, while leveraging speed and agility to adjust our assortments. Our inventories are well positioned, which allows us to optimize our business. We are confident in our upcoming bra launches, which have tested well. Our semiannual sale begins in June. In closing, we know where we need to get better and are focused on improving our results in the second quarter. Thanks. And now I'll turn it over to Nick.
Nicholas Coe:
Thank you, Sharen, and good morning, everyone. At Bath & Body Works, we delivered sales and operating income growth versus last year's record performance in the first quarter. Comps increased 3% against 6% last year. After a softer start in the February, we were able to achieve a full comp during the March and April time periods.
Customers responded to newness in both form of fragrance in our 3 key categories; our Signature Collection product line; the soap and sanitizer business; and our home fragrance assortments. Total sales for the quarter were $530 million, up 5% or $25 million versus last year. The difference between the comp increase and the total sales increase was strong sales performance in the BBW Direct channel. For the first quarter, our operating income was $73 million, up $12 million or 21% from last year. Operating income, as a percentage of sales, was 14% in the quarter and was up 180 basis points to last year. Gross margin rate in the quarter was about flat to last year. SG&A expenses leveraged versus last year. The BBW Direct channel also delivered operating income growth versus last year in the quarter. We finished the quarter with inventory levels down to last year. Looking ahead to the second quarter, we will continue to introduce newness and innovation in both form and in fragrance. This month, we transitioned from our Bella Italy theme into our newest Signature Collection fragrance, Pure Paradise, which is available in all forms. We're excited about the assortment, and we will continue to manage expenses and inventory conservatively. Our overall focus continues to be about getting faster than better at understanding and satisfying our customers' needs, whilst providing them with a world-class in-store experience. In addition to focusing on products and fragrance launches, we will continue to test and read results of new products offerings and promotional strategies, while maintaining flexibility in our inventory to read quickly to our customers' preferences. With that, I'll turn the discussion over to Martin Waters.
Martin Waters:
Thanks, Nick, and good morning, everyone. My comments this morning will focus on an update of our international businesses. We believe our opportunity for international growth is significant, given the leadership position and awareness of our brands and the successes we've seen to date. We made a lot of progress in the first quarter, with all of our international businesses showing improvement.
At Victoria's Secret International, we continued to be pleased with the performance of our full assortment stores. We now have 26 stores in Canada, and we'll open another 8 stores during the balance of this year. In the U.K., we continue to be very pleased with our store on Bond Street, London and with the London Stratford store. We are on track to open stores in Manchester, Leeds and Sheffield this summer. Elsewhere in the world, the 3 Victoria's Secret full assortment franchise stores in the Middle East, under our partnership with Alshaya, continue to do very well. And we have committed to open another 1 or 2 stores this year and several more in 2014. Our Victoria's Secret Beauty and Accessories business continues to progress well, and we ended the quarter with 126 stores open and are on track for nearly 200 stores by the end of 2013. We opened our first 2 Victoria's Secret Beauty and accessory stores in Hong Kong this past month, and we are very pleased with early results. In Bath and Body Works International, we are now up to 72 stores in Canada and 43 stores under our franchise partnership with Alshaya. We continue to be very pleased with the performance of BBW outside of the USA. And in 2013, we'll open another 7 stores in Canada and another 15 or so stores with Alshaya. Turning now to La Senza. We continue to see some signs of progress within the business. Comps in Canada increased 5% in the first quarter and our merchandise margin rate was up significantly to last year. We continue to be encouraged by the repositioning work we're engaged in, creating a distinct and compelling customer proposition that is globally appealing and highly scalable around the world. Our franchise partners will open another 10 to 20 net stores in 2013, which will put us at over 350 stores by the end of the year. We still have a way to go to get La Senza to an acceptable performance, but we are encouraged by recent results. So that's an update on international. As I know you know, we're not dependent on international for growth. Our overarching priority is the strength of our brands in North America. And with that, I'll say thank you and turn it back over to Amie.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, Martin. At this time, we are ready to take your questions. We do have a shorter amount of time on this call this morning due to our annual meeting, which was this morning. So please limit yourself to one question in consideration of others. Thanks, and I'll turn it over to Laurel.
Operator:
[Operator Instructions] Your first question comes from the line of Kimberly Greenberger with Morgan Stanley.
Kimberly Greenberger:
Amie, my question is for Sharen of Victoria's Secret. Sharen, I'm wondering if you could just help us understand your outlook in the bra category. I know that the business didn't perform to your expectations here in Q1. What sort of launches do you have coming in the pipeline? You said that you're encouraged by what we've got coming. And is 2Q a big quarter for the bra category or does it sort of accelerate in 3Q and 4Q, if you could just help us with that.
Sharen Turney:
Sure, Kimberly. Let me just kind of set some context about the bra business. Our bra business in the first quarter was up 4%. We exited about 1 million units that we sold last year that were not in the assortments this year. Performance of those bras started decreasing significantly in Q2 last year. So exiting them was right thing to do. We launched an Angel Fantasies bra, and we're able to off some of that volume, but not all. We were also growing up our largest launch ever of Very Sexy last year. And we have high expectation this year for our Multi-Way category. We did get double-digit results, but it did fall slightly short of our expectation. So when you add all of that up and we were able to run -- we were still able to run at 4%, I'm very optimistic. We continue to have balance growth across good/better/best. Good is growing a little faster because of the fashion in the mix-and-match program and in the PINK layering [ph] involved. But again, we are seeing growth across the good/better/best category. I feel good about Q2. Q2, we do not have a real media launch -- that means putting TV behind it -- nor have we had in the past. We have already landed the launch bra for the second quarter. It is a smaller launch quarter than the first quarter. Our biggest launch quarter comes up in the third quarter or early this year because of the shift in calendar will be starting in the last week of July.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Omar Saad with ISI Group.
Vickram Mohan:
This is Vick in for Omar. Could you give us some more color on how the Hong Kong stores are doing and what you think the longer-term opportunity is in this market?
Amie Preston:
We'll go to Martin for that question.
Martin Waters:
Sure. Yes, we opened 2 stores in Hong Kong in the last month, one in the IFC center, which is the most fashionable center in the whole of Hong Kong, and the second in New Town Plaza in the new territories, which is more representative of more mainstream Hong Kong. Both are great centers for Chinese tourists. So we feel that we're exposing the VSBA proposition to a significant number of tourists from all over the world, but also most importantly, from Mainland Chinese tourists. Early results are really very encouraging. And we'll open a third store within the next month or so. And we're looking to open more stores in the balance of '13 and '14.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Ike Boruchow with Sterne Agee.
Irwin Boruchow:
Sharen, I know the PINK business has been a phenomenal growth engine in the past few years. Can you maybe talk about the performance of PINK in Q1 and how do you see that concept's growth trajectory going forward? And also, how you kind of view that concept internationally, if that can be an opportunity? And then, secondly, can you talk about the Beauty business and maybe how you're thinking about that business as you start to get Suzy's revamp the assortment in the stores in time for holiday this year?
Sharen Turney:
Sure. The PINK had a strong Q1. Both the bras and panties were very strong in PINK. We had a little miss in apparel basically in the licensed apparel business. We feel very strong about our PINK going forward. We continue to see momentum. We continue to believe that we can double that business as we go forward. We are expanding the real estate in PINK. We are actually opening up about 50 new free-standing PINK Stores and then we're also expanding the PINK real estate. And when we do that, we see very high productivity in those stores. And then when we pull PINK out of the Victoria's Secret stores, the Victoria's Secret store actually even gets more powerful. So 1 plus 1 is equaling 3 in these centers where we're doing that. So we feel very strong about the opportunity that we have. The other thing that makes me very confident about PINK is that PINK is a very balanced business. It has a lingerie component of it, which is about 45%. It's about 10% accessories, and then the rest is in the apparel category. But it's not just in the fleece category of apparel. It's in the yoga category. So it has a broader assortment. So it's a very balanced business not weighted heavily to one category or not. We, as you know, we do have some free-standing PINK stores in Canada that we're pleased with the results. So I do believe that we have opportunity to continue the momentum of PINK, to continue the brand recognition that we have. And we're very excited about the positioning as we go forward. When I think about the Beauty business and as Suzy is new, I think we're making great progress. We saw the Beauty business get stronger in the first quarter. I think when you're really going to see the effects of the Beauty business as we go into the fall season. Our focus is primarily around our 5 fragrance business and how we are repositioning that. I feel probably stronger about the new launch of fragrance that we have in August, which is a perfect fragrance for back-to-school. So we're excited about the opportunities that we have there. As we've expanded into our new real estate, we actually have not grown the real estate as much in Beauty as we have in some of the other categories. But the productivity growth that we see and the opportunities that we see are terrific. As you see, the strength of the Beauty business is being able to export it into the international land with the VSBA shows you the strength and the power of this Beauty business.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Erika Maschmeyer with Robert W. Baird.
Erika Maschmeyer:
Could you walk us through and provide some additional detail around the cost cuts you made and severance, where things were trimmed? And do you see additional opportunity to make cuts as you go throughout the year if the top line is disappointing?
Amie Preston:
We'll go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
So with respect to the management of expenses and actions that we took in the quarter, the first theme or the maybe the most important point that I would reiterate, which we've been clear about for a long time, is that the company is very committed to growing expenses lower than the sales. So it's just a very firm commitment. It's hard to improve your operating income rate, and we believe we'll have significant opportunity to do that without managing expenses growing at a rate slower than sales. So that's potentially the most important point. With respect to the actions that we talked about and took in the first quarter. Contextually, not as significant as the actions that we took in the summer of '07 or in January of '09. But with that said, we did reduce home office overhead, and that involved personnel expenses and other outside spending. We didn't get a lot of benefit from that in the first quarter because we took the action in the first quarter. We'll get benefit through the remainder of the year, as I indicated in our prepared remarks. And that benefit is included in the updated guidance that we provided, and it's really just another lever, if you will, to make sure that we deliver on that guidance. So hopefully, that answers your question. And obviously, as we go through the year, we work hard to manage our near-term variable expenses in line with sales, the most significant of which is store payroll, obviously. You know we are investing in that to make sure that we provide great customer experiences. But with that said, our brands, Bath & Body Works and Victoria's Secret, work very hard to flex store selling cost in relation to the current selling trend.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Matt McClintock with Barclays.
Matthew McClintock:
Stuart, I was hoping you could actually elaborate on the last comment that you just made in particular, on the investment that you're making in store selling within Victoria's Secret specifically. Could you perhaps just add some color on the overall trend for the returns that you're seeing on those investments? Are those returns stable? Are they declining? Or are they actually increasing?
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
Well, the most important investment, and I think you're referring more to store payroll, but the most important investment that we're making in Victoria's Secret relates to the real estate. And we have talked about the returns related to that investment. Again, 30% non-layer [ph] on average. And we've also talked about the P&L pressure that, that puts on the business in the near term. But again, believe that those investments are very good investments. With respect to store selling costs, the business has been working in meaningful ways over the last several years to improve the selling experience. And with that, investing in those costs. Sharen may want to elaborate. But the business continues to focus on that opportunity, which we believe is an important lever in driving sales. And so we're going to continue to invest in those costs. We also think we'll be able to continue to get more productivity related to those investments as we move forward. Sharen, you may want to elaborate?
Sharen Turney:
No, I think that we want to have the best selling service model that we can and giving -- and really making sure that we have outstanding customer service. I think one of the key measures that you can look that as well is that just looking at our consistent improvement in conversion that we're getting. Obviously, part of that is the product. But as well, it's really thinking differently about how we're using our selling staff. I think it's a big part of our future.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Jennifer Davis with Lazard Capital Markets.
Jennifer Davis:
A quick kind of calendar question, I guess. We're hearing different things from different retailers about the calendar shift and the impacts between the quarters. So could you kind of talk about or compare the volumes of the impacts of those weeks in early May, August and November? And then, related to that, is there any shift in the timing of the semiannual sales due to the calendar? And are the number of days of the semiannual sales at both divisions the same this year?
Amie Preston:
So we'll start with Stuart for calendar shift in general, and then we'll go to Sharen and Nick for the question about semiannual sale.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
With respect to calendar shifts, really, the 2 clearest points that I would want to make are, and Sharen elaborated on this in her prepared remarks, is that Q1 operating income was hurt by the timing of the CRM campaign for Victoria's Secret. And that had an impact, a negative impact on margin rate and a negative impact on expenses in Q1. So that's clear and a definite effect of calendar shift. As we look at weeks in versus weeks out, we do have different outcomes by business, meaning the major businesses, Victoria's Secret stores, Bath & Body Works and importantly, Victoria's Secret Direct. And the headline that I would put on that is that the effect of calendar shifts for the company in total through the balance of the year, at the end of the day, is not material. Now there are some differences in weeks. So in Q2, for example, the week that comes in for Victoria's Secret, August, week 1, is greater in volume than the week that comes out. But again, when it all washes out and we have a schedule in front of me that I'm looking out. When I look at all of that and I think, importantly, just for our investor community, the effects aren't that significant on operating income for the balance of the year. So that's really the second point that I would register. And then, Sharen and Nick you may want to comment on semiannual sales.
Sharen Turney:
Sure. Semiannual sale on the store side is the equal start and the equal amount of days this year versus last year. On the Direct side, we are extending it 3 days because it was going to end -- it was going to end right before fourth of July. And we said, you know what, fourth of July is a promotional weekend. Let's it through the fourth of July and end it after the fourth of July. So basically, it's the same amount of days except for that extension over the fourth of July for Direct.
Nicholas Coe:
Hey, Jennifer, it's Nick. Yes, so we will be the same, fundamentally, the same timing and the same number of days for the June sale. The only difference we're thinking this time is to maybe keep a small portion of-- or at least provide the flexibility to extend potentially as we go into July, which is really about recognizing just how promotional the marketplaces is. As we go into July, we're still in the height of summer, still very promotional. So we've set ourselves up with the flexibly to be able to leverage that if we need to.
Operator:
The next question comes from the line of John Kernan with Cowen and Company.
Jerry Gray:
This is Jerry on for John. You guys had a pretty significant improvement in the operating income in your other business. I was wondering if you could give us some color on what drove that and kind of walk us through how we should plan the profitability of the other segment over the next few years.
Amie Preston:
Sure. We'll go to Stuart.
Stuart Burgdoerfer:
There are a lot of components in that other segment. What -- the key driver of improvement in the first quarter was the level of expenses we had 1 year ago related to pre-opening costs related to international expansion. With that said, we did also have broad-based improvement in operating results in the international business and had more profit related to mass global sourcing in the other segment as well in Q1. So maybe 3 points to make. First is not incurring pre-opening costs at the same level as we did a year ago. Second point, improvement, operating improvement across the international businesses. And third point, greater profit in the other segment related to sourcing year-on-year. As it relates to the balance of the year, we would expect to have continued improvement in the other segment. But as we see it today, anyway, and there a lot of moving parts, as we see it today, probably not at the same level that we experienced in Q1.
Operator:
And your next question comes from the line of Oliver Chen with Citigroup.
Nancy Hilliker:
This is Nancy filling in for Oliver Chen. My question is, could you tell us a little bit more about the drivers of better merchandise margin going forward and perhaps whether what your views on the state of the consumer at this point and whether that drove the promotional activity in 1Q?
Amie Preston:
We'll go to both Nick and Sharen for that question.
Nicholas Coe:
So I think the thing that was in our favor this year was where we had to be more promotional to combat traffic, we were able to do that in really, margin-rich product areas that really helped keep our margin in place. I think the bigger aspect for us is we're always going to be focused on first quality selling and trying to react as quickly as we can with our read and react model into things that are working to get the full price selling rather than focused on where are we going to be cost or margin-wise. And that's continued to prove to us to be one way of ensuring we keep our margins in a healthy place, as well as our first quality selling in a healthy place.
Sharen Turney:
As I think about the business going forward, I do think that we will see some -- with moderate and see some -- a little improvement in our margin rate. I think the environment remains uncertain. So what we were going to do is remain focused on what we can control. We'll maintain maximum agility to chase what's working and manage any downturn as a result of the macroeconomic environment. I think as we go into second quarter, we're very well positioned with our marketing activities, with our assortment changes that we've made. So I feel cautiously optimistic.
Operator:
Your next question comes from the line of Brian Tunick with JPMorgan Securities.
Brian Tunick:
I guess, for Stuart and Sharen, maybe a little more on that lead time discussion. I know it's been a big focus for the company. So maybe can you talk about how it actually worked in reality over the past few months at Victoria's Secret as sales have come in a little softer? How has shortening the lead time cycle helped you guys? And then the second question on market intensification you guys have talked about before. Any update here on how many markets you're already in with that program and how that's changed your view relative to sales per square foot opportunities?
Amie Preston:
We'll start with Sharen. And then I think, maybe Nick can also speak about our lead times.
Sharen Turney:
We've shortened our lead times across every single category. And there is -- we have the ability in our panty programs to be able to talk about it on Monday nights and within 15 days have reorders in. The same within our bra categories, it's about 30 days in terms of reacting to the bras. We continue to think differently about how we use our speed models. It's a great testing vehicle for color. I think that we continue to maximize our ability to read, react and chase. And it influenced about 33% of our business in the first quarter.
Amie Preston:
And then market intensification?
Sharen Turney:
So market intensification today, we are very pleased with what's happening in the market intensification. We actually are in 4 major markets today, expanding to the fifth market as we go into our second quarter, which is Los Angeles. We see that the performance in all of these markets continue to be above the company average. The only market that came out a little bit softer for us was in the New York, New Jersey, and there's a lot of moving pieces and targets about what happened in New York and New Jersey, but still above the company average. The learns we're taking across the fleet as quick as we can. The testing that we're doing around our selling models are proving to pay out. It takes time. So we are very optimistic about the increases we're getting in sales, the increases that we're getting in productivity, the increases that we're getting in our customer services board, the increase that were getting in conversion within these markets.
Amie Preston:
And Nick?
Nicholas Coe:
So let me elaborate on lead time a little bit. So I think if I break it into a couple of chunks, I think the first place is, obviously, this is allowing us to make significantly later decisions, and therefore, we're that much closer to market. So clearly, a benefit there. That then leaves us in a position to have a significantly more flexible open-to-buy so we're able to choose where we want to make our investments that much closer. The beauty really for us is then the ability to watch the customer and see what she is responding to or not responding to, and therefore, manage our inventories to be in line with that, which obviously, then has great knock-on effect that allows us to really push in towards a higher mix of full-price items. And therefore, our margin -- our ability to maintain margin remains pretty much intact.
Amie Preston:
I think we've got time for one more question. I apologize. I know we're not going to get to many of you, but we have a board meeting that we have to get to. So one last question.
Operator:
Your last question comes from the line of Christian Buss from Crédit Suisse.
Darla Shay:
This is actually Darla Shay on for Christian. Can you talk a little bit about what you're seeing from the ramping of the U.K. Victoria's Secret stores? How is the brand being received there? And then what you've learned, thus far, that you can apply to the openings later this year?
Amie Preston:
Martin?
Martin Waters:
Sure, yes, we've learned an enormous amount in the last 10 months or so in the U.K. Recall that the 2 stores we've had in the U.K. are quite different. So the Bond Street store is a very large full assortment store, primarily driven by traffic from all over the world. An enormous amount of business in that store is tourist driven. Really it's a great flagship for the brand internationally. And then quite separate from that, the store at Stratford is more representative of what we would see rolling across the U.K. and other parts of the world. And that model is much closer to a typical mall format that you might see in North America. In terms of the performance that we see, substantially, similar to business performance in North America, in the U.S. and Canada. And while there are some differences in terms of size and color and fashion choices, for the most part it's a substantially similar result to that, that we see the U.S., which of course, is very helpful when looking to scale the brand. So I think what you'd expect to see in the next 3 stores that open are something very substantially similar to what you see in the Stratford store right now, and we're excited to share the results later this year.
Amie Preston:
Thanks, everyone for your continuing interest in Limited Brands.
Operator:
This concludes today's conference call. You may now disconnect.